Rise up
Liberals, Biden, New York and Cali hate us
wood stacked?
saws and splitter ready?
pipe clean?
kindling in the bank?
house airflow in order?
Spare parts on hand?
Electricity cucks seethe when the power goes out and it's -10f out
Wood stove chads
is it true that a wood burning stove will only produce smoke and soot if the wood hasn't been properly dried?
anybody fricked around with rocket stoves?
also, i think wood burning stoves are a good alternative to a fireplace that's almost as comfy but arguably more useful
Smoke in starting. When burning fully hot a woodstove does not produce much smoke. You might want to light the fire at top of wood and let it burn downward for slower burning?
>Smoke in starting.
assuming you mean the smoke comes from starting the fire, why do areas which rely heavily on wood for heating get covered in smog and soot?
>When burning fully hot a woodstove does not produce much smoke
i also heard this, reasoning being that the stove would burn the smoke as fuel at full heat. but after i stop feeding additional fuel to the fire, it burns for a few hours before going out completely, but at a lower heat/intensity. is this a problem for smoke/soot concerns?
as far as i know, rocket stoves will burn all smoke as fuel, so as long as the wood is dry enough that the water isn't a major efficiency concern, it should be good right? also i saw some cool upright rocket stove designs that look like regular wood burning stoves
doesn't enough tinder material come off in the process of chopping and handling the wood?
(You) #
>doesn't enough tinder material come off in the process of chopping and handling the wood
Yeah but pine lights up instantly, then use the hardwood bits. Find a giy with a saw mill. He will give you his scraps for free
The wetter the wood the less heat you obtain from it in the system shown, unless you use a rocket mass system.
White Supremacists who refuse to submit to islamic/ blackbrule are developing rocket stoves burning intensely at higher temps with a thermal mass heat recovery system. This can be like Roman hypocaust or Korean below the floor hypocaust.
>is it true that a wood burning stove will only produce smoke and soot if the wood hasn't been properly dried?
Not really, but it's by several orders of magnitude more of an issue with wet wood.
Plus you are wasting a lot of fuel in order to boil out all that water.
Wood has minerals in it that are not combustible. These come out as the ash. This is an actual technical term. Shit that isn't going to oxidize at wood burning Temps. Completely normal for all wood. When you see charcoal that's a sign that the fire wasn't burning hot enough. This stuff is usually generated towards the end of the burn when you stop adding wood.
Only common solid fuel that won't ash is anthracite
yes some other mentioned that smoke comes from heavy sooty byproducts from a cooler combustion and it is "inefficient" for heat production but great for producing dangerous soot and shit that will potentially eventually catch your chimney on fire. That said, YES wet wood will contribute to inefficient combustion, but so will other factors like air flow dynamics and volume inside the firebox. Choking a fire of air will also result in incomplete combustion. Incoherent turbulent air flow or poor material/exposed surface area will also impact combustion. That's why kindling works, surface area exposed to oxygen. Rocket stoves recognize the importance of airflow for efficient heat extraction and rip the fire and extract the heat over a much longer distance and store it in a thermal mass "battery" of stone or clay or whatever.. They are awesome but you still need to consider heat redistribution around the house. I think either HVAC or some kind of other air flow consideration needs to be made in a house. I've seen some houses where they have two stair cases on either side of the house and the hot air from one room rises up a staircase and pushes cool air back down the other staircase, which drives this circular convection around the house.. really neat. Old time houses often just put the stove in the basement and put grates on the floor so heat could rise up through the house.
Another interesting factoid.. Early Pennsylvania germans were very keen on wood stoves in their homes but they also pioneered and adopted the fresh air direct intake for the wood stove so they had a totally enclosed air combustion loop in the stove.. so it would not draw any air from inside the home. Ben Franklin actually mentioned in some of his journals about how their homes would be super humid and uncomfortable to him.
soot is unburnt combustibles
I'm running out of newspaper to start a fire. What are you using nowadays?
