I have successfully "sharpened" a few blades with a triangle file. Also I tried tempering cheap blades and it seems like they last longer. I just hold them with vise grips, torch the end for a few seconds and barely dip the sharpy bit in cutting oil.
I bought one once to cut a outdoor receptacle outlet hole through some siding and osb. Killed the blade and battery permanently, finished it with a drywall saw.
I’ve collected like 3 of these things now, never used any of them except that one time.
Add them to the list of useless fad shit you don’t need.
i cut holes in floors enough to buy one just to finish up after a circular saw, mostly corners but also much easier to feel if the doc was just too shallow on the edges.
i absolutely would not get it out for use on anything i could get at with a suitable saw.
its loud af, overheats, eats battery by nature of jobs you use it on. its a necessary evil.
i cut holes in floors enough to buy one just to finish up after a circular saw, mostly corners but also much easier to feel if the doc was just too shallow on the edges.
i absolutely would not get it out for use on anything i could get at with a suitable saw.
its loud af, overheats, eats battery by nature of jobs you use it on. its a necessary evil.
>kills batteries
Seems like operator error. I've had a corded one that I've seldom used for many years, until I started using it once in a while for work, that I've never burned out, then I splurged for a 20V MAX DeWalt. I intuitively thought it should need the larger 4Ah batteries, but after using it with a 2Ah and cutting a large opening in a ceiling, along with strips of wood with embedded nails, the battery was still showing full (3 bars). Yours might have a short between the handle and the ground.
It was a ridgid 12 volt jobbie. They stopped making it, and the battery system so no replacements.
No matter, I just went back to drilling 2 holes and using my old corded jigsaw for new outlets. Waaaay faster, and the jigsaw is still running after 40 years. The jigsaw blade lasts a lot longer than those idiotic comb blades. I see the trim carpenters using them and making more smoke than sawdust! Must be getting pretty hot.
Note I drill the holes, I don’t have any more of those faddish impact wrenches that still work either.
I wanted that little Ridgid jobmax before they stopped making it. I think the 12V base was underpowered though, I was really hoping they would do a brushless Gen2 12V power base as they released the Octane 18V version.
Maybe you ran the blade dull and overheated the b***h. Shoulda registered for your LSA and make them replace it. Also no excuse for not getting more batteries if the old ones are dead, Home Depot still sells them (except I have seen the 12V 2.0Ah batteries on clearance lately so maybe it’s online now) and there are knockoffs on Amazon.
Yes, it was a jobmax.
I have a few of them, and the corded body.
The one attachment I don’t have is the fricking drill, of all things. It was $65 and I’m like frick that.
Luckily the battery packs are simple to fix with some bare 18650s, usually one cell goes.
Also easy to make 12 V adapter, but I have the corded for backup, so no need. I ran down to get the corded body one night in a rage because I was in a hurry and it was quicker than charging the batteries. I live 5 minutes away from HD so they have a lot of my money.
AEG was another brand of these things.
Other than the batteries, they’re holding up just fine.
They had a pneumatic power base for the thing as well. And Ryobi sold the same shit under a different name, so you could get the Ryobi branded version of some tool heads for less I think and they were the same fit.
>Killed the blade and battery permanently
For tools that I use infrequently, I avoid batteries.
Always dead (won't take a charge) after it's been sitting in a drawer for a year. Buy corded unless you are doing a lot of work and can keep multiple packs charged on the job.
Like any tool great if used as intended
Under cutting door casings to install flooring
Quick, clean holes in drywall for various reasons
Cutting caulking from tubs, around windows etc…
Cutting dried expanding foam from gaps with ease
Cutting lathe plaster nice and straight without it breaking into chunks.
I was trying to get a rusted frozen nut off my snowblower for months until I finally came across metal cutting blades for these and got it off in like 2 seconds. Wish I'd thought of it sooner.
It's really hard to explain WHY this tool is so useful, you just have to be mid job and realize that you need a very small and precisely flush cut and have it suddenly click.
They're great for getting into tight spaces where using a normal sawzall would be awkward and cumbersome. And the best part is, there's various inserts depending on what job you're doing/what you're cutting. >pic is my Hilti
WE ARE SORRY ANON
I bought my first one in 2010 anon. Didnt you ever see the FEIN infomercials?
>ryobi
Her favorite maker on youtube uses Ryobi, so she had to buy it too!
They're neat but the blades are too expensive so I just use my angle grinder.
What the frick are you trying to cut with it, that an angle grinder will suffice?
Use cheap ebay $1 blades for all situations but rare times you need a decent cut. They work about half as good.
I have successfully "sharpened" a few blades with a triangle file. Also I tried tempering cheap blades and it seems like they last longer. I just hold them with vise grips, torch the end for a few seconds and barely dip the sharpy bit in cutting oil.
