Alright lads, I installed a hi-vis front sight to my mk iv and its come a bit loose everytime I shoot it. Apart from loctite what are my options? Plumber's tape?
QTDDTOT
Alright lads, I installed a hi-vis front sight to my mk iv and its come a bit loose everytime I shoot it. Apart from loctite what are my options? Plumber's tape?
a different color of loctite
at least 243 loctite if not red
safety wire
I want to convert my Ruger PC Carbine to 7.62x25
Rocksett?
Is this prism scope trash tier?
I have two Falke magnifiers and they were impressive for the price (Dvor often has Falke deals). I bought the prism but wound up using a different optic but it seemed nice enough for the price.Glass wasn’t that much worse than Eotech.
German brand that is also being used by German LE. Performance is subpar to Aimpoint, so is durability. Price is great. For 150 I would grab it.
Just on principle of a firearm being used to defend your life you should get a reputable brand used by real killers
Is wear normal already on a new glock 20 WML lug/pickatinny like ditch on the bottom of the gun from the weapon light? I assume its from firing it.
where can I get a barrel extension that fits 9mm threads. I want to turn a 10.5" barrel into a 16" barrel for legal reasons. I would like it to be as light as possible, so thin metal, and maybe with a bunch of holes.
https://kakindustry.com/retro-extended-flash-hider-6-inch ???
Where the frick do you find these? Are they even being made anymore?
damn
I bought a used revolver and the grip reeks of cigarettes. Is there a way to get the smell out or should I replace the grip?
you might get a small ozone generator and put them in a box with it.
Thanks, I don't think I would've thought of that. I'll give it a try
Ozium. It's the only thing you can really get to clean a smoker's car so maybe grips would benefit from it? IDK if it eats finish. Probably contains alcohol which eats shellac so YMMV. Also time. Just needs a frick load of time to air out. The metal will smell like it too for quite some time I'm sure.
what are the grips made out of?
you can try a sonic cleaner, its good to have on hand.
Have you tried not being a gay.
wash them with ammonia. it chemically destroys cigarette residue. I washed wood paneling that was in a smokers house with it, and it looked new.
I want to convert my Ruger PC Carbine to 5.7x28
whats the lightest weight magnified optic? looking for 3x or 4x
wtf is their problem?
anything 300 blk? out of stock.
7", 9", 11.5", 12.5" completely out of stock.
Anything 14.5" with FSP? out of stock.
Only think you're getting at 18" and 20" is a heavy stainless barrel.
What happened to these guys? They used to sell all kinds of stuff. It's not like it happened overnight either, it's been like this for years. Anybody have some inside info on if they'll ever get back to their former glory?
They make their barrels in house?
No. BCM actually makes very little. They purchase barrels from other manufacturers (usually with poor QC) and do intensive QC on them such that when you buy a BCM you know you're getting something that's fully within spec.
>when you buy a BCM you know you're getting something that's fully within spec.
as long as you do not fire the weapon more than 15 times per minute :^)
Everything they do is literally sold out in minutes after appearing on the website. There are bots that buy up all their stuff. Also lots of BCM stuff recently showed up in Europe and Ukraine. Wouldnt be suprised if their shit makes its way over there.
I've had an email notification set up for their 20" FSP upper for about 4 years now and I've never got one. Maybe there is some way people (or bots) are getting access to them before they even appear in stock on the site? I just figured they hadn't made any.
what are the pros and cons of ISMI vs Wolff springs for handgun internal?
Any preppers on here that know how to get some non-prescription antibiotics? I'm poor with no insurance and have an infection, don't have the money to go to a walk in clinic and pay to fill a prescription.
Most pet medicine sites seem to require a prescription now, and some just seem shady like it's a scam and they won't actually ship anything.
If you live in the US and are poor tell them you can't pay and they'll ask you how much money you make and probably set you up with medicaid so you can get some antibiotics.
I've tried, got denied even with zero income. Applied 3 times for various types of assistance and nothing. They deny you for everything unless you get a lawyer and threaten to sue for what you're already supposed to be guaranteed. That's what I've heard at least, haven't gone through with it. Just accepted being dirt poor and adapted.
damn, you can't just leech stuff off of other people?
rough.
Prescription requirement is nanny state bullshit.
Whatever state you live in go to your department of job and family services and put in an application for medicaid and EBT, youll probably not get that much but they will try to make you look for a job or they might even be able to hook you up with an employer or a ride to a job, they do a lot for you.
I've applied 4x and been denied. I really do think they don't give bennies to white people because I was the only white guy in the office and the lady kept asking why I don't just get a job. I've applied to hundreds and nothing, or they don't like my autistic ass during the interview.
They run a scheme for denying people basically, there's only one time sensitive part you have to complete or they close out your case. You have 2 weeks to do it and they mail it out to you so you only have 2 days to get it mailed back, impossible. The next time I made sure to drop it off at their office, still denied for being too late. The next time I requested to use the online portal, there was no option to upload proof of zero income so I put it in the notes section, denied. The next time it was a different portal that required me to sign an affidavit stating I have zero income, still for whatever fricking reason I got denied. These programs are really aren't meant for us, they will make a reason to deny white men. Yet LA County got sued just for their benefits being late once so I'm looking into what I can do.
the hell? After I split my foot open and had a $1500 bill I couldn't pay due to not having a job, I got a call out of the blue from a medicaid lady and after a 3 minute conversation I was signed up and had everything paid for. I guess there's at least one plus side to living in a blue shithole like NYS
call *211 and whine to them. also hospitals are forced by law to treat you. their finance dept will fight to get you medicaid to get the sweet gubmint bux
you can try an online doctor perscription service, just say youre heading to a malaria zone
Telehealth still tries to be mass profit, that's going to run me like $200 after all the fees.
I guess I didn't think to ask my parents out of embarrassment because it's an STD, I think. I haven't even had sex in over a month so it could just be a UTI or an STD that didn't show symptoms until now. I can just tell them I have some other ailment though they might help.
if you are in the states the fish antibiotics at walmart (USED TO BE check for yourself) are the same as what a dr would prescribe
I doubt they still have them at shartmart since the FDA cracked down on it. There's still some online sources I was able to find and verify though, I'll give them a shot. I looked up what types of antibiotics are typically used for my specific ailment and the dosages.
I ended up with $1500 for dislocating my toe. They did nothing but an x-ray and it had already set itself so they taped it and released me. Couldn't pay it due to no job and they sent it to collections, the collections agency was charging ridiculous interest, $300 each month... so I paid it with credit the first month for $1800 now it's just credit card debt with less interest being accrued.
California has become something sinister, every system is failing. I went into the ER and tried to John Doe it, just said I'm not giving any info. They lied to me saying you're definitely covered all we need is your name and you'll get Medi-Cal (our state's Medicare). They smirked as I gave my name and said oh looks like you don't qualify immediately after. Went to the welfare office and got denied 4 times. I'm buying food on credit because I can't even get Calfresh (EBT). I hear federal welfare is a hassle but I'm gonna have to do it soon or I won't be able to even afford a roof with what little illicit money I have.
Unironically find food banks and at least take some burden of buying some consumable you need to live off yourself. Frick.
>mountain biking
>frick up a drop and go over the bars and hit my sternum against a rock
>three ribs broken, i could tell immediately
>once i could breathe and walk i hobble home
>rest, limited movement, pressure tape on my muscles to stretch them out so they dont compress my broken ribs. No rib binding as thats apparently a bad thing
>pillows on both my sides while i sleep so my chest doesnt flex downward
>back on the bike in a month
every time i tell this story the people always respond with "WHY DIDN'T YOU GO TO THE DOCTOR" and the answer is always "so he can tell me my ribs are broken? I already knew that, im not moronic"
Happened again later with a dislocated shoulder. Just pop that sucker back in and dont move it for a week, then do small streching exercises to recover. Going to a doctor so he can literally read out a wikipedia page to you is fricking moronic and you deserve your debt.
I have cured scabies caught at work with permethrin bought at the farm supply store mixed with coconut oil to make a topical cream. I've scraped my own cavity with a dental scrape and regrew the bone using hydroxyapatite paste. I already knew doctors and dentists are scam artists. In this case a gym machine fell over directly onto the edge of my foot, hundreds of pounds smashed the corner of my foot as flat as a pancake with a toe dangling off. I was shocked to see he xray when it only showed my pinky toe being dislocated and the foot bones all in tact, just pushed out of the way. When the swelling went down it set itself and then it was just recovery. So they didn't even do shit but take an xray and charged me $1,800. Quite frankly I just didn't want to pay the israelites because they were extremely rude the whole time.
>I've scraped my own cavity with a dental scrape and regrew the bone using hydroxyapatite paste.
I have no idea if posts like this are serious or not. Surely, SURELY the Americans wouldn't really?
Do mutts really lmao
Our country is one big scam. I did manage to get amoxicillin from Calvetsupply and it arrives today because they're like 2 cities away, so that's in stock if you want some. I should've gotten amoxicillin clavulanate but couldn't find it, it would've been better for all my ailments. I put antibiotic ointment on my rash and it went away in 2 days, they sell that off the shelf. Makes me wonder if you could isolate the antibiotics from the grease it's in. Honestly I should've just stopped by Mexico since it's close enough.
Get a Jase case. Online pharmacies are only a matter of clicking the correct answers and having whatever meds you want shipped to your door.
