yep, fricking $35 a box here in the u.s, but you have to do it. Cheap screws just keep getting worse and worse, where you can't even frick around with em.
Love me torx simple as, OP is probably blasting the shit out of his bits with an impact instead of just using impact bits that can handle the torsion that occurs
Torx was always a shitty fastener type and I'm tired of yall pretending it's not
Eh, they aren't any worse then allens.
Worst part is finding which torx key to use, but that's since I don't mess with them much.
I snapped a 3/8 drive 6mm allen in an old suzuki engine case once. It is what it is. Just a cheapo craftsman but it did the job until then.
I have to hand it to a company that abandons their reason for existence - modified philips - right in their logo - for something that has a chance of working.
Just like sharkbite now makes legitimate pex-a expansion fittings and tubing.
“Yeah, sorry our main product was a scam, but we scammed enough people outta their money to clone and undercut some other smarter guy”
I had to look it up after you said that, so it was a square/Phillips combo head? God, I hate those so much. To be fair, their design does look better than the typical combo head, but yeah, the israelite screws are vastly superior.
ive been using these for over 3 years on most projects, even where I dont need decks screws, just cause they use a torx and dont slip.
i do occasionally strip one, and when it slips, it fricks the bit up.
been using Diablo bits, they last a while.
Wierd my sockets don't seem to share this issue. My triple squars seem to hang on fine as well. Even my Allen head from the same kit seems to not be consumable. The missing ones are ones I lost
You don't understand the first thing about anything physical do you? Bits go inside something and torque it from the inside, sockets torque things from the outside, of course the socket isn't going to round off where as the bit will.
Give back your extra chromosome. I claimed only that they are both fasteners, I never claimed either rounds off either.
https://i.imgur.com/PgzSmU5.jpg
>Short non-impact rated bits in an extension.
Gee I wonder why you're fricking your bits up. It is a fricking mystery. Stop buying cheap shit and you'll be fine.
>non impact rated
Dum Black person I don't know how many times I've said it, the only bit I broke with impact action was in the impact driver it came with which was Matco. No not cheapest bottom barrel Matco. It's there in the picture if you can muster the brain power to read. The rest were broken with a 1/4 drive gearwrench ratchet as I said before a few times.
So in the end you all do admit, torx is garbage. Got it.
Torx does not cam-out and can withstand higher torques than internal hex at a given head size. Vertical sidewalls maximize tool engagement and produce no cam-out forces to push the driver out of the screw head, resulting in less fatigue as no end load is required. It’s also less likely to damage the driver or driven screw.
With a perpendicular drive angle to the axis of the fastener, Torx drive produces minimal radial force. This force distribution allows a higher torque to be transmitted with little likelihood of reaming of failure — either of the driver or the driven screw.
10 months ago
Anonymous
By design, Torx head screws resist cam out better than Phillips head or slot head screws.[1] Whereas the tendency of Phillips drivers to cam out under excessive torque has been listed as a feature preventing damage to the screw-head or driver,[5] Torx heads were designed to prevent cam-out. The development of better torque-limiting automatic screwdrivers for use in factories allowed this change. Rather than rely on the tool to slip out of the screw head when a desired torque level is reached (which risks damage to the driver tip, screw head, or workpiece), torque-limiting driver designs achieve a desired torque consistently.
Chatgpt has entered the chat
> Phillips cam out “feature”
Absolute Bullshit. A drywaller will do 10000 phillips screws a day, we use a clutch for that.
They are good for quickly seating on the bit though.
10 months ago
Anonymous
You also use a special driver with a belt feed if you're running that many. Phillips cams out by design.
[...]
Torx on paper is great in the real world? Mungy garbage go lick some knobs
Still trying OP?
10 months ago
Anonymous
Says the knob licker
10 months ago
Anonymous
philips still cams out moron
10 months ago
Anonymous
Yeah, but it’s not a design feature.
Driving 1000s of short drywall screws with PR2 bits and a clutch on your driver there isn’t enough force required to cam out with a new-ish bit.
10 months ago
Anonymous
they were designed a long time ago
without your particular use case in mind
are you trolling or are you seriously that slow?
10 months ago
Anonymous
I didn’t say or imply they are for drywall only. That only came about in the 80s and 90s.
