Depends what you're asking. The compressor isn't breaking because it suddenly has the same refrigerant it's used to pumping, but with an odor that represents some level of non-condensable, but regardless, still not as offensive as not having it running; which is the literal problem in some of Appalachia right now.
>not having it running
this is how people here break their cars AC,
they turn it off to save fuel, then when they want to turn it on on really hot summer days its broken.
just leave the cars AC on and on Automatic and adjust the temperature to your need.
Apparently kettle do it all the time
It's apparently a drop-in replacement for r12,
Some kids running r410a dehumidifiers with propane,
And apparently you can run r134a with fricking canned air duster instead for mad gains, guess canned air is actually r152 or some shit
Apparently kettle do it all the time
It's apparently a drop-in replacement for r12,
Some kids running r410a dehumidifiers with propane,
And apparently you can run r134a with fricking canned air duster instead for mad gains, guess canned air is actually r152 or some shit
Apparently kettle do it all the time
It's apparently a drop-in replacement for r12,
Some kids running r410a dehumidifiers with propane,
And apparently you can run r134a with fricking canned air duster instead for mad gains, guess canned air is actually r152 or some shit
The UV dye is my preferred choice now. Saved hundreds on parts with it. Last one was a power steering leak and everybody wanted to replace the pump but it was a simple o-ring.
I have a tractor that i need to put some dye in to find the leak... I have never messed with the dye before. Good to know you have good luck with it. I do have some dye, an injector, and a uv flashlight so i think i should be all set!
Damn thing leaks down fairly quickly but i cannot find the leak with soapy water...
I have a tractor that i need to put some dye in to find the leak... I have never messed with the dye before. Good to know you have good luck with it. I do have some dye, an injector, and a uv flashlight so i think i should be all set!
Damn thing leaks down fairly quickly but i cannot find the leak with soapy water...
Whatever you do, avoid refrig with stop leak like the fricking plague as it will rape the TXV.
Depends on the outside temperature, when it's +40C outside it takes up to 6 or 7 minutes maybe. When it's in the 30's it's pretty much instant.
I imagine your evap core under the dash is clean?
>I'm dealing with a r134 system that takes 20 minutes to start cooling the car down
Clean the condenser. Use dish soap in a spray bottle and a gentle stream of water.
I have a 20 ish year old York home AC unit that has stopped working. I can hear everything running properly, but it doesn’t blow cold air inside or warm air outside.
But....
The compressor sounds different then my next door neighbour’s unit. It’s like a motor running under load versus a motor running under no load. Mine is sounding like it is running under no load.
My compressor is broken inside? Or does this sound like the run capacitor is bad?
If capacitor was bad it wouldn't start, did capacitor was failing compressor would have a shorter life
If fan blowing outside?
If yes, hours probably low of refrigerant, don't want to breathe that stuff.
Topping up will make it cold but probably cause cancer in 5 years
You need to fix the leak, or switch to propane or duster which is a bit safer to breathe
What's the sticker say your unit is charged with
If your refrigerant is low in the cooling cycle, your indoor coil should be freezing up or the copper loops at the top of the evaporator coil (indoor unit coil) should be not sweating. By top I mean the ones higher up from the ground. If your compressor is bad you should see zero sweat on any of the evaporator coil copper loops, because the refrigerant is not moving. Consider it like a can of pop you just pulled out of the fridge and how it sweats or how you check how much propane is inside a tank, same concept This is considering that your outdoor unit is still running,
If your refrigerant is low, first check your drain pan of the evaporator coil in the indoor unit, if it feels or looks like there's oil, it's the coil. Meaning if it's a small leak (shoot r22 dye in it through the common suction port with gauges), charge it. If it's not you're going to have to get an old coil and get it installed or a whole new system (I already know it's an R22 system).