Spending $300 for 3 bottles is still mass profit healthcare dumbass. Might as well go to the ~~*doctor*~~
antibiotics are like $5 for a full run IF you say you dont have insurance.
False. Without insurance, 7 days of Doxy or Tetra costs me 50 dollars at Walgreens.
degrease the threads of both the screw and hole and reapply loctite, let rest and cure for at least 24 hours before shooting
I've owned a Tikka T1x for a while now and I don't like the mags and mediocore performance, Ive been thinking of a Ruger Precision Rifle for more prs style shooting which im not too interested in, or a 16inch CZ457 for hunting to replace it I like the slim CZ mags especially comapred to blocky Ruger mags and T1x mags just suck.
wut do?
sell the tikka, buy the cz.
if it matters at all, i think youve convinced me towards the cz also.
I've already looked this up and found it to be "yes" but, to make absolutely sure, 300 blk uppers CAN fit on 556 lowers? To follow up, what's the optimal length on a 300 blk?
there is no such thing as a 5.56 lower. there are just AR-15 lowers. there might be weird AR lowers, like AR9 lowers with smaller mag wells and ejection ports, but they will be clearly labeled.
there is no optimal bullet length, morons arbitrarily use powder burnout distance as a number, but that's because they don't understand internal ballistics in the slightest.
Sorry, that's what I meant, AR lower. And did you mean barrel length? I was just wondering what would be considered "good" as I wanted something sub 16" to perhaps store in a bag and have a reduced weight.
Not him, but 8-10" for a .300 BLK barrel is a good length.
>want a rifle
>but have to be able to put it in a bag
>And also it has to be the optimal length for an undefined criterion, you know, because I have a vague idea of what realistic things to prepare for
yeah dude build a 300 memeout. don’t worry about which manufacturer’s barrel because they’re all going to have gaped butthole gas ports so nothing’s really going to gas correctly, and the best ammo when it hits meat are already $3/rd which probably only a few cents more of the same Lehigh Controlled Defense or Buffalo Bore solid copper hunting rounds in a more common and tested cartridge like .223 and .308
but at least your gay zoomer blaster that already has two pins and separates into distinct receiver groups will fold with a $200 adapter and you can tell your noguns friends the US Military adopted 300 BLK with no evidenciary use!
You sound sort of upset
I love it when dumb people buy dumb guns in dumb calibers for dumb circumstances that never enter their dumb lives
>as I wanted something sub 16" to perhaps store in a bag and have a reduced weight.
what you are looking for is a handgun you noguns dipshit.
Actually I wanted something longer than 2-3" that's also in either 556 or 300 blk
no, you said you wanted something small that fits in a bag and has reduced weight.
Nuh uh.
Your first two questions are going to be if you're OK with storing it broken down or if you want a folder. Second questions going to be how big of a bag, you'll fit more in a laptop style backpack than a Jansport or whatever, and more in a "tactical backpack" than a larger normal backpack. Personally I went with a larger but normal backpack and a law folder. I found that the very largest that would technically fit would be an 11.5" 5.56, but its bulging the bag and causes undue wear. "Optimal barrel length" is kinda a meme, longer barrel means more velocity(within reason), the whole burns all its powder in 9" thing for .300 is bs just look at any bbl length Chrono comparison. .30cal muzzle devices(flashiders included) tend to be a little longer than 5.56 ones, I wouldn't go past 9" with a folder, if you're disassembling then you could probably get away with a 10", maybe 10.5". You can get okish performance as low as 5.5" with .300 blk at extremely close ranges if you stick to the Gucci 110gr loads but you're kinda in a grey zone of performance straddling pistol and rifle performance terminally speaking. Personally I'd stick with the 8-9" barrel range, it's a notable improvement based on the hunting results I've seen, if you need shorter then that I'd consider pistol caliber options personally.
Lmao You're a moronic pedantic homosexual.
this entire post is gay and moronic. homosexual’s disingenuously trying to seem versed on a subject that isn’t even relevant because no one who needs a gun in a bag is using a folding AR. handguns suck ballistically but they will always be faster when compared to a short barreled shoulder fired armalite gun you have to pull and either assemble and unfold from a backpack you’re admittedly ruining by trying to cram shit into it for something that statistically will never happen to you, but if it does because statistical insignificance is still possible, you are favoring the bullet in the air and entering the target over getting a Glock out and operating the trigger in less time. both are firing bullets between 900-1300 FPS. except you will look moronic fricking around with shit you wasted money on to look competent instead of looking at what competent people do and emulating them. you never will because what works is boring and you’re a child
>Lmao You're a moronic pedantic homosexual
no, I'm rational.
Thanks for all the information. I'm planning to make it a folder. Thinking about either a PSA jakl or a normal AR upper, I'm still deliberating. I'm not sure what exactly the dimensions of my backpack are, but either way I guess I should get an 8.5 if I wanted to stick a suppressor onto it.
I feel like you're under the assumption I'd want to use an SBR and carry it around as EDC for a defensive situation, which I'm not. I just want a short rifle that fits in a bag, that's it lol
why are even standard ruger marks 500+ dollars? wasn't the original fairly cheap
I was wondering the same thing. I've been looking for a railed threaded upper compatible with the old style takedown Standard/MK1/MK2 but the modern MK IVs and stuff are all that are available. And they're all like $400-500. Take a look on gun.deals.
$529.20
$399.99 (now 420)
>Tacsol PL6TEMBNF (upper only)
$228.75
Silver solder
> 20" FSP upper for about 4 years now and I've never got one
just keep hitting refresh, that sounds like a hot ticket item plenty of rational people are after
Why are vertical grips illegal? I'm not in America so I know nothing about US gun laws. Why are assault rifles legal but some small modification makes them illegal?
VFGs aren't illegal anon, you're probably thinking of VFGs on pistols which makes them AOWs. Shit, there was a .22 rifle (bolt or semi models available) with a vfg in the ~60s-80s.
VFGs on rifles are illegal in many states
Would you like to give me a list because even in those states, they're often counted as a "feature", of which you can have x amount, and could theoretically still be put on a rifle. Most likely in states like CA, NY, NJ. If you're in most states and not the handful of ones where a VFG might possibly make it a SCURRY SALT RUFL depending on what other features your rifle has, you're fine. Finding a list of states with feature laws doesn't seem to be popping up easily in my searches
I can name one state anyway; CT. If its a semi-auto rifle with a removable magazine, its not allowed a single "feature"
saying their illegal is illegal
>SHALL NOT
you cannot restrict someone's access to being safely able to handle firearms, that also goes against the Americans with Disabilities Act
batf and liberal grabbers can stuff their whole heads up their asses and lick their own rectums, they don't even have legal ground to stand on, much less anything else
>saying their
they're*
in the us there are pistols, rifles, and short barreled rifles.
pistols are weapons not designed to be fired from the shoulder, so you get your normal handguns, but you also have weapons that used to be based on rifle designs but had the stock chopped off that are now legally pistols because they were registered as pistols when they were created.
pistols are not allowed to have certain rifle features, like forward grips, or stocks, but can legally have a barrel length under the maximum required for a rifle
rifles are weapons designed to be fired from the shoulder but they are required to be over a maximum overall length and also have to be over a maximum barrel length. They are, however, allowed to be equipped with forward grips, etc.
short barreled rifles are weapons designed to be fired from the shoulder but, because you pay a special tax to the government, and register them with said government, you are allowed to have features of both pistols and rifles, such as short barrels or forward grips.
all of these small modifications you are talking about (forward grip on handgun, stock on handgun, rifle with too short barrel, etc) cause a weapon to be moved into the short barreled rifle category, which requires special taxes and registration.
>pistols are weapons not designed to be fired from the shoulder, so you get your normal handguns, but you also have weapons that used to be based on rifle designs but had the stock chopped off that are now legally pistols because they were registered as pistols when they were created.
but you CAN have a brace on a pistol (just don't shoulder it, or maybe you can now) and you can have an angled foregrip (as long as it's not 90 degrees)
Why is that moron showing off his teeth?
Why are all models of WW2 tank functionally extinct, but there are literally thousands of M48 and T-55 tanks still in active service in lower tier countries?
Because they're poor and can't afford better shit.
No, the specific question I was asking, and I'm not fishing for "look at this IS-2 in Ukraien lolol" shitposts, is how did every Sherman/T-34/Panzer (okay, we know what happened to most of the Panzers) evaporate so quickly but tanks that are at this point extremely nearly as old as them proliferate to this day?
TL:DR Because those tanks were, largely, scrapped in the massive drawdown from WWII. And there's a VERY big difference in keeping a tank from 80 years ago running, compared to one from 50-60 years ago.
Most of them were at least obsolescent, and a lot were functionally worthless relics of 1920s-30s design and principles. It doesn't help that most of the wartime designs took a lot of shortcuts to make them easier to produce, and to Hell with their long-term sustainability. Everyone took the drawdown in force as a chance to re-equip and get rid of all their clapped-out obsolete garbage in favor of stuff that had actually learned the lessons of WWII. What little functional equipment remained got dumped into active warzones and blew up sometime from then until now. What's left got scrapped in the later waves of Cold War aid, for a few reasons.
