Even if it is in CAD. You can get a V2 for that kind of money right now.
I got kicked out of here b4
Can this print metal? How do I get a custom metal piece out of it like a blinker surround?
I have to print a plastic slug then make a sand mold then polish?
Can I print transparent light plastic with it?
>Can this print metal?
No. >How do I get a custom metal piece out of it like a blinker surround?
Investment casting. >Can I print transparent light plastic with it?
Yes, if it's thin enough.
3d printing guns is a whole ass hobby and a lot of work, but if you are willing to spend the time well worth it and very economical in the long run
you will need about 600 dollars more shit to actually make guns tho
Bullshit, a $100 Ender 3 Pro is capable of the vast majority of gun-related projects out of the box.
I've had 4 different Ender 3D printers.
Every single one of them failed for one reason or another after about a month of printing.
Stop buying unmarked returns from sketchy resellers.
>Stop buying unmarked returns from sketchy resellers.
1 from ebay, 3 from different sellers on amazon.
Never had a printer make it through more than 2 spools of filament before having a major issue.
>3 from different sellers on amazon.
Case in point. Amazon resellers are nothing but scams and bootlegs these days.
No, it's always been an extrusion related issue.
>is too stupid to replace a $15 motor
moron
I got a pro V2 for 200 even used with 5 spools of filament recently, I've got pla printing down, do I need to to look into nylon or petg to make gun shit? I'm looking at Ctrl Pews guide and they don't say anything about different filaments
Some more advanced projects (like the upcoming AUG) require nylon, but PLA+/Pro is sufficient for like 95% of the projects out there. There's a section on Ctrl+Pew's guide for advanced materials FWIW. Also his opinions on PC (we now know is too brittle) and CF (there are useful applications) are kind of outdated.
Most of the 3d printed gvns you'll see are pla+, which is a more durable variant of pla. Nylon takes more knowledge to make properly but is a good option if you know what you're doing. I don't know much about petg
I have a spool of PLA+ but it's a wood/pla mix, I haven't tried printing with it yet. I'm looking at PLA+ online and a priline carbon fiber filament which online sources say is easy to print but pretty strong, I'm still working on my printer but my PLA prints seem like they can break pretty easy.
>wood/pla mix
Be warned that this and the carbon fiber and the glow-in-the-dark are incredibly abrasive. Your printer nozzle will need to be replaced after a roll of that, unless you buy one of the hardened steel or tungsten carbide or ruby insert nozzles.
2 years ago
Anonymous
Is the wood abrasive? I know you are definitely right about the other ones.
I use this with it, says "easy as PLA" to print?
I'm not an advertisement, they're showing connecting rods here. There's a market for 'sacrificial waxes', this machine prints those 'waxes' or not? Reliably? seems tgtbt
I got kicked out of here b4
Can this print metal? How do I get a custom metal piece out of it like a blinker surround?
I have to print a plastic slug then make a sand mold then polish?
>Every single one of them failed for one reason or another after about a month of printing.
hmm you have to assemble them... I think you is a moron homie
Stringing is incorrect settings for your filament, this is not plug and pray, you have to fine tune the extrusion. Jamming is incorrect storage of the filament or low quality filament.
>Case in point. Amazon resellers are nothing but scams and bootlegs these days.
Funny that you're only saying that to me, and not the multiple other people posting Amazon printers.
Sounds like bullshit to me.
Thanks for returning perfectly good machines, I'm sure their new owners will be happy with decent printers for cheap
Only thing I don't like about my V2 is that the aftermarket doesn't seem quite as large as the original Ender 3. Just something to keep in mind if OP plans on upgrading.
I've installed a cr tough, aluminum extruder, and new nozzel on my v2 just recently. I know there's lots of other upgrades but I haven't found one unavailable to the v2 quite yet.
