Huh, I thought this thread had died. Thanks for saving it, I guess.
I've never seen any 3d printing gays make molds and cast parts, is there a good reason not to?
There are people working on it. Mainly they are working on getting parts consistently of the same dimensions because with the current methods you dont get the exact same size.
Sorry op, only russo-ukranian threads are allowed
OP here, I have made plenty of russo ukrainian threads because the war is the most interesting weapon related thing to happen in decades, so instead of being a homosexual you can try to enjoy things, and make threads of your own to talk about things that you want talked about.
>the most interesting weapon related thing to happen in decades
It would be interesting if 3/4 of the threads weren't the equivalent of hearing a random stranger have an episode of explosive diarrhoea in a public bathroom along with there being +20 threads about the shit.
It's should be limited to a certain amount of threads or kept in one general to prevent shit flooding.
No, anon, this is legit like building a frame out of papier mache, this isn't a matter of anything but material strength and photoresin is nowhere near capable of what you're going to attempt.
Sls (selective laser sintering) is nylon powder not photo resin. They are 100% solid structural parts I already use in industrial machines. You might be confusing it with dlp or sla printing.
Oh frick, my bad. Now I feel a fool. Well, if nylon can work out there, that might be a good idea. You have any resources for functional printing examples?
https://i.imgur.com/bZW3QzY.jpg
Going to start on a new project today. Modifying this bad boy for belt feed
But why?
1 year ago
Anonymous
Well if you watch stuff made here he uses sls parts in all of his builds. But also bond tech uses it for all their extruders and I've never had a problem with it breaking
1 year ago
Anonymous
New challenge. I might mock up the 9mm links and pawl on some sch40 pipe to see how it goes first. either way, It should be fun
Oh frick, my bad. Now I feel a fool. Well, if nylon can work out there, that might be a good idea. You have any resources for functional printing examples?
[...]
But why?
There are pricier options. I mean you would've spent that kind of cash on a semi-full auto, why not spend it on an industrial grade manufacturing machine for parts that might need to be metal?
I read your post on Nylon, still just trying to be helpful.
T. American.
I was just reading that some company came out with metal filament that can be used in regular printers.
1 year ago
Anonymous
yeah it's metal particles in plastic. you burn off the plastic in a kiln and then sinter the part together and get a metal part. it warps and deforms due to the fact that the plastic burns off. it is interesting, regardless.
I just used mine to print a vz.61 receiver in castable resin, does that count? I cast it in zamak and aside from a single cosmetic flaw it worked perfectly
If you make a 22lr firearm with a threaded barrel and a suppressor to accompany it I promise it will be quiet enough that nobody will suspect anything for a shot or two if you use subsonic ammo.
1 year ago
Anonymous
We'll see, first I'll have to actually build the machine (around 3000 euros)
What model did you use? I know there was that ancient one floating around for years that used the og vz61 FCG and the more recent CZAR from DD that uses an AR FCG. What kind of process did you use for casting?
I made my own copy based off the schematics and taking measurements off a cut receiver. It is not quite ready for public release unfortunately. I don't want to release it until it is perfect. It is 95% of the way there and I will post it here when it is done. Unfortunately I am not an SOT so it is semi-auto but someone with the ability to make post samples could easily modify the model.
The casting process I am using is printing it in castable resin and then using R&R plasticast in a loaf pan that is the perfect size for the receiver. My vacuum chamber is not quite big enough to fit the mold after pouring but I have had decent results with vibrating it, I may purchase a larger one to fix this. I then place it in my kiln for the burnout as you would any other wax casting. I am casting using zamak 12 currently but also have zamak 5. The weird lines you see in the picture are to aid with the casting process and are removed afterword - the thin areas have needed some help to get the metal in there. If I had a larger vacuum chamber I am sure I could remove most of these.
I get fairly accurate results that are dimensionally close enough to not need machining beyond drilling out the pin holes etc. The rough finish in this photograph is highly exaggerated by the flash, but this is with no clean up or polishing at all. I also cast with the mold at 500 to try and get the metal to flow into the small spaced with greatly effected the finish. But the casting has no porosity and it is solid enough that I trust it to not break. I am refining the model and my process currently but I am very close to a good end product. If I buy the larger vacuum chamber I am certain it would look much better. I don't get lots of time to work on this stuff so I have been delaying.
Don't be so discouraging - casting can work if you buy/build the proper equipment. The bad results I am seeing are always caused by people trying to shortcut the process. You just can't do that, it needs to be done properly.
For anyone interested I will be casting another this weekend and will post results if the thread is still around in a couple days.
Noice >buy the larger vacuum chamber
Saw a thread on diy the other day about how to build one on the cheap. Thing it was in a thread about israeliteellery.
Looks good anon.
But my point is that for example you still need the factory stamped steel upper and the bolt. Casting would be a way to unlock progress - we can already print the lower, casting can get you a stronger product but that's the upgrade to a solved problem. Right now the problems are bolts, specifically locking ones, and attaching barrels to receivers.
Casting barrel sleeves to decrease heat damage to a printed receiver is probably the next step. But I don't see core parts being cast in the future FGC-5.56 or 7.62
Dream bigger. New designs are the way around these problems, ones that use readily available materials and simplified designs. Why must the entire product be cast? Simply design bolts that can be made with bar stock a cheap drill press and some printed jigs. If the caliber is kept reasonable then the barrel can simply be threaded and pinned to a cast receiver, or a simple trunnion could be designed to be made with the drill press as above that is then attached to the casting.
1 year ago
Anonymous
I'm not proposing that the entire thing has to be cast, the issue is that we have types of parts that can be done through expedient means and those that can't.
Bar stock is what the FGC-9 uses. Like I said, there's solved problems. What problem hasn't been solved yet that casting could solve?
The Amigo Grande uses a clamshell to hold the trunnion, and bolts lock it into the printed receiver. So again, solved problems. We don't need to cast a receiver when we can print it, and bolt barrels/sleeves of some sort to threaded inserts.
So to answer to anon's
I've never seen any 3d printing gays make molds and cast parts, is there a good reason not to?
question of why 3d print gays are rarely seen casting stuff - they either buy factory parts or use bar stock/tubing to make parts. Anything they need that could be cast they're using commercially available steel and hacking and drilling it into shape, anything that could be printed they print instead of casting. This isn't to say casting is a fruitless endeavor, but it's a side road that doesn't move the 3d printing movement forward - at least right now.
1 year ago
Anonymous
The heat and durability continues to be and always will be a problem for these PLA designs. This is not a solved problem at all. When someone in Arizona can leave the printed gun in their car in the summer and then take it out and mag dump a half dozen magazines with no worry that is the point I would consider these problems solved.
1 year ago
Anonymous
To add, these are still useful firearms. But they are not perfect. And for many applications they are unsuitable. We should strive towards designs that have no limitations. Not intending to be overly negative.
1 year ago
Anonymous
The heat and durability continues to be and always will be a problem for these PLA designs. This is not a solved problem at all. When someone in Arizona can leave the printed gun in their car in the summer and then take it out and mag dump a half dozen magazines with no worry that is the point I would consider these problems solved.
If you are that committed to that particular performance metric just make a high temp printer and make it out of high temp engineering material.
1 year ago
Anonymous
That is very expensive, I thought the goal is affordable homemade firearms that can be made anywhere. I am not advocating for expensive set-ups like my own, designs that use traditional sand casting would be ideal. The mold patterns for a receiver could be printed easily and then cast with minimal post processing work if the design was intended for it. Same for fire control groups etc.
1 year ago
Anonymous
That is very expensive, I thought the goal is affordable homemade firearms that can be made anywhere. I am not advocating for expensive set-ups like my own, designs that use traditional sand casting would be ideal. The mold patterns for a receiver could be printed easily and then cast with minimal post processing work if the design was intended for it. Same for fire control groups etc.
What about high temperature thermoset composites, cast in silicone molds and cured in a bomb vessel? You could make the mold positives from almost anything, even a chunk of soap would work.
1 year ago
Anonymous
I would love to see development in this area. It is something I have thought about before. I really think that people are too focused on directly printing parts because it is quicker and easier when the focus should be on stuff like you suggest or as
Have heard that the best use for 3d printing is for making jigs but i haven't seen any posted.
said.
1 year ago
Anonymous
Previously I have seen a grip cast in resin for a revolver by someone here and a ks-23 foreend by Kjaskaar
1 year ago
Anonymous
I plan on doing this in the future and it's going to potentially make some people upset.
Got called a lot of names for saying that very idea to the fosscad/fgc9 guys.
They have their heads way too far up their own asses for guys that only improved upon an existing design.
I have only heard bad things about those people so anyhow so don't feel bad about it.
Post some jigs tho. I'm not even sure what jigs mean but i imagine it's like a form shape type of thing that you can shape metal against.
1 year ago
Anonymous
>I plan on doing this in the future and it's going to potentially make some people upset.
That means it's worth doing
>Post some jigs tho
There's a few examples here: https://defcad.com/search/?q=JIG&order=recent
1 year ago
Anonymous
There's some interesting ones on there. I'm not really a fan of defcad though since they limit who can download their files.
1 year ago
Anonymous
My reference to heat issues is 3D Print General's event where laying a FGC-9 on a table that was under the sunlight in Texas caused parts to deform under spring pressure. He fixed it by changing filament material.
One could use metal (in commercially available forms) for better heat dissipation and maybe even as bracing for parts that could deform under spring pressure. Or heat resistant epoxies.
Right now, the only major potential use for casting I see are gas blocks and barrel sleeves.
1 year ago
Anonymous
The issue is that there is strong materials that DO come close to something made just as a cast one, but it is VERY expensive material, that also needs a well controlled environment, and high end parts even tend to wear out altogether when printing. A 1Kg of PEEK or PEKK which are one of the most resistant superpolymers out there costs $750 alone, and as for Nylon and Polycarbonate filaments, they cost around $120 a Kilo but maintenance and printing of them alone is a mayor b***h, they gather moisture severely quick, which basically is a print killer.
1 year ago
Anonymous
Look at the Urutau it is like the evolution of the FGC9.
1 year ago
Anonymous
the urutau looks unbelievably sexy from what I've seen of the beta
I'm a little tempted to join when I'm on break from uni
1 year ago
Anonymous
Is this all made of just polymer or anything sturdier?
1 year ago
Anonymous
Sirayatech Cast True Blue. I have some better stuff for israeliteelry but this has been perfectly adequate for the receiver and it burns out very clean. The only problem is that it is sort of fragile and needs heavy supports for a model this size. The bed adhesion can be an issue but I sanded my build plate with 200 grit and it has been fine.
Mad respect. The other models I've seen online lack dimensional accuracy or are only geared toward using AR15 FCG's etc. If someone was dead set on printing a VZ receiver SLA seems to be the better option for thinner walls without compromising strength
Unfortunately all the resins I have used are very brittle. I am interested in the expensive engineering resins but I am not going to put money into them at this point. I saw one that claims to be PEEK-like but the cost of these resins is prohibitive for me to just test them out.
How you are casting zamak? is that spinning wheel thing or it is like sand casting?
I am plaster casting using the same process as lost wax for israeliteelry it and will be using a vacuum chamber in the not too distant future. The one I have is too small for the mold. I don't get consistent results without it unfortunately so it seems to be a requirement because of the thin walls. Sometimes it works sometimes it doesn't.
1 year ago
Anonymous
I was watching some ceramic casting the other day and he cast at really high mold temperatures. Do you pour metal in ambient temperature? it can be one of the cause of the problems since the metal will cool of pretty quickly and mess with the flow inside the mold.
1 year ago
Anonymous
Do you pour metal in a ambient temperature mold.*
1 year ago
Anonymous
depends on the metal, I think lead's ok to do that way because it melts so low, but I read a thing from someone who made silver bullets, and 2000 degrees melting point meant the funnel and mold needed to be 800 I think, just to keep the silver from freezing in the funnel. Lead melts at 800 iirc.
1 year ago
Anonymous
Yeah i get it.
Maybe if you put the mold in the oven at 400 it will get better definition.
1 year ago
Anonymous
And i saw the guy pouring cast iron the ceramic moulds were glowing
1 year ago
Anonymous
Do you pour metal in a ambient temperature mold.*
>depends on the metal, I think lead's ok to do that way because it melts so low
Technically yes, but if you're going for good detail, even in silicone, you really want a hot mold. Also, it's best practice to push pretty much anything you're casting in over 250°F to drive condensation out of the mold. Otherwise you can get blow-ups when it hits bubbles of water. In the best case you get micro-voids and worst-case it blows metal back up out of the funnel. >t. garage caster who does lead and pewter minis, bullets, and some basic brass work
1 year ago
Anonymous
My last cast was at a slightly higher temp around 500f as an experiment to see if it would help fill the thin spots, it worked but the surface finish was not very good if you look at the picture up somewhere in the thread. This is an area I am still experimenting with and as I will be using a vacuum next attempt I will not need to have the mold this hot.
And i saw the guy pouring cast iron the ceramic moulds were glowing
If I assume the general rule used in israeliteelry of 1000 degrees below pouring temp applies to cast iron then the mold would have been at somewhere around 1500f. Just a guess
What model did you use? I know there was that ancient one floating around for years that used the og vz61 FCG and the more recent CZAR from DD that uses an AR FCG. What kind of process did you use for casting?
Interesting, would have never ever found this in a million years. What have you made thus far with it? The image on their site looks pretty small, is it decent sized? >1099 for 1km of spool
That's just funny to me.
You could buy a Prusa, but they're a bit overpriced for the feature set (although quite reliable). Go for it if you want to spend the money, if not, Ender 3 is the answer. Go to the PrepHole thread on 3D-printing if you need support.
I've never seen any 3d printing gays make molds and cast parts, is there a good reason not to?
Investment casting 3D-printed parts can be quite tricky: casting is more art than science in a lot of ways. I'm currently doing some workshops at a casting place to get a hang of things, but not for gunrelated stuff, because, y'know, guns scary.
>Investment casting 3D-printed parts can be quite tricky
Fortunately the math behind sorting out vents and pour channels isn't that bad. Look up a copy of Manufacturing Processes for Engineering Materials by Kalpakjian and Schmid
>DIY
Forgot about that board, I'll go lurk. >Ender 3
I know they're cheap and pretty much the standard but I'm looking to have something which can be used for much high quality or advanced prints without concern. like I said, I'll go lurk DIY though. Thanks
Bruh what, prusa is like, the original. First consumer tier 3D printer.
Simply never heard of them. The shilling has always been crealty and ender.
If you want high quality prints that will mostly will be determined by the material you use. For a beginner is better to get something like an Ender 3 V2 (theres a NEO version now) or something like the Biqu B1, its kinda of a better, more modern Ender 3 but it's not from Creality, otherwise you can get a Creality S1 which has a direct drive style extrusion and its super easy to assemble, but you wont be able to print superfast like a bowden style extruder, yet I doubt you will do that anyways.