Subscribe to a bunch of catalogs. Although I noticed the fat summit racing and LMC truck ones are not coming in anymore, I guess they track if I'm buying shit or not.
Pine
Just shave it with a knife
Just get fat lighter, which is the resin soaked part of pine trees. Look for stumps or bottom branch connections. It lights up almost instantly and burns hot and quick.
Cedar planer chips.
A big box of natural firestarters I got from Amazon. So much better than newspaper and easier to source as I only know a couple of people who still buy a newspaper.
cardboard and junk mail and sometimes leaves
Pro tip, put your firewood in a cardboard box near the stove and you can rip parts of the box off to burn as needed.
>I'm running out of newspaper to start a fire.
it's over.
Paper shopping bags
pine cones
Dryer lint and spent motor oil.
Cozy pup
what are the best ways to distribute heat around a house from an old fashioned wood stove? Hvac incorporation? i haven't been able to find much good information about this online.. i've seen people just put a big hvac return right next to it, that would probably work.. but there are probably better ways with some technological ingenuity that would allow much more efficient heat extraction and enable things like water heating.. wondering if any companies manufacture and sell these sort of simple durable stove coupling systems. Or perhaps DIY? With a welder, an old wood stove, somme heat sinks, some hvac sheet metal and a brake... hmmm
I use ceiling fans
yea that's good for getting heat back down in a room with big vaulted ceilings, but doesn't do much for getting heat from one side of the house to another if you have a decent sized house and only one primary heat source.
Sounds like a design flaw
lmao having fans accounts for a design flaw. Having a system to effectively extract and distribute heat from one stove accounts for the design flaw of having one stove. Most stoves waste a crap ton of heat anyway. Don't get me wrong i would love to live in a medieval castle where every room and bathroom has it's own little fireplace, but lets be real..
If your stove is too small for your house thermodynamics is going to frick you no matter what contraption you come up with
Just put in heat pumps
I'm not saying a stove should be too small. Like i said most stoves produce more than enough heat and waste a ton.. designing systems to make them more efficiently extract and distribute heat is part of the fun. I just think it would be really nice to have the heat distributed without the use of electricity to move the air, in case of emergency or if you want to do it in an off-grid context. I've seen people do hot water-radiator systems off wood stoves/boilers, that's a cool way to do it off grid. I'm not really keen on an hvac system anyway because it comes with it's own set of issues with regard to maintenance and sanitation of ductwork and stuff.. but the big issue is you don't want to be living on the grid and have your heat distribution dependent on electricity.
If youre so worried about shit hitting the fan you probably shouldnt have bought a mcmansion
McMansion? ha.
we drew the plans for this thing ourselves. custom fricking designed for our needs, Anon.
no "cookie cutter" shit here.
we bought remote acreage, and built a off-grid capable house, to our exact specification.
how's your 600sqft apartment life treatin' ya?
Yet youre on here asking how to heat half of it
Sounds like you didnt design it very well
no... that's not me. my shit heats perfectly.
we have 3 wood stoves in separate areas of the house. our living room stove has cfm, adjustable speed jet fan built into the floor to circulate heat. ceiling fans in every room. we also have mini-split HVAC units for cooling, and heat pump operation, if needed. aaaaand then we have propane heat, if needed.
I am not the one asking about heat distribution. I'm a fricking 25 year multiple-trade builder and construction worker, whe must know something, if I've made enough money to build a custom home on remote acreage, in the worst economy in our lifetime....
but tell me about your house and life. I'm waiting with baited breath. gonna need photos and dates to back up claims.
So you just butted into a random coversation to talk about yourself and your house some more?
no. you addressed me, directly.
you fricking stepped in shit. not me.
I was talking to the guy with the half cold house and you butted in and are now mad that i assumed you were the same person
i don't have a half cold house you fricking mongoloid. I'm trying to discuss off-grid methods for distributing heat from a woodstove around a house. God damn this is not fricking hard you just have nothing other to add than "use fans durrr" now politely shut up if you have nothing to add. I'm putting a fricking name for this thread so this is easier.