I got a pro V2 for 200 even used with 5 spools of filament recently, I've got pla printing down, do I need to to look into nylon or petg to make gun shit? I'm looking at Ctrl Pews guide and they don't say anything about different filaments
Most of the 3d printed gvns you'll see are pla+, which is a more durable variant of pla. Nylon takes more knowledge to make properly but is a good option if you know what you're doing. I don't know much about petg
Voxelab Aquila is basically a E3V2 but cheaper. It's the budget brand of a reasonably reputable company (FlashForge). The QC issues are basically the same as Ender 3.
The only issue is if you get one with an H32 chipset. That makes installing custom firmware much harder unless if you get a new board, buy even then it's cheaper than an E3V2
P.S.dont buy the X2 (it's not bad, just not worth the extra money considering all you get is a vertical screen, a handle, and a runout sensor) or the new pro model (proprietary shit)
The C2 is alright. It's more on par with an Ender 3 base model. The S2 is fine I think.
Like the other anon said, a Prusa i3 is great for a hobbyist. At that budget, you can get a fully pimped on with the multifilament unit and still have a big chunk of change to spare.
If you want to max your budget and even do metal, you can get a Makerbot Method X.
>If you want to max your budget and even do metal, you can get a Makerbot Method X.
You don't print metal though. You print something and send it out to a lab to frick around with. Uploading to 3dhubs does the same exact thing at that point, what foolishness to market this as a metal printer.
if you look for a good 3d printer you might wanna go with a prusa mini - I got mine for some time now and I`m really happy with it - I dont print gun stuff just mechanical parts with a carbon-PC-blend and they work well
Wow they used to be under $200 on the regular.
In USD probably. This is leafbux
yeah
Watch out!
>$235 for a stock Ender 3
scam
Even if it is in CAD. You can get a V2 for that kind of money right now.
>Can this print metal?
No.
>How do I get a custom metal piece out of it like a blinker surround?
Investment casting.
>Can I print transparent light plastic with it?
Yes, if it's thin enough.
Bullshit, a $100 Ender 3 Pro is capable of the vast majority of gun-related projects out of the box.
Stop buying unmarked returns from sketchy resellers.
>Stop buying unmarked returns from sketchy resellers.
1 from ebay, 3 from different sellers on amazon.
Never had a printer make it through more than 2 spools of filament before having a major issue.
>3 from different sellers on amazon.
Case in point. Amazon resellers are nothing but scams and bootlegs these days.
>is too stupid to replace a $15 motor
moron
Some more advanced projects (like the upcoming AUG) require nylon, but PLA+/Pro is sufficient for like 95% of the projects out there. There's a section on Ctrl+Pew's guide for advanced materials FWIW. Also his opinions on PC (we now know is too brittle) and CF (there are useful applications) are kind of outdated.
>Case in point. Amazon resellers are nothing but scams and bootlegs these days.
Funny that you're only saying that to me, and not the multiple other people posting Amazon printers.
Sounds like bullshit to me.
I have a spool of PLA+ but it's a wood/pla mix, I haven't tried printing with it yet. I'm looking at PLA+ online and a priline carbon fiber filament which online sources say is easy to print but pretty strong, I'm still working on my printer but my PLA prints seem like they can break pretty easy.
>wood/pla mix
Be warned that this and the carbon fiber and the glow-in-the-dark are incredibly abrasive. Your printer nozzle will need to be replaced after a roll of that, unless you buy one of the hardened steel or tungsten carbide or ruby insert nozzles.
Is the wood abrasive? I know you are definitely right about the other ones.
I use this with it, says "easy as PLA" to print?
I'm not an advertisement, they're showing connecting rods here. There's a market for 'sacrificial waxes', this machine prints those 'waxes' or not? Reliably? seems tgtbt
I don't get it
What is this a reference to?
What is this?
Lurk moar.
you want to print anime girls?
I got kicked out of here b4
Can this print metal? How do I get a custom metal piece out of it like a blinker surround?
I have to print a plastic slug then make a sand mold then polish?
Can I print transparent light plastic with it?
No
No
I don't care what you do
No
You're a moron.
the Ender 3 is a bit outdated
get the Ender 3 Pro or V2
I frankly agree with
I was very happy with my V2 and it was easy to set up into direct drive, which will do practically everything you want.
