The sink and piping in our kitchen is from a home reno from the previous owners, its about ten years old. It's had a very slow dribble leak where the p trap joins the tailpiece for years, at the slip nut. Recently the leak got worse, and its now also leaking from the other end of the p trap that joins the wall pipe.
Questions...
-Nothing is metal, so there is nothing to rust, how is it leaking through the plastic? There also seems to be corrosion around the slip-nuts, which makes no sense as they are plastic.
-Is this a simple task of taking it apart, cleaning it, and putting it back, or do I need to purchase new parts?
-I assume its just screwing parts together, no plumbers tape needed I assume, or sealants?
-While I have the p trap off, I want to stick something up the tailpiece to clean the gunk out, any suggestions? I heard a bottle brush might work, tho it might cause a mess.
Both slip nuts appear to be leaking at the top and bottom.
Probably got something to do with the mushrooms growing out of your trap.
But yeah, just clean it and reassemble. Compression fittings shouldn't require thread tape
>Compression fittings shouldn't require thread tape
Okay.
We have a water softener though.
> Compression fittings shouldn't require thread tape
It doesn’t hurt though.
Also, lots of picrel.
Hack job. The nut in compression fittings is bringing the mating parts together. If your part is so crummy that a little lube makes it tighten more, you oughta replace the part instead.
>It doesn’t hurt though.
yes it does cuck
it's plastic
if you add dope or tape, it will make it very easy to over tighten the joint and crack the fittings
quit larping and let the real plumbers answer the OP
Oh god, yes… call a plumber at 100 x markup and needlessly replace everything back to the sewer with 3” iron pipe….
…for something a child could do.
I THINK you're looking at a water leak with a super-high mineral content and you've got a "stalactite" situation going on.
>I THINK you're looking at a water leak with a super-high mineral content
That's not minerals, that's old food and fat seeping out of the pipe and solidifying.
its probably not screwed tightly enough
its under the sink so people dont pay attention and just assume its too technical for them
but that kind of leak can frick your house up over time. the grime proves no one is paying attention or taking responsibility for it. just go clean it and tighten it asap.
OP here.
What should have been an easy fix that only took a few hours has now turned into a multi day ordeal. I am tired both psychically and mentally, and have wasted alot of time, gas and money. Nothing is fixed and I am royally pissed off.
On Monday I took everything apart, spent a good amount of time removing all the gunky buildup in the pipes, running back and forth to the tub to clean them, and assembled everything back together with the new slip nut and washer. But it leaked at where the tailpiece met the extension piece that's on the p trap. I ran hot water, made it tighter, still leaked. It leaked worse than before I took it apart. Took it apart again, I reused the old washer from the old slip nut thinking that might be better as it felt softer. Put it all back, still leaked. Put everything back with the new washer again, double checked everything, made tight, still leaked.
I went out to the local hardware store, bought a new p trap and extension piece where the old one had been purchased about ten years ago. I went to another store and purchased another a slip nut by another manufacturer along with pipe dope if I needed it. Tried the new slip nut, doesn't fit, despite being 1 1/2 size.
I tried to install the new p trap, but it doesn't thread into the piece that's coming out of the wall! This new p trap is made by a different manufacture than the old one.
I thought about reusing the old p trap and using pipe dope this time to seal it, and that’s when I noticed something I had missed the entire day like a dumbass - there was a small vertical crack in the extension piece, where it was joined when it was made. That's why it leaked even with a new slip nut. The reason why it leaks even worse now when put together is that I assume all the gunk pipes was sort of sealing it a bit.
I would gladly reuse the old p trap, as it’s the small extension piece that’s cracked and not the trap, the problem is that it was sealed in with a type of product that melts ABS together when used.
I can’t use the new p-trap, because it doesn’t thread into the wall pipe. The new p trap does come with a new adaptor for the wall pipe, but this is where it gets out of my skill level, and I would need to call in a plumber.
Today I drove all over the fricking place, trying to find a NOS p trap by the original company that made mine. Went to a plumping supply store and another large hardware store. Nothing, its all the newer brand, and I was told at both places its common for threads to be different from manufactures and that you need to install the new adaptor for the new p trap onto the old pipe – cut off the old one and back plumb it onto the wall pipe. This is something I didn’t want messed with because the line for our drinking water system is spliced into this wall pipe. Drove to another plumbing place that specializes in old parts, and they were of no help.