The vehicles designed for the early Cold War were easier to keep running and designed to last quite a bit longer. More-modern production materials and techniques helped a lot with that. When the First and Second World countries upgraded, those tanks were a simple sell to allied countries. Like as not, they just needed a tank fleet-in-being, rather than an actual combat force. With (say) an African tin-hat dictatorship grabbing a '70s tank that you can get spare parts for beats the absolute shit out of trying to get bush mechanics to try to keep a T-34 running. And frankly the weapons on almost all WWII-era tanks are useless compared to '70s armor, let alone the difficulty of getting ammo for them. Finally: The RPG-2 and -7 existed, were incredibly cheap, and anything WWII-vintage was outright dead against them.
Thank you for this thorough reply
I was visualizing the actual ages closer together (the T-55 showed up just in time to miss WW2 and the M48 showed up just in time to miss Korea) but what you're saying makes a lot of sense that this meant the tanks weren't built as hodgepodge or expediently as the ones that served, especially since in 1944 or so, brand new heaps were still rolling out of factories according to 1920s era blueprints
who offers free shipping on ammo, and even better, doesn't charge tax in accordance to your state?
Midway occasionally has free shipping, but charges tax. It'll be hard to find a site that doesn't charge tax that also isn't a sus scam site.
don't use loctite or anything for threads, use a crazy glue type adhesive, and make sure it's not something that will become viscous when heated, as if your .22 will do that, but yea just gorilla glue type stuff will work
could a gunbroker seller give me bad feedback if I back out of an auction (I'd still be willing to pay their listed restocking fee)
made a bid in a not so sober state the other night and it happened to win...
They COULD, but if you just talk to them and like you say, offerto cover their expenses, they probably won't.
I bought two 30-round Colt magazines, and on both, the follower sometimes gets stuck, unlike my 20-round one, how do i fix this ?
Put a new follower in, the Magpul ones should work. I think they're made for GI pattern mags.
Don't buy old aluminum mags, only steel mags are made to last forever. You basically bought very old heavily used plastic mags, they were meant to be disposable and that's why they're beat beyond shit. I made the mistake of buying issued aluminum GI mags and ran into the same issues, followers tilting, getting stuck, and not stopping the bolt on the last round. If you want GI pattern metal mags there are steel Korean ones.
>If you want GI pattern metal mags there are steel Korean ones.
I've got a handful of these. I haven't shot theme yet but they feel solid built like brick shithouses. I'm not super fond of the shiny black finish on them but it's not a dealbreaker.
I just sprayed mine tan so they look like those Iraq war mags. The followers are said to cause malfunctions but I bought them anyway because they were $5 each, and I've never had a malfunction in plenty of rounds. Worst case scenario if they start fricking up I'll throw Mahpul followers in them.
>black follower
There's your issue. While I love my green followers that everyone hates and my one Okay black follower 30rd mag, followers have gotten way better over the years. Grab two Magpul 30rd springs and followers or some surplus orange/blue follower+spring sets and put the black followers in your parts drawer. Also might be your springs; they could be worn out. Now, if you're talking about pressing the followers down by hand rather than while in use, yeah, the old ones didn't have much in the way of anti-tilt design and even the green ones get bound up pretty easy. In use I don't find much of a difference, at least at the range.
Also where the frick did you find black follower Colt mags lol? Seriously I have to search high and low for anything that older than green. Also, post pic from top of mag showing follower. They might be something special (real early mags) but I doubt it.
I found them in a surplus store. I oiled and cleaned them; they're a bit better now but still jam if you push down the front of the follower, unlike the 20-round magazine, which is better built (the one all the way to the right)
I'll still test them at the range and see if they jam, and worst-case scenario, I'll buy a Magpul follower to replace the original ones
Oh yeah, the old followers will do that, even green. On the range they should be fine. I've had followers worse than black (lol Spain) and they ran fine. The Universal/Simmonds Precision one might actually be Vietnam era, as early as late 60s.
https://www.ar15.com/forums/ar-15/Development-of-the-AR-15-Magazine-and-Photo-Resource-Thread/123-784346/
Unless they're a constant curve (right), it appears they're just regular black followers, not the stupidly early ones. Constant curve would probably be marked ".223" on the baseplate and have a stamped metal follower. The one that came after that would have an even earlier than black follower, though still plastic. You have the standard more common black follower that came before the green did. Should be fine on the range as I said before.
I would've linked a site with a better idenification guide but not only is that missing some of what I said here (and has some of what is missing in that ar15.com guide), I can't find it. What a mess.
Stupid question, but I've never done it before, so. Buying a receiver online, and they need my FFL's license #. Looking up their license, most of it's censored. Would I be alright sending it like that, or do I need to contact the FFL and get them to send the entire thing?
>or do I need to contact the FFL and get them to send the entire thing?
That. It must come from the FFL, not from you. It's also wise to contact the FFL anyway so they know to expect the incoming shipment, and you can also find out what their fees and policies are in advance.
Sent an email without the full number, but they had my FFL on file already and it worked out. I'll keep this in mind for the future though, thanks.
Have you talked to the FFL to find out if he's going to charge you $20 or $100 yet?
Is taking someone to a local FFL to fill out a 4473 to do an instant background check a thing or are we expected to pay for an independent background check anytime we sell a gun to someone that isn't an FFL if we are doing things by the book?
google your state laws you stupid fricking zoomer
>Is taking someone to a local FFL to fill out a 4473 to do an instant background check a thing
Yes, that's literally what FFLs do. That's what you're paying them for. That is doing things by the book.
>we expected to pay for an independent background check
No. That wouldn't even be legal.
I have both a Ruger 38spl Only LCR and a Ruger SP101 2" taking up space not serving any real niche.
Any real reason I shouldn't sell both and pick up a 340PD? Seems like the ultimate carry revolver to me. 11OZ 357 magnum.
You will never shoot it with 357 magnum and if you do, you'll only do it once. May as well just keep the LCR and sell the SP101 if you don't care for it. If you can find a range with a little 357 mag J frame or LCR try that out before you sell your current guns.
Fair enough. I'm also actively searching for a 337PD or a 342PD. Anyone have one?
>Seems like the ultimate carry revolver to me
The Airweights are fine for *carry*, but they are miserable to shoot unless you're shooting super weak mousefart loads, and I say this as a big revolver junkie who loves hot .44 mags, .454 Casull, .445 Supermag, .475 Linebaugh, etc. You will never want to train with that airweight .357.
My mother loved her Airweight and carried it for years. She finally swapped it with a BRSA because she flat-out couldn't land a third heart-lung shot at 10 yards with the fricking thing using full-power loads. I'm not a small guy and I can't keep it tight for a full cylinder of rapid fire either. It's like wrestling a stung python keeping the little bastard on-target, and I'd sooner carry a micro-compact .45.
i'm gonna get a SCARH, is there a list of optics that will not get their ass torn apart by it ?
Im moving from a free state to one that is difficult to get firearms in. I currently have 2x .22 handguns, and a 9mm carbine. I think pistols are going to be more difficult to get.
Lets say I have a budget of $1000... what should I buy? Should I buy a single $1000 gun? or like 3x $333 guns?
I could get like a single Mini-14.
Or a 38SPL revolver, a 10/22, and an AR7
Or maybe like a 308 bolt gun and a 10/22
or maybe like an SKS and a 38SPL revolver
Ban state anon. Foxtrot Mike "Ranch Rifles" might have something for you. You can get most pistols with 15 rounds no problem in IL, even in Chicago. I bought a USP less than 3 months ago with 0 hassle. But out of your selection I'd say maybe a 10/22 and whatever handgun you want that has 15 or less round mag included.
Thinking about finally getting a long gun chambered in .22lr. Is the 10/22 still the go to choice or are there better options now?
I'd personally go 10/22. Just a huge ass aftermarket and parts availability is unlikely to dry up in a lifetime.
Idk what they cost now but I bet I'd laugh if I checked. The 10/22s quality is that of an under $200 rifle, and that's how they got popular is they were $189 and the ammo was extremely cheap. If they're not still sub $200 and the ammo isn't $1.50 for 50 rounds, what's the point of .22? I wouldn't bother, it's not even a real rifle so why spend the cost of a real rifle and real ammo?
Oh and reason for me personally not being interested if they're not under 200, it's the shittiest rifle I've owned. Plastic everywhere, the sights chipped off and I've heard of triggers breaking off. The stock is the cheapest plywood crap that dings easily, and again it shoots .22. The point is it's supposed to be a cheap little trashcan rifle, yet idiots are paying what $500 for one now? Ridiculous, I'd just get an AR at that point. The only .22s I'd be interested in are guns that are otherwise too expensive to get, that I have no real need for but think are cool. Personally I have a GSG MP5 .22 and love it, scratches my MP5 itch adequately and didn't cost $1,500 just to shoot 9mm. Other ones I'd be interested in are an AUG or P90 in .22
>Idk what they cost now but I bet I'd laugh if I checked. The 10/22s quality is that of an under $200 rifle, and that's how they got popular is they were $189 and the ammo was extremely cheap. If they're not still sub $200
>The point is it's supposed to be a cheap little trashcan rifle, yet idiots are paying what $500 for one now? Ridiculous, I'd just get an AR at that point.
What are you on about you dork? It's $220 for the plastic stocked carbine and $250 for a wood stocked carbine and that's not even on sale (ie. wait for July 4th or some other big holiday) when they've been going under $200 IIRC.
>https://gun.deals/search/apachesolr_search/1151
>https://gun.deals/search/apachesolr_search/1103
>Plastic everywhere
Yes the trigger group and barrel band are now plastic. Everyone's been doing this and it sucks but if I can be honest, my trigger pull is better on the plastic model.