I’m saying they weren’t designed to cam out as some ppl suggest. One cam-out could trash your bit. I can do 1000s of phillips with a clutched drywall driver without replacing the bit, so it’s a good application phillips bits. Even in canada where robertson reins. The reason is they’re so easy to seat.
10 months ago
Anonymous
They don't actually work with the shit. They're autists that read the salesman pitch and believe it wholeheartedly. Go look in any thread about something you're familiar with and see it yourself. Diy is a joke on this website, as much as I hate him for being a name gay the only good information I've gotten from diy/ came from bepis. It was simply that he found out his power probe tip used the same socket as any multimeter and you can use them all in there in place of it. It's true, you can, and nobody told me that before even the tool truck gay trying to sell it to me.
10 months ago
Anonymous
They don't actually work with the shit. They're autists that read the salesman pitch and believe it wholeheartedly. Go look in any thread about something you're familiar with and see it yourself. Diy is a joke on this website, as much as I hate him for being a name gay the only good information I've gotten from diy/ came from bepis. It was simply that he found out his power probe tip used the same socket as any multimeter and you can use them all in there in place of it. It's true, you can, and nobody told me that before even the tool truck gay trying to sell it to me.
>t. only ever screwed drywall
were not all morons like you
10 months ago
Anonymous
your argument is that they weren't designed to cam out, because it destroys a bit?
they were designed to protect the vastly more expensive shit you are assembling from getting destroyed by over torque and for faster installs (it's easier and faster to seat the bit in philips)
10 months ago
Anonymous
By design, Torx head screws resist cam out better than Phillips head or slot head screws.[1] Whereas the tendency of Phillips drivers to cam out under excessive torque has been listed as a feature preventing damage to the screw-head or driver,[5] Torx heads were designed to prevent cam-out. The development of better torque-limiting automatic screwdrivers for use in factories allowed this change. Rather than rely on the tool to slip out of the screw head when a desired torque level is reached (which risks damage to the driver tip, screw head, or workpiece), torque-limiting driver designs achieve a desired torque consistently.
Torx on paper is great in the real world? Mungy garbage go lick some knobs
10 months ago
Anonymous
its literally the best in the real world. everything i build uses torx. my job is to repair electronics. ive repaired an average of like 6 electronic devices a day for the past 15 years. i have repaired over 20,000 devices.
heres what ive learned:
1 - hex rounds
2 - philips cams out (requires downward force to prevent)
3 - torx functions flawlessly
10 months ago
Anonymous
By design, Torx head screws resist cam out better than Phillips head or slot head screws.[1] Whereas the tendency of Phillips drivers to cam out under excessive torque has been listed as a feature preventing damage to the screw-head or driver,[5] Torx heads were designed to prevent cam-out. The development of better torque-limiting automatic screwdrivers for use in factories allowed this change. Rather than rely on the tool to slip out of the screw head when a desired torque level is reached (which risks damage to the driver tip, screw head, or workpiece), torque-limiting driver designs achieve a desired torque consistently.
> that pretty much summarizes everything.
I bought tons of torx t25 GRKs to try them and ended up hating them. It comes with a bit and it can’t even hold them in the bit before you’re halfway through the pack. I pity the poor bastard that wants to try and take those decks apart, they’ll be cursing my name.
Lucklily I can go back to robertsons since i live in canada (although robertson seems to have become a chinese-ish company under berkshire hathaway’s evil empire)
I'd rather my cheap bits break than the frickin fastener I drilled a hole in to China with stripping out. I can replace the cheap bit and finish instead of having to redneck engineer something to extract it with.
>bunch of pittsburg harbor freight tier tools >obviously abused >this fasterner type sucks
maybe spend the extra few dollars for kobalt or husky, and invest in a can of penetrating oil.
>Matco, gearwrench >suggests husky or kobalt is better
Lmao.
Also >penetrating oil
That's what you use when youre really just killing time thinking about what's actually gonna work ie, torch, air hammer
yep, fricking $35 a box here in the u.s, but you have to do it. Cheap screws just keep getting worse and worse, where you can't even frick around with em.
Love me torx simple as, OP is probably blasting the shit out of his bits with an impact instead of just using impact bits that can handle the torsion that occurs
One of the broken bits (Matco) came in a kit to be used with an impact driver larping homosexual. The rest were broken by hand. Meanwhile I do abuse the shit out of my chrome hex sockets and they never break. Torx is for larping homosexuals pretending they work with their hands.
