-An SAE and Metric ratchet set with extensions
-A short and long pair of needle nose plier
-Wire cutters
-A standard size pair of regular pliers
-A adjustable wrench
-Set of Allen keys
-Small pry bar
-Small mallet or hammer
-1 large and 1 small Philips and 1 large and 1 small flathead screwdriver
-Small adjustable flashlight
-Pen and notepad
-A few Band-Aids and a few alcohol wipes
-Bandana or small rag
OH AND TAPE! A good brand of electrical tape, some multi-surface glue. Also maybe some marine putty, that shit is like gold and is great for temp. pipe patches
What are some 'must have' tools for a handy-man's toolbox?
I would also add:
-A few small cold punches and chisels.
>helps with removing rivets, shitty fasteners, etc.
-A scribe, something longish and double-ended. One end hooked.
>to poke at paint or crud in order to get a driver into a screw head
-A cheapass thick-leaded pencil like a 0.9mm Bic.
>thick enough to write with angry hands, can also be used to clean the contact point for carbon brushes on an electric motor.
-An telescoping and positionable magnet.
>To fish out the shit you dropped dumbass.
The following wrenches:
-Engineer's wrenches with the following pair ups: 9/16" and 1/2", and 11/16" and 3/4", plus whatever metric equivalents. Probably a 8mm and 10mm, and whatever else eurogays use for hydraulic or heavy use shit.
>There are some VERY commonly used sizes for most fasteners, you don't need a whole wrench roll. Couple these with your 8" or 10" Crescent wrench and you'll open most shit.
-A handful of long combination wrenches with the more diminutive sizes like 5/16, 1/4, etc.
>This will allow you to get to hard to adjust set-screws and small assemblies in tight spaces
-A decent medium use tape measure.
>Measure shit that's longer than your body length. Can also fish shit out of deep places when you put a hook or something sticky on the end.
-A sharp, decent quality, 3-bladed folding knife.
>1 longer pointy blade that can cut like an X-acto knife, 1 medium-sized blade to help cut small stuff, and another with a rounded end to carve shit with. Never know what you need to carve.
-A thicker scraper/spatula.
>Scrape off or, spread on. Thick so you can use it a little more aggressively.
-Medical tape
>cuts or labeling
-Sharpie
>write and get high
-Baggies for parts
>don't lose that shit again dumbass. make sure you write on the baggie.
-A few small, medium, and large zipties.
>put wire bundles back together, temporarily put shit together.
-5 or 6 stainless medium-duty paper clips.
>Harness your inner MacGyver. small hooks to get shit, bend a small shape to help support something, use your imagination idiot!
-A couple small or medium binder clips.
>good for material that has lips to put together.
-A small spool of locking wire.
>cut to length, wrap, then twist.
-Small Lockwire Pliers.
>Do the above quickly.
-A 4"x4" square of thick, flexible rubber sheet.
>you can cut small pieces and shapes with wirecutters to make some shitty gaskets or pipe patches.
-A small spool of thin, tarred nylon twine.
>You and your fookin' rope... wrap shit together.
-A quarter-sized amount of electrical-putty/elephant shit.
>thicker and more useful than chewing gum, or silly putty. Help fish shit out of places, can help patch a leaking pipe. Can help with wire splicing if kept clean.
I've worked in Naval engineering spaces and I frequently found myself in situations where the need to perform a bit of digging and disassembly to diagnose an issue, then jury-rig a solution until I get parts together and a project planned for a permanent fix. I hate hard to reach shit. and fishing out stuff I've dropped.
Substitute an LED headlamp for the flashlight so you don't waste a hand holding one. I have both and use the LED headlamps every day including task lighting in otherwise lit rooms.
Best lockwire is aircraft safety wire. Rolls are cheap and it lasts a long time, being stainless it doesn't corrode and when twisted can be very strong.
A multibit screwdriver with a variety of bits you continue adding to as needed is super handy.
???
you ohm to see if there is a connection. you volt to see if that connection is properly made.
volt drop indicates a heavy load or a long wire. if your Jr. coiled a bunch of wire it can cause a volt drop from all the heat produced from the magnetic induction. (you made a magnet)
> multimeter
Nay. Not multi…
Don’t use it on live circuits. Use Ohms measurements only.
I tell you what I will read that dial there and maybe it will make sense
>°F/C Temprature
there is a special wire attachment to read the temperature based on electrical conductivity. used for testing refrigeration. >µA Mirco-Ampere
used for telecomunication equipment, gives the amperage in terms of 1/100,000 of an amp. >mA Milli-Ampere
used for low voltage equipment, usually LED equipment in terms of 1/1000 of an amp. >10A Amperes at the tens
reads in order of magnitude relative to the tens place. sometimes just called "amps". >"V~" voltage, both in AC and DC >"radar symbol" Resistance, ohms
sometimes referred to as the listening function or locator function, used to find brakes in the line or bad connections. >"H symbol," diode-capacitance
for compactors and diodes, is a pass/fail utility function >Hz, frequncy
more for telecommunication equipment like a clock, sometimes it can help trouble shoot power source problems.
Pic related plus a good 3/8” socket set that goes from like 6mm/1/4” up to ~22mm/1” gets a lot of shit done. Might swap out the 1/4” impact driver for a compact hammer drill depending what I’m doing since so many odd jobs for friends and family requires drilling into masonry.
I got the dual voltage one with the laser pointer because for some reason it was cheaper than the one without the laser pointer. I make my cat chase it sometimes.
The one thing about it, like the 3rd or 4th time I used the thing the beeper stopped and now the light in the tip is the only thing that tells me something is hot. I’m not sure if I pressed and held a button to turn it off or the thing shit out a few weeks after I bought it.
most of them have a silent mode by holding one of the buttons
12 months ago
Bepis
I just grabbed the thing to see if I could do this, and the damn beeper was working. Maybe I held it on for longer last time I used the thing and turned the sound back on.
They sell these 30deg blades that look cool as well for real delicate cutting, the tip of those is more like an exacto knife id you’re peeling backing from stickers or something.
Kek, I post so many pics of new tools and you make that comment on my little go-bag which is full of shit that actually gets used, like the yellow Klein pliers sticking out with the grips being held together by electical tape.
I'm a good ol rebel, that's just what I am, and for these reddit knipex I do not give a damn
12 months ago
Bepis
I bought my Cobras at Home Depot and the Alligators came from Sears. Tempted to go buy the electrician’s pliers from Lowe’s if I can get past the price tag.
12 months ago
Anonymous
Sears? Lmao I guess you bought them before they were cool
12 months ago
Bepis
I bought them after a normie friend who installs telecom shit told me they were good.
Cool, a decent thread, nice.
Hey, Beep. Do you still have that old truck sitting outside your garage?
Who wants to know? Make an offer! I know what I got! Matching numbers truck!
12 months ago
Anonymous
Cool, a decent thread, nice.
Hey, Beep. Do you still have that old truck sitting outside your garage?
You will never be a tradesmen. You have no skill set, you have no job specific equipment, you are a high school dropout twisted by years of working in a Ace Hardware key-cutting department.
I got one, I love mine. Only problem is I try to fit too much shit in it and I was the middle was divided so I could keep squares and straight edges in one side and hammers and prybars in the other.
I used one of these for years when I first started working as a millwright. The guy who mentored me would be like “take these tools and go do X, keep an eye out for Y, and once you get to Z you’re all set”. It’s so convenient to have an empty tool bag or something to be able to just take the exact couple tools you need to the work area, instead of lugging around 50lbs of extra shit. These make the perfect second toolbag.
You won't know what you need until you need it. Get the right tool for the job and you'll have it, try not to cheap out too much, middle price point is usually good quality. the flex tape silicon stuff is pretty great though
Don't fall for it OP. Pick something specific you're good at. EVERYONE is trying to be a "handyman" now. Way to saturated. If you wanna fix toilets, call yourself that. Pick one thing and specialize in it
are you in a large market? I'm in a small town thats "booming" and has like zero competition of competent insured people. I was pretty fricking surprised that was the case when doing market research
You're gonna need this if you plan on working in some areas. They can see that you're not just walking through. Buy the largest you can afford becayse they attack in packs..
what I keep: >2 sets of 12 point metric wrenches from 5.5mm to 21mm, and one of 25 mm (says 1 inch)
I find metric to work on SAE well enough, just have to be gentile. >one adjustable crescent 25mm (medium) >one adjustable crescent 14mm (small) >one set of SAE and Metric, HEX and STAR keys >a claw hammer >a multi-bit set of screw drive parts and drivers for both tiny and large.
I have a kit in a box that also comes with some SAE-hex sockets >a #2 Philips screw driver >a #2 flat head >a big flat head (largest regular size) >measuring tape (6' is enough for most things) >one large and small needle nose >diagonal cutters >side cutters >wire cutters for size 16-10 wire >wire crimps >two channel lock pliers (medium) >Vise grips >a speed level >a micrometer >tin snips >filter wrench (as in oil filter) >quick change razor blade/box cutter >head lamp
supplies: > 100 pack of razors (still haven't used all the ones I bought 10 years ago, keep dry) > a bunch of variable size zip ties > pipe tape (gas and liquid) > paper clips (handful) > tin-wire/labeler wire > two blue size wire nuts (for 8-4 gauge wire) > five red/yellow size wire nuts (for 12-10 size wire) > five gray size wire nuts (for all sizes smaller than 12) > black electric tape > a stick on wall/hanger light (cheap) (2 is also good) (I loose these form time to time from corrosion)
in a separate bag/box >an entire set of HEX-socket in SAE and Metric from 5.5mm to 25mm/1 inch >an entire set of Deep HEX-socket in SAE and Metric from 5.5mm to 21mm >the ratchet-drivers that fit those sockets. >a breaker bar that fits most of the sizes 12mm to 25mm (usually this is a 1/2" driver)
some honorable mentions (from specializations): >pipe wrench (just one size larger than my channel locks) >outlet checker >circuit tester (non-contact) >punch saw >scraper/puddy knife >pencil (carpenter) >sharpie (black) >crayon (red-yellow, commercial) >string line >chalk line >a pipe to use as a breaker bar
>vise grips
This. Often a tool of last resort, you don't need them until you need them. Consider owning multiple pairs and keeping one in the car. No joke.
