Is that a donut spare? If I had to guess, the rim is a rusty piece of shit and has corroded so it no longer seats against the tire bead. You might be able to salvage it by deflating the tire, prying the bead back from the rim, sanding off the corrosion and smoothing the rim back out, and reinflating. But, that thing looks like it's had it and if it's so crusty it's starting to leak it might fail badly if you ever drive on it.
Real pro here. Here's what's the problem and how you can fix it:
Your rim is rusty as shit. Your tire is seated on the rim "outer highpoint" and held secure by the "lower highpoint" or "hump".
The rust on the outer highpoint prevents a sealing over the rubber area.
What you gotta do is clean the outer highpoint (where the rubber sits most outside) with some sand paper. Grit 100-200 should be enough.
To get to the rim you need to let all the air out of the tire, get yourself a valve-remover (a bunch of bucks). It's like a screw driver to remove or install the valve inlet.
After the air is completely out you can press the rubber back onto the hump. In the tire shop the tire is pressed with a machine over the hump but I doubt you are able to do that yourself. >Inb4 OP didn't understand shit
He doesn't need to remove the tire, he can just press it back a bit to get to the rusted area to sand it. It's Africa-tier but it will work. Bonus points if he manages to spray paint into the gap.
I am the guy you are replying to, not OP, but it makes me all warm and fuzzy that someone is giving actual good advice on this shit site. Though I guess diy has always been pretty ok.
>to get to the rusted area to sand it
OP here. Do I need to put some sealant? >It's Africa-tier but it will work
Good. I need 3 months. I'm waiting for a new car.
Also, it's not a donut spare.
No. It's pressure sealed under very high pressure. The problem is that it's not a snug fit, just sand it. I am the other guy, not the one you are asking.
He doesn't need to remove the tire, he can just press it back a bit to get to the rusted area to sand it. It's Africa-tier but it will work. Bonus points if he manages to spray paint into the gap.
someone should fund a study by some whiz bang university like harvard that finds that road salt is extremely harmful and detrimental to the environment
then they will be forced to stop doing it
they do studies and most say salt is destructive to all infrastructure. however salt is cheap as frick amd employs a ton of boys underground, so nothing is done. if you wanna grasp at straws talk about how salt fricks corn, maybe someone will listen.
rust where the rubber seals against the rim at the bead like the other anon said. you can sand it down and hate life trying to reseat the tire, or shell out the money for a new tire and rim. it's hateful without the right tools my guy.
slime doesnt do rim leak, you have a small puncture that was in the treads that you couldnt see. no product fixes rim leak except elbow grease and knowledge.
I've had some bead leaks on rims and one thing I do before tearing it down is hit it with soapy water to see exactly where the leak is, and then hitting the tire with a deadblow hammer while still inflated in the vicinity of the leak. Hit the rim, hit the sidewall of the tire, hit the tread of the tire in that spot, etc. Sometimes you just get some shit in there and bouncing it like that can help expel it out of the bead area and get it to seat.
If that doesn't work deflate it, break it down and wire brush it clean. They make bead sealant which is a black tar like substance in a can with a brush on the lid...
Pic rel is my tire machine. I've changed and fixed more tires in my lifetime than I care to think about...
Just had to use this bad boy last night to mount 4 new tires on my pickup. Was hoping to get another 5000 miles out of the current tires, but two of them were almost bald, and yesterday I had a sharp rock poke a nice big hole through one of those. I didn't feel like fricking with patching those worn out tires any more so it got a new set put on, and I have 2 more spares for the tire pile.
Thanks anon. I'm actually going to be making a new tire rack here soon and going to go with a triple level and longer and move it around to the back side of a hayshed I have to clear up more room in the lean-to of my shop... Constantly plugging away at re-organizing stuff.
Those are actually implement tires or tractor front tires. We did use to have some surplus aircraft tires that we would put on tractor fronts, but the local supply for them dried up.
It does sometimes but online supplier exist so checkem.
t.retired engine puke/crew chief etc.
Also check out Farm Show, it's worth a year sub after which it kinda gets redundant but the back issue DVD is worth it too. You're the kind of gearhead who will enjoy the mix of simple and hardcore tech tips with pics.
Op, you said you need three months.
Good, low skill things to do: play with soapy water and hammer. Dont bother hitting the rim, just like, smash/bop/hit the tire from light to HARD right above and around the leak with a hammer. Youll prolly hear little burps of air as you do it. This usually works more with a tire that has just been seated and is leaking, but might work.
A real good shot would be fix a flat, or slime or whatever, then put the rim horizontal, leak side down, shake it a bit and let it lay flat for an hour or so. You need to get the goop in a literal puddle on the leak for this to work on a rim like this, so prop it at a teeny angle or however you need to.
For three months I'd have the tire removed at a tire shop for a few dollars, then wire brush and sand the inside of the rim and brush paint or heavily spray it for a smooth sealing surface and remount the tire if in good condition or throw on a used tire if not. I've done this several times over many years. Works fine.
Is that a donut spare? If I had to guess, the rim is a rusty piece of shit and has corroded so it no longer seats against the tire bead. You might be able to salvage it by deflating the tire, prying the bead back from the rim, sanding off the corrosion and smoothing the rim back out, and reinflating. But, that thing looks like it's had it and if it's so crusty it's starting to leak it might fail badly if you ever drive on it.
Real pro here. Here's what's the problem and how you can fix it:
Your rim is rusty as shit. Your tire is seated on the rim "outer highpoint" and held secure by the "lower highpoint" or "hump".