I'd rather my cheap bits break than the frickin fastener I drilled a hole in to China with stripping out. I can replace the cheap bit and finish instead of having to redneck engineer something to extract it with.
That's actually a good counter argument touché. I would argue that you should be able to feel you're about to strip something but I'm not gonna pretend I haven't just hoped things will work out and turned more anyway so you got me I guess.
I just went through about 800 of these last week putting this bad boy back together.
Requiring anything more than Philips to work with weak ass dead trees is just admitting you're terrible with tools. I was building shit out of wood with salvaged Philips skrews when I was just a boy
>I've had zero issues with torx
So you haven't used them that's my point. >using tools that overload its rating.
More proof you don't use tools as you didn't notice/couldn't tell they were all broken turning in the left or loosening direction. Ie, that amount of force + more is required. moron tool hoarders the lot of you.
>Philips and Robertson heads can frick right off
Okay but this thread is about torx moron
>I've GOT IT! I'LL IGNORE ALL OF THE FACTS PICTURED ITT AND POINTS MADE! THEN PROJECT MY OWN PROBLEMS ON OP!
You haven't posted evidence, I have, you're wrong and a moronic larper
10 months ago
Anonymous
No, you posted evidence that you don't know what you're doing and break tools because of it.
10 months ago
Anonymous
>0 evidence still
Repeating a claim proves only how moronic you are. Back it up homosexual. Oh, you can't? I know.
10 months ago
Anonymous
10 months ago
Anonymous
Oh good for you I accept the concession
10 months ago
Anonymous
I'm literally using a socket wrench right now to torque 3" T30 lag screws into ash and nothing's breaking, you're just a moron.
how many days and nobody can justify torx fasteners? We've been over >cheap tool!
Nope matco >the impact you used impact
Matco one was designed for this, and really besides that already makes a fastener shit if you can't use impact >you're using it wrong!
Loosening a fastener is using it wrong? Shit fastener the innit
>all my information comes from marketing and so I know it all
Actually work with your hands a day or two then tell me your opinion. Or at the very least, tell me how I'm wrong. You've done neither and can't. Original post I believe I was removing the front Driveshaft from a ram truck using a 1/4" drive ratchet and it pissed me off that it broke again. As they always do. and I posted a picture proving that they do with multiple examples. Where's you're receipts?
I've broken them all from harbor freight to snap on bits. It's just a bad design.
The size of the fastener you were attempting to remove was chosen for easy assembly line work, not for maintenance. That's not the fault of Torx, it's the fault of Chrysler. So-called engineers make many wretched choices.
I use Loctite on such fasteners because it excludes moisture thus also acts as anti-seize. If I break a bit (Torx, Allen, whatever) or split hex sockets it's acetylene torch time to heat the fastener red hot then let it cool and attempt to wiggle it. Then I replace it with whatever experience dictates, normally small hex head bolts because any socket head collects dirt and rust.
Socket head fasteners mostly benefit the assembly line and nothing else.
I too then break out a torch although I break it loose while it's still glowing if I can.
Every time i have to break out the torx bits or allen bits I cringe because I know the chances its going to be a bad day just went up by a large percentage...
The size of the fastener you were attempting to remove was chosen for easy assembly line work, not for maintenance. That's not the fault of Torx, it's the fault of Chrysler. So-called engineers make many wretched choices.
I use Loctite on such fasteners because it excludes moisture thus also acts as anti-seize. If I break a bit (Torx, Allen, whatever) or split hex sockets it's acetylene torch time to heat the fastener red hot then let it cool and attempt to wiggle it. Then I replace it with whatever experience dictates, normally small hex head bolts because any socket head collects dirt and rust.
Socket head fasteners mostly benefit the assembly line and nothing else.
Torx was designed for automation. The fastener will stay on the robotic tool much better then other standards. It's not designed for gorillas to vent their anger.
