Self bump
What is a good way to remove rust from tools and socket heads? I have a lot of craftsmen tools that are my dads and I want to clean them up. I hear a lot about evapo rust but it’s pretty frickin expensive but it’s reusable. Thoughts?
Electrolysis with an old PC power supply and a container full of water with a little bit of washing powder will do the trick, you just need a big lump of sacrificial iron to attract the rust off whatever tools, parts, or junk you want to de-rust. Otherwise molasses like anon
It's wild but molasses works really well, you just gotta let it sit for full on weeks. Pretty cheap tho, and no effort required really. Project farm on yt did this vid on it
?si=Yu6FT-0wp1fIQrIg
suggested is another good option, but there's a risk of it getting moldy in warmer weather.
picrel from Harbor Freight for small jobs. You can use it over and over too.
electrolysis in a plastic bin with motorcycle battery and trickle charger for big stuff
>Thoughts?
I made my own "Evaporust".
Dissolve 100g EDTA (buy a bag of 4Na kind off ebay) in 1L of distilled water. EDTA is alkaline so we need to make it neutral by adding Citric acid until it hits neutral pH (7). You can use pH strips from the pool supply store. Need more? Scale by adding 10% of EDTA to distilled water and buffering to neutral with citric acid.
You end up with chelating solution that's very close to Evaporust but is dirt cheap. It costs pennies. The negative is that it's not as fast as Evaporust and it will take you 50% longer to get same results. I restored a whole car with this solution.
For small parts and tools with crevices: like a tablespoon of citric acid in 1000 mL water, degrease tools and put in containers, then 10 min in ultrasonic cleaner at 40 C, wire brush/scotchbrite pad to remove the loosened rust. Rinse, put in evaporust, ultrasonic for 15 min, then let sit in warm bath til it does its thang. I restore a lot of tiny crap and a 6 L sonicator was worth the investment but it's not necessary for bigger objects, just really handy and fast.
Ospho.
Pretty sure they still make it. My mom probably has an almost full can stashed somewhere in her house. It is the polish soaked gauze or whatever the hell material it is and you rip out a chunk and use it to polish right? We always used it for brass...
The cotton wadding in a can is Nevr-Dull, discussed along with Ospho here [...]
Ospho is great but it's a rust converter and leaves a layer of material that may interfere with moving parts on tools and other equipment...but its perfect for treating things like old car bodies and parts where there's crevices and crannies you can't get into with brushes or abrasives, it's water thin and can be applied with a spray bottle. Even on clean new steel it's a good paint prep when applied right.
But unlike Nevr-Dull it's not a polish, and only works on steel/rust AFAIK.
Ospho is awesome, similar to Naval Jelly in that they use phosphoric acid. Use it on all big metal things!
I have a very old drill press. The only thing that hadn't been cover in 16 layers of cheap paint was the chuck. It was made by Supreme and black. Never heard of them. Maybe they did that to their tools to protect them? I eventually did a teardown on it to clean it. Nope. Once I dropped it out of the Morse taper I could see that the unexposed area of of the steel were just plain. Somehow just the chuck on this thing self converted into FeO. I left it that way.
seems like old tools will do that if they're generally well-cared for (aka not allowed to just turn into solid rust). Iron forms some rust (red oxide) and some magnetite (black oxide) when oxidized. The magnetite is tough and the red oxide is easily removed, so the tools gradually turn fully blued if maintained. The rust-bluing method is a good technique for doing it quickly.
picrel from Harbor Freight for small jobs. You can use it over and over too.
electrolysis in a plastic bin with motorcycle battery and trickle charger for big stuff
For plain steel, either soak in CLR for stuff with precision fitted parts like screw adjusters or hinges, or Ospho for things that can stand a layer of black oxide coating from converted rust...both followed by penetratimg oil, WD 40 is perfect.
For rust spots on chrome, picrel is the best thing ever invented, and can bring 100% rust covered chrome plated parts back to blindingly shiny; they don't call it "magic" for nothing.
