your task is to design the most cost efficient, durable house possible,
you can use tarp, wattle, recycled cans.. garbage whatever you chose,
what does your design plan look like?
your task is to design the most cost efficient, durable house possible,. you can use tarp, wattle, recycled cans..
>find a cave
Done
there are no caves unfortunately
>Buy a shovel
>Make a cave
Done
No shovels in Romania
Drop your wallet down some hole, get instant gypsy-made cave
A bunker cave stuffed with shipping containers and a Very Tall exciting lookout tower so you can SEE Mommy bringing tendies in time to loob up then fuk her bowlegged. Romance matters.
Spergtard caves must suit the Gaian unbirthing fetish to be properly delectable fap fodder. They must cum-fort as babby krawls inside, and have room for maternal comfort missions that Mommy may engulf babby in cum-forting phlesh.
Autspergtism, bunkercaves, containers and incest are of a piece. Housing fantasies are intensely important to PrepHole where dreaming is the closest social and economic incompetents will get to owning anything better than a wet cardboard box. Especially exciting are EXOTIC shell construction methods which appeal to ignorants who imagine shell cost the greatest barrier to affordable erection. The constant fantasy comparison between countercultural building methods offers distractive amusement (freed from any goal of actual construction). These threads are all the same, and posted as if the poster never read any other threads because (not being serious) they did not.
>there are no caves unfortunately
Dig one (Romania excepted, no caves in Romania). The fact any cave or mine has been dug by hand proves that practical for YOUR use case because ree. You just have to believe. This IS PrepHole so the goal must be the process and that process must be as primitive as possible. A trowel will do or even a sharpened spoon. WWII prison camp escape tunnels prove the job can be exciting.
Best post I've read all year.
Please continue refusing to take your meds.
>shipping container
>underground
why are there so many of you morons on this board?
you can't just bury a shipping container, it will collapse, and if you reenforce it with concrete, congrats you just made the worlds most expensive form/rebar.
in 110% of cases you are better off making a plywood form and making a concrete and reo box. it"s like 1/10th the cost and at least as strong if not significantly moreso.
hahaha
you should get metal
Raised A-frame atop cinder blocks or something. Could probably make most of it from scaffolding. An inner and outer layer of tarp would trap air between that could help with insulation.
This is similar to a polytunnel build where you add two layers of poly with a blower to inflate the area between. This has the same effect. Being raised from the ground should help prevent heat loss to the earth, but you'll want some thermal mass (black barrels filled with water, etc.) If you find a way to heat it in cycles.
>This is similar to a polytunnel build
I really want to learn more about building polytunnels but I don't know where to start.
I've seen a few designs where they dig out a trench but I don;t really understand how they work
walls are overrated, bro
Windows are what keep you sane.
say what?
Mud hut adobe with beer bottles for light
Disneyland even has one
Im too busy and important to share my infinite wisdom
Same.
Find a government program that will pay you to build a home. You can't be more cost effective than costing negative money
>whatever you chose
CAVE
I'm not designing your house for you.
For which climate? Savannas of Africa? Rural Norway? Some SEA jungle? The Mojave? The Alps? The midwest?
Makes a huge difference.
An inner concrete cube with huge steel piles driven to bedrock.
2 feet of insulating material.
Then a second cube of concrete surrounding it.
Door is an airlock.
Energy is solar and wind.
Anything with Aerated concrete will be very efficient in terms of resource use, given that all resources are readily available.
The walls will have to be thick though, to get good insulation. Give it a nice hat and boots and it will last forever.
I make mine with a used plastic bottle roof because apparently they last forever.
Squat in a house owned by Blackrock.
beat me to it
I am building a house out of teflon fry pans from the landfill. It should last longer than andrew's container castle because his will rust.
are the glassbottles in concrete walls viable for good isolation?
it would feel more isolating if you omitted the glass bottles and used a plain gray concrete wall instead for that prison cell feel
>your task is to design the most cost efficient, durable house possible,
most cost efficient or most durable??
If i am supposed to be maximising both then i guess a good solution would be a shipping container home
stickbuilt is cheaper and better than shipping container. shipping containers are just a meme item and take so much retrofitting that you might as well not have purchased the shipping container in the first place.
geodesic triangle dome from old yield signs
How many have you personally retrofitted for any purpose and under what circumstances for what goals?
They work fine for those not wanting delicate stickbuilt firetraps but the way to use them is as the military and industry do. I would have no problem converting another one-trip HC with doors on both ends (I already have two as shop space plus two 40-foot single door HCs joined as a shop) or joining two with bolted flanges for mobility if I expected to move.
Containers are easy to work inside if you don't do stupid shit like using standard height containers or trash grade containers. Every problem has been solved by industry and military builders like Sea Box. Ignore artgays (kill them all) and tinyspergs then copy what real men take to war or the oil patch.
These are wagie fantasy threads though and the objective is poorgays dreaming ways to not be losers but without acting to cure their core personal problems.
