gunsmithing thread

wasnt there a general for this? anyway, gunsmithing thread, aussie shitposter with 3d printed guns edition

  1. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    bump

    • 3 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      Huh, I thought this thread had died. Thanks for saving it, I guess.

      I've never seen any 3d printing fags make molds and cast parts, is there a good reason not to?

      There are people working on it. Mainly they are working on getting parts consistently of the same dimensions because with the current methods you dont get the exact same size.

      Sorry op, only russo-ukranian threads are allowed

      OP here, I have made plenty of russo ukrainian threads because the war is the most interesting weapon related thing to happen in decades, so instead of being a gay you can try to enjoy things, and make threads of your own to talk about things that you want talked about.

      • 3 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        >the most interesting weapon related thing to happen in decades
        It would be interesting if 3/4 of the threads weren't the equivalent of hearing a random stranger have an episode of explosive diarrhoea in a public bathroom along with there being +20 threads about the shit.
        It's should be limited to a certain amount of threads or kept in one general to prevent shit flooding.

  2. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    Finally got a lathe. Seems to work fine. Gonna do dumb shit with some very nice steel I scrounged from a sawmill.

    • 3 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      Cool shit, interested in the final product

  3. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    Sorry op, only russo-ukranian threads are allowed

  4. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    I'm finally getting a pa12 sls 3D printer. Would I be the first person with a sls printed fgc-9 and other printed guns?

    • 3 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      No, and you won't be the first person to blow-up a sls project either.

    • 3 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      Anon, I'm gonna tell you that sls is for minis, not for gats. Don't even fucking try it, you'll fucking hurt yourself.

      • 3 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        Don't worry I know what I'm doing (famous last words) I do this kinda stuff (not guns though) as work for a university.

        • 3 weeks ago
          Anonymous

          No, anon, this is legit like building a frame out of papier mache, this isn't a matter of anything but material strength and photoresin is nowhere near capable of what you're going to attempt.

          • 3 weeks ago
            Anonymous

            Sls (selective laser sintering) is nylon powder not photo resin. They are 100% solid structural parts I already use in industrial machines. You might be confusing it with dlp or sla printing.

            • 3 weeks ago
              Anonymous

              Oh fuck, my bad. Now I feel a fool. Well, if nylon can work out there, that might be a good idea. You have any resources for functional printing examples?

              https://i.imgur.com/bZW3QzY.jpg

              Going to start on a new project today. Modifying this bad boy for belt feed

              But why?

              • 3 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                Well if you watch stuff made here he uses sls parts in all of his builds. But also bond tech uses it for all their extruders and I've never had a problem with it breaking

              • 3 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                New challenge. I might mock up the 9mm links and pawl on some sch40 pipe to see how it goes first. either way, It should be fun

          • 3 weeks ago
            Anonymous

            Oh fuck, my bad. Now I feel a fool. Well, if nylon can work out there, that might be a good idea. You have any resources for functional printing examples?

            [...]
            But why?

            There are pricier options. I mean you would've spent that kind of cash on a semi-full auto, why not spend it on an industrial grade manufacturing machine for parts that might need to be metal?

            I read your post on Nylon, still just trying to be helpful.
            T. American.

            • 3 weeks ago
              Anonymous

              I was just reading that some company came out with metal filament that can be used in regular printers.

              • 3 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                yeah it's metal particles in plastic. you burn off the plastic in a kiln and then sinter the part together and get a metal part. it warps and deforms due to the fact that the plastic burns off. it is interesting, regardless.

    • 3 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      I just used mine to print a vz.61 receiver in castable resin, does that count? I cast it in zamak and aside from a single cosmetic flaw it worked perfectly

      • 3 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        No because that's still dlp or sla, I'm doing sls nylon powder.

        • 3 weeks ago
          Anonymous

          You're right, my mistake. Post results I want to see how it goes. You should fire it with a string the first few times haha

          • 3 weeks ago
            Anonymous

            European here I can only do that safely during thew years masked by the fireworks

            • 3 weeks ago
              Anonymous

              If you make a 22lr firearm with a threaded barrel and a suppressor to accompany it I promise it will be quiet enough that nobody will suspect anything for a shot or two if you use subsonic ammo.

              • 3 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                We'll see, first I'll have to actually build the machine (around 3000 euros)

              • 3 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                Good luck friend

      • 3 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        Did you follow a tutorial? I’ve been thinking about printing a receiver for my vz 61 kit but casting might be better for longevity.

        • 3 weeks ago
          Anonymous

          Nope, I had to figure it all out on my own.

          https://i.imgur.com/tgr5PcV.jpg

          What model did you use? I know there was that ancient one floating around for years that used the og vz61 FCG and the more recent CZAR from DD that uses an AR FCG. What kind of process did you use for casting?

          I made my own copy based off the schematics and taking measurements off a cut receiver. It is not quite ready for public release unfortunately. I don't want to release it until it is perfect. It is 95% of the way there and I will post it here when it is done. Unfortunately I am not an SOT so it is semi-auto but someone with the ability to make post samples could easily modify the model.
          The casting process I am using is printing it in castable resin and then using R&R plasticast in a loaf pan that is the perfect size for the receiver. My vacuum chamber is not quite big enough to fit the mold after pouring but I have had decent results with vibrating it, I may purchase a larger one to fix this. I then place it in my kiln for the burnout as you would any other wax casting. I am casting using zamak 12 currently but also have zamak 5. The weird lines you see in the picture are to aid with the casting process and are removed afterword - the thin areas have needed some help to get the metal in there. If I had a larger vacuum chamber I am sure I could remove most of these.

          • 3 weeks ago
            Anonymous

            https://i.imgur.com/Nd6ldnt.jpg

            [...]
            [...]

            I get fairly accurate results that are dimensionally close enough to not need machining beyond drilling out the pin holes etc. The rough finish in this photograph is highly exaggerated by the flash, but this is with no clean up or polishing at all. I also cast with the mold at 500 to try and get the metal to flow into the small spaced with greatly effected the finish. But the casting has no porosity and it is solid enough that I trust it to not break. I am refining the model and my process currently but I am very close to a good end product. If I buy the larger vacuum chamber I am certain it would look much better. I don't get lots of time to work on this stuff so I have been delaying.
            Don't be so discouraging - casting can work if you buy/build the proper equipment. The bad results I am seeing are always caused by people trying to shortcut the process. You just can't do that, it needs to be done properly.

            For anyone interested I will be casting another this weekend and will post results if the thread is still around in a couple days.

            Noice
            >buy the larger vacuum chamber
            Saw a thread on diy the other day about how to build one on the cheap. Thing it was in a thread about garden gnomeellery.

            • 3 weeks ago
              Anonymous

              I'll see if I can dig it up

              Looks good anon.
              But my point is that for example you still need the factory stamped steel upper and the bolt. Casting would be a way to unlock progress - we can already print the lower, casting can get you a stronger product but that's the upgrade to a solved problem. Right now the problems are bolts, specifically locking ones, and attaching barrels to receivers.
              Casting barrel sleeves to decrease heat damage to a printed receiver is probably the next step. But I don't see core parts being cast in the future FGC-5.56 or 7.62

              Dream bigger. New designs are the way around these problems, ones that use readily available materials and simplified designs. Why must the entire product be cast? Simply design bolts that can be made with bar stock a cheap drill press and some printed jigs. If the caliber is kept reasonable then the barrel can simply be threaded and pinned to a cast receiver, or a simple trunnion could be designed to be made with the drill press as above that is then attached to the casting.

              • 3 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                I'm not proposing that the entire thing has to be cast, the issue is that we have types of parts that can be done through expedient means and those that can't.
                Bar stock is what the FGC-9 uses. Like I said, there's solved problems. What problem hasn't been solved yet that casting could solve?
                The Amigo Grande uses a clamshell to hold the trunnion, and bolts lock it into the printed receiver. So again, solved problems. We don't need to cast a receiver when we can print it, and bolt barrels/sleeves of some sort to threaded inserts.
                So to answer to anon's

                I've never seen any 3d printing fags make molds and cast parts, is there a good reason not to?

                question of why 3d print fags are rarely seen casting stuff - they either buy factory parts or use bar stock/tubing to make parts. Anything they need that could be cast they're using commercially available steel and hacking and drilling it into shape, anything that could be printed they print instead of casting. This isn't to say casting is a fruitless endeavor, but it's a side road that doesn't move the 3d printing movement forward - at least right now.

              • 3 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                The heat and durability continues to be and always will be a problem for these PLA designs. This is not a solved problem at all. When someone in Arizona can leave the printed gun in their car in the summer and then take it out and mag dump a half dozen magazines with no worry that is the point I would consider these problems solved.

              • 3 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                To add, these are still useful firearms. But they are not perfect. And for many applications they are unsuitable. We should strive towards designs that have no limitations. Not intending to be overly negative.

              • 3 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                The heat and durability continues to be and always will be a problem for these PLA designs. This is not a solved problem at all. When someone in Arizona can leave the printed gun in their car in the summer and then take it out and mag dump a half dozen magazines with no worry that is the point I would consider these problems solved.

                If you are that committed to that particular performance metric just make a high temp printer and make it out of high temp engineering material.

              • 3 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                That is very expensive, I thought the goal is affordable homemade firearms that can be made anywhere. I am not advocating for expensive set-ups like my own, designs that use traditional sand casting would be ideal. The mold patterns for a receiver could be printed easily and then cast with minimal post processing work if the design was intended for it. Same for fire control groups etc.

              • 3 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                That is very expensive, I thought the goal is affordable homemade firearms that can be made anywhere. I am not advocating for expensive set-ups like my own, designs that use traditional sand casting would be ideal. The mold patterns for a receiver could be printed easily and then cast with minimal post processing work if the design was intended for it. Same for fire control groups etc.

                What about high temperature thermoset composites, cast in silicone molds and cured in a bomb vessel? You could make the mold positives from almost anything, even a chunk of soap would work.

