Square bit tier list
Best: Wiha
Good: Mastercraft, Milwaukee, Maximum
Shit: Anything with black phosphate coating, Bosch (works well after being stripped though)
Super shit: Spyder
"Square" bits, the most common sizes being typically a #1, 2, &3, are actually called Robert's bits. They are used most often for interior permanent fixtures like cabinets, furniture, desks, trim, signage, etc whether it be commercial or residential. Torx bits refer to the star type bits beginning with the 3rd or 4th from left on top row and continuing to right. Torx bit screws can basically be sunk as deep as you want, even in treated lumber, & are easily taken out and can be reused several times without any real damage or head stripping. My personal preference for rough framework, decks, or fences or for any heavy duty exterior work or repairs.
>"Square" bits, the most common sizes being typically a #1, 2, &3, are actually called Robert's bits.
robertson.
square and robertson are two different bits, actually. square is a straight bit while robertson has a slight taper to it.
Hey chud, diversity is our strength! There have always been hundreds of types of screwheads but bigots like you kept most of them down while pushing for only the Phillips/Slotted heteronormal scheme.
>strips >strips >strips >strips >strips
why do they make screws out of metal as soft as cheese? I think I'd rather strip my tool than the screw that's in an important piece of hardware because I can always buy a new bit for 10 cents but I can't always drill out a machine screw embedded in a piece of electronics or something
Plenty of screws are designed to strip the bit instead of themselves. morons complain about the torx bit included with their screws always stripping like that's not a feature of them.
The reason that Philips strip is because no one uses them correctly. They cam out as a way to tell the user that they're at torque (were originally used on airplane assembly lines in WW2 (never forget)) but nowadays people get the cam and think "neEds MoRe uGGa duGgAs" and strip the screw
>They cam out as a way to tell the user that they're at torque
that's neat, but the problem is every time they cam out they strip, and sometimes one frickup will ruin the screw entirely. Plus, a screw that's already in can end up getting stuck somehow. Screws basically never strip putting them in, it's always taking them out that causes the problem. When your philips head cams out when you're trying to take it out a simple procedure can become a surgery operation on a piece of equipment. That's why when I unscrew stuff I almost always put an almost excessive amount of pressure down on the screwdriver, because if it cams out once it could potentially ruin the screw and then I'm screwed.
Sounds like a skill issue. Philips should never take pressure to he screwed in and the first time the bit jumps out of the screw you need to stop tightening. You're using the wrong equipment if you need more torque than a Philips can provide
You clearly didn't understand what I wrote, I suggest reading it again. I'm not talking about screwing anything in, I'm talking about unscrewing things. You often need more torque than a philips can provide because screws that are already in can often get stuck.
A Philips screw is used for assembling items to the correct torque. While no one is disputing that corrosion and other factors can increase the removal torque to beyond the Philips screw head capacity, alternative screw heads exist for products where future disassembly is contemplated.
10 months ago
Anonymous
Okay, sorry for being rude kek
If I made something to be taken apart later I'd use something like torx for small things and hex head bolts and stuff for larger ones. But I always run into cheaply designed stuff that needs to be fixed, and they're soft metal philips heads, and they get stuck. Usually electronics.
10 months ago
Anonymous
> But I always run into cheaply designed stuff that needs to be fixed, and they're soft metal philips heads, and they get stuck. Usually electronics.
This is caused by
Philips are designed to mbe stripped after tightening so they become "rivets" per se.
Philips is meant for use by robots on production lines and is never meant for removal.
. They’re pick up with magnetic bits on assembly robots. And they’re cheap; the slots are small so cheaper/softer metal can be used.
9 months ago
Anonymous
>A Philips screw is used for assembling items to the correct torque.
Burgers finding the most rarted solution when clutches on drills exist.
All burgers know is ugga dugga.
Robertson is the superior drive. The screw stays on the driver in any position, you can make your own screwdriver with quarter inch rod and a grinding wheel.
Philips sucks, the bit will skip while putiing a drywall screw into softwood and falls off the driver anywhere except vertical.
Should and jobsite conditions are two entirely different things. You can frick around with a torx pretty well at some monkey-ass moronic cramped space at like a 30 degree angle between some studs or something and still sink the head. And probably take it out to boot.
Those are the only two requirements I really see, because it has to go in and if it's getting taken out then it gets tossed.