Also it lasts pretty much forever if you keep the lid tight, stuuf thecused pieces back in the can and it only goes away when the wadding gets shredded on rough or pointy surfaces.
Holy shit, you must be a boomer.
My dad had a can of this, so I bought one about 20 years ago.
I remember spending hours with my dad polishing the rust out of chrome bumpers (remember those?)
It would be amazing if they still make it.
Mine is still good, i use it for removing rust from my wife’s chrome face mirrors in the bathroom since they get rusty with the moisture.
Ospho.
Pretty sure they still make it. My mom probably has an almost full can stashed somewhere in her house. It is the polish soaked gauze or whatever the hell material it is and you rip out a chunk and use it to polish right? We always used it for brass...
The cotton wadding in a can is Nevr-Dull, discussed along with Ospho here
https://i.imgur.com/OmYPaYB.jpg
For plain steel, either soak in CLR for stuff with precision fitted parts like screw adjusters or hinges, or Ospho for things that can stand a layer of black oxide coating from converted rust...both followed by penetratimg oil, WD 40 is perfect.
For rust spots on chrome, picrel is the best thing ever invented, and can bring 100% rust covered chrome plated parts back to blindingly shiny; they don't call it "magic" for nothing.
Also it lasts pretty much forever if you keep the lid tight, stuuf thecused pieces back in the can and it only goes away when the wadding gets shredded on rough or pointy surfaces.
Ospho is great but it's a rust converter and leaves a layer of material that may interfere with moving parts on tools and other equipment...but its perfect for treating things like old car bodies and parts where there's crevices and crannies you can't get into with brushes or abrasives, it's water thin and can be applied with a spray bottle. Even on clean new steel it's a good paint prep when applied right.
But unlike Nevr-Dull it's not a polish, and only works on steel/rust AFAIK.
It's wild but molasses works really well, you just gotta let it sit for full on weeks. Pretty cheap tho, and no effort required really. Project farm on yt did this vid on it
50/50 mix of acetone and auto-transmission fluid, let it soak for a while and then take a wirewheel/brush to it. Use a brass one [actual brass, not just brass-washed steel] if it's sensitive shit, otherwise, frickitol.
I use citric acid, works great. Pumping some current through the workpiece will speed it up. The citrate ion complexes with the iron to dissolve it, while also acting as a reducing agent to discourage further oxidation in solution.
Though I've wanted to try melting citric acid in a solder pot and using that instead, bet it could eat the oxide off a soldering iron tip.
Though citric acid will not function as a preventative, so you need a plan for that to stop it flash rusting after you rinse it off.
I use anything that says it removes or converts rust, with Phosphoric acid and zinc chloride. The brand does not matter, the main thing is preparation: degreasing and temperature.
Citric acid if you want something simple and on the budget. Better than vinegar and doesn't smell like ass. Restored a couple of car parts like that, worked well.
I once used this rust remover, and it worked great, but than shit got fricked.
- it turned out rust remover went in so deep it somehow removed whatever was protecting from rust in the first place, and the tools I used it on get rusty very fast from contact with air alone.
Should I have diluted it with water or something?
Is there some other rust remover that will also work but won't frick up the whatever protects steel from rust?
I have a very old drill press. The only thing that hadn't been cover in 16 layers of cheap paint was the chuck. It was made by Supreme and black. Never heard of them. Maybe they did that to their tools to protect them? I eventually did a teardown on it to clean it. Nope. Once I dropped it out of the Morse taper I could see that the unexposed area of of the steel were just plain. Somehow just the chuck on this thing self converted into FeO. I left it that way.
So I was watching some Youtube earlier this evening and Salvage Workshop drug home some oddball grader piece of shit with a seized up engine that had a ton of water in it. I was wondering if anyone had ever filled a seized up engine with evaporust and let er sit for a while and then rocked it back and forth until it started turning again. I'd think it just might work if it isn't pitted too bad!
I did it for a 289 block that someone left out under a tarp. Used 2 cans of pb blaster, trash bagged it and left it overnight. I was able to break it loose and strip it down to rebuild.