Im with op torx fricking sucks
Just look at the chamfers on the bit and fastener reduce the engagement to less than half of what it should be that alone proves its garbage
And the tolerances on the bits and fasteners is always shit resulting in poor loose floppy fitment its like everything about them is designed to strip something
Fricking garbage
Op here. I'm glad you're on my side I suppose but I disagree, I've only ever stripped out a torx when it was actually my fault. Your issue is likely that youre not using the right size honestly, even if it feels like it'll work, go grab the next size up and make sure, or grab a pick and makes sure you clean out the fastener so your bit can get in there nice and deep. These internal style fasteners collect dirt Alan, torx, triple squar all of them and get packed up so you can't get your bit in deep enough. Imo they don't cam out almost ever without user error, but they break constantly which is why I gave up getting them replaced and started getting the cheap ones because they're expendable now. Not what I have to do with hex sockets or triple square or even Alan.
>Your issue is likely that youre not using the right size honestly
Nope beleive me i do all the fiddle frickery with making sure its the right size... its jsut shit manufacturing
Nothing they're grasping at straws and even recommending lower quality shit because I called them out for being wrenchlets. However they're double wrong because one of those bits is Matco that I got tired of telling the tool truck about and started my Pittsburgh shit
my problem with torx is that there's too many sizes. And one size up or down randomly appear out of no where and ruin your bit because you didn't catch it (looking at you T15). Also frick the random odd man like T27 that you'll be lucky to find a bit for.
Exactamundo.
Robertson, for example, only has 4 sizes and 70% are red #2, 28% are green #1s.
The remainder are for > 12” screws use the black #3s, and these tiny ones for these tiny trimhead screws I found once are yellow #0s.
So, for virtually every common screw size, you’re covered.
Next size up from #3 is a ¼“ ratchet head.
Which are square because it was determined that it was the best at delivering torque and not breaking.
In my experience, that's not been a problem I get the whole kit test fit and always make sure the next size bigger doesn't fit. I guess it is annoying though to go through such a dum process. Btw, I mostly fix cars so I understand mileage varies.
Kit? You need like 5 kits each with 30 bits or so, since there is torx plus, paralobe, ttap, and security.
They are easily mis-identified.
Torx was always just a scam.
To add insult to injury, the predominance of millenials running around with impact drivers on torx make it so bits outsell the actual screws.
Yes, i know reverse-torx exists, somewhat ironically.
Security bits are literally just standard Torx bits with a hole in the middle, and TTAP are the opposite, a small deeper hole centered in the fastener that you can use standard bits on. For most standard Torx bits will work. Hell, for most, the one bit that comes with the package of deck screws will work great.
It's been 30 years and I've never broken a torx bit, what kind of literal moron do you have to be to break multiple in a day?
Not an argument as said very many times itt these are broken and twisted I the left hand direction. Frickin zoomers thinking their 1 year of shadowing experience matters and then pretending to be experts. Yes, I'm actual Brock lesmer I can exert a gigantic amount of torque with only a 3 inch long quarter inch drive ratchet. Seriously go frick yourselfs
I'm not that strong, they fricking break and if you dont know that youre not the guy I'll hire when I can't do it. Simple
>Your issue is likely that youre not using the right size honestly
Nope beleive me i do all the fiddle frickery with making sure its the right size... its jsut shit manufacturing
>Keeps Mongo'ing his bits >Mad that the drive type is actually doing what it's supposed to and not camming out
>Calling me a moron for breaking bolts isn't valid because I broke them, but in this direction!
Kid, if you fricking break it, you're doing something very wrong, and if you break more than one in the same way, you're an actual, literal fricking moron because you didn't learn a single fricking thing and blame the tools for you being a failure to your mother, your father, and to yourself.
Go learn something and stop making excuses you little homosexual boy.
>mfw trying to get the seatbelts out of a 40 year old chevy
>go out and buy a set with T45, T47, and T50 with a lifetime warranty >cash the lifetime warranty in for a replacement set within two hours >replaced all the bolts i removed with NORMAL bolts so this will never happen again
Torx was always a shitty fastener type and I'm tired of yall pretending it's not
why do you hate hex removers?
Torx was always a shitty fastener type and I'm tired of yall pretending it's not
>Pittsburg
>Gearwrench
Probably using them on an impact wrench.
>Probably using them on an impact wrench.
Only this one. Designed for it
Meaning, came in the kit. Matco kit mind not just gearwrench torx a shit
>Short non-impact rated bits in an extension.
Gee I wonder why you're fricking your bits up. It is a fricking mystery. Stop buying cheap shit and you'll be fine.
Oi! These c**ts are fantastic.
I almost jizzed my pants the first time I used one.