Here's how you check if the compressor is dead. Take a meter, clamp the ammeter on the wires coming off of the capacitor on the outdoor unit (don't touch the capacitor or the contactor and don't touch the red thermostat wire to the blue or black one). You should have your fan running, which would be lower than the FLA on the nameplate. The compressor amperage should be higher than the FLA but lower than the RLA. If you can't find that the compressor is kill or out on internal overload if it's hot to the touch.
Oh yeah, almost forgot on the compressor bit, check to see if there are any burnt wires on the outdoor unit, either behind the service panel (5/16th nut driver) or check the ohms on the plug sticking out of compressor with the wires on it. Don't forget to pull the disconnect before you do. Alternatively you could need a hard start kit and I know this is DIY, but don't do that yourself. Also if you haven't worked on anything electrical before, disregard both my posts. I don't want you to have a nice day.
Hopefully it's just a simple burnt wire or the compressor terminal plug needs changed. https://www.electricalonline4u.com/2016/11/test-check-compressor-windings.html
Lastly, one more thing, check to see if your coil is dirty or the filter. If its the coil use a toilet brush to gently clean it of debree. Then buy a can of no rinse coil cleaner and soak it on the fins. I didn't consider that you could have a quieter outdoor unit and maybe it's just that you don't change filters often. If you can't afford filters, get something called hog hair.
>Not buying the foaming type and rinsing it like a pro
Fricking your "condenser cleaner" labeling bullshit. I'm spraying that shit on the evaporator and rinsing it well. And by rinsing, I mean running a hose literally from any the frick where, to coil.
I've heard horror stories of dumb dumbs filling their car ACs with propane and then setting themselves on fire if there's a leak or accident, etc. Isn't it illegal due to fire Hazard not functionality?
>dumb dumbs filling their car ACs with propane and then setting themselves on fire if there's a leak or acciden
Do you wanna breathe a whole bunch of propane or a whole bunch of r12/r134
>Qrd on that stuff
Rather than just use a couple hundred grams of propane in a vehicle that already can carry 100 kg of flammable (or inflammable) liquid, we are going to save the environment with toxic refrigerant technology.
The joke is all these new hyper-formulated refrigerants that break down quickly so they have a low "GWP" are actually infinitely more toxic to health in a myriad of other ways. But it's okay as long as mother earth is safe.
>fridge not working >breaker tripped >go poke around with multimeter >live is shorted to earth on the plug >poke around some more >defroster coil has a fault >shrug, unplug the defroster and keep using it
that was like 2 years ago
then, differnet frige, this happen ed today >go get milk out of fridge for breakfast >milk is warm >BLECH.MP4 >shit, gotta go to work > get back >poke around with multimeter >compressor isnt getting power >thermostats fricked >shrug, bypass the thermostat with an extra wire and put the fridge on a $15 mechanical timer >15 minutes on, 30 minutes off, plus a couple ziplock bags full of water to keep the temperature more stable >buy $12 thermostat on ebay, it'll be here in a couple weeks to fix it properly
hvac Black folk are literally scamming
they are just electricians who get paid to dianogsse the simplest issues readily apparent to a random guy with a multimeter(me)
>I mean if you want to brick your unit go ahead
Yet another HVAC Black person scaremongering tactic. >oh no no no no if you fix it like that it'll BREAK again omggggg you have to hire a professhunul like ME for $10000 to fix the problem
nah bro, I think my repair is gonna last another 5-10 years
Oh no, he is using fricking fuel-grade propane to fill his shitty AC with gas instead of R22. Now I am gonna go bankrupt
>To fill his everything
>You can buy pure refrigerant grade propane without a loicense
Well, refrigerant grade propane is expensive.
more expensive than a compressor?
Depends what you're asking. The compressor isn't breaking because it suddenly has the same refrigerant it's used to pumping, but with an odor that represents some level of non-condensable, but regardless, still not as offensive as not having it running; which is the literal problem in some of Appalachia right now.
>not having it running
this is how people here break their cars AC,
they turn it off to save fuel, then when they want to turn it on on really hot summer days its broken.
just leave the cars AC on and on Automatic and adjust the temperature to your need.
Butane? More like israelitetane, am I right?