I'm guessing you have already looked into the heat powered (TIG) fans?
I have not bought/used one myself. I probably eventually will, but don't currently need one due to all the other fans we already have installed.
they get reccomendations online, but I'm skeptical due to the low rotation speed. seems like they would have a hard time pushing air out more than 2 feet.
>heat powered (TIG) fans
yea no those are not effective.
that's what i'm doing right now you colossal moron. I'm not trying to fix a house i'm trying to learn about systems and plan for a future build. You need fricking therapy dude.
>gets mad about someone telling him to build his larp house properly
>call others mentally ill
Design your house better
Adding the heat powered piezo fans does help, an 0 n. I using one rn w my Mr Heater Buddy heater. Just wiener the foot under one of the upper grill bars, with the fan blade just out beyond the grill, with the fan to the right, or left. It may make the heater top-heavy, but there are mount points on the back for putting the heater on a wall or portable frame, and bulk hose adapters for LP tanks. I find the heater weighs enough by itself, that it's a non-issue.
~$20. 100% worth it.
*peltier, not piezo
are you okay dude? lmao what's wrong with talking about mechanical systems that work well in the event of a power outage? I'm glad your method works for you i'm not belittling you, i'm just looking to hear if anybody else does anything differently.
I just have HVAC cycle the fan every 15min or so. And a ceiling fan in the room with the stove.
i'd like to concoct some sort of off-grid or passively driven system for power outages. "Broaudio" on youtube has some interesting content about making masonry wood/cookstoves on these topics.
I've seen some stove fans that run on heat only, but they're tiny and use thermoelectric generators. maybe it's possible to get a stirling engine to power a bigger fan?
>stirling
you know i had seen those little stove top fans and never taken them very seriously but if you were to leverage the technology and integrate it properly you could probably have something effective.
I have ceiling fans going in the 3 bedrooms but I also use box fans at the end of the hallway on the floor to blow colder air towards the stove.
This exactly. My house is always hot as shit!
What kind of wood do you burn wabro?
>what are the best ways to distribute heat around a house from an old fashioned wood stove? Hvac incorporation?
Traditionally you would use a radiator system, heat up some water by wrapping water piping around the stove/stove-pipe, have the water flow up to radiators in the house and flow back down to stove due to natural convection/thermosiphon effect.
No moving parts needed - you may need a bit of thermal mass between the stoves heat and the water source to make sure you don't boil water right away so the thermosiphon effect gets started, but if you size it right this should be a bit of soapstone or the like.
Put a pressure blow out somewhere easy to clean in the line just in case of steaming things.
Pretty much the most efficient way
>No moving parts needed - you may need a bit of thermal mass between the stoves heat and the water source to make sure you don't boil water right away so the thermosiphon effect gets started
Commercial thermal stoves usually have a small open air reservoir mounted on top of the firebox, with passive circulation pipes going through the fire.
The reservoir also acts as heat exchanger with the radiator circuit pipes running inside it, with a pump connected to the house thermostat.
>with passive circulation pipes going through the fire.
Is this really optimal? A higher temperature blue fire followed by a flue gas heat exchange seems more efficient.
HVAC would be the best way. Setting a return on the stove and pushing that air throughout the rest of the house is going to be the easiest way to do it if you have central air. Setting up box fans or tower fans is going to be a hassle compared to an in-built system. There is one stovemaker that manufactures an HVAC add-on for their stove. Drolet, I believe. The building layout has a lot to do with how effective a wood stove will be. Lots of masonry, centrally located with a fireplace on each level, next to the air handler and a building that is not so spread out will be much easier to heat and may not even need fans to push air around. Like another anon said, if you're not pushing air, then the traditional answer is a steam furnace system.
I'm thinking about how to easily fabricate something out of simple components.. It would be largely masonry, probably have a long area for heat extraction, not just into the masonry but also into a steel extracting plate, probably near the firebox, which could be used to drive convection through a series of dedicated vents.. Not sure how much air it would move.. lots of variables.. Just prototyping and thinking about things.