I was trying to search, like, "narrow area drill," or other things along those lines and found this. Anyone have experience with one of pic related?
There’s makitas 51867 which is thinner and nicer quality than those plastic ones.
But if you do get one like that, one tip, get a 90 degrees one or one with a 90 degrees adapter. Most screws that can’t be reached with the drill straight (because they’re too close to eg the next stud) can be reached with 90 degrees in my experience.
You can also use 2 90s with a straight extension inbetween to go ‘around’ something
> They cam out as a way to tell the user that they're at torque
The problem is that as soon as the screwdriver is 0.1 degree out of alignment the cam-out torque reduces by half.
Straight walled heads like torx and hex are self aligning
this woule fix all the downsides of both slotted and phillips in one go and i dont get why they dont exist. i hate slottted like nothing else because it always slips out you effectivley have to use two hands, one to turn the driver and one to hold the tip in place to prevent it from slipping out. and phillips wouldnt be so bad like others already complained if it was straight walled all the way down like hex or, well, slotted are.
also, flat heads not actually being flat but tapered probably doesnt help either.
I repair and refurbish nintendo consoles on the side, they use a lot of tri-wing screws in their systems - they're not too bad actually, and I haven't seen any of them get stripped yet (fingers crossed) but maybe that's just the higher quality nintendo screws and not some chineseum trash
its also more correctly called a square. Robertson didn't invent square drive screws; just a particular way to manufacture them.
If they weren't invented by Robertson, or manufactured using his machine, then why the frick would we call them Robertson at all?
This is like making the argument that it's actually all called Kleenex. Eat some more poutine and get over it
Robertson =/= square drive. Robertsons are tapered as they go down and square drives are not. Most square drives are incorrectly labeled but it's impossible to tell from OPs picture if it's a square or Robertson
It depends greatly on the tool.
If it's a handle tool like a normal screwdriver, torx or square
If it's an impact gun, fricking any of them
If it's gotta come out in 10 years, one of the two hex head ones
If it's huge, spline
If Black folk, H type or spanner
If Nintendo, y type
If it's a bolt, hexagon
Anything not listed is a mental disorder
Square or six-lobe are most common and about equal for me. With squares I break screwheads more often, with six-lobe I strip the bit more often. Both are vastly superior to Phillips. Will never buy another Phillips woodscrew if I can avoid it. Used to work with clutch head a lot, and they sucked. But that probably has a lot to do with them being encountered on 60+ yo automobiles.
Philips are designed to mbe stripped after tightening so they become "rivets" per se.
Philips is meant for use by robots on production lines and is never meant for removal.
>Philips are designed to mbe stripped after tightening so they become "rivets" per se.
Do you have know where we can read more about this?
> But I always run into cheaply designed stuff that needs to be fixed, and they're soft metal philips heads, and they get stuck. Usually electronics.
This is caused by [...]. They’re pick up with magnetic bits on assembly robots. And they’re cheap; the slots are small so cheaper/softer metal can be used.
>where we can read more about this?
Sorry but I'm digging through foggy memories of textbooks I read in the 90's. Or was it a shop teacher giving me a lecture?
>Or was it a shop teacher giving me a lecture?
School teachers aren't a really great source. One told the class if the Earth ever stopped spinning, gravity would stop and we would all float out to space. Another told us that oil is Earth's lubricant and by removing oil from the ground, the planet has stronger Earthquakes.
>Philips is meant for use by robots on production lines and is never meant for removal.
Then why when I go to a ironmongery they sell Philips screws as in they were made to be removed and used to build stuff that's supposed to be serviceable? Or am I stupid?
heating up the end of a bic biro and jamming it into the screw head, letting it cool then unscrewing is the cure for mental disorders it literally conforms to any shape
Robertson square is objectively based and logical and chadpilled for any electrical panels or breakers or enclosures. Anyone who disagrees with this is not human.
Flathead is objectively the best screw type. Phillips is a fairly distant second. Any circular bullshit like torx or, god forgive me for uttering this name, h*x, strips like it has an only fans.
All of these are great but I really like it when things are riveted or they use those plastic clip leaf spring things. On my own projects I like to use comically large roofers nails for everything because i can get them for free by going outside. My favorite mental disorder on the picture though is the triangle because I like making fun of the absolute idiots who buy bits for those, like jeez man you're supposed to use the pointy end of the scissors sorry your mentally disabled ass only ever uses the kitchen sears your wife bought everyone for christmas five years ago on the home shopping network
Six lobe. I’ve heard it’s purpose was supposed to be so that consumers couldn’t easily take apart products without that specialty screw driver for it. If that was the purpose it completely failed in that endeavor for me because I can just get a flathead to twist it just fine.
