Why do you still clean your guns like a moron instead of just getting an ultrasonic cleaner?
Why do you still clean your guns like a retard instead of just getting an ultrasonic cleaner?
Why do you still clean your guns like a moron instead of just getting an ultrasonic cleaner?
There isnt a sonic cleaner in the wild, so I train like I will fight.
So you train by beating the shit out of yourself and then handcuff yourself while the ATF shoots your dog?
>.t Guy who's neigbors complain about him shitting in their rose bushes as "immersion".
>giving away his horticultural gains
I defecate in my yard exclusively.
>these aren't field portable
Take issued M2 metal ammo can
Add water
Add detergent
Add jalapeno cheese spread
Add 1 or 2 issued vibrator
Add parts to be cleaned
Mix wet ingredients in ammo can
Lick cheese off fingers
Take vibrator and turn to "ON" position
Insert vibrator into ammo can (not anus!)
Wait 3-hours
Parts are clean
Optional: Drink water concoction
Keep it plugged into the tactical transport vehicle. Duhhhhh
Sonic cleaners are great, but some parts shouldn't be put in a sonic cleaner without detail stripping to separate certain components, also what the first guy said, these aren't field portable.
are these good for cleaning coins and israeliteery too?
Yes! You just have to be careful about the stones in the israeliteelry since the porous ones will fog up and others will crack.
Yes. But even a cheap one will blast the antireflective coating off your glasses.
Dude.... don't clean coins. Wtf?
Sonic won't take off a patina unless but will get any much off above the surface metal if you time it right. But yes, collectors are complete autists about "muh cleaned" if you ever plan on selling
>unless but will get any much
but will get any muck*
I need to start proofreading
>jewelry
Avoid stones they come loose
>jewery
C'mon bro. People have tried so many ways of wiping them out and always failed. Just let it go.
it's all so tiresome
even if it's near impossible to cleanse them completely, it's still necessary or the filth will get out of control.
they clean basically anything, we have a couple at the lab and I just chuck my glasses in and they're good as new
Gas works better on hook noses than solvents
>are these good for cleaning coins and israeliteery too?
They can damage delicate surfaces, especially some low frequency ones that create bigger bubbles and thus stronger implosion.
If you have coatings etc. on your item, be careful with it!
Otherwise, especially with rough surfaces, ultrasonic cleaning really blows away dirt from even the smallest cracks and crevices, it's super useful for items with complex structure that can be submerged without air pockets.
In worst case, your item will suffer damage from caviation erosion.
This can be anything from very slight marks or even discoloration to deep-ish holes in the surface. This is not something you want to see in polished surfaces.
Overall, cavitation is a funny thing, you see the same kind of damage happen to boat propellers.
I've heard higher frequencies are "softer" because the bubble size is smaller but anyway - don't underestimate the effects if you like your guns!
>higher frequencies are "softer"
Yep I always turned it up to 11 when I cleaned anything that wasn't completely metal.
> cavitation
> don't underestimate the effects if you like your guns!
I'll keep the RPMs of my bore brush below 50.
Sonic cleaners are amazing. Coincidentally I used them all the time at my first two completely unrelated part-time jobs
My grandpa stole ultra sonic cleaners from his job back when they were pretty pricey. This would’ve been in the 1960s. Still have em
How the frick did he get away with that lmao. I'm jelly though, they're still fairly pricey
I don't clean my guns at all.
Cause I'm a moron.
Because I don't really have guns that would require one. I will have to recommend these to my one SKS-owning friend, however, because the pin that holds the firing pin in place on his gun is a pain to hammer out
This may leave water in the firing pin channel.
So dry it out?
So you would punch the firing pin out anyway. You are firstly stripping all the grease an oil out of parts which are in white finish and leaving it to dry with water in a tight capillary made by the channel and firing pin. Wouldn't risk it with weapon that is notorious for firing pin sticking. Would recommend ultra sonic cleaner for separate parts only. I use one to clean brass.