Steel boxes don't rot, don't burn (leave enough firebreak to prevent cooking due to external heat), are easy to place, easy to relocate and easy to modify. Mine protect my motorcycle collection from humidity and vermin far better than conventional buildings which are difficult to really seal and unlike containers are rarely typhoon-rated. I can inert mine with CO2 (thanks to industrial extinguishers scored at auction) should a wildly unlikely internal fire happen.
i believe future of housing is growing industrial hemp (or any alternative), compressing it and converting to either blocks or panels, which when precise building should leave no gaps between. or something like that, because if you really wanna go crazy on cost efficient, the house has to be zero-energy.
Concrete has a bottleneck - sand. what do you think?
My latest idea is to build with earthbags but instead fill them with gravel and enough thinned out portland cement that the gravel locks together but still has air spaces for insulation. I'll tumble the slurry in a cement mixer then pour it into a earthbag, they are woven so the excess water in the cement soup can escape. Gravel is $150 a cubic yard here so I'm thinking 12 or so yards should do a 12 x18 small cabin although I haven't actually done the math on that. I'm thinking cover it with adobe so its breathable.
Please shoot down this idea if you can its my own idea to get a cabin built quickly for (hopefully) around $5k and I don't want to waste my time or $ if there's a huge flaw with this idea. I'm building on a natural sandstone slab that will serve as a foundation. I may drill the sandstone and set in some rebar for the first course then punch the rebar through the still soft bags as I set them. The slab isn't perfectly level but I think I can fill in dips with bags and get it level by the first or second course with a laser level and using bubble level for the sides.
You can just use rammed earth anon. It's got a similar strength to actual concrete if it's done correctly
I've already done a shed sized building out of rammed earth earthbags. It ended being a metric shit ton of work getting the dirt out of the ground, its hardpack here. My method was pickaxe > shovel into wheelbarrow > load into cement mixer > add water and a little cement (not sure cement was necessary) > tumble to fluff the moist soil > load into bags > stack > tamp bags. Using gravel my method will be pickup gravel from gravel yard with pickup truck > load into mixer with cement (need to figure out optimal cement and water ratio so the cement loosely binds the gravel with airspaces) > load into bags and place > tamp. Because the pickup sits higher then the mixer I will be working downhill with the ingredients making shoveling the gravel much easier. If I can figure out the recipe I'm thinking the thinned out cement will loosely bind the gravel with airspaces so the bags aren't the only thing holding it together after it cures. A cubic yard of gravel should make around 25 square feet of wall if wall thickness of 1 foot is used technically 27 (3 x 3 x3 square feet) but some will be lost as always.
I've thought about this a lot it seems like a great balance between cost and efficiency with the added benefit that airspaces in the gravel will give the walls insulation properties which is huge.
Build a sample structure or sections to test. Never practice on your project. It's much cheaper to test and know then just jump in without experience.
Thinned out cement is the opposite of what you want to make this even begin to work (to the degree that it might)...
Besides the fact that more water in the mix makes it weaker when cured, even when thoroughly mixed into the gravel thinned out cement will just drip off and pool up as the motion of moving the mixed material causes it to stay loose and runny.
A far better plan would be to determine the amount of water needed to create a paste-y cement mix, then dampen the gravel with some of it in the mixer, and then add the dry cement powder so it coats the gravel evenly with minimum water content, and mix it thoroughly to wet out the powder (slaking)...only then add any leftover water if necessary to wet out any residual powder, and do it by misting the mix to prevent washing the paste off of the gravel.
This is your best bet* for having any chance that the cement will be distributed in a way that actually glues the gravel grains together; doing it thin will just give you a pour that is a layer of weak concrete on the bottom with essentially loose gravel on top.
*personally I would also add an admixture to allow better flow, adhesion and improved elastomeric qualities
https://www.concretenetwork.com/concrete/concrete_admixtures/types.html
Thanks I plan to experiment with a couple different mixes to try to find the best ratio by trying a few different recipes then breaking open the test bags with a sledge hammer to see whats strong. What you're saying makes sense.
Ring of reinforced concrete pillars with buttresses, concrete bond beam around the top. Get the long continuous mesh tubes and fill with perlite to go around it like with earthbags. Fill in between the pillars with whatever, maybe a door somewhere. Earthen plaster walls inside for mass. Tamped earth floor, linseed oil to seal for hardness, maybe wax on top of that if you want to be able to mop. Timbrel vault tile or ferrocement dome for roof, epdm roof liner for waterproof then more concrete. Double thin shell could allow for roof insulation. Earthen or lime plaster outside walls.
