>aluminium does oxidise
Aluminum actually oxidizes pretty immediately in air, but it’s not flakey like steel oxidization so it forms a protective layer like paint. It’s the nitrogen in the air that it reacts with instead of oxygen.
2 years ago
Anonymous
>It’s the nitrogen in the air
My bad it’s the oxygen, although it can react with nitrogen at higher temperatures. Think they do this to harden aluminum.
Metals under stress will oxidize more readily. Haven’t you ever done the bent nail experiment in elementary school?
2 years ago
Anonymous
Except that was aluminum. It looks gnarly but it's not rust.
2 years ago
Anonymous
Rust is oxidization, aluminum can oxidize. Rust and oxidization are pretty much used interchangeably. You’re really arguing semantics. I never called it rust, that’s another anon.
Most appliances are cheap 304 stainless and that shit definitely gets rust marks if exposed to a catalyst chemical. Aluminum absolutely can corrode, think bleach and other cleaning chemicals do a number on aluminium.
hydrogen peroxide works ok, but will do far better if you buy ~30%(i think the easiest to get is for bleaching hair) and also blast it with UV light while soaking.
>de-yellow this for re-sale
I'm not sure you will get enough on the secondary market to justify the process.
There's a lot of lab shit from failed biotechs put there.
Retrobright is unnecessary, strong direct sunlight is all that's needed. I confirmed it myself with legos.
Try some Novus polish for acyrlic on the lid. The scuffs on the corners might not come out.
If you're reselling to lab people they aren't going to care about the color, only if it's working or not. Don't try to bleach it with chemicals or UV, it will just chew up the stabilizers in the plastic and start degrading the base polymer.
Ozone
bag and ozone generator?
The metal parts will rust to hell.
>stainless steel and aluminum parts
>rust
pick one.
most lab equipment is made of either of these metals for obvious reasons.
>what is electrical components
stainless can still get rust patches, and aluminium does oxidise
>aluminium does oxidise
Aluminum actually oxidizes pretty immediately in air, but it’s not flakey like steel oxidization so it forms a protective layer like paint. It’s the nitrogen in the air that it reacts with instead of oxygen.
>It’s the nitrogen in the air
My bad it’s the oxygen, although it can react with nitrogen at higher temperatures. Think they do this to harden aluminum.
aluminum might not literally rust but it does figuratively rust.
That's metal fatigue, different.
Metals under stress will oxidize more readily. Haven’t you ever done the bent nail experiment in elementary school?
Except that was aluminum. It looks gnarly but it's not rust.
Rust is oxidization, aluminum can oxidize. Rust and oxidization are pretty much used interchangeably. You’re really arguing semantics. I never called it rust, that’s another anon.
ALUMINIUM quite literally can and will rust.
rust is LITERALLY iron oxide, aluminum oxide isn't iron oxide.
No it is not
Maybe you should look up stuff before you mouth off
>iRon
>Rust
From this day forward everybody should call aluminium oxide lust to keep it simple and avoid confusion
bruh we can keep pronouncing it A-Loo-Min-Um and be fine but you're making us look bad
Al-u-min-ium
why wouldn't i pronounce it aluminum? that's what Sir Humphy Davy named it, after all.
Most appliances are cheap 304 stainless and that shit definitely gets rust marks if exposed to a catalyst chemical. Aluminum absolutely can corrode, think bleach and other cleaning chemicals do a number on aluminium.
Turn 360 and walk away to solid fraction
hydrogen peroxide works ok, but will do far better if you buy ~30%(i think the easiest to get is for bleaching hair) and also blast it with UV light while soaking.
I'm trying to find a manual for it. I think I should disassemble it to not damage the electronics
>de-yellow this for re-sale
I'm not sure you will get enough on the secondary market to justify the process.
There's a lot of lab shit from failed biotechs put there.
>I'm not sure you will get enough on the secondary market to justify the process.
The last sale prices were $2k and $4k on ebay. All listings I see of working units are $2k+
right
but what difference would the yellowing I can't even see make to your asking price?
make it look better. I'm contemplating whether it's worth the effort as well. I'm trying to do everything I can to increase the value.
Corrode the yellow away with a bunch of acid. Etching the appliance away is worth it, but removing the discoloration away is nonnegotiable.
Just paint it yellow.
>hydrogen peroxide or Retr0bright
those are the same thing
as expected this thread has been completely useless
>The experiment was a success.
Nobel prize, here we come. Just wait until the snobs at Nature here about this
Retrobright is unnecessary, strong direct sunlight is all that's needed. I confirmed it myself with legos.
Try some Novus polish for acyrlic on the lid. The scuffs on the corners might not come out.
>Just stick it in the sun!
>You know, that thing in the sky that yellows plastic!
Yeah, brilliant.
You're not up to date on retrobrite are you?
All threads descend into chaos eventually.
>want to make a manual washing machine by connecting it to a stair climber
>this thread is on the first page
spooky
Disassemble it and throw some flints in the tub to save on liquid
If you're reselling to lab people they aren't going to care about the color, only if it's working or not. Don't try to bleach it with chemicals or UV, it will just chew up the stabilizers in the plastic and start degrading the base polymer.
don't worry boys, I cleaned it. Let's hit the bar drinks on me
Nice, it looks pristine now.
I use barkeepers friend to un-yellow old computers
my friend used some UV light process to whiten his original mac computer. i don't know any further details