              • 3 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                I would love to see development in this area. It is something I have thought about before. I really think that people are too focused on directly printing parts because it is quicker and easier when the focus should be on stuff like you suggest or as

                Have heard that the best use for 3d printing is for making jigs but i haven't seen any posted.

                said.

              • 3 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                Previously I have seen a grip cast in resin for a revolver by someone here and a ks-23 foreend by Kjaskaar

              • 3 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                I plan on doing this in the future and it's going to potentially make some people upset.

                Got called a lot of names for saying that very idea to the fosscad/fgc9 guys.

                They have their heads way too far up their own asses for guys that only improved upon an existing design.

                I have only heard bad things about those people so anyhow so don't feel bad about it.
                Post some jigs tho. I'm not even sure what jigs mean but i imagine it's like a form shape type of thing that you can shape metal against.

              • 3 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                >I plan on doing this in the future and it's going to potentially make some people upset.
                That means it's worth doing

                >Post some jigs tho
                There's a few examples here: https://defcad.com/search/?q=JIG&order=recent

              • 3 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                There's some interesting ones on there. I'm not really a fan of defcad though since they limit who can download their files.

              • 3 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                My reference to heat issues is 3D Print General's event where laying a FGC-9 on a table that was under the sunlight in Texas caused parts to deform under spring pressure. He fixed it by changing filament material.
                One could use metal (in commercially available forms) for better heat dissipation and maybe even as bracing for parts that could deform under spring pressure. Or heat resistant epoxies.
                Right now, the only major potential use for casting I see are gas blocks and barrel sleeves.

              • 3 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                The issue is that there is strong materials that DO come close to something made just as a cast one, but it is VERY expensive material, that also needs a well controlled environment, and high end parts even tend to wear out altogether when printing. A 1Kg of PEEK or PEKK which are one of the most resistant superpolymers out there costs $750 alone, and as for Nylon and Polycarbonate filaments, they cost around $120 a Kilo but maintenance and printing of them alone is a mayor bitch, they gather moisture severely quick, which basically is a print killer.

              • 3 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                Look at the Urutau it is like the evolution of the FGC9.

              • 2 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                the urutau looks unbelievably sexy from what I've seen of the beta
                I'm a little tempted to join when I'm on break from uni

              • 3 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                Is this all made of just polymer or anything sturdier?

              • 3 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                Sirayatech Cast True Blue. I have some better stuff for garden gnomeelry but this has been perfectly adequate for the receiver and it burns out very clean. The only problem is that it is sort of fragile and needs heavy supports for a model this size. The bed adhesion can be an issue but I sanded my build plate with 200 grit and it has been fine.

          • 3 weeks ago
            Anonymous

            Mad respect. The other models I've seen online lack dimensional accuracy or are only geared toward using AR15 FCG's etc. If someone was dead set on printing a VZ receiver SLA seems to be the better option for thinner walls without compromising strength

            • 2 weeks ago
              Anonymous

              Unfortunately all the resins I have used are very brittle. I am interested in the expensive engineering resins but I am not going to put money into them at this point. I saw one that claims to be PEEK-like but the cost of these resins is prohibitive for me to just test them out.

              How you are casting zamak? is that spinning wheel thing or it is like sand casting?

              I am plaster casting using the same process as lost wax for garden gnomeelry it and will be using a vacuum chamber in the not too distant future. The one I have is too small for the mold. I don't get consistent results without it unfortunately so it seems to be a requirement because of the thin walls. Sometimes it works sometimes it doesn't.

              • 2 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                I was watching some ceramic casting the other day and he cast at really high mold temperatures. Do you pour metal in ambient temperature? it can be one of the cause of the problems since the metal will cool of pretty quickly and mess with the flow inside the mold.

              • 2 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                Do you pour metal in a ambient temperature mold.*

              • 2 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                depends on the metal, I think lead's ok to do that way because it melts so low, but I read a thing from someone who made silver bullets, and 2000 degrees melting point meant the funnel and mold needed to be 800 I think, just to keep the silver from freezing in the funnel. Lead melts at 800 iirc.

              • 2 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                Yeah i get it.
                Maybe if you put the mold in the oven at 400 it will get better definition.

              • 2 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                And i saw the guy pouring cast iron the ceramic moulds were glowing

              • 2 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                Do you pour metal in a ambient temperature mold.*

                >depends on the metal, I think lead's ok to do that way because it melts so low
                Technically yes, but if you're going for good detail, even in silicone, you really want a hot mold. Also, it's best practice to push pretty much anything you're casting in over 250°F to drive condensation out of the mold. Otherwise you can get blow-ups when it hits bubbles of water. In the best case you get micro-voids and worst-case it blows metal back up out of the funnel.
                >t. garage caster who does lead and pewter minis, bullets, and some basic brass work

              • 2 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                My last cast was at a slightly higher temp around 500f as an experiment to see if it would help fill the thin spots, it worked but the surface finish was not very good if you look at the picture up somewhere in the thread. This is an area I am still experimenting with and as I will be using a vacuum next attempt I will not need to have the mold this hot.

                And i saw the guy pouring cast iron the ceramic moulds were glowing

                If I assume the general rule used in garden gnomeelry of 1000 degrees below pouring temp applies to cast iron then the mold would have been at somewhere around 1500f. Just a guess

          • 2 weeks ago
            Anonymous

            I need this. I have the incorrect dimensional one, it looks cool, but no way in hell does it work

      • 3 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        What model did you use? I know there was that ancient one floating around for years that used the og vz61 FCG and the more recent CZAR from DD that uses an AR FCG. What kind of process did you use for casting?

      • 3 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        How you are casting zamak? is that spinning wheel thing or it is like sand casting?

  5. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    Going to start on a new project today. Modifying this bad boy for belt feed

    • 3 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      post your final product, anon (the poo poo shit)

  6. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    >Got 300 dollars to put towards a 3D printer now
    Thus begins the horrendous process of figuring out what's the best one currently for maybe 6-700

    • 3 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      Me trusty Prusa i3 mk3s+ never let me down

      • 3 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        Interesting, would have never ever found this in a million years. What have you made thus far with it? The image on their site looks pretty small, is it decent sized?
        >1099 for 1km of spool
        That's just funny to me.

        • 3 weeks ago
          Anonymous

          hoffman tactical almost exclusively uses Prusa printers for his builds, parts, test pieces, and small tools

          • 3 weeks ago
            Anonymous

            Nice, thanks for that info. Always a concern of mine that I'll pay nearly 1000 for a printer and I meet the size limitations fast...

        • 3 weeks ago
          Anonymous

          Bruh what, prusa is like, the original. First consumer tier 3D printer.

    • 3 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      You could buy a Prusa, but they're a bit overpriced for the feature set (although quite reliable). Go for it if you want to spend the money, if not, Ender 3 is the answer. Go to the PrepHole thread on 3D-printing if you need support.

      I've never seen any 3d printing fags make molds and cast parts, is there a good reason not to?

      Investment casting 3D-printed parts can be quite tricky: casting is more art than science in a lot of ways. I'm currently doing some workshops at a casting place to get a hang of things, but not for gunrelated stuff, because, y'know, guns scary.

      • 3 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        >Investment casting 3D-printed parts can be quite tricky
        Fortunately the math behind sorting out vents and pour channels isn't that bad. Look up a copy of Manufacturing Processes for Engineering Materials by Kalpakjian and Schmid

      • 3 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        >DIY
        Forgot about that board, I'll go lurk.
        >Ender 3
        I know they're cheap and pretty much the standard but I'm looking to have something which can be used for much high quality or advanced prints without concern. like I said, I'll go lurk DIY though. Thanks

        Bruh what, prusa is like, the original. First consumer tier 3D printer.

        Simply never heard of them. The shilling has always been crealty and ender.

        • 3 weeks ago
          Anonymous

          If you want high quality prints that will mostly will be determined by the material you use. For a beginner is better to get something like an Ender 3 V2 (theres a NEO version now) or something like the Biqu B1, its kinda of a better, more modern Ender 3 but it's not from Creality, otherwise you can get a Creality S1 which has a direct drive style extrusion and its super easy to assemble, but you wont be able to print superfast like a bowden style extruder, yet I doubt you will do that anyways.

          As for materials, eSun PLA+ is what I would recommend hands down for PrepHole related stuff, dont buy Creality PLA, it sucks and eSun usually cheaper too. TPU which is a flexible material, if you find it from Creality, you can go ahead, Creality TPU is actually pretty decent.
          For high end resistant materials, you can get either ABS/ABS+ which is great, but its a pain in the ass to print since its VERY prone to temperature change, so you most likely would have to build an enclosure for your printer to keep it all warm, otherwise the print will deform with just room temperature due of material retraction. PETG is basically the better version of ABS since its just as resistant but its kinda similar to PLA+ but just needs the higher temperature to print, but its not very affected by temperature and material retraction, so for parts that have a lot of stress, this material really comes in handy.
          The problem for entry level printers is that you most likely will have to replace the heat brake with a high quality one made of titanium, yet doing that modification is actually pretty easy, if you get it for a new printer that you haven't even used, its even easier.
          Still most PrepHole stuff that has been 3d printed just uses PLA+ and it works almost flawlessly if there was no printing issues, besides PLA+ is much more available to buy and more cost effective if you buy in bulks.

          Check out CHEP's Filament Friday channel, that helped me a lot, and if you have a Creality its a godsend

          • 3 weeks ago
            Anonymous

            I'm still lurking, thanks for all that information anon, very helpful.
            >Check out CHEP's Filament Friday channel
            Will do.

    • 3 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      Bambo lab p1p should be great when it comes out

  7. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous
    • 3 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      ingeniously simple and effective design

      • 3 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        It just makes the engineer in me a little tingly every time I look at it.

    • 3 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      That's incredibly simple, damn.