I don't know about others. but there are times I need to hold two work pieces together, clamp and hold something like a hose clamp, or it can save on grip strength if I need to snatch a work piece that I cannot get a good grip on.
however I agree 99% used like a wrench on bolts that are rounded off or in a difficult place.
Something that might get overlooked are saws. I have 3 different saws in my toolbag.
1. 10" folding pruning saw. Especially nice when working outdoors around overgrown bushes or low hanging tree limbs. Can cut out a work spot instead of just letting the shit slap me in the back of the head all day. Can also cut through studs and beams if I believe them to be free of nails
2. Mini hacksaw. One of those question mark shaped handles that takes a 10" hacksaw blade
3. Recip saw blade handle. Does the same thing as the hacksaw but much smaller for tight places.
I keep one of those little jab saws in mine, pic related. I tend to bring the hacksall or grinder if I know I’m going to be getting deep into something. A compact hack saw doesn’t sound like a bad idea to bring along but I purposely try to keep my go-bag small and I’ll load up a second bag if I know I’ll be doing plumbing or some shit. The tin shears in my go-bag will cut a lot already.
my cheap multimeter does that too though, and I don't trust it. i also like to check for continuity and resistance. occasionally current flow as well, very helpful when chasing a parasitic power drain.
Pic related plus a good 3/8” socket set that goes from like 6mm/1/4” up to ~22mm/1” gets a lot of shit done. Might swap out the 1/4” impact driver for a compact hammer drill depending what I’m doing since so many odd jobs for friends and family requires drilling into masonry.
It’s the Southwire 400A AC/DC clamp meter. It’s quite compact and there’s an Amazon Commercial brand that is exactly the same but blue and goes on sale for really cheap sometimes. I almost snagged one when I saw it on a “Deal of the Day” for like $35 because they’re normally $70-$90 I think. Only complaint is it’s not the best for <1A DC through the clamp.
Wow, these must be on clearance. The bigger clamp meter is like $45. I definitely recommend it for the money, they’re made by whatever OE did the Southwire meters from Lowe’s and those were the better meters they had. DC clamp is nice in lots of situations.
unless you are an electrician most of the time you are only concerned with if something is hot or not. ergo if you assume it is hot, then you can normally work around that. when I am working with an outlet I can... just plug something it like a light bulb. used to actually travel with a night light for that purpose.
>circuit chasing
yeah that would be a reason. had to do that for a F450 dump truck my senile grand father cross wired. unfortunately the everything else broke, but I wired the half melted batteries correctly.
what I keep: >2 sets of 12 point metric wrenches from 5.5mm to 21mm, and one of 25 mm (says 1 inch)
I find metric to work on SAE well enough, just have to be gentile. >one adjustable crescent 25mm (medium) >one adjustable crescent 14mm (small) >one set of SAE and Metric, HEX and STAR keys >a claw hammer >a multi-bit set of screw drive parts and drivers for both tiny and large.
I have a kit in a box that also comes with some SAE-hex sockets >a #2 Philips screw driver >a #2 flat head >a big flat head (largest regular size) >measuring tape (6' is enough for most things) >one large and small needle nose >diagonal cutters >side cutters >wire cutters for size 16-10 wire >wire crimps >two channel lock pliers (medium) >Vise grips >a speed level >a micrometer >tin snips >filter wrench (as in oil filter) >quick change razor blade/box cutter >head lamp
supplies: > 100 pack of razors (still haven't used all the ones I bought 10 years ago, keep dry) > a bunch of variable size zip ties > pipe tape (gas and liquid) > paper clips (handful) > tin-wire/labeler wire > two blue size wire nuts (for 8-4 gauge wire) > five red/yellow size wire nuts (for 12-10 size wire) > five gray size wire nuts (for all sizes smaller than 12) > black electric tape > a stick on wall/hanger light (cheap) (2 is also good) (I loose these form time to time from corrosion)
in a separate bag/box >an entire set of HEX-socket in SAE and Metric from 5.5mm to 25mm/1 inch >an entire set of Deep HEX-socket in SAE and Metric from 5.5mm to 21mm >the ratchet-drivers that fit those sockets. >a breaker bar that fits most of the sizes 12mm to 25mm (usually this is a 1/2" driver)
some honorable mentions (from specializations): >pipe wrench (just one size larger than my channel locks) >outlet checker >circuit tester (non-contact) >punch saw >scraper/puddy knife >pencil (carpenter) >sharpie (black) >crayon (red-yellow, commercial) >string line >chalk line >a pipe to use as a breaker bar
just going to list some brands of tools and give a QRD
>Stanley
makes some cheaper hand tools and really basic equipment for hand use only, they have vacuums too. focus on carpentry and drywall
>Husky
also makes cheaper hand tools, they have some power tools but they are usually air-power based. focus on mechanical/technician hand tools. wider range of tools
>Crescent
cheaper hand tools they make sockets and wrenches
>Dewalt
focus on contractor power tools, lately will make anything that can use their battery.
>Craftsmen
used to be more popular and diverse, literally makes tools for all kinds of craftsmen.
>Kobolt
they made your heavier duty power tools and sockets.
>Klien
they make tools for electricians, everything they make is shock-hazard resistant.
>Milwaukee
is a cult, they also sell tools.
>snap-on
used to have a competitive advantage for their sockets, now they are mostly running on name-branding
>ridged
power tools for carpenters, tried to be what dewalt is but failed.
>ryobi
cheaper/weaker power tools. not for "duty" use.
>hyperTough
a Walmart brand of tools, good for a green horn. covers both power tools and hand tools (like a discount dewalt/stanley)
>Hart
a Walmart brand of tools, good for a green horn. covers both power tools and hand tools (like a discount husky)
No dude. Not any more “shock resistant” than anything from any other company on that list unless you specifically buy the insulated stuff, which you can also buy from other brands on the list.
That list is a compilation of one week you spent at work with your boomer uncle and a bunch of moronic sayings from moronic boomers.
>you like to wire your nut sack directly to the circuit breaker don't you?
most tools are rubber and plastic insulated, which is usually enough to make it shock resistant. I used a pair of husky side cutters for my electrical work even though husky doesn't specifically make them for that. there are some cheaper plastic tools that have no insulation or insulation properties and wood handle tools. Craftsman is on of these, though it depends on the model. the particular kind of plastic is known to have bad insulation properties.
the other part of klien is that their tools are made FOR electricians, not handy men. a handy man can use them but will get more mileage from a similar tool that is cheaper. most handy men don't need a square diver, because an electrician needs it for the circuit breaker.
https://i.imgur.com/9nuZyLy.jpg
>because if you grab onto the shank of the screw driver you can shock yourself.
legal equivalent of the "do not eat" packets found in packaged food.
One of these is “shock resistant”… it’s not the Klein.
Stop trying to explain an incorrect boomer tale. Non-insulated Klein tools are not any more “shock resistant” than the same tool from any other brand unless you have some fricking metal handle screwdriver. If they’re not an insulated and rated tool, you have no idea if the Craftsman or Husky or Klein pliers are going to be any less conductive than any other brand.
If you do have some super high voltage insulation testing machine, post some tests for us.
12 months ago
Anonymous
>you have one in you house. go ahead.
there is legal difference between insulated and shock resistant. some of the metal has to be exposed for these tools to do work. all it means is that as long as you don't grab the metal you can be reasonably assured that there won't receive an arch while working on your electrical stuff.
240volt equipment is different from +600Volt equipment.
https://i.imgur.com/WYAqKCx.jpg
>square drivers only used for circuit breakers
Tell that to the Canadians
Also the blue and grey handle guys are Kleins. Have fun stripping live wires with em.
other than I have... I do recommend the newer ones because they have more girth and can snap screws better. I mean the standard for stripping most wires is to turn the power off, particularly for anything over 240 volt because you tend to use wire that is so large you cut it with a knife.
12 months ago
Kevin Van Dam
Pls post Klein marketing material claiming their non-insulated tools are more “shock resistant” than similar tools from another company.
I’ll be waiting for some type of evidence that Klein dipped pliers are less likely to shock you with live wires than Crescent or DeWalt dipped pliers.
12 months ago
Anonymous
You're right in that vinyl dipped handles from pretty much any manufacturer are able to prevent electricity from flowing through the metal to your hand when working through conventional 120v-480v voltages. Same with screwdrivers.
Unless you're working on actual high voltage (1000v+) equipment while it's hot on a regular basis, or in facilities that don't practice lock-out tag out procedures, insulated tools seem like waste of money. For the rare occasions you have no choice but to work on something live, just make sure your handles are continuous and that you don't touch metal. If you can't handle that, just wrap tape around the metal parts.
12 months ago
Kevin Van Dam
Your point being?
Ever Klein thing I have specifically says not to use it on live circuits. Klein doesn’t do anything beyond the other tool brands when it comes to “shock protection” unless you specifically buy insulated tools.
12 months ago
Anonymous
I was agreeing with you-- unless the manufacturer's cheaping out and using some conductive vinyl alternative, any vinyl handles (In good condition) or acetate handled screwdrivers are as safe to use on live circuits as Klein's products.
