Our House is heated with wood stoves. The heat from the stove in our Great Room does not reach our guest room well. can I build a steam, water, or oil radiator system to scavenge waste heat from the single wall chimney pipe?
I have full access and ease of movement in my attic. could I wrap the chimney pipe in copper tube, then go into attic with it (possibly change over to PEX in attic?) over to bedroom, back down through ceiling, and install a radiator in the guest room to transfer heat? I would insulate the pipe/tube in the attic to preserve heat on it's way to guest room.
if so, would I need a circulation pump, or can I just install two check valves in the attic; one checking flow away from heated liquid, and one checking flow as it heads back to the stove to reheat at chimney pipe, and let the heat/cool act as a circulatory motive?
Yes. That's how it is done here in Europe.
can you give a better description of your system? any reccomendations or cautions about my methods or components? any photos you could share?
I've looked online, I'm not seeing much that is helpful. all I pull up is articles talking about boiler/steam systems and those all discuss how "dated" this type of system is, and instead reccomend plug in electric oil radiators.
I imagine its some form of copper pipe wound around the chimney and then they have an electric oil pumping system that forces it to circulate to various points in the house
OP don't listen to this anon, he is moronic.
We have wood stoves that have water boilers on them. That water is pumped by central heating system thru radiators across the house. Modern systems use gas boilers, but there is nothing preventing you from using multiple heat sources on the same system.
This is what I set up for my grandpa who loved his wood stove, but I dropped a gas backup since he'd pass out in his chair and sleep for 12h and house would cool down.
>RIP grandpa. F
Anyhow, you can find such systems in US too, but they are not as common.
Typically instead of radiators, a water/air heat sexchanger is added to your air handler, and 99.99% euro houses are not conducive to having a forced air system, it's pretty much only used on commercial buildings.
You even have these picrel absolute units that sit outdoors and feed hot water to your house, very based system.
Older homes in the US were exclusively radiators. Many of them were originally coal, then later converted to natural gas. The home I grew up in was like that. Probably not until the late 60's where new construction was mainly forced air.
Central Outdoor units are good. Good brand.
I was in missouri ozarks where the guy had one, designed in mississippi. It was stainless, but the baffle had disintegrated and had no reburner. Incredibly inefficient. Used 3x the wood it should have. And he had no passive heating loop to the roof, e.g. an antifreeze filled coil and solar collection system.
>I have full access and ease of movement in my attic. could I wrap the chimney pipe in copper tube, then go into attic with it (possibly change over to PEX in attic?) over to bedroom, back down through ceiling, and install a radiator in the guest room to transfer heat? I would insulate the pipe/tube in the attic to preserve heat on it's way to guest room.
yes why not. Wrap the pipe and tubes with asbestos or other non burning insulation.
>wrap the pipe in tube with asbestos
mesothelioma speedrun. use fiberglass fricking donce
Oh screw you buddy. Over here in europe we make underwear out of that shit and put it in cough drops. Ain't hurt nobody one bit. Enjoy putting on your little girl panties and prancing around the ultra safe USA. Queers.
prove it then, eurogay
eurotrash, enjoy russian oil to jear your house. oh wait...
> oh, shit.. i see some asbestos
> call remediation company
> set up sealed area, negative pressure zones, hazmat suits
> start spraying it down with containment gel destroying building
> Get results back from lab. It was rockwool.
$27 k well-spent.
Its hilarious people treat a piece of asbestos insulation like its fricking plutonium. Get a grip.
>lol wow pussies are afraid of drowning to death because their lungs stopped working I drown to death all the time harden up little homosexuals
Dude, there is lots of different types of fuel but sure you know more
Coal
Coal-like products
Wood
Pellet
Gas
Oil
Electricity
Even ultrasound heaters
And all of it circulate inside building by pipes.
Silicosis of the lungs requires years of continuous and repeated exposure for friable pieces to end up trapped in your lungs to such an extent as to cause the condition. A piece of asbestos insulation on the floor does not induce silicosis. You're a tard. Like do you even process how one event leads to the other in your meaningless life or do things just happen in front of you like post cards flashing across a screen until lights out?
You can scavenge some heat like that but I doubt it would be enough to make the radiator warm enough to be useful, you would need more surface area like a water jacket or a pipe heat exchanger.
Also if the radiator is lower than the heat source you'll need a circulation pump.
I would suggest building a smaller test system with scrap, make a smaller copper pipe coil with a pump and a bucket and see how long it takes to heat up the bucket, then calculate how much power you can extract and multiply for the full sized coil
Use a much better stove that is 3x as efficient, still has a (mica, usually) clear front door to view the fire, and burns up everything to a fine residual ash, leaving no creosote -or heat- in the chimney to 'recover'.
