monetarily it's probably cheaper to replace the knife altogether. if the knife has sentimental value you should send it to Victorinox and have them reblade it. obviously you can't just patch that up
Reblade with the manufacturer, contact them first and ask how to handle it. Or donate the knife to Salvation Army and offset the full cost of the new knife by 100%, the government won't bother you for a tool replacement.
Are you Black folk moronic? You just reprofile the blade with a belt sander.
Too much metal is chipped out and at the profile's widest aspect. I'm not keeping a knife with your proposal, it already has a smaller blade which on my knife is polished to 6000 for very fine work. Drop the dude's knife off at Salvation Army so a nog can buy it to chop crack rocks and he can purchase a new blade with the intended profile and functionality.
Reblade with the manufacturer, contact them first and ask how to handle it. Or donate the knife to Salvation Army and offset the full cost of the new knife by 100%, the government won't bother you for a tool replacement.
What the actual frick man. You don't know how to sharpen a knife? You don't know how to use fricking google? Is the only thing you know how to do is asking simple questions and then refusing to learn extremely simple tasks that any male child knew how to do twenty years ago? What the frick is wrong with you?
Well I just dont get how to sharpen and do all that. nobody taught me. so i dont know what im meant to do. ive been looking into getting into sharpening for 10 years now but every time i just get overwhelmed and give up. i ask questions here on PrepHole and so many people just get into arguments over stones and strops and all this fricking shit. its like i need to order a crateload of stuff. i just dont get it. i dont want to keep all this stuff around. it sucks. i wish i could just drop the knife off somewhere and let someone else sharpen it
3 weeks ago
Anonymous
Buy a two-sided whetstone. Rub against the rougher side, then against the smoother side. You literally cannot go wrong. How the frick can you fail at "getting into sharpening" for 10 years?
3 weeks ago
Anonymous
If it takes you ten years to learn how to sharpen a knife you're utterly fricked bro. If you want some honest blunt fricking advice; do something. Literally anything. You don't need to drop $300 on a fancy wet stone. You don't need to watch twenty different youtube videos on how to sharpen a knife. Ignore the people telling you to learn how to use a strope.
Just fricking do something. Buy literally any tool used to shape or sharpen metal. Attempt to sharpen your knife. If it goes well, congrats, you did it. If it doesn't give you the results you want, go look for an answer to a specific question about the results. Then, most importantly of all, do fricking something again. Repeat until you do it, then congrats, you not only have a sharp knife but now you know how to master any skill you want to; by fricking doing something you lazy piece of shit.
3 weeks ago
Anonymous
If it takes you ten years to learn how to sharpen a knife you're utterly fricked bro. If you want some honest blunt fricking advice; do something. Literally anything. You don't need to drop $300 on a fancy wet stone. You don't need to watch twenty different youtube videos on how to sharpen a knife. Ignore the people telling you to learn how to use a strope.
Just fricking do something. Buy literally any tool used to shape or sharpen metal. Attempt to sharpen your knife. If it goes well, congrats, you did it. If it doesn't give you the results you want, go look for an answer to a specific question about the results. Then, most importantly of all, do fricking something again. Repeat until you do it, then congrats, you not only have a sharp knife but now you know how to master any skill you want to; by fricking doing something you lazy piece of shit.
If you want some more specific advice related to sharpening a knife, start aggressive, especially if you want to do shaping, finish fine. Hammer and anvil is as aggressive as it gets, followed by a bastard or flat file. For your specific project, any flat file will do. When you're done sharpening, move onto something less aggressive, or more fine. You can typically double the grit number each sharpening until you get to an 800-1200 grit range, then you'll be going after a stope which is more of a polish on a physical level than a sharpen, even though the sharping is quite real.
So you'll go
Flat file >100 grit stone or sand paper on a flat surface >200grit (220 is more common and will do just fine) >400 (360 is another common grit in this range and will also suffice) > 800 grit >1600 grit (if you feel the need to skin an animal or do some very fine detail work whittling) >stope (if you feel like having a shave)
Initially, you're rough shaping. When you have the profile you'd like, move to the 100 grit. There will be scratches from the rough shaping. The goal on each grit step is to remove the scratches from the last step, until you all the scratches you're leaving are from the current grit. So with the 100 grit take away all the marks the file left. With 200 grit, take away all the scratches the 100 grit leaves. By 400 you should have a smooth surface to the naked eye. Past 400 grit is where you start getting extremely sharp blades. You can stop anywhere you'd like.
Maintain your angles. For a general purpose knife you'll just want an even matching slope on each side of the blade. For a shaper knife you'll want a longer angle, basically more area that you're sharpening. A 15ish° angle is just fine for general use.
If you can't figure it out from here there's no hope for you.
3 weeks ago
Anonymous
> ive been looking into getting into sharpening for 10 years now but every time i just get overwhelmed and give up
you should get checked for adhd.
you just gotta try sharpening it on a coffee cup, cheap whetstone etc. learn by doing, you have nothing to lose.
3 weeks ago
Anonymous
>>you have nothing to lose
Except a ton of metal that otherwise could have been used to do useful things.
3 weeks ago
Anonymous
But it's not. Better to try and fail than not try at all. Stop making excuses about not doing productive things over a dull fricking knife of all things. Holy shit.