Flathead is nice for some things.
Torx or square should be the standard.
Phillips is absolute trash that strips out constantly unless you're perfectly aligned and applying only the perfect amount of pressure.
Hex. It's what's used on the bolts that hold down the dies to actually make your plebe-ass Phillips and flathead screws in the heading machine >t. Ex boltmaker
I was to a shop in Switzerland where I usually buy this morning, they almost only sell six-lobe wood screws. wtf happened? is it better for grip or something?
Torx, you heathen!
>bit strips round after you use it on 30 screws
Skill issue, I put together a whole fricking deck and stairs with one bit
Not possible unless your technique is shit or you're using chinkshit driver bits.
youre thinking of hex
don't use chink bits moron
Square bit tier list
Best: Wiha
Good: Mastercraft, Milwaukee, Maximum
Shit: Anything with black phosphate coating, Bosch (works well after being stripped though)
Super shit: Spyder
t. electrician apprentice
Torx is good in the larger sizes, but the small torx screws round out so easily.
"Square" bits, the most common sizes being typically a #1, 2, &3, are actually called Robert's bits. They are used most often for interior permanent fixtures like cabinets, furniture, desks, trim, signage, etc whether it be commercial or residential. Torx bits refer to the star type bits beginning with the 3rd or 4th from left on top row and continuing to right. Torx bit screws can basically be sunk as deep as you want, even in treated lumber, & are easily taken out and can be reused several times without any real damage or head stripping. My personal preference for rough framework, decks, or fences or for any heavy duty exterior work or repairs.
>"Square" bits, the most common sizes being typically a #1, 2, &3, are actually called Robert's bits.
robertson.
square and robertson are two different bits, actually. square is a straight bit while robertson has a slight taper to it.
Imbus.
Hey chud, diversity is our strength! There have always been hundreds of types of screwheads but bigots like you kept most of them down while pushing for only the Phillips/Slotted heteronormal scheme.
>strips
>strips
>strips
>strips
>strips
why do they make screws out of metal as soft as cheese? I think I'd rather strip my tool than the screw that's in an important piece of hardware because I can always buy a new bit for 10 cents but I can't always drill out a machine screw embedded in a piece of electronics or something
Plenty of screws are designed to strip the bit instead of themselves. morons complain about the torx bit included with their screws always stripping like that's not a feature of them.
The reason that Philips strip is because no one uses them correctly. They cam out as a way to tell the user that they're at torque (were originally used on airplane assembly lines in WW2 (never forget)) but nowadays people get the cam and think "neEds MoRe uGGa duGgAs" and strip the screw
>They cam out as a way to tell the user that they're at torque
that's neat, but the problem is every time they cam out they strip, and sometimes one frickup will ruin the screw entirely. Plus, a screw that's already in can end up getting stuck somehow. Screws basically never strip putting them in, it's always taking them out that causes the problem. When your philips head cams out when you're trying to take it out a simple procedure can become a surgery operation on a piece of equipment. That's why when I unscrew stuff I almost always put an almost excessive amount of pressure down on the screwdriver, because if it cams out once it could potentially ruin the screw and then I'm screwed.
Sounds like a skill issue. Philips should never take pressure to he screwed in and the first time the bit jumps out of the screw you need to stop tightening. You're using the wrong equipment if you need more torque than a Philips can provide
You clearly didn't understand what I wrote, I suggest reading it again. I'm not talking about screwing anything in, I'm talking about unscrewing things. You often need more torque than a philips can provide because screws that are already in can often get stuck.
A Philips screw is used for assembling items to the correct torque. While no one is disputing that corrosion and other factors can increase the removal torque to beyond the Philips screw head capacity, alternative screw heads exist for products where future disassembly is contemplated.
Okay, sorry for being rude kek
If I made something to be taken apart later I'd use something like torx for small things and hex head bolts and stuff for larger ones. But I always run into cheaply designed stuff that needs to be fixed, and they're soft metal philips heads, and they get stuck. Usually electronics.
> But I always run into cheaply designed stuff that needs to be fixed, and they're soft metal philips heads, and they get stuck. Usually electronics.