Your primary burn process is inefficient. With no secondary burn of the gasses. Fix the initial issue.
it's an EPA 2020 standard from US Stove company, with Re-burner. it's plenty efficient. no matter how efficient your stove, your chimney still gets hot. thermodynamics.
No. Triple-walled, polished stainless steel, vacuum insulated chimney.
Thermodynamics.
My parents got an insert, designed and sold in the 80's. On the demo truck, a fire was blazing inside. A brick could be removed just above the insert, and the air was barely warm.
Just enough heat is needed for draft. If it's warmer than that, it's wasted heat.
If it's just warm enough to draft, there isn't any additional heat you can pull, without introducing a blower to assist moving the exhaust out. Like modern gas heaters use.
Single wall flu pipe inside the house ?
Yikes …Pray you have no fire, home owners insurance would laugh at you
incorrect. it's UL listed and rated for indoor use. passed all inspections, including insurance evaluation. but your confident assumption has been noted, or whatever.
There are stoves fitted with back boilers that are specifically for this purpose. They heat water and it's pumped around radiators. I don't think you're going to get much heat from wrapping copper pipe around the chimney however. With a back boiler, the heat exchanger is mounted in the firebox, in direct contact with the flames and hot gases. This requires a circulation pump or the water will turn to steam and blow up the piping.
Think about the total water capacity of your proposed system. I don't think you're gonna have enough heat capacity or transfer from some copper coils around your chimney for this to be feasible.
Take a look at boiler stoves and how much water they can heat and how they accomplish it. It requires a surprising amount of energy
>This requires a circulation pump or the water will turn to steam and blow up the piping.
You can use a rise of piping and a small header tank instead. The header tank should allow any excess pressure to escape whilst keeping the system pressurised using gravity.
That's how my back boiler works anyway.
Why not just use a heat reclaimer?
Use a heat reclaimer to pull more heat from the stove pipe, then use fans or a blower/duct system to blow cold air TOWARD your stove. That will speed up the natural convection.
Damn how bad did you frick up the design of your house lmao
We have it in Europe (‘wood central heating’) but it’s normally done with a water jacket heat exchanger inside the stove itself. If you rely on flow from the heat instead of using a pump it may take hours to get warm. There are portably jacuzzis with wood stoves as well, usually diy projects. Those normally have a copper coil about 3” long in total about one foot above the flame and use a small 230v pump to circulate water.
I think to really get some heat out of it you’d have to put the heat exchanger at least in the hot air flow (the chimney wall heats up much slower). If it doesn’t heat your attic to a comfortable temperature right now, it probably won’t heat up the guest room either. How hot does the chimney even get on the outside? Because the radiator will probably be at least 20 degrees colder.
depending on the setup you may need a emergancy cooling system,
on a solid fuel burner the system could reach to hight temperatures which further incerease not like a oil burner you just shut off, creating steam and exploding and scalding you,
for that you need a safety valve it puts cold tap water into the heat exchanger and opens a valve to a drain on the return.
forgot pic
this is not a joke,
pic rel was a air bnb with a water heating wood stove,
some teenagers made a bigg fire and then decided to shut off all radiators in the house because it became to warm.
6.5 gal water turn into 11040gal of Steam
whoops haha
Well if you're not a scumbag that inflates property values with airbnb properties renting them out to moronic children who dont know how anything works thats not a realistic danger.
>stop using your property for monetary gain! bwaaah
like a little bwaby
Why cant you come up with a business model that doesnt involve destroying communities?
>Money is more important then community and people!
Life is competitive and concentrating on failures is a waste of effort. Virtue doesn't fund retirements. Money is worth murdering for because only money enables freedom.
I hate that people like you exist
But I sleep well at night knowing your greed wont go unpunished
>Money is more important then community and people
It is though. back to gaydit commie
Boy if only there was some way to relieve pressure when things become dangerous. Like with some sort of valve or something.
Steam system was incorrectly designed and should have vented. Well, it sort of vented...
i already posted the solution in the post i replied to, this house prob lacked a thermal runnaway fuse,
the over pressure valves in water heating circuits are only designed for water and open at 6 or 8 bar, but steam will have so much volume the valve cant handle it anyways,
this is where a TAs comes to work in a boiler with a warm tap water heat exchanger it opens the warm water output to the drain at 100C, the cold water flows in and sucks all heat out of the heating water.
without a secound heat exchanger you use pic rel which conects the boiler input directly to mains water and the output to the drain.