Have you considered sending that heat through a radiant heat floor? I think that's kind of the idea behind rocket mass heaters and they are pretty effective. Conductive materials seem to be either expensive or water though.
yea that certainly could work. Not sure if putting it in the floor is a benefit in the long term.. I worry about embedding tubing in flooring. I wonder the cost for a woodstove coupled traditional radiator system for a 2000 sf house.. I don't know of any brands that sell that sort of stuff.
>That being said, I do remember one man said he built some kind of boiler system or adapted a boiler system to his house with his wood stove. It was on a forum thread I found while researching the subject a few months ago.
i'll have to keep googling till i find something.. I know that with enough stone, cmu's, fire brick, 1/4" plate steel, a welder and either some ducting or a radiator system, it could be accomplished for relatively cheap.. But if there are companies out there that make stoves and these coupled systems, then i won't turn them away. And in the event i decide to do this where regulations require more proven systems rather than some redneck engineering.
I realize I partially answered your question. There is not going to be much modern discussion on the subject you're interested in. Regulating authorities moving everything to electric and manufacturers moving away from traditional methods. Any dive into this subject will probably be your own research or pulling up discussion and documents from a century ago of in the commercial sector. Although a good engineer might be able to help you find the right resources. Sending an extra set of water pipes through your house is going to carry quite a bit more risk to it than some air ducts. That being said, I do remember one man said he built some kind of boiler system or adapted a boiler system to his house with his wood stove. It was on a forum thread I found while researching the subject a few months ago.
Transoms
Wife and I are looking forward to using our 3 new wood stoves this weekend. we have done small, low temp, "burn-ins" on two of them. this preps them by expanding and contracting metal and masonry, prior to regular, high heat use. my post may still be on the bottom of the catalog.
we are ready.
wife has 6 months worth of bones and carcasses saved, taking uo freezer space. we will be doing our first bone broth and stock simmer this weekend, on our wood oven in our kitchen.
bring on the Solstice.
that's awesome, i've never seen one integrated cleanly like that
thank you. it is was one of my three primary requirements and design contributions to our home. it was a massive ordeal to get it installed how I/we wanted. it is installed on an interior wall. this means we had to double that wall thickness to accomodate the chimney inside of it, along with reinforced fireproofing. to add to that hassle, our GC was a complete idiot. it would not have been NEAR as much of a pain in the ass, if he would have listened, and just done what I fricking told him to do, from day one. fricking fool.
we do have a GE propane oven/range in our island.
our home is built for multiple redundancies. backups for backups, on multiple, various critical systems. we were not fricking around with the ability to cook, or heat our home, regardless of whatever stupid shit unfolds. we like quality food, and we have no intention of freezing to death.
final note: the oven you see is a combination of masonry and iron. the entire firebox, ash pit, and heating area(s) are masoned firebrick. the front, cooktop and oven box are two seperate pieced that are masoned in, using anchor tabs between the bricks and morter.
>thank you. it is was one of my three primary requirements and design contributions to our home. it was a massive ordeal to get it installed how I/we wanted. it is installed on an interior wall. this means we had to double that wall thickness to accomodate the chimney inside of it, along with reinforced fireproofing. to add to that hassle, our GC was a complete idiot. it would not have been NEAR as much of a pain in the ass, if he would have listened, and just done what I fricking told him to do, from day one. fricking fool.
I could tell it was a challenge just by looking at how closely butted the stove is to the cabinets and the requirement for insulation on something like that.. Does the heat on the burners stay localized to the rings or does the whole cooktop get hot? What did the contractor do wrong?
the whole cooktop is a hot cooking surface. right side is a smooth griddle. far left ring burner has two rings that can be removed for increasing access to full fire. just right of the large ring burner is a slightly smaller ring burner, same concept.
