I have F, O and Q bits, getting a bit for a screw or tap you use commonly isn't some absurd idea. You can get close with an 1/8 and 9/64 isn't some absurd size.
use superior German >Senkfräßtaschenkopfschrauben mit Teilgewinde und Bohrspitze
Countersinking milling pocket head screws with partial thread and predrilling tip.
Spline (as in actual spline - see pic) has the highest torque capacity of all mechanical connections, but it requires tight tolerances and good alignment. It's used for things like drive shafts and PTO connections.
he's making it sound fancier than it is (even though it is a marvel of engineering). a bucket of GRKs (which have all of these features) is like $30 at home depot
Spax, GRK or Griprite deck screws? All are fricking great and just drill right trough whatever the frick with no problem. I love GRK cabinet screws in particular.
>spaxposting
too good for these savages
https://i.imgur.com/nMNQ0yP.jpg
stop using shitty pot metal Phillips screws
use superior German >Senkfräßtaschenkopfschrauben mit Teilgewinde und Bohrspitze
Countersinking milling pocket head screws with partial thread and predrilling tip.
Most homeowners don't have or are unaware of an impact driver. They grab the cheapest Phillips drywall screws and pray they don't have to go back to get those stupid butterfly anchors.
I was using regular screws with impact driver, they split wood. Maybe self tapping screws are required?
You need a countersink, finish end screws or cabinet flush end screws. On screws like this look for flutes under the head, those will drill the countersink most of the time. Most deck screws are self tapping.
I love the GRK cab screws too. They have such a strong drive and suck you hardly have to worry about alignment or clamping. It's so easy to pop them in and not worry about it. The perfect screw for screw & glue when looks don't matter. Difference between them and regular screws is huge. I like to use a forstner bit to hollow out an area to sink them into. I got some plug cutters to fill that up, but haven't gotten around to perfecting that particular fill.
> self tappers
Self tapping screws are for infants.
Screw holes should be individually tapped with a special tap every time—especially for construction and other critical structural applications.
I started framing my house in 2003. I’m half done now.
One would figure this shit is for hella brittle wood like ebony where a self tapper would split the wienersucker right in two but who tf knows, imagine the moron to snap one of those off in a piece of wood though
Sorry, here's a better example of the flutes I was talking about here
https://i.imgur.com/TipZA6L.jpg
Spax, GRK or Griprite deck screws? All are fricking great and just drill right trough whatever the frick with no problem. I love GRK cabinet screws in particular.
[...]
[...]
Most homeowners don't have or are unaware of an impact driver. They grab the cheapest Phillips drywall screws and pray they don't have to go back to get those stupid butterfly anchors.
[...]
You need a countersink, finish end screws or cabinet flush end screws. On screws like this look for flutes under the head, those will drill the countersink most of the time. Most deck screws are self tapping.
. Also make sure you aren't putting your screws close in a straight line with the grain, that will split it no matter what and requires predrilling at that point.
I normally predrill only because I kept stripping out screws. Then I got a box of GRKs from Home Depot and they zipped right in. I think I’ll just keep buying those, the higher cost is well worth the convenience
I half-ass my predrills. I just use a drill that looks rite. I figure if it gets some material of out the way then that's enough to not push out the wood and frick the piece. Only a israelite homosexual would give it more thought.
>Only a israelite homosexual would give it more thought
You're thinking of an autistic German.
A israelite would say it's a waste of time and money to pre-drill, then when the wood splits, he would take it out of the paychecks of the underpaid laborers that he hired to build his tenament buildings.
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA
the only time I ever predrilled was doing purlins on a roof and those nails are 6 inches. even then sometimes they weren't drilled straight, or the truss was off and they would blow out so you had to pull them out and hand nail them without predrilled holes
I'm building a dome out of oak (former pallets) The wood is so tough that after predrilling with a bit the size of the minor diameter for 90% of the length of the 3 1/2 torx screw, I have to put ~150lbs of force on the screwdriver to finish the drive without cam out.
>You wouldn't just half ass it, right?
Buddy, I don't even put 1/4 ass into my work. I ram screws like that in raw with the wrong size phillips bit so I strip the heads.
I can't stand those kind of pre drills. They're designed for old school wood screws, and not only the diameter but the length need to match the wood screw you're using. Also those are specialty taper bits in a hex base, and when they break they're expensive and inconvenient to replace. In addition the floating countersink often comes loose in use.