Now I ordered online the part I need, but the problem with this is that there is no guarantee that it will be the part by the brand I need, even though it says the proper brand, picture and model number on the site. Could be old stock, could be something newer from a different manufacture. Either way, I am just left waiting now. I have no sink to use and had to shut off the drinking water system as well. I got a bad feeling I’m going to have to break down and call in a plumber, which I really didn’t want to do, but I am at my wits end already. I wish I never touched this shit, should have just tighten it up and left it alone, put a bucket underneath and been done with it.
> left alone
I would gave taken them off, soaked them in vinegar to remove the scale, and slathered everything with that blue, plastic-safe pipe dope, and put em back on.
I’m surprised with all that mineral scale that ir didn’t seal itself. Maybe you didn’t leave it long enough.
> Water softener
Scam
>soaked them in vinegar to remove the scale
Thanks for not paying attention. There was never any scale, just soap scum build up.
>and slathered everything with that blue, plastic-safe pipe dope, and put em back on.
That won't help with a cracked piece.
>Scam
I see I'm dealing with a moron here.
I already cleaned out the pieces and don't really need to replace what's not needed to replace.
>Regarding threads, yes. Threads specific to parts are generally not regarded as interchangeable.
Well that sucks.
>You're really making this more complicated than necessary.
If that part comes in that I ordered and its actually the proper brand and thread on the p trap, I can reassemble it with a new extension and slip nut and it should work fine.
>You just need to cut the pipe behind the siphon. Hacksaw it.
As I said before, we are heading into territory I get worried with plus my drinking water system line is there, I don't have alot of room or pipe to play with.
Here is a guide of things.
You have no business doing any of this if you're that worried about it all. It can all be fixed no matter how bad you frick it up, you just may need a professional to fix it for you after you've mangled it all to hell.
If you're dead set on diy plumbing, use the interwebs to look at lots of proper setups, become familiar with common practice and setups, walk the aisles at the hardware store to learn what parts are available and play with them to see how they might fit together. Being self taught requires lots of time and lots of frick ups.
You can get a set of washers for all those pieces for like $10 at the hardware store.
Take everything apart and clean all the gross off and put new washers on.
The problem here is either a dead washer at that first gross joint, or maybe it was just never tightened enough because there's no fingertip wingnuts on it.
Never been lucky enough to have a clean out, it's probably a flat washer?
you can get all new parts for $14
Hello. Are you still waiting on that part?
It's amazing to me how many people chime in with their advice without properly reading the thread. I am trying to find an older model P trap that has the proper threading on the union/coupling/washer that matches the elbow piece on the wall pipe, because otherwise it doesn't thread onto the elbow piece on the wall pipe. If I can't find it, I will need to call in a plumber to take off the old elbow on the wall pipe because it goes beyond my skill level, that way a newer P trap with different threading can be installed.
And like I said before, its leaking from a crack in the extension piece that is glued onto the P trap, where it joins the tail piece. I'd love to reuse the old trap, but can't because the old cracked extension is glued together to the P trap. I was told a type of glue was used that melts ABS together.
Well, here is what happened. I got the part in yesterday (from a big box hardware store). It showed a picture online of the older P trap like mine with the older logo on it (circle logo). Parts number matched. I get the part, the brand name is the same, however it has an oval logo and its the same P trap with a different threading and different brand name I got from the local hardware store. I already returned it. It goes like this, in terms of the manufacturing of these P traps:
-10 year old-ish part from house, P trap with circle logo.
-P trap with the same brand as above, but different logo (oval), and different threads.
-P trap with different brand name as above, same oval logo, same threads.
I am currently looking online country wide for any possible NOS P traps with the older circle logo with the threading I need, but the situation is not looking good.
I'm not having any issues with that area, why are people telling me to replace parts I don't need and "oh just rip everything out and start over". No, that is not an acceptable answer and you are one of many people who are not helping.
>I get the part, the brand name is the same
Also adding here, the parts number printed oto the part ordered online was exactly the same as my old part. Which is a motherfricker. Claims its the same part, but the threads changed in the manufacturing process at some point.