>I almost jizzed my pants the first time I used one.
It never ceases to amaze me how many 10 year old idiots post here.
It never ceases to amaze me how susceptible stupid people are to trolling.
yep, fricking $35 a box here in the u.s, but you have to do it. Cheap screws just keep getting worse and worse, where you can't even frick around with em.
Love me torx simple as, OP is probably blasting the shit out of his bits with an impact instead of just using impact bits that can handle the torsion that occurs
godlike.
I like these too.
Eh, they aren't any worse then allens.
Worst part is finding which torx key to use, but that's since I don't mess with them much.
I snapped a 3/8 drive 6mm allen in an old suzuki engine case once. It is what it is. Just a cheapo craftsman but it did the job until then.
I just went through about 800 of these last week putting this bad boy back together.
> used 800 torx bits
Using 800 bits for a deck using torx screws is normal when using an impact driver.
I can tell you from personal experience that anything you put into a stud or assemble with these isn't going anywhere.
Plus they actually look pretty nice as an accent on stuff like decorative shelves.
I have to hand it to a company that abandons their reason for existence - modified philips - right in their logo - for something that has a chance of working.
Just like sharkbite now makes legitimate pex-a expansion fittings and tubing.
“Yeah, sorry our main product was a scam, but we scammed enough people outta their money to clone and undercut some other smarter guy”
I had to look it up after you said that, so it was a square/Phillips combo head? God, I hate those so much. To be fair, their design does look better than the typical combo head, but yeah, the israelite screws are vastly superior.
the 6th one I ever used snapped the head clean off when I tightened it. (#6 x 1")
I like the GRK fasteners way better.
>
>implying
>unironically using israelitescrews
ive been using these for over 3 years on most projects, even where I dont need decks screws, just cause they use a torx and dont slip.
i do occasionally strip one, and when it slips, it fricks the bit up.
been using Diablo bits, they last a while.
>Robertson has entered the chat
I tried robertson for a while. They suck.
Yep, they fricking cam out and strip constantly.
Bits are consumables. Buy them by the handful and stop b***hing.
Wierd my sockets don't seem to share this issue. My triple squars seem to hang on fine as well. Even my Allen head from the same kit seems to not be consumable. The missing ones are ones I lost
>compares impact bits to sockets
You don't understand the first thing about anything physical do you? Bits go inside something and torque it from the inside, sockets torque things from the outside, of course the socket isn't going to round off where as the bit will.
Give back your extra chromosome. I claimed only that they are both fasteners, I never claimed either rounds off either.
>non impact rated
Dum Black person I don't know how many times I've said it, the only bit I broke with impact action was in the impact driver it came with which was Matco. No not cheapest bottom barrel Matco. It's there in the picture if you can muster the brain power to read. The rest were broken with a 1/4 drive gearwrench ratchet as I said before a few times.
So in the end you all do admit, torx is garbage. Got it.
>So in the end you all do admit, torx is garbage. Got it.
Wrong
it's better than Philips and Allen.
They're better than catching aids to wtf is your point? Mines that torx sucks and anyone that actually works with their hands knows it.
Name one thing wrong with torx.
Hex rounds
Philips cams out
Flat doesn't center
The only possible thing you could argue is better than torx is square or triangle
>Name one thing wrong with torx
The interface between fastener and driver is literally 1/2 to quarter of the possible engagment
Wrong
How?
Youre a fricking moron
Torx does not cam-out and can withstand higher torques than internal hex at a given head size. Vertical sidewalls maximize tool engagement and produce no cam-out forces to push the driver out of the screw head, resulting in less fatigue as no end load is required. It’s also less likely to damage the driver or driven screw.
With a perpendicular drive angle to the axis of the fastener, Torx drive produces minimal radial force. This force distribution allows a higher torque to be transmitted with little likelihood of reaming of failure — either of the driver or the driven screw.
Chatgpt has entered the chat
> Phillips cam out “feature”
Absolute Bullshit. A drywaller will do 10000 phillips screws a day, we use a clutch for that.
They are good for quickly seating on the bit though.
You also use a special driver with a belt feed if you're running that many. Phillips cams out by design.
Still trying OP?
Says the knob licker
philips still cams out moron
Yeah, but it’s not a design feature.