>Would recommend ultra sonic cleaner for separate parts only.
Who says otherwise?
>Who says otherwise?
Place I used to shoot at had an ultrasonic cleaner available for members. At the time I thought "hey, cool idea".
> member appears
> with a Beretta 92
> field strips it
> removes grips
> throws components into the cleaner
> clean with force of 10,000 bubbles
> pulls pistol out,
> clean as frick
> oils it, reassembles
> next week
> ruck ton of run everywhere
> shit shit shit
I'd use an ultrasonic cleaner to clean a pistol barrel or AR muzzle device that hosts a suppressor or some other monolithic part but no way I'd put a firearm into an ultrasonic cleaner.
> oils it, reassembles
> next week
> ruck ton of run everywhere
he didn't oil it properly. he should have covered every last bit of surface area with some oil-based corrosion inhibitor. hosing it down with pic related woukd have orevented that 100%. degreasing steel is an invitation to rust.
>he didn't oil it properly.
Totally agree.
But with traditional cleaning this isn't a problem.
That's why I won't drop an entire finely machined assembly in a sonic cleaner (AR bolt, AR trigger group, bolt carrier, pistol frame, pistol slide). The juice (forgetting to oil one spot and ruining something) isn't worth the squeeze (easy cleaning).
Oil does not displace water. If he had sprayed it down thoroughly with ethyl alcohol to dry it off that would have worked, or just let it dry off while still stripped.
Also, someone should sell a pistol centrifuge to go with ultrasonic cleaners, put your stripped frame in the spinny boy and let it work for 5 minutes to get all the big droplets out.
Or just a shelf with a hair dryer pointed at it.
Not dangerous enough
A blowtorch?
Why not an induction heater?
Just shoot it off
I don’t clean my guns since I don’t own shit guns that require cleaning
My guns deserve the gentle touch of human hand. You don't just throw your wife in a massage chair and tell her to frick off; you touch her from head to toe and then frick her. Much like I rub down my guns and then frick them.
Post pic of you fricking guns.
>My guns deserve the gentle touch of human hand. You don't just throw your wife in a massage chair and tell her to frick off; you touch her from head to toe and then frick her. Much like I rub down my guns and then frick them.
PRIVATE DIKFUK WHY ARE YOU FRICKING YOUR RIFLE
BECAUSE PRIVATE BEEFCURTAINS WON’T LET ME FRICK HER!
THATS NO EXCUSE PRIVATE! DROP DOWN AND GIVE ME 240!
>t. 5.56mm dick in diameter
So, what you're saying is, in a few years when you get bored you're going to hire a Black person to clean your guns?
Nice
do people actually shoot enough that they need to clean their guns?
>not enjoying the catharsis of meticulously disassembling, cleaning, oiling, and inspecting every part of your guns
>I'll just throw 'em in the shaky water box!
/k/ only fricks voluptuous planes and things with fur
doesn't seem worth unless you clean customer guns or have another use for it, what part's gonna get so dirty you can't just wipe/scrub it down quickly that isn't the barrel which won't fit anyways?
>he's never cleaned a BCG with carbon build up
Shoot more.
>cleaning guns
>He doesn't know
Fun fact, you can use a sonic cleaner to artificialy age alcohol. And I believe there is one distillery in California that
it to push their product out faster.
That channel's fricking cool.
neat
This misses the fact that very long aged alcohols (say, cognacs older than X.O) slowly evaporate through the barrel wall (with water evaporating the fastest and alcohol slower due to the lower permeability of the wood to its larger molecule) while the much larger flavor molecules are mostly stuck inside. Over the years and decades the liquid in the barrel can go down to a fraction of the original, significantly concentrating the flavor. The low yield of this process is part of the reason for high costs, not just the many years of warehousing
Hello fellow alcoholic
Does this apply to Tabasco?
No, Tabasco is made through a fermentation process.