>the sights chipped off and I've heard of triggers breaking off.
Literally fricking how. The sights are steel. Triggers you'd be hard fricking pressed to break. Guards maybe but that's literally every nylon trigger group/trigger guard from 10/22 to even Remington 870s and Mavericks/Mossbergs. Bend (steel/aluminum) or break (plastic), that's your choice. I've beat the hell out of mine in the woods and never broke a single part and it's even a modern production gun.
(cont.)
If it's still around 200 I'd buy one again, but it's a cheapass rifle. My sights are plastic and a piece broke off, the trigger is the same type of cheap feeling plastic so I wouldn't be surprised if it broke too. The trigger group is never something that should be done in plastic, idc what you Glockucks say.
The sights are metal, front and back. IDK what you're on about; I actually replaced mine and had to punch them out. They're blued steel. They can take a beating from the side (with a punch), but maybe that little flip up/down feature can make them fragile and easy to tear off. The same design was tried on the Marlin 336 and I've never heard of issues with either.
>the trigger is the same type of cheap feeling plastic so I wouldn't be surprised if it broke too.
I've yet to and I'm pretty clumsy in the woods. The trigger guard might break if it's old enough and it takes a hit but it'd save your potentially expensive trigger guts and your hunt would probably go on with no issues; the same thing happens to military Mossbergs with plastic trigger guards that have been in the sun 7 days a week since god only knows what year. It does suck to have to replace the whole trigger assembly to put the old guts in if the guard breaks but that's life. There's ups and downs with both; I've heard the plastic guards on Mossbergs mostly break and can continue to be used while the metal sometimes block your trigger via bending from a similar fall. I have to wonder if something similar wouldn't happen on a 10/22. I wish the BX triggers at least had metal cast groups rather than polymer but they don't which sucks.
>The trigger group is never something that should be done in plastic
I wish they were still metal, though the finish always left something to be desired; at least the black stays on this fricking thing. They should've been anodized, not painted, when they were still made from aluminum. I don't know if the trigger is fully polymer; it might just be a shell on the bottom. That is one thing that really ought to be metal, though Remington got away with a nylon trigger with the 66 in 1959 so maybe it's not as bad as I think.
>idc what you Glockucks say.
Actually I carry a Beretta 92FS and don't own a Glock precisely because I'm not a huge fan of polymer frames lol.
I'm not reading your rant. Plastic is not acceptable on guns. My sights are plastic, it's an older one probably around year 2003 and the sights cracked around 2007.
>The stock is the cheapest plywood crap that dings easily
It's beech or birch and not ply (which is stronger btw) unless you get the fancier models or aftermarket upgraded stocks but...
>and the ammo isn't $1.50 for 50 rounds, what's the point of .22?
>Ridiculous, I'd just get an AR at that point
Have you seen the cost of .223 or 5.56 right now? It's 40-43cpr for .223 and 42-45cpr for 5.56 before shipping. .22lr is currently 2-5cpr. Every common caliber has gone up by like 10-30%.
>The only .22s I'd be interested in are guns that are otherwise too expensive to get, that I have no real need for but think are cool. Personally I have a GSG MP5 .22 and love it
You bought that hunk of junk yet you're shit talking the 10/22? What?
>Other ones I'd be interested in are an AUG or P90 in .22
>P90 in .22
You mean the 10/22 in a plastic shell...?
10/22 is a quality rifle, but if you want sub $200, get an AR7
ar7s are piles of shit you only buy cause of the novelty.
what exactly is your issue with them
Are Rossi RS22 in 22WMR any good?
ar7s are mostly jamtastic finicky guns that are very mag dependent,(you can have a reliable one but thats you getting a good mag) horrible sights, horrible ergonomics they feel super flimsy.
its a gun that you dont want to plink with or shoot often. cause they suck. the only thing they are good at is being stored, not shot.
NTA but I hear the barrels are stupid thin, like barrel liner-tier, simply surrounded by nylon to stiffen them. They're not great unless you need a takedown rifle, in which case the 10/22 TD exists. I don't know how much lighter they are but it can't be enough to be worth it.
Sounds like they made a mistake and fixed it. I own a 2022/2023 and there's no plastic sights.
Then made another mistake of putting a plastic trigger on it...
>what exactly is your issue with them
Because it kind of sucks. The AR-7 is a survival tool that sacrifices a lot of durability and basic function to be very light. They're meant to be shot a few times in their whole lifetime, not used as a utility or entertainment gun like most beater .22s are.
It's got an ugly, off-center, bloated-ass stock that's extremely uncomfortable and difficult to index. The barrel is so thin and unsupported it visibly warps after dumping a couple mags. When you CAN dump a mag at all, because their lockup sucks ass (made worse if the receiver, mag, or stock has been warped by heat or moderately rough handling) and the mags themselves are cheap and sticky. Newer guns have the metal just sort of jammed into a slot bearing against plastic, which means they wear quickly if you actually use them and a little too much heat or a good whack can really screw up assembly. The plug in the butt of the stock (hurrhurrhurr) also wears out, although more slowly than the action/stock interface. Unless the stock just splits.
Old guns had low-hardness aluminum parts in the trigger group wearing against steel. Which means the gun can abruptly become an extremely illegal amount of fun with little or no warning.. or just stop shooting. I've also run into older ones with extremely soft screws.
The AR-7 is adequate - for exactly the job you're intended to do with it. Which is stick it in a case in the wienerpit of a floatplane or under the seat in a fishing boat and forget about it unless you crash. For ultralight camping the Little Badger mogs the frick out of it. As a fun gun, you're better off with - almost literally - anything else.
My ex-gf bought one on in 22 lr and it seemed nice enough. I didn’t shoot it much.
After all this REEing over what .22 is good and what to get...I don't think a single person has asked anon what your use case for it is. So where do you see yourself using it and how? Range? Target? Competing? Hunting? Price range? Thoughts on irons, red dot, scopes? Price range for those?
oh and ar7 are 300 now, which is more than enough to buy a real 22 rifle that isnt a pile of crap. though if you want the novel gimmick of stores in the stock then ar7 is the only option.
clean and degrease the screws and the hole really well. then try it again with loctite
Can you make an MLOK as stable as quad rail (for lasers maintaining zero) at all with loctite etc or is that just a pipe dream?
Am I legally obliged to turn in the semi-auto gun I accidentally turned into full-auto or I can keep it? It fell from big height, something broke inside it and now it fires in full-auto when the safety is set to semi-auto.
No you're fine just take the junk out that broke and replace said parts. Shit happens. Shit breaks. Sear surfaces get worn out. People polish trigger groups a little too much. Oops full auto via hammer follow. Unless it like, "fell from a big height on a drill bit drilling the third pin and an autosear just happened to install itself", you're fine.
Anyone ever frick around with self healing targets? Need targets and I'm wondering if they're worth it compared to a stack of paper targets
I like the ones that are shaped like a ball or other geometric solids and they move around on the ground when you shoot them. I don't care for the ones that are shaped like a normal flat target, silhouette, etc.
Why are Mechanix gloves the go-to for a lot of people for shooting? What about them specifically makes them good for that? I've never worn a pair.
1. they are cheap
2. you can buy them at wal marts or academy or online or basically anywhere
thats it. Cheap ass gloves that you won't actually wear out cause you dont use guns that much.
They're shit. Idk why suede gloves are popular in the 007 community (0 training, 0 kills, 7 guns). Everything you touch can't be gripped well and they wear out too quickly. Gardening gloves are the cheapest solution and do decently as medical gloves due to the latex coverage. Baseball and golfing gloves give great grip as well and don't wear out like fricking suede. It's almost like you kiddos are getting scammed into consooming...
Find a high quality pair of these that fits well, forget about it, done deal for perfect gloves that are cheap enough to swap often if they wear out which they barely do. There's kinds with a strap around the wrist that don't slip off as easily, can't find the ones I'm thinking about though.
And basically the only issue with these is they grip so well they slip. Searching pockets is a pain if you get the kind that are too grippy and don't slide, but the slick surface ones go into pockets easier. In a fight if you grab someone they may slip because there's no wrist strap, but there are some similar gloves that have them. Good for it weather not sufficient for very cold, but they have cold weather ones too.
What I don't get is why gloves are popular at ALL in the shooting community. I wear gloves when I'm hunting in the winter and it's fricking cold. Otherwise what's the point? I can see why they'd make sense for soldiers and cops, or maybe if you shoot high volume action type competitions where there's a legit risk you might touch a really hot barrel or you're doing action sorts of maneuvers but what's the point for recreational shooting when it's not cold out? Larp/cosplay?
I once had to disassemble my rifle mid range session to get a light primer strike unstuck. During the process when I was re-assembling my rifle due to the nature of its assembly I sheared off a chunk of my finger. Bled so much it looked like a crime had been committed. There are a number of reasons you may want to wear gloves, including manipulating functions more easily (can get a much better and more comfortable grip on an AK CH) or if you're shooting enough not burning your hands on your handguard.