  8. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    You will never be a real gunsmith

    • 2 weeks ago
      Anonymous
  9. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    dont the printers inform the feds if you are priting gun stuff or is that just my shizo mind?
    like they are connected to the internet or whatever and be like "hold on, that's a ... oh. My. Satan... a GHOST GUN(tm)" and sends that to the atf who comes and kills my dog (her name is aika)

    • 3 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      >is that just my shizo mind?
      it is. The printer itself is already not connected to the internet, the only thing that could rat on you is the slicer program which you use on your pc, but that is also not connected to the internet, its also open source. But if you want you could just use your slicer with your PCs internet connection disabled. The only thing left is where you get the files, so if you download them from a fed site I guess they would know its you. So just download it from the gatalog or print2a and you will be fine.

      • 3 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        I think also some of the stuff like autodesk is all cloud based now, I definitely think that's a vector to dead doggos.

        • 3 weeks ago
          Anonymous

          >autodesk
          Thats a CAD so it wouldnt affect you unless you are designing anything, but yes definitely wouldnt use anything cloud based. But there are free and open source CADs like FreeCAD. Personally the only thing I`ve ever designed is an ergonomic charging handle so I used tinkercad.

          • 3 weeks ago
            Anonymous

            Autodesk makes many different programs. Inventor and fusion would be relevant for 3d modeling and making stl files. Fusion is cloud based, inventor is not but I do have to sign in to my account to open it. I've never tried to shut off wifi after opening inventor so I can't say if it's necessarily safer. Sketchup is another free option for modeling that should not require internet connectivity.

            • 3 weeks ago
              Anonymous

              Sketchup is usable but i felt like it was pretty janky, the one file I made with it ended up having weird extrusions coming out of it when sent to the printer software.

              Pic related, basepad extension for m&p 9mm 10 round cuckmags, doesn't add capacity bit ads length and could be modified to add weight bases etc.

              • 3 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                Printed the one on the left, yes it's "painted" with a sharpie as the guy who printed it for me used white filament.

              • 3 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                Agreed. My brother uses sketchup for lots of different projects and occasionally has similar issues if lines are not connected where they should be, not sure if that's a constraint issue or what, but I never have. I have inventor through work and prefer that. Fusion is similar but has worse ui in my opinion. Since inventor does not use the cloud for storage I would think it has better opsec and considering it's used by large companies for potentially patented products I would think it's safe but really don't trust anything that connects to the internet to be completely so.

              • 3 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                >inventor

                I might check that out, thanks.

              • 3 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                >Sketchup is usable but i felt like it was pretty janky, the one file I made with it ended up having weird extrusions coming out of it when sent to the printer software.
                Delete a wall from your model or bring the camera inside the model and see if there's something strange inside. Sketchup tends to create a ton of internal geometry that shouldn't be there or makes walls disappear or flip (white outside, blue/grey internal) and it fucks with printer programs. Right click any walls that are flipped the wrong way and it'll have an option to flip them back; I forget what it's called. Also get yourself an old version of it from before google sold it off, the one you can download. I love sketchup for the fact that you can change every last edge and point but it's a little fiddly and missing features in some areas.

              • 3 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                I thought I had gone in and fixed the geometry at the time, but maybe not. I'm not a complete retard when it comes to 3d work, but I'm no picasso.

                I think the sketchup version I have might be an old one, I dunno. I downloaded it years ago and it sat on my pc unused, it ran an update before I could use it which I think changed it to stylebuilder or some bullshit, I think there's two versions.

                I think having used something like Cinema4D in the past, sketchup was like learning how to draw on walls with crayons again.

    • 3 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      It is not your schizo mind some 3d printer company and slicer said something about that but it is not widespread.

  10. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    I've never seen any 3d printing fags make molds and cast parts, is there a good reason not to?

    • 3 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      The future is now, old man.

    • 3 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      >I've never seen any 3d printing fags make molds and cast parts, is there a good reason not to?
      Casting is hard and imprecise; casting metals that melt at high temperatures even more so. It's also dangerous. The easiest way is to cast a "close enough" part and then machine it into tolerance. Which does not solve the "just machine it bro" problem, nor give us interchangeable parts because everything is hand-fitted.
      It >is< an awesome way to get a brass FGC-9, however, provided you're willing to do some lightening cuts.
      >but that''s heav--
      >why the fuck woul--
      shut up, it looks good.

      • 3 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        Has someone provided a pic of their brass fgc9 what does that look like

      • 3 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        https://i.imgur.com/p9vMd5i.jpg

        There's a cast aluminum 10/22 receiver from a lost investment PLA mold from the FOSSCAD days.
        Let me break it down, most 3d printing guys fall in one of three main categories:
        - People who want unserialized firearms as a protest/tee hee at the ATF, who can just focus on the lower/frame (they buy the rest)
        - People who like to have custom guns that look unique/sci-fi (print a shell around existing commercial firearms parts)
        - Legitimate "I have to make this shit inside an European commie block/Asian megacity" conditions that require the use of simplified tools and easy to codify instructions.
        The latter rely on standardized tubing/rods for consistency, a little bit of dremel and ECM, hand saws, at most a bench drill press and the cheapest welder you can find. Even the FCG-9 has been forked into "weldless bolt" variations just to skip the welder.
        If you get into casting, you'll see on youtube that there's entire channels dedicated to troubleshooting molds. Contraction during cooling, the velocity of the liquid flow and turbulence during the transition from liquid to solid, surface finish, etc.
        The vast majority of metals you can cast "at home" (and homes differ quite a bit) are not that great. IvanTheTroll recently got sheets of 4140 or 4150 laser cut to make a DIY glock slide, where the "locking lug" meets the top of the barrel, and after not many shots the steel was already getting peened. Some Zamak alloys are HiPoint tier and thus usable for firearms, but let's face it you're not getting the best casting and cooling/heat treatment from an empty soup can, plaster of paris and your mom's oven. Still, I'd probably design such a cast around a good grade of steel and attempt to heat treat it to avoid the Zamak from getting beat up and cracking. Yeah there's DIY microforges guides on youtube to bring small knifes to quenching temp. Motherfuckers are designing FGC-9s in a way that skips buying a welder, but you want them to cast and heat treat? Hmmm.

        https://i.imgur.com/FuCTL74.jpg

        Other than the material itself, you still have the issue of casting most likely requiring post-processing. Casting may not be accurate to the final dimension, cast may not have the necessary quality, a quality cast will have a rough surface from your 3d printing layer lines. If you're going to have to machine to final dimensions, you may as well have started from billet.
        3d printed dies and a table vise can bend 1-3mm sheet steel. A router and a 3d printed jig can act as a poor man's mill. Sure, the complexity increases if you include these kinds of techniques to make pressure bearing parts for a 3d printed design, but I'd still say it's less complex than casting - and it would be more consistent in terms of getting others to replicate.

        I get fairly accurate results that are dimensionally close enough to not need machining beyond drilling out the pin holes etc. The rough finish in this photograph is highly exaggerated by the flash, but this is with no clean up or polishing at all. I also cast with the mold at 500 to try and get the metal to flow into the small spaced with greatly effected the finish. But the casting has no porosity and it is solid enough that I trust it to not break. I am refining the model and my process currently but I am very close to a good end product. If I buy the larger vacuum chamber I am certain it would look much better. I don't get lots of time to work on this stuff so I have been delaying.
        Don't be so discouraging - casting can work if you buy/build the proper equipment. The bad results I am seeing are always caused by people trying to shortcut the process. You just can't do that, it needs to be done properly.

        For anyone interested I will be casting another this weekend and will post results if the thread is still around in a couple days.

        • 3 weeks ago
          Anonymous

          Looks good anon.
          But my point is that for example you still need the factory stamped steel upper and the bolt. Casting would be a way to unlock progress - we can already print the lower, casting can get you a stronger product but that's the upgrade to a solved problem. Right now the problems are bolts, specifically locking ones, and attaching barrels to receivers.
          Casting barrel sleeves to decrease heat damage to a printed receiver is probably the next step. But I don't see core parts being cast in the future FGC-5.56 or 7.62

          • 3 weeks ago
            Anonymous

            If you need stamping is easier to make a 3dprinted tool for that. Adapt a car jack or buy a cheap press idk. I saw as low as 80bucks a 15ton press but that was a year ago.

            • 3 weeks ago
              Anonymous

              The point isn't that the upper is stamped, just that it was stamped at a proper factory. If a cast lower was attached to a DIY stamped upper I'd question why not stamp the lower at that point - but at least it would be neat.
              Making a cast lower for kits that depend on factory parts is kind of a novelty while others are trying to remove dependency from "gun" parts. And progress is slow because not a lot of people are willing to participate in fully DIY betas (they require more work than just buying kits) meaning small number of autists have to spend their free time and money on prototyping and testing.
              Lo and behold, almost every time 3d printing is mentioned someone is like "I don't get why 3d printing fags simply don't do more casting?". They're already >doing it for free when it comes to working towards 3d printable designs and people expect them to release a set of instructions to handle molten metal at home. So to those who cast, more power to them. I just don't think casting lowers is progress when people like Hoffman are trying to solve the problem of attaching a barrel and gas system to a printed upper and not have it sag after heating up.

        • 3 weeks ago
          Anonymous

          >Don't be so discouraging - casting can work if you buy/build the proper equipment.
          I mean, yes, it can. It's also a completely different skillset that requires a lot of work and practice to avoid voids, micro-cracking, and generally getting things to tolerances safely and efficiently. It took me months to get to the point where I was reliably casting small parts in my garage, and was good enough to pick out a bad one before I seriously tested it. I'm not gonna suggest it as a shortcut to someone who just needs a gun, now. If you cast things in a way that's cheap, relatively safe, and easy to achieve for a novice they're gonna need a third skillset to finish, rather than ones that make the design easier or safer to build. And I don't want to add another pile of equipment to the list if it's not necessary.