As for materials, eSun PLA+ is what I would recommend hands down for /k/ related stuff, dont buy Creality PLA, it sucks and eSun usually cheaper too. TPU which is a flexible material, if you find it from Creality, you can go ahead, Creality TPU is actually pretty decent.
For high end resistant materials, you can get either ABS/ABS+ which is great, but its a pain in the ass to print since its VERY prone to temperature change, so you most likely would have to build an enclosure for your printer to keep it all warm, otherwise the print will deform with just room temperature due of material retraction. PETG is basically the better version of ABS since its just as resistant but its kinda similar to PLA+ but just needs the higher temperature to print, but its not very affected by temperature and material retraction, so for parts that have a lot of stress, this material really comes in handy.
The problem for entry level printers is that you most likely will have to replace the heat brake with a high quality one made of titanium, yet doing that modification is actually pretty easy, if you get it for a new printer that you haven't even used, its even easier.
Still most /k/ stuff that has been 3d printed just uses PLA+ and it works almost flawlessly if there was no printing issues, besides PLA+ is much more available to buy and more cost effective if you buy in bulks.
Check out CHEP's Filament Friday channel, that helped me a lot, and if you have a Creality its a godsend
dont the printers inform the feds if you are priting gun stuff or is that just my shizo mind?
like they are connected to the internet or whatever and be like "hold on, that's a ... oh. My. Satan... a GHOST GUN(tm)" and sends that to the atf who comes and kills my dog (her name is aika)
>is that just my shizo mind?
it is. The printer itself is already not connected to the internet, the only thing that could rat on you is the slicer program which you use on your pc, but that is also not connected to the internet, its also open source. But if you want you could just use your slicer with your PCs internet connection disabled. The only thing left is where you get the files, so if you download them from a fed site I guess they would know its you. So just download it from the gatalog or print2a and you will be fine.
>autodesk
Thats a CAD so it wouldnt affect you unless you are designing anything, but yes definitely wouldnt use anything cloud based. But there are free and open source CADs like FreeCAD. Personally the only thing I`ve ever designed is an ergonomic charging handle so I used tinkercad.
Autodesk makes many different programs. Inventor and fusion would be relevant for 3d modeling and making stl files. Fusion is cloud based, inventor is not but I do have to sign in to my account to open it. I've never tried to shut off wifi after opening inventor so I can't say if it's necessarily safer. Sketchup is another free option for modeling that should not require internet connectivity.
Sketchup is usable but i felt like it was pretty janky, the one file I made with it ended up having weird extrusions coming out of it when sent to the printer software.
Pic related, basepad extension for m&p 9mm 10 round cuckmags, doesn't add capacity bit ads length and could be modified to add weight bases etc.
1 year ago
Anonymous
Printed the one on the left, yes it's "painted" with a sharpie as the guy who printed it for me used white filament.
1 year ago
Anonymous
Agreed. My brother uses sketchup for lots of different projects and occasionally has similar issues if lines are not connected where they should be, not sure if that's a constraint issue or what, but I never have. I have inventor through work and prefer that. Fusion is similar but has worse ui in my opinion. Since inventor does not use the cloud for storage I would think it has better opsec and considering it's used by large companies for potentially patented products I would think it's safe but really don't trust anything that connects to the internet to be completely so.
1 year ago
Anonymous
>inventor
I might check that out, thanks.
1 year ago
Anonymous
>Sketchup is usable but i felt like it was pretty janky, the one file I made with it ended up having weird extrusions coming out of it when sent to the printer software.
Delete a wall from your model or bring the camera inside the model and see if there's something strange inside. Sketchup tends to create a ton of internal geometry that shouldn't be there or makes walls disappear or flip (white outside, blue/grey internal) and it fricks with printer programs. Right click any walls that are flipped the wrong way and it'll have an option to flip them back; I forget what it's called. Also get yourself an old version of it from before google sold it off, the one you can download. I love sketchup for the fact that you can change every last edge and point but it's a little fiddly and missing features in some areas.
1 year ago
Anonymous
I thought I had gone in and fixed the geometry at the time, but maybe not. I'm not a complete moron when it comes to 3d work, but I'm no picasso.
I think the sketchup version I have might be an old one, I dunno. I downloaded it years ago and it sat on my pc unused, it ran an update before I could use it which I think changed it to stylebuilder or some bullshit, I think there's two versions.
I think having used something like Cinema4D in the past, sketchup was like learning how to draw on walls with crayons again.
>I've never seen any 3d printing gays make molds and cast parts, is there a good reason not to?
Casting is hard and imprecise; casting metals that melt at high temperatures even more so. It's also dangerous. The easiest way is to cast a "close enough" part and then machine it into tolerance. Which does not solve the "just machine it bro" problem, nor give us interchangeable parts because everything is hand-fitted.
It >is< an awesome way to get a brass FGC-9, however, provided you're willing to do some lightening cuts. >but that''s heav-- >why the frick woul--
shut up, it looks good.
There's a cast aluminum 10/22 receiver from a lost investment PLA mold from the FOSSCAD days.
Let me break it down, most 3d printing guys fall in one of three main categories:
- People who want unserialized firearms as a protest/tee hee at the ATF, who can just focus on the lower/frame (they buy the rest)
- People who like to have custom guns that look unique/sci-fi (print a shell around existing commercial firearms parts)
- Legitimate "I have to make this shit inside an European commie block/Asian megacity" conditions that require the use of simplified tools and easy to codify instructions.
The latter rely on standardized tubing/rods for consistency, a little bit of dremel and ECM, hand saws, at most a bench drill press and the cheapest welder you can find. Even the FCG-9 has been forked into "weldless bolt" variations just to skip the welder.
If you get into casting, you'll see on youtube that there's entire channels dedicated to troubleshooting molds. Contraction during cooling, the velocity of the liquid flow and turbulence during the transition from liquid to solid, surface finish, etc.
The vast majority of metals you can cast "at home" (and homes differ quite a bit) are not that great. IvanTheTroll recently got sheets of 4140 or 4150 laser cut to make a DIY glock slide, where the "locking lug" meets the top of the barrel, and after not many shots the steel was already getting peened. Some Zamak alloys are HiPoint tier and thus usable for firearms, but let's face it you're not getting the best casting and cooling/heat treatment from an empty soup can, plaster of paris and your mom's oven. Still, I'd probably design such a cast around a good grade of steel and attempt to heat treat it to avoid the Zamak from getting beat up and cracking. Yeah there's DIY microforges guides on youtube to bring small knifes to quenching temp. Motherfrickers are designing FGC-9s in a way that skips buying a welder, but you want them to cast and heat treat? Hmmm.
https://i.imgur.com/FuCTL74.jpg
Other than the material itself, you still have the issue of casting most likely requiring post-processing. Casting may not be accurate to the final dimension, cast may not have the necessary quality, a quality cast will have a rough surface from your 3d printing layer lines. If you're going to have to machine to final dimensions, you may as well have started from billet.
3d printed dies and a table vise can bend 1-3mm sheet steel. A router and a 3d printed jig can act as a poor man's mill. Sure, the complexity increases if you include these kinds of techniques to make pressure bearing parts for a 3d printed design, but I'd still say it's less complex than casting - and it would be more consistent in terms of getting others to replicate.
I get fairly accurate results that are dimensionally close enough to not need machining beyond drilling out the pin holes etc. The rough finish in this photograph is highly exaggerated by the flash, but this is with no clean up or polishing at all. I also cast with the mold at 500 to try and get the metal to flow into the small spaced with greatly effected the finish. But the casting has no porosity and it is solid enough that I trust it to not break. I am refining the model and my process currently but I am very close to a good end product. If I buy the larger vacuum chamber I am certain it would look much better. I don't get lots of time to work on this stuff so I have been delaying.
Don't be so discouraging - casting can work if you buy/build the proper equipment. The bad results I am seeing are always caused by people trying to shortcut the process. You just can't do that, it needs to be done properly.
For anyone interested I will be casting another this weekend and will post results if the thread is still around in a couple days.
Looks good anon.
But my point is that for example you still need the factory stamped steel upper and the bolt. Casting would be a way to unlock progress - we can already print the lower, casting can get you a stronger product but that's the upgrade to a solved problem. Right now the problems are bolts, specifically locking ones, and attaching barrels to receivers.
Casting barrel sleeves to decrease heat damage to a printed receiver is probably the next step. But I don't see core parts being cast in the future FGC-5.56 or 7.62
If you need stamping is easier to make a 3dprinted tool for that. Adapt a car jack or buy a cheap press idk. I saw as low as 80bucks a 15ton press but that was a year ago.
The point isn't that the upper is stamped, just that it was stamped at a proper factory. If a cast lower was attached to a DIY stamped upper I'd question why not stamp the lower at that point - but at least it would be neat.
Making a cast lower for kits that depend on factory parts is kind of a novelty while others are trying to remove dependency from "gun" parts. And progress is slow because not a lot of people are willing to participate in fully DIY betas (they require more work than just buying kits) meaning small number of autists have to spend their free time and money on prototyping and testing.
Lo and behold, almost every time 3d printing is mentioned someone is like "I don't get why 3d printing gays simply don't do more casting?". They're already >doing it for free when it comes to working towards 3d printable designs and people expect them to release a set of instructions to handle molten metal at home. So to those who cast, more power to them. I just don't think casting lowers is progress when people like Hoffman are trying to solve the problem of attaching a barrel and gas system to a printed upper and not have it sag after heating up.
>Don't be so discouraging - casting can work if you buy/build the proper equipment.
I mean, yes, it can. It's also a completely different skillset that requires a lot of work and practice to avoid voids, micro-cracking, and generally getting things to tolerances safely and efficiently. It took me months to get to the point where I was reliably casting small parts in my garage, and was good enough to pick out a bad one before I seriously tested it. I'm not gonna suggest it as a shortcut to someone who just needs a gun, now. If you cast things in a way that's cheap, relatively safe, and easy to achieve for a novice they're gonna need a third skillset to finish, rather than ones that make the design easier or safer to build. And I don't want to add another pile of equipment to the list if it's not necessary.
For stuff like your use-case of resurrecting a gun with a torched receiver that you can spend time on casting with safe dimensions, dressing and prepping, it's a great idea. Especially since you clearly have the experience. Likewise, simple stuff where you mostly just need a block of metal and you can finish them with a drill press and jig (bolt weights, gas blocks, etc) are gonna be fine for newbies. I'm just leery of going past that when the goal is making a weapon with the least possible bullshit quotient.
Got called a lot of names for saying that very idea to the fosscad/fgc9 guys.
Any man who shits on a way to make jigs quickly and precisely is a fricking fool.
>For anyone interested I will be casting another this weekend and will post results if the thread is still around in a couple days
If you take enough pictures it'd deserve its own thread.
There's a cast aluminum 10/22 receiver from a lost investment PLA mold from the FOSSCAD days.
Let me break it down, most 3d printing guys fall in one of three main categories:
- People who want unserialized firearms as a protest/tee hee at the ATF, who can just focus on the lower/frame (they buy the rest)
- People who like to have custom guns that look unique/sci-fi (print a shell around existing commercial firearms parts)
- Legitimate "I have to make this shit inside an European commie block/Asian megacity" conditions that require the use of simplified tools and easy to codify instructions.
The latter rely on standardized tubing/rods for consistency, a little bit of dremel and ECM, hand saws, at most a bench drill press and the cheapest welder you can find. Even the FCG-9 has been forked into "weldless bolt" variations just to skip the welder.
If you get into casting, you'll see on youtube that there's entire channels dedicated to troubleshooting molds. Contraction during cooling, the velocity of the liquid flow and turbulence during the transition from liquid to solid, surface finish, etc.
The vast majority of metals you can cast "at home" (and homes differ quite a bit) are not that great. IvanTheTroll recently got sheets of 4140 or 4150 laser cut to make a DIY glock slide, where the "locking lug" meets the top of the barrel, and after not many shots the steel was already getting peened. Some Zamak alloys are HiPoint tier and thus usable for firearms, but let's face it you're not getting the best casting and cooling/heat treatment from an empty soup can, plaster of paris and your mom's oven. Still, I'd probably design such a cast around a good grade of steel and attempt to heat treat it to avoid the Zamak from getting beat up and cracking. Yeah there's DIY microforges guides on youtube to bring small knifes to quenching temp. Motherfrickers are designing FGC-9s in a way that skips buying a welder, but you want them to cast and heat treat? Hmmm.
Other than the material itself, you still have the issue of casting most likely requiring post-processing. Casting may not be accurate to the final dimension, cast may not have the necessary quality, a quality cast will have a rough surface from your 3d printing layer lines. If you're going to have to machine to final dimensions, you may as well have started from billet.
3d printed dies and a table vise can bend 1-3mm sheet steel. A router and a 3d printed jig can act as a poor man's mill. Sure, the complexity increases if you include these kinds of techniques to make pressure bearing parts for a 3d printed design, but I'd still say it's less complex than casting - and it would be more consistent in terms of getting others to replicate.
Well 12 gauge and 50 cals are compatible everyone knows that, you can fire a 50BMG from a shotgun (dont). Maybe you can try feeding it into an M2 if you have one lying around.
A belt-feed system for shotguns would be ungodly based. Tubes have practical length limits that hinder capacity, box mags get finnicky past 5-10 rounds, and drums are a bulky and expensive nightmare that can fail easily, but a belt? If you give it a beefy feed system only the glorious Murder Cube knows how many rounds you could sling underneath in a belt box, for MAXIMUM DAKKA!
Shells do however pose a problem for belt feed mechanisms, for one you're going to have to use a pull-feed to strip rimmed rounds which doesnt seem easy to DIY (a lot of fine tuning of the metallurgy is required in parts like the feed claw, and there's a lot of precise camming surfaces) and you'll also have to make sure your feed mechanism doesnt severely dent or deform the plastic shells.
Well 12 gauge and 50 cals are compatible everyone knows that, you can fire a 50BMG from a shotgun (dont). Maybe you can try feeding it into an M2 if you have one lying around.
A belt-feed system for shotguns would be ungodly based. Tubes have practical length limits that hinder capacity, box mags get finnicky past 5-10 rounds, and drums are a bulky and expensive nightmare that can fail easily, but a belt? If you give it a beefy feed system only the glorious Murder Cube knows how many rounds you could sling underneath in a belt box, for MAXIMUM DAKKA!
Shells do however pose a problem for belt feed mechanisms, for one you're going to have to use a pull-feed to strip rimmed rounds which doesnt seem easy to DIY (a lot of fine tuning of the metallurgy is required in parts like the feed claw, and there's a lot of precise camming surfaces) and you'll also have to make sure your feed mechanism doesnt severely dent or deform the plastic shells.