I never wear gloves full time when shooting because bare hands have better articulation, but they're good to have around for tasks. I dug around a bit and found that cut resistant gloves are the same style as gardening gloves, and some have the rubber coating. Then I find that 5.11 makes a cut resistant glove with full rubber coverage. So I guess these are officially a thing in the LEO community. The slip risk isn't that bad, and I realized I don't want to frick with a strap when I need to quickly dawn gloves. If you want these though I would highly advise to get the slick ones, the rubber is like a smooth plasticy type rather than rough more grippy rubber. They can slide along clothing and into pockets for searches, and blood and piss don't soak right through them if you don't have time to put latex gloves on. These are legit the most tactical gloves I'd say even for SHTF amd war stuff, just because you don't lose as much feel or articulation as with leather gloves. Someone needs to build off these to make the perfect glove because they don't seem ideal for climbing or really fighting hard since there's no way to tighten around the wrist.
I usually don't wear them at all even hunting. I'll wear some thin stretchy gardening gloves with a nitrile palm/fingers late Fall and as it gets closer to winter, additionally help my hands stay warm with an electronic hand warmer (which I laughed at until I tried one; way nicer than paying $1/pack). If it's REALLY cold then I get military mittens and wool liners. Those shitty thin gardening gloves are real nice though since it's like wearing nothing at all. But if you're paying more than $2/pair for them it's a fricking waste. I shred them just from hunting and using them with a 10/22 with no sharp edges. The rubber wears through quick. They really don't protect against much other than moisture and small thorns when new; I mostly use them to cover up my pasty white hands for camo and give minor resistance to getting cold from wind when hunting late fall/mid winter while keeping my ability to grip my gun and not have it slide around like you would with acrylic knit gloves. They are nice for shooting .22 though since loading mags will make your fingers filthy after a while It's just yet another consumable to CONSOOM for most however; it's another thing advertised as "you totally need this bro" that will mostly sit in a box of other "tactical shit you need" and never use.
They're cheap and tough, and marginally better than most Harbor Freight options.
No. You're legally-obligated to remove and repair (or destroy and replace) the broken part(s) immediately. Or take it to someone who can. It should be pretty obvious what busted when you open it up. I've had it happen to a couple guns. Most recently an AR-15 that snapped off the top of the buffer retaining pin. The bolt picked up the spring and dumped it under the hammer. Went fullauto for about a dozen rounds without touching the trigger, until I managed to ditch the mag. Shit happens. And controlling for and mitigating it is the difference between an AD and an ND.
Anyway.
Fix it or get it to a gunsmith ASAP.
If weed gets reclassified as a class 3 drug then will that mean it's removed from forums?
What is 5.56, .223, 9mm, .38, etc. brass going for at the moment? I don't want super crazy top dollar, just "would be reasonable that someone would actually buy at" and over what I'd get for scrapping it. It'd be sorted by brand/stamp. Looking for price per casing or around 50-250rd bags. I want to sell off some stuff I really really don't need or want. Just once fired range brass, not deprimed or polished or anything.
Plz spoonfeed me once fired brass prices by caliber; I'd price according to what I see from sites only selling brass but I assume they have to be pretty pricey in comparison. I don't want to be THAT guy.
>sorted by brand/stamp
>not bothering to give it a wash
So is this vampire-counting-rice-tier autism or are you just dense?
https://ammoseek.com/reloading/brass
Frick I didn't even realize ammoseek did brass now. Also I'm really only getting into selling brass and I'm not sure if it even sells here; I'm just dipping my toes into the idea really. There's a couple places I'm considering setting up and selling stuff I don't need and I have a Lowes/Home Depot bucket overflowing with the stuff plus probably half a bucket strewn around. If I get takers then sure, I'll start washing. If no one wants brass locally, then I'll scrap what I don't need for profit. I want to keep the super nice shit that came with my hunting ammo that was near mirror polished and some of the bulk but I really really really don't need like 5000rds worth of various brands of 9mm brass, half of which I ended up picking up from it being mixed with my own on the floor. And I really really really don't need the .40 and 10mm that gets mixed in when picking up my 9mm brass after shooting. From what I hear the local scrapyards give you a bit of shit (mostly by fricking you on the price) if you bring them spent cases that haven't been deprimed because "muh what if duds". And it's a pretty hefty fricking for what is otherwise bright brass or whatever they call it.
Scrappies don't give a crap about tarnishing, they care about actual dirt because dirt has mass.
Giving brass a quick wash is a no-brainer because it costs you nothing but a squirt of fairy liquid and maybe 5 minutes to chuck it in and out of the drum. Personally I just dump everything in as I'm unloading the truck without even looking at what random shit the wife's been picking up.
What I'd do is pick out the good stuff (large rifle, revolver, 10mm, etc) and give that a decap and polish when I'm doing my own brass, and either throw the 9mm and .223 at a scrappy or try to flog it unsorted by weight, just knock the shite off and pick out anything that stands out as obviously fricked.
I'm talking about selling it at like a flea market or something as my first attempt. Then I'd be washing it. First I'm going to see if I get any interest at a flea market or something similar just unsorted brand, sorted by caliber, and if I do get interest, then I start putting more effort into it. First attempt I get at selling it is just a couple days away so there's not much time as I need to get other junk found, sorted, and priced first. Second will probably get more traffic and it will be cleaned but not decapped and that's when I really see whether or not people want it locally. If I get no interest, then I go to scrapping and I don't bother cleaning as there's no dirt, just the rare tarnishing. Local scrapyard is a great place to get flats though; they really don't clean up at the scale and I'd be getting just as much money for my brass as I'd be spending (time or money) in repairing holes in my damn tires by the sounds of it. Most of my cases are still bright, not tarnished (other than a little carbon) and dirt free. Also, I assume "fairy liquid" = Dawn or Ajax dish soap? I know about LemShine (and lemon juice) being magic shit for brass cleaning. I still need a setup for brass cleaning btw. Haven't yet gotten that far. Thank god it's summer though so I can just set that shit out in the sun to dry.
Yeah, liquid dish soap. Whatever detergent you have that's cheap, I chuck in a mix that includes EDTA, citric, caustic and washing sodas but that's what I have handy. Dawn is fine. All you need is some sort of rollers, some watertight tubs, and a motor to belt drive one side. I use old whey tubs for the shitey desert brass and keep the proper tumbler nice and clean for pin tumbling. I wouldn't bother with media or citric unless you're going the whole way.
I'm not sure a flea market is where the buyers are. Other ideas for getting value back out of brass would be flogging them as snap caps on ebay (pick out the nickel plate) or you might find a scrappy who isn't inclined to hand out decent cash, but is more agreeable to a cashless brass-for-lead trade.
Dumb question but do bayonet lugs hold zero? Could I attach a peq 15 and make it work?
Depends on how good a job you do with the attachment. The lug is rigidly mounted to the barrel so it won't move. If you make the mating connector suitably solid and precise it will hold zero.
the lug might be solid but the surfaces themselves arent square or anything consistent enough that a mass produced mount would fit and stay zeroed
>but the surfaces themselves arent square or anything consistent enough that a mass produced mount would fit and stay zeroed
Yes, that's why I suggested he MAKE a suitable mount. If he incorporates wedges or setscrews that force the mount to register a certain way it will be consistent enough for mounting a laser.
Thinking of getting a Howa mini action.
What caliber should I get?
223
6.5 Grendel
6mm ARC
Two questions
Is there an optic sub 100$ that is worth anyones time?
Should a bedside gun be cheap?
i was going to say utg bug buster but the fricking things are 150+ now
when they were 75-99 roughly a decade ago
wtf happened that chinkshit went that high
Lmao what the frick? That used to be the go to "bro buy this chinkshit scope" of the air rifle world. Honestly at over $150...or frankly even $150, you might as well go all the way and get a Leupold for like $260-300.
No, there aren't really any cheap guns any more. I suggest always looking for quality regardless because if it is supposed to protect your life you don't want shit.
inflation.
>inflation.
nah there are plenty of other shitty optics that are still the exact same price they were a decade ago.
did utg turn into a legit brand or something
Why does ebay only sell single stack magazines?
I mean sub 500$. Like would a tisas or bersa be good for a bedside gun for example?
I mean thats how im feeling to because I really really dont want to lose my tokarevs or my cx4, I have a 22 practice pistol I could lose but it was a 500$ sr22 and I feel like even indoors and as quiet but idk if it is enough other than a threat. I guess it is probably fine. Optic question was mostly for the cx4.
I will look into that. I also looked at Bushnell trs 125 and at4 rd50 but there is a lot of chinese and budget shit that is probably air gun tier and idk.
Is see Sig MSRs for $79.99 out there. PSA will sell the Romeo 7s for right at $100. Personally, if I was going budget dot, I'd get the Romeo 5 for only like another 20 bucks.
Yes, but others are more knowledgeable on optics than I am.
Ideally yes, because if you actually use a bedside gun for defense there's always a risk of it disappearing for God knows how long into an evidence locker. Better to do that with a gun you won't miss.
>Is there an optic sub 100$ that is worth anyones time?
I have a Romeo on my beater rifle and it works well enough
>Should a bedside gun be cheap?
You want something extremely reliable that you can straight-up grab, load, and operate while blindfolded. I use my old ex-carry Argie 1911 with a grip laser. And yeah, as other Anons have pointed out you need to assume that any gun you use for home defense is going to disappear into an evidence locker. Anything that looks fun is going to have the cops sneak it out to the range, put 1000 rounds through it, and forget to clean it afterwards while it's in there. If you're lucky and someone doesn't "lose" it like that fat homosexual cop in Seattle who was selling evidence guns off the back of his pickup for decades.
whats the lightest red dot + magnifier combo.