The rust on the outer highpoint prevents a sealing over the rubber area.
What you gotta do is clean the outer highpoint (where the rubber sits most outside) with some sand paper. Grit 100-200 should be enough.
To get to the rim you need to let all the air out of the tire, get yourself a valve-remover (a bunch of bucks). It's like a screw driver to remove or install the valve inlet.
After the air is completely out you can press the rubber back onto the hump. In the tire shop the tire is pressed with a machine over the hump but I doubt you are able to do that yourself.
>Inb4 OP didn't understand shit
> Does it worth the effort?
Probably not unless you are completely broke. See:
What he didn't say is how much of a pain taking the tire off / putting it on without special tools is.
He doesn't need to remove the tire, he can just press it back a bit to get to the rusted area to sand it. It's Africa-tier but it will work. Bonus points if he manages to spray paint into the gap.
I am the guy you are replying to, not OP, but it makes me all warm and fuzzy that someone is giving actual good advice on this shit site. Though I guess diy has always been pretty ok.
>to get to the rusted area to sand it
OP here. Do I need to put some sealant?
>It's Africa-tier but it will work
Good. I need 3 months. I'm waiting for a new car.
Also, it's not a donut spare.
No. It's pressure sealed under very high pressure. The problem is that it's not a snug fit, just sand it. I am the other guy, not the one you are asking.
No sealant needed, just be thorough with the sanding.
>spray paint
Just use some bead sealer after cleaning.
>What he didn't say is how much of a pain taking the tire off / putting it on without special tools is.
This guy seems to improvise
OP here. It's fixed.
I follow both
and used water/soap to test.
Thank you PrepHole.
atta boy, im curious to see how long it will hold
yay 🙂
Pick-a-part types of scrapyards often have a manual tire changer available for free.
salt should be illegal to use on roads.
They should salt the earth instead.
someone should fund a study by some whiz bang university like harvard that finds that road salt is extremely harmful and detrimental to the environment
then they will be forced to stop doing it
salt is racist and needs to be canceled
lol because everyone know how effective these studies are at halting climate change right chuddy?
they do studies and most say salt is destructive to all infrastructure. however salt is cheap as frick amd employs a ton of boys underground, so nothing is done. if you wanna grasp at straws talk about how salt fricks corn, maybe someone will listen.
Only studies that make lots of money for someone that matters count. Its the law
rust where the rubber seals against the rim at the bead like the other anon said. you can sand it down and hate life trying to reseat the tire, or shell out the money for a new tire and rim. it's hateful without the right tools my guy.
use tire slime, the kind in the compressed can. it fixed my rim leak immediately going on a year now
slime doesnt do rim leak, you have a small puncture that was in the treads that you couldnt see. no product fixes rim leak except elbow grease and knowledge.
that's what the can says but it fixed mine anyway
I've had some bead leaks on rims and one thing I do before tearing it down is hit it with soapy water to see exactly where the leak is, and then hitting the tire with a deadblow hammer while still inflated in the vicinity of the leak. Hit the rim, hit the sidewall of the tire, hit the tread of the tire in that spot, etc. Sometimes you just get some shit in there and bouncing it like that can help expel it out of the bead area and get it to seat.
If that doesn't work deflate it, break it down and wire brush it clean. They make bead sealant which is a black tar like substance in a can with a brush on the lid...
Pic rel is my tire machine. I've changed and fixed more tires in my lifetime than I care to think about...
Just had to use this bad boy last night to mount 4 new tires on my pickup. Was hoping to get another 5000 miles out of the current tires, but two of them were almost bald, and yesterday I had a sharp rock poke a nice big hole through one of those. I didn't feel like fricking with patching those worn out tires any more so it got a new set put on, and I have 2 more spares for the tire pile.
Nice rack. Nice aircraft rib surplus or recaps too.
Thanks anon. I'm actually going to be making a new tire rack here soon and going to go with a triple level and longer and move it around to the back side of a hayshed I have to clear up more room in the lean-to of my shop... Constantly plugging away at re-organizing stuff.
Those are actually implement tires or tractor front tires. We did use to have some surplus aircraft tires that we would put on tractor fronts, but the local supply for them dried up.
It does sometimes but online supplier exist so checkem.
t.retired engine puke/crew chief etc.
Also check out Farm Show, it's worth a year sub after which it kinda gets redundant but the back issue DVD is worth it too. You're the kind of gearhead who will enjoy the mix of simple and hardcore tech tips with pics.
Op, you said you need three months.
Good, low skill things to do: play with soapy water and hammer. Dont bother hitting the rim, just like, smash/bop/hit the tire from light to HARD right above and around the leak with a hammer. Youll prolly hear little burps of air as you do it. This usually works more with a tire that has just been seated and is leaking, but might work.
A real good shot would be fix a flat, or slime or whatever, then put the rim horizontal, leak side down, shake it a bit and let it lay flat for an hour or so. You need to get the goop in a literal puddle on the leak for this to work on a rim like this, so prop it at a teeny angle or however you need to.
For three months I'd have the tire removed at a tire shop for a few dollars, then wire brush and sand the inside of the rim and brush paint or heavily spray it for a smooth sealing surface and remount the tire if in good condition or throw on a used tire if not. I've done this several times over many years. Works fine.
dude, throw that rim in the scrap bin, what the frick
did you store it at the bottom of the ocean?
how poor are you?