This, the markings on the shell say what they are.
The green one is marked "LG". That's a British size of buckshot that's about the same as American 000. The white one is no. 7 1/2 birdshot and it even gives the pellet diameter in mm.
I can't make out the digits from the yellow one in your pic, but it's probably an older system of labeling shotshells with three numbers: dram equivalent, shell length, and shot size. One of those numbers will be the dram equivalent of the powder load, probably the number 3. The middle is the length of the shell in mm (70mm = 2 3/4"), The other will be the shot size, looks like it could be a 6 or an 8?
If those marks are 9-70-9 that's quite confusing. One of the 9's makes sense for #9 shot. The 70 makes sense for 70mm shell length. But the other 9, which normally would be the dram equivalent of the powder load, makes no sense. For a 12ga that number might range from 2 for a really weak load to 3.5 or maybe 4 for a very strong one. So either one of those 9's is really a 3 (which would make sense), or it means something else entirely and I'm not sure what it could refer to.
Also, those yellow shells appear to have been loaded with slugs. And more specifically the slugs seem to have been inserted backwards. I think those shells were originally birdshot and someone dumped the shot out and loaded them with slugs instead.
Definitely seems to be 9-70-9, here's another shot without the glare.
>And more specifically the slugs seem to have been inserted backwards.
What does this mean? The white shells seem the same, no idea who the owner was but I found about 20 of them in total with an assortment of other things that indicate former law-enforcement or military (not USA).
>Definitely seems to be 9-70-9
Yeah, looks very clear in those pics. I'm honestly not sure what those numbers mean then. Like I said, one of them being a 9 and the other 70 make total sense but the second 9 doesn't make sense.
>What does this mean?
Most shotgun slugs are drag-stabilized. They do this by making the front of the solid and the back of the slug hollow. This puts the center of gravity of the slug in front of the center of mass which means it will fly nose-first and prevents it from tumbling. It's the same idea as a "diabolo" shaped airgun pellet or a shuttlewiener for badminton. In your pic you can see the hollow rear cavity of the slug pointing forward towards the mouth of the shell. It looks like a giant hollowpoint. Someone probably thought "woah, if load them backwards they'll like explode when they hit someone" or some crap like that. In reality they'll tumble and be very inaccurate.
If you want to learn more about the stability stuff go check out Taufledermaus on YT, they've done tons of slow-mo videos of various shotgun slug designs and you can see how they work.
2 years ago
Anonymous
>This puts the center of gravity of the slug in front of the center of mass
Whoops. Should be center of gravity in front of the center of DRAG.
2 years ago
Anonymous
Awesome explanation, really appreciate your time. I'll check that channel out shortly.
Whoo lawdy, were they hiding that thing in a car or something?
Weird story, the water geyser above the built-in closets burst shortly after I moved in and flooded it, when having the wood replaced the guys found a boarded-up safe that had all of this in it.
Previous owner had apparently died, I don't know anything other than that.
How would I tell? It looks like they're two different types of metal as one's more reflective than the other, but could also be due to age.
Pull it.
Tempting, but I can barely make out "anti-riot irritant" and I'm not sure handling a >20 explosive is a smart idea. I'll let the next home intruder figure out if it still works or not.
It is probably tear gas. I suppose that would work for getting somebody out of your house, but unless you have a gas mask on you'll be equally motivated to get out.
Also tear gas can occasionally catch on fire, or displace oxygen in confined spaces.
Definitely seems to be 9-70-9, here's another shot without the glare.
>And more specifically the slugs seem to have been inserted backwards.
What does this mean? The white shells seem the same, no idea who the owner was but I found about 20 of them in total with an assortment of other things that indicate former law-enforcement or military (not USA).
Thanks again for your patience.
thats birdshot somebody badly converted into slugs. its inserted backwards because its easier to shove in backwards.
Do low, mid, and high brass indicate anything?
>is dumb
low is generally only found on cheap birdshot/target loads
mid is normal heavier types of birdshot will be mid you can have buck that is mid but its more likely for buck to be highbrass.
high is buck slugs or magnum ammo.
>All were found with the same shotgun (Armsel Striker) >found with an Armsel Striker
You can't just casually mention it was found with a fricking STRIKER and not elaborate.
Not really. it's more of a marketing thing than anything else. Low brass hulls are plenty strong even for max power loads. People generally assume that "high brass is more powerful" but that's not a universally true rule.
from my experience pretty much every piece of advice given to me by boomers about shotguns, revolvers, or any weapons made before about 1970 has been advice like that. where they give you very specific guidelines on what works and what doesn't and can't actually explain why they're saying what they are.
This is true for nearly everything for any age group. Boomers talking about ammo for shotguns, hot rodders talking about the best torque converter for their drag strip car, housewives talking about cooking, gamers talking about building PCs...hardly anybody has enough experience that they've truly compared every option and can therefore speak with authority. Instead, most people simply parrot their own personal experience. When some boomer talks about how Hornady high-brass shotshells are the best for durr hunting it's exactly the same as when some zoomie talks about how Corsair RAM is the best for your PC. They're just talking about what happened to work for them.
The markings on the side of each hull will have the info you are looking for.
This, the markings on the shell say what they are.
The green one is marked "LG". That's a British size of buckshot that's about the same as American 000. The white one is no. 7 1/2 birdshot and it even gives the pellet diameter in mm.
