which are better, beeswax or linseed oil? or are there other alternatives? we have used linseed a lot around this area so it's all im familiar with.
also does tarring do wood any good? any nice colours or lasting long?
WOOD FINISHES
which are better, beeswax or linseed oil? or are there other alternatives? we have used linseed a lot around this area so it's all im familiar with.
also does tarring do wood any good? any nice colours or lasting long?
Paint for outdoors shit, e.g. furnature. Paint provides the best protection to the wood, as it's a literal thick layer of a different substance entirely to wood.
Chemical stain for things you want to look pretty that DO NOT go in your mouth. Picture frames, tables, etc. If it doesn't go outside, and doesn't go in your mouth, you use a chemical stain.
Beeswax and linseed oils are for homemade cutlery and bowls. They provide the worst protection out of the three but won't kill you, making them great for things you'll rub against your food.
Remember to sand. Sanding is very important before finishing wood. It improves the consistency of the colour, and the overall quality of protection your finishing provides. Back in high school, I would first sand with 60 grit, then 120 grit, then 220 grit sandpaper. It leads to a glass-smooth and ample surface.
t. 18 year old high school graduate
Shellac is always a good option, especially if it's a piece you won't really be worried about water rings or anything like that.
>Natural, non-toxic material
>Carrier is denatured alcohol
>Self-bonding layers that don't need in-between sanding
>Easy, fast-drying application
And you can choose between spray cans, pre-mixed cans, or buying flakes and making your own concentrate level choices and having less worry about it going bad over time with more tone options.
Or just get Cedar or Teak and have naturally weather-resistant wood.
It's good stuff, yes, but it also costs twice as much as a quart can of Polyurethane for a third of the volume. You don't need it for every project.
>but it also costs twice as much
everyone asking for the spoon deserves to be scammed
let me guess, you *need* more?
protip, a bucket of rags soaked in linseed oil makes a cheap space heater
i remember being a kid and that happening during wood classes back when i lived in sweden lmao
Linseed oil is for waterproofing, beeswax is for polishing. In terms of alternatives, shellac is good if you want high gloss, and you can blend dry pigments into linseed oil with a drill mixer to make a nice paint. That really should be all you need. Varnish is a scam for the most part, nothing high-gloss will last outdoors. For a nice stain, you can dissolve steel wool in vinegar. It makes a dark brown on low-tannin woods and turns high-tannin woods (i.e. oak) black. If you want to turn high-tannin woods brown, put the parts to be stained in a trash bag along with a cup of household ammonia for a day. The fumes darken the wood.
That's pretty much all I use. All the high-tech modern stuff (urethane, lacquer, etc.) looks like garbage and costs a lot of money, avoid it.
it depends on the woods intended use, for my general furniture etc I prefer danish oil. It's its going to be high use and have food around it, I usually poly the table etc, to harden the surface. Danish oil is great because I can just touch my shit up once a year and it's good as new
it depends on the wood and the intended use I would think. interior or exterior? and does it need to be food safe?
there's a good guide on finishes for pine wood here that goes over some of the finishes and their benefits: http://www.johnsankey.ca/pine.html
Take the waterlox pill.
This thread looks closest related to my question so I’ll shoot:
Prior owners did a sloppy paint job and it bled on to the wood window and door frames (picrel) is remedying this as simple as sanding and staining to a similar hue?
4got pic
Looks like whatever finish was used for them is getting into pretty bad shape anyways.
Yeah well that's what bathroom humidity will do to a finish. The main issue is that if you want to finish an interior bathroom door like that you are going to need something like poly after the stain to avoid the same thing from happening.
Use razor blade to cut into the paint, and get all the trim off. Either sand and refinish or replace all trim, then sand, spackle and re paint the wall around where the trim is going. Reinstall trim.