GC had only ever built 3 homes prior to ours. I have worked in construction since 2008, so I know how shit works. I also know how to make common sense modifications when needed.
the other side of the wall, behind the oven, is our bedroom. specifically, our bed sits head against that wall. fricking moron wanted to run a 3'x3' square protrusion from floor to ceiling to accommodate the chimney. kept telling him: "just double the wall studs. make it a 7" thick wall, maybe even use 2x6 studs on the second thickness for a total of 9" void space. run the chimney inside it, between two studs" he kept trying to build some better mouse trap. tried to make some weird 60" wide "bump out" instead of just doing the whole wall. then after much discussion about using the 2x6 idea for the second layer, he decided 2x4 was the way to go. I told him "too much space is better that going so close, and ending up regretting it" he went with the 2x4s and then we barely had enough room to fit the chimney ey and the added fire insulation I had spoken to him AT LENGTH about. when it was too tight, he tried to convince the drywall guys to just put a 1/2" thick layer of mud to hide the hump. I stepped in, spoke directly to the drywall crew, and stood there while the GC idiot installed the chimney pieces EXCATLY as I told him to. suprise... I made all it fit perfectly.
don't even get me started on the (better) hidden chimney baffle I ordered and had installed instead of the 1800's tech baffle that was part of the kit.
yikes no good.. well it looks good now. Hope you're enjoying it. do you have another non-wood method of cooking in case you don't feel like starting a fire? I love what you have but it would be super cool to have one that was dual fuel and you could flip a gas burner to light the oven/range too.
we also have a standard sized, GE range convection oven in our island. it runs on propane.
the wood oven is only for cold season use. it alone, is capable of heating our entire house... whether we want it to or not.
very nice. I bet it's plenty warm!
did you ever think to as much as like but seriously to think you could ever be so great pal
You are living the dream my friend, I am jealous as frick.
Godspeed anon
Do you have a normal stove also?
Seems kind of annoying as a main stove in current year
What is the brand of the stove?
I'd like to try building this soon
what are some other novel stove designs, rocket or otherwise? how do you work out things like a second burn stage, overall height to get proper vacuum etc? reading material?
?si=o-dymeSI3ukbvdLu
how much wood do you go through in a year motherfricker
if everyone did like you say godbye to forests but durr i love and respect nature frick those city dwelling gays what do they know
have a nice day
I use deadfall only.
My house is very well insulated and holds heat for a long time.
You will never be a real woman.
Don't knock them until you try them. I've seen one of those little fans in action and ho le fook they fricking SPIN and move a considerable amount of air. Get one in amazon and give it a shot. You can return it if it doesn't work for your needs.
Damn, your house is fricking ugly… definitely screams millennial npc goyslop enjoyer. Yikes.
millennials own houses?
There are Millennial in their forties now, anon
>Yes, about 9 cords
>both saws are winterized
>pipe could use a quick brushing
>kindling is a no go FRICK
>airflow on point
>not enough spare parts but there’s a stove shop a short 10 minute drive to town.
Been chilly in western Washington so the stoves already been cranking.
The woodstove goy fears of the kerosene chads
damn and i thought i was pleb and poor
Not poor, just have zero motivation to do anything or improve the place much.
I got it sealed up and walls in and just lost all motivation because I want to just build a new house instead of fix up this garbage that came with the property
Maybe if you stop breathing kerosene inside sealed walls your motivation will return
It’s too fricking hot in my house!!!
Great now you have one rooms thats too hot and the rest of the house is freezing cold. Not to mention feeding it every hour and freezing in the morning. Meanwhile I have multiroom heat pump with backup generator keeping me warm or cool all year for no work. Have fun, firecuck.
My house is fairly open so it heats the whole house without issue.
True I have to feed it every 3 or 4 hours, but that can be mitigated by buying a larger stove
Why not have both?