They say not to use them on live circuits for liability purposes, as they are less safe than proper insulated tools (More exposed metal, harder to tell if the handles are compromised), but used properly they're fine.
12 months ago
Kevin Van Dam
This is why trips are great! Less confusion!
also working on AC and DC equipment has different standards for safety, mostly being DC is safer in most cases. the Alternating part of a current means it is easier to become the ground due to the electron oscillation.
the other and more practical option is to wear rubber gloves so that you are insulated and not the equipment.
not those silicon mechanic gloves but electrician's rubber gloves. however only linemen normally work using those.
(Linemen refers to electricians who normally work with 600V+ equipment)
that does bring up a thought, Van Bam do you ever work on hybrids or EV cars?
Doesn’t DC tend to melt shit a lot faster when you cause an arc? Like why DC switches last 1/10 as long as AC switches.
> Klein meter
Who really makes that meter? Look like maybe uni-t.
I’m not sure klein actually makes anything, like their screwdrivers used to look like fuller/xecellite before they made them with that overmolding fad.
I don’t know. It had a lot of real similar markings to tons of other mid-range meters, they all have that “Intertek” mark and shit. I can’t find any straight rebadging though like how my Southwire meter from Lowe’s was rebadged as Reed and Amazon Commercial.
12 months ago
Anonymous
As far as I know a DC switch and and AC switch last equally as long. You can use AC equipment for some DC applications. Like if you wire your house on DC to use a solar-battery array, only thing that needs be changed is the appliances.
You might think that because if you run AC on DC appliance(complex electronics) it will 1) not work 2) fry a lot of parts. DC appliances also tend to use volts in the order of 1,2,4,8,12 and 24, AC in the order of 120/240. You can weild with 240V but need 50amps. AC is used for arching a weild. I mean make a tac weilder from an old microwave.
12 months ago
Kevin Van Dam
It’s something about how AC technically goes to 0V 60x a second, so the arc is constantly extinguishing. But DC is straight power, so when you get that arc flipping a switch, it creates a lot more heat.
So if you take an extension cord with some load on the end and plug it into the outlet, you get that spark. You can do it 100 times and you won’t see any signs of a burn on the plug. But if you have that same load hooked up to a car battery and you put the wire on the battery post 100 times, you’re going to see some discoloration eventually from all those arcs.
12 months ago
Anonymous
>contact corrosion
not a problem as far as I know for any electrical equipment AC or DC. Corrosion normally comes from a Bi-metal interface due to metal and semi-conductor properties. usually you get more of a problem with aluminum.
Arcing with DC appears to be more of a failure to properly insulate contact points and to properly engage them. switches are designed to have a crisp and firm snap to prevent arcing all together. if you are thinking of contact erosion on a battery, that has more to do with ionization through the environment (dust and moisture) than it does with arcing on contact. doing that to a car battery is generally a bad idea because the terminals on a battery are not designed as a contact-switch, the battery is also designed with a capability for a large draw on amperage, as I said before you need about 50 amps to arc wield on AC, a car battery can draw an instantaneous amperage of 500 amps. if you have have a resistor or regulator like a fuse or contact dis-connector, if the amperage ever goes above that it will blow. that is why you have fuses in your car, it is a way to prevent an overflow of amperage as it is drawn from your vehicle.
most DC power sources are drawn from a battery reserve, or else are drawn from an AC supply and built on either a battery or capacitor. such is the great barrier, AC =1/2 DC or atleast that used to be true I think we managed a 80% gain by using some semiconductor tomfoolery to get both pus and pull currents out of one phase of AC.
just some basic rules: >current occurs by the function of resistance and voltage >all batteries are capacitors, even if they don't do a very good job of it. >a capacitor can instantaneously release all of its energy limited only by resistance. >capacitors function almost entirely based on the properties of resistance. >air is a good insulator until it isn't >you are a better conductor than air
12 months ago
Anonymous
>a crisp and firm snap to prevent arcing all together.
good lord anon go read at least the first paragraph about inductors before you post any more expert electrical advice.
12 months ago
Kevin Van Dam
>t. Knows Electricity and will prove it to you with rambling longposts
I’m not talking about welding and ionization. I’m talking about how DC is harder on switches than AC.
1 volt/amp in DC is worth more power than 1 volt/amp in AC, but DC power expends itself faster over a distance than AC. which is the trade off we made when we chose an AC power grid over a DC power grid.
12 months ago
Anonymous
>but DC power expends itself faster over a distance than AC.
wat?
The biggest feature that is why we're using an AC grid is the easy voltage transformation using transformers compared to the conventional difficulty with transforming DC voltages. Apparently modern solid state devices make DC power transmission more workable, and several large HVDC projects have been rolled out around the globe.
12 months ago
Anonymous
Yes, there is a new hvdc cable running very close to my house.
It will be harder to “tap” it than it was with the previous AC cable.
Or, maybe no. Know what I mean?
12 months ago
Anonymous
>>but DC power expends itself faster over a distance than AC.
Yes that is the exact reason Nicola Tesla purposed and established AC energy and equipment. the voltage transformation is a just a side effect. an AC wire can transfer energy at any voltage further than a DC wire, faster. this is because an AC current is using magnetic properties to push and pull electrons rather than a DC which tries to push electrons through a wire. this isn't a problem in an order of magnitude of feet or yards, but is in kilometers and miles. the other thing is we have found a way to transfer AC energy and DC energy without loosing a lot of energy and without having a frequency problem.
the idea is that we can generate energy in DC, store it in DC, then get it to move through AC and arrive to your house in AC, which you can then use as AC or DC. those High voltage DC lines are probably for moving energy from a generator to a battery storage facility. you loose energy when you convert DC to AC or AC to DC, so making a HVDC can work over a space but has its limits and you loose a lot of DC energy when you up or down scale the voltage. so no you aren't able to tap free energy like a ghetto off of a transformer.
>DC melts switches
It's just that AC current cuts some slack and allows some period for an arc to extinguish, while DC will maintain it and only allow extinction by physical separation or with an arc mitigation medium like oil or inert gas.
As far as I know a DC switch and and AC switch last equally as long. You can use AC equipment for some DC applications. Like if you wire your house on DC to use a solar-battery array, only thing that needs be changed is the appliances.
You might think that because if you run AC on DC appliance(complex electronics) it will 1) not work 2) fry a lot of parts. DC appliances also tend to use volts in the order of 1,2,4,8,12 and 24, AC in the order of 120/240. You can weild with 240V but need 50amps. AC is used for arching a weild. I mean make a tac weilder from an old microwave.
Except for the welding part, everything you wrote in that post is garbage. A lot of small appliances use AC voltages like 9VAC, 12VAC, 24VAC and such.
12 months ago
Anonymous
just so ppl know I was not the one to reply to your post but think all three of us are in agreement.
12 months ago
Anonymous
also working on AC and DC equipment has different standards for safety, mostly being DC is safer in most cases. the Alternating part of a current means it is easier to become the ground due to the electron oscillation.
the other and more practical option is to wear rubber gloves so that you are insulated and not the equipment.
not those silicon mechanic gloves but electrician's rubber gloves. however only linemen normally work using those.
(Linemen refers to electricians who normally work with 600V+ equipment)
that does bring up a thought, Van Bam do you ever work on hybrids or EV cars?
12 months ago
Anonymous
> Klein meter
Who really makes that meter? Look like maybe uni-t.
I’m not sure klein actually makes anything, like their screwdrivers used to look like fuller/xecellite before they made them with that overmolding fad.
>square drivers only used for circuit breakers
Tell that to the Canadians
Also the blue and grey handle guys are Kleins. Have fun stripping live wires with em.
11 months ago
Anonymous
I used a square drive like 4 days ago and I've only lived on my own for about a month. Not Canadian.
11 months ago
Anonymous
They're common in the US for deck and pocket screws, and I fricking hate them, Torx is better.
11 months ago
Anonymous
Also electrical panels.
11 months ago
Anonymous
My use was actually my shed. I don't understand the hate for them except it needs a special tool though. Torx does too. So what?
11 months ago
Anonymous
I have hands on experience with them constantly stripping, both going in and out, so I developed a personal hate for it.
11 months ago
Bepis
I prefer Torx as well. Plus when you’re trying to get a bit in a screw, torx is +/-30deg to get it in the hole, square and phillips are +/-45deg and that little difference gives you a better shot of seating the driver bit in the screw with a small turn of the wrist.
One of these is “shock resistant”… it’s not the Klein.
Stop trying to explain an incorrect boomer tale. Non-insulated Klein tools are not any more “shock resistant” than the same tool from any other brand unless you have some fricking metal handle screwdriver. If they’re not an insulated and rated tool, you have no idea if the Craftsman or Husky or Klein pliers are going to be any less conductive than any other brand.
If you do have some super high voltage insulation testing machine, post some tests for us.
>shock-resistant
Unless you're dealing with medium- or higher voltage, I would not be afraid of a plastic handle becoming conductive. What is scarier is how an uninsulated screwdriver's shaft could rub against parts of a frame or a chassis while the tip is contacting an energized part: 200A slow-blow fuse melts a few inches away from your face.
>200A slow-blow fuse melts a few inches away from your face.
when working in that range I would leave it to linemen. for household work a normal screwdriver is enough.
>DC melts switches
It's just that AC current cuts some slack and allows some period for an arc to extinguish, while DC will maintain it and only allow extinction by physical separation or with an arc mitigation medium like oil or inert gas.
[...]
Except for the welding part, everything you wrote in that post is garbage. A lot of small appliances use AC voltages like 9VAC, 12VAC, 24VAC and such.