Self bump
What is a good way to remove rust from tools and socket heads? I have a lot of craftsmen tools that are my dads and I want to clean them up. I hear a lot about evapo rust but it’s pretty frickin expensive but it’s reusable. Thoughts?
Electrolysis with an old PC power supply and a container full of water with a little bit of washing powder will do the trick, you just need a big lump of sacrificial iron to attract the rust off whatever tools, parts, or junk you want to de-rust. Otherwise molasses like anon
suggested is another good option, but there's a risk of it getting moldy in warmer weather.
>Thoughts?
I made my own "Evaporust".
Dissolve 100g EDTA (buy a bag of 4Na kind off ebay) in 1L of distilled water. EDTA is alkaline so we need to make it neutral by adding Citric acid until it hits neutral pH (7). You can use pH strips from the pool supply store. Need more? Scale by adding 10% of EDTA to distilled water and buffering to neutral with citric acid.
You end up with chelating solution that's very close to Evaporust but is dirt cheap. It costs pennies. The negative is that it's not as fast as Evaporust and it will take you 50% longer to get same results. I restored a whole car with this solution.
Thumbs up
For small parts and tools with crevices: like a tablespoon of citric acid in 1000 mL water, degrease tools and put in containers, then 10 min in ultrasonic cleaner at 40 C, wire brush/scotchbrite pad to remove the loosened rust. Rinse, put in evaporust, ultrasonic for 15 min, then let sit in warm bath til it does its thang. I restore a lot of tiny crap and a 6 L sonicator was worth the investment but it's not necessary for bigger objects, just really handy and fast.
Ospho is awesome, similar to Naval Jelly in that they use phosphoric acid. Use it on all big metal things!
seems like old tools will do that if they're generally well-cared for (aka not allowed to just turn into solid rust). Iron forms some rust (red oxide) and some magnetite (black oxide) when oxidized. The magnetite is tough and the red oxide is easily removed, so the tools gradually turn fully blued if maintained. The rust-bluing method is a good technique for doing it quickly.
picrel from Harbor Freight for small jobs. You can use it over and over too.
electrolysis in a plastic bin with motorcycle battery and trickle charger for big stuff
if it's not dangerous, it doesn't work.
Iron Out is my go to. don't get it on your skin unless you want your hands to peel
For plain steel, either soak in CLR for stuff with precision fitted parts like screw adjusters or hinges, or Ospho for things that can stand a layer of black oxide coating from converted rust...both followed by penetratimg oil, WD 40 is perfect.
For rust spots on chrome, picrel is the best thing ever invented, and can bring 100% rust covered chrome plated parts back to blindingly shiny; they don't call it "magic" for nothing.
Also it lasts pretty much forever if you keep the lid tight, stuuf thecused pieces back in the can and it only goes away when the wadding gets shredded on rough or pointy surfaces.
Holy shit, you must be a boomer.
My dad had a can of this, so I bought one about 20 years ago.
I remember spending hours with my dad polishing the rust out of chrome bumpers (remember those?)
It would be amazing if they still make it.
Mine is still good, i use it for removing rust from my wife’s chrome face mirrors in the bathroom since they get rusty with the moisture.
Ospho.
Pretty sure they still make it. My mom probably has an almost full can stashed somewhere in her house. It is the polish soaked gauze or whatever the hell material it is and you rip out a chunk and use it to polish right? We always used it for brass...
The cotton wadding in a can is Nevr-Dull, discussed along with Ospho here
Ospho is great but it's a rust converter and leaves a layer of material that may interfere with moving parts on tools and other equipment...but its perfect for treating things like old car bodies and parts where there's crevices and crannies you can't get into with brushes or abrasives, it's water thin and can be applied with a spray bottle. Even on clean new steel it's a good paint prep when applied right.
But unlike Nevr-Dull it's not a polish, and only works on steel/rust AFAIK.
I use never dull on silver.
Hydrocloric acid, warm.