I've seen an image of a beltfed shotgun on here before
Firearms with a bore over .50 are by default "destructive devices" regulated under the NFA.
There's an exception for shotguns found "generally recognized as particularly suitable for sporting purposes", and this exception is applied to virtually all shotguns, even relatively non-traditional designs.
However, in the '90s ATF ruled that a few specific shotguns, particularly revolving-cylinder types such as the Striker/Protecta/Street Sweeper, and also the USAS-12 (pic related from ATF ruling 1994-1), are not suitable for sporting purposes, and are thus DDs.
I'm unaware of any ATF determination for a belt-fed shotgun, but it's fairly likely that if such a thing did come to their attention, they'd determine it to be non-sporting and thus a DD. It would be hard to make one that would pass the criteria used for rejecting the USAS-12.
Some of the modern shotguns being allowed (e.g. Saigas and other box- or drum-mag shotguns) suggest that the criteria used for the USAS-12 are no longer being applied, so maybe it would be fine. But it's quite conceivable they'd trot them back out for a belt-fed.
As long as it is semiautomatic, it.is 100% legal. If you want to have it fully automatic, you either have to modify a DShK to fire 12guage, and only have to fill out a form 1, or you would have to get an FFL, and make something that will fore 12guage fully automatically.
>god knows how he attached the rails with included screws (though it may be a professional drill and tap) >one ring holding the scope on
He's not fully there but he's getting there. Yes you can use a scope with one ring but it's a scope being held with one fricking ring; I doubt it holds zero well for precise shooting if bumped. I've seen it done on air rifles to levels of somewhat concerning success, which usually means it's okay for a .22 but probably pushing it.
>go buy in another state
Don't I need a firearm license to buy elsewhere tho?
>don't I need...
For ammo, no, but big chains like Walmart is probably going to want to see ID and "hey I can't sell to person in (state/city), sorry, policy (if they know that)". Would probably not work for gun transfers, though how that works I have no clue. Probably anywhere around your state (or anyone in the gun business in general) would know the moment they needed your address. Note: I'm not that anon and I'm not saying you should do either.
The rails were made from a 300mm bar of 12mm square aluminium (6061 according to the seller). I "milled" the dimensions down using my drill press with worn out bearings and then used my bench grinder to get each rail down to about 7.3mm tall. Countersunk holes were drilled and the original screws that held the plastic rails on were used to attach the new "rails". And yes, I did manage to strip 2 of the sets of threads, I'm pretty sure the receiver of the little badger is cast zinc, its so fricking soft. I might get around to retapping them one day, but for now two effective screws and one as little more than support sjould be enough, it's not like I'm going to put anything other than a sling point and a light on the handguard. They were also drilled and tapped for some M6 screws to hold the airsoft handguard in place. They were then painted with birchwood casey aluminum black as I just didn't have the patience to set up a full anodising rig, but I would like to anodise them at some point.
The handguard is just some cheap piece of gel blaster/airsoft junk. Cut down to allow the longshot mfg top rail to be used. It was also hit with the blackenig solution.
The scope was purchased on ebay to replace the giant fricking 1-5x scope I had before that doubled the weight of the gun. I doubt it will even hold zero if it had 6 rings holding it in place but time will tell. The reason it only has the one ring is because the eye relief is so fricking close, I need the scope to sit further back, unfortunately all the shitty cantilever mounts I have are too wide to sit between the dials and the eyepiece and would still only be one attachment point. I will probably end up modifying a cantilever mount to have the scope sit further back but it will likely be a single point connection. I figured if it's good enough for some red dot mounts on AR's, it should be good enough on this little piece of shit.
Apparently I never took a photo of the finished rails.
>And yes, I did manage to strip 2 of the sets of threads, I'm pretty sure the receiver of the little badger is cast zinc, its so fricking soft. I might get around to retapping them one day
Helicoils? They're apparently stronger than the original threads even according to Project Farm.
I had never heard of these before, I'll look into it, thanks.
1 year ago
Anonymous
>And yes, I did manage to strip 2 of the sets of threads, I'm pretty sure the receiver of the little badger is cast zinc, its so fricking soft. I might get around to retapping them one day
Helicoils? They're apparently stronger than the original threads even according to Project Farm.
I've never used or seen helicoils that small, but I've used 5/16 up to 3/4 for repairing cars old and new with broken bolts and stripped threads, they are a god send and far stouter than either cast iron or aluminum. Can't recommend enough for threads you dont want to budge in your lifetime
I had never heard of these before, I'll look into it, thanks.
https://i.imgur.com/uKxLc0u.png
[...]
I've never used or seen helicoils that small, but I've used 5/16 up to 3/4 for repairing cars old and new with broken bolts and stripped threads, they are a god send and far stouter than either cast iron or aluminum. Can't recommend enough for threads you dont want to budge in your lifetime
I do love project farm's autistic level of detail.
But yeah it does seem they don't make them that small. For now they are loctited in place and captured beneath the handguard so even if they were to back out, they wouldn't fall out.
Pic related, the stripped holes are at the very rear of the handguard next to the rear visible bolt.
1 year ago
Anonymous
I would just find new bolts up a size and tap the pitch for whatever I have, if you have to get new bolts then tap for the same pitch, but thats just my workshop
1 year ago
Anonymous
Yeah, I will likely do thst at some point, or I'll forget and leave it as it is.
1 year ago
Anonymous
Do you know the diameter of the screws? You can get down to 2 mm inserts on McMaster. Also if you are searching, "threaded inserts" will bring up a wider range of products that fill that role than "helicoil"
>starting with smooth bore barrel blank
the only source of 9mm steel tubes is the one seller on aliexpress/ebay kek >bro i made a barrel!
no, you rifled existing barrel blank ("""explosion proof tubing""")
Not that anon but i have a potential fix for the barrel problem. You're going to have to wait for however long it takes for me to figure out the design properly though.
You’re sitting on a multi million dollar solution for industrial uses if you’ve figured out a way to drill precise holes without truing them later or using expensive equipment.
you can't make a smooth bore 9mm, that's a NFA item
why do you think printgays shill the ecm rifling so hard, they're all based in the US and are scared of jail lol
Dumb question, but how hard is it to put irons on a rifle? Bought a savage axis off my neighbor and wish it had irons, but I also can't see spending to much on a $150 rifle. Is there something I can do myself or is this something I'd have to have a gunsmith do for me? If so how much am I looking to spend on this?
>tfw I was supposed to build a .338 for some guy like a year ago but I keep putting it off because I'm afraid of fricking up
the hardest part will be actually finding iron sights that fit the gun. if you bought a modern hunting rifle and there isn't a version with an identical barrel contour that comes with iron sights then they probably don't exist and you will have to make them or steal ones from another model and try to adapt them to fit yours. then it's a matter of either brazing them on, or using some combination of dovetails or tapped holes to attach them.
midway has a bunch of generic sight ramps with different curves for different sizes of barrel. They generally attach with screws and have a standardized dovetail machined into them. You'd need to drill and tap a shallow hole or two, which means getting a blind tap if you don't already have one. I'm in the same boat on my own gun, a ruger charger I got a williams firesight set for, and nodak spud made the perfect band-type front sight but then got bought and the new owner hadn't started production back up last I checked.
>then it's a matter of either brazing them on
Why wouldn't you silver solder? No joking around, dead serious. Unless you mean something that doesn't go completely around the barrel unlike
https://i.imgur.com/iCArJwB.jpg
midway has a bunch of generic sight ramps with different curves for different sizes of barrel. They generally attach with screws and have a standardized dovetail machined into them. You'd need to drill and tap a shallow hole or two, which means getting a blind tap if you don't already have one. I'm in the same boat on my own gun, a ruger charger I got a williams firesight set for, and nodak spud made the perfect band-type front sight but then got bought and the new owner hadn't started production back up last I checked.
. Though I'm always up to learn no matter which you meant. I just think brazing is really hard to clean up, isn't it?
you'll have to fit them to the barrel contour either by machine or hand whichever you suck less at. they'll have to get attached either fasteners so drilling and tapping the barrel or soldering them on which will probably leave the barrel needing refinished .
they'd be bases that you put sights on, easiest way since you could mostly frick with the front sight to get it zeroed
I'd go necg for the all the sight parts
just got in this winchester 190 new old stock replacement receiver, and the recoil spring tube has a bunch of voids in the aluminum. I got it off gb and don't want to frick around with sending it back, so what can I do to fix it? My thoughts so far are a syringe with jb weld to fill the voids and then smoothing it all out, or find a sleeve with the same i.d. and drill the receiver out to fit it, or just run the damn recoil spring on the aluminum and let it wear in the way it is. On the current gun with a cracked receiver that I'm replacing, you have to pack a ~8 inch spring into this 2" long hole to fit the bolt back in after cleaning, it's kind of a b***h already and I don't think there are voids in the old receiver. Each option I have sucks lol. Any thoughts?
I mean, you can always have it reamed out and a repair thread section put in (helicoil if they even make it in that threading?) and have the smooth walled hole reamed out and lined but I wouldn't touch it, just clean it and most importantly, use an aluminum compatible grease/oil in those areas if you use some. For example, IIRC graphite is not. And maybe also molybdinum? It's been a while, I don't work with either much.
I'd clean with a barrel brush and grease what needs to be greased. That one pit in the middle of the left hole, center photo, though, looks a bit dark. Is that a reamed hole or is it that pitted? It's fricking black.
those are all pits, there's probably 8 of them, my phone is shit for pictures though. I could probably pack a full cubic centimeter of jb weld into the pits, drag the extra out with a worn out barrel brush or something, and then ream it once it dries. The ream & sleeve would be the best repair I think. It's for my first gun ever, my dad gave it to me and I've had it in my closet since I was ten, and a child molester once killed himself with it. It's worth doing right I think.
The FGC-9 bolt is made by using 3d printed parts as jigs for accurate drilling. What the frick?
Either way, the Chonk-15 design is based around a 3d printed jig to mill a tube into the inside diameter of an AR, then "overmold" the metal with a 3d printed receiver to attach it to a lower.
9mm, 22lr, .308 and of course 5.56. That said, dude, just go buy it in another state. Like literally every other state held hostage by blue city gays.
I have a few questions. >what are some cool parts kits that are still out there for reasonable prices? >Does anybody make a stand alone 9mm ak receiver? Childers doesn't have anything in 9mm. >I want to make a 7 barrel 12g like that one anon. How do I make the trigger/firing pin mechanism?
Plenty of glock kits, ar kits, the cetme kits are available as well.
No. Shocker, but the 2nd amendment means that you're not prevented from buying guns or ammunition without the government knowing. That's only in states that have been subverted by democrat corruption havens who insist upon infringing the God given right of all Americans to buy whatever they so choose. Even in Commiefornia you don't have to have a license to buy ammo. You have to have a background check which is currently in a court case, but until 2020 you could buy ammunition in California with no strings attached. Literally, they cannot stop someone from just driving out of state, then driving back in state with bricks of ammo. They might "ban" it, but who the frick is gonna know you drove to pick up 10k rounds of 22lr to plink with on your bumfrick nowhere property?
>God given right of all Americans to buy whatever they so choose
what it really is is the God-given DUTY to keep yourself alive on a planet filled with murderous bandits and man-eating carnivorous beasts. Good guys have to be dangerous too.
Hey, it's just a matter of time until the courts sort out the whole deal with Bruen and these restrictions go away forever. Never should have taken this long, but things always get better. The FOID card will also eventually be revealed for the fricked up and useless piece of scrap it is.
shall not be infringed my dude, it's morally acceptable to skirt illegal laws
visit small stores that need your business, if they ask if you're a resident say yes, and if they ask to see your id you forgot it. If they drag their feet they lose your business and you try the next store.
I assumed he meant person to person sales which do not require an ffl in many states. You are correct with regards to a dealer purchase as far as I'm aware.
I have a few questions. >what are some cool parts kits that are still out there for reasonable prices? >Does anybody make a stand alone 9mm ak receiver? Childers doesn't have anything in 9mm. >I want to make a 7 barrel 12g like that one anon. How do I make the trigger/firing pin mechanism?
Has anyone worked with the hybrid smg design that's available on the gatalog? I'm wondering just how the whole thing functions, because I'd love to be able to cannibalize that, the fgc9 stingray and slap together a proper rifle that works off of .350 l'gend to solve the whole lack of rifle due to bottleneck problem.
Printed stock? looks real until you see layer lines. ia that a star head screw instead of a hex bolt? i wish it was counter sunk. 8/10 I love wood and extended mags on ar.
All that was asked was where to get a barrel, and that information was provided. If the question was, instead "Hey, how do I make a barrel for a .410 shotgun from scratch?" or "What sort of pipe should I look for to use as a barrel in a .410 shotgun for a restrictive country/region?" then that is different. It's no different from asking "where do I buy a hammer" and getting pissed when people tell you to go to the hardware store instead of explaining how you forge one out of rebar and melted down railroad spikes. If you want specific information, ask for specific information, don't just be vague and nebulous with your fricking query.
1 year ago
Anonymous
>don't just be vague and nebulous with your fricking query.
I would imagine the people that are vauge are so for a reason. I seriously doubt that it was an american asking.
1 year ago
Anonymous
Speaking as a burger, burgers are some of the biggest morons as well as the biggest savants. It would not surprise me that a fellow burger doesn't know you can just go get a barrel from a shop. Now, if said person was wondering where they could source a barrel from somewhere other than a store, that's also an acceptable question, and plenty of people will be able to tell them to get either hydraulic tubing or "explosion proof pipes".
1 year ago
Anonymous
>as well as the biggest savants
Most of their smart people are imported, since they can make the most money there.
Anybody have experience or advice for making your own flatsprings? After getting it in shape what is the best way to temper spring steel? Quench or no? I have asked around with some of my machinist buddies but gotten different answers, though none of them have made flat springs of firearm strength before
>After getting it in shape what is the best way to temper spring steel? Quench or no? I have asked around with some of my machinist buddies but gotten different answers, though none of them have made flat springs of firearm strength before
It depends on what exact alloy you're using. Most spring steels need to be quenched and then tempered, however, it's just a matter of whether an oil or water Q and what temps you hold it at.
The point isn't that the upper is stamped, just that it was stamped at a proper factory. If a cast lower was attached to a DIY stamped upper I'd question why not stamp the lower at that point - but at least it would be neat.
Making a cast lower for kits that depend on factory parts is kind of a novelty while others are trying to remove dependency from "gun" parts. And progress is slow because not a lot of people are willing to participate in fully DIY betas (they require more work than just buying kits) meaning small number of autists have to spend their free time and money on prototyping and testing.