Cool
It will oxidize stuff faster but that’s about it. It lacks the “je ne sais quoi” of true aging. Otherwise wine makers would be using it.
That is a terrible idea and it will taste like shit and it is extremely trivial to understand why.
If you sonicate, you're just dissolving basically everything from the wood rapidly, instead slowly equilibriating the concentration in the wood and the (alcohol-soaked) wood. Not everything works. If you're at it, why not soxhlet some wood chips into ethanol, it'll give you comparable result. Ever had coffee made with a soxhlet extractor? I have and it's utterly vile.
Sometimes, you want slow reactions and slow equilibriation. Especially when it comes to taste and smell, since humans can detect absurdly low concentrations of smell-active compounds, which will heavily impact the taste.
That isn't real aging. You can "oak" a liquor in an ultrasonic bath, but aging requires heat and cold cycles along with controlled oxidation and at a certain point an unavoidable expenditure of time.
There is a distillery in Sweden making a whisky, (or it might have been aquavit) which is only a few months old but tastes like it is several years old. They bubble gasses through, and artificially heat and cool the liquor as well as soaking oak staves in it.
boat aging is about the only not gimmick and effective way of barrel aging alcohol faster
it's so fricking noisy I can't use it in my apartment
This is why I don't buy used guns
I laugh every time someone buys a used gun off me since I cum on all of them. I hope none of you recently purchased a secondhand Smith and Wesson 5946
._.
I hope you aren't in Arizona
If I slam the action shut, will you die?
It would be extremely painful
UUUU
too bad you need a foreskin license
i use mine for cleaning carburetors
a good ultrasonic cleaner is quite expensive and cheap ones are junk.
I have an industrial model, but I could get it as a business expense. I use it for cleaning brass. does an almost perfect job without being much work.
tip for cleaning handguns: just let it sit in a small tub (with a lid, obviously) of gasolene for a night, or two. no need to disassemble, just remove wood or plastic parts. the crud will just creep right out. decant to reclaim most of the gasolene. immediately apply a thin oil to the firearm for it will be degreased and prone to rust.
what do you put in it for cleaning brass
just some dishwashing soap in water. really you only need a surfactant to get the hydrophobic fouling into suspension. some work a bit better than others, just experiment. if you want brass shiny, add some citric acid after the fouling is removed. that will dissolve copper oxides within seconds. I still very occasionally use a dry tumbler for polishing, if I want the brass to look like new. everything beyond dishwashing soap purely cosmetic though, if the brass is in regular use. polishing might add to long-term corrosion resistance.
i have mine filled up with this chem dip stuff because i mostly use it for carburetors but i reload a lot too so i'm trying to find something that would be good for both. i was thinking of trying pine sol
This is just the barrel. Ya m9, I'll just stick that in an ultrasonic bath
Because it's relaxing
Are the chingchong aliexpress ones any good?
What next, you are going to do an uhv clean with acetone and ipa too?
And RCA clean after?
Literally what.
just finnish things.
I literally drop my Glock into an ultrasonic cleaner with some simple green. Let is sit there for 5 minutes, then rinse it off. Take it apart, blow out all the water, and then let it sit in the hot sun to dry off, or put it in the oven at 180f. After that I take most of it apart to lube up, and remove any remaining dirt, or water.
So easy to clean this way.
I'm 12 and what is this?
I'm fricking dying? BTW holy shit.
So is gargling reindeer balls to soothe them while they're hog tied standard practice in Sumoi land?
Anon... mr reindeer is not okay. That was a castration.
Brainlet take by OP.
Optimal cleaning of anything valuable and treasured is balanced between maximum effectiveness and minimal wear and tear. If scrub like a downie discovering masturbation with a brass brush to clean your barrel every 5 rounds you're gonna erode your rifling. If you disassemble, clean, polish and re-oil your handgun every week you're gonna erode the fittings (if it's a good gun. If it's a piece of trash to begin with you wont notice it i guess). If you screw and unscrew everything constantly you're gonna wear the threading and experience loosening or stuck screws and worn screw heads.