This leaves outside walls unprotected. Maybe a cool wrap around porch so the house looks like a hat.
https://earthbagbuilding.wordpress.com/2010/10/18/perlite-roundhouses/
https://naturalbuildingblog.com/more-on-timbrel-roofs/
http://www.flyingconcrete.com/vaults.html
https://www.grisb.org/publications/pub11.htm tamped earth floor
https://naturalbuildingblog.com/earthen-plaster-summary-part-1/
Not durable but cheap. Garbage tents modeled after the Mongolian yurt are economical if you have access to garbage. Billboard vinyl is great but this lady really used whatever and wanted to have a hippy hooverville setup. I think the glowies killed her because she wrote some tinfoil tier stuff on her blog.
Could insulate with boron treated wool if you can get cheap wool.
https://nikiraapana.blogspot.com/2012/11/five-gertee-travelers-combined.html?m=1
https://www.instructables.com/member/AlaskanTentLady/instructables/
Another idea I like is quonset hut, spray foam for barrier, then fiber reinforced shotcrete over it. Could bury in after if you are subterranean autist. Not cheap but durable.
For inspiration
https://vikingshelters.com/
Earthbags are really cool but my understanding is they have a high time cost but should be cheap in materials and good durability.
Which have you personally constructed and what did you learn?
pod living deluxe
imagine a giant claw machine picking one of those up and moving it somewhere else while your state-diagnosed sleeping pills kept you from waking up
Using garbage isn't cost efficient for this. I'd probably do one of three things:
>A-frame hut, preferably on stilts
>arched cabin bought online lol they're not very expensive in the grand scheme of things
>figure out how to make one of those 70's bubble houses - spray-on concrete and a big balloon are basically all you need.
Sandwich panels
Even better, connect prefabbed containers and weld the frames together as you expand the modular ghetto shack and turn it into one of those modular japanese honeycomb hostels and asimilate more containers into it with the rent money you get from the underbelly of the place and travelers
Hire mexicans.
Holy borg picard meme, anon.
Any of Mike Oehler's underground housing guides. There's a video too around online.
>your task is to design the most cost efficient, durable house possible
for what environment? you want high thermal mass in colder climates, lower thermal mass in warmer climates
wattle+daub for cold
Under de ground
Any building style where 90% of the cost is labour.
Cob and pounded earth are especially cheap. You need enough land for meter thick walls. Only downsides are you're still going to want load bearing interior walls if it's 2 floors and you will likely want interior walls (could just be drywalls) so you have things to run utilities behind.
i'll build a house with concrete and steel beams
A car
Not OP but where do I learn about house design and ergonomics? Aesthetics also, but less so. I want to build a house or renovate something with good structure so my parents could live with me in the future as they get older. I'm not sure if I have the wording for it, so I believe that is why I'm lost.
For example, I read the book "Make Your house do the housework" which is an older book focused on design choices that minimize maintenance and repair. How do I go deeper in this sort of knowledge?
>How do I go deeper in this sort of knowledge?
Books and courses can help, for sure, but this is a lifetime experience sort of thing. Live in as many places as you can. Visit in as many homes as you can. Talk to people but keep in mind they are not likely to say "yeah, my house really sucks because of A, B, and C."
Simple things like having two floors and the top floor stays a lot warmer than the lower floor can only be appreciated once you have tried to deal with it. Also, the american stupidity of having a dining area in the kitchen but another larger dining room (great if you actually like inviting 12 people to dinner), or the room that you actually use vs that huge formal living room that you don't use.
As for your parents living with you, good luck with that. Will there be one kitchen or two?
>Will there be one kitchen or two?
Good question. Sounds like I have more experience to develop because I didn't really consider 2 kitchens as an option.
meant for
It's very inefficient but I approach unfamiliar topics with search for hours until I learn more words to search. Usually once I find the magic word it's like hitting the jackpot and a bunch of things begin to click. The keyword you might be looking for is multigenerational home. Could be as simple as a cuckshed built like a studio apartment or something more elaborate like a big house with second master suite connected to its own living room, almost like another wing in the house.
The multigeneration home was more popular in the past, maybe even the norm. Would be kind of exotic if built here but those rectangle Chinese courtyard houses come to mind. If big house, courtyard house, or cuckshed don't seem appealing you might look up duplexes. I might use different search terms for the cuckshed. Granny suite is probably the more google friendly term for that.
>It's very inefficient but I approach unfamiliar topics with search for hours until I learn more words to search
This is helpful. Thanks.
I was thinking of a soil melter. So it would be hot enough to turn mud and small rocks into liquid magma. Then you could use this to build a foundation. Then some 3D printed concrete or just more molten dirt to make walls.
I like the way you think. Aluminum oxide with a little chromium dioxide forms a strong translucent ceramic that floresces nonvisible light to visible spectrum. Aka rubies. Cut them into similar dimensions as slate roofing tiles and now you have a cool roof in both senses of the word. Stick a radiant reflective surface beneath and you seriously minimize the heah gain through the roof. Air conditioner? I hardly know her!
Keep a few bigger slabs for windows to be even cooler. See the world through rose colored glasses. Nets you a lot of leed credits and carbon pardon. Your social credit score would skyrocket.
Van. Drive it out of the way of danger.