What is the best type of action for having the most fun while plinking? Single shot? Lever action? Bolt action? Semiauto?
Lever or semi unless you like plinking at 100+ yards. Bolts are still fun (especially at long range), while singles are hard to repeat shots with and the actions usually aren't as satisfying as the others.
It's very subjective. I love CZ 452s because they are bolt action but so smooth you can work it with your pinky. That won't be as fun with a cheapo bolt action where it's stiff to operate. For lever guns the Browning BL22 is king but it is also expensive. Meanwhile some people just can't have fun shooting unless they can magdump a semi auto.
The type depends on what YOU have fun shooting, and spending a bit extra on quality can make a big difference.
I think that's very subjective. Personally my favorites are single shots and break-actions. Muzzle-loaders are a lot of fun too. That said I also dearly love my SBRed AR with a dedicated .22LR upper and a can stuck on it.
is reloading 45-70 actually worth it? Can I get it under 75 cpr?
Yes, the retail price is insane and you can cut it to a fraction of the cost. I don't know about sub 75cpr, but even $1/rd would be a significant savings. Because it is a straight walled rimmed cartridge it is relatively easy to reload as well.
.45-70 is extremely easy to reload, that being said, 75CPR is a really good price.
probably not.
not for any good reason, because that would be sick.
ammoseek has reloading components.
easier. being single is super simple, but not as fulfilling as having someone to share life with.
>t. married going on 2 years after being single and being about as happy as you can be with that.
Having trouble with my new LCP. Fresh out the box and hasn’t been fired. Upon reassembly the slide got stuck halfway. Any suggestions?
I love that there is a good place to see good guncrazy Americans now that pol is a russia shillhole x)
>Depends which shit state.
Connecticut. They are extremely restrictive, worse than CA I think.
Any centerfire rifle with a removable magazine may not have a pistol grip, and fin grips do not cut it. This essentially means all AR15s are illegal, except for something like an SCR or something with a fixed mag.
Any pistol with a magazine that inserts anywhere but the grip is also not allowed, so no AR15 pistols, or even like a Ruger PC Charger would be a no-go.
In order to purchase any rifle, you need a long gun eligibility certificate or a pistol eligibility certificate, and in order to purchase a pistol you need a pistol eligibility certificate. Im not really sure what is required to get those, but I think the pistol requires taking safety classes which have a long wait time, and I think the long gun certificate is easier to get.
I am on limited funds, dont wanna spend more than $1k. The closest thing I have to a fighting rifle is a 9mm carbine, and the closest thing I have to a defensive handgun is a semi-auto 22LR. Kinda feel like I should spend the money on a real semi-auto rifle like an SKS or Mini-14, and/or a real defensive handgun at least 38 ACP.
I would say get an AR for cheap and a bunch of mags and never tell anyone but if you actually want to go to a range with it then yeah the mini 14 is your best bet. as for a handgun just get whatever 9mm one you'd like and would be able to carry that you can afford. I'd argue that you should buy the handgun first as a mini 14 new will destroy your budget but you might be able to squeeze something like a cz p10 that are going for pretty cheap and a used mini 14. keep in mind to stock a bunch of mags now too if you don't have another plan to smuggle them in later.
I was thinking of getting just a lower, and I think I can have the rest of the parts shipped to me easily. Standard lowers are so small and cheap I think its an easyish option. Was also thinking of getting an SCR lower, but they are pretty damn pricey, $700 msrp.
CT sucks as far as finding places to shoot, its not like the west where you can find federally owned land. Pretty much have to go to a range, or know someone with large enough property that is OK with it.
Was thinking of getting something like a Savage A22 or Rossi RS22 (semi-auto 22mag), but 22mag is still weaker than what I want.
I'll figure something out, but thanks, kinda helping me lean towards a cheap AR lower and a Mini-14, or SKS if I happen to find one.
yeah the ct legal options eat your budget of $1000 if you're wanting something "nice". you could go the maverick 88 option if you need a defensive long gun and that leaves you room for a "nice" handgun.
I live in a state that limits magazine capacity on semi-auto rifles. What are my options to get past this? Is there a workaround? Can I go to a different state and purchase something at a gun show and bring it back?
>. What are my options to get past this?
break the law and be a criminal that hasnt been caught
Does a grenade/mine going off in an enclosed space (like a small room, a tunnel, or a vehicle) significantly affect its lethality, as opposed to detonating outside or in an open trench?
Yes. It dramatically increases concussion/overpressure effects, which are less of a concern with a hand grenade than a mine or a high-explosive device. The shape of the room or tunnel also matters. While the concussion will "bounce" around a 90-degree corner for a short distance, it dissipates much more rapidly than it would in a straight tunnel of the same volume. Fragments are the most lethal part of grenades and most anti-personnel mines: their lethality is essentially unaffected by blowing in an enclosed space, and they obviously don't really bounce around corners.
If it's Washington, then you have to have owned magazines before the ban. Which many people stocked up on, even if they didn't own rifles. Manufacturing or transferring them is now illegal. Of course if you happen to have manufactured or bought some undated magazines before the ban, that would be fine. Of course, building a rifle off of a lower is now illegal as well, although that's currently in litigation.
...Christ I hope Ferguson catches a bad case of aneurysm before he can actually go for governor.
does anyone have camo stencil set pdf or SVG to print out?
https://tactwrap.com/collections/stencils
I was thinking of getting one or two and getting them reproduced at a printers.
https://www.google.com/search?q=open+source+royalty+free+camo+stencil&sca_upv=1
What pattern are you looking at? I like this method, hoping you want tiger stripe or ATACS...
I was going to get either woodland, or https://tactwrap.com/products/chocolate-chip-desert-camo , or one of these https://www.freedomstencils.com/collections/camouflage-stencils
I'm tempted to buy them and scan them to reprint them.
And I can't quite find a pic to show it off, but you overlap it like this to create a sheet. Pulling random numbers out my ass, say you have a roll of tape 2" wide. Each strip would overlap the last by 1/4" to secure them to each other as a sheet. You put it on the fabric, cover enough of the fabric to make a stencil for your rifle, trace the pattern with a pen or pencil which won't bleed through the tape, LABEL EACH PIECE WHAT COLOR IT IS BY WRITING ON THE TAPE, then remove the whole sheet, put it on a sheet of plastic or a plexiglas sheet (these were really common to find in the trash untouched for like 2 years where I lived for some ungodly reason so I have a ton around), and cut it with an x-acto knife. Then you simply paint the rifle the base color, say green, and wait for it to dry. Once dry (like 48h) then you put the stencil on and slowly paint in each section. You'd probably have to be careful to keep the parts you peel off though as I'm struggling to figure out how you'd prevent painting over the last color you just did other than waiting for it to dry and re-covering it...
Do you want functional camo or do you want specific patterns? If it's the former it's so much easier to just mask with dish soap and sponge on any small details. Stencils are a ballache.
Dumb question but do you have a local surplus store? Mine has real surplus woodland fabric rolls about 4' tall as well as other patterns. It's like ~$11-14 per yard depending on whether you get clothing (thin ripstop) or nylon (rubber backed woven nylon) fabric. This is the rubber backed stuff they make pouches out of in pic. Ever think of buying that and tracing it to have the real scale? Online most places charge way more for it and they only have pre cut 1 yard pieces and no availability to get any other length. I mean hell, use some painter's tape to cover the whole piece of fabric (overlap each piece to create a sheet), get a sharp x-acto knife, and use a gentle touch to get you not only a better stencil than online, but one at true scale to actual woodland and in the exact pattern you need as well as having some spare fabric for scrim, patches, or custom gear after your project. Excuse the fur as this is kept with a lot of random taxidermy and sewing junk so fur (fake or real) and dust just collect on it. Tape measures for scale.
Side note: If you do want to buy some fabric to make a stencil with, what quarter of what state do you live in as I might be able to suggest a store that has it. Alternatively, find someone with a cheap projector, connect it to your computer, and project my pic on your gun and draw the lines on in a dark room one side at a time, though for color reference I highly recommend getting a real piece of new-ish M81 clothing as this is nowhere near color corrected: https://youtu.be/XF6pitFdsok?t=152
Is there a way to add a flash hider to something without threading or a flash hider stock.
Add threads?
I suppose that is the only option. Is there a standard that works for both can and flash hiders or are they the same anyways. I've never looked looked into it before.
The easiest thing to do is to find a muzzle device which has external threads. Yes, there is a standard for threads. Pic related.
They're usually the same. But most of the time people will use a flash suppressor that also has an integral mount for the suppressor so it's easy to take the suppressor on and off. You can directly thread the suppressor onto the barrel but that's less common because it's not quick to remove.
Alright boys, I know one of you has done this.
What happens when you screw a grub screw into a JHP cavity, load it pissin hot, and shoot it into gel or a milk jug?
Common sense says you get a shitty HP but I have a box of assorted grub screws and a whole bunch of XTPs and now I'm curious.
I want to make a c7 sbr. Should I use an 11.5 to improve reliability with a carbine gas tube, or is that a meme? Because I'd rather go extra gangster with a 10.5 if I can.
I have a H&R 929 and the one of my grips with the plastic pegs have broken off. I've heard this is a common problem with H&R. Do they make wood grips with brass pegs or something like that?
There is no aftermarket for H&Rs, but they're grips man, that's basic woodworking, no reason you couldnt make them yourself.