I was online trying to find what I need and one other person who left a review for this P trap on some site from 3-4 years ago expressed the same problems, that the threads changed.
>-10 year old-ish part from house, P trap with circle logo.
>-P trap with the same brand as above, but different logo (oval), and different threads.
>-P trap with different brand name as above, same oval logo, same threads.
Here is a photo. My part is on the left.
You can see mine has a slightly thicker union / coupling / nut on it (I used the word washer before, that's incorrect), indicating the thread difference.
It having a clean out doesn't matter, I'd take either, as long as it has the correct threads.
It’s interesting that they made:
(1) the most obviously homeowner user-serviceable area, and
(2) fittings most prone to breakage, damage, or need of replacement
Totally incompatible and anti-standardized!
Even with the same manufacturer over time.
Absolutely brilliant. All the hidden/glued stuff is standardized to the nth-degree over 50 years.
>a different threading
I fricking told you they are part-specific, and not built to some standard, but you would not listen. You think you know what you're doing but you'd rather have it your own way than listening to what people who do it on the regular have to tell you.
>beyond my paygrade
A hacksaw, ABS cement and a coupling is beyond what you can figure out? I guess you're not as smart as a plumber then. It's 2024, there's probably a thousand YouTube videos that will tell you how to do that but here you are making a fricking thread about it. What's the point of this post if you're gonna do it your own way anyhow?
Trolling is a art.
>I fricking told you they are part-specific, and not built to some standard, but you would not listen.
You are not listening either, if you bothered to read any of my above posts about ordering the part that matched the same parts number and brand name, only for the threading to be different on the p trap union/coupling. Again today, I drove to another store that had some dusty old stock of plumbing ABS parts. Same brand as my part that was installed, same parts numbers, but the threads were different on the p trap union. Sure, they were old parts, but not old enough.
I went to Home Depot today, and its all the exact same shit, just different branding! Its as if the brand names don’t even matter, at some point the factory where all of these pieces are pumped out changed the threading on the P trap couplings maybe 5-8 years ago, and now none of the newer parts will thread into the elbow attached to the wall pipe.
>You think you know what you're doing
Never said I did, that’s why I posted here.
>is beyond what you can figure out? I guess you're not as smart as a plumber then.
Holy frick you moron, I never said or implied anywhere I was as smart as a plumber, what the frick is with your berating attitude? I already admitted up front I don’t know much about this stuff, and yeah I don’t want to attempt to replumb because of reasons I have already stated, if anyone here could read worth a damn.
>there's probably a thousand YouTube videos that will tell you how to do that but here you are making a fricking thread about it. What's the point of this post if you're gonna do it your own way anyhow?
What’s the point of anyone posting anything on this board, with your shitty attitude? Yeah so what there’s lot of videos online, doesn’t mean I have the confidence to backplumb. If I could find the older p trap with the threads I need, I wouldn’t have to.
CONT...
Holy shit anon. I know you know nothing about this. You know that you know nothing. Everyone here knows you know nothing, but you act like you know what you are doing. You seem to think that getting a replacement slip nut for p-trap is something that someone might do, despite half a dozen anons (half of PrepHole) telling you it's a stupid thing to do. If I worked at a plumbing house and called to ask about the width of the slip nut on the p-trap, I'd hang up on you. You are beyond helping. You spent more time and gas money than you would have on parts and reading about how to do this shit right. Frick it up and it still leaks? Try again. You could try it ten times and still come within a fraction of what a plumber would charge you for EASY WORK. ABS drains are the outlet replacement of the plumbing world. Go ahead and do what this other guy is telling you to do with the hose clamp and come back in 8 months having to fix it again. Hope you save this thread as reference.
It's on purpose so someone like OP can use it to tighten the slip coupling they repaired with glue when it breaks. You know it's a frequent occurrence
> It's on purpose so someone like OP can use it to tighten the slip coupling they repaired with glue when it breaks. You know it's a frequent occurrence
Man youre good…..pass
>but you act like you know what you are doing.
No I don't. I said this is foreign territory for me. Where I am getting ticked off, is that people are not reading what I am typing. And on top of it, giving me a shitty attitude.
>getting a replacement slip nut for p-trap is something that someone might do, despite half a dozen anons (half of PrepHole) telling you it's a stupid thing to do.