3d printing guns is a whole ass hobby and a lot of work, but if you are willing to spend the time well worth it and very economical in the long run
you will need about 600 dollars more shit to actually make guns tho
Hey, Shoigu needs that.
I've had 4 different Ender 3D printers.
Every single one of them failed for one reason or another after about a month of printing.
>Every single one of them failed for one reason or another after about a month of printing.
hmm you have to assemble them... I think you is a moron homie
No, it's always been an extrusion related issue.
What extrusion issue do you have that has required you to buy an entirely new printer?
Varied. Half the time it was an excessive stringing issue, other half it was constantly jamming.
>>is too stupid to replace a $15 motor
It wasn't the motor, and I'm not paying to repair something that broke after 3 weeks.
Stringing is incorrect settings for your filament, this is not plug and pray, you have to fine tune the extrusion. Jamming is incorrect storage of the filament or low quality filament.
Thanks for returning perfectly good machines, I'm sure their new owners will be happy with decent printers for cheap
get the 3 v2 instead my knee grow (or at least the 3 pro)
Only thing I don't like about my V2 is that the aftermarket doesn't seem quite as large as the original Ender 3. Just something to keep in mind if OP plans on upgrading.
I agree with this. Get the pro if you think you won’t leave it stock.
I've installed a cr tough, aluminum extruder, and new nozzel on my v2 just recently. I know there's lots of other upgrades but I haven't found one unavailable to the v2 quite yet.
I got a pro V2 for 200 even used with 5 spools of filament recently, I've got pla printing down, do I need to to look into nylon or petg to make gun shit? I'm looking at Ctrl Pews guide and they don't say anything about different filaments
Most of the 3d printed gvns you'll see are pla+, which is a more durable variant of pla. Nylon takes more knowledge to make properly but is a good option if you know what you're doing. I don't know much about petg
just buy a 5-axle cnc milling station poorgay
I have one. Worth every penny.
Voxelab Aquila is basically a E3V2 but cheaper. It's the budget brand of a reasonably reputable company (FlashForge). The QC issues are basically the same as Ender 3.
The only issue is if you get one with an H32 chipset. That makes installing custom firmware much harder unless if you get a new board, buy even then it's cheaper than an E3V2
P.S.dont buy the X2 (it's not bad, just not worth the extra money considering all you get is a vertical screen, a handle, and a runout sensor) or the new pro model (proprietary shit)
The C2 is alright. It's more on par with an Ender 3 base model. The S2 is fine I think.
Even cheaper if u have prime. Might be worth a trial or purchasing one month.
So the ender is the best bang/buck, what's just flat out the best?
In terms of consumer grade, Prusa i3 or possibly the new Bambu Lab X1. If you want to get into industrial grade stuff the sky's the limit.
You'll still need to decide a budget. There are 3d printers covering the range from $150 to the high six figures.
Just consumer grade FDM, say topping out at 5k.
Noted.
Like the other anon said, a Prusa i3 is great for a hobbyist. At that budget, you can get a fully pimped on with the multifilament unit and still have a big chunk of change to spare.
If you want to max your budget and even do metal, you can get a Makerbot Method X.
>If you want to max your budget and even do metal, you can get a Makerbot Method X.
You don't print metal though. You print something and send it out to a lab to frick around with. Uploading to 3dhubs does the same exact thing at that point, what foolishness to market this as a metal printer.
oh really? Shit my bad for not looking into it. Pretty shameful
Is that the thing they put the anime girl in?
if you look for a good 3d printer you might wanna go with a prusa mini - I got mine for some time now and I`m really happy with it - I dont print gun stuff just mechanical parts with a carbon-PC-blend and they work well
Picked up an ender 3 pro for $100 in a microcenter promotion in 2021. Keep an eye out for similar sales.
No, this should be like 168 bucks or some shit due to prime day fool. Search better frick.
Heads up, Amazon has an ender 3 for $175 right now for prime day. If you're on the fence, might be a good time to get one.