          For stuff like your use-case of resurrecting a gun with a torched receiver that you can spend time on casting with safe dimensions, dressing and prepping, it's a great idea. Especially since you clearly have the experience. Likewise, simple stuff where you mostly just need a block of metal and you can finish them with a drill press and jig (bolt weights, gas blocks, etc) are gonna be fine for newbies. I'm just leery of going past that when the goal is making a weapon with the least possible bullshit quotient.

          Got called a lot of names for saying that very idea to the fosscad/fgc9 guys.

          Any man who shits on a way to make jigs quickly and precisely is a fucking fool.

        • 2 weeks ago
          Anonymous

          Highly interested sir cant wait to see

        • 2 weeks ago
          Anonymous

          >For anyone interested I will be casting another this weekend and will post results if the thread is still around in a couple days
          If you take enough pictures it'd deserve its own thread.

          • 2 weeks ago
            Anonymous

            Highly interested sir cant wait to see

            It will be another week but will do

    • 3 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      There's a cast aluminum 10/22 receiver from a lost investment PLA mold from the FOSSCAD days.
      Let me break it down, most 3d printing guys fall in one of three main categories:
      - People who want unserialized firearms as a protest/tee hee at the ATF, who can just focus on the lower/frame (they buy the rest)
      - People who like to have custom guns that look unique/sci-fi (print a shell around existing commercial firearms parts)
      - Legitimate "I have to make this shit inside an European commie block/Asian megacity" conditions that require the use of simplified tools and easy to codify instructions.
      The latter rely on standardized tubing/rods for consistency, a little bit of dremel and ECM, hand saws, at most a bench drill press and the cheapest welder you can find. Even the FCG-9 has been forked into "weldless bolt" variations just to skip the welder.
      If you get into casting, you'll see on youtube that there's entire channels dedicated to troubleshooting molds. Contraction during cooling, the velocity of the liquid flow and turbulence during the transition from liquid to solid, surface finish, etc.
      The vast majority of metals you can cast "at home" (and homes differ quite a bit) are not that great. IvanTheTroll recently got sheets of 4140 or 4150 laser cut to make a DIY glock slide, where the "locking lug" meets the top of the barrel, and after not many shots the steel was already getting peened. Some Zamak alloys are HiPoint tier and thus usable for firearms, but let's face it you're not getting the best casting and cooling/heat treatment from an empty soup can, plaster of paris and your mom's oven. Still, I'd probably design such a cast around a good grade of steel and attempt to heat treat it to avoid the Zamak from getting beat up and cracking. Yeah there's DIY microforges guides on youtube to bring small knifes to quenching temp. Motherfuckers are designing FGC-9s in a way that skips buying a welder, but you want them to cast and heat treat? Hmmm.

    • 3 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      Other than the material itself, you still have the issue of casting most likely requiring post-processing. Casting may not be accurate to the final dimension, cast may not have the necessary quality, a quality cast will have a rough surface from your 3d printing layer lines. If you're going to have to machine to final dimensions, you may as well have started from billet.
      3d printed dies and a table vise can bend 1-3mm sheet steel. A router and a 3d printed jig can act as a poor man's mill. Sure, the complexity increases if you include these kinds of techniques to make pressure bearing parts for a 3d printed design, but I'd still say it's less complex than casting - and it would be more consistent in terms of getting others to replicate.

  11. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    I bought some dshk links and found out 12 gauge fits in them. I don't know what to do with this info. Beltfed 12 gauge? Would that be legal?

    • 3 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      >beltfed 12 gauge
      maximum violence

      Well 12 gauge and 50 cals are compatible everyone knows that, you can fire a 50BMG from a shotgun (dont). Maybe you can try feeding it into an M2 if you have one lying around.

    • 3 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      A belt-feed system for shotguns would be ungodly based. Tubes have practical length limits that hinder capacity, box mags get finnicky past 5-10 rounds, and drums are a bulky and expensive nightmare that can fail easily, but a belt? If you give it a beefy feed system only the glorious Murder Cube knows how many rounds you could sling underneath in a belt box, for MAXIMUM DAKKA!

      Shells do however pose a problem for belt feed mechanisms, for one you're going to have to use a pull-feed to strip rimmed rounds which doesnt seem easy to DIY (a lot of fine tuning of the metallurgy is required in parts like the feed claw, and there's a lot of precise camming surfaces) and you'll also have to make sure your feed mechanism doesnt severely dent or deform the plastic shells.

    • 3 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      >beltfed 12 gauge
      maximum violence

      Well 12 gauge and 50 cals are compatible everyone knows that, you can fire a 50BMG from a shotgun (dont). Maybe you can try feeding it into an M2 if you have one lying around.

      A belt-feed system for shotguns would be ungodly based. Tubes have practical length limits that hinder capacity, box mags get finnicky past 5-10 rounds, and drums are a bulky and expensive nightmare that can fail easily, but a belt? If you give it a beefy feed system only the glorious Murder Cube knows how many rounds you could sling underneath in a belt box, for MAXIMUM DAKKA!

      Shells do however pose a problem for belt feed mechanisms, for one you're going to have to use a pull-feed to strip rimmed rounds which doesnt seem easy to DIY (a lot of fine tuning of the metallurgy is required in parts like the feed claw, and there's a lot of precise camming surfaces) and you'll also have to make sure your feed mechanism doesnt severely dent or deform the plastic shells.

      I've seen an image of a beltfed shotgun on here before

      • 3 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        This video was posted in like 2009 and the guy never explained anything about it. It's since been removed but I'm sure mirrors exist

        • 3 weeks ago
          Anonymous
        • 3 weeks ago
          Anonymous

          https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1PRAjroxlJI

        • 3 weeks ago
          Anonymous

          https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1PRAjroxlJI

          this makes my penis the big penis.

    • 3 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      If you use it in a pump action, you can have unlimited links in NJ due to a loop hole in the law

    • 3 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      Firearms with a bore over .50 are by default "destructive devices" regulated under the NFA.
      There's an exception for shotguns found "generally recognized as particularly suitable for sporting purposes", and this exception is applied to virtually all shotguns, even relatively non-traditional designs.
      However, in the '90s ATF ruled that a few specific shotguns, particularly revolving-cylinder types such as the Striker/Protecta/Street Sweeper, and also the USAS-12 (pic related from ATF ruling 1994-1), are not suitable for sporting purposes, and are thus DDs.
      I'm unaware of any ATF determination for a belt-fed shotgun, but it's fairly likely that if such a thing did come to their attention, they'd determine it to be non-sporting and thus a DD. It would be hard to make one that would pass the criteria used for rejecting the USAS-12.
      Some of the modern shotguns being allowed (e.g. Saigas and other box- or drum-mag shotguns) suggest that the criteria used for the USAS-12 are no longer being applied, so maybe it would be fine. But it's quite conceivable they'd trot them back out for a belt-fed.

      • 3 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        I think with a more hunting/trap style barrel say 26-28" and semi-auto, or shorter with manual action the atf wouldnt have much gripe about it

      • 2 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        Just claim it as a mass bird hunting device. Easy as.

        • 2 weeks ago
          Anonymous

          >includes 3-round belt-box for migratory game birds, and 50-round belt-box for all others

          • 2 weeks ago
            Anonymous

            bump

    • 2 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      As long as it is semiautomatic, it.is 100% legal. If you want to have it fully automatic, you either have to modify a DShK to fire 12guage, and only have to fill out a form 1, or you would have to get an FFL, and make something that will fore 12guage fully automatically.

  12. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    I am offocially a Bubba, I wonder when I'll get my certificate.

    • 3 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      Like a rooster crest.
      I don’t hate it

    • 3 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      You don't know what a Bubba is.

      • 3 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        Sorry, I posted gunsmithing in a 3d printing thread.

        • 3 weeks ago
          Anonymous

          On the Ukraine board nonetheless

          • 3 weeks ago
            Anonymous

            I'm such an idiot.

      • 3 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        >god knows how he attached the rails with included screws (though it may be a professional drill and tap)
        >one ring holding the scope on
        He's not fully there but he's getting there. Yes you can use a scope with one ring but it's a scope being held with one fucking ring; I doubt it holds zero well for precise shooting if bumped. I've seen it done on air rifles to levels of somewhat concerning success, which usually means it's okay for a .22 but probably pushing it.

        >go buy in another state
        Don't I need a firearm license to buy elsewhere tho?

        >don't I need...
        For ammo, no, but big chains like Walmart is probably going to want to see ID and "hey I can't sell to person in (state/city), sorry, policy (if they know that)". Would probably not work for gun transfers, though how that works I have no clue. Probably anywhere around your state (or anyone in the gun business in general) would know the moment they needed your address. Note: I'm not that anon and I'm not saying you should do either.

        • 3 weeks ago
          Anonymous

          The rails were made from a 300mm bar of 12mm square aluminium (6061 according to the seller). I "milled" the dimensions down using my drill press with worn out bearings and then used my bench grinder to get each rail down to about 7.3mm tall. Countersunk holes were drilled and the original screws that held the plastic rails on were used to attach the new "rails". And yes, I did manage to strip 2 of the sets of threads, I'm pretty sure the receiver of the little badger is cast zinc, its so fucking soft. I might get around to retapping them one day, but for now two effective screws and one as little more than support sjould be enough, it's not like I'm going to put anything other than a sling point and a light on the handguard. They were also drilled and tapped for some M6 screws to hold the airsoft handguard in place. They were then painted with birchwood casey aluminum black as I just didn't have the patience to set up a full anodising rig, but I would like to anodise them at some point.

          The handguard is just some cheap piece of gel blaster/airsoft junk. Cut down to allow the longshot mfg top rail to be used. It was also hit with the blackenig solution.