Lo and behold, almost every time 3d printing is mentioned someone is like "I don't get why 3d printing gays simply don't do more casting?". They're already >doing it for free when it comes to working towards 3d printable designs and people expect them to release a set of instructions to handle molten metal at home. So to those who cast, more power to them. I just don't think casting lowers is progress when people like Hoffman are trying to solve the problem of attaching a barrel and gas system to a printed upper and not have it sag after heating up.
>trying to solve the problem of attaching a barrel and gas system to a printed upper and not have it sag after heating up.
I still say we should be at least trying the Lewis GPMG route and making some brackets in the forend that hold cheap aluminum flashing from the hardware store as dissipators/radiators, plus a force-air cooling system that works off the remaining gas. It's certainly bulky and stupid, but even mounting a CPU fan ducted up under the forend and running off the same battery pack as his weapon light did a lot for one of my buddy's prototypes, dropped barrel temps by like 20-30°F in 10-round strings. He also had some luck by soldering on a couple of zinc CPU radiators to either side of the gas block, which is not much of a solution long-term (because of hte inevitable corrosion) but keeps it from sagging on a hot day and a couple mag dumps.
You could even print or buy one of those airsoft handguard grips where you can put a LIPO battery on them, with that you would have power for basically days for spinning some small fans on them.
Maybe an even better idea would be to do a CAD design that integrate several fans on the top similar to what even your regular 3d printer comes with.
Yet obviously the best solution would be a quick detachable barrel, so you drop the other one on a cooling surface or in water like on the GITS movie.
I've made a couple. after you get the shape right you need to heat it red hot until it's not magnetic and then quench it. then you want to polish it again and temper it to a blue color. for that you can try using a bath of something like niter salts or molten lead, or you can just heat it with a torch.
Eastern Euro anon here, getting a creality ender pro soon, what else do I need? Where can I get started on all this and do I need to be like autisticly smart to figure it out because Im not really that bright with such things
If you're trying to design things from scratch? Yeah you're going to need some skills. You're just going to download the files? The guides are usually detailed.
NTAYRT, but go get a PSA AR kit, then start trying out the various lowers for them. I rec you start with the Firebolt and see how that works out for you.
budget: can't go wrong with AimSurplus. Great options for the price (check out their parts kits too). Brownells (on sale) is nice also. 3CR Tactical gets them in on a pretty consistent sale price it seems, dunno about shipping.
Baller, the world is your oyster I guess. Pick a model you like and go from there
You can at least try to fake some content in your post to keep the thread alive.
1 year ago
Anonymous
bump
1 year ago
Anonymous
I did 10 degrees forward with the 19 and 10 degrees back with the 17. 19 printed in 9.5hrs and the 17 in 7.25hrs with the same quality, not sure if the different grip textures affect time though as the 19's texture is much finer.
I would recommend also printing a calibration cube, (1 x 1 x 1) to confirm your printer's dimensional accuracy. This is really important for parts that need to fit together and particularly when they are being coupled with non printed parts. This also means that unless it is dialed in, print orientation can affect your dimensional accuracy.
This is kind of a meme, but why hasn't anybody tried 3d printing an SKS? obviously it's almost more of a meme but why not? If we can print MP5s and ARs. Is it the built in magazine? lack of parts?
With the amount of effort that would be required to do that, you might as well just make your own milled receiver. And yes 3D printing makes making guns more accessible but not many people would be making them even if it were accessible. Just a few nerds. Like with that 3D printed Cetme or AKM
go buy an abused gun that has not seen a drop of oil since 1982 and been riding around in bubba truck. Tear it down figure out what is broken or missing and either buy new parts or repair them and boom yah statred gunsmithing.
go buy an abused gun that has not seen a drop of oil since 1982 and been riding around in bubba truck. Tear it down figure out what is broken or missing and either buy new parts or repair them and boom yah statred gunsmithing.
scratch that go buy a 22lr rifle or a maverick 88 and start there. Trying to repair guns when you know jackshit about them is not very good way to start.
[...]
scratch that go buy a 22lr rifle or a maverick 88 and start there. Trying to repair guns when you know jackshit about them is not very good way to start.
That makes alot of sense fixing an old gun seem like hard mode compared to a factory new
go buy an abused gun that has not seen a drop of oil since 1982 and been riding around in bubba truck. Tear it down figure out what is broken or missing and either buy new parts or repair them and boom yah statred gunsmithing.
I think i will get one for a restoration project once I have some basics
>That makes alot of sense fixing an old gun seem like hard mode compared to a factory new
It's kind of the point, you learn best by doing challenging shit and fricking it up badly, not by playing with legos for an hour and wandering off. All of us have a couple busted guns in the shed that we thought we could fix easy and then learned Important Gunsmithing Lessons about. (Lesson 1: if a gun is missing a part that looks like an easy fix, look around to see if you can buy it BEFORE YOU BUY THE FRICKING GUN. Lesson 2: Get a parts diagram before you buy it. Lesson 3: All used blackpowder firearms are loaded, especially if the ramrod is broken. Proceed accordingly).
Although I do recommend you take apart something cheap, put it back together, and do your damnedest to work out why and how it does what it does. After a while you'll start to understand why Greener's autowienerer here
https://i.imgur.com/g5KYKid.jpg
is straightup hardcore pornography to an engineer.
Works for CETMEs. IIRC this was on a CETME build guide.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4614385
And this one just showed up in a search which is neat:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3707449
Oh shit you mean actually stamping them out of sheetmetal, not bending flats, don't you? Frick. Yeah, it may be doable. Stuff Made Here did it with wood. Perhaps you could do it with printed plastic. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IcjgrB9vTec
Yeah. Saw an article about stamping other metal things with a 3d printed mold should be possible for guns as well.
Putting down a paper schematic on the metal and drilling the holes first so you can use them to center it properly.
Most of the pps-43 is just stamped metal so there's no reason why not.
Though the article did mention issues of the mold breaking with repeat use but you could probably just make a silicone mold out of it and make a hardier resin copy if it's that much of an issue.
>Though the article did mention issues of the mold breaking with repeat use but you could probably just make a silicone mold out of it and make a hardier resin copy if it's that much of an issue.
Why wouldn't you just cast an aluminum version of it using lost PLA then? Resin and silicone is $$$ and resin is usually either a hair soft or a hair brittle.
I'm not planning on doing either but also I'm talking about the stamping thing because it imo has a lot more potential than casting in metal which tends to be unreliable when it comes to bubbles and other such issues.
You can cast your stamping molds using lost PLA is what I'm saying. Aluminum may not last long when used for stamping steel sheets into flats, but I feel it'd last longer than printed plastic. That way, yes, you have to cast once, but once you're done casting and cleaning up your stamping dies using lost PLA, it's much more solid and likely to last you a long time compared to printing stamping dies all the time with PLA (which you really have to print near solid if not solid, are huge, take forever to print, etc). I've never tried either but I think you could make it work.
1 year ago
Anonymous
Ah yeah that makes more sense. Thought you meant casting the parts themselves.
Should work better than with plastic or resin though might take a few pours to get right and maybe there's a risk of the aluminium deforming but i don't know enough about the topic to say.
1 year ago
Anonymous
You can actually do pretty well with just 8 or so walls of layer thickness and a reasonable infill percentage for stamping dies. Makes consumable dies much more feasible.
look up "ballistics by the inch" and see where you think the break even point is.
>After getting it in shape what is the best way to temper spring steel? Quench or no? I have asked around with some of my machinist buddies but gotten different answers, though none of them have made flat springs of firearm strength before
It depends on what exact alloy you're using. Most spring steels need to be quenched and then tempered, however, it's just a matter of whether an oil or water Q and what temps you hold it at.
[...] >trying to solve the problem of attaching a barrel and gas system to a printed upper and not have it sag after heating up.
I still say we should be at least trying the Lewis GPMG route and making some brackets in the forend that hold cheap aluminum flashing from the hardware store as dissipators/radiators, plus a force-air cooling system that works off the remaining gas. It's certainly bulky and stupid, but even mounting a CPU fan ducted up under the forend and running off the same battery pack as his weapon light did a lot for one of my buddy's prototypes, dropped barrel temps by like 20-30°F in 10-round strings. He also had some luck by soldering on a couple of zinc CPU radiators to either side of the gas block, which is not much of a solution long-term (because of hte inevitable corrosion) but keeps it from sagging on a hot day and a couple mag dumps.
I think the Chonk-15 guy used aluminum tape inside the printed handguard and it helped, he seems to have switched to a router-made aluminum handguard though
Tried drilling the rear trunnion holes for this and majorly fricked up on one of them. The trunnion wasn't 100% secure in the jig and slipped when I slid the receiver back on to drill [very tight fit]. The one above it is a little dodgy too, but I'm pretty sure it'll be okay. The holes on the opposite side are perfect and rivets fit through them very snugly. Haven't dimpled the holes yet because I need advice.
Is this fatal? Or is having one cruddy rivet hole on the rear trunnion okay? I'd hate having to pay and wait for another receiver to try again, and I'm not sure who to ask or where to go to potentially get the hole filled back in and fixed.
>Is this fatal? Or is having one cruddy rivet hole on the rear trunnion okay
If you're riveting, the rivet is supposed to swell as you beat the shit out of it and fill the hole. It's not just grabbing the ends, it's also upsetting into all the parts where the hole wanders. Would I trust that one? Depends on how deep the chunk you took out is. If you're super stressed drop some weld in it and call it a day.
The trunnion is a little scratched but otherwise fine, so the hole itself is really about 1mm deep since it's only through the receiver. I don't have easy access to a welder, unfortunately, but I'll keep that in mind.
I guess the 'easy' fix would just be smushing the rivet with the factory head on the opposite side, so the side being formed is more likely to squish out into the hole. Then hoping it doesn't start to work itself forwards over time.
I've improperly replaced, fixed, and then re-replaced rear trunnions on the same reciever and egged out two of the holes on my AK, but it still holds solid now. my only advice is to smash that rivet like a fricking pancake (not all the way flat, but *really* smoosh it in) if you want it to hold. Rivets are soft metal and will squish down into any imperfections either in the trunnion or reciever itself.
Thanks! That sorta backs up the thought I had up there, using the non-factory end being formed to fill out the missing metal. If I can't find someone to tack some weld on it so I can try again, I might just give it a shot as it is.
I wish it were pretty, but I'll settle for safe.
Welding will always create pockets of fricky heat treatment that can create cracking down the line. So you need to balance out that with the question of whether a slightly egged-out hole is gonna let your trunnion slip or not. If it's only 1mm deep, I wouldn't bother.
fricking REEE someone explain why that design is so le genius
>fricking REEE someone explain why that design is so le genius
Greener's autowienerer? Count the number of parts. Count the number of spring. I say spring because there's only one (plus one farther back in the trigger). Look at what it's all actually doing in the gun, and how neatly it fits into the available space in the lockwork. >A single part is the hammer, striker, sear, and wienering lever, with one pin and only four working surfaces >the stud that lifts the wienering arm is also an out-of-battery safety AND part of the auto-ejection system >one single, smooth action on five parts resets the trigger, wieners the hammer, and ejects the shells >You can safely and easily dewiener the action by opening the gun and closing it with the trigger depressesed >no exposed parts other than the ejector and trigger >Those fricking voluptuous curves
It's UTTER FILTH. It's the difference between a program that does the work with sixteen interesting but isolated subroutines in a thousand lines of code and one that does the same job with fifty perfectly-crafted lines and a couple of arrays.
I'd love to see an animation of this in action. Incredible what some of these designers were able to accomplish
You can find animations of the Martini-Henry (and cutaway rifles being operated on video) pretty easily.
>Welding will always create pockets of fricky heat treatment
Fug, that's a good point. I might as well use it as-is then since the other three holes are either spot on or good enough.
I had only gone back as far as the Martini pic.
Greener also did not deign the boxlock action though.
The action is an Anson&Deeley design as patented by their employer Westley Richards. Greener made the design under license then slightly changed the wienering arm, stopped paying royalties, and filed his own patent.
When sued he used his gov. contacts from the ordnance boards and superior bankroll to simple steamroll Richards. He then wrote his own book. The bulk of Greener's actual patent designs were simple things like safeties and locking mechanisms, and the British patent for choke boring (completely ignoring anything from the former colonies).
Webley did much the same with his revolver design. Stole the bulk of it from someone who had stolen designs from several Belgians.
1 year ago
Anonymous
I had only gone back as far as the Martini pic.
Greener also did not deign the boxlock action though.
The action is an Anson&Deeley design as patented by their employer Westley Richards. Greener made the design under license then slightly changed the wienering arm, stopped paying royalties, and filed his own patent.
When sued he used his gov. contacts from the ordnance boards and superior bankroll to simple steamroll Richards. He then wrote his own book. The bulk of Greener's actual patent designs were simple things like safeties and locking mechanisms, and the British patent for choke boring (completely ignoring anything from the former colonies).
Webley did much the same with his revolver design. Stole the bulk of it from someone who had stolen designs from several Belgians.
..that's kind of hilarious. And also explains the really long whiny diatribe about several of his lawsuits in the middle of the actions chapter.
I've improperly replaced, fixed, and then re-replaced rear trunnions on the same reciever and egged out two of the holes on my AK, but it still holds solid now. my only advice is to smash that rivet like a fricking pancake (not all the way flat, but *really* smoosh it in) if you want it to hold. Rivets are soft metal and will squish down into any imperfections either in the trunnion or reciever itself.
You're basically John Browning at this point for inventing the AR, no cert needed. Just start advertising your gunsmith/gun designer services on craigslist.
you're laughing but I think their final project is actually just putting an ar together. I work at a gun shop and some guy brought in an ar-10 lower with the buffer detent somehow jammed in the hole. he explained that he really needed it unstuck because it was for his online gunsmithing course. I said shouldn't you be fixing it then but he said all he had to do was put it together. I know he's ngmi because he didn't even ask how I did it when he came back to pick it up.
The guy described in your story will literally be doing what I suggested here
You're basically John Browning at this point for inventing the AR, no cert needed. Just start advertising your gunsmith/gun designer services on craigslist.
I really should get started at working on my guns but I'm having a hard time bringing myself to do it.
5 guns and they all need various amounts of work.
What are some entry level skills i should learn to be a comfy gunsmith bros. Ive been practicing re-profiling A2 lowers to A1 and wanting to rebarrel old revolvers and rifles also gonna plan on doing checkering and other wood shit. I have customer service shit and web design but i dont want to be a total moron when i show up to this one place that takes up apprentices
>How to home build a bolt/gas system/locking system for an intermediate cartridge without a lathe or mill?
This is the holy grail of the 3d gun movement
Little of column A, little of column B. I'm trying to get polycarbonate to work and it shrinks like a motherfricker. I don't particularly care too much about it because I'm going to make a point of buying PLA+ in the future.