Again, I state, I needed a new slip nut because the old one was broken all around the top, that is why soap scum/fat was leaking out of it (OP pic). I assumed that was the problem of the slow leak. Of course after I took it all apart, I noticed the crack in the p trap adapter. My guess is whoever installed these parts years ago over tightened the slip nut causing it and the adapter on the p trap to split/break.
>the width of the slip nut on the p-trap, I'd hang up on you.
I never asked that, all you're doing is bringing me a shitty attitude, and if you worked in customer service, you'd be fired.
>You are beyond helping.
Is all of PrepHole like you? No need to be such a smug butthole. I've stated my problems, people can't read the problems, and that's it.
>Go ahead and do what this other guy is telling you to do with the hose clamp and come back in 8 months having to fix it again.
If you bothered to read anything properly, I told him I can't use the clamp there, but you are not listening. I am only resorting to fixing the crack because I cannot find a NOS ten year old p trap with the threads I need on the coupling that match the threads onto the wall pipe. Do you need me to type it in another language for you?
Read the damn thread.
I'm slowly getting fed up. And again, its not because I know what I am talking about regarding the skill of plumbing, its that anons are glossing over all the details regarding the problems I have described here.
Its got nothing to do with that.
I have a simple solution without readingbthe whole damn thread.
Walk slowly to the front door and open it.
Now carefully traverse the 3 steps from your trailer.
Sachet across the gravel yard.
Now is a good time to play hide and go frick yourself
Found the other “plumber”….
Why won’t you just buy my services? It’s only $100 a minute, and when it fails I’m nowhere to be found unless it’s a paid callback, then I’m all over it.
You are stupid
GO
TO
THE
FRICKING
STORE
>Water softener
>Scam
I once rented an apartment for a few months with softened water. My god it was amazing. Absolutely zero building on any fixtures or faucets, showers felt beautiful and slippery, never any water rings or film on anything. I guaranTEE the life of any appliance that touches water was at least doubled.
> water softener
Ok, I retract my statement about it being a scam, but I just can’t afford one (I guess the part about it costing so much is a scam) and I don’t want to drink the water. Plus you have to load bags of salt into it, I understand.
Do you have multiple water lines and faucets? Is it for the cold water, hot water, or both?
The softening happens in a big cylinder that almost looks like a nitrogen/ welding tank (its not really, its low pressure)
The bigger tank you pour salt into is the regnerator. It makes brine and swaps some valves around to run brine through the softening cylinder. This knocks all.the hard water ions off of resin beads in the tank and then it flushes down the drain. Some cities are making this illegal to do at home because the brine fricks with the water treatment plant and sewers.
You can get a water softener service and they come and replace your resin bead cylinder ever month or whatever amd recharge it at their factory and presumably they treat their waste water better. With the service you don't have a regenerator/salt tank.
Usually you want it plumbed in so your drinking water bypasses the softener, and that part of the initial install
>I guess the part about it costing so much is a scam
Yes, it costs a lot up front. Our softner and drinking water system was about 4000-4500 dollars several years ago after everything was said and done. It will last a long time, my mothers lasted about 25 years before it needed replacing because the old resin wasn’t softening the water anymore.
>Plus you have to load bags of salt into it, I understand.
Yes. I order a years worth of salt, about ten to twelve bags, every summer. I get it delivered. I add two bags about every three to four months, depending on usage.
>Is it for the cold water, hot water, or both?
When we moved in the old softner which was broken was only plumbed for the cold I think, and not even for the entire house, which is rather pointless. When they installed everything I asked them to plumb it on cold and hot water for everywhere in the house.
>Usually you want it plumbed in so your drinking water bypasses the softener, and that part of the initial install
The only thing the drinking water system bypasses in our house is the outdoor water, cause soft water is bad for the grass.
Regarding threads, yes. Threads specific to parts are generally not regarded as interchangeable. The siphon comes in two big pieces as you saw: one piece that's like an elbow, glued on one end and a coupling on the other, then the U-shaped piece that might have a cap. Typically one end is glued, and the other end has the coupling nut to attach to thr elbow. That nut is not standard. So is the slip nut on the tailpiece. The only threads that are standard are MPT and FPT threads for e.g. attaching to steel pipes.