Now, a set of Snappy bits make much more sense. They use standard size drill bits that are commonplace and easy to replace, and are a better match for modern cabinet and construction screws. The coutersink and base are machined in one solid piece, with a large set screw, so there's never any slippage. Plus they're made in America.
with the torx head there's really no need for an impact. I understand the benefit of an impact with phillips, but that's part of why I'm grk-only now. my m12 installation driver is all i have needed. Drives huge rated structural screws no problem, and can get into every tight spot in your house. any homeowner/weekender who gets some meme "drill + driver" combo kit instead of this (or one of its equivalents on the market) is doing themselves a huge disservice.
actually I'll walk that back a little bit before I post -- I have used my stubby impact wrench to drive big lag screws for TV wall mounts, so I guess if you get impact driver to socket adapters it could be useful? but better to just get an impact wrench for auto work if, again, you're a weekender
>any homeowner/weekender who gets some meme "drill + driver" combo kit instead of this (or one of its equivalents on the market) is doing themselves a huge disservice.
To think village idiot bepis almost convinced me to buy one of those impact driver sets. I bet even his dildo is ridgid.
again, as a homeowner / dad you need to do way more delicate stuff in knuckle-busting tight corners than you do big ugga dugga impacting and hole boring. And it's plenty powerful for running big hole saws. I have needed a big corded drill for boring into treestumps, and my impact wrench for lag screws (which I could have just done with a hand ratchet), but I grab my installation driver like three times a day for random shit and it is a delight to use every single time.
This was an foolish, misguided attempt by the chinese marketing/mba interns that run the milwaulkee show to clone the festool.
That being said, it was their best engineering feat and most innovative thing they’ve ever done since becoming a chinese company. Except for the copying… that core competency was expected.
Milwaukee already made a multi-head drill system based off of their Gen 2 Fuel drill. It was mostly sold in Europe and they design the Installation Driver for the global market.
https://i.imgur.com/d7XiZgW.jpg
This was an foolish, misguided attempt by the chinese marketing/mba interns that run the milwaulkee show to clone the festool.
That being said, it was their best engineering feat and most innovative thing they’ve ever done since becoming a chinese company. Except for the copying… that core competency was expected.
Besides copying Festool i think their approach was that their target customers (cabinet makers and specialty carpenters) were already used to the formfactor and would be happy to buy something cheaper than Festool. Personally i think its an ergonomic disaster for the placement of the forward/reverse switch alone but i hear they are really popular with electricians now who work in tight spaces.
>cheaper than Festool. Personally i think its an ergonomic disaster for the placement of the forward/reverse switch
i bungle it once in a while but it's really a non issue. it feels amazing in the hand.
I just hammer my screws in. Much faster.
Ryobi impact go brrrrrr
if your using screws your already half assing it
*squeak squeak squeak squeak squeak*
winning reply
take the joinery pill
>your
you screwed that one up
yeah bro let me just grab out my frickin 9/64
> misplaced my 9/64
Just use a 1/8 and wiggle it a bit. Works up to 3/4" with enough wiggling. Accurate, too.
alternatively you can buy ryobi bits because they'll come with bit wobble anyway
Looks fine to me.
>Works up to 3/4"
how much do you have to wiggle a 1/8 to get a 3/4 hole lmao
More than 1/2"
Even using a 1/8 bit is better than nothing.
buy any decent drill bit set and you'll get a 9/64
pic unrelated
reply unrelated
I have F, O and Q bits, getting a bit for a screw or tap you use commonly isn't some absurd idea. You can get close with an 1/8 and 9/64 isn't some absurd size.
>he doesn't have a quality twist drill index 1/16" - 1/2" by the 64th
Isn't 9/64 the fractional tap drill for 8-32 machine screws? How can you not have one?
Only if you’re being lazy and don’t care about sloppy thread fitment. A #29 wire gage bit standard. It’s a .004 difference.
Yeah
I punch and center drill too
wanna fight about it?
Wtf is a clearance hole?
> clearance hole
The piece on top doesn’t need theads in it.
Also some screws (stupidly, not the one in the pic) dont have threads near the head.
a cheap date
If you were supposed to pre-drill, they wouldn’t need pointy tips on em
I ALWAYS PRE BOSS
>9/64"
What in the moon units
I predrill, hand screw, then use the drill. Am I autistic?
stop using shitty pot metal Phillips screws
use superior German
>Senkfräßtaschenkopfschrauben mit Teilgewinde und Bohrspitze
Countersinking milling pocket head screws with partial thread and predrilling tip.