>A lot of small appliances use AC voltages like 9V, 12V, 24V and such.
low voltage, most of the time anything goes below 120V unless it is a dimmer or something I assume the appliance wants a 120V input and will adjust internally. other wise it sounds like a DC compenent that will have some form of converter, electronic that use computing use this a lot, like microphones, projectors, and LED lighting.
most any motor based electronic will want an AC charge and will operate at 120/240V, particularly heating elements, fans, HVAC, and electric ovens.
Microwaves, LED lights, computers, printers, voice command speaker systems, speakers systems, and TVs may appear to be AC but are actually DC.
the only time I had to install a transformer for 120V to 24V was for a dimmer switch.
commercial utility services like phone lines, security/CCTV, and fire alarms all use DC at 24V
My dad's shit at any technical skill
My granddad was an machinist before ww2
i am always asked by dad to help with problems from car, lawnmower, phone, tv, computer, fricking 12thumbs obese boomer
not really a good idea, some jobs require special tools, this is more of a general use.
>laser level >pipe wrench set >pry-bar set >complete wire stripper/cutter set >MC cutters >pipe threading set/die-cutter set >Tap set >complete impact and drill set >power tool collections >power tool specialty parts >dermal/rotary tool >chisel set >saws >more saws >planer >router >clamp set >complete tin snip set >file set
I mean a lot of these things are handy man generalist tools, but you probably won't use them because you are more likely to just replace a part rather than modify a tool or part.
When was the last time you flew on a plane? I had an 8mm allen key in my pocket one time and the Shae’ntae at the metal detector told me it could be used as a weapon.
I’m not walking through TSA with a $100+ Leatherman, and I’m not trying to repair shit on the flight.
This is a thread about tool bags for a handyman, not a TSA-prohibited EDC thread.
What, no Leatherman Chads in here?! Smh, sometimes a Leatherman is all you need. Preferably a Surge/ Wave.
One of the biggest surprises I've had while doing aircraft maintenance has been seeing leathermans being legitimately used on the line. It's a very niche application though, quick turnovers where no real maintenance can be done. Everyone carries one, but I personally refuse to get one on principle, I just carry actual pliers, knife, and bit driver separately in edc pouch.
I think something like a wave is definitely worth carrying in one's pocket because it will save weight, unless you truly need full strength versions of the tools that the multitool includes. Of course, the multitool needs to not be cheap trash.
>Milwaukee Tool® M18 Fuel Magnetic Drill kit with M18, 12 Amp-hour batteries >Airsoft all metal Beretta 92FS >Black spray paint >Several large reinforced duffle bag capable of holding lots of weight >Ski mask >Milwaukee Tool® M12 heated black hoodie >Work van capable of fast and discrete transit
All an upstanding, honest tradesman with self discipline and responsibility could need!
If this is not in your pocket at all times, you're fricking up. Pliers, cutters, wire stripper, hammer, crimper, all in one. Made to last. This is your best friend.
A few feet of stiff "hanger" wire.
Cheap as hell and has gotten me out of a lot of tricky situations. Unclogging drains, fishing out fallen parts, breaking into cars, pulling wiring through walls, ECT.
I carry a small 50 cents flathead tester screwdriver sharpened on a side. Uses: >tester >flat/philips screws >punch/bore >zip tie retrieval >cutter >marker >chisel >wire bender >self defense >can opener >snake stabber
picrel is my toolbox
This is what I think you need. You can do 95% of stuff with this set up.
Screwdriver set
Mini screwdriver set
4-18mm ratchet spanners
6 &12 inch shifters
Claw hammer
Pliers
Multi grips
Side cutters/ snips
Cold chisel
Tape measure
Utility knife
12 inch spirit level
Small pry bar
Cordless driver
Cordless drill
Drill bit set
Driver bit set
some essential hand tools you may have overlooked that I'd suggest putting in a bag. This is by no means a complete list, just what I suggest off the top of my head as a carpenter. Many essentials are too big for your bag (level set, table saw, miter saw, power tools etc), so keep in mind you will need to get more bags/boxes to store your tools. >chalk line (red or blue; I like Tajima) >soft-face hammer (I like Vaughan's) >rip claw hammer >spring tools combo kit (nail set & hinge pin) >wrecking knife/chisel (I like Bahco's) >12" combination square >speed Square >measuring tape >Scribe tool (I like the accuscribe pro or razor scribe) >10oz caulk gun (I like Tajima) >torpedo level (I like the Stabila 16" magnetic) >12in trigger clamp >6"+ face clamp >small block plane >string line (and accompanying line level) >sanding blocks (make an 80 grit & 120 grit) >bastard files (half-round & flat) >pocket hole jig (Kreg) >utility knife >small block plane >vice grips >multi screwdriver >laser level (squaring & don't cheap out) >allen key set >adjustable wrenches >channellock pliers >diagonal angle cutters >tin snips >needle nose pliers >6" putty knife >15-in-1 painters tool (Husky) >safety glasses >ear plugs >gloves >toolbelt or vest >headlamp
Small list of supplies >notepad >pencils (mechanical & carpenters) >sharpie >paint marker (to mark property) >wood glue >CA glue >plumbers tape >electrical tape >masking tape >fastener organizer (stock with various nails, screws, nuts, bolts, etc.) >pneumatic tool oil >first aid kit (small)
The smaller bag on the left has my sockets and bit sets in it. 1/4" shallow, 3/8" shallow + deep, then the harbor freight icon bit ratchet set + an Irwin telescoping bit driver for when I need some mf reach. Side pocket has wobble extensions for both sizes.
Taking the shit out and laying it out like this made me realize I didn't need the panel removal tool or the plastic prybars in there. I bought them a few months back to help a friend install a stereo in a side by side and just tossed them in the bag afterwards. They can sit in a tool drawer until I need them again
Actually maybe twice a month thinking about it. 90% of the time I just use the socket/bit bag + cobra knock offs and that resolves whatever I'm dealing with. Also the hart screwdrivers and chisel are new, my walmart had a bunch of shit on clearance and I couldn't resist a set of demolition screwdrivers for $7. I replaced my old craftsman screwdrivers with them, theyve been lightly used like twice, the chisel has not been used yet.
Actually maybe twice a month thinking about it. 90% of the time I just use the socket/bit bag + cobra knock offs and that resolves whatever I'm dealing with. Also the hart screwdrivers and chisel are new, my walmart had a bunch of shit on clearance and I couldn't resist a set of demolition screwdrivers for $7. I replaced my old craftsman screwdrivers with them, theyve been lightly used like twice, the chisel has not been used yet.
You aren't handy to anyone, you haven't even haned your own tools yet my guy >factory clean striking tools >perfect tape measure with unscuffed label >unopened package of razor blades >no debris or dust on a single handle, gloves or tool bag >absence of fasteners, no type of square,lack of layout tools >unused adhesive , tape itching to come off the carabiner
I'm not even convinced that pencil has been used let alone from the pic I can't even confirm with my eyes that it's even been sharpened for first time use yet, the unopened pack of razors builds that case for me.
The smaller bag on the left has my sockets and bit sets in it. 1/4" shallow, 3/8" shallow + deep, then the harbor freight icon bit ratchet set + an Irwin telescoping bit driver for when I need some mf reach. Side pocket has wobble extensions for both sizes.
Taking the shit out and laying it out like this made me realize I didn't need the panel removal tool or the plastic prybars in there. I bought them a few months back to help a friend install a stereo in a side by side and just tossed them in the bag afterwards. They can sit in a tool drawer until I need them again
Kek. At least my sawzall blades look like they ran through one or twi pieces of wood.
That’s a recent Walmart shopping spree too because none of that Hart shit even existed a couple years ago.
[...]
Kek. At least my sawzall blades look like they ran through one or twi pieces of wood.
That’s a recent Walmart shopping spree too because none of that Hart shit even existed a couple years ago.
Do u fricking animals not believe in cleaning your tools? I keep a bucket of gojo wipes with me and clean everything I used before I put them up. As a kid my dad never cleaned his shit and opening his toolbox and catching the smell of fermented grease and diesel coming out of the box would make me fricking wretch. I'm not letting dirty tools go into my bag and rub off on the fabric and all the other tools. Also it's low quality picture, many of the items have blemishes that just aren't visible in the pic. Product of holding the phone up and away to get everything in the shot then resizing it to post on PrepHole. Here's a close up of the tape measure, since I leave it clipped outside the bag and it's easy to grab.
>not_a_hand-me-down.jpg
Still not buying the handyman larp, just admit you're a dirty PrepHoleer.
It's all just too clean for any real use and you're missing some very basic tools for even basic home maintenance let alone anyone to call to fix something. No claw hammer, drill/driver, biggest level is a torpedo, again no square, no putty knives, no caulk gun, no sandpaper, those saws it just doesn't add up.
11 months ago
Bepis
Where is his all purpose Craftsman pry bar with chips and dents on the back of the handle?
11 months ago
Bepis
>not_a_hand-me-down.jpg
Still not buying the handyman larp, just admit you're a dirty PrepHoleer.
It's all just too clean for any real use and you're missing some very basic tools for even basic home maintenance let alone anyone to call to fix something. No claw hammer, drill/driver, biggest level is a torpedo, again no square, no putty knives, no caulk gun, no sandpaper, those saws it just doesn't add up.
There’s the other one that got chiseled a little too raw
11 months ago
Anonymous
>Still not buying the handyman larp, just admit you're a dirty PrepHoleer.
When the frick did I ever claim to be a professional? Yes I'm a diy'er, I am the personal handyman of friends and family
And for everything you're b***hing I don't have, I have all that shit at home in my garage. The bag is a reactive kit, for when something is suddenly fricked and needs to be unfricked. It's not a comprehensive solution pack I'm going to be remodeling peoples' kitchens with man. When I have projects with advance notice and time to plan and gather materials, yeah I've got all of that shit at home! The bag is mostly for surprises or short notice shit.