That’s hardening not tempering
Be careful anon. There's an autist running around who doesn't take kindly to your type.
I bought one once to cut a outdoor receptacle outlet hole through some siding and osb. Killed the blade and battery permanently, finished it with a drywall saw.
I’ve collected like 3 of these things now, never used any of them except that one time.
Add them to the list of useless fad shit you don’t need.
i cut holes in floors enough to buy one just to finish up after a circular saw, mostly corners but also much easier to feel if the doc was just too shallow on the edges.
i absolutely would not get it out for use on anything i could get at with a suitable saw.
its loud af, overheats, eats battery by nature of jobs you use it on. its a necessary evil.
>I'm too stupid to use it correctly, so it's useless and no one should like them!!
frick off boomer
>I’ve collected like 3 of these things now
Sounds like you keep buying cheap chink shit.
No, they came with sets, or given to me by people that don’t want them (whom also got them as package deals). Seems that nobody uses them.
I agree with the angle grinder guy. That’s one toolyou should probably have.
>kills batteries
Seems like operator error. I've had a corded one that I've seldom used for many years, until I started using it once in a while for work, that I've never burned out, then I splurged for a 20V MAX DeWalt. I intuitively thought it should need the larger 4Ah batteries, but after using it with a 2Ah and cutting a large opening in a ceiling, along with strips of wood with embedded nails, the battery was still showing full (3 bars). Yours might have a short between the handle and the ground.
How is a cordless tool grounded?
They have a ground capacitor that discharges when the battery is on the charger.
It was a ridgid 12 volt jobbie. They stopped making it, and the battery system so no replacements.
No matter, I just went back to drilling 2 holes and using my old corded jigsaw for new outlets. Waaaay faster, and the jigsaw is still running after 40 years. The jigsaw blade lasts a lot longer than those idiotic comb blades. I see the trim carpenters using them and making more smoke than sawdust! Must be getting pretty hot.
Note I drill the holes, I don’t have any more of those faddish impact wrenches that still work either.
I wanted that little Ridgid jobmax before they stopped making it. I think the 12V base was underpowered though, I was really hoping they would do a brushless Gen2 12V power base as they released the Octane 18V version.
Maybe you ran the blade dull and overheated the b***h. Shoulda registered for your LSA and make them replace it. Also no excuse for not getting more batteries if the old ones are dead, Home Depot still sells them (except I have seen the 12V 2.0Ah batteries on clearance lately so maybe it’s online now) and there are knockoffs on Amazon.
Yes, it was a jobmax.
I have a few of them, and the corded body.
The one attachment I don’t have is the fricking drill, of all things. It was $65 and I’m like frick that.
Luckily the battery packs are simple to fix with some bare 18650s, usually one cell goes.
Also easy to make 12 V adapter, but I have the corded for backup, so no need. I ran down to get the corded body one night in a rage because I was in a hurry and it was quicker than charging the batteries. I live 5 minutes away from HD so they have a lot of my money.
AEG was another brand of these things.
Other than the batteries, they’re holding up just fine.
They had a pneumatic power base for the thing as well. And Ryobi sold the same shit under a different name, so you could get the Ryobi branded version of some tool heads for less I think and they were the same fit.
>Killed the blade and battery permanently
For tools that I use infrequently, I avoid batteries.
Always dead (won't take a charge) after it's been sitting in a drawer for a year. Buy corded unless you are doing a lot of work and can keep multiple packs charged on the job.
Like any tool great if used as intended
Under cutting door casings to install flooring
Quick, clean holes in drywall for various reasons
Cutting caulking from tubs, around windows etc…
Cutting dried expanding foam from gaps with ease
Cutting lathe plaster nice and straight without it breaking into chunks.
Cutting MY LIFE INTO PIECES
I use mine as a detail sander, and for plunge cuts and small finicky cuts in wood.
It slices right through wood with ease. It comes in extremely handy
Would any of you buy a refurbished Ryobi/Rigid tool?
Also how the frick do I make my corded oscillating tool less fricking LOUD
>how the frick do I make my corded oscillating tool less fricking LOUD
By buying an expensive one that has vibration dampening for the body.
>Would any of you buy a refurbished Ryobi/Rigid tool?
Why would I buy a previously broken tool made by budget standards?
HF sells about three brands that range $5-$15. Just get a new one.
I was trying to get a rusted frozen nut off my snowblower for months until I finally came across metal cutting blades for these and got it off in like 2 seconds. Wish I'd thought of it sooner.
milwaukee chads sound off
Red leader - standing by
It's really hard to explain WHY this tool is so useful, you just have to be mid job and realize that you need a very small and precisely flush cut and have it suddenly click.
They're great for getting into tight spaces where using a normal sawzall would be awkward and cumbersome. And the best part is, there's various inserts depending on what job you're doing/what you're cutting.
>pic is my Hilti