This is caused by
. They’re pick up with magnetic bits on assembly robots. And they’re cheap; the slots are small so cheaper/softer metal can be used.
>A Philips screw is used for assembling items to the correct torque.
Burgers finding the most rarted solution when clutches on drills exist.
All burgers know is ugga dugga.
Robertson is the superior drive. The screw stays on the driver in any position, you can make your own screwdriver with quarter inch rod and a grinding wheel.
Philips sucks, the bit will skip while putiing a drywall screw into softwood and falls off the driver anywhere except vertical.
Should and jobsite conditions are two entirely different things. You can frick around with a torx pretty well at some monkey-ass moronic cramped space at like a 30 degree angle between some studs or something and still sink the head. And probably take it out to boot.
Those are the only two requirements I really see, because it has to go in and if it's getting taken out then it gets tossed.
I was trying to search, like, "narrow area drill," or other things along those lines and found this. Anyone have experience with one of pic related?
There’s makitas 51867 which is thinner and nicer quality than those plastic ones.
But if you do get one like that, one tip, get a 90 degrees one or one with a 90 degrees adapter. Most screws that can’t be reached with the drill straight (because they’re too close to eg the next stud) can be reached with 90 degrees in my experience.
You can also use 2 90s with a straight extension inbetween to go ‘around’ something
Yeah I hve used one of those. Theyre shit, cant apply any force.
you need to learn how to read, fricking moron
> They cam out as a way to tell the user that they're at torque
The problem is that as soon as the screwdriver is 0.1 degree out of alignment the cam-out torque reduces by half.
Straight walled heads like torx and hex are self aligning
Yep. While they're at it let's make all screws magnetic too.
I love hexagon/allen and i see the appeal of the square
Why cant there be two fully slotted crosses. Do they hate leverage or something?
this woule fix all the downsides of both slotted and phillips in one go and i dont get why they dont exist. i hate slottted like nothing else because it always slips out you effectivley have to use two hands, one to turn the driver and one to hold the tip in place to prevent it from slipping out. and phillips wouldnt be so bad like others already complained if it was straight walled all the way down like hex or, well, slotted are.
also, flat heads not actually being flat but tapered probably doesnt help either.
Pozidriv takes this approach.
Pozidrive is just a hollow ground cross drive.
you mean like this? Then the drive is just a big asterisk. now someone tell me what the downside is.
Spline. If i round it off, nobody can tell
I repair and refurbish nintendo consoles on the side, they use a lot of tri-wing screws in their systems - they're not too bad actually, and I haven't seen any of them get stripped yet (fingers crossed) but maybe that's just the higher quality nintendo screws and not some chineseum trash
>square
It's called a Robertson you dolt.
Do you also call picrel a Sawzall?
If you call a philips a philips then you should call a robertson a robertson. If you call one a square then you should call the other a cross.
it's phillips (different from philips)
nice try
That's clearly a Makitazall
Säbelsäge
its also more correctly called a square. Robertson didn't invent square drive screws; just a particular way to manufacture them.
If they weren't invented by Robertson, or manufactured using his machine, then why the frick would we call them Robertson at all?
This is like making the argument that it's actually all called Kleenex. Eat some more poutine and get over it
Robertson =/= square drive. Robertsons are tapered as they go down and square drives are not. Most square drives are incorrectly labeled but it's impossible to tell from OPs picture if it's a square or Robertson
It depends greatly on the tool.
If it's a handle tool like a normal screwdriver, torx or square
If it's an impact gun, fricking any of them
If it's gotta come out in 10 years, one of the two hex head ones
If it's huge, spline
If Black folk, H type or spanner
If Nintendo, y type
If it's a bolt, hexagon
Anything not listed is a mental disorder
I love six lobe tamper and hex tamper because you can almost always fit a screwdriver in there
Philips/slot hex unless I'm doing something to look nice, then slotted.
Square or six-lobe are most common and about equal for me. With squares I break screwheads more often, with six-lobe I strip the bit more often. Both are vastly superior to Phillips. Will never buy another Phillips woodscrew if I can avoid it. Used to work with clutch head a lot, and they sucked. But that probably has a lot to do with them being encountered on 60+ yo automobiles.
>60+ yo automobiles.
Those screws were never designed to be removed. Cars have always been disposable. Drill them out.
Philips are designed to mbe stripped after tightening so they become "rivets" per se.