I hope somebody tries this. And I hope it leaves a crater.
Has anyone ever fricked DC fridge? can one be made that runs off ammonia?
Apparently kettle do it all the time
It's apparently a drop-in replacement for r12,
Some kids running r410a dehumidifiers with propane,
And apparently you can run r134a with fricking canned air duster instead for mad gains, guess canned air is actually r152 or some shit
R152a is a fantastic r12 replacement. I've used it on multiple r12 cars with great results. R134a conversion usually requires a bigger condenser
Boss level talk right here.
The UV dye is my preferred choice now. Saved hundreds on parts with it. Last one was a power steering leak and everybody wanted to replace the pump but it was a simple o-ring.
I have a tractor that i need to put some dye in to find the leak... I have never messed with the dye before. Good to know you have good luck with it. I do have some dye, an injector, and a uv flashlight so i think i should be all set!
Damn thing leaks down fairly quickly but i cannot find the leak with soapy water...
Dye is great. Complete darkness when inspecting helps as does a bright UV light.
Put it under water and pump the system up with an air compressor
Whatever you do, avoid refrig with stop leak like the fricking plague as it will rape the TXV.
idk it fixed my car leaking without any problems.
Got hydrocarbon refrigerant in my old R12 A/C system, works a treat.
What's the temp it's blowing? Colder than r12 or little warmer?
How's it compare to an r134 systems temp
It's in my car, 4 degrees C at the vents
>, 4 degrees C
Fug
How longs it take to start blowing cold?
I never knew r12, I'm dealing with a r134 system that takes 20 minutes to start cooling the car down
Depends on the outside temperature, when it's +40C outside it takes up to 6 or 7 minutes maybe. When it's in the 30's it's pretty much instant.
I imagine your evap core under the dash is clean?
Probably not, I just had to recharge the system, I don't know anything about the state of it or if is even going to work today
>I'm dealing with a r134 system that takes 20 minutes to start cooling the car down
Clean the condenser. Use dish soap in a spray bottle and a gentle stream of water.
I'll check it out, thanks
I have a 20 ish year old York home AC unit that has stopped working. I can hear everything running properly, but it doesn’t blow cold air inside or warm air outside.
But....
The compressor sounds different then my next door neighbour’s unit. It’s like a motor running under load versus a motor running under no load. Mine is sounding like it is running under no load.
My compressor is broken inside? Or does this sound like the run capacitor is bad?
If capacitor was bad it wouldn't start, did capacitor was failing compressor would have a shorter life
If fan blowing outside?
If yes, hours probably low of refrigerant, don't want to breathe that stuff.
Topping up will make it cold but probably cause cancer in 5 years
You need to fix the leak, or switch to propane or duster which is a bit safer to breathe
What's the sticker say your unit is charged with
>If fan blowing outside?
Yes it is.
>probably low of refrigerant
Crap.
>Low refrigerant.
Crap.
Not what I wanted to hear..
>Mine is sounding like it is running under no load.
Low refrigerant.
If your refrigerant is low in the cooling cycle, your indoor coil should be freezing up or the copper loops at the top of the evaporator coil (indoor unit coil) should be not sweating. By top I mean the ones higher up from the ground. If your compressor is bad you should see zero sweat on any of the evaporator coil copper loops, because the refrigerant is not moving. Consider it like a can of pop you just pulled out of the fridge and how it sweats or how you check how much propane is inside a tank, same concept This is considering that your outdoor unit is still running,
If your refrigerant is low, first check your drain pan of the evaporator coil in the indoor unit, if it feels or looks like there's oil, it's the coil. Meaning if it's a small leak (shoot r22 dye in it through the common suction port with gauges), charge it. If it's not you're going to have to get an old coil and get it installed or a whole new system (I already know it's an R22 system).