>spaxposting
too good for these savages
OK, boomer
Spline looks like it was designed for maximum stripping
Spline (as in actual spline - see pic) has the highest torque capacity of all mechanical connections, but it requires tight tolerances and good alignment. It's used for things like drive shafts and PTO connections.
i bet pozidrive has max special attack.
slotted screws shouldnt be used for anything other than outlet faceplates
To hell with that. Since the first time I did a deck with six-lobe instead of phillips, I have never purchased another phillips deck screw.
No idea what a box of those would cost but I bet it's in large caliber rifle ammo territory.
he's making it sound fancier than it is (even though it is a marvel of engineering). a bucket of GRKs (which have all of these features) is like $30 at home depot
i fricking love grks so much
spax screws suck
This is the best screw I ever used
Spax, GRK or Griprite deck screws? All are fricking great and just drill right trough whatever the frick with no problem. I love GRK cabinet screws in particular.
Most homeowners don't have or are unaware of an impact driver. They grab the cheapest Phillips drywall screws and pray they don't have to go back to get those stupid butterfly anchors.
You need a countersink, finish end screws or cabinet flush end screws. On screws like this look for flutes under the head, those will drill the countersink most of the time. Most deck screws are self tapping.
I love the GRK cab screws too. They have such a strong drive and suck you hardly have to worry about alignment or clamping. It's so easy to pop them in and not worry about it. The perfect screw for screw & glue when looks don't matter. Difference between them and regular screws is huge. I like to use a forstner bit to hollow out an area to sink them into. I got some plug cutters to fill that up, but haven't gotten around to perfecting that particular fill.
>I like to use a forstner bit to hollow out an area to sink them into
Don't use plugs, I would be too proud.
I love those GRKs
So many replies and no mention of self-tapping screws.
None of you actually do any real work do you
You didn't actually read the thread did you?
> self tappers
Self tapping screws are for infants.
Screw holes should be individually tapped with a special tap every time—especially for construction and other critical structural applications.
I started framing my house in 2003. I’m half done now.
One would figure this shit is for hella brittle wood like ebony where a self tapper would split the wienersucker right in two but who tf knows, imagine the moron to snap one of those off in a piece of wood though
You have to be a special kind of stupid to break a tap in wood.
>look at me guys, i just said something no one's ever said before
>im so smart and you're all so dumb tee hee
My drill hasn't seen a screw in years. Impact driver all the way
>You do predrill, don't you
For certain situations and applications. Always with hardwoods.
I was using regular screws with impact driver, they split wood. Maybe self tapping screws are required?
Sorry, here's a better example of the flutes I was talking about here
. Also make sure you aren't putting your screws close in a straight line with the grain, that will split it no matter what and requires predrilling at that point.
I do a pilot hole but what is a clearance hole and why is that a different color?
I normally predrill only because I kept stripping out screws. Then I got a box of GRKs from Home Depot and they zipped right in. I think I’ll just keep buying those, the higher cost is well worth the convenience
The GRKs are nice screws but I don’t use them anymore because—at the end of the day—the’re not robertson.
I had to re-work some stuff so i started unscrewing it, and then i hit some GRKs and I didn’t have any green torx bits and nearly burst a vein.
When i need a 16" long deck screw, i will still get a grk because they’re harder to find in that length.
I half-ass my predrills. I just use a drill that looks rite. I figure if it gets some material of out the way then that's enough to not push out the wood and frick the piece. Only a israelite homosexual would give it more thought.
>Only a israelite homosexual would give it more thought
You're thinking of an autistic German.
A israelite would say it's a waste of time and money to pre-drill, then when the wood splits, he would take it out of the paychecks of the underpaid laborers that he hired to build his tenament buildings.
I buy drywall screws for steel framing. They have a drill bit tip.