Ultrasonics are harsh as frick on some materials. We use it in the lab but we pretty much accept that our porous glassware will degrade and that metal tools will pit and erode. Why use a complicated expensive tool that isn't optimal when just using a well worn frayed cotton rag is both better, cheaper and faster?
Frick me you'd probably toss your kids in the ultrasonic cleaner rather than giving them a shower (Also, typing this out piqued my curiosity. Has anyone here ever thrown an animal in the ultrasonic cleaner on max settings and checked on it after 8 hours? If not i gotta try that out next time the pharmacology dept has spare lab rat carcasses.)
>If you screw and unscrew everything constantly you're gonna wear the threading and experience loosening or stuck screws and worn screw heads
Imaging being this moronic
Im talking moron levels of screwing and unscrewing. I've seen it happen when either the screw thread or hole thread was untreated steel or soft decorative metals. Brass screws in steel anchoring or in one extremely mongoloid case, a 24k gold screw (cuz that shit is what a real pimp rocks, not that gay 22k wear resistant poorgay alloy bullshit) in a titanium frame.
Youre right that a good screw from good steel threaded with good fittings in an anchor of the same hardness and material qualities in terms of heat expansion can be screwn, unscrewn and screwn like the 5'th amendment practically thousands of time with no damage or erosion.
>Brass screws in steel anchoring or in one extremely mongoloid case, a 24k gold screw (cuz that shit is what a real pimp rocks, not that gay 22k wear resistant poorgay alloy bullshit) in a titanium frame.
So situations that don’t apply to 99% of guns. Very valuable insight on the extreme outliers. Very relevant
>porous
>glass
>british spelling
checks out, it[s a moron LARPer
Im not a brit you gay im a Dane and im absolutely larping as a giant wienerloving homosexual but im still right because im not larping about the fact that i use the actual method of cleaning this thread concerns in my day to day job you bubba dipshit. When did you last ultrasonically clean anything? Do you even know how it works? Why even suggest this moronic cleaning method when something like watchmakers use cleaning tumblers specifically designed for gentle abrasion/wear minimal cleaning of geometrically complex components exist. Just use the blueprints for that, upscale it to the size needed and assess if the same solvents/rinses are suited for gun parts or if the different metals necessitate adjustments.
(You're right about the moron part though, you got me there. Thats neither larp nor accidental.)
>If scrub like a downie discovering masturbation with a brass brush to clean your barrel every 5 rounds you're gonna erode your rifling.
You will literally never erode barrel steel with a brass brush you fricking moron. Barrels erode from heat and friction caused by a projectile being squeezed through a barrel or from corrosion. And guess what accelerates both of those processes? Letting carbon fouling, primer residue, and copper/lead build up in the grooves and chamber of your barrel. Not to mention that they provide a place for moisture to collect and further accelerate the corrosion process.
Yes the brass is softer, but that doesn't mean it's unable to abrade the rifling, whatever microscopic steel particles are stuck in the propellant residue will act as an abrasive powder. Yes. Corrosion and heat are the biggest factor and especially the heat due to the fact that overheating your barrel -ruins the goddamn tempering by annealation- which is why unless you plan to reharden and temper your barrel you can wear down the rifling by excessive bore scrubbing with a stiff metal brush. Propellant residue can be taken care of with a bit of solvent and a semi-stiff hair bore scrubber. You should always clean the residue after use, just not brass brush it. It's needlessly excessive.
>Corrosion and heat are the biggest factor and especially the heat due to the fact that overheating your barrel -ruins the goddamn tempering by annealation- which is why unless you plan to reharden and temper your barrel you can wear down the rifling by excessive bore scrubbing with a stiff metal brush
Was this supposed to make any sense whatsoever?