11 months ago
Anonymous
And I do have a combination square in there, it was just out of frame on the bottom right next to the mini hacksaw
-An SAE and Metric ratchet set with extensions
-A short and long pair of needle nose plier
-Wire cutters
-A standard size pair of regular pliers
-A adjustable wrench
-Set of Allen keys
-Small pry bar
-Small mallet or hammer
-1 large and 1 small Philips and 1 large and 1 small flathead screwdriver
-Small adjustable flashlight
-Pen and notepad
-A few Band-Aids and a few alcohol wipes
-Bandana or small rag
Oh and a pair of channel locks
OH AND TAPE! A good brand of electrical tape, some multi-surface glue. Also maybe some marine putty, that shit is like gold and is great for temp. pipe patches
FRICK I forgot tape measurer and a mini level, also a carpenters pencil
I would also add:
-A few small cold punches and chisels.
>helps with removing rivets, shitty fasteners, etc.
-A scribe, something longish and double-ended. One end hooked.
>to poke at paint or crud in order to get a driver into a screw head
-A cheapass thick-leaded pencil like a 0.9mm Bic.
>thick enough to write with angry hands, can also be used to clean the contact point for carbon brushes on an electric motor.
-An telescoping and positionable magnet.
>To fish out the shit you dropped dumbass.
The following wrenches:
-Engineer's wrenches with the following pair ups: 9/16" and 1/2", and 11/16" and 3/4", plus whatever metric equivalents. Probably a 8mm and 10mm, and whatever else eurogays use for hydraulic or heavy use shit.
>There are some VERY commonly used sizes for most fasteners, you don't need a whole wrench roll. Couple these with your 8" or 10" Crescent wrench and you'll open most shit.
-A handful of long combination wrenches with the more diminutive sizes like 5/16, 1/4, etc.
>This will allow you to get to hard to adjust set-screws and small assemblies in tight spaces
-A decent medium use tape measure.
>Measure shit that's longer than your body length. Can also fish shit out of deep places when you put a hook or something sticky on the end.
-A sharp, decent quality, 3-bladed folding knife.
>1 longer pointy blade that can cut like an X-acto knife, 1 medium-sized blade to help cut small stuff, and another with a rounded end to carve shit with. Never know what you need to carve.
-A thicker scraper/spatula.
>Scrape off or, spread on. Thick so you can use it a little more aggressively.
-Medical tape
>cuts or labeling
-Sharpie
>write and get high
-Baggies for parts
>don't lose that shit again dumbass. make sure you write on the baggie.
-A few small, medium, and large zipties.
>put wire bundles back together, temporarily put shit together.
-5 or 6 stainless medium-duty paper clips.
>Harness your inner MacGyver. small hooks to get shit, bend a small shape to help support something, use your imagination idiot!
-A couple small or medium binder clips.
>good for material that has lips to put together.
-A small spool of locking wire.
>cut to length, wrap, then twist.
-Small Lockwire Pliers.
>Do the above quickly.
-A 4"x4" square of thick, flexible rubber sheet.
>you can cut small pieces and shapes with wirecutters to make some shitty gaskets or pipe patches.
-A small spool of thin, tarred nylon twine.
>You and your fookin' rope... wrap shit together.
-A quarter-sized amount of electrical-putty/elephant shit.
>thicker and more useful than chewing gum, or silly putty. Help fish shit out of places, can help patch a leaking pipe. Can help with wire splicing if kept clean.
I've worked in Naval engineering spaces and I frequently found myself in situations where the need to perform a bit of digging and disassembly to diagnose an issue, then jury-rig a solution until I get parts together and a project planned for a permanent fix. I hate hard to reach shit. and fishing out stuff I've dropped.
>I've worked in Naval engineering spaces
>jury-rig a solution
checks out
I wok in a Naval shipyard and you aren't supposed to jurt rig anything, what the frick
Navy shit is supposed to work and work in combat.
Civilian shit is flagged in Outer Bungholia and other than not sinking near civilization doesn't matter much.
Substitute an LED headlamp for the flashlight so you don't waste a hand holding one. I have both and use the LED headlamps every day including task lighting in otherwise lit rooms.
Best lockwire is aircraft safety wire. Rolls are cheap and it lasts a long time, being stainless it doesn't corrode and when twisted can be very strong.
A multibit screwdriver with a variety of bits you continue adding to as needed is super handy.
Electrical multimeter.
> multimeter
Nay. Not multi…
Don’t use it on live circuits. Use Ohms measurements only.
???
you ohm to see if there is a connection. you volt to see if that connection is properly made.
volt drop indicates a heavy load or a long wire. if your Jr. coiled a bunch of wire it can cause a volt drop from all the heat produced from the magnetic induction. (you made a magnet)
I tell you what I will read that dial there and maybe it will make sense
>°F/C Temprature
there is a special wire attachment to read the temperature based on electrical conductivity. used for testing refrigeration.
>µA Mirco-Ampere
used for telecomunication equipment, gives the amperage in terms of 1/100,000 of an amp.
>mA Milli-Ampere
used for low voltage equipment, usually LED equipment in terms of 1/1000 of an amp.
>10A Amperes at the tens
reads in order of magnitude relative to the tens place. sometimes just called "amps".
>"V~" voltage, both in AC and DC
>"radar symbol" Resistance, ohms
sometimes referred to as the listening function or locator function, used to find brakes in the line or bad connections.
>"H symbol," diode-capacitance
for compactors and diodes, is a pass/fail utility function
>Hz, frequncy
more for telecommunication equipment like a clock, sometimes it can help trouble shoot power source problems.
Pic related plus a good 3/8” socket set that goes from like 6mm/1/4” up to ~22mm/1” gets a lot of shit done. Might swap out the 1/4” impact driver for a compact hammer drill depending what I’m doing since so many odd jobs for friends and family requires drilling into masonry.
> interesting looking thing
Olfa product I don’t have? What is that thang?
I've never seen that model but I'll bet you $20 it's a klein non contact voltage tester or a direct rip off of one
This
Also you need to check out JT Cutter if you want to compliment the Olfas. I got one of their aluminum body ones and it’s frickin sweet.
+1 on this.
In the go-bag, they come in handy as a clamp like 70% of the time I grab them.
Knew it, the yellow is instantly recognizable, I've been using this one for 10+ years.
I got the dual voltage one with the laser pointer because for some reason it was cheaper than the one without the laser pointer. I make my cat chase it sometimes.
The one thing about it, like the 3rd or 4th time I used the thing the beeper stopped and now the light in the tip is the only thing that tells me something is hot. I’m not sure if I pressed and held a button to turn it off or the thing shit out a few weeks after I bought it.
most of them have a silent mode by holding one of the buttons
I just grabbed the thing to see if I could do this, and the damn beeper was working. Maybe I held it on for longer last time I used the thing and turned the sound back on.
Just got one of those from chyna for a couple bucks; it works
9mm JT next to the Olfas…
They sell these 30deg blades that look cool as well for real delicate cutting, the tip of those is more like an exacto knife id you’re peeling backing from stickers or something.
NT Cutter
Lo siento to the Jappos
23g on the Olfa, 35.4g on the NT
wow, look how clean those tools are
larpers need not apply
Kek, I post so many pics of new tools and you make that comment on my little go-bag which is full of shit that actually gets used, like the yellow Klein pliers sticking out with the grips being held together by electical tape.
Try harder.
Never trusted the gearqueers on jobsites with all the reddit approved tools
I don’t trust #TOOLREBELS either
I'm a good ol rebel, that's just what I am, and for these reddit knipex I do not give a damn
I bought my Cobras at Home Depot and the Alligators came from Sears. Tempted to go buy the electrician’s pliers from Lowe’s if I can get past the price tag.
Sears? Lmao I guess you bought them before they were cool
I bought them after a normie friend who installs telecom shit told me they were good.
Who wants to know? Make an offer! I know what I got! Matching numbers truck!
Cool, a decent thread, nice.
Hey, Beep. Do you still have that old truck sitting outside your garage?
I clean my tools after use, your comments not very well thought out.
But also my woodworking stuff doesn’t get fricking covered in grease because I don’t use a router on brakes.
Box knife and spare blades (good for scraping off paint, glue, etc.)
Set of small screw drivers for electronics
a hammer, a screwdriver, a pair of needle nose, a spanner and some tape
Transitioning handymen will never have the proper tools.
You will never be a tradesmen. You have no skill set, you have no job specific equipment, you are a high school dropout twisted by years of working in a Ace Hardware key-cutting department.
Dildo
Get a bucket caddy. Cheap and handy.
I got one, I love mine. Only problem is I try to fit too much shit in it and I was the middle was divided so I could keep squares and straight edges in one side and hammers and prybars in the other.
Get the seven gallon etc floor wax buckets for best strength. Drill for a rope sling like welders do to carry hands-free.
I used one of these for years when I first started working as a millwright. The guy who mentored me would be like “take these tools and go do X, keep an eye out for Y, and once you get to Z you’re all set”. It’s so convenient to have an empty tool bag or something to be able to just take the exact couple tools you need to the work area, instead of lugging around 50lbs of extra shit. These make the perfect second toolbag.