>Now I ordered online the part
You're really making this more complicated than necessary. You just need to cut the pipe behind the siphon. Hacksaw it. Then once you glued your new siphon together, measure a stub and use a coupling to connect to the old ABS pipe. It's really a lot easier than you're making it. A whole siphon assembly is a few dollars at most.
There's about $10 in ABS there, I'd redo it from scratch. A union was added to your tailpiece pipe but really you only need the union after the trap as you can remove the whole thing by loosening the slip nut on the sink tailpiece. I don't know how much you value your time but getting all the parts separated and dealing with gunk, lime and other buildups isn't worth it to me. Replacing the whole thing is just faster for me. 30 mins max.
dude a bag trap costs like $6 just replace the frickin trap
Redo it all and take the time to replace that shitty dishwasher tee tailpiece with a solid glued style, pic rel. Avoid yourself problems in the future.
Here is a photo of the extension piece / adapter that is cracked where it was joined from manufacturing. Along with the slighty damaged threads where I took a wrench to it, to try and get it off, before knowing I can't take it off due to the glue used.
Here is the crack from the inside of the adapter.
If all else fails trying to find a NOS p trap, can this be sealed on this side with a type of water proof sealant? Recommend me some, if this is a viable solution.
Just give it a few coats of yellow ABS glue.
Also, before you do that, give it a few coats of purple primer. Open the crack a teeny bit and the primer will get in there and melt the plastic slightly. Then, quickly, add the yellow ABS glue, and let the pipe close.
Get a pipe clamp, and put it on and tighten to close the crack. See picrel.
After that is dry (an hour or two) slather more yellow glue over it and let it settle to the bottom (have the crack) positioned downward.
Millions of connections are watertight only because of this glue.
When you put it back on, keep the clamp on! It will prevent it from cracking again. Cracks there on sink tailpieces and surrounding fixtures is EXTREMELY common.
Primer is for PVC you fricking donkey. Leave this thread at once!
I meant oatey “clear cleaner”
It’s for ABS as well, although, code-wise it’s optional.
It’s probably the same or similar to the purple stuff, without the inspector’s purple dye.
You don't need to "prime" or "clean" ABS pipe unless it's fricking gross, but feel free to pay the Oatey tax for 0.50$ worth of acetone when you could use a swig of your wife's nail polish remover.
The clear stuff in like mostly acetone with cyclohexanone in it.
The purple stuff is mostly acetone as well, but with tetrahydrofuran, which is standard for PVC cements and primers. PVC doesn’t dissolve that well in acetone.
ABS dissolves very well in the clear cleaner, and yes, pipes dropped all over the clay basement are pretty dirty. My container and brush are totally black with ABS after a few pipes, it’s practically a solvent cement by itself so USE SPARINGLY.
OP here
>Just give it a few coats of yellow ABS glue.
I went out and bought the yellow Oatey ABS cement, after reading superglue and epoxies would not work well with ABS piping.
>Also, before you do that, give it a few coats of purple primer.
I read on the manufactures website I don’t need to do this, for ABS piping.
>When you put it back on, keep the clamp on!
If you paid attention, you’d see the crack is on the threads. I can’t leave the clamp on, because a slip nut goes into those threads when putting everything back together.
I’m going to put the Oatey stuff on the crack later and let it cure.
You’re wrong in all cases.
CONT...
> yellow ABS, purple primer
You’re right, you don’t need it. I mis-typed about purple, I meant clear cleaner. (I just did a bunch of PVC so I had it on the brain).
I forgot to mention, it’s always important to seal the crack on the inside of the pipe, not glob it on the the outside. Kind of like fixing a roof. It’s a basic principle.
>it’s always important to seal the crack on the inside of the pipe, not glob it on the the outside.
Yes, that is what I have done so far. I applied one coat of Oatey to the crack on the inside. Waited about 40 mins, and applied a second coat. I will also apply it on the outside where the threads are.
Previous owner did that.
…
Here is an example of a pool of yellow glue you want over the crack. This is actually from another thread.
This is where you use ptfe tape and blue (plastic safe) pipe dope. If you’re worried about cracks, use the hose clamp around the piece.