What the actual frick man. You don't know how to sharpen a knife? You don't know how to use fricking google? Is the only thing you know how to do is asking simple questions and then refusing to learn extremely simple tasks that any male child knew how to do twenty years ago? What the frick is wrong with you?
monetarily it's probably cheaper to replace the knife altogether. if the knife has sentimental value you should send it to Victorinox and have them reblade it. obviously you can't just patch that up
Are you Black folk moronic? You just reprofile the blade with a belt sander.
or you could replace the blade yourself. Getting the cheapest tinker model and using the scales and blade
Too much metal is chipped out and at the profile's widest aspect. I'm not keeping a knife with your proposal, it already has a smaller blade which on my knife is polished to 6000 for very fine work. Drop the dude's knife off at Salvation Army so a nog can buy it to chop crack rocks and he can purchase a new blade with the intended profile and functionality.
Reblade with the manufacturer, contact them first and ask how to handle it. Or donate the knife to Salvation Army and offset the full cost of the new knife by 100%, the government won't bother you for a tool replacement.
None of you own an anvil?
1. File out any cracks or tears
2. Draw out metal from around and above the nick
3. Reshape and sharpen
Same as with your scythe.
I don't own any of this shit or any tools.
Got a whetstone? Start at a very aggressive angle to work the blade face back to the chip then re-sharpen the blade.
God damn I dont know how to do that either
Buy a new knife. Why did you post this if you’re unwilling to learn and do any of the work?
Well I just dont get how to sharpen and do all that. nobody taught me. so i dont know what im meant to do. ive been looking into getting into sharpening for 10 years now but every time i just get overwhelmed and give up. i ask questions here on PrepHole and so many people just get into arguments over stones and strops and all this fricking shit. its like i need to order a crateload of stuff. i just dont get it. i dont want to keep all this stuff around. it sucks. i wish i could just drop the knife off somewhere and let someone else sharpen it
Buy a two-sided whetstone. Rub against the rougher side, then against the smoother side. You literally cannot go wrong. How the frick can you fail at "getting into sharpening" for 10 years?
If it takes you ten years to learn how to sharpen a knife you're utterly fricked bro. If you want some honest blunt fricking advice; do something. Literally anything. You don't need to drop $300 on a fancy wet stone. You don't need to watch twenty different youtube videos on how to sharpen a knife. Ignore the people telling you to learn how to use a strope.
Just fricking do something. Buy literally any tool used to shape or sharpen metal. Attempt to sharpen your knife. If it goes well, congrats, you did it. If it doesn't give you the results you want, go look for an answer to a specific question about the results. Then, most importantly of all, do fricking something again. Repeat until you do it, then congrats, you not only have a sharp knife but now you know how to master any skill you want to; by fricking doing something you lazy piece of shit.
If you want some more specific advice related to sharpening a knife, start aggressive, especially if you want to do shaping, finish fine. Hammer and anvil is as aggressive as it gets, followed by a bastard or flat file. For your specific project, any flat file will do. When you're done sharpening, move onto something less aggressive, or more fine. You can typically double the grit number each sharpening until you get to an 800-1200 grit range, then you'll be going after a stope which is more of a polish on a physical level than a sharpen, even though the sharping is quite real.
So you'll go
Flat file >100 grit stone or sand paper on a flat surface >200grit (220 is more common and will do just fine) >400 (360 is another common grit in this range and will also suffice) > 800 grit >1600 grit (if you feel the need to skin an animal or do some very fine detail work whittling) >stope (if you feel like having a shave)
Initially, you're rough shaping. When you have the profile you'd like, move to the 100 grit. There will be scratches from the rough shaping. The goal on each grit step is to remove the scratches from the last step, until you all the scratches you're leaving are from the current grit. So with the 100 grit take away all the marks the file left. With 200 grit, take away all the scratches the 100 grit leaves. By 400 you should have a smooth surface to the naked eye. Past 400 grit is where you start getting extremely sharp blades. You can stop anywhere you'd like.
Maintain your angles. For a general purpose knife you'll just want an even matching slope on each side of the blade. For a shaper knife you'll want a longer angle, basically more area that you're sharpening. A 15ish° angle is just fine for general use.
If you can't figure it out from here there's no hope for you.
> ive been looking into getting into sharpening for 10 years now but every time i just get overwhelmed and give up
you should get checked for adhd.
you just gotta try sharpening it on a coffee cup, cheap whetstone etc. learn by doing, you have nothing to lose.
>>you have nothing to lose
Except a ton of metal that otherwise could have been used to do useful things.
But it's not. Better to try and fail than not try at all. Stop making excuses about not doing productive things over a dull fricking knife of all things. Holy shit.
b-bepsi?
What the actual frick man. You don't know how to sharpen a knife? You don't know how to use fricking google? Is the only thing you know how to do is asking simple questions and then refusing to learn extremely simple tasks that any male child knew how to do twenty years ago? What the frick is wrong with you?
Bastard file with a wet stone to finish. Bastard file is sub 10$ and fits in a drawer.
Did you try to cut a diamond rain worm wtf
A 6$ metal rasp to reprofile then normal sharpening with a 2 sided 6$ stone, beware this will not work if you spend more the 15$
buy twenty new knives to practice your repair on