It's wild but molasses works really well, you just gotta let it sit for full on weeks. Pretty cheap tho, and no effort required really. Project farm on yt did this vid on it
?si=Yu6FT-0wp1fIQrIg
how much urea in that molasses?
Time travel works the best
When you've travelled back in time until the rust isn't present then test your tools with a protective layer of oil
Step 1: Throw old tool in trash
Step 2: Drive to Harbor Freight
certified moron
nah theres something special about working with the same tools for a long time.
>method for rust removal
hammer
unless it's the hammer that's rusty
then I don't know what to do
Hit it with another hammer duh
vinegar if i´m far from a shop with a reusable liquid.
i just use a wire brush and normal-ass soap for the conventional grimy dust that gets in there and the brush knocks off the rust
deluded phosphoric acid
>deluded
Get some toilet bowl cleaner for $6 and soak it overnight. Make sure it has muriatic acid in the ingredients for better results.
I only buy chrome plated pliers.
>PrepHole‘s go to method
buying it new and never using it ever again
That's Bepis's method
Mollases
honestly if it's that rusted it's a tool you didnt need, find something else.
in coastal/tropical countries it is going to rust no matter how much you use it moron-kun
What I have done is soak in oil and then brush with a nylon brush.
50/50 mix of acetone and auto-transmission fluid, let it soak for a while and then take a wirewheel/brush to it. Use a brass one [actual brass, not just brass-washed steel] if it's sensitive shit, otherwise, frickitol.
I use citric acid, works great. Pumping some current through the workpiece will speed it up. The citrate ion complexes with the iron to dissolve it, while also acting as a reducing agent to discourage further oxidation in solution.
Though I've wanted to try melting citric acid in a solder pot and using that instead, bet it could eat the oxide off a soldering iron tip.
Though citric acid will not function as a preventative, so you need a plan for that to stop it flash rusting after you rinse it off.
Vinegar
I use anything that says it removes or converts rust, with Phosphoric acid and zinc chloride. The brand does not matter, the main thing is preparation: degreasing and temperature.
Citric acid if you want something simple and on the budget. Better than vinegar and doesn't smell like ass. Restored a couple of car parts like that, worked well.
I once used this rust remover, and it worked great, but than shit got fricked.
- it turned out rust remover went in so deep it somehow removed whatever was protecting from rust in the first place, and the tools I used it on get rusty very fast from contact with air alone.
Should I have diluted it with water or something?
Is there some other rust remover that will also work but won't frick up the whatever protects steel from rust?
Boil tool for 15 min to convert remaining iron 2 oxide to iron 3 oxide.
Knock off rust with steel wool. Oil well
>iron 3 oxide.
Interesting, thanks.
I have a very old drill press. The only thing that hadn't been cover in 16 layers of cheap paint was the chuck. It was made by Supreme and black. Never heard of them. Maybe they did that to their tools to protect them? I eventually did a teardown on it to clean it. Nope. Once I dropped it out of the Morse taper I could see that the unexposed area of of the steel were just plain. Somehow just the chuck on this thing self converted into FeO. I left it that way.
Frick, forgot the picture from the teardown.
WD40
As for the picture, you only need to remove rust from inside the hinge, the rest doesnt matter
Delicious WD40.
Sometimes I'll use steel wool too if it's a particularly rusty PoS.
Dubya dee and a wire wheel
So I was watching some Youtube earlier this evening and Salvage Workshop drug home some oddball grader piece of shit with a seized up engine that had a ton of water in it. I was wondering if anyone had ever filled a seized up engine with evaporust and let er sit for a while and then rocked it back and forth until it started turning again. I'd think it just might work if it isn't pitted too bad!
I did it for a 289 block that someone left out under a tarp. Used 2 cans of pb blaster, trash bagged it and left it overnight. I was able to break it loose and strip it down to rebuild.
Solution of 90% of peroxide, 10% white vinegar and 1/4 cup of salt per gallon. Let soak overnight and scrub with a wire brush
Citric acid.
Or just boil to blue the metal.
Steel wool soaked in vinegar
polish, wash, dry then a layer of WD40.