Absolutely terrible dogshit advice. Thread sealant has no business near drain parts. If it fixes your problem, it's going to leak again later, guaranteed.
Look at the threads on that pipe… they’re not in the best shape. Plastic-safe sealant and using it is common, and required to make gas-tight seals on threaded connections.
You have no clue what you’re talking about, stop using the I feel lucky google search button.
The guy doesn’t want to re-plumb everything into the fricking wall, nor should he have to.
I think half these posters get 50 cents a post paid by the plumber’s guild of America or something.
It's a fricking drain, not a gas line! Water is not supposed to reach that thread, and the nut is not designed to make a watertight seal. I'd give you a pass if you told him to use PTFE valve packing material to seal around the nut but I don't think you ever took a valve apart seeing how much of a hack you are from the stupid advice you're giving. I replace kitchen sink drains about every two weeks. It takes me 20 mins and it costs about $10 in parts. I chop halfway between the trap and the wall with a hacksaw (a very expensive model just for plumbers), I build the new trap in the same shape as the old one if I think it's good enough, then I connect to the stub with a $0.25 coupling. I charge $100 for that, pretty good profit margin there for the time it takes and the $8.25 in parts. I buy the parts at Home Depot, not even a plumbers supplies store. You don't need to open the wall unless the previous job was so shitty that it's actually leaking in the wall.
Slapping glue on top of broken parts is just ASKING for it to leak later on.
Am I being trolled? Cause I'm fricking taking that bait hard.
The blue stuff I use is megaloc, and has ptfe packing in it.
It does get wet and leak whenever the drain backs up. A lot of them crack due to hamfisted and ignorant attempts to unclog it with a plunger, which, judging by the grease coming out of it, happened more than once.
The wormgear clamp will prevent it from cracking again.
Gastight ABS sewage plumbing is standard, due to explosive methane gas. In this case it doesn’t have to be gas tight, but it’s cheap insurance.
The yellow PVC cement has ABS resin in it. In theory you could cast a pipe with it. It’s an easy way to fix a broken part as it’s not under pressure.
I have no idea why you americans have to do so much shit with your drains and abs screw fitting stuff. We use PVC and T-88. Just glue everything together up to the wall, never leaks even when an amateur does it. When you replace it you just cut the wall pipe with a pipe cutter. Literally everyone can do this and nobody ever calls a plumber to replace a p trap.
> americans
This is canada, jack.
California mandated PVC for political reasons, it’s more susceptible to cracks than ABS is.
> drains are not gas tight
If you ever read the NPC, you’d see the pressurized testing procedures for DWV. Now google those terms.
>hose clamp
It’s just part of the repair. The ABS resin, when hardened is still a bit softer than the injection molded part. Again, it’s insurance against cracking.
Fittings under compression nuts can also crack with thermal shock from expanding and contracting… especially in the kitchen. The clamp helps prevent this.
ABS is not gas-tight to begin with. IT IS PERMEABLE to gas. Pressure testing for leaks has nothing to do with it. Once you cut your caps off to add your fixtures, it's no longer gas tight.
>needing someone to inspect your work
I would have liked to put a greater distance between the parts but this is what I had to work with to keep the slope right. Pic is what is on the other side of that panel. Everything past the flexible is condominium property so I'm not touching it.
>piece of pipe in there
I know it's there and that's what matters.
The said included pic
> ABS is permeable
Yeah, to ionic/monoatomic hydrogen gas. So is everything else though. Not to larger molecular gasses.
> I know it’s in there
When I become the dictator of America, I will mandate clear drainage piping everywhere.
I hate being yelled at for skewering designer bikini bottoms that were clogging the drain with the snake. “Oh, that’s where those were”
>grease
OP said soap scum. Doesn't matter. When done properly, the drain will never leak in its lifetime, which for ABS is easily 30 years.
>cyclofluoro...
Nobody gives a shit, not that you would notice. This shit is not relevant to ABS and no code enforces priming ABS. If Oatey puts ABS on the label, and one gullible hack buys some for it, they win. At most it might mellow the buzz you get — or give you a nasty headache.
>gas-tight
Drains are never called gas-tight despite the "sewer gas" term. Gas-tight is tight under pressure.