That's a .22, right? Just get a set of repro grips and forget about it, or as anon says it's not hard to make your own if that's your thing. Not sure it's worth getting custom work done, which is what you'd need there.
There absolutely is, plus a shitload of takeoff parts.
>That's a .22, right
Yes
Sounds like age then. New repro urethane grips should do the trick for like $20.
Is Ruger ever going to release the Redhawk and Mini 14 in .350 Legend?
That would be the literally perfect loadout if they did.
Cylinder isn't long enough and extraction would be dogshit if it was. Get an M1 and find a .30 carbine Blackhawk, that's as close as you're getting.
No. 45mm oal vs 57mm oal. They're not going to make a new bigger frame just for you. Best bet, get a smith 500, new barrel and custom cylinder, and custom clips as well (CLIPS!). 350 legend mini 14 has more possibility.
Smith already makes a revolver in .350 Legend, but it's massive, holds 8 rounds. I wanted something 6 or even 5 rounds that would be a little more comfortable to carry
Looking for an IWB holster for a Ruger SR9
I usually go kydex but struggling to find one
Anyone used a lockleather holster from urban carry holsters?
I never used LockLeather (despite every third YT AD being for them) but my local holster guy uses those same belt clips that LockLeather does and IMO they're pretty impressive for a slip over spring clip. Never once had it slip off when drawing at the range even on a worn out 1" wide leather belt. Though frankly my pants would stay in place better when drawing if I were using a wider belt probably.
I don’t have a Ruger but I got an IWB for my Steyr at https://www.craftholsters.com/open-muzzle-iwb-holster. Surprisingly comfy.
If armor penetration with sabot is roughly factored by the length of the penetrator what is stopping from longer rods being made?
Nearly every tank is breech loaded so increasing the projectile won't factored that much.
Is it limited by the material strength of the penetrator? Too long and it gets too floppy?
is life better single or just easier
Life is what you make of it.
Life is like a box of chocolates.
I wouldn't touch those chocolates if I were you.
Does G9 Defense ammo really do anything out of the ordinary, or is it just a meme?
Puts holes in things. Probably makes better holes than RN.
Is there some sort of extender (thinking a piece of metal to attach the magnifier to) I can use to bring my magnifier closer to me? The eyebox on it is fricking awful.
>Can't bring it closer to me because I would like to keep my BUIS on there
>Stock is as collapsed as it can get
Responding to myself - I may have to look into designing and 3D printing an extender. what a pain in the ass.
It's just a bad idea all around, in service of something you're unlikely to ever use. Just put your main sight where it needs to be and then put the irons where they fit. They're called "backup" for a reason.
Sight radius?
Backup.
Yeah but backup iron sights should still be as accurate as possible.
Would you rather have the sight you're planning on using made as usable as possible, or the one you're unlikely to ever use? Sight radius isn't even that important for the average piece of shit BUIS, they're not exactly fine target sights.
People shid and fard about them when there's no good reason not to have them positioned optimally. If they continue shidding when there is a reason, they're just monkey see monkey do.
i found something i want to get thats on deguns, but im seeing bad recent reviews on it, good reviews from 5+years ago, and i cant find this anywhere else for a decent price. they still green to buy from? or should i just bite the bullet elsewhere. also no im not talking about the "neo-nazi" shit from reddit, could care less about that.
is there a reloading general.
also is there like an ammo argument general.
I want to get into reloading. I kind of want something based on a common case, but that is hard to get or expensive. So like 6.5 Grendel or 6mm ARC, or 338-06. So then I can find 7.62x39 or 30-06 brass easily. But I also want something easy to make. Any suggestions? Thinking 6mm ARC but no idea how easy it is to make out of 7.62x39 brass
if you are modifying cases it's already going to be more difficult than average because you'll need to adjust case length in almost every situation. I recommend a straight wall case that is reasonably expensive, like .357 magnum because you can load all sorts of pressures into it and all kinds of bullets. that way you have a chance of saving money and can try loads for pussycat plinking loads to full-house hot stuff.
triming cases doesnt look so bad.
There usually is, and it's not hard but I wouldn't count on finding loads of unattended x39 brass.
As anon says .357 mag is good, obviously same dies and components for .38 if that's what you're picking up. 357 SIG is too, because you will find shitloads of .40 brass nobody wants.
>but anon 10mm parent etc etc
Yeah whatever it works fine for non-bubba practice loads. Get some actual recoil to control for the same price as 9x19.
Fuddy five is good too, get a supported chamber and a stronger spring and you can work it up to non-geriatric performance levels without busting into super territory. It's very forgiving unless you go full moron and just start sending double charges.
Kinda want a rifle round with high BC bullets. What about like 7mm-08, 6mm Dasher, or 6mm BR?
So get a press that can take the length and get to that when you more or less know what you're doing. It's not a great place to start is all.
The more I think about it a 357 SIG barrel might be what you want. Gives you a chance to frick up shoulders and neck tension without crying about it.
I do like 357 sig and other higher velocity pistol rounds.
Honestly 357 magnum sounds good too. Would like putting round or pointy bullets in it, which doesnt seem common. Is there any reason 38 Special is commonly available in round nose FMJ but 357 mag doesnt seem to be?
RN zips right through meat like it isn't there, and makes shitey holes in paper. It's not good at much but you can always seat them backwards.
one of my interests is barrier and armor penetration testing. I think trying to get a revolver to excel at penetration would be fun.
What would you choose for helicopter defense.
Lets say must be smaller than 50cal.
Im thinking 338 Lapua. Though something more readily available in semi-auto like an AR10 or M1 Garand could make more sense.
>What would you choose for helicopter defense.
FIM-92 Stinger
>Lets say must be smaller than 50cal.
Oh. Yeah, I think you might be fricked.
>semi-auto
Definitely fricked.
but Rambo was able to disable a helicopter by throwing a rock at it.
Found a P3AT at the gun sto' near me. I'm thinking of skipping it and buying the max, maybe a P32 for something really small. But given it's like 8 ounces, it's still tempting. Thoughts?
Also found a "10th anniversary edition" LCP classic with an awesome trigger for the same price as the max and an ounce lighter, but hear there are lots of FTE issues with those. Anyone own one?
Is the PSA Dagger g2g? I am wanting to get a Glock, but if the dagger is just as good, I don't want to pay for a name brand like a homosexual. I am willing to pay for a Glock brand Glock if it is legitimately better though. Specifically the 19 equivalent.
Glock is better, but if you are seriously worried about a $100 price delta, you aren't going to shoot either enough to notice.
It's more of the principle of the thing than price tbh. If you were going to buy anything and there was a cheaper equivalent that is functionally just as durable, comfortable, effective, etc, would you buy the more expensive one just because it is a name brand? Besides, I like PSA. I think they are a pretty cool and innovative company that deserves to stay in business. At the very least, they don't have "law enforcement only" models which is pretty cringe tbh.
Glock internals are legitimately better. The Dagger trigger shoe may be more comfortable for you (I like it on a large frame gun) but you'd want to knock the pins out and fit it to a Glock bar.
Frame is frame, whichever one fits your hand is the best.
Dagger slides are fine, only down side is cerakote if you consider that a con and they're all cut for 9x19 only, no conversion barrels.
I’m considering different reticle colors for the ACOG
I’ve only ever used the red so far, but I’m thinking about green
my main thinking is that I learned recently that my color-blindness is actually worse for shades of red as opposed to how it is for green
Thoughts on how thay would factor in? I remember a guy on youtube saying that the big difference is that green has the potential to be both way better and way worse than red
In my opinion it's subjective. At least for me the green is the clearest, red is a close second, but yellow is far behind either. I have a buddy who disagrees and swears up and down about the red being the most visible but we both agree the yellow sucks.
What's your environment like my dude. That's the most important thing here.
I’m from the midwest so the vegetation can either be green or brown - and then there are urban environments
I feel like when bright it would be a different green, or I can always just turn it back to black when needed
But I’ve never experienced a green reticle in person
Basically greens then. You're probably better off sticking with red.
Go buy the $20 best sight off Amazon and stick it on a pellet gun or something if you want to find out for yourself.
I want something in .45, but I'm needing suggestions. tbh I like 1911s but not a fan of the capacity and I'm not rich enough for a 2011.
G21SF.
ruger LC Carbine/Charger
Ruger American Pistol?
>tbh I like 1911s but not a fan of the capacity and I'm not rich enough for a 2011.
Problem with capacity being that a double-stack 1911 mag is almost an inch thick, which makes handling the gun very awkward. A 10-round staggered stack is about as big as you can get comfortably. That's gonna be a consistent problem with any .45 you buy.
You can get decent 8-rounders from a lot of manufacturers, they have better springs and followers than the old GI pattern. IME you have to download 1911GI mags to six after a while as the spring fatigues. On the other hand my mad little South Korean 15-round gigglesticks for the 1911 have been quite reliable, even in the carbine. They're just a foot long.
If you wanna cheap out, then a Pinoy 1911 is usually good quality. I've had a Llama Firestar for about 20 years and never had a failure that wasn't clearly the mag's fault. A few parts aren't compatible with "real" 1911s, notably the grip, but it's cheap and it works.
>They're nice to carry, miserable to shoot.
>How so?
>Why shoot rarely
Managing an Airlight's recoil with a defensive load of .357 is like wrestling a python that just swallowed a wasp. Even .38+P is extremely unpleasant without very good form and custom grips. The frame is also a little weaker than a steel gun, so it just can't take a lot of hot loads, even if you wanted to hurt yourself like that. My mom stopped carrying hers even though she loved it because she couldn't consistently keep her third shot in the kill zone. I begged off on buying it from her because I'd literally rather carry a compact .45.