I have a heat pump too but that shit wont keep you warm in the real dark winter
it's not that hard to circulate air or redistribute heat from a stove. There are passive air circulation solutions that will work without electricity or a generator and allow you to heat and entire house with one woodstove with a thermal mass, with 2 fires a day. You could use hot water and radiators.. You just have to think about the systems and design the house in an integrated way... Most modern builders don't think about this stuff. People thought about it more 200 years ago than today. Like modern homes will have a gas stove that pushes huge volumes of gas into the home, combusts it, sucks 500 cfm of conditioned air out of an exhaust fan, hvac running all the while.. In the 1800s in the forests of pennsylvania, germans knew to cut a hole in their wood stoves to provide a port for combustion air coming from outside the house, so as to minimize hot air drawn out of the house through the firebox. We've literally grown moronic.
Not having a ceiling fan and AC vent right next to your wood stove lmao. Just gotta flip the blower on every once in awhile.
Anyone here do their own chimney cleaning? I need to do mine and would gladly take tips. It's my first time and I've yet to invest in tools for it
Get a nylon brush thensize of your flue. Ram it down in there and have someone with a hepa at the bottom. Soot gets all over the place.
I have flue pipe I can disassemble so I do it all outside.
You'll need a vacuum specially designed for cleaning up soot. A normal vacuum will eventually combust. Honestly though, chimney cleaning is one of those jobs that's better left to the professionals unless your flue is set up to be easy to clean like
. It's such a messy job and chimneys are such a dangerous and weak point in the hone. Doing it wrong means your house burns down or you poison your family. While the sweeps come they do an inspection and it's good to have fresh eyes looking at your chimney.
Have a sweep on the end of a long chain. Slowly lower the chain to into the fire box from the roof. Place sweep in, pull it down from the box. Have box fan with 4in filter for the small amount of dust.
I use a 20 foot nylon brush I got off Amazon for stove pipe. Pull the baffle and secondary tubes and clean from the top down. Scoop the soot into a bucket and throw it in the chicken yard so they can bathe in it.
dunno about govt hate, getting 3k tax credit for putting it in.
some of the libshit states like NY occasionally bandy about the idea of banning wood stoves to meet their emissions goals. They target things none of their supporters use, like city dwellers and well heeled libs in gated communities either dont have lawns to mow or sub out their landscaping, so gas powered equipment sales are getting the axe. The fact that upstate NY is cold and so many depend on wood stoves for heating would ruin the dems image of supposedly giving a shit about people, so they never really push it. But who knows, the ideology might surpass reality and human hardship and we could have the utopia of the 1930's soviet union right in out own backyard one day.
nice kitties
I like the artillery collection next to the stove.
Burning wood is carcinogenic and awful for air quality: it should be banned.
Further, the volume of wood necessary to warm a decent sized house is just ridiculous. And hardly anyone knows how to ensure wood is sufficiently dry, or how to use a fireplace/wood burner properly.
The amount of morons who leave the door open on wood burners astounds me. "B-but it gets the room hotter faster!!"
Enjoy your CO and particulate matter, idiots.
you sound like a california tard
A series of half-truths. Yes, just burning wood makes a lot of smoke and yes, most people are morons so they don't use their stoves properly or maintain a supply of dry wood. That being said, the wood stoves people are buying today will burn for a really long time (Blaze King claims upwards of 30-40 hour burn times, or about 20 hours in practice) and produce hardly any smoke. It's called technological progress. We've created efficient wood stoves. My neighbor has a wood stove and I can't even smell it when it's burning. Wood is the cheapest BTU and it is the easiest to store. You can just leave it outside and cover it, it'll last ages and it will do no harm. Coal probably competes with wood on this. Electric is inefficient as can be and requires batteries to store it, which are dangerous, expensive and don't last long. Plus they are actually bad for the environment when they're past their use. Oil is efficient, but becoming expensive.
It's so ridiculous you types want to ban things like wood burning stoves and you do it in the name of environmentalism. It's either wood, coal, oil or electric. You types want to remove wood, coal and oil and put everything on the grid, but you don't want nuclear power and you want to do stupid shit like clear cut forests and create giant forever landfills for high-maintenance windmills. And then you want to import Black folk and ban gas cars so the strain on the grid is so high people are forced to experience rolling brown-outs and just general dystopia. The tech we have today for burning wood and burning coal is an actual science. You go to a modern coal plant and they are taking an extremely refined product, burning it at its optimum efficiency and producing hardly any emissions. The same is happening with wood stoves and wood pellet stoves. You types would rather see the world burn. The real answer is that we need several different sources of heat and energy so that technological progress continues across the board.