Can't get them at lowes
yes for the entire deck, i hate myself
>his screws don't do the drilling
ngmi
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA
the only time I ever predrilled was doing purlins on a roof and those nails are 6 inches. even then sometimes they weren't drilled straight, or the truss was off and they would blow out so you had to pull them out and hand nail them without predrilled holes
I'm building a dome out of oak (former pallets) The wood is so tough that after predrilling with a bit the size of the minor diameter for 90% of the length of the 3 1/2 torx screw, I have to put ~150lbs of force on the screwdriver to finish the drive without cam out.
ur moms a clearance hole
if your impact driver has power then you dont need to pre drill
impact driver go's CHUK CHUK CHUK
1/16" for alignment then j-j-jam it in
i cant be fricked to learn the minor diameters of all my screws
>You wouldn't just half ass it, right?
Buddy, I don't even put 1/4 ass into my work. I ram screws like that in raw with the wrong size phillips bit so I strip the heads.
Anything less would be uncivilized.
Real tapered wood screws were proven to be worse than untapered machine screws every time
I can't stand those kind of pre drills. They're designed for old school wood screws, and not only the diameter but the length need to match the wood screw you're using. Also those are specialty taper bits in a hex base, and when they break they're expensive and inconvenient to replace. In addition the floating countersink often comes loose in use.
Now, a set of Snappy bits make much more sense. They use standard size drill bits that are commonplace and easy to replace, and are a better match for modern cabinet and construction screws. The coutersink and base are machined in one solid piece, with a large set screw, so there's never any slippage. Plus they're made in America.
1/4 inch or 5.35p11liter mm impact driver and frick all those countersink sissy bits.
I predrill your mom with my dick
Imagine not using hex headed screws and driving the c**ts in with an impact.
State of this thread.
Imagine never building anything with a nice finish
Low IQ work
with the torx head there's really no need for an impact. I understand the benefit of an impact with phillips, but that's part of why I'm grk-only now. my m12 installation driver is all i have needed. Drives huge rated structural screws no problem, and can get into every tight spot in your house. any homeowner/weekender who gets some meme "drill + driver" combo kit instead of this (or one of its equivalents on the market) is doing themselves a huge disservice.
actually I'll walk that back a little bit before I post -- I have used my stubby impact wrench to drive big lag screws for TV wall mounts, so I guess if you get impact driver to socket adapters it could be useful? but better to just get an impact wrench for auto work if, again, you're a weekender
PH2, T10, and T25. everything in my life is grk now. the little t10 finish screws are really a nice alternative to busting out the brad nailgun
Get one of those double sided Milwaukee bits with Philips and T25 to streamline your loadout.
Best bit is my T25 and T20 double sided, i call it my "T-something bit" as it will probobly fit whatever T-something bits you come across.
till you meet me, mr homosexual himself, who uses those T10 trim heads
>any homeowner/weekender who gets some meme "drill + driver" combo kit instead of this (or one of its equivalents on the market) is doing themselves a huge disservice.
To think village idiot bepis almost convinced me to buy one of those impact driver sets. I bet even his dildo is ridgid.
bepis loathes this thing
again, as a homeowner / dad you need to do way more delicate stuff in knuckle-busting tight corners than you do big ugga dugga impacting and hole boring. And it's plenty powerful for running big hole saws. I have needed a big corded drill for boring into treestumps, and my impact wrench for lag screws (which I could have just done with a hand ratchet), but I grab my installation driver like three times a day for random shit and it is a delight to use every single time.
This was an foolish, misguided attempt by the chinese marketing/mba interns that run the milwaulkee show to clone the festool.
That being said, it was their best engineering feat and most innovative thing they’ve ever done since becoming a chinese company. Except for the copying… that core competency was expected.
i have seen comparisons that have the milwaukee beating the festool. plus then you're not locked in to the fricking festool ecosystem.
I prefer the Bosch version of this as it's even smaller meaning I actually carry it around and use it. I also really like their magnetic work light...
Milwaukee already made a multi-head drill system based off of their Gen 2 Fuel drill. It was mostly sold in Europe and they design the Installation Driver for the global market.
Besides copying Festool i think their approach was that their target customers (cabinet makers and specialty carpenters) were already used to the formfactor and would be happy to buy something cheaper than Festool. Personally i think its an ergonomic disaster for the placement of the forward/reverse switch alone but i hear they are really popular with electricians now who work in tight spaces.
>cheaper than Festool. Personally i think its an ergonomic disaster for the placement of the forward/reverse switch
i bungle it once in a while but it's really a non issue. it feels amazing in the hand.
how the frick do you not know how to do this?
>not know how
predrilling is usually reserved unskilled laborers
>using screws on wood
you disgust me to no end