>lose shitty coil spring from shitty taurus >can't find a replacement so make a flat spring to replace it
I sure hope this works at least long enough to get it out the door
can you make glocks out of clear purple nintendo plastic yet?
Would Americans be interested in a 3D printable Norinco NP762 frame? I’m thinking of doing a cad drawing of the frame. If anyone wants it we can figure that out but I’m not going to make any myself.
Have you seen how cheap hard drives are? My god, SSDs are down to what HDDs were in like 2013. $60/TB or less for SSDs IIRC. HDDs even lower. I've been sitting on a 120/150gb SSD nearly unused until recently and I remember it being like $75 or whatever it was a couple years back, and that was on sale at that.
1 year ago
Anonymous
Yeah, 300 doll hairs for 20 TB. I need about 4 of them.
One idea I haven't seen proposed that I've been ruminating on, is instead of 3d printing parts, either to directly use or as a lost cast, just print a mold negative (or make one from silicone) and cast parts using glass reinforced polyurethane that's available everywhere. Not as robust as aluminum, but probably a million times better than plastic printed parts, and you can reuse the mold. I've tried to find anyone who has tried this with no luck.
[...]
Injection molding would allow for more precise parts as well as it being fast.
Worth exploring imo.
buy a used haas mini mill with a 4th axis and build all the parts you want. If you are in US, you don't need to worry about rifling or reaming chambers.
Injection molding is coming more and more into the realm of diy lately.
I'm specifically not talking about using thermoplastics because of heat and hardness/strength, which my understanding is where a lot of the problems with 3d printed gun parts come from. Polyurethane can't melt, and once set, stays hard and isn't really flexible.
bump
Huh, I thought this thread had died. Thanks for saving it, I guess.
There are people working on it. Mainly they are working on getting parts consistently of the same dimensions because with the current methods you dont get the exact same size.
OP here, I have made plenty of russo ukrainian threads because the war is the most interesting weapon related thing to happen in decades, so instead of being a homosexual you can try to enjoy things, and make threads of your own to talk about things that you want talked about.
>the most interesting weapon related thing to happen in decades
It would be interesting if 3/4 of the threads weren't the equivalent of hearing a random stranger have an episode of explosive diarrhoea in a public bathroom along with there being +20 threads about the shit.
It's should be limited to a certain amount of threads or kept in one general to prevent shit flooding.
Finally got a lathe. Seems to work fine. Gonna do dumb shit with some very nice steel I scrounged from a sawmill.
Cool shit, interested in the final product
Sorry op, only russo-ukranian threads are allowed
I'm finally getting a pa12 sls 3D printer. Would I be the first person with a sls printed fgc-9 and other printed guns?
No, and you won't be the first person to blow-up a sls project either.
Anon, I'm gonna tell you that sls is for minis, not for gats. Don't even fricking try it, you'll fricking hurt yourself.
Don't worry I know what I'm doing (famous last words) I do this kinda stuff (not guns though) as work for a university.
No, anon, this is legit like building a frame out of papier mache, this isn't a matter of anything but material strength and photoresin is nowhere near capable of what you're going to attempt.
Sls (selective laser sintering) is nylon powder not photo resin. They are 100% solid structural parts I already use in industrial machines. You might be confusing it with dlp or sla printing.
Oh frick, my bad. Now I feel a fool. Well, if nylon can work out there, that might be a good idea. You have any resources for functional printing examples?
But why?
Well if you watch stuff made here he uses sls parts in all of his builds. But also bond tech uses it for all their extruders and I've never had a problem with it breaking
New challenge. I might mock up the 9mm links and pawl on some sch40 pipe to see how it goes first. either way, It should be fun
There are pricier options. I mean you would've spent that kind of cash on a semi-full auto, why not spend it on an industrial grade manufacturing machine for parts that might need to be metal?
I read your post on Nylon, still just trying to be helpful.
T. American.
I was just reading that some company came out with metal filament that can be used in regular printers.
yeah it's metal particles in plastic. you burn off the plastic in a kiln and then sinter the part together and get a metal part. it warps and deforms due to the fact that the plastic burns off. it is interesting, regardless.
I just used mine to print a vz.61 receiver in castable resin, does that count? I cast it in zamak and aside from a single cosmetic flaw it worked perfectly
No because that's still dlp or sla, I'm doing sls nylon powder.
You're right, my mistake. Post results I want to see how it goes. You should fire it with a string the first few times haha
European here I can only do that safely during thew years masked by the fireworks
If you make a 22lr firearm with a threaded barrel and a suppressor to accompany it I promise it will be quiet enough that nobody will suspect anything for a shot or two if you use subsonic ammo.
We'll see, first I'll have to actually build the machine (around 3000 euros)
Good luck friend
Did you follow a tutorial? I’ve been thinking about printing a receiver for my vz 61 kit but casting might be better for longevity.
Nope, I had to figure it all out on my own.
I made my own copy based off the schematics and taking measurements off a cut receiver. It is not quite ready for public release unfortunately. I don't want to release it until it is perfect. It is 95% of the way there and I will post it here when it is done. Unfortunately I am not an SOT so it is semi-auto but someone with the ability to make post samples could easily modify the model.
The casting process I am using is printing it in castable resin and then using R&R plasticast in a loaf pan that is the perfect size for the receiver. My vacuum chamber is not quite big enough to fit the mold after pouring but I have had decent results with vibrating it, I may purchase a larger one to fix this. I then place it in my kiln for the burnout as you would any other wax casting. I am casting using zamak 12 currently but also have zamak 5. The weird lines you see in the picture are to aid with the casting process and are removed afterword - the thin areas have needed some help to get the metal in there. If I had a larger vacuum chamber I am sure I could remove most of these.
Noice
>buy the larger vacuum chamber
Saw a thread on diy the other day about how to build one on the cheap. Thing it was in a thread about israeliteellery.
I'll see if I can dig it up
Dream bigger. New designs are the way around these problems, ones that use readily available materials and simplified designs. Why must the entire product be cast? Simply design bolts that can be made with bar stock a cheap drill press and some printed jigs. If the caliber is kept reasonable then the barrel can simply be threaded and pinned to a cast receiver, or a simple trunnion could be designed to be made with the drill press as above that is then attached to the casting.
I'm not proposing that the entire thing has to be cast, the issue is that we have types of parts that can be done through expedient means and those that can't.
Bar stock is what the FGC-9 uses. Like I said, there's solved problems. What problem hasn't been solved yet that casting could solve?
The Amigo Grande uses a clamshell to hold the trunnion, and bolts lock it into the printed receiver. So again, solved problems. We don't need to cast a receiver when we can print it, and bolt barrels/sleeves of some sort to threaded inserts.
So to answer to anon's
question of why 3d print gays are rarely seen casting stuff - they either buy factory parts or use bar stock/tubing to make parts. Anything they need that could be cast they're using commercially available steel and hacking and drilling it into shape, anything that could be printed they print instead of casting. This isn't to say casting is a fruitless endeavor, but it's a side road that doesn't move the 3d printing movement forward - at least right now.
The heat and durability continues to be and always will be a problem for these PLA designs. This is not a solved problem at all. When someone in Arizona can leave the printed gun in their car in the summer and then take it out and mag dump a half dozen magazines with no worry that is the point I would consider these problems solved.
To add, these are still useful firearms. But they are not perfect. And for many applications they are unsuitable. We should strive towards designs that have no limitations. Not intending to be overly negative.
If you are that committed to that particular performance metric just make a high temp printer and make it out of high temp engineering material.
That is very expensive, I thought the goal is affordable homemade firearms that can be made anywhere. I am not advocating for expensive set-ups like my own, designs that use traditional sand casting would be ideal. The mold patterns for a receiver could be printed easily and then cast with minimal post processing work if the design was intended for it. Same for fire control groups etc.
What about high temperature thermoset composites, cast in silicone molds and cured in a bomb vessel? You could make the mold positives from almost anything, even a chunk of soap would work.
I would love to see development in this area. It is something I have thought about before. I really think that people are too focused on directly printing parts because it is quicker and easier when the focus should be on stuff like you suggest or as
said.
Previously I have seen a grip cast in resin for a revolver by someone here and a ks-23 foreend by Kjaskaar
I plan on doing this in the future and it's going to potentially make some people upset.
I have only heard bad things about those people so anyhow so don't feel bad about it.
Post some jigs tho. I'm not even sure what jigs mean but i imagine it's like a form shape type of thing that you can shape metal against.
>I plan on doing this in the future and it's going to potentially make some people upset.
That means it's worth doing
>Post some jigs tho
There's a few examples here: https://defcad.com/search/?q=JIG&order=recent
There's some interesting ones on there. I'm not really a fan of defcad though since they limit who can download their files.
My reference to heat issues is 3D Print General's event where laying a FGC-9 on a table that was under the sunlight in Texas caused parts to deform under spring pressure. He fixed it by changing filament material.
One could use metal (in commercially available forms) for better heat dissipation and maybe even as bracing for parts that could deform under spring pressure. Or heat resistant epoxies.
Right now, the only major potential use for casting I see are gas blocks and barrel sleeves.
The issue is that there is strong materials that DO come close to something made just as a cast one, but it is VERY expensive material, that also needs a well controlled environment, and high end parts even tend to wear out altogether when printing. A 1Kg of PEEK or PEKK which are one of the most resistant superpolymers out there costs $750 alone, and as for Nylon and Polycarbonate filaments, they cost around $120 a Kilo but maintenance and printing of them alone is a mayor b***h, they gather moisture severely quick, which basically is a print killer.
Look at the Urutau it is like the evolution of the FGC9.
the urutau looks unbelievably sexy from what I've seen of the beta
I'm a little tempted to join when I'm on break from uni
Is this all made of just polymer or anything sturdier?
Sirayatech Cast True Blue. I have some better stuff for israeliteelry but this has been perfectly adequate for the receiver and it burns out very clean. The only problem is that it is sort of fragile and needs heavy supports for a model this size. The bed adhesion can be an issue but I sanded my build plate with 200 grit and it has been fine.
Mad respect. The other models I've seen online lack dimensional accuracy or are only geared toward using AR15 FCG's etc. If someone was dead set on printing a VZ receiver SLA seems to be the better option for thinner walls without compromising strength
Unfortunately all the resins I have used are very brittle. I am interested in the expensive engineering resins but I am not going to put money into them at this point. I saw one that claims to be PEEK-like but the cost of these resins is prohibitive for me to just test them out.
I am plaster casting using the same process as lost wax for israeliteelry it and will be using a vacuum chamber in the not too distant future. The one I have is too small for the mold. I don't get consistent results without it unfortunately so it seems to be a requirement because of the thin walls. Sometimes it works sometimes it doesn't.
I was watching some ceramic casting the other day and he cast at really high mold temperatures. Do you pour metal in ambient temperature? it can be one of the cause of the problems since the metal will cool of pretty quickly and mess with the flow inside the mold.
Do you pour metal in a ambient temperature mold.*
depends on the metal, I think lead's ok to do that way because it melts so low, but I read a thing from someone who made silver bullets, and 2000 degrees melting point meant the funnel and mold needed to be 800 I think, just to keep the silver from freezing in the funnel. Lead melts at 800 iirc.
Yeah i get it.
Maybe if you put the mold in the oven at 400 it will get better definition.
And i saw the guy pouring cast iron the ceramic moulds were glowing
>depends on the metal, I think lead's ok to do that way because it melts so low
Technically yes, but if you're going for good detail, even in silicone, you really want a hot mold. Also, it's best practice to push pretty much anything you're casting in over 250°F to drive condensation out of the mold. Otherwise you can get blow-ups when it hits bubbles of water. In the best case you get micro-voids and worst-case it blows metal back up out of the funnel.
>t. garage caster who does lead and pewter minis, bullets, and some basic brass work
My last cast was at a slightly higher temp around 500f as an experiment to see if it would help fill the thin spots, it worked but the surface finish was not very good if you look at the picture up somewhere in the thread. This is an area I am still experimenting with and as I will be using a vacuum next attempt I will not need to have the mold this hot.
If I assume the general rule used in israeliteelry of 1000 degrees below pouring temp applies to cast iron then the mold would have been at somewhere around 1500f. Just a guess
I need this. I have the incorrect dimensional one, it looks cool, but no way in hell does it work
What model did you use? I know there was that ancient one floating around for years that used the og vz61 FCG and the more recent CZAR from DD that uses an AR FCG. What kind of process did you use for casting?
How you are casting zamak? is that spinning wheel thing or it is like sand casting?
Going to start on a new project today. Modifying this bad boy for belt feed
post your final product, anon (the poo poo shit)
>Got 300 dollars to put towards a 3D printer now
Thus begins the horrendous process of figuring out what's the best one currently for maybe 6-700
Me trusty Prusa i3 mk3s+ never let me down
Interesting, would have never ever found this in a million years. What have you made thus far with it? The image on their site looks pretty small, is it decent sized?
>1099 for 1km of spool
That's just funny to me.
hoffman tactical almost exclusively uses Prusa printers for his builds, parts, test pieces, and small tools
Nice, thanks for that info. Always a concern of mine that I'll pay nearly 1000 for a printer and I meet the size limitations fast...
Bruh what, prusa is like, the original. First consumer tier 3D printer.
You could buy a Prusa, but they're a bit overpriced for the feature set (although quite reliable). Go for it if you want to spend the money, if not, Ender 3 is the answer. Go to the PrepHole thread on 3D-printing if you need support.
Investment casting 3D-printed parts can be quite tricky: casting is more art than science in a lot of ways. I'm currently doing some workshops at a casting place to get a hang of things, but not for gunrelated stuff, because, y'know, guns scary.
>Investment casting 3D-printed parts can be quite tricky
Fortunately the math behind sorting out vents and pour channels isn't that bad. Look up a copy of Manufacturing Processes for Engineering Materials by Kalpakjian and Schmid
>DIY
Forgot about that board, I'll go lurk.
>Ender 3
I know they're cheap and pretty much the standard but I'm looking to have something which can be used for much high quality or advanced prints without concern. like I said, I'll go lurk DIY though. Thanks
Simply never heard of them. The shilling has always been crealty and ender.
If you want high quality prints that will mostly will be determined by the material you use. For a beginner is better to get something like an Ender 3 V2 (theres a NEO version now) or something like the Biqu B1, its kinda of a better, more modern Ender 3 but it's not from Creality, otherwise you can get a Creality S1 which has a direct drive style extrusion and its super easy to assemble, but you wont be able to print superfast like a bowden style extruder, yet I doubt you will do that anyways.
As for materials, eSun PLA+ is what I would recommend hands down for /k/ related stuff, dont buy Creality PLA, it sucks and eSun usually cheaper too. TPU which is a flexible material, if you find it from Creality, you can go ahead, Creality TPU is actually pretty decent.