Bullet make hot boom. Hot boom make big piece of metal bore soft. Hot boom also make little copper piece break off small pieces of big bore. Small pieces heat faster more than big bore metal piece because less size need less hot boom. Low hot makes hard metal soft metal, big hot makes hard metal very hard. Small bore pieces consequently very hard while big bore piece less hard. When mongoloid bubbafrick use heavy duty brass colon brush little hard pieces rub against big soft bore piece and frickrape the rifling more than necessary when all fat frick bubba needs to do is use a soft brush and mild organic solvent followed by a gentle scrub with a diluted mercury/peroxide lead solvent.
Even if there was enough heat in the rifling to "ruin the goddamn tempering by annealation", it's pretty silly to say maybe a dozen or less passes with a bronze brush is going to damage your barrel in any way compared to the fricking dozens or hundreds or thousands of copper jacketed bullets that you shoved through the barrel at high speed while it was actually still hot.
Just gonna say it like it is here. What I wrote is what I've been taught and what I've done. I 100% unironically believe what I wrote and still do. But several Anon's have now called me a moron which have honestly down doubt in my mind. I guess what I'm saying is that I'm going to look into some literature and educate myself. I believe doubling down in stubborn indignation.
You gays have more than a few valid points and I'm ready to educate myself better and if it turns out I was an uninformed moron and flat out wrong I'm prepared to just own up and admit that.
Do you guys have any good texts or sources that will help me learn what I'm wrong about? Genuine request here. If I'm wrong and moronic I want to learn so as to not be wrong and moronic.
Self correction:
>I believe doubling down in stubborn indignation is a sign of weakness and insecurity. Improvement is impossible without the ability to recognize your mistakes and shortcomings.
According to Azom, the hardness of aluminum bronze is 94 Rockwell B, or 195 Brinell.
Most gun barrels that aren't stainless are 4140 or 4150.
Pic related is a chart that shows:
A) a chart of hardness values for 4140 at various tempering temperatures
B) a conversion chart between different hardness scales, with ranges for aluminum bronze and 4140 highlighted
If you get your barrel to 1200°F, it'll be roughly 29 HRC, which is well above the hardness of the bronze.
Anon, can you point me to a source for that chart without your edit? That's the kind of thing a guy might find useful, and unlike the guy you were replying to I don't need the red boxes.
I just searched for "rockwell chart" and "4140 tempering hardness".
Except you're a moron, machineguns wear out because of how many rounds are put through them, in total, because they shoot so much, you can't even get a barrel to temps that'll ruin the temper without the whole thing warping anyway, and no, you're not magically creating fragments of tempered steel in the bore by shooting. Copper isn't gonna temper hard enough to hurt your barrel, even in your fantasy scenario where it flakes everywhere like a day old croissant. And finally, the word is "annealing"
I've personally seen a machine gun barrel glowing three seperate times. Once in Iraq, twice in Grafenwoehr. All three barrels remained straight.
That said, I assure you if you have a piece of steel hot enough to glow, at all, you are altering it's chemistry. Alloys are not quite like liquid solutions you would be familiar with. The crystalline structures change under heat stress and alloying elements can and do migrate through the matrix while the steel is hot. You can actually cook all of the carbon out of a small piece of steel if you leave it for too long above it's critical temperature. I have very little doubt that the heat cycles machine gun barrels experience tremendously shorten their life expectancy.
You’re a fricking moron larping as a big brain. Your barrel will wear out from shooting long before a fricking brush, metal or not, will ruin it.
>If you disassemble, clean, polish and re-oil your handgun every week you're gonna erode the fittings (if it's a good gun. If it's a piece of trash to begin with you wont notice it i guess).
What fricking gun do you own that taking it apart too many times means it can’t go back together? You realize the bolt or slide moving does way more than taking either off the gun.