Here's how you check if the compressor is dead. Take a meter, clamp the ammeter on the wires coming off of the capacitor on the outdoor unit (don't touch the capacitor or the contactor and don't touch the red thermostat wire to the blue or black one). You should have your fan running, which would be lower than the FLA on the nameplate. The compressor amperage should be higher than the FLA but lower than the RLA. If you can't find that the compressor is kill or out on internal overload if it's hot to the touch.
Oh yeah, almost forgot on the compressor bit, check to see if there are any burnt wires on the outdoor unit, either behind the service panel (5/16th nut driver) or check the ohms on the plug sticking out of compressor with the wires on it. Don't forget to pull the disconnect before you do. Alternatively you could need a hard start kit and I know this is DIY, but don't do that yourself. Also if you haven't worked on anything electrical before, disregard both my posts. I don't want you to have a nice day.
Hopefully it's just a simple burnt wire or the compressor terminal plug needs changed. https://www.electricalonline4u.com/2016/11/test-check-compressor-windings.html
Lastly, one more thing, check to see if your coil is dirty or the filter. If its the coil use a toilet brush to gently clean it of debree. Then buy a can of no rinse coil cleaner and soak it on the fins. I didn't consider that you could have a quieter outdoor unit and maybe it's just that you don't change filters often. If you can't afford filters, get something called hog hair.
>Not buying the foaming type and rinsing it like a pro
Fricking your "condenser cleaner" labeling bullshit. I'm spraying that shit on the evaporator and rinsing it well. And by rinsing, I mean running a hose literally from any the frick where, to coil.
You're a tard, but go ahead, you probably needed a change out anyways.
Why does r11 come in barrels not a bottle
I've heard horror stories of dumb dumbs filling their car ACs with propane and then setting themselves on fire if there's a leak or accident, etc. Isn't it illegal due to fire Hazard not functionality?
>dumb dumbs filling their car ACs with propane and then setting themselves on fire if there's a leak or acciden
Do you wanna breathe a whole bunch of propane or a whole bunch of r12/r134
and the new climate friendly R1234yf creates Hydrogen fluoride and Carbonyl fluoride when it burns.
Qrd on that stuff
>Qrd on that stuff
Rather than just use a couple hundred grams of propane in a vehicle that already can carry 100 kg of flammable (or inflammable) liquid, we are going to save the environment with toxic refrigerant technology.
The joke is all these new hyper-formulated refrigerants that break down quickly so they have a low "GWP" are actually infinitely more toxic to health in a myriad of other ways. But it's okay as long as mother earth is safe.
>fridge not working
>breaker tripped
>go poke around with multimeter
>live is shorted to earth on the plug
>poke around some more
>defroster coil has a fault
>shrug, unplug the defroster and keep using it
that was like 2 years ago
then, differnet frige, this happen ed today
>go get milk out of fridge for breakfast
>milk is warm
>BLECH.MP4
>shit, gotta go to work
> get back
>poke around with multimeter
>compressor isnt getting power
>thermostats fricked
>shrug, bypass the thermostat with an extra wire and put the fridge on a $15 mechanical timer
>15 minutes on, 30 minutes off, plus a couple ziplock bags full of water to keep the temperature more stable
>buy $12 thermostat on ebay, it'll be here in a couple weeks to fix it properly
hvac Black folk are literally scamming
they are just electricians who get paid to dianogsse the simplest issues readily apparent to a random guy with a multimeter(me)
I mean if you want to brick your unit go ahead. A refrigerator is a lot different than a heat pump or oil furnace.
>I mean if you want to brick your unit go ahead
Yet another HVAC Black person scaremongering tactic.
>oh no no no no if you fix it like that it'll BREAK again omggggg you have to hire a professhunul like ME for $10000 to fix the problem
nah bro, I think my repair is gonna last another 5-10 years
Change outs cost around 7-12 thousand anon, naughty, naughty.
are you bragging about being too poor to just buy a new fridge?
Won't the car explode?
Knew a guy with a diesel suburban with a propane charged AC
shit was cash
>only a 2 gauge setup
ngmi
What more does he need
Clamp temperature probes.
3 gauges
What's the third one for?