You won't know what you need until you need it. Get the right tool for the job and you'll have it, try not to cheap out too much, middle price point is usually good quality. the flex tape silicon stuff is pretty great though
Don't fall for it OP. Pick something specific you're good at. EVERYONE is trying to be a "handyman" now. Way to saturated. If you wanna fix toilets, call yourself that. Pick one thing and specialize in it
are you in a large market? I'm in a small town thats "booming" and has like zero competition of competent insured people. I was pretty fricking surprised that was the case when doing market research
You're gonna need this if you plan on working in some areas. They can see that you're not just walking through. Buy the largest you can afford becayse they attack in packs..
very necessary in urban environments, too
He’s talking about Black folk anon..
>98% other ingredients
deebly_goncerned.jpg
Rifle
And condoms.
one of these
Regular vice grips yes
And probably also some needle nose vice grips
no those exact ones.
They Belong in a Museum!
>vise grips
This. Often a tool of last resort, you don't need them until you need them. Consider owning multiple pairs and keeping one in the car. No joke.
I don't know about others. but there are times I need to hold two work pieces together, clamp and hold something like a hose clamp, or it can save on grip strength if I need to snatch a work piece that I cannot get a good grip on.
however I agree 99% used like a wrench on bolts that are rounded off or in a difficult place.
roll pin punches
I discover an additional use of them today. Deeply set brad nail you can't pull? Just punch it all the way in.
Nail setters exist too.
I don't think the average person has a need for a set of pin punches, though. More of a keep in your shop toolbox kind of thing.
I do keep one punch and a nailset in my bag though
I have a general purpose bag, a plumbing bag and an electrical bag. The plumbing bag is actually a home depot bucket. Just like a real plumber.
Fleshlight
Get the steel one. These plastic ones wear out after about 10 buttholes.
What does it do?
It's the forbidden buttplug. You shove it up a deer's ass and pull their whole digestive system out. Very kinky.
>forbidden buttplug
hands
Is there anything that can beat this yet?
New to all this, what kind of toolbox is that?
One of these
looks perfect for storing your dildos
>Dildos on my mind
Whatever plugs your butt...
Something that might get overlooked are saws. I have 3 different saws in my toolbag.
1. 10" folding pruning saw. Especially nice when working outdoors around overgrown bushes or low hanging tree limbs. Can cut out a work spot instead of just letting the shit slap me in the back of the head all day. Can also cut through studs and beams if I believe them to be free of nails
2. Mini hacksaw. One of those question mark shaped handles that takes a 10" hacksaw blade
3. Recip saw blade handle. Does the same thing as the hacksaw but much smaller for tight places.
I keep one of those little jab saws in mine, pic related. I tend to bring the hacksall or grinder if I know I’m going to be getting deep into something. A compact hack saw doesn’t sound like a bad idea to bring along but I purposely try to keep my go-bag small and I’ll load up a second bag if I know I’ll be doing plumbing or some shit. The tin shears in my go-bag will cut a lot already.
>Pic related
4u
Why has no one mentioned cheap multimeters?
Don't you gays use these lying sticks?
my cheap multimeter does that too though, and I don't trust it. i also like to check for continuity and resistance. occasionally current flow as well, very helpful when chasing a parasitic power drain.
I have both in here
It’s the Southwire 400A AC/DC clamp meter. It’s quite compact and there’s an Amazon Commercial brand that is exactly the same but blue and goes on sale for really cheap sometimes. I almost snagged one when I saw it on a “Deal of the Day” for like $35 because they’re normally $70-$90 I think. Only complaint is it’s not the best for <1A DC through the clamp.
Wow, these must be on clearance. The bigger clamp meter is like $45. I definitely recommend it for the money, they’re made by whatever OE did the Southwire meters from Lowe’s and those were the better meters they had. DC clamp is nice in lots of situations.
Dammit
Anyway pic related is quite small physically and will fit in your back pocket. The Uni-T clamp I got is better at low current DC, but huge.
unless you are an electrician most of the time you are only concerned with if something is hot or not. ergo if you assume it is hot, then you can normally work around that. when I am working with an outlet I can... just plug something it like a light bulb. used to actually travel with a night light for that purpose.
I use the frick out of my multimeter in the go-bag. A night light won’t help me diagnose no-start conditions on vehicles or lights out on a trailer.
I’m no sparky, but I learned how to use a multimeter and now it’s one of my most commonly used tools.
>circuit chasing
yeah that would be a reason. had to do that for a F450 dump truck my senile grand father cross wired. unfortunately the everything else broke, but I wired the half melted batteries correctly.
>was a sparky for a while.
Your night light lies when you do not have neutral.
true unless you are just hot checking, no neutral means no light. night light doesn't go to ground. so I would never know if there was a ground fault.
allen key set from HF
what I keep:
>2 sets of 12 point metric wrenches from 5.5mm to 21mm, and one of 25 mm (says 1 inch)
I find metric to work on SAE well enough, just have to be gentile.
>one adjustable crescent 25mm (medium)
>one adjustable crescent 14mm (small)
>one set of SAE and Metric, HEX and STAR keys
>a claw hammer
>a multi-bit set of screw drive parts and drivers for both tiny and large.
I have a kit in a box that also comes with some SAE-hex sockets
>a #2 Philips screw driver
>a #2 flat head
>a big flat head (largest regular size)
>measuring tape (6' is enough for most things)
>one large and small needle nose
>diagonal cutters
>side cutters
>wire cutters for size 16-10 wire
>wire crimps
>two channel lock pliers (medium)
>Vise grips
>a speed level
>a micrometer
>tin snips
>filter wrench (as in oil filter)
>quick change razor blade/box cutter
>head lamp
supplies:
> 100 pack of razors (still haven't used all the ones I bought 10 years ago, keep dry)
> a bunch of variable size zip ties
> pipe tape (gas and liquid)
> paper clips (handful)
> tin-wire/labeler wire
> two blue size wire nuts (for 8-4 gauge wire)
> five red/yellow size wire nuts (for 12-10 size wire)
> five gray size wire nuts (for all sizes smaller than 12)
> black electric tape
> a stick on wall/hanger light (cheap) (2 is also good) (I loose these form time to time from corrosion)
in a separate bag/box
>an entire set of HEX-socket in SAE and Metric from 5.5mm to 25mm/1 inch
>an entire set of Deep HEX-socket in SAE and Metric from 5.5mm to 21mm
>the ratchet-drivers that fit those sockets.
>a breaker bar that fits most of the sizes 12mm to 25mm (usually this is a 1/2" driver)
some honorable mentions (from specializations):
>pipe wrench (just one size larger than my channel locks)
>outlet checker
>circuit tester (non-contact)
>punch saw
>scraper/puddy knife
>pencil (carpenter)
>sharpie (black)
>crayon (red-yellow, commercial)
>string line
>chalk line
>a pipe to use as a breaker bar
just going to list some brands of tools and give a QRD
>Stanley
makes some cheaper hand tools and really basic equipment for hand use only, they have vacuums too. focus on carpentry and drywall
>Husky
also makes cheaper hand tools, they have some power tools but they are usually air-power based. focus on mechanical/technician hand tools. wider range of tools
>Crescent
cheaper hand tools they make sockets and wrenches
>Dewalt
focus on contractor power tools, lately will make anything that can use their battery.
>Craftsmen
used to be more popular and diverse, literally makes tools for all kinds of craftsmen.
>Kobolt
they made your heavier duty power tools and sockets.
>Klien
they make tools for electricians, everything they make is shock-hazard resistant.
>Milwaukee
is a cult, they also sell tools.
>snap-on
used to have a competitive advantage for their sockets, now they are mostly running on name-branding
>ridged
power tools for carpenters, tried to be what dewalt is but failed.
>ryobi
cheaper/weaker power tools. not for "duty" use.
>hyperTough
a Walmart brand of tools, good for a green horn. covers both power tools and hand tools (like a discount dewalt/stanley)
>Hart
a Walmart brand of tools, good for a green horn. covers both power tools and hand tools (like a discount husky)
>92% bullshit
Being able to spell “Craftsman” would help.
Go ahead and stick that black and yellow Klein screwdriver in an outlet and tell me how shock resistant it is…
>I am fine, the screwdriver however is on fire.
shock-RESISTANT
No dude. Not any more “shock resistant” than anything from any other company on that list unless you specifically buy the insulated stuff, which you can also buy from other brands on the list.
That list is a compilation of one week you spent at work with your boomer uncle and a bunch of moronic sayings from moronic boomers.
>you like to wire your nut sack directly to the circuit breaker don't you?
most tools are rubber and plastic insulated, which is usually enough to make it shock resistant. I used a pair of husky side cutters for my electrical work even though husky doesn't specifically make them for that. there are some cheaper plastic tools that have no insulation or insulation properties and wood handle tools. Craftsman is on of these, though it depends on the model. the particular kind of plastic is known to have bad insulation properties.
the other part of klien is that their tools are made FOR electricians, not handy men. a handy man can use them but will get more mileage from a similar tool that is cheaper. most handy men don't need a square diver, because an electrician needs it for the circuit breaker.
>because if you grab onto the shank of the screw driver you can shock yourself.
legal equivalent of the "do not eat" packets found in packaged food.
One of these is “shock resistant”… it’s not the Klein.
Stop trying to explain an incorrect boomer tale. Non-insulated Klein tools are not any more “shock resistant” than the same tool from any other brand unless you have some fricking metal handle screwdriver. If they’re not an insulated and rated tool, you have no idea if the Craftsman or Husky or Klein pliers are going to be any less conductive than any other brand.
If you do have some super high voltage insulation testing machine, post some tests for us.
>you have one in you house. go ahead.
there is legal difference between insulated and shock resistant. some of the metal has to be exposed for these tools to do work. all it means is that as long as you don't grab the metal you can be reasonably assured that there won't receive an arch while working on your electrical stuff.