          The scope was purchased on ebay to replace the giant fucking 1-5x scope I had before that doubled the weight of the gun. I doubt it will even hold zero if it had 6 rings holding it in place but time will tell. The reason it only has the one ring is because the eye relief is so fucking close, I need the scope to sit further back, unfortunately all the shitty cantilever mounts I have are too wide to sit between the dials and the eyepiece and would still only be one attachment point. I will probably end up modifying a cantilever mount to have the scope sit further back but it will likely be a single point connection. I figured if it's good enough for some red dot mounts on AR's, it should be good enough on this little piece of shit.

          Apparently I never took a photo of the finished rails.

          • 3 weeks ago
            Anonymous

            Also English is not my second language, I'm just phoneposting and I suck at typing on it. I might also have a bit of the tism and over explain shit.

            Scope size comparison. The old one was a behemoth, if I'd known it was going to be that big I wouldn't have bought it.

            • 3 weeks ago
              Anonymous

              And in case anyone is wondering, yes, I am this retard.

          • 3 weeks ago
            Anonymous

            >And yes, I did manage to strip 2 of the sets of threads, I'm pretty sure the receiver of the little badger is cast zinc, its so fucking soft. I might get around to retapping them one day
            Helicoils? They're apparently stronger than the original threads even according to Project Farm.

            • 3 weeks ago
              Anonymous

              I had never heard of these before, I'll look into it, thanks.

              • 3 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                >And yes, I did manage to strip 2 of the sets of threads, I'm pretty sure the receiver of the little badger is cast zinc, its so fucking soft. I might get around to retapping them one day
                Helicoils? They're apparently stronger than the original threads even according to Project Farm.

                I've never used or seen helicoils that small, but I've used 5/16 up to 3/4 for repairing cars old and new with broken bolts and stripped threads, they are a god send and far stouter than either cast iron or aluminum. Can't recommend enough for threads you dont want to budge in your lifetime

            • 3 weeks ago
              Anonymous

              I had never heard of these before, I'll look into it, thanks.

              https://i.imgur.com/uKxLc0u.png

              [...]
              I've never used or seen helicoils that small, but I've used 5/16 up to 3/4 for repairing cars old and new with broken bolts and stripped threads, they are a god send and far stouter than either cast iron or aluminum. Can't recommend enough for threads you dont want to budge in your lifetime

              I do love project farm's autistic level of detail.

              But yeah it does seem they don't make them that small. For now they are loctited in place and captured beneath the handguard so even if they were to back out, they wouldn't fall out.

              Pic related, the stripped holes are at the very rear of the handguard next to the rear visible bolt.

              • 3 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                I would just find new bolts up a size and tap the pitch for whatever I have, if you have to get new bolts then tap for the same pitch, but thats just my workshop

              • 3 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                Yeah, I will likely do thst at some point, or I'll forget and leave it as it is.

              • 2 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                Do you know the diameter of the screws? You can get down to 2 mm inserts on McMaster. Also if you are searching, "threaded inserts" will bring up a wider range of products that fill that role than "helicoil"

  13. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    https://www.thefirearmblog.com/blog/2019/08/13/make-a-factory-quality-9mm-rifled-barrel-in-your-kitchen-using-salt-water-and-electricity-ecm/

    • 3 weeks ago
      BigC

      >starting with smooth bore barrel blank
      the only source of 9mm steel tubes is the one seller on aliexpress/ebay kek
      >bro i made a barrel!
      no, you rifled existing barrel blank ("""explosion proof tubing""")

    • 3 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      I feel like this would only be worthwhile in a country you could not obtain the things you need to rifle a barrel by hand

    • 3 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      Buy bar stock in the appropriate steel, and drill it out with hobbyist drill press.

      • 3 weeks ago
        BigC

        >implying you will be able to maintain any degree of concentricity with a fucking drill press

        • 3 weeks ago
          Anonymous

          Not that anon but i have a potential fix for the barrel problem. You're going to have to wait for however long it takes for me to figure out the design properly though.

          • 3 weeks ago
            Anonymous

            Well, in theory at least. No promises

          • 2 weeks ago
            Anonymous

            You’re sitting on a multi million dollar solution for industrial uses if you’ve figured out a way to drill precise holes without truing them later or using expensive equipment.

            • 2 weeks ago
              Anonymous

              Doubt it

        • 3 weeks ago
          Anonymous

          Just make a smoothbore, shotgun shells are even easier to reload anyway.

          • 3 weeks ago
            BigC

            you can't make a smooth bore 9mm, that's a NFA item
            why do you think printfags shill the ecm rifling so hard, they're all based in the US and are scared of jail lol

  14. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    Dumb question, but how hard is it to put irons on a rifle? Bought a savage axis off my neighbor and wish it had irons, but I also can't see spending to much on a $150 rifle. Is there something I can do myself or is this something I'd have to have a gunsmith do for me? If so how much am I looking to spend on this?

    • 3 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      >tfw I was supposed to build a .338 for some guy like a year ago but I keep putting it off because I'm afraid of fucking up

      the hardest part will be actually finding iron sights that fit the gun. if you bought a modern hunting rifle and there isn't a version with an identical barrel contour that comes with iron sights then they probably don't exist and you will have to make them or steal ones from another model and try to adapt them to fit yours. then it's a matter of either brazing them on, or using some combination of dovetails or tapped holes to attach them.

      • 3 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        midway has a bunch of generic sight ramps with different curves for different sizes of barrel. They generally attach with screws and have a standardized dovetail machined into them. You'd need to drill and tap a shallow hole or two, which means getting a blind tap if you don't already have one. I'm in the same boat on my own gun, a ruger charger I got a williams firesight set for, and nodak spud made the perfect band-type front sight but then got bought and the new owner hadn't started production back up last I checked.

      • 3 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        >then it's a matter of either brazing them on
        Why wouldn't you silver solder? No joking around, dead serious. Unless you mean something that doesn't go completely around the barrel unlike

        https://i.imgur.com/iCArJwB.jpg

        midway has a bunch of generic sight ramps with different curves for different sizes of barrel. They generally attach with screws and have a standardized dovetail machined into them. You'd need to drill and tap a shallow hole or two, which means getting a blind tap if you don't already have one. I'm in the same boat on my own gun, a ruger charger I got a williams firesight set for, and nodak spud made the perfect band-type front sight but then got bought and the new owner hadn't started production back up last I checked.

        . Though I'm always up to learn no matter which you meant. I just think brazing is really hard to clean up, isn't it?

    • 3 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      you'll have to fit them to the barrel contour either by machine or hand whichever you suck less at. they'll have to get attached either fasteners so drilling and tapping the barrel or soldering them on which will probably leave the barrel needing refinished .
      they'd be bases that you put sights on, easiest way since you could mostly fuck with the front sight to get it zeroed
      I'd go necg for the all the sight parts

  15. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    How to make a crude trigger for a singleshot 22 lr? Completely new to this, are there any good online guides?

    • 3 weeks ago
      Anonymous
  16. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    just got in this winchester 190 new old stock replacement receiver, and the recoil spring tube has a bunch of voids in the aluminum. I got it off gb and don't want to fuck around with sending it back, so what can I do to fix it? My thoughts so far are a syringe with jb weld to fill the voids and then smoothing it all out, or find a sleeve with the same i.d. and drill the receiver out to fit it, or just run the damn recoil spring on the aluminum and let it wear in the way it is. On the current gun with a cracked receiver that I'm replacing, you have to pack a ~8 inch spring into this 2" long hole to fit the bolt back in after cleaning, it's kind of a bitch already and I don't think there are voids in the old receiver. Each option I have sucks lol. Any thoughts?

    • 3 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      I mean, you can always have it reamed out and a repair thread section put in (helicoil if they even make it in that threading?) and have the smooth walled hole reamed out and lined but I wouldn't touch it, just clean it and most importantly, use an aluminum compatible grease/oil in those areas if you use some. For example, IIRC graphite is not. And maybe also molybdinum? It's been a while, I don't work with either much.

      I'd clean with a barrel brush and grease what needs to be greased. That one pit in the middle of the left hole, center photo, though, looks a bit dark. Is that a reamed hole or is it that pitted? It's fucking black.

      • 3 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        those are all pits, there's probably 8 of them, my phone is shit for pictures though. I could probably pack a full cubic centimeter of jb weld into the pits, drag the extra out with a worn out barrel brush or something, and then ream it once it dries. The ream & sleeve would be the best repair I think. It's for my first gun ever, my dad gave it to me and I've had it in my closet since I was ten, and a child molester once killed himself with it. It's worth doing right I think.

        • 3 weeks ago
          Anonymous

          >a child molester once killed himself with it
          lol based

  17. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    Have heard that the best use for 3d printing is for making jigs but i haven't seen any posted.

    • 3 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      Got called a lot of names for saying that very idea to the fosscad/fgc9 guys.

      • 3 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        They have their heads way too far up their own asses for guys that only improved upon an existing design.

      • 3 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        The FGC-9 bolt is made by using 3d printed parts as jigs for accurate drilling. What the fuck?
        Either way, the Chonk-15 design is based around a 3d printed jig to mill a tube into the inside diameter of an AR, then "overmold" the metal with a 3d printed receiver to attach it to a lower.

        • 3 weeks ago
          Anonymous

          cool asbestos floor tiles

          • 3 weeks ago
            Anonymous

            the pictures are from leddit, though
            the guy developing the Chonk-15 deleted the posts showing the internals

            • 3 weeks ago
              BigC

              >still uses AR bolt and barrel
              what's the point of this?

              • 3 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                Fun probably, that's the only reason behind most of this. Also autism

    • 3 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      ECM rifling jig

      https://www.thefirearmblog.com/blog/2019/08/13/make-a-factory-quality-9mm-rifled-barrel-in-your-kitchen-using-salt-water-and-electricity-ecm/

      • 3 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        Oh. Neat.

  18. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    which one is this? Genuinely curious, I've been seeing a lot of AR builds.

    • 3 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      It's an FGC-9.

  19. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    IL fag here. Waiting on my FOID so I can buy ammo.
    If I were to build some guns using my shop, what calibers should I aim for?