For high end resistant materials, you can get either ABS/ABS+ which is great, but its a pain in the ass to print since its VERY prone to temperature change, so you most likely would have to build an enclosure for your printer to keep it all warm, otherwise the print will deform with just room temperature due of material retraction. PETG is basically the better version of ABS since its just as resistant but its kinda similar to PLA+ but just needs the higher temperature to print, but its not very affected by temperature and material retraction, so for parts that have a lot of stress, this material really comes in handy.
The problem for entry level printers is that you most likely will have to replace the heat brake with a high quality one made of titanium, yet doing that modification is actually pretty easy, if you get it for a new printer that you haven't even used, its even easier.
Still most /k/ stuff that has been 3d printed just uses PLA+ and it works almost flawlessly if there was no printing issues, besides PLA+ is much more available to buy and more cost effective if you buy in bulks.
Check out CHEP's Filament Friday channel, that helped me a lot, and if you have a Creality its a godsend
I'm still lurking, thanks for all that information anon, very helpful.
>Check out CHEP's Filament Friday channel
Will do.
Bambo lab p1p should be great when it comes out
ingeniously simple and effective design
It just makes the engineer in me a little tingly every time I look at it.
That's incredibly simple, damn.
You will never be a real gunsmith
dont the printers inform the feds if you are priting gun stuff or is that just my shizo mind?
like they are connected to the internet or whatever and be like "hold on, that's a ... oh. My. Satan... a GHOST GUN(tm)" and sends that to the atf who comes and kills my dog (her name is aika)
>is that just my shizo mind?
it is. The printer itself is already not connected to the internet, the only thing that could rat on you is the slicer program which you use on your pc, but that is also not connected to the internet, its also open source. But if you want you could just use your slicer with your PCs internet connection disabled. The only thing left is where you get the files, so if you download them from a fed site I guess they would know its you. So just download it from the gatalog or print2a and you will be fine.
I think also some of the stuff like autodesk is all cloud based now, I definitely think that's a vector to dead doggos.
>autodesk
Thats a CAD so it wouldnt affect you unless you are designing anything, but yes definitely wouldnt use anything cloud based. But there are free and open source CADs like FreeCAD. Personally the only thing I`ve ever designed is an ergonomic charging handle so I used tinkercad.
Autodesk makes many different programs. Inventor and fusion would be relevant for 3d modeling and making stl files. Fusion is cloud based, inventor is not but I do have to sign in to my account to open it. I've never tried to shut off wifi after opening inventor so I can't say if it's necessarily safer. Sketchup is another free option for modeling that should not require internet connectivity.
Sketchup is usable but i felt like it was pretty janky, the one file I made with it ended up having weird extrusions coming out of it when sent to the printer software.
Pic related, basepad extension for m&p 9mm 10 round cuckmags, doesn't add capacity bit ads length and could be modified to add weight bases etc.
Printed the one on the left, yes it's "painted" with a sharpie as the guy who printed it for me used white filament.
Agreed. My brother uses sketchup for lots of different projects and occasionally has similar issues if lines are not connected where they should be, not sure if that's a constraint issue or what, but I never have. I have inventor through work and prefer that. Fusion is similar but has worse ui in my opinion. Since inventor does not use the cloud for storage I would think it has better opsec and considering it's used by large companies for potentially patented products I would think it's safe but really don't trust anything that connects to the internet to be completely so.
>inventor
I might check that out, thanks.
>Sketchup is usable but i felt like it was pretty janky, the one file I made with it ended up having weird extrusions coming out of it when sent to the printer software.
Delete a wall from your model or bring the camera inside the model and see if there's something strange inside. Sketchup tends to create a ton of internal geometry that shouldn't be there or makes walls disappear or flip (white outside, blue/grey internal) and it fricks with printer programs. Right click any walls that are flipped the wrong way and it'll have an option to flip them back; I forget what it's called. Also get yourself an old version of it from before google sold it off, the one you can download. I love sketchup for the fact that you can change every last edge and point but it's a little fiddly and missing features in some areas.
I thought I had gone in and fixed the geometry at the time, but maybe not. I'm not a complete moron when it comes to 3d work, but I'm no picasso.
I think the sketchup version I have might be an old one, I dunno. I downloaded it years ago and it sat on my pc unused, it ran an update before I could use it which I think changed it to stylebuilder or some bullshit, I think there's two versions.
I think having used something like Cinema4D in the past, sketchup was like learning how to draw on walls with crayons again.
It is not your schizo mind some 3d printer company and slicer said something about that but it is not widespread.
I've never seen any 3d printing gays make molds and cast parts, is there a good reason not to?
The future is now, old man.
>I've never seen any 3d printing gays make molds and cast parts, is there a good reason not to?
Casting is hard and imprecise; casting metals that melt at high temperatures even more so. It's also dangerous. The easiest way is to cast a "close enough" part and then machine it into tolerance. Which does not solve the "just machine it bro" problem, nor give us interchangeable parts because everything is hand-fitted.
It >is< an awesome way to get a brass FGC-9, however, provided you're willing to do some lightening cuts.
>but that''s heav--
>why the frick woul--
shut up, it looks good.
Has someone provided a pic of their brass fgc9 what does that look like
I get fairly accurate results that are dimensionally close enough to not need machining beyond drilling out the pin holes etc. The rough finish in this photograph is highly exaggerated by the flash, but this is with no clean up or polishing at all. I also cast with the mold at 500 to try and get the metal to flow into the small spaced with greatly effected the finish. But the casting has no porosity and it is solid enough that I trust it to not break. I am refining the model and my process currently but I am very close to a good end product. If I buy the larger vacuum chamber I am certain it would look much better. I don't get lots of time to work on this stuff so I have been delaying.
Don't be so discouraging - casting can work if you buy/build the proper equipment. The bad results I am seeing are always caused by people trying to shortcut the process. You just can't do that, it needs to be done properly.
For anyone interested I will be casting another this weekend and will post results if the thread is still around in a couple days.
Looks good anon.
But my point is that for example you still need the factory stamped steel upper and the bolt. Casting would be a way to unlock progress - we can already print the lower, casting can get you a stronger product but that's the upgrade to a solved problem. Right now the problems are bolts, specifically locking ones, and attaching barrels to receivers.
Casting barrel sleeves to decrease heat damage to a printed receiver is probably the next step. But I don't see core parts being cast in the future FGC-5.56 or 7.62
If you need stamping is easier to make a 3dprinted tool for that. Adapt a car jack or buy a cheap press idk. I saw as low as 80bucks a 15ton press but that was a year ago.
The point isn't that the upper is stamped, just that it was stamped at a proper factory. If a cast lower was attached to a DIY stamped upper I'd question why not stamp the lower at that point - but at least it would be neat.
Making a cast lower for kits that depend on factory parts is kind of a novelty while others are trying to remove dependency from "gun" parts. And progress is slow because not a lot of people are willing to participate in fully DIY betas (they require more work than just buying kits) meaning small number of autists have to spend their free time and money on prototyping and testing.
Lo and behold, almost every time 3d printing is mentioned someone is like "I don't get why 3d printing gays simply don't do more casting?". They're already >doing it for free when it comes to working towards 3d printable designs and people expect them to release a set of instructions to handle molten metal at home. So to those who cast, more power to them. I just don't think casting lowers is progress when people like Hoffman are trying to solve the problem of attaching a barrel and gas system to a printed upper and not have it sag after heating up.
>Don't be so discouraging - casting can work if you buy/build the proper equipment.
I mean, yes, it can. It's also a completely different skillset that requires a lot of work and practice to avoid voids, micro-cracking, and generally getting things to tolerances safely and efficiently. It took me months to get to the point where I was reliably casting small parts in my garage, and was good enough to pick out a bad one before I seriously tested it. I'm not gonna suggest it as a shortcut to someone who just needs a gun, now. If you cast things in a way that's cheap, relatively safe, and easy to achieve for a novice they're gonna need a third skillset to finish, rather than ones that make the design easier or safer to build. And I don't want to add another pile of equipment to the list if it's not necessary.
For stuff like your use-case of resurrecting a gun with a torched receiver that you can spend time on casting with safe dimensions, dressing and prepping, it's a great idea. Especially since you clearly have the experience. Likewise, simple stuff where you mostly just need a block of metal and you can finish them with a drill press and jig (bolt weights, gas blocks, etc) are gonna be fine for newbies. I'm just leery of going past that when the goal is making a weapon with the least possible bullshit quotient.
Any man who shits on a way to make jigs quickly and precisely is a fricking fool.
Highly interested sir cant wait to see
>For anyone interested I will be casting another this weekend and will post results if the thread is still around in a couple days
If you take enough pictures it'd deserve its own thread.
It will be another week but will do
There's a cast aluminum 10/22 receiver from a lost investment PLA mold from the FOSSCAD days.
Let me break it down, most 3d printing guys fall in one of three main categories:
- People who want unserialized firearms as a protest/tee hee at the ATF, who can just focus on the lower/frame (they buy the rest)
- People who like to have custom guns that look unique/sci-fi (print a shell around existing commercial firearms parts)
- Legitimate "I have to make this shit inside an European commie block/Asian megacity" conditions that require the use of simplified tools and easy to codify instructions.
The latter rely on standardized tubing/rods for consistency, a little bit of dremel and ECM, hand saws, at most a bench drill press and the cheapest welder you can find. Even the FCG-9 has been forked into "weldless bolt" variations just to skip the welder.
If you get into casting, you'll see on youtube that there's entire channels dedicated to troubleshooting molds. Contraction during cooling, the velocity of the liquid flow and turbulence during the transition from liquid to solid, surface finish, etc.
The vast majority of metals you can cast "at home" (and homes differ quite a bit) are not that great. IvanTheTroll recently got sheets of 4140 or 4150 laser cut to make a DIY glock slide, where the "locking lug" meets the top of the barrel, and after not many shots the steel was already getting peened. Some Zamak alloys are HiPoint tier and thus usable for firearms, but let's face it you're not getting the best casting and cooling/heat treatment from an empty soup can, plaster of paris and your mom's oven. Still, I'd probably design such a cast around a good grade of steel and attempt to heat treat it to avoid the Zamak from getting beat up and cracking. Yeah there's DIY microforges guides on youtube to bring small knifes to quenching temp. Motherfrickers are designing FGC-9s in a way that skips buying a welder, but you want them to cast and heat treat? Hmmm.
Other than the material itself, you still have the issue of casting most likely requiring post-processing. Casting may not be accurate to the final dimension, cast may not have the necessary quality, a quality cast will have a rough surface from your 3d printing layer lines. If you're going to have to machine to final dimensions, you may as well have started from billet.
3d printed dies and a table vise can bend 1-3mm sheet steel. A router and a 3d printed jig can act as a poor man's mill. Sure, the complexity increases if you include these kinds of techniques to make pressure bearing parts for a 3d printed design, but I'd still say it's less complex than casting - and it would be more consistent in terms of getting others to replicate.
I bought some dshk links and found out 12 gauge fits in them. I don't know what to do with this info. Beltfed 12 gauge? Would that be legal?
>beltfed 12 gauge
maximum violence
Well 12 gauge and 50 cals are compatible everyone knows that, you can fire a 50BMG from a shotgun (dont). Maybe you can try feeding it into an M2 if you have one lying around.
A belt-feed system for shotguns would be ungodly based. Tubes have practical length limits that hinder capacity, box mags get finnicky past 5-10 rounds, and drums are a bulky and expensive nightmare that can fail easily, but a belt? If you give it a beefy feed system only the glorious Murder Cube knows how many rounds you could sling underneath in a belt box, for MAXIMUM DAKKA!
Shells do however pose a problem for belt feed mechanisms, for one you're going to have to use a pull-feed to strip rimmed rounds which doesnt seem easy to DIY (a lot of fine tuning of the metallurgy is required in parts like the feed claw, and there's a lot of precise camming surfaces) and you'll also have to make sure your feed mechanism doesnt severely dent or deform the plastic shells.
I've seen an image of a beltfed shotgun on here before
This video was posted in like 2009 and the guy never explained anything about it. It's since been removed but I'm sure mirrors exist
this makes my penis the big penis.
If you use it in a pump action, you can have unlimited links in NJ due to a loop hole in the law
Firearms with a bore over .50 are by default "destructive devices" regulated under the NFA.
There's an exception for shotguns found "generally recognized as particularly suitable for sporting purposes", and this exception is applied to virtually all shotguns, even relatively non-traditional designs.
However, in the '90s ATF ruled that a few specific shotguns, particularly revolving-cylinder types such as the Striker/Protecta/Street Sweeper, and also the USAS-12 (pic related from ATF ruling 1994-1), are not suitable for sporting purposes, and are thus DDs.
I'm unaware of any ATF determination for a belt-fed shotgun, but it's fairly likely that if such a thing did come to their attention, they'd determine it to be non-sporting and thus a DD. It would be hard to make one that would pass the criteria used for rejecting the USAS-12.
Some of the modern shotguns being allowed (e.g. Saigas and other box- or drum-mag shotguns) suggest that the criteria used for the USAS-12 are no longer being applied, so maybe it would be fine. But it's quite conceivable they'd trot them back out for a belt-fed.
I think with a more hunting/trap style barrel say 26-28" and semi-auto, or shorter with manual action the atf wouldnt have much gripe about it
Just claim it as a mass bird hunting device. Easy as.
>includes 3-round belt-box for migratory game birds, and 50-round belt-box for all others
bump
As long as it is semiautomatic, it.is 100% legal. If you want to have it fully automatic, you either have to modify a DShK to fire 12guage, and only have to fill out a form 1, or you would have to get an FFL, and make something that will fore 12guage fully automatically.
I am offocially a Bubba, I wonder when I'll get my certificate.
Like a rooster crest.
I don’t hate it
You don't know what a Bubba is.
Sorry, I posted gunsmithing in a 3d printing thread.
On the Ukraine board nonetheless
I'm such an idiot.
>god knows how he attached the rails with included screws (though it may be a professional drill and tap)
>one ring holding the scope on
He's not fully there but he's getting there. Yes you can use a scope with one ring but it's a scope being held with one fricking ring; I doubt it holds zero well for precise shooting if bumped. I've seen it done on air rifles to levels of somewhat concerning success, which usually means it's okay for a .22 but probably pushing it.
>don't I need...
For ammo, no, but big chains like Walmart is probably going to want to see ID and "hey I can't sell to person in (state/city), sorry, policy (if they know that)". Would probably not work for gun transfers, though how that works I have no clue. Probably anywhere around your state (or anyone in the gun business in general) would know the moment they needed your address. Note: I'm not that anon and I'm not saying you should do either.