>If you screw and unscrew everything constantly you're gonna wear the threading and experience loosening or stuck screws
If it’s a wood screw yes. If it’s a metal screw no it won’t unless you cross thread of overtorque. Overtorquing enough to destroy threads is very tough to do by hand. You aren’t getting a breaker bar in a gun screw
>worn screw heads
True. But it’s only a real concern if it’s a phillips
There are no technical details. What you see is all there is to it. Primitive people just don't care and they're like that all over the world. They rip out the balls and leave the animal to heal by itself. Fricking savages, man.
As far as i know castration is normally fatal or am i wrong here? I know a cut by a sharp knife will bleed a lot more freely and for longer than a ragged cut that bruised the surrounding tissue and caused swelling and crimping of blood vessels. Could that be the method to this madness? That a severing that's more tissue traumatic (ie chomping the nuts) reduces bleeding compared to a sharp cut (slicing the ballsack off) that doesnt result in vein crimping and compressive tissue swelling?
Im just guessing here. At the end of the day it's primitive rural nomads practicing amputation by oral bestiality so yeah who knows.
>causually strips the finish off every piece of your gun
only for morons that put aluminum in the ultrasonic
Would these be good to use on suppressor internals? Dump the k baffles into it and wash the sleeve by hand? I want to shoot corrosive ammo through my suppressor so I would need to clean it immediately after use.
basically anything that will deposit on the surface will just come off
Even the corrosive shit? I don't really know anything about corrosive ammo, I've never shot it. I'll be getting a suppressor soon and want to play around with an M1895 Nagant but the 2k spam cans I have are all corrosive surplus ammo. The only thing I really know about corrosive ammo is setting people house their AKs down with a hose before cleaning.
What ultrasonic basically does is remove things that deposit. If it changes the chemistry of whatever you're looking at on the surface, it'll do nothing. But if it's just gunk, it'll clean it up real nice.
The corrosive salts are water soluble. In fact, hot water and windex is the absolutely best thing to use to remove corrosive salts from a gun. The ultrasonic bath actually is a good choice for cleaning a suppressor after shooting corrosive ammunition.
Anyone have the Harbor Freight model?
The heater will fail and burn through the steel tub.
Mine burned itself out after a couple hundred hours use. I replaced it with a Vevor. Jury's still out on how long it will last.
You can get a stainless steel one from Ebay that's 3 times the capacity for the same price
This might be the most /k/ appropriate video ever. How and why do you have it?
>This might be the most /k/ appropriate video ever.
Struck me more as /b/ and PrepHole go camping, shenanigans ensue
>literal sex with an ungulate
>not /k/ related
I mean I don’t disagree entirely with you but deerfricking goes back a ways
/k/ has been fornicating with deer since ancient times
Wow your Balls are Really smol anon
thx
Confidence is Key Champ i know girls that genuinely Think eunuchs are cute
Only 4 u sweetie
UwU yew mwaking mee blushhh
Half of the pleasure of owning guns is having an excuse to frick off and focus on maintaining the value of some of my most valuable possessions. I use a bit of light solvent or penetrating oil to start, but then lots of old brushes and paper towel with light oils and greases.
If you're at the point of an ultrasonic cleaner why not just throw your shit in a dedicated dishwasher. Or spray your guns down with a pressure washer. It'd probably be cheaper and has a cycle that won't turbofrick anything half delicate.
based but also you're a furgay
Nah I'd rather let the rifle crush them than put them in anyone's mouth. I have no idea where you put those lips and if webm related is any clue I don't want to find out how many venereal diseases you can get from chewing Rudolph's shiny noses
Shortcuts are for plebs.
Shut up snake oil salesman. That does the exact same thing as putting them in a bag with solvents, letting it soak, then shaking it. Imagine wasting your money thinking some magical shit is going to happen with your magic fairy cleaning machine.
get at me when I can get an ultrasonic cleaner that can fit 48"+ guns, doesn't smell like absolute shit, and isn't multiple thousands of dollars.