Driving 1000s of short drywall screws with PR2 bits and a clutch on your driver there isn’t enough force required to cam out with a new-ish bit.
they were designed a long time ago
without your particular use case in mind
are you trolling or are you seriously that slow?
I didn’t say or imply they are for drywall only. That only came about in the 80s and 90s.
I’m saying they weren’t designed to cam out as some ppl suggest. One cam-out could trash your bit. I can do 1000s of phillips with a clutched drywall driver without replacing the bit, so it’s a good application phillips bits. Even in canada where robertson reins. The reason is they’re so easy to seat.
They don't actually work with the shit. They're autists that read the salesman pitch and believe it wholeheartedly. Go look in any thread about something you're familiar with and see it yourself. Diy is a joke on this website, as much as I hate him for being a name gay the only good information I've gotten from diy/ came from bepis. It was simply that he found out his power probe tip used the same socket as any multimeter and you can use them all in there in place of it. It's true, you can, and nobody told me that before even the tool truck gay trying to sell it to me.
>t. only ever screwed drywall
were not all morons like you
your argument is that they weren't designed to cam out, because it destroys a bit?
they were designed to protect the vastly more expensive shit you are assembling from getting destroyed by over torque and for faster installs (it's easier and faster to seat the bit in philips)
Torx on paper is great in the real world? Mungy garbage go lick some knobs
its literally the best in the real world. everything i build uses torx. my job is to repair electronics. ive repaired an average of like 6 electronic devices a day for the past 15 years. i have repaired over 20,000 devices.
heres what ive learned:
1 - hex rounds
2 - philips cams out (requires downward force to prevent)
3 - torx functions flawlessly
By design, Torx head screws resist cam out better than Phillips head or slot head screws.[1] Whereas the tendency of Phillips drivers to cam out under excessive torque has been listed as a feature preventing damage to the screw-head or driver,[5] Torx heads were designed to prevent cam-out. The development of better torque-limiting automatic screwdrivers for use in factories allowed this change. Rather than rely on the tool to slip out of the screw head when a desired torque level is reached (which risks damage to the driver tip, screw head, or workpiece), torque-limiting driver designs achieve a desired torque consistently.
And what screw head do you suggest
>And what screw head do you suggest
JIS is superior
> that pretty much summarizes everything.
I bought tons of torx t25 GRKs to try them and ended up hating them. It comes with a bit and it can’t even hold them in the bit before you’re halfway through the pack. I pity the poor bastard that wants to try and take those decks apart, they’ll be cursing my name.
Lucklily I can go back to robertsons since i live in canada (although robertson seems to have become a chinese-ish company under berkshire hathaway’s evil empire)
I'd rather my cheap bits break than the frickin fastener I drilled a hole in to China with stripping out. I can replace the cheap bit and finish instead of having to redneck engineer something to extract it with.
>bunch of pittsburg harbor freight tier tools
>obviously abused
>this fasterner type sucks
maybe spend the extra few dollars for kobalt or husky, and invest in a can of penetrating oil.
>Matco, gearwrench
>suggests husky or kobalt is better
Lmao.
Also
>penetrating oil
That's what you use when youre really just killing time thinking about what's actually gonna work ie, torch, air hammer
One of the broken bits (Matco) came in a kit to be used with an impact driver larping homosexual. The rest were broken by hand. Meanwhile I do abuse the shit out of my chrome hex sockets and they never break. Torx is for larping homosexuals pretending they work with their hands.
That's actually a good counter argument touché. I would argue that you should be able to feel you're about to strip something but I'm not gonna pretend I haven't just hoped things will work out and turned more anyway so you got me I guess.
Still haven't been told why hex needed to be done with. Diy a bunch of larpers
Doesn't round like hex.
Doesn't can out like Philips.
I did no such thing
You're a good man
Requiring anything more than Philips to work with weak ass dead trees is just admitting you're terrible with tools. I was building shit out of wood with salvaged Philips skrews when I was just a boy
Are there any deep fakes of this b***h? And don't sit here and tell me you didn't do that from bike ramps to boxes for skating you know you did
>6 points of contact in better alignment while driving/removing
Not the bit type's fault you buy cheap garbage bits.
>cheap garbage bits
>Matco and gearwrench
Already went over this moron. Torx is shit tool hoarder
I've had zero issues with torx screws, they're fricking awesome. Not the bit's fault you keep using tools that overload its rating.