    • 3 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      9mm, 22lr, .308 and of course 5.56. That said, dude, just go buy it in another state. Like literally every other state held hostage by blue city fags.

      I have a few questions.
      >what are some cool parts kits that are still out there for reasonable prices?
      >Does anybody make a stand alone 9mm ak receiver? Childers doesn't have anything in 9mm.
      >I want to make a 7 barrel 12g like that one anon. How do I make the trigger/firing pin mechanism?

      Plenty of glock kits, ar kits, the cetme kits are available as well.

      • 3 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        >go buy in another state
        Don't I need a firearm license to buy elsewhere tho?

        • 3 weeks ago
          Anonymous

          No. Shocker, but the 2nd amendment means that you're not prevented from buying guns or ammunition without the government knowing. That's only in states that have been subverted by democrat corruption havens who insist upon infringing the God given right of all Americans to buy whatever they so choose. Even in Commiefornia you don't have to have a license to buy ammo. You have to have a background check which is currently in a court case, but until 2020 you could buy ammunition in California with no strings attached. Literally, they cannot stop someone from just driving out of state, then driving back in state with bricks of ammo. They might "ban" it, but who the fuck is gonna know you drove to pick up 10k rounds of 22lr to plink with on your bumfuck nowhere property?

          • 3 weeks ago
            Anonymous

            >God given right of all Americans to buy whatever they so choose
            what it really is is the God-given DUTY to keep yourself alive on a planet filled with murderous bandits and man-eating carnivorous beasts. Good guys have to be dangerous too.

          • 3 weeks ago
            Anonymous

            God I hate living in this cucked state

            • 3 weeks ago
              Anonymous

              Hey, it's just a matter of time until the courts sort out the whole deal with Bruen and these restrictions go away forever. Never should have taken this long, but things always get better. The FOID card will also eventually be revealed for the fucked up and useless piece of scrap it is.

        • 3 weeks ago
          Anonymous

          shall not be infringed my dude, it's morally acceptable to skirt illegal laws
          visit small stores that need your business, if they ask if you're a resident say yes, and if they ask to see your id you forgot it. If they drag their feet they lose your business and you try the next store.

        • 3 weeks ago
          Anonymous

          If you're from a cuck state the FFL probably won't sell to you soon as you pull out your driver's license.

          • 3 weeks ago
            Anonymous

            I assumed he meant person to person sales which do not require an ffl in many states. You are correct with regards to a dealer purchase as far as I'm aware.

      • 3 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        hmm I have a cetme 308 kit I havent built out yet. Maybe I'll snag a cetme L kit too

  20. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    I have a few questions.
    >what are some cool parts kits that are still out there for reasonable prices?
    >Does anybody make a stand alone 9mm ak receiver? Childers doesn't have anything in 9mm.
    >I want to make a 7 barrel 12g like that one anon. How do I make the trigger/firing pin mechanism?

  21. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    Has anyone worked with the hybrid smg design that's available on the gatalog? I'm wondering just how the whole thing functions, because I'd love to be able to cannibalize that, the fgc9 stingray and slap together a proper rifle that works off of .350 l'gend to solve the whole lack of rifle due to bottleneck problem.

  22. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    >Not making boxes of dildo styled guns and taking them to buy backs.

    Why hasn't this happened yet?

  23. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    I'm a bit of a smithy myself

    • 2 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      what suppressor is that?

  24. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    Rails up or rails down?

  25. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    Learned how to stain wood and found some weird 42 round mags

    • 3 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      idk what feeling this gives me and idk if i like it or not.
      >its smug aura haunts me.

    • 2 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      Printed stock? looks real until you see layer lines. ia that a star head screw instead of a hex bolt? i wish it was counter sunk. 8/10 I love wood and extended mags on ar.

      • 2 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        Yeah, wood filament with a stain on both the stock and foregrip. The bolt on the foregrip is a regular hex bolt head though

    • 2 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      I like it good aesthetic.

  26. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    Where can i get a 410 shotgun barrel for a simple project? It's literally just a fancy pipe gun.

    • 3 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      just go to your local shotgun barrel pipe store

      • 2 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        Literally just go buy a barrel from a store.

        Didn't realize this was 'muh sekrit club'.
        Ill just go and stay go then. Cant have us plebs in your hobby after all.

        • 2 weeks ago
          Anonymous

          Kinda hard to help when you have given no information about where you live or anything really

        • 2 weeks ago
          Anonymous

          My brother in Christ, we're telling you to go to your lgs and just buy one, it's not rocket science.

          • 2 weeks ago
            Anonymous

            >how do I as a gunsmith make x

            >go to your lgs and just buy one
            Such expertise. I bet all those malaysian freedom fighters and europoors really appreciate this wisdom

            • 2 weeks ago
              Anonymous

              All that was asked was where to get a barrel, and that information was provided. If the question was, instead "Hey, how do I make a barrel for a .410 shotgun from scratch?" or "What sort of pipe should I look for to use as a barrel in a .410 shotgun for a restrictive country/region?" then that is different. It's no different from asking "where do I buy a hammer" and getting pissed when people tell you to go to the hardware store instead of explaining how you forge one out of rebar and melted down railroad spikes. If you want specific information, ask for specific information, don't just be vague and nebulous with your fucking query.

              • 2 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                >don't just be vague and nebulous with your fucking query.
                I would imagine the people that are vauge are so for a reason. I seriously doubt that it was an american asking.

              • 2 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                Speaking as a burger, burgers are some of the biggest retards as well as the biggest savants. It would not surprise me that a fellow burger doesn't know you can just go get a barrel from a shop. Now, if said person was wondering where they could source a barrel from somewhere other than a store, that's also an acceptable question, and plenty of people will be able to tell them to get either hydraulic tubing or "explosion proof pipes".

              • 2 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                >as well as the biggest savants
                Most of their smart people are imported, since they can make the most money there.

        • 2 weeks ago
          Anonymous

          This thread is great, I got a lot of advice and suggestions from anons.

        • 2 weeks ago
          Anonymous

          They are on ebay yiy dumb monkey.

    • 3 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      Literally just go buy a barrel from a store.

  27. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    Anybody have experience or advice for making your own flatsprings? After getting it in shape what is the best way to temper spring steel? Quench or no? I have asked around with some of my machinist buddies but gotten different answers, though none of them have made flat springs of firearm strength before

    • 2 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      >After getting it in shape what is the best way to temper spring steel? Quench or no? I have asked around with some of my machinist buddies but gotten different answers, though none of them have made flat springs of firearm strength before
      It depends on what exact alloy you're using. Most spring steels need to be quenched and then tempered, however, it's just a matter of whether an oil or water Q and what temps you hold it at.

      The point isn't that the upper is stamped, just that it was stamped at a proper factory. If a cast lower was attached to a DIY stamped upper I'd question why not stamp the lower at that point - but at least it would be neat.
      Making a cast lower for kits that depend on factory parts is kind of a novelty while others are trying to remove dependency from "gun" parts. And progress is slow because not a lot of people are willing to participate in fully DIY betas (they require more work than just buying kits) meaning small number of autists have to spend their free time and money on prototyping and testing.
      Lo and behold, almost every time 3d printing is mentioned someone is like "I don't get why 3d printing fags simply don't do more casting?". They're already >doing it for free when it comes to working towards 3d printable designs and people expect them to release a set of instructions to handle molten metal at home. So to those who cast, more power to them. I just don't think casting lowers is progress when people like Hoffman are trying to solve the problem of attaching a barrel and gas system to a printed upper and not have it sag after heating up.

      >trying to solve the problem of attaching a barrel and gas system to a printed upper and not have it sag after heating up.
      I still say we should be at least trying the Lewis GPMG route and making some brackets in the forend that hold cheap aluminum flashing from the hardware store as dissipators/radiators, plus a force-air cooling system that works off the remaining gas. It's certainly bulky and stupid, but even mounting a CPU fan ducted up under the forend and running off the same battery pack as his weapon light did a lot for one of my buddy's prototypes, dropped barrel temps by like 20-30°F in 10-round strings. He also had some luck by soldering on a couple of zinc CPU radiators to either side of the gas block, which is not much of a solution long-term (because of hte inevitable corrosion) but keeps it from sagging on a hot day and a couple mag dumps.

      • 2 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        You could even print or buy one of those airsoft handguard grips where you can put a LIPO battery on them, with that you would have power for basically days for spinning some small fans on them.
        Maybe an even better idea would be to do a CAD design that integrate several fans on the top similar to what even your regular 3d printer comes with.
        Yet obviously the best solution would be a quick detachable barrel, so you drop the other one on a cooling surface or in water like on the GITS movie.

    • 2 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      I've made a couple. after you get the shape right you need to heat it red hot until it's not magnetic and then quench it. then you want to polish it again and temper it to a blue color. for that you can try using a bath of something like niter salts or molten lead, or you can just heat it with a torch.

  28. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    Eastern Euro anon here, getting a creality ender pro soon, what else do I need? Where can I get started on all this and do I need to be like autisticly smart to figure it out because Im not really that bright with such things

    • 3 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      If you're trying to design things from scratch? Yeah you're going to need some skills. You're just going to download the files? The guides are usually detailed.

  29. 3 weeks ago
    ChaosCustoms

    I prefer the Bill Holmes/Professor Parabellum approach myself

    https://t.me/Guerrillaclub

  30. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    >gunsmithing
    >sanding and assembling plastic
    Christ

  31. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    Reverse engineering a couple hi power parts for fun using “education only” software from school
    i paid for it I’m gonna use it

    • 3 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      >software
      >i paid for it

      • 3 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        In my tuition I mean
        I’d borrow a copy if I didn’t have access to it now

  32. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    What do I make?

    • 3 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      Start off with the calibration test print thing.