The rails were made from a 300mm bar of 12mm square aluminium (6061 according to the seller). I "milled" the dimensions down using my drill press with worn out bearings and then used my bench grinder to get each rail down to about 7.3mm tall. Countersunk holes were drilled and the original screws that held the plastic rails on were used to attach the new "rails". And yes, I did manage to strip 2 of the sets of threads, I'm pretty sure the receiver of the little badger is cast zinc, its so fricking soft. I might get around to retapping them one day, but for now two effective screws and one as little more than support sjould be enough, it's not like I'm going to put anything other than a sling point and a light on the handguard. They were also drilled and tapped for some M6 screws to hold the airsoft handguard in place. They were then painted with birchwood casey aluminum black as I just didn't have the patience to set up a full anodising rig, but I would like to anodise them at some point.
The handguard is just some cheap piece of gel blaster/airsoft junk. Cut down to allow the longshot mfg top rail to be used. It was also hit with the blackenig solution.
The scope was purchased on ebay to replace the giant fricking 1-5x scope I had before that doubled the weight of the gun. I doubt it will even hold zero if it had 6 rings holding it in place but time will tell. The reason it only has the one ring is because the eye relief is so fricking close, I need the scope to sit further back, unfortunately all the shitty cantilever mounts I have are too wide to sit between the dials and the eyepiece and would still only be one attachment point. I will probably end up modifying a cantilever mount to have the scope sit further back but it will likely be a single point connection. I figured if it's good enough for some red dot mounts on AR's, it should be good enough on this little piece of shit.
Apparently I never took a photo of the finished rails.
Also English is not my second language, I'm just phoneposting and I suck at typing on it. I might also have a bit of the tism and over explain shit.
Scope size comparison. The old one was a behemoth, if I'd known it was going to be that big I wouldn't have bought it.
And in case anyone is wondering, yes, I am this moron.
>And yes, I did manage to strip 2 of the sets of threads, I'm pretty sure the receiver of the little badger is cast zinc, its so fricking soft. I might get around to retapping them one day
Helicoils? They're apparently stronger than the original threads even according to Project Farm.
I had never heard of these before, I'll look into it, thanks.
I've never used or seen helicoils that small, but I've used 5/16 up to 3/4 for repairing cars old and new with broken bolts and stripped threads, they are a god send and far stouter than either cast iron or aluminum. Can't recommend enough for threads you dont want to budge in your lifetime
I do love project farm's autistic level of detail.
But yeah it does seem they don't make them that small. For now they are loctited in place and captured beneath the handguard so even if they were to back out, they wouldn't fall out.
Pic related, the stripped holes are at the very rear of the handguard next to the rear visible bolt.
I would just find new bolts up a size and tap the pitch for whatever I have, if you have to get new bolts then tap for the same pitch, but thats just my workshop
Yeah, I will likely do thst at some point, or I'll forget and leave it as it is.
Do you know the diameter of the screws? You can get down to 2 mm inserts on McMaster. Also if you are searching, "threaded inserts" will bring up a wider range of products that fill that role than "helicoil"
https://www.thefirearmblog.com/blog/2019/08/13/make-a-factory-quality-9mm-rifled-barrel-in-your-kitchen-using-salt-water-and-electricity-ecm/
>starting with smooth bore barrel blank
the only source of 9mm steel tubes is the one seller on aliexpress/ebay kek
>bro i made a barrel!
no, you rifled existing barrel blank ("""explosion proof tubing""")
I feel like this would only be worthwhile in a country you could not obtain the things you need to rifle a barrel by hand
Buy bar stock in the appropriate steel, and drill it out with hobbyist drill press.
>implying you will be able to maintain any degree of concentricity with a fricking drill press
Not that anon but i have a potential fix for the barrel problem. You're going to have to wait for however long it takes for me to figure out the design properly though.
Well, in theory at least. No promises
You’re sitting on a multi million dollar solution for industrial uses if you’ve figured out a way to drill precise holes without truing them later or using expensive equipment.
Doubt it
Just make a smoothbore, shotgun shells are even easier to reload anyway.
you can't make a smooth bore 9mm, that's a NFA item
why do you think printgays shill the ecm rifling so hard, they're all based in the US and are scared of jail lol
Dumb question, but how hard is it to put irons on a rifle? Bought a savage axis off my neighbor and wish it had irons, but I also can't see spending to much on a $150 rifle. Is there something I can do myself or is this something I'd have to have a gunsmith do for me? If so how much am I looking to spend on this?
>tfw I was supposed to build a .338 for some guy like a year ago but I keep putting it off because I'm afraid of fricking up
the hardest part will be actually finding iron sights that fit the gun. if you bought a modern hunting rifle and there isn't a version with an identical barrel contour that comes with iron sights then they probably don't exist and you will have to make them or steal ones from another model and try to adapt them to fit yours. then it's a matter of either brazing them on, or using some combination of dovetails or tapped holes to attach them.
midway has a bunch of generic sight ramps with different curves for different sizes of barrel. They generally attach with screws and have a standardized dovetail machined into them. You'd need to drill and tap a shallow hole or two, which means getting a blind tap if you don't already have one. I'm in the same boat on my own gun, a ruger charger I got a williams firesight set for, and nodak spud made the perfect band-type front sight but then got bought and the new owner hadn't started production back up last I checked.
>then it's a matter of either brazing them on
Why wouldn't you silver solder? No joking around, dead serious. Unless you mean something that doesn't go completely around the barrel unlike
. Though I'm always up to learn no matter which you meant. I just think brazing is really hard to clean up, isn't it?
you'll have to fit them to the barrel contour either by machine or hand whichever you suck less at. they'll have to get attached either fasteners so drilling and tapping the barrel or soldering them on which will probably leave the barrel needing refinished .
they'd be bases that you put sights on, easiest way since you could mostly frick with the front sight to get it zeroed
I'd go necg for the all the sight parts
How to make a crude trigger for a singleshot 22 lr? Completely new to this, are there any good online guides?
just got in this winchester 190 new old stock replacement receiver, and the recoil spring tube has a bunch of voids in the aluminum. I got it off gb and don't want to frick around with sending it back, so what can I do to fix it? My thoughts so far are a syringe with jb weld to fill the voids and then smoothing it all out, or find a sleeve with the same i.d. and drill the receiver out to fit it, or just run the damn recoil spring on the aluminum and let it wear in the way it is. On the current gun with a cracked receiver that I'm replacing, you have to pack a ~8 inch spring into this 2" long hole to fit the bolt back in after cleaning, it's kind of a b***h already and I don't think there are voids in the old receiver. Each option I have sucks lol. Any thoughts?
I mean, you can always have it reamed out and a repair thread section put in (helicoil if they even make it in that threading?) and have the smooth walled hole reamed out and lined but I wouldn't touch it, just clean it and most importantly, use an aluminum compatible grease/oil in those areas if you use some. For example, IIRC graphite is not. And maybe also molybdinum? It's been a while, I don't work with either much.
I'd clean with a barrel brush and grease what needs to be greased. That one pit in the middle of the left hole, center photo, though, looks a bit dark. Is that a reamed hole or is it that pitted? It's fricking black.
those are all pits, there's probably 8 of them, my phone is shit for pictures though. I could probably pack a full cubic centimeter of jb weld into the pits, drag the extra out with a worn out barrel brush or something, and then ream it once it dries. The ream & sleeve would be the best repair I think. It's for my first gun ever, my dad gave it to me and I've had it in my closet since I was ten, and a child molester once killed himself with it. It's worth doing right I think.
>a child molester once killed himself with it
lol based
Have heard that the best use for 3d printing is for making jigs but i haven't seen any posted.
Got called a lot of names for saying that very idea to the fosscad/fgc9 guys.
They have their heads way too far up their own asses for guys that only improved upon an existing design.
The FGC-9 bolt is made by using 3d printed parts as jigs for accurate drilling. What the frick?
Either way, the Chonk-15 design is based around a 3d printed jig to mill a tube into the inside diameter of an AR, then "overmold" the metal with a 3d printed receiver to attach it to a lower.
cool asbestos floor tiles
the pictures are from leddit, though
the guy developing the Chonk-15 deleted the posts showing the internals
>still uses AR bolt and barrel
what's the point of this?
Fun probably, that's the only reason behind most of this. Also autism
ECM rifling jig
Oh. Neat.
which one is this? Genuinely curious, I've been seeing a lot of AR builds.
It's an FGC-9.
IL gay here. Waiting on my FOID so I can buy ammo.
If I were to build some guns using my shop, what calibers should I aim for?
9mm, 22lr, .308 and of course 5.56. That said, dude, just go buy it in another state. Like literally every other state held hostage by blue city gays.
Plenty of glock kits, ar kits, the cetme kits are available as well.
>go buy in another state
Don't I need a firearm license to buy elsewhere tho?
No. Shocker, but the 2nd amendment means that you're not prevented from buying guns or ammunition without the government knowing. That's only in states that have been subverted by democrat corruption havens who insist upon infringing the God given right of all Americans to buy whatever they so choose. Even in Commiefornia you don't have to have a license to buy ammo. You have to have a background check which is currently in a court case, but until 2020 you could buy ammunition in California with no strings attached. Literally, they cannot stop someone from just driving out of state, then driving back in state with bricks of ammo. They might "ban" it, but who the frick is gonna know you drove to pick up 10k rounds of 22lr to plink with on your bumfrick nowhere property?
>God given right of all Americans to buy whatever they so choose
what it really is is the God-given DUTY to keep yourself alive on a planet filled with murderous bandits and man-eating carnivorous beasts. Good guys have to be dangerous too.
God I hate living in this cucked state
Hey, it's just a matter of time until the courts sort out the whole deal with Bruen and these restrictions go away forever. Never should have taken this long, but things always get better. The FOID card will also eventually be revealed for the fricked up and useless piece of scrap it is.
shall not be infringed my dude, it's morally acceptable to skirt illegal laws
visit small stores that need your business, if they ask if you're a resident say yes, and if they ask to see your id you forgot it. If they drag their feet they lose your business and you try the next store.
If you're from a cuck state the FFL probably won't sell to you soon as you pull out your driver's license.
I assumed he meant person to person sales which do not require an ffl in many states. You are correct with regards to a dealer purchase as far as I'm aware.
hmm I have a cetme 308 kit I havent built out yet. Maybe I'll snag a cetme L kit too
I have a few questions.
>what are some cool parts kits that are still out there for reasonable prices?
>Does anybody make a stand alone 9mm ak receiver? Childers doesn't have anything in 9mm.
>I want to make a 7 barrel 12g like that one anon. How do I make the trigger/firing pin mechanism?
Has anyone worked with the hybrid smg design that's available on the gatalog? I'm wondering just how the whole thing functions, because I'd love to be able to cannibalize that, the fgc9 stingray and slap together a proper rifle that works off of .350 l'gend to solve the whole lack of rifle due to bottleneck problem.
>Not making boxes of dildo styled guns and taking them to buy backs.
Why hasn't this happened yet?
I'm a bit of a smithy myself
what suppressor is that?
Rails up or rails down?
Learned how to stain wood and found some weird 42 round mags
idk what feeling this gives me and idk if i like it or not.
>its smug aura haunts me.
Printed stock? looks real until you see layer lines. ia that a star head screw instead of a hex bolt? i wish it was counter sunk. 8/10 I love wood and extended mags on ar.
Yeah, wood filament with a stain on both the stock and foregrip. The bolt on the foregrip is a regular hex bolt head though
I like it good aesthetic.
Where can i get a 410 shotgun barrel for a simple project? It's literally just a fancy pipe gun.
just go to your local shotgun barrel pipe store
Didn't realize this was 'muh sekrit club'.
Ill just go and stay go then. Cant have us plebs in your hobby after all.
Kinda hard to help when you have given no information about where you live or anything really
My brother in Christ, we're telling you to go to your lgs and just buy one, it's not rocket science.
>how do I as a gunsmith make x
>go to your lgs and just buy one
Such expertise. I bet all those malaysian freedom fighters and europoors really appreciate this wisdom
All that was asked was where to get a barrel, and that information was provided. If the question was, instead "Hey, how do I make a barrel for a .410 shotgun from scratch?" or "What sort of pipe should I look for to use as a barrel in a .410 shotgun for a restrictive country/region?" then that is different. It's no different from asking "where do I buy a hammer" and getting pissed when people tell you to go to the hardware store instead of explaining how you forge one out of rebar and melted down railroad spikes. If you want specific information, ask for specific information, don't just be vague and nebulous with your fricking query.
>don't just be vague and nebulous with your fricking query.
I would imagine the people that are vauge are so for a reason. I seriously doubt that it was an american asking.
Speaking as a burger, burgers are some of the biggest morons as well as the biggest savants. It would not surprise me that a fellow burger doesn't know you can just go get a barrel from a shop. Now, if said person was wondering where they could source a barrel from somewhere other than a store, that's also an acceptable question, and plenty of people will be able to tell them to get either hydraulic tubing or "explosion proof pipes".
>as well as the biggest savants
Most of their smart people are imported, since they can make the most money there.
This thread is great, I got a lot of advice and suggestions from anons.
They are on ebay yiy dumb monkey.
Literally just go buy a barrel from a store.
Anybody have experience or advice for making your own flatsprings? After getting it in shape what is the best way to temper spring steel? Quench or no? I have asked around with some of my machinist buddies but gotten different answers, though none of them have made flat springs of firearm strength before
>After getting it in shape what is the best way to temper spring steel? Quench or no? I have asked around with some of my machinist buddies but gotten different answers, though none of them have made flat springs of firearm strength before
It depends on what exact alloy you're using. Most spring steels need to be quenched and then tempered, however, it's just a matter of whether an oil or water Q and what temps you hold it at.
>trying to solve the problem of attaching a barrel and gas system to a printed upper and not have it sag after heating up.
I still say we should be at least trying the Lewis GPMG route and making some brackets in the forend that hold cheap aluminum flashing from the hardware store as dissipators/radiators, plus a force-air cooling system that works off the remaining gas. It's certainly bulky and stupid, but even mounting a CPU fan ducted up under the forend and running off the same battery pack as his weapon light did a lot for one of my buddy's prototypes, dropped barrel temps by like 20-30°F in 10-round strings. He also had some luck by soldering on a couple of zinc CPU radiators to either side of the gas block, which is not much of a solution long-term (because of hte inevitable corrosion) but keeps it from sagging on a hot day and a couple mag dumps.
You could even print or buy one of those airsoft handguard grips where you can put a LIPO battery on them, with that you would have power for basically days for spinning some small fans on them.
Maybe an even better idea would be to do a CAD design that integrate several fans on the top similar to what even your regular 3d printer comes with.
Yet obviously the best solution would be a quick detachable barrel, so you drop the other one on a cooling surface or in water like on the GITS movie.
I've made a couple. after you get the shape right you need to heat it red hot until it's not magnetic and then quench it. then you want to polish it again and temper it to a blue color. for that you can try using a bath of something like niter salts or molten lead, or you can just heat it with a torch.