>hose clamp
More unnecessary horse shit in lieu of a proper fix. No manufacturer says you need one. No plumbing handbook says you should do it this way. We're not arguing upgrading a complete system from poly-B to something modern, it's a couple dollars in parts and definitely less than an hour job even for someone with basic competency. ABS plumbing is like Lego for big boys. Can't use the wrong glue, can't put parts the wrong way. Never in the span of humanity have we had such easy access to a mountain of data for free. Almost ten years ago someone asked the same question on Stackexchange and was told to simply replace the whole thing. https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/57529/how-should-i-replace-this-abs-p-trap-and-drain/57531 yet here you are screwing the pooch, waiting on parts not even defined by spec, listening to some senile frick who puts hose clamps and ABS glue on fricking cracked $2 parts.
We don't, OP is just a special kind of moron.
Pic included is your standard ABS kitchen drain, minus the dishwasher tee (
). Cleanout is optional, I'd go with an union personally.
Here’s an example I just finished 20 min ago where I used ptfe and megaloc.
The problem here is that the glue is fresh, and when I screw in the endcap, it’s going to stick to the glue and when the guy who does the fancy shit, like installing the sink, comes in, he’s never gonna be able to remove that endcap unless I tape and lube it. It’s very very far from cracking, only hand-tight so there’s a bit of squeeze on the O-ring which does the actual seal.
I’ve only got 2 turns of tape on there, it’s just loose.
I guess the moral of the story is don’t just blindly follow random tidbits of information, find out why and then generalize it to solve other problems.
Who tapes plastic pipe? A moron thats who
> who tapes plastic joints?
Everyone, except you, troll. You don’t, because you don’t do anything useful at all. It’s even right in the product description.
It helps seal it, and helps you get threaded connections that are supposed to come apart, apart.
You mad bruh
a slip joint isn't a fricking threaded joint, they are two different things with two different sealing methods
The picrel in
is not a slip joint. Please try and keep up.
I didn’t know woke elementary school students got so much time off around valentines day.
Fixing a drain….an hour job.
Homeowner reality check…fix it yourself dumbass
just take the shit off from here to here, take it to the hardware store and match the pieces. this shit is not hard. the sinkdown and wall piece look fine. jesus christ this thread is full moron.
for the p trap get one of those plastic drain zips for 59¢ while you're picking up your new drain pipes.
You’re another one who didn’t bother to read the thread. Nothing you x’d in red needs replacement cept the p trap because I cant remove the cracked adapter from it.
> take it to the hardware store and match the pieces.
What the frick do you think I have been doing for three fricking days? The p traps all have different threading from my old part.
>the sinkdown and wall piece look fine.
Yes, it would be fine if I could find an older p trap that matched the threads that was on the wall pipe!
I have been to several stores IRL to look at p traps, its all newer shit that doesn’t work for me unless I backplumb. Read the fricking thread before you capslocks your bullshit here.
I also just got an email back with a picture of the part I needed, from a hardware store miles away from me that had the brand name and parts number match up to what I need, they even had a photo on the site of my old part, the one with the circle logo. They sent me a picture of the part on a desk, it’s the newer p trap with the wrong threads.
>Water is not supposed to reach that thread
Wrong, it’s very close to where the water would sit for the p trap, and even if its not, it leaked as soon as I turned the water on, so running down the pipe is enough.
>and the nut is not designed to make a watertight seal.
Wrong, from what I read/watched the slip nuts are supposed to make a seal, there is a whiteish plastic washer inside.
You’re not me.
>Nothing you x’d in red needs replacement
except that it DOESN'T FIT
god you're fricking thick as paint
Argh I never felt the need to berate anons on this board but this very thread flipped a switch in me. It's amazing how thick-headed someone can be, trying to fix something while not actually fixing anything.
Ok dickheads ive had enough im calling a plumber
You clowns caused me to mess up my easily fixed drain
Sorry anon we can't fix stupid.
What is so unbearable about calling a skilled tradesman, again? I get this is PrepHole, but usually the motto is "fix it yourself" not "break it yourself". I really don't understand why it would've been so hard for you to ask a plumber buddy of yours to come over and give you some suggestions, maybe even a reduced quote for a friend price. Don't tell me you're on PrepHole and don't know at least one. If it's about "I can do a better job than them" it's clearly not the case judging by your obvious lack of plumbing knowledge and ignoring the advice of replacing the trap outright. This reply is absolutely salt in the wound, but frankly I'm just fed up with the attitude homeowners have of "let me frick it up first then call". Just more money down the literal drain for you bud
You never shut up do you
My wife doesn’t ramble on as much as you.