240volt equipment is different from +600Volt equipment.
other than I have... I do recommend the newer ones because they have more girth and can snap screws better. I mean the standard for stripping most wires is to turn the power off, particularly for anything over 240 volt because you tend to use wire that is so large you cut it with a knife.
Pls post Klein marketing material claiming their non-insulated tools are more “shock resistant” than similar tools from another company.
I’ll be waiting for some type of evidence that Klein dipped pliers are less likely to shock you with live wires than Crescent or DeWalt dipped pliers.
You're right in that vinyl dipped handles from pretty much any manufacturer are able to prevent electricity from flowing through the metal to your hand when working through conventional 120v-480v voltages. Same with screwdrivers.
Unless you're working on actual high voltage (1000v+) equipment while it's hot on a regular basis, or in facilities that don't practice lock-out tag out procedures, insulated tools seem like waste of money. For the rare occasions you have no choice but to work on something live, just make sure your handles are continuous and that you don't touch metal. If you can't handle that, just wrap tape around the metal parts.
Your point being?
Ever Klein thing I have specifically says not to use it on live circuits. Klein doesn’t do anything beyond the other tool brands when it comes to “shock protection” unless you specifically buy insulated tools.
I was agreeing with you-- unless the manufacturer's cheaping out and using some conductive vinyl alternative, any vinyl handles (In good condition) or acetate handled screwdrivers are as safe to use on live circuits as Klein's products.
They say not to use them on live circuits for liability purposes, as they are less safe than proper insulated tools (More exposed metal, harder to tell if the handles are compromised), but used properly they're fine.
This is why trips are great! Less confusion!
Doesn’t DC tend to melt shit a lot faster when you cause an arc? Like why DC switches last 1/10 as long as AC switches.
I don’t know. It had a lot of real similar markings to tons of other mid-range meters, they all have that “Intertek” mark and shit. I can’t find any straight rebadging though like how my Southwire meter from Lowe’s was rebadged as Reed and Amazon Commercial.
As far as I know a DC switch and and AC switch last equally as long. You can use AC equipment for some DC applications. Like if you wire your house on DC to use a solar-battery array, only thing that needs be changed is the appliances.
You might think that because if you run AC on DC appliance(complex electronics) it will 1) not work 2) fry a lot of parts. DC appliances also tend to use volts in the order of 1,2,4,8,12 and 24, AC in the order of 120/240. You can weild with 240V but need 50amps. AC is used for arching a weild. I mean make a tac weilder from an old microwave.
It’s something about how AC technically goes to 0V 60x a second, so the arc is constantly extinguishing. But DC is straight power, so when you get that arc flipping a switch, it creates a lot more heat.
So if you take an extension cord with some load on the end and plug it into the outlet, you get that spark. You can do it 100 times and you won’t see any signs of a burn on the plug. But if you have that same load hooked up to a car battery and you put the wire on the battery post 100 times, you’re going to see some discoloration eventually from all those arcs.
>contact corrosion
not a problem as far as I know for any electrical equipment AC or DC. Corrosion normally comes from a Bi-metal interface due to metal and semi-conductor properties. usually you get more of a problem with aluminum.
Arcing with DC appears to be more of a failure to properly insulate contact points and to properly engage them. switches are designed to have a crisp and firm snap to prevent arcing all together. if you are thinking of contact erosion on a battery, that has more to do with ionization through the environment (dust and moisture) than it does with arcing on contact. doing that to a car battery is generally a bad idea because the terminals on a battery are not designed as a contact-switch, the battery is also designed with a capability for a large draw on amperage, as I said before you need about 50 amps to arc wield on AC, a car battery can draw an instantaneous amperage of 500 amps. if you have have a resistor or regulator like a fuse or contact dis-connector, if the amperage ever goes above that it will blow. that is why you have fuses in your car, it is a way to prevent an overflow of amperage as it is drawn from your vehicle.
most DC power sources are drawn from a battery reserve, or else are drawn from an AC supply and built on either a battery or capacitor. such is the great barrier, AC =1/2 DC or atleast that used to be true I think we managed a 80% gain by using some semiconductor tomfoolery to get both pus and pull currents out of one phase of AC.
just some basic rules:
>current occurs by the function of resistance and voltage
>all batteries are capacitors, even if they don't do a very good job of it.
>a capacitor can instantaneously release all of its energy limited only by resistance.
>capacitors function almost entirely based on the properties of resistance.
>air is a good insulator until it isn't
>you are a better conductor than air
>a crisp and firm snap to prevent arcing all together.
good lord anon go read at least the first paragraph about inductors before you post any more expert electrical advice.
>t. Knows Electricity and will prove it to you with rambling longposts
I’m not talking about welding and ionization. I’m talking about how DC is harder on switches than AC.
then this is what you must want to cite.
https://www.mouser.com/blog/which-switch-who-cares-if-its-ac-or-dc
1 volt/amp in DC is worth more power than 1 volt/amp in AC, but DC power expends itself faster over a distance than AC. which is the trade off we made when we chose an AC power grid over a DC power grid.
>but DC power expends itself faster over a distance than AC.
wat?
The biggest feature that is why we're using an AC grid is the easy voltage transformation using transformers compared to the conventional difficulty with transforming DC voltages. Apparently modern solid state devices make DC power transmission more workable, and several large HVDC projects have been rolled out around the globe.
Yes, there is a new hvdc cable running very close to my house.
It will be harder to “tap” it than it was with the previous AC cable.
Or, maybe no. Know what I mean?
>>but DC power expends itself faster over a distance than AC.
Yes that is the exact reason Nicola Tesla purposed and established AC energy and equipment. the voltage transformation is a just a side effect. an AC wire can transfer energy at any voltage further than a DC wire, faster. this is because an AC current is using magnetic properties to push and pull electrons rather than a DC which tries to push electrons through a wire. this isn't a problem in an order of magnitude of feet or yards, but is in kilometers and miles. the other thing is we have found a way to transfer AC energy and DC energy without loosing a lot of energy and without having a frequency problem.
https://www.renogy.com/blog/the-complete-dc-to-ac-converter-guide/
the idea is that we can generate energy in DC, store it in DC, then get it to move through AC and arrive to your house in AC, which you can then use as AC or DC. those High voltage DC lines are probably for moving energy from a generator to a battery storage facility. you loose energy when you convert DC to AC or AC to DC, so making a HVDC can work over a space but has its limits and you loose a lot of DC energy when you up or down scale the voltage. so no you aren't able to tap free energy like a ghetto off of a transformer.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/High-voltage_direct_current
>DC melts switches
It's just that AC current cuts some slack and allows some period for an arc to extinguish, while DC will maintain it and only allow extinction by physical separation or with an arc mitigation medium like oil or inert gas.
Except for the welding part, everything you wrote in that post is garbage. A lot of small appliances use AC voltages like 9VAC, 12VAC, 24VAC and such.
just so ppl know I was not the one to reply to your post but think all three of us are in agreement.
also working on AC and DC equipment has different standards for safety, mostly being DC is safer in most cases. the Alternating part of a current means it is easier to become the ground due to the electron oscillation.
the other and more practical option is to wear rubber gloves so that you are insulated and not the equipment.
not those silicon mechanic gloves but electrician's rubber gloves. however only linemen normally work using those.
(Linemen refers to electricians who normally work with 600V+ equipment)
that does bring up a thought, Van Bam do you ever work on hybrids or EV cars?
> Klein meter
Who really makes that meter? Look like maybe uni-t.
I’m not sure klein actually makes anything, like their screwdrivers used to look like fuller/xecellite before they made them with that overmolding fad.
>square drivers only used for circuit breakers
Tell that to the Canadians
Also the blue and grey handle guys are Kleins. Have fun stripping live wires with em.
I used a square drive like 4 days ago and I've only lived on my own for about a month. Not Canadian.
They're common in the US for deck and pocket screws, and I fricking hate them, Torx is better.
Also electrical panels.
My use was actually my shed. I don't understand the hate for them except it needs a special tool though. Torx does too. So what?
I have hands on experience with them constantly stripping, both going in and out, so I developed a personal hate for it.
I prefer Torx as well. Plus when you’re trying to get a bit in a screw, torx is +/-30deg to get it in the hole, square and phillips are +/-45deg and that little difference gives you a better shot of seating the driver bit in the screw with a small turn of the wrist.
>shock-resistant
Unless you're dealing with medium- or higher voltage, I would not be afraid of a plastic handle becoming conductive. What is scarier is how an uninsulated screwdriver's shaft could rub against parts of a frame or a chassis while the tip is contacting an energized part: 200A slow-blow fuse melts a few inches away from your face.
>200A slow-blow fuse melts a few inches away from your face.
when working in that range I would leave it to linemen. for household work a normal screwdriver is enough.
>A lot of small appliances use AC voltages like 9V, 12V, 24V and such.
low voltage, most of the time anything goes below 120V unless it is a dimmer or something I assume the appliance wants a 120V input and will adjust internally. other wise it sounds like a DC compenent that will have some form of converter, electronic that use computing use this a lot, like microphones, projectors, and LED lighting.
most any motor based electronic will want an AC charge and will operate at 120/240V, particularly heating elements, fans, HVAC, and electric ovens.
Microwaves, LED lights, computers, printers, voice command speaker systems, speakers systems, and TVs may appear to be AC but are actually DC.
the only time I had to install a transformer for 120V to 24V was for a dimmer switch.
commercial utility services like phone lines, security/CCTV, and fire alarms all use DC at 24V
Keep an image of your dad in your tool box.
My dad's shit at any technical skill
My granddad was an machinist before ww2
i am always asked by dad to help with problems from car, lawnmower, phone, tv, computer, fricking 12thumbs obese boomer
Build kits for specific jobs.
not really a good idea, some jobs require special tools, this is more of a general use.