Philips and Robertson heads can frick right off and go to hell, those are genuinely garbage types.
>I've had zero issues with torx
So you haven't used them that's my point.
>using tools that overload its rating.
More proof you don't use tools as you didn't notice/couldn't tell they were all broken turning in the left or loosening direction. Ie, that amount of force + more is required. moron tool hoarders the lot of you.
>Philips and Robertson heads can frick right off
Okay but this thread is about torx moron
Ah, so you're just an butthole who refuses to believe anyone, or that you yourself are at fault, got it.
>I've GOT IT! I'LL IGNORE ALL OF THE FACTS PICTURED ITT AND POINTS MADE! THEN PROJECT MY OWN PROBLEMS ON OP!
You haven't posted evidence, I have, you're wrong and a moronic larper
No, you posted evidence that you don't know what you're doing and break tools because of it.
>0 evidence still
Repeating a claim proves only how moronic you are. Back it up homosexual. Oh, you can't? I know.
Oh good for you I accept the concession
I'm literally using a socket wrench right now to torque 3" T30 lag screws into ash and nothing's breaking, you're just a moron.
>Not naming the file "Overtorxed"
One job OP
>to torque
moron already been over this you can clearly see the bits were twisting the opposite direction, to loosen.
how many days and nobody can justify torx fasteners? We've been over
>cheap tool!
Nope matco
>the impact you used impact
Matco one was designed for this, and really besides that already makes a fastener shit if you can't use impact
>you're using it wrong!
Loosening a fastener is using it wrong? Shit fastener the innit
Yall finished pretending its good?
Hey, OP, you're a homosexual. You're the problem, not the drive type. Torx is fricking awesome.
>all my information comes from marketing and so I know it all
Actually work with your hands a day or two then tell me your opinion. Or at the very least, tell me how I'm wrong. You've done neither and can't. Original post I believe I was removing the front Driveshaft from a ram truck using a 1/4" drive ratchet and it pissed me off that it broke again. As they always do. and I posted a picture proving that they do with multiple examples. Where's you're receipts?
So, you're mad that you keep using bits not rated for the task?
I've broken them all from harbor freight to snap on bits. It's just a bad design.
I too then break out a torch although I break it loose while it's still glowing if I can.
>Bad design
>Literally the best when it comes to preventing cam-out and stripping
Still a you issue.
Skill issue.
Every time i have to break out the torx bits or allen bits I cringe because I know the chances its going to be a bad day just went up by a large percentage...
The size of the fastener you were attempting to remove was chosen for easy assembly line work, not for maintenance. That's not the fault of Torx, it's the fault of Chrysler. So-called engineers make many wretched choices.
I use Loctite on such fasteners because it excludes moisture thus also acts as anti-seize. If I break a bit (Torx, Allen, whatever) or split hex sockets it's acetylene torch time to heat the fastener red hot then let it cool and attempt to wiggle it. Then I replace it with whatever experience dictates, normally small hex head bolts because any socket head collects dirt and rust.
Socket head fasteners mostly benefit the assembly line and nothing else.
tfw Chrysler external torx
E torx are decent. Still not as good as a.quality 12 point fastener!
Oh yeah e torx are great! (Except i lied and they arent)
Frickin moron
Torx was designed for automation. The fastener will stay on the robotic tool much better then other standards. It's not designed for gorillas to vent their anger.
Im with op torx fricking sucks
Just look at the chamfers on the bit and fastener reduce the engagement to less than half of what it should be that alone proves its garbage
And the tolerances on the bits and fasteners is always shit resulting in poor loose floppy fitment its like everything about them is designed to strip something
Fricking garbage
>Sockpuppeting as anon
Op here. I'm glad you're on my side I suppose but I disagree, I've only ever stripped out a torx when it was actually my fault. Your issue is likely that youre not using the right size honestly, even if it feels like it'll work, go grab the next size up and make sure, or grab a pick and makes sure you clean out the fastener so your bit can get in there nice and deep. These internal style fasteners collect dirt Alan, torx, triple squar all of them and get packed up so you can't get your bit in deep enough. Imo they don't cam out almost ever without user error, but they break constantly which is why I gave up getting them replaced and started getting the cheap ones because they're expendable now. Not what I have to do with hex sockets or triple square or even Alan.