All that live laugh love core shite makes me glad I'm going to die alone tbh.
Anyone have any experience with SPI Sierra Wood Stoves? Specifically the S8000II. I'm eyeing this bad boy for our house, but not a lot of people talking about it. Am curious to know more.
Company's blueprints are legendary, but the company was tossed around a few times. They've got a great design, will match our house, big enough, made in america and not so full of marketing and consumerism.
https://sierraproductsinc.net/sierra-woodstoves/
been burning without having to reignite since mid september, don't need kindling. have more than 10 cords split and stacked.
catalyst stoves FTW
HVAC tech here, wood stoves are unmistakably based and I love them but please be careful using it if you have a gas (or even an oil) furnace, using your wood stove while your furnace is running can frick up the flue gass exhaust and suck all your exhaust gasses inside the house. Please stick to one or the other at a time to play it safe. If you have an electric furnace or baseboard radiators you should be good running both at once.
Side note, those little heat powered fans that old people put on top of wood stoves work remarkably well for keeping the heat moving around your home; expensive but worth it.
>suck all your exhaust gasses inside the house
Yea anything that burns creates a draft and pulls air into the home. You can use a wood stove with a fresh air intake port and pipe so you can close the door and it only draws air from outside the home, like i mentioned here
Same thing for your furnace.. People don't generally do this but when it comes to keeping the conditioned air inside the home, you have to consider overall airflow and all the things that impact it.
Sometimes it's good to keep fresh air circulating into the home. Older homes that aren't sealed up like modern homes will benefit from this. Newer homes are so sealed up that it might be a necessity. Another anon mentioned earlier that some homes with a direct air intake like from the outside can be humid and moist.
I'm buying a house and have 2(two) wood burning fireplaces, one like pic related and one built into a wall. I was considering converting at least the wall one to gas, but should I just stick with being a wood chad?
The gas would be a good conversion, definitely not a bad idea, but please be safe if you do. Wood furnace running while a gas furnace runs can pull exhaust gasses from the gas furnace back into the house and frick you up
noted, thanks friend
You should just put a gas furnace in instead of ruin your wood burning stove. It would probably cost the same.
Just got swapped a pleasant hearth for a Quadra Fire 4300. What an improvement. Thoughts on external air supplies for non pedestal mounted stoves?
Imagine having an EPA approved stove. Every time I take something apart I rip out the heatsinks and put them on top of the stove :P. That's what that stuff is on top.
Whats wrong with epa?
Mine is less than half the size of my old one and the air quality inside my home is vastly improved since it doesnt vent to the house at all
You can put a liner on any woodstove. With a liner and drafting correctly you should not be getting any noticeable smoke inside.
Mine doesn't have an expensive catalytic combustor to get plugged up.
Epa doesnt mean catalytic
We had a few rounds of wood gas generator threads.
I've always wanted to dabble in this.
I've got some docs and books from /t/ on my PC but it seems out of my skill range to manufacture.
This was high tech in 1940 so it should be within range for PrepHole today. And given the ever increasing electricity prices, I guess you could even turn this into a pretty comfy business,
It's 80 degrees in my house and 27 outside. It's too hot I had to open a window
>Enters your home
How to keep these frickers outside? I already bang every piece of wood against a rock before bringing it but they still get in. Have become wary of storing any firewood inside, grabbing one at a time as needed.
Some spiders enter via the sewer system.
If you are sure spiders and/or insects sneak in on fire wood, you can use vacuum.
Place the container in a tight plastic bag and use a plain vacuum cleaner to evacuate the contents. Give it a minute or so.
I have used this also to kill pests on plants, works perfectly and without chemicals.
Spiders burn too