>laser level
>pipe wrench set
>pry-bar set
>complete wire stripper/cutter set
>MC cutters
>pipe threading set/die-cutter set
>Tap set
>complete impact and drill set
>power tool collections
>power tool specialty parts
>dermal/rotary tool
>chisel set
>saws
>more saws
>planer
>router
>clamp set
>complete tin snip set
>file set
I mean a lot of these things are handy man generalist tools, but you probably won't use them because you are more likely to just replace a part rather than modify a tool or part.
Def a big pink dildo
What, no Leatherman Chads in here?! Smh, sometimes a Leatherman is all you need. Preferably a Surge/ Wave.
Why have a Leatherman in a tool bag when you have real versions of the tool in your bag?
Leathermans are for when you don’t have a tool bag.
you have a recommended, "I travel and can't carry a tool bag" EDC that is TSA safe?
When was the last time you flew on a plane? I had an 8mm allen key in my pocket one time and the Shae’ntae at the metal detector told me it could be used as a weapon.
I’m not walking through TSA with a $100+ Leatherman, and I’m not trying to repair shit on the flight.
This is a thread about tool bags for a handyman, not a TSA-prohibited EDC thread.
As for EDC, I like cargo pockets.
One of the biggest surprises I've had while doing aircraft maintenance has been seeing leathermans being legitimately used on the line. It's a very niche application though, quick turnovers where no real maintenance can be done. Everyone carries one, but I personally refuse to get one on principle, I just carry actual pliers, knife, and bit driver separately in edc pouch.
Shit better be etched with your man #
I think something like a wave is definitely worth carrying in one's pocket because it will save weight, unless you truly need full strength versions of the tools that the multitool includes. Of course, the multitool needs to not be cheap trash.
I don’t disagree. But OP’s post is about a toolbag, and a Leatherman is for when you don’t have a toolbag nearby.
Also Ozark Trail multitools are only marginally more useful than a roll of pennies.
Critically: the leatherman in my pocket saves me weight in a tool bag that's already near 40 pounds.
Yup, and it’s not in the toolbag so it doesn’t belong here.
If you do any woodworking, Especially where you find yourself using hand tools. Just do yourself a favor and get a pull saw.
>Milwaukee Tool® M18 Fuel Magnetic Drill kit with M18, 12 Amp-hour batteries
>Airsoft all metal Beretta 92FS
>Black spray paint
>Several large reinforced duffle bag capable of holding lots of weight
>Ski mask
>Milwaukee Tool® M12 heated black hoodie
>Work van capable of fast and discrete transit
All an upstanding, honest tradesman with self discipline and responsibility could need!
If this is not in your pocket at all times, you're fricking up. Pliers, cutters, wire stripper, hammer, crimper, all in one. Made to last. This is your best friend.
>doesn't have a drone in his toolbox
ngmi
A few feet of stiff "hanger" wire.
Cheap as hell and has gotten me out of a lot of tricky situations. Unclogging drains, fishing out fallen parts, breaking into cars, pulling wiring through walls, ECT.
>he needs an entire toolbox
I carry a small 50 cents flathead tester screwdriver sharpened on a side. Uses:
>tester
>flat/philips screws
>punch/bore
>zip tie retrieval
>cutter
>marker
>chisel
>wire bender
>self defense
>can opener
>snake stabber
picrel is my toolbox
Sharpened how?
This is what I think you need. You can do 95% of stuff with this set up.
Screwdriver set
Mini screwdriver set
4-18mm ratchet spanners
6 &12 inch shifters
Claw hammer
Pliers
Multi grips
Side cutters/ snips
Cold chisel
Tape measure
Utility knife
12 inch spirit level
Small pry bar
Cordless driver
Cordless drill
Drill bit set
Driver bit set
matches and lighter fluid
Lineman's scissors
Channel locks.
Jis screwdriver
some essential hand tools you may have overlooked that I'd suggest putting in a bag. This is by no means a complete list, just what I suggest off the top of my head as a carpenter. Many essentials are too big for your bag (level set, table saw, miter saw, power tools etc), so keep in mind you will need to get more bags/boxes to store your tools.
>chalk line (red or blue; I like Tajima)
>soft-face hammer (I like Vaughan's)
>rip claw hammer
>spring tools combo kit (nail set & hinge pin)
>wrecking knife/chisel (I like Bahco's)
>12" combination square
>speed Square
>measuring tape
>Scribe tool (I like the accuscribe pro or razor scribe)
>10oz caulk gun (I like Tajima)
>torpedo level (I like the Stabila 16" magnetic)
>12in trigger clamp
>6"+ face clamp
>small block plane
>string line (and accompanying line level)
>sanding blocks (make an 80 grit & 120 grit)
>bastard files (half-round & flat)
>pocket hole jig (Kreg)
>utility knife
>small block plane
>vice grips
>multi screwdriver
>laser level (squaring & don't cheap out)
>allen key set
>adjustable wrenches
>channellock pliers
>diagonal angle cutters
>tin snips
>needle nose pliers
>6" putty knife
>15-in-1 painters tool (Husky)
>safety glasses
>ear plugs
>gloves
>toolbelt or vest
>headlamp
Small list of supplies
>notepad
>pencils (mechanical & carpenters)
>sharpie
>paint marker (to mark property)
>wood glue
>CA glue
>plumbers tape
>electrical tape
>masking tape
>fastener organizer (stock with various nails, screws, nuts, bolts, etc.)
>pneumatic tool oil
>first aid kit (small)
a vehicle, so you can drive to the local hardware shop to grab that 1 tool you don't have but need for the job
The basics are the best.
Good quality:
Socket set with wrenches and extensions
Comprehensive screwdriver set and screw driver bit set
Allen Key set
My tools help me service my car so im more inclined to get tools for that purpose.
Handy man stuff is a bit more involved, plumbing, taps, doors, gates , electric etc etc.
This is what lives in the trunk of my car.
The smaller bag on the left has my sockets and bit sets in it. 1/4" shallow, 3/8" shallow + deep, then the harbor freight icon bit ratchet set + an Irwin telescoping bit driver for when I need some mf reach. Side pocket has wobble extensions for both sizes.
Taking the shit out and laying it out like this made me realize I didn't need the panel removal tool or the plastic prybars in there. I bought them a few months back to help a friend install a stereo in a side by side and just tossed them in the bag afterwards. They can sit in a tool drawer until I need them again
These tools have never been used
I use them every fricking week. I am the handy guy for my family and several friends
Actually maybe twice a month thinking about it. 90% of the time I just use the socket/bit bag + cobra knock offs and that resolves whatever I'm dealing with. Also the hart screwdrivers and chisel are new, my walmart had a bunch of shit on clearance and I couldn't resist a set of demolition screwdrivers for $7. I replaced my old craftsman screwdrivers with them, theyve been lightly used like twice, the chisel has not been used yet.
You aren't handy to anyone, you haven't even haned your own tools yet my guy
>factory clean striking tools
>perfect tape measure with unscuffed label
>unopened package of razor blades
>no debris or dust on a single handle, gloves or tool bag
>absence of fasteners, no type of square,lack of layout tools
>unused adhesive , tape itching to come off the carabiner
I'm not even convinced that pencil has been used let alone from the pic I can't even confirm with my eyes that it's even been sharpened for first time use yet, the unopened pack of razors builds that case for me.
Kek. At least my sawzall blades look like they ran through one or twi pieces of wood.
That’s a recent Walmart shopping spree too because none of that Hart shit even existed a couple years ago.
Do u fricking animals not believe in cleaning your tools? I keep a bucket of gojo wipes with me and clean everything I used before I put them up. As a kid my dad never cleaned his shit and opening his toolbox and catching the smell of fermented grease and diesel coming out of the box would make me fricking wretch. I'm not letting dirty tools go into my bag and rub off on the fabric and all the other tools. Also it's low quality picture, many of the items have blemishes that just aren't visible in the pic. Product of holding the phone up and away to get everything in the shot then resizing it to post on PrepHole. Here's a close up of the tape measure, since I leave it clipped outside the bag and it's easy to grab.
Yea bro you’re not going to clean up the pry bars and make them factory fresh after every use.
By god I can use rustoleum and try
>not_a_hand-me-down.jpg
Still not buying the handyman larp, just admit you're a dirty PrepHoleer.
It's all just too clean for any real use and you're missing some very basic tools for even basic home maintenance let alone anyone to call to fix something. No claw hammer, drill/driver, biggest level is a torpedo, again no square, no putty knives, no caulk gun, no sandpaper, those saws it just doesn't add up.
Where is his all purpose Craftsman pry bar with chips and dents on the back of the handle?
There’s the other one that got chiseled a little too raw
>Still not buying the handyman larp, just admit you're a dirty PrepHoleer.
When the frick did I ever claim to be a professional? Yes I'm a diy'er, I am the personal handyman of friends and family
And for everything you're b***hing I don't have, I have all that shit at home in my garage. The bag is a reactive kit, for when something is suddenly fricked and needs to be unfricked. It's not a comprehensive solution pack I'm going to be remodeling peoples' kitchens with man. When I have projects with advance notice and time to plan and gather materials, yeah I've got all of that shit at home! The bag is mostly for surprises or short notice shit.
And I do have a combination square in there, it was just out of frame on the bottom right next to the mini hacksaw
I personally think leaving them dirty is more effective. that way Sepsis, gangrene, and Necrotizing fasciitis sets in quickly.
>no pic, NSFW
Duct tape
I’d keep a wiener ring handy. You never know when they can’t pay up.
Vernier scale caliper
-dilator
-rope
-woke indoctrinationn kit
-mask
-vaccine