>Your issue is likely that youre not using the right size honestly
Nope beleive me i do all the fiddle frickery with making sure its the right size... its jsut shit manufacturing
>Gearwrench, Pittsburgh
No shit you hate Torx, you're buying chinamade garbage thinking it's worth it
Matco Black person read the thread dumbass
Whats wrong with gearwrench? Ive always had good luck with them
Nothing they're grasping at straws and even recommending lower quality shit because I called them out for being wrenchlets. However they're double wrong because one of those bits is Matco that I got tired of telling the tool truck about and started my Pittsburgh shit
my problem with torx is that there's too many sizes. And one size up or down randomly appear out of no where and ruin your bit because you didn't catch it (looking at you T15). Also frick the random odd man like T27 that you'll be lucky to find a bit for.
Exactamundo.
Robertson, for example, only has 4 sizes and 70% are red #2, 28% are green #1s.
The remainder are for > 12” screws use the black #3s, and these tiny ones for these tiny trimhead screws I found once are yellow #0s.
So, for virtually every common screw size, you’re covered.
Next size up from #3 is a ¼“ ratchet head.
Which are square because it was determined that it was the best at delivering torque and not breaking.
In my experience, that's not been a problem I get the whole kit test fit and always make sure the next size bigger doesn't fit. I guess it is annoying though to go through such a dum process. Btw, I mostly fix cars so I understand mileage varies.
Kit? You need like 5 kits each with 30 bits or so, since there is torx plus, paralobe, ttap, and security.
They are easily mis-identified.
Torx was always just a scam.
To add insult to injury, the predominance of millenials running around with impact drivers on torx make it so bits outsell the actual screws.
Yes, i know reverse-torx exists, somewhat ironically.
Security bits are literally just standard Torx bits with a hole in the middle, and TTAP are the opposite, a small deeper hole centered in the fastener that you can use standard bits on. For most standard Torx bits will work. Hell, for most, the one bit that comes with the package of deck screws will work great.
i'll use torx 100000 times before i use flatheads once
Okay work with metal homosexual
Not an argument as said very many times itt these are broken and twisted I the left hand direction. Frickin zoomers thinking their 1 year of shadowing experience matters and then pretending to be experts. Yes, I'm actual Brock lesmer I can exert a gigantic amount of torque with only a 3 inch long quarter inch drive ratchet. Seriously go frick yourselfs
I'm not that strong, they fricking break and if you dont know that youre not the guy I'll hire when I can't do it. Simple
>Keeps Mongo'ing his bits
>Mad that the drive type is actually doing what it's supposed to and not camming out
Never go full moron son
That's what I'm trying to tell you.
>Calling me a moron for breaking bolts isn't valid because I broke them, but in this direction!
Kid, if you fricking break it, you're doing something very wrong, and if you break more than one in the same way, you're an actual, literal fricking moron because you didn't learn a single fricking thing and blame the tools for you being a failure to your mother, your father, and to yourself.
Go learn something and stop making excuses you little homosexual boy.
Look at this fricktart that never encountered asian loctite (corrosion)
Get the frick out of here 1900
It's been 30 years and I've never broken a torx bit, what kind of literal moron do you have to be to break multiple in a day?
torx is my favourite type, i also like robertson
philips and flat are shit
Time to buy Snap-On, son.
>Snap-On
>Meme tools that only get traction because they literally roll up the van to every mechanics shop to sell their massively overpriced shit
Torx is literally the best.
Hex is the worst.
Flathead good if you wanna build mideival replicas.
Philips also sux
Square and triangle are good
>mfw trying to get the seatbelts out of a 40 year old chevy
>go out and buy a set with T45, T47, and T50 with a lifetime warranty
>cash the lifetime warranty in for a replacement set within two hours
>replaced all the bolts i removed with NORMAL bolts so this will never happen again
Well i mean at least you got your moneys worth right?
Monkey misuses its tools and complains. Maybe i should donate some of my extra chromosomes to it?
>moron hex is the best
may as well just use a completely circular bit
Torx is ok on, say, decking or outdoor buildings. On everything else? Frick you use a Philips.
torx is better on electronics
The drive bits in a snap on hex socket are made by Zephyr. They’re the best, even better than Apex.
No impact bit set is worth $500 for 11 bits.
If you break em as often as OP does it might be.