Eastern Euro anon here, getting a creality ender pro soon, what else do I need? Where can I get started on all this and do I need to be like autisticly smart to figure it out because Im not really that bright with such things
If you're trying to design things from scratch? Yeah you're going to need some skills. You're just going to download the files? The guides are usually detailed.
I prefer the Bill Holmes/Professor Parabellum approach myself
https://t.me/Guerrillaclub
>gunsmithing
>sanding and assembling plastic
Christ
Reverse engineering a couple hi power parts for fun using “education only” software from school
i paid for it I’m gonna use it
>software
>i paid for it
In my tuition I mean
I’d borrow a copy if I didn’t have access to it now
What do I make?
Start off with the calibration test print thing.
Aside from a benchy this is my first real print, going to start a v3 build, any reqs on uppers? I'm currently noguns
NTAYRT, but go get a PSA AR kit, then start trying out the various lowers for them. I rec you start with the Firebolt and see how that works out for you.
I'll add that to my list
Any one got recommendations for decent glock slides? Budget to baller whatever is good value, making a 19, should be done in the am
budget: can't go wrong with AimSurplus. Great options for the price (check out their parts kits too). Brownells (on sale) is nice also. 3CR Tactical gets them in on a pretty consistent sale price it seems, dunno about shipping.
Baller, the world is your oyster I guess. Pick a model you like and go from there
Is rails down, 10 degrees forward the new meta?
bump
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You can at least try to fake some content in your post to keep the thread alive.
bump
I did 10 degrees forward with the 19 and 10 degrees back with the 17. 19 printed in 9.5hrs and the 17 in 7.25hrs with the same quality, not sure if the different grip textures affect time though as the 19's texture is much finer.
I would recommend also printing a calibration cube, (1 x 1 x 1) to confirm your printer's dimensional accuracy. This is really important for parts that need to fit together and particularly when they are being coupled with non printed parts. This also means that unless it is dialed in, print orientation can affect your dimensional accuracy.
bomp
This is kind of a meme, but why hasn't anybody tried 3d printing an SKS? obviously it's almost more of a meme but why not? If we can print MP5s and ARs. Is it the built in magazine? lack of parts?
With the amount of effort that would be required to do that, you might as well just make your own milled receiver. And yes 3D printing makes making guns more accessible but not many people would be making them even if it were accessible. Just a few nerds. Like with that 3D printed Cetme or AKM
yeah that's about what I figured. involving a lathe misses the point of a 3d printed gun.
I am a no Gun Neet
whats the best way to start leaning about guns and gun smiting?
online resources, pdfs, simple beginner project, tools?
go buy an abused gun that has not seen a drop of oil since 1982 and been riding around in bubba truck. Tear it down figure out what is broken or missing and either buy new parts or repair them and boom yah statred gunsmithing.
scratch that go buy a 22lr rifle or a maverick 88 and start there. Trying to repair guns when you know jackshit about them is not very good way to start.
Here homie
https://archive.org/details/folkscanomy_defense
Thanks man I will definitely look over these book
That makes alot of sense fixing an old gun seem like hard mode compared to a factory new
I think i will get one for a restoration project once I have some basics
>That makes alot of sense fixing an old gun seem like hard mode compared to a factory new
It's kind of the point, you learn best by doing challenging shit and fricking it up badly, not by playing with legos for an hour and wandering off. All of us have a couple busted guns in the shed that we thought we could fix easy and then learned Important Gunsmithing Lessons about. (Lesson 1: if a gun is missing a part that looks like an easy fix, look around to see if you can buy it BEFORE YOU BUY THE FRICKING GUN. Lesson 2: Get a parts diagram before you buy it. Lesson 3: All used blackpowder firearms are loaded, especially if the ramrod is broken. Proceed accordingly).
Although I do recommend you take apart something cheap, put it back together, and do your damnedest to work out why and how it does what it does. After a while you'll start to understand why Greener's autowienerer here
is straightup hardcore pornography to an engineer.
fricking REEE someone explain why that design is so le genius
I'd love to see an animation of this in action. Incredible what some of these designers were able to accomplish
why does the dogfricker keep repeating blatant lies he's been corrected on in previous threads
3d printing stamp forms for making receiver flats seem like a thing that might be doable?
Works for CETMEs. IIRC this was on a CETME build guide.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4614385
And this one just showed up in a search which is neat:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3707449
Just search "CETME".
Oh shit you mean actually stamping them out of sheetmetal, not bending flats, don't you? Frick. Yeah, it may be doable. Stuff Made Here did it with wood. Perhaps you could do it with printed plastic. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IcjgrB9vTec
Yeah. Saw an article about stamping other metal things with a 3d printed mold should be possible for guns as well.
Putting down a paper schematic on the metal and drilling the holes first so you can use them to center it properly.
Most of the pps-43 is just stamped metal so there's no reason why not.
Though the article did mention issues of the mold breaking with repeat use but you could probably just make a silicone mold out of it and make a hardier resin copy if it's that much of an issue.
>Though the article did mention issues of the mold breaking with repeat use but you could probably just make a silicone mold out of it and make a hardier resin copy if it's that much of an issue.
Why wouldn't you just cast an aluminum version of it using lost PLA then? Resin and silicone is $$$ and resin is usually either a hair soft or a hair brittle.
I'm not planning on doing either but also I'm talking about the stamping thing because it imo has a lot more potential than casting in metal which tends to be unreliable when it comes to bubbles and other such issues.
Also it's what's tickling my autism rn.
You can cast your stamping molds using lost PLA is what I'm saying. Aluminum may not last long when used for stamping steel sheets into flats, but I feel it'd last longer than printed plastic. That way, yes, you have to cast once, but once you're done casting and cleaning up your stamping dies using lost PLA, it's much more solid and likely to last you a long time compared to printing stamping dies all the time with PLA (which you really have to print near solid if not solid, are huge, take forever to print, etc). I've never tried either but I think you could make it work.
Ah yeah that makes more sense. Thought you meant casting the parts themselves.
Should work better than with plastic or resin though might take a few pours to get right and maybe there's a risk of the aluminium deforming but i don't know enough about the topic to say.
You can actually do pretty well with just 8 or so walls of layer thickness and a reasonable infill percentage for stamping dies. Makes consumable dies much more feasible.
Anyone have a chart over the recommend barrel lengths of various calibers? Max, min, etc.
look up "ballistics by the inch" and see where you think the break even point is.
I think the Chonk-15 guy used aluminum tape inside the printed handguard and it helped, he seems to have switched to a router-made aluminum handguard though
Could probably be used to put together an image that shows a list of the most common cals and the recommended length.
Tried drilling the rear trunnion holes for this and majorly fricked up on one of them. The trunnion wasn't 100% secure in the jig and slipped when I slid the receiver back on to drill [very tight fit]. The one above it is a little dodgy too, but I'm pretty sure it'll be okay. The holes on the opposite side are perfect and rivets fit through them very snugly. Haven't dimpled the holes yet because I need advice.
Is this fatal? Or is having one cruddy rivet hole on the rear trunnion okay? I'd hate having to pay and wait for another receiver to try again, and I'm not sure who to ask or where to go to potentially get the hole filled back in and fixed.
>Is this fatal? Or is having one cruddy rivet hole on the rear trunnion okay
If you're riveting, the rivet is supposed to swell as you beat the shit out of it and fill the hole. It's not just grabbing the ends, it's also upsetting into all the parts where the hole wanders. Would I trust that one? Depends on how deep the chunk you took out is. If you're super stressed drop some weld in it and call it a day.
The trunnion is a little scratched but otherwise fine, so the hole itself is really about 1mm deep since it's only through the receiver. I don't have easy access to a welder, unfortunately, but I'll keep that in mind.
I guess the 'easy' fix would just be smushing the rivet with the factory head on the opposite side, so the side being formed is more likely to squish out into the hole. Then hoping it doesn't start to work itself forwards over time.
Thanks! That sorta backs up the thought I had up there, using the non-factory end being formed to fill out the missing metal. If I can't find someone to tack some weld on it so I can try again, I might just give it a shot as it is.
I wish it were pretty, but I'll settle for safe.
Welding will always create pockets of fricky heat treatment that can create cracking down the line. So you need to balance out that with the question of whether a slightly egged-out hole is gonna let your trunnion slip or not. If it's only 1mm deep, I wouldn't bother.
>fricking REEE someone explain why that design is so le genius
Greener's autowienerer? Count the number of parts. Count the number of spring. I say spring because there's only one (plus one farther back in the trigger). Look at what it's all actually doing in the gun, and how neatly it fits into the available space in the lockwork.
>A single part is the hammer, striker, sear, and wienering lever, with one pin and only four working surfaces
>the stud that lifts the wienering arm is also an out-of-battery safety AND part of the auto-ejection system
>one single, smooth action on five parts resets the trigger, wieners the hammer, and ejects the shells
>You can safely and easily dewiener the action by opening the gun and closing it with the trigger depressesed
>no exposed parts other than the ejector and trigger
>Those fricking voluptuous curves
It's UTTER FILTH. It's the difference between a program that does the work with sixteen interesting but isolated subroutines in a thousand lines of code and one that does the same job with fifty perfectly-crafted lines and a couple of arrays.
You can find animations of the Martini-Henry (and cutaway rifles being operated on video) pretty easily.
>Welding will always create pockets of fricky heat treatment
Fug, that's a good point. I might as well use it as-is then since the other three holes are either spot on or good enough.
Greener had nothing to do with that rifle design.
>that rifle design
We're talking about
, right?
I had only gone back as far as the Martini pic.
Greener also did not deign the boxlock action though.
The action is an Anson&Deeley design as patented by their employer Westley Richards. Greener made the design under license then slightly changed the wienering arm, stopped paying royalties, and filed his own patent.
When sued he used his gov. contacts from the ordnance boards and superior bankroll to simple steamroll Richards. He then wrote his own book. The bulk of Greener's actual patent designs were simple things like safeties and locking mechanisms, and the British patent for choke boring (completely ignoring anything from the former colonies).
Webley did much the same with his revolver design. Stole the bulk of it from someone who had stolen designs from several Belgians.
..that's kind of hilarious. And also explains the really long whiny diatribe about several of his lawsuits in the middle of the actions chapter.
I've improperly replaced, fixed, and then re-replaced rear trunnions on the same reciever and egged out two of the holes on my AK, but it still holds solid now. my only advice is to smash that rivet like a fricking pancake (not all the way flat, but *really* smoosh it in) if you want it to hold. Rivets are soft metal and will squish down into any imperfections either in the trunnion or reciever itself.
Just put a PSA complete lower onto an Anderson complete upper, if I send a picture to SDI will then send my gunsmith cert in the mail
You're basically John Browning at this point for inventing the AR, no cert needed. Just start advertising your gunsmith/gun designer services on craigslist.
you're laughing but I think their final project is actually just putting an ar together. I work at a gun shop and some guy brought in an ar-10 lower with the buffer detent somehow jammed in the hole. he explained that he really needed it unstuck because it was for his online gunsmithing course. I said shouldn't you be fixing it then but he said all he had to do was put it together. I know he's ngmi because he didn't even ask how I did it when he came back to pick it up.
The guy described in your story will literally be doing what I suggested here
I really should get started at working on my guns but I'm having a hard time bringing myself to do it.
5 guns and they all need various amounts of work.
What are some entry level skills i should learn to be a comfy gunsmith bros. Ive been practicing re-profiling A2 lowers to A1 and wanting to rebarrel old revolvers and rifles also gonna plan on doing checkering and other wood shit. I have customer service shit and web design but i dont want to be a total moron when i show up to this one place that takes up apprentices
In 23 btw
self-reply but I forgot to add I'm trans also if that matters
People who are suicidal should not have firearms. Also YWNBAW
single point threading on a lathe
picking up holes with a test indicator
cutting flat surfaces with a file
inletting square corners with a chisel
>How to home build a bolt/gas system/locking system for an intermediate cartridge without a lathe or mill?
This is the holy grail of the 3d gun movement
So ak and cetme flats are a thing i know of. How many other kinds are there?
RIP first printed frame I was able to fit rails into. I'll try to clearance my pin holes more.
Wrong shape or wrong place?
Little of column A, little of column B. I'm trying to get polycarbonate to work and it shrinks like a motherfricker. I don't particularly care too much about it because I'm going to make a point of buying PLA+ in the future.
>lose shitty coil spring from shitty taurus
>can't find a replacement so make a flat spring to replace it
I sure hope this works at least long enough to get it out the door
can you make glocks out of clear purple nintendo plastic yet?
look into push plastic cf nylon
Would Americans be interested in a 3D printable Norinco NP762 frame? I’m thinking of doing a cad drawing of the frame. If anyone wants it we can figure that out but I’m not going to make any myself.
Go for it, the more the merrier
Sure!
Any resources on how to make muskets and other muzzle loaders? Id do mre modern guns butttt glowies gonna glow and i do like them old gunz
go through this guy's playlists. he's got some good stuff
https://youtube.com/@homemadehistory7537
Not for much longer 🙁
that's why things like yt-dlp exist. Always save the stuff you like you never know when it'll get dissapeared
That's true, but man I'm tired of having to buy more storage.
Have you seen how cheap hard drives are? My god, SSDs are down to what HDDs were in like 2013. $60/TB or less for SSDs IIRC. HDDs even lower. I've been sitting on a 120/150gb SSD nearly unused until recently and I remember it being like $75 or whatever it was a couple years back, and that was on sale at that.
Yeah, 300 doll hairs for 20 TB. I need about 4 of them.
I like big bolts and I cannot lie.
I like it.
This is a diy build? Also .50bmg?
yes on both counts, an anon posted it long ago
same anon?
One idea I haven't seen proposed that I've been ruminating on, is instead of 3d printing parts, either to directly use or as a lost cast, just print a mold negative (or make one from silicone) and cast parts using glass reinforced polyurethane that's available everywhere. Not as robust as aluminum, but probably a million times better than plastic printed parts, and you can reuse the mold. I've tried to find anyone who has tried this with no luck.
We already have nylon anon.
Injection molding would allow for more precise parts as well as it being fast.
Worth exploring imo.
Injection molding is to the point where you may as well just get a lathe.
buy a used haas mini mill with a 4th axis and build all the parts you want. If you are in US, you don't need to worry about rifling or reaming chambers.
Injection molding is coming more and more into the realm of diy lately.
I'm specifically not talking about using thermoplastics because of heat and hardness/strength, which my understanding is where a lot of the problems with 3d printed gun parts come from. Polyurethane can't melt, and once set, stays hard and isn't really flexible.
I see. Worth a try. You should go for it.
Anyone up for creating a new thread? I'll bump to keep it alive.