Philips is meant for use by robots on production lines and is never meant for removal.
>Philips are designed to mbe stripped after tightening so they become "rivets" per se.
Do you have know where we can read more about this?
I think I don't like philips anymore
>where we can read more about this?
Sorry but I'm digging through foggy memories of textbooks I read in the 90's. Or was it a shop teacher giving me a lecture?
>Or was it a shop teacher giving me a lecture?
School teachers aren't a really great source. One told the class if the Earth ever stopped spinning, gravity would stop and we would all float out to space. Another told us that oil is Earth's lubricant and by removing oil from the ground, the planet has stronger Earthquakes.
>Philips is meant for use by robots on production lines and is never meant for removal.
Then why when I go to a ironmongery they sell Philips screws as in they were made to be removed and used to build stuff that's supposed to be serviceable? Or am I stupid?
The people who spec'ed them for removable parts were lazy but here we are. They're cheap but they suck.
squares are good until they strip out, then it's hell
>jpg
what fricking morons
>Copenseethe.jpg
Classified infohazard, don't jerk off while looking at this image or your soul will be 72 kinds of fricked
Square tip #2 for the win. it is the best, and as an Electrician, I am so pleased to see it being used more often.
I really like the feeling of a JIS "philips" best I've felt
Try the PR2 instead of a PH2 and bask in the grippiness—like a cat on a shag rug grip.
Phillips is shit
heating up the end of a bic biro and jamming it into the screw head, letting it cool then unscrewing is the cure for mental disorders it literally conforms to any shape
Robertson square is objectively based and logical and chadpilled for any electrical panels or breakers or enclosures. Anyone who disagrees with this is not human.
robertson confuses and angers the sparky so they made their own combo bits to fit the conbo screws.
JIS, square, and allen.
Allen and JIS I get the most
Torx or Robertson/Square
The wedge design of the Robertson really sells it for me over Torx but I like both
what is the bit used for sockets, light switches, etc?
Neither PH nor PZ for perfectly, are they JIS or what?
Green Robertson #1 fits most household wiring devices. Of course cover plates are still slotted oval heads.
Red Robbie fits breakers and some conduit fittings.
the screw heads look kinda like PH, but no PH bit fits them
they holes aren't square
Post pics
FPH2
>Flat/Phillips
FPZ2
>Flat/Pozidriv
Go on Aliexpress
all screws should be robertson or torx. philips has cam out issues and flat head only belongs on trim screws.
Inverse hex dominates all.
i love hex
Square and torx for wood
Hex/SHCS for machinery
which ever one of you homosexuals is responsible for philips/square, I will find you, and I'll be waiting outside
I believe you’re looking for Mr. Philips and Mr. Roberson.
Flathead is objectively the best screw type. Phillips is a fairly distant second. Any circular bullshit like torx or, god forgive me for uttering this name, h*x, strips like it has an only fans.
Flathead is absolutely dogshit, objectively the worst type still used
A flathead screwdriver can turn all of these.
>but anon you'll ground the scr-
SHUT UP homosexual NOBODY CARES
All of these are great but I really like it when things are riveted or they use those plastic clip leaf spring things. On my own projects I like to use comically large roofers nails for everything because i can get them for free by going outside. My favorite mental disorder on the picture though is the triangle because I like making fun of the absolute idiots who buy bits for those, like jeez man you're supposed to use the pointy end of the scissors sorry your mentally disabled ass only ever uses the kitchen sears your wife bought everyone for christmas five years ago on the home shopping network
Power Tools
>Ryobi
Hand Tools
>Harbor Freight/Craftsman (Taiwan)
Is this correct?
If you never use your tools?
Good enough for homeowner stuff. Upgrade when something breaks.
Six lobe. I’ve heard it’s purpose was supposed to be so that consumers couldn’t easily take apart products without that specialty screw driver for it. If that was the purpose it completely failed in that endeavor for me because I can just get a flathead to twist it just fine.
Flathead is nice for some things.
Torx or square should be the standard.
Phillips is absolute trash that strips out constantly unless you're perfectly aligned and applying only the perfect amount of pressure.
Hex. It's what's used on the bolts that hold down the dies to actually make your plebe-ass Phillips and flathead screws in the heading machine
>t. Ex boltmaker
I was to a shop in Switzerland where I usually buy this morning, they almost only sell six-lobe wood screws. wtf happened? is it better for grip or something?