      • 3 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        Aside from a benchy this is my first real print, going to start a v3 build, any reqs on uppers? I'm currently noguns

        • 2 weeks ago
          Anonymous

          NTAYRT, but go get a PSA AR kit, then start trying out the various lowers for them. I rec you start with the Firebolt and see how that works out for you.

          • 2 weeks ago
            Anonymous

            I'll add that to my list

            Any one got recommendations for decent glock slides? Budget to baller whatever is good value, making a 19, should be done in the am

            • 2 weeks ago
              Anonymous

              budget: can't go wrong with AimSurplus. Great options for the price (check out their parts kits too). Brownells (on sale) is nice also. 3CR Tactical gets them in on a pretty consistent sale price it seems, dunno about shipping.
              Baller, the world is your oyster I guess. Pick a model you like and go from there

            • 2 weeks ago
              Anonymous

              Is rails down, 10 degrees forward the new meta?

              • 2 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                bump

              • 2 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                bump

              • 2 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                bump

              • 2 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                bump

              • 2 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                bump

              • 2 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                bump

              • 2 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                You can at least try to fake some content in your post to keep the thread alive.

              • 2 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                bump

              • 2 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                I did 10 degrees forward with the 19 and 10 degrees back with the 17. 19 printed in 9.5hrs and the 17 in 7.25hrs with the same quality, not sure if the different grip textures affect time though as the 19's texture is much finer.

        • 2 weeks ago
          Anonymous

          I would recommend also printing a calibration cube, (1 x 1 x 1) to confirm your printer's dimensional accuracy. This is really important for parts that need to fit together and particularly when they are being coupled with non printed parts. This also means that unless it is dialed in, print orientation can affect your dimensional accuracy.

  33. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    bomp

  34. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    This is kind of a meme, but why hasn't anybody tried 3d printing an SKS? obviously it's almost more of a meme but why not? If we can print MP5s and ARs. Is it the built in magazine? lack of parts?

    • 3 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      With the amount of effort that would be required to do that, you might as well just make your own milled receiver. And yes 3D printing makes making guns more accessible but not many people would be making them even if it were accessible. Just a few nerds. Like with that 3D printed Cetme or AKM

      • 3 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        yeah that's about what I figured. involving a lathe misses the point of a 3d printed gun.

  35. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    I am a no Gun Neet
    whats the best way to start leaning about guns and gun smiting?
    online resources, pdfs, simple beginner project, tools?

    • 3 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      go buy an abused gun that has not seen a drop of oil since 1982 and been riding around in bubba truck. Tear it down figure out what is broken or missing and either buy new parts or repair them and boom yah statred gunsmithing.

    • 3 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      go buy an abused gun that has not seen a drop of oil since 1982 and been riding around in bubba truck. Tear it down figure out what is broken or missing and either buy new parts or repair them and boom yah statred gunsmithing.

      scratch that go buy a 22lr rifle or a maverick 88 and start there. Trying to repair guns when you know jackshit about them is not very good way to start.

    • 3 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      Here homie

      [...]

      • 3 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        [...]

      • 3 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        https://archive.org/details/folkscanomy_defense

        • 2 weeks ago
          Anonymous

          [...]

          Here homie

          [...]

          Thanks man I will definitely look over these book

          [...]
          scratch that go buy a 22lr rifle or a maverick 88 and start there. Trying to repair guns when you know jackshit about them is not very good way to start.

          That makes alot of sense fixing an old gun seem like hard mode compared to a factory new

          go buy an abused gun that has not seen a drop of oil since 1982 and been riding around in bubba truck. Tear it down figure out what is broken or missing and either buy new parts or repair them and boom yah statred gunsmithing.

          I think i will get one for a restoration project once I have some basics

          • 2 weeks ago
            Anonymous

            >That makes alot of sense fixing an old gun seem like hard mode compared to a factory new
            It's kind of the point, you learn best by doing challenging shit and fucking it up badly, not by playing with legos for an hour and wandering off. All of us have a couple busted guns in the shed that we thought we could fix easy and then learned Important Gunsmithing Lessons about. (Lesson 1: if a gun is missing a part that looks like an easy fix, look around to see if you can buy it BEFORE YOU BUY THE FUCKING GUN. Lesson 2: Get a parts diagram before you buy it. Lesson 3: All used blackpowder firearms are loaded, especially if the ramrod is broken. Proceed accordingly).

            Although I do recommend you take apart something cheap, put it back together, and do your damnedest to work out why and how it does what it does. After a while you'll start to understand why Greener's autococker here

            https://i.imgur.com/g5KYKid.jpg

            is straightup hardcore pornography to an engineer.

            • 2 weeks ago
              Anonymous

              fucking REEE someone explain why that design is so le genius

            • 2 weeks ago
              Anonymous

              I'd love to see an animation of this in action. Incredible what some of these designers were able to accomplish

  36. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    why does the dogfucker keep repeating blatant lies he's been corrected on in previous threads

  37. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    3d printing stamp forms for making receiver flats seem like a thing that might be doable?

    • 3 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      Works for CETMEs. IIRC this was on a CETME build guide.
      https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4614385
      And this one just showed up in a search which is neat:
      https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3707449

      Just search "CETME".

    • 3 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      Oh shit you mean actually stamping them out of sheetmetal, not bending flats, don't you? Fuck. Yeah, it may be doable. Stuff Made Here did it with wood. Perhaps you could do it with printed plastic. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IcjgrB9vTec

      • 3 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        Yeah. Saw an article about stamping other metal things with a 3d printed mold should be possible for guns as well.
        Putting down a paper schematic on the metal and drilling the holes first so you can use them to center it properly.
        Most of the pps-43 is just stamped metal so there's no reason why not.
        Though the article did mention issues of the mold breaking with repeat use but you could probably just make a silicone mold out of it and make a hardier resin copy if it's that much of an issue.

        • 3 weeks ago
          Anonymous

          >Though the article did mention issues of the mold breaking with repeat use but you could probably just make a silicone mold out of it and make a hardier resin copy if it's that much of an issue.
          Why wouldn't you just cast an aluminum version of it using lost PLA then? Resin and silicone is $$$ and resin is usually either a hair soft or a hair brittle.

          • 3 weeks ago
            Anonymous

            I'm not planning on doing either but also I'm talking about the stamping thing because it imo has a lot more potential than casting in metal which tends to be unreliable when it comes to bubbles and other such issues.

            • 3 weeks ago
              Anonymous

              Also it's what's tickling my autism rn.

            • 3 weeks ago
              Anonymous

              You can cast your stamping molds using lost PLA is what I'm saying. Aluminum may not last long when used for stamping steel sheets into flats, but I feel it'd last longer than printed plastic. That way, yes, you have to cast once, but once you're done casting and cleaning up your stamping dies using lost PLA, it's much more solid and likely to last you a long time compared to printing stamping dies all the time with PLA (which you really have to print near solid if not solid, are huge, take forever to print, etc). I've never tried either but I think you could make it work.

              • 3 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                Ah yeah that makes more sense. Thought you meant casting the parts themselves.
                Should work better than with plastic or resin though might take a few pours to get right and maybe there's a risk of the aluminium deforming but i don't know enough about the topic to say.

              • 2 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                You can actually do pretty well with just 8 or so walls of layer thickness and a reasonable infill percentage for stamping dies. Makes consumable dies much more feasible.

  38. 2 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    Anyone have a chart over the recommend barrel lengths of various calibers? Max, min, etc.

    • 2 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      look up "ballistics by the inch" and see where you think the break even point is.

      >After getting it in shape what is the best way to temper spring steel? Quench or no? I have asked around with some of my machinist buddies but gotten different answers, though none of them have made flat springs of firearm strength before
      It depends on what exact alloy you're using. Most spring steels need to be quenched and then tempered, however, it's just a matter of whether an oil or water Q and what temps you hold it at.

      [...]
      >trying to solve the problem of attaching a barrel and gas system to a printed upper and not have it sag after heating up.
      I still say we should be at least trying the Lewis GPMG route and making some brackets in the forend that hold cheap aluminum flashing from the hardware store as dissipators/radiators, plus a force-air cooling system that works off the remaining gas. It's certainly bulky and stupid, but even mounting a CPU fan ducted up under the forend and running off the same battery pack as his weapon light did a lot for one of my buddy's prototypes, dropped barrel temps by like 20-30°F in 10-round strings. He also had some luck by soldering on a couple of zinc CPU radiators to either side of the gas block, which is not much of a solution long-term (because of hte inevitable corrosion) but keeps it from sagging on a hot day and a couple mag dumps.

      I think the Chonk-15 guy used aluminum tape inside the printed handguard and it helped, he seems to have switched to a router-made aluminum handguard though

      • 2 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        Could probably be used to put together an image that shows a list of the most common cals and the recommended length.

  39. 2 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    Tried drilling the rear trunnion holes for this and majorly fucked up on one of them. The trunnion wasn't 100% secure in the jig and slipped when I slid the receiver back on to drill [very tight fit]. The one above it is a little dodgy too, but I'm pretty sure it'll be okay. The holes on the opposite side are perfect and rivets fit through them very snugly. Haven't dimpled the holes yet because I need advice.
    Is this fatal? Or is having one cruddy rivet hole on the rear trunnion okay? I'd hate having to pay and wait for another receiver to try again, and I'm not sure who to ask or where to go to potentially get the hole filled back in and fixed.

    • 2 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      >Is this fatal? Or is having one cruddy rivet hole on the rear trunnion okay
      If you're riveting, the rivet is supposed to swell as you beat the shit out of it and fill the hole. It's not just grabbing the ends, it's also upsetting into all the parts where the hole wanders. Would I trust that one? Depends on how deep the chunk you took out is. If you're super stressed drop some weld in it and call it a day.

      • 2 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        The trunnion is a little scratched but otherwise fine, so the hole itself is really about 1mm deep since it's only through the receiver. I don't have easy access to a welder, unfortunately, but I'll keep that in mind.
        I guess the 'easy' fix would just be smushing the rivet with the factory head on the opposite side, so the side being formed is more likely to squish out into the hole. Then hoping it doesn't start to work itself forwards over time.