I can't make out the digits from the yellow one in your pic, but it's probably an older system of labeling shotshells with three numbers: dram equivalent, shell length, and shot size. One of those numbers will be the dram equivalent of the powder load, probably the number 3. The middle is the length of the shell in mm (70mm = 2 3/4"), The other will be the shot size, looks like it could be a 6 or an 8?
Thanks for the explanation, it's greatly appreciated - no idea what the differences are or what the numbers mean as I've never had a shotgun before.
The numbers on the yellow one are 9-70-9, here's another shot of them.
those are slugs
If those marks are 9-70-9 that's quite confusing. One of the 9's makes sense for #9 shot. The 70 makes sense for 70mm shell length. But the other 9, which normally would be the dram equivalent of the powder load, makes no sense. For a 12ga that number might range from 2 for a really weak load to 3.5 or maybe 4 for a very strong one. So either one of those 9's is really a 3 (which would make sense), or it means something else entirely and I'm not sure what it could refer to.
Also, those yellow shells appear to have been loaded with slugs. And more specifically the slugs seem to have been inserted backwards. I think those shells were originally birdshot and someone dumped the shot out and loaded them with slugs instead.
Definitely seems to be 9-70-9, here's another shot without the glare.
>And more specifically the slugs seem to have been inserted backwards.
What does this mean? The white shells seem the same, no idea who the owner was but I found about 20 of them in total with an assortment of other things that indicate former law-enforcement or military (not USA).
Thanks again for your patience.
>Definitely seems to be 9-70-9
Yeah, looks very clear in those pics. I'm honestly not sure what those numbers mean then. Like I said, one of them being a 9 and the other 70 make total sense but the second 9 doesn't make sense.
>What does this mean?
Most shotgun slugs are drag-stabilized. They do this by making the front of the solid and the back of the slug hollow. This puts the center of gravity of the slug in front of the center of mass which means it will fly nose-first and prevents it from tumbling. It's the same idea as a "diabolo" shaped airgun pellet or a shuttlewiener for badminton. In your pic you can see the hollow rear cavity of the slug pointing forward towards the mouth of the shell. It looks like a giant hollowpoint. Someone probably thought "woah, if load them backwards they'll like explode when they hit someone" or some crap like that. In reality they'll tumble and be very inaccurate.
If you want to learn more about the stability stuff go check out Taufledermaus on YT, they've done tons of slow-mo videos of various shotgun slug designs and you can see how they work.
>This puts the center of gravity of the slug in front of the center of mass
Whoops. Should be center of gravity in front of the center of DRAG.
Awesome explanation, really appreciate your time. I'll check that channel out shortly.
Weird story, the water geyser above the built-in closets burst shortly after I moved in and flooded it, when having the wood replaced the guys found a boarded-up safe that had all of this in it.
Previous owner had apparently died, I don't know anything other than that.
Bonus grenade I forgot to attach.
Pull it.
Can you tell if the actual slug material is lead?
How would I tell? It looks like they're two different types of metal as one's more reflective than the other, but could also be due to age.
Tempting, but I can barely make out "anti-riot irritant" and I'm not sure handling a >20 explosive is a smart idea. I'll let the next home intruder figure out if it still works or not.
>How would I tell?
you might try this
https://www.weldinghandbook.com/types-of-metals/metal-identification/
It is probably tear gas. I suppose that would work for getting somebody out of your house, but unless you have a gas mask on you'll be equally motivated to get out.
Also tear gas can occasionally catch on fire, or displace oxygen in confined spaces.
>How would I tell?
Lead is super soft, you can easily cut into it with the tip of a knife or other sharp object. No other common metal will do that.
thats birdshot somebody badly converted into slugs. its inserted backwards because its easier to shove in backwards.
low is generally only found on cheap birdshot/target loads
mid is normal heavier types of birdshot will be mid you can have buck that is mid but its more likely for buck to be highbrass.
high is buck slugs or magnum ammo.
>All were found with the same shotgun (Armsel Striker)
>found with an Armsel Striker
You can't just casually mention it was found with a fricking STRIKER and not elaborate.
The Striker was unfortunately taken in an armed robbery a few years ago, all I have left is this case and ammunition.
Sad it disappeared, it was in great condition (unlike the CZ that was found with it, which was rusted to shit).
Whoo lawdy, were they hiding that thing in a car or something?
sorry for your loss fren
Timothy McVeigh was so cute.
Do low, mid, and high brass indicate anything?
>is dumb
Not really. it's more of a marketing thing than anything else. Low brass hulls are plenty strong even for max power loads. People generally assume that "high brass is more powerful" but that's not a universally true rule.
I have read "low brass" (white & yellow shells) are generally less reliable in traditional semi-auto.
So that is kinda unusual.
from my experience pretty much every piece of advice given to me by boomers about shotguns, revolvers, or any weapons made before about 1970 has been advice like that. where they give you very specific guidelines on what works and what doesn't and can't actually explain why they're saying what they are.
This is true for nearly everything for any age group. Boomers talking about ammo for shotguns, hot rodders talking about the best torque converter for their drag strip car, housewives talking about cooking, gamers talking about building PCs...hardly anybody has enough experience that they've truly compared every option and can therefore speak with authority. Instead, most people simply parrot their own personal experience. When some boomer talks about how Hornady high-brass shotshells are the best for durr hunting it's exactly the same as when some zoomie talks about how Corsair RAM is the best for your PC. They're just talking about what happened to work for them.
Not since the days of blackpowder.
The extra brass height was to prevent the BP from burning pinholes in the paper case.