On the other hand if you like revolvers it's very light and it'll take some abuse.
>Managing an Airlight's recoil with a defensive load of .357
the revolvers in question are 38 SPL
>.38+P
I don't even know what that is.
>On the other hand if you like revolvers it's very light and it'll take some abuse.
I already bough the steel one:
>I don't even know what that is.
+P is ammo which is loaded to a slightly hotter spec than standard. In this specific instance it can be thought of as an intermediate step between .38 and .357, though it's closer to .38 than the magnum.
Bought a Mosin and it seems like 1/4 of the rounds fail to fire when I shoot them.The rounds came with the Mosin and they're not old corrosive rounds.
Also should I get rid of the rounds that failed to fire? I have them stored separately from my other rounds. Could they eventually go off since they have been cycled through the rifle before?
can you post the back of the cartridges? might be light primer strikes..
These came from a box of that Century Arms Red Army Standard. None of them fired.
Are they a hazard?
no, not really. those look like light primer strikes. you probably have your firing pin adjusted too short.
Oh ok thanks anon. Assuming I get the firing pin adjusted correctly, the rounds should still be usable? And they shouldn't just go off one of these days while in my storage?
nah, the stuff in the back either goes off or not. at this point they are safe. just load them back up the next time you are at the range.
I'm looking at buying one of two revolvers and one says "AIRWEIGHT 38 SPL. CTG" on the right side of the barrel, while the other says ".38 S&W SPL" and I can't really see any other major differences between the two.
What the hell is an airweight?
the town theyre located in; does it begin with a B
One of them might be. I'm looking at them online, not in person.
>aluminum frame, and the other has a steel frame
Oh.
>They're nice to carry, miserable to shoot.
How so?
>Get the airweight if you plan to carry it a lot and shoot it rarely.
Why "shoot it rarely"?
>They're nice to carry, miserable to shoot.
guessing since its so light, there is less mass to absorb the recoil
Bingo
Also, whichever one you get, buy a Hogue Bantam grip if you plan on carrying it and a normal Hogue Overmold if it is just a range toy. It makes the recoil feel less sharp and allows you to use speed loaders. I am a big revolvergay and actually EDC a J frame. Pic related.
if i want one of these shrouded hammers, what should I be looking for as far as models or search terms or whatever. Not original anon who asked, but theres also 2 S&W near me that look like yours, but the hammers seem completely enclosed
I bit the bullet already and bought this dirty old Model 10. It was pretty much just a choice between the steel one and an airweight, so I went with steel.
Model 638 if you want one that's still being made and/or an Aluminum Frame 38 Special. Model 49 or 649 are the steel frame shrouded hammer version that may or may not be in 357 magnum. The 49/649 aren't being made anymore and it makes me extremely sad.
642 or 442 is the hammerless J frame model. 638 is the only shrouded hammer revolver that's still being made by Smith. 637 is the Normal hammer J Frame.
All of these are the Aluminum frame versions.
The steel frame versions are the model 640 for hammerless, 49 or 649 for shrouded, and 60 for full hammer.
If they had made the "Ultimate Carry" on the 638 frame instead of the 642 frame, I would own a 32H&R and a 38 Special version right now. The humpback J frames are the best J frames!
from the brief research I have just done, I believe the air-weight has an aluminum frame, and the other has a steel frame
>airweight
It's S&W's branding for a super light alloy (Scandium) frame. They're nice to carry, miserable to shoot.
Pick them up and you'll see the difference. Get the airweight if you plan to carry it a lot and shoot it rarely.
first rifle. do i go for a aug or zenitclone ak. i like the look of both. no clone stocks for ak yet. guess i can use an ar stock adapter.
I would go STANAG AUG. Assuming you're in the US pmags are everywhere and you will want at least a cheap AR hanging around at some point even if you despise them.
>Why "shoot it rarely
Because it's not a fun experience and the frames aren't as durable. If you handload powder puffs you can disregard that, but evidence suggests you don't.
leaning towards aug. the clone dust cover has knex holes in it? that was like the best part
i have a kp104 but itd take about 1000 to turn it into that. the holes in the bw33 connecting piece is madness. but im still tempted.
an an aug is 1500. but the new ones prob gon be 2000.
i should get both.
38 special is such a useless caliber. get a 9mm. its more powerful and way less expensive. and yes i mean get a 9mm revolver if you love that old outdated tech.
why's sony so shit
are police scanners still a thing. I want to record police activities. I dont have like an agenda or anything. They just tend to be involved in interesting stuff thats worth documenting.
Also interested in scanners for fire departments, paramedics, etc
Not really, anyone serious is using trunked these days.
https://www.broadcastify.com/listen/
pretty cool, thanks,
when I said I wanted to record too I meant actually drive out wherever they are with a video camera. I was listening to that link and heard some locations announced.
>They just tend to be involved in interesting stuff thats worth documenting.
My boomer father was into this shit in the 90's. 99.999% of it is dumb bullshit. I have no idea if they use scanners anymore but I can tell you that not much of it is interesting.
So I saw someone say that the gen 5 glocks in 40s&w was use a 45 caliber slide. Is that true and if so why would they do that?
It's called "talking out of your arse" and they do it because they're not smart.
Can steve speak chinese or is he just translating these of screen and then reading them out for the video?
Is carrying a vz61 moronic? I have a parts kit I've been wanting to finish for months, but still haven't gotten a receiver for it. Trying to justify getting it done
It'd be pretty moronic on a number of levels.
i just got my first edc & cc pistols and want to train as much as possible with them. does it make more sense to train 99% of the time with range ammo and carry with defense ammo? obviously range ammo being 1/2 the price of defensive.. but then when i actually need to fire the gun, it may not necessarily react like i'd trained
So long as you put enough of your carry ammo through that you know it feeds and you use range ammo that shoots to same POI in that gun you're good.
How do I properly measure for body armor? tbh I think im just gonna buy small plates since I'm fricking 5'1 tall, but might as well ask
You look on the internet, and then decide that armour is a waste of money since for you death is a mercy.
It's joever
You should spec into tunnel fighting, someone's going to have to get those israelites out.
I always thought I'd be a great tunnel rat
bump; ignore as I need to link an image to a thread that hit img limit
Hello everyone. I'm about to move out on my own for the first time. I've been avoiding buying a safe so I don't have to deal with moving it, but now that I'll be in my own place I really need one. Any recommendations on manufacturers? I've heard about some manufacturers handing your safe code over to the feds if they ask nicely.
>some manufacturers
They all will.
Gun safes are not real safes. Unless you have some very nice shotguns or machine guns (in which case you will want a real safe) you're just keeping casuals out of your shit. Do not overspend.
I have no affiliation with either of these, but they are both good resources for learning:
Gunsafereviewsguy.com
The fact is that 95% of "gun safes" are not real safes in the legal sense. Most of them don't even have a UL safety rating at all. Of those that do, most are rated "RSC level 1". That means "residential security container". The level 1 rating means it's been tested to keep out 1 guy for 5 minutes with the tools on the left side of picrel. A handful of gun safes are rated RSC level II. That is a much better rating, which means it's tested for 2 guys with the tools on the right of the pic for 10 minutes. Real-deal safe ratings are called "TL", like TL-15, TL-30, etc. Hardly any gun safes meet those ratings, and they cost many thousands.
>handing your safe combo over
you can change combos on safes anon. You can change locks too. If you're worried about this happening you can change the codes yourself. Nevermind the fact it's moronic to buy a safe with an electronic lock anyway. What are you going to do when you need to get in the safe NOW and the battery is dead? What about when you fumble the combination under stress and it decides to lock you out for security purposes? Electronic safe locks are universally shitty. Get a mechanical lock, change the combo so nobody else knows it.
Used safes are a great idea, real-deal ones are constantly going on sale when businesses go under. Find one at a bankruptcy auction in your area, have a local locksmith move it, service it, and change the combo for you.
Does anyone know if the new Gemtech 556 can (the Abyss) is (a) any good and (b) compatible with GSL bi lock system?
was the charging handle on the ar inspired by the lawn mower? stoner managed to incorporate the ultimate boomer design
Was this post inspired by a homosexual?
To be fair Stoner wanted it on the top, which is a much better place for a CH.
Funny thing for a rear charging enthusiast to say.
I need books for engineer battalions
What was that one ultra autist israeliteTube channel that did all those cool AK, MG42, and CZ75 parts kit builds? Dude was also a big weeb and had a collection of all the Gunsmith Cats manga's and also did a lot of Milsim stuff.
I can't for the life of me remember the name.
Why dont guns use screws for adjustable gas blocks? I had to make this from scratch to get my AUG to run reliably with my suppressor. The factory gas plug and the suppressor gas plug both just use a series of holes for different discrete gas settings. Why don't guns just use a screw for this instead, to allow for fine adjustment? It works perfectly fine for me
Unless I am not understanding you many adjustable gas blocks do. Kind of sucks. Pic related.
>fine adjustment
In the case of the AUG it's because it's a combat rifle. You don't want to be c**ting around with a screw, you want to whack it over to "adverse" and continue shooting ASAP.
Beretta 92FS or Mossberg 590 for home defense? And which ammo would you keep loaded in it?