        I've improperly replaced, fixed, and then re-replaced rear trunnions on the same reciever and egged out two of the holes on my AK, but it still holds solid now. my only advice is to smash that rivet like a fucking pancake (not all the way flat, but *really* smoosh it in) if you want it to hold. Rivets are soft metal and will squish down into any imperfections either in the trunnion or reciever itself.

        Thanks! That sorta backs up the thought I had up there, using the non-factory end being formed to fill out the missing metal. If I can't find someone to tack some weld on it so I can try again, I might just give it a shot as it is.
        I wish it were pretty, but I'll settle for safe.

        • 2 weeks ago
          Anonymous

          Welding will always create pockets of fucky heat treatment that can create cracking down the line. So you need to balance out that with the question of whether a slightly egged-out hole is gonna let your trunnion slip or not. If it's only 1mm deep, I wouldn't bother.

          fucking REEE someone explain why that design is so le genius

          >fucking REEE someone explain why that design is so le genius
          Greener's autococker? Count the number of parts. Count the number of spring. I say spring because there's only one (plus one farther back in the trigger). Look at what it's all actually doing in the gun, and how neatly it fits into the available space in the lockwork.
          >A single part is the hammer, striker, sear, and cocking lever, with one pin and only four working surfaces
          >the stud that lifts the cocking arm is also an out-of-battery safety AND part of the auto-ejection system
          >one single, smooth action on five parts resets the trigger, cocks the hammer, and ejects the shells
          >You can safely and easily decock the action by opening the gun and closing it with the trigger depressesed
          >no exposed parts other than the ejector and trigger
          >Those fucking voluptuous curves
          It's UTTER FILTH. It's the difference between a program that does the work with sixteen interesting but isolated subroutines in a thousand lines of code and one that does the same job with fifty perfectly-crafted lines and a couple of arrays.

          I'd love to see an animation of this in action. Incredible what some of these designers were able to accomplish

          You can find animations of the Martini-Henry (and cutaway rifles being operated on video) pretty easily.

          • 2 weeks ago
            Anonymous

            >Welding will always create pockets of fucky heat treatment
            Fug, that's a good point. I might as well use it as-is then since the other three holes are either spot on or good enough.

          • 2 weeks ago
            Anonymous

            Greener had nothing to do with that rifle design.

            • 2 weeks ago
              Anonymous

              >that rifle design
              We're talking about

              https://i.imgur.com/g5KYKid.jpg

              , right?

              • 2 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                I had only gone back as far as the Martini pic.
                Greener also did not deign the boxlock action though.
                The action is an Anson&Deeley design as patented by their employer Westley Richards. Greener made the design under license then slightly changed the cocking arm, stopped paying royalties, and filed his own patent.
                When sued he used his gov. contacts from the ordnance boards and superior bankroll to simple steamroll Richards. He then wrote his own book. The bulk of Greener's actual patent designs were simple things like safeties and locking mechanisms, and the British patent for choke boring (completely ignoring anything from the former colonies).
                Webley did much the same with his revolver design. Stole the bulk of it from someone who had stolen designs from several Belgians.

              • 2 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                I had only gone back as far as the Martini pic.
                Greener also did not deign the boxlock action though.
                The action is an Anson&Deeley design as patented by their employer Westley Richards. Greener made the design under license then slightly changed the cocking arm, stopped paying royalties, and filed his own patent.
                When sued he used his gov. contacts from the ordnance boards and superior bankroll to simple steamroll Richards. He then wrote his own book. The bulk of Greener's actual patent designs were simple things like safeties and locking mechanisms, and the British patent for choke boring (completely ignoring anything from the former colonies).
                Webley did much the same with his revolver design. Stole the bulk of it from someone who had stolen designs from several Belgians.

                ..that's kind of hilarious. And also explains the really long whiny diatribe about several of his lawsuits in the middle of the actions chapter.

    • 2 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      I've improperly replaced, fixed, and then re-replaced rear trunnions on the same reciever and egged out two of the holes on my AK, but it still holds solid now. my only advice is to smash that rivet like a fucking pancake (not all the way flat, but *really* smoosh it in) if you want it to hold. Rivets are soft metal and will squish down into any imperfections either in the trunnion or reciever itself.

  40. 2 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    Just put a PSA complete lower onto an Anderson complete upper, if I send a picture to SDI will then send my gunsmith cert in the mail

    • 2 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      You're basically John Browning at this point for inventing the AR, no cert needed. Just start advertising your gunsmith/gun designer services on craigslist.

    • 2 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      you're laughing but I think their final project is actually just putting an ar together. I work at a gun shop and some guy brought in an ar-10 lower with the buffer detent somehow jammed in the hole. he explained that he really needed it unstuck because it was for his online gunsmithing course. I said shouldn't you be fixing it then but he said all he had to do was put it together. I know he's ngmi because he didn't even ask how I did it when he came back to pick it up.

      • 2 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        The guy described in your story will literally be doing what I suggested here

        You're basically John Browning at this point for inventing the AR, no cert needed. Just start advertising your gunsmith/gun designer services on craigslist.

  41. 2 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    I really should get started at working on my guns but I'm having a hard time bringing myself to do it.
    5 guns and they all need various amounts of work.

  42. 2 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    What are some entry level skills i should learn to be a comfy gunsmith bros. Ive been practicing re-profiling A2 lowers to A1 and wanting to rebarrel old revolvers and rifles also gonna plan on doing checkering and other wood shit. I have customer service shit and web design but i dont want to be a total retard when i show up to this one place that takes up apprentices

    In 23 btw

    • 2 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      self-reply but I forgot to add I'm trans also if that matters

      • 2 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        People who are suicidal should not have firearms. Also YWNBAW

    • 2 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      single point threading on a lathe
      picking up holes with a test indicator
      cutting flat surfaces with a file
      inletting square corners with a chisel

  43. 2 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    >How to home build a bolt/gas system/locking system for an intermediate cartridge without a lathe or mill?
    This is the holy grail of the 3d gun movement

  44. 2 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    So ak and cetme flats are a thing i know of. How many other kinds are there?

  45. 2 weeks ago
    Anonymous
  46. 2 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    RIP first printed frame I was able to fit rails into. I'll try to clearance my pin holes more.

    • 2 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      Wrong shape or wrong place?

      • 2 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        Little of column A, little of column B. I'm trying to get polycarbonate to work and it shrinks like a motherfucker. I don't particularly care too much about it because I'm going to make a point of buying PLA+ in the future.

        • 2 weeks ago
          Anonymous

          >lose shitty coil spring from shitty taurus
          >can't find a replacement so make a flat spring to replace it
          I sure hope this works at least long enough to get it out the door

          can you make glocks out of clear purple nintendo plastic yet?

        • 2 weeks ago
          Anonymous

          look into push plastic cf nylon

  47. 2 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    Would Americans be interested in a 3D printable Norinco NP762 frame? I’m thinking of doing a cad drawing of the frame. If anyone wants it we can figure that out but I’m not going to make any myself.

    • 2 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      Go for it, the more the merrier

    • 2 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      Sure!

  48. 2 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    Any resources on how to make muskets and other muzzle loaders? Id do mre modern guns butttt glowies gonna glow and i do like them old gunz

    • 2 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      go through this guy's playlists. he's got some good stuff
      https://youtube.com/@homemadehistory7537

      • 2 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        Not for much longer 🙁

        • 2 weeks ago
          Anonymous

          that's why things like yt-dlp exist. Always save the stuff you like you never know when it'll get dissapeared

          • 2 weeks ago
            Anonymous

            That's true, but man I'm tired of having to buy more storage.

            • 2 weeks ago
              Anonymous

              Have you seen how cheap hard drives are? My god, SSDs are down to what HDDs were in like 2013. $60/TB or less for SSDs IIRC. HDDs even lower. I've been sitting on a 120/150gb SSD nearly unused until recently and I remember it being like $75 or whatever it was a couple years back, and that was on sale at that.

              • 2 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                Yeah, 300 doll hairs for 20 TB. I need about 4 of them.

  49. 2 weeks ago
    Anonymous
    • 2 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      I like big bolts and I cannot lie.

    • 2 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      I like it.

    • 2 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      This is a diy build? Also .50bmg?

      • 2 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        yes on both counts, an anon posted it long ago

    • 2 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      same anon?

  50. 2 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    One idea I haven't seen proposed that I've been ruminating on, is instead of 3d printing parts, either to directly use or as a lost cast, just print a mold negative (or make one from silicone) and cast parts using glass reinforced polyurethane that's available everywhere. Not as robust as aluminum, but probably a million times better than plastic printed parts, and you can reuse the mold. I've tried to find anyone who has tried this with no luck.

    • 2 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      We already have nylon anon.

    • 2 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      We already have nylon anon.

      Injection molding would allow for more precise parts as well as it being fast.
      Worth exploring imo.

      • 2 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        Injection molding is to the point where you may as well just get a lathe.

        • 2 weeks ago
          Anonymous

          [...]
          Injection molding would allow for more precise parts as well as it being fast.
          Worth exploring imo.

          buy a used haas mini mill with a 4th axis and build all the parts you want. If you are in US, you don't need to worry about rifling or reaming chambers.

        • 2 weeks ago
          Anonymous

          Injection molding is coming more and more into the realm of diy lately.

      • 2 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        Injection molding is coming more and more into the realm of diy lately.

        I'm specifically not talking about using thermoplastics because of heat and hardness/strength, which my understanding is where a lot of the problems with 3d printed gun parts come from. Polyurethane can't melt, and once set, stays hard and isn't really flexible.

        • 2 weeks ago
          Anonymous

          I see. Worth a try. You should go for it.

  51. 2 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    Anyone up for creating a new thread? I'll bump to keep it alive.

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