Your so called help cost meca whole days wages.
Right now id slap the b***h out of you
Do you jave any problems finding electric cables in your bathroom walls?
Another 50¢ paid by the plumber’s guild of america.
Fricking triggered
Here's one I did last month. Find one thing wrong about it.
Ok I did.
The hose clamp is the wrong size.
Too large, thus all the excess clamp material.
The encircled joints are wrong.
Use the right parts next time. In addition, if you do have to join two F fittings with an ABS pipe stub, you want at least 1 cm of the pipe exposed so I can inspect the joint instead of that hamburger looking mess.
I’d have to go in with an inspection camera just to make sure you even have a piece of pipe in there.
> I’d have to go in with an inspection camera just to make sure you even have a piece of pipe in there.
So I can glue two fittings together without a stub?
Learn a new trick every day…tanks anon
Muratic acid
Curious as to why you didn’t just replace the old?
It's got something to do with his $4000 water softener or something.
God I love trolling tards…..Muratic acid b***hes
Jesus another one….clueless
That's easy. Just use a fernco.
It took so long for this to be mentioned lol
Also op can get fricked. I hope your plumber charged you out the ass and spend like five minutes with a used part he had in his truck from an old job. Ya mercurial bastard. I walk off jobs unpaid when I find out they're for people like you. My pleasant day is invaluable.
I bet you stood over his shoulder the whole fricking time too.
> . I walk off jobs unpaid when I find out they're for people like you. My pleasant day is invaluable
This only I get paid then I verbally rip their ass
Tapes plastic wonders why it cracks
OP here.
I applied the Oatey yellow ABS cement to both sides of the crack on the adapter and let it sit overnight. This morning I put everything back together. Ran hot water for a few mins, and also filled the sink and drained it. No leak at first, but about two hours later it started to leak again, but slower than it was before.
At this point Ive said frick it. I put a plastic container underneath the leak just as before and Im going to leave it alone. Its the slow type of drip where it will evaporate in the container before it ever has a chance to even pool up much.
If I ever come across that older p trap with the threads I need on the coupling for the wallpipe, Ill replace it along with a new adapter. But for now I am moving on.
>Oatey
>leak
were you surprised?
No, I read it was only a temporary solution. It slowed the leak down, at least.
Everything fits. It leaks because of a crack in the adapter that's glued to the p trap.
Welp, I thought it would be useless to try it because the crack was large enough, I thought the pipe dope on top of the Oatey was just gonna result in the same slow leak. Like I thought pipe dope was just for fussy connections that were not ootherwise damagd by a crack. But as I said, I'm tried and am done with it.
No I am not happy with the final results overall but I am too busy with other shit now to care.
Just let this thread sink..
If it’s leaking at that slip joint, apply some pipe dope or silicone grease.
My sink started leaking after it cracked in the same place as yours…. when the plumbers installed it, they must have known it was leaking a bit there, so they put this clear, thick goop on there to stop the leak on the tailpiece. I assume it was silicone grease, but maybe they make some special stuff just for this.
I assume you could also use plastic-safe pipe dope.
Op are you happy? Wasted all this time and it's still leaking. Nobody taught me how to assemble ABS drains and I figured it out the first time. Now I just do it faster than I used to. You can do it too.
Here's your shopping list:
1x 1.5" slip joint (kitchen sinks are 1.5", bathroom sinks 1.25")
1x dishwasher tee (the kind I posted a pic of, not yours
1x siphon, whatever type you want
1x 1.5" coupling
About 16" of 1.5" ABS pipe
ABS cement.
The most expensive part is the cement, which you already have. You could pick up a few more couplings:;if you ever attach a fitting to a length of ABS and realize it's too short or you did not get the angle right, you can cut the pipe and reattach with a coupling. It saves you the cost of the fittings. Once it's glued, it's not coming apart as it fuses the fittings together.
Do it right, do it once. It will last so long that you won't remember what to do when it happens again.
What part of frick off didnt you understand