Cordless tools cut those plastic breasts right off even faster than a panel popper flips (some of) them free. I harvest LS from salvage and muh Diablo Auto Dismantling recip saw blades thrusting manfully from muh Flexvolt recip saw slice through that shit laughing all the way, then my DCF 900 unscrews fricking everything in a savage electrical torque frenzy.
I can take the front end off a Suburban including severing both frame tubes using one blade and have battery to spare. The impact uses even less. Cordless tools are the Mjölnirs of mechanics. All who do not adore the mastery they confer are leper-felching poofters of the lowest order.
https://www.pullapart.com/inventory/ will get you the new additions at your location. Get on their email list for coupons when you get your customer card. It's quite handy and they keep track of cores on their computer so you don't have to save receipts.
For example my location normally hits Copart auctions etc early in the week to buy stock then processes new arrivals (drain liquids etc) before putting them out Wednesdays and entering them into their web page Wednesday evening. We often stop by during the day and sometimes nail vehicles as they pull them from incoming storage.
Shit's fun of course. They now use those rubber trans pan plugs after draining fluid and those are NOT repairs. I MIG weld a pipe thread bung into the hole after cleaning it up with a step bit to save the trans pans.
I've been a jet mech and more for many years, but I treat salvage as salvage should be treated. It's not a museum and the staff like self and bro because we're high speed and low hassle. Those vehicles are mostly going to the shredder with the majority of their parts not harvested except for desirable cores and most of that is by customers not staff.
We even showed staff tricks like placing tires in the back of Suburbans and Tahoes so the support rims they place up front can be far enough back (near the torsion bar pivots) for fastest frame tube severance. The frames are getting shredded so cutting them is harmless and speeds suspension/wheel/brake/front diff harvest for anyone desirous.
>No shit this is the dude that tears an entire cab offfa salvage truck before you get there for the dome light.
I don't get cabs from PAP because I require clear titles but I am that fast. (My first salvage job was in '78 in the cutting torch days before recip saws were common.) You're free to beat me to it like the (many) core pullers who send their guys to hunt based on their want list. When I want little shit like a dome light it's often more convenient to get it via Ebay from some guy parting out in his back yard because they often beat local salvage prices. The guys who specialize in interiors often get the whole interior or at least the door panels/switches/window guts/column switches/gauge cluster so unless I'm making a specific run for that I don't expect it to be there.
PAP publish the night after when they put out vehicles during the day, so get there or send a minion to see what's not on the yard yet.
I still keep air tools for when the electric ones inevitably break.
Cordless tools cut those plastic breasts right off even faster than a panel popper flips (some of) them free. I harvest LS from salvage and muh Diablo Auto Dismantling recip saw blades thrusting manfully from muh Flexvolt recip saw slice through that shit laughing all the way, then my DCF 900 unscrews fricking everything in a savage electrical torque frenzy.
I can take the front end off a Suburban including severing both frame tubes using one blade and have battery to spare. The impact uses even less. Cordless tools are the Mjölnirs of mechanics. All who do not adore the mastery they confer are leper-felching poofters of the lowest order.
I'm far too hungover to read this wtf. Speak English Black person
Not if you work in a building, every repair center garage I’ve ever worked in, or have seen, even on TV, has air hookups throughout. Same with factories.
Sounds eurogaygish. Really old people cling to air (senile people are enraged by change) but cordless tool use has skyrocketed because there are no downsides. (Factories where the workstation doesn't move are fine with pneumatic and corded but they do not dominate the mechanic industry.) Professional publications reflect this change.
While shops have compressors for airing tires and to run blowguns they're far from mandatory for tools and many cordless tools are more powerful than a pneumatic at the end of a long air hose (fitting ID constraints don't help).
Cordless impacts are now commonly available in the 1000ft.lb range and are far more handy on a service truck or other use away from the 10HP (industrial, not those stupid SPL marked motors) air compressor minimum not to suck.
Even Class 8 truck mechanics are going cordless and they don't spend money unless it makes money. Class 8 truck lug nuts are a common use because frick dragging air hoses.
I haven’t seen a mechanic in our fleet shop use a pneumatic 1/2” gun in a fricking decade. They have air lines, but they’re only going to drag the air lines around when they need the big 1” extended anvil IR gun.
> drag air lines
Our lines come down from the ceiling, we’ve got 2 per bay, so we don’t drag anything… sheesh
Just as fast, if not faster than your “fleet” guy looking for his ryobi buzz drill he left on the crash cart.
Gotta go, my ryobi ratchet is almost charged, i plugged it in a few hours ago. I maybe get to do, like, 2 solid hours of work in between charges but whatever. I was thinking about bringing back the batteries I stole so we’d have more in the rotation but my wife needs them for her gardening tools, and 2 for the ryobi lawn mower. The ratchets i stole are broken because i tried to remove a lug nut but the battery was dead and the plastic handle broke in two when i reefed on it manually.
I was going to quit and work at another shop, but a lit of them are crazy zoomers and they expect you to bring your own tools like a contractor. Frick that. I guess thats why we see people using home depot shit in some shops because they never knew any better.
10 months ago
Kevin Van Dam
Yup, I can tell you haven’t used any of the stuff.
Those 1/2” air lines are heavy as frick, even if they come from the cieling. And god forbid you have a truck taken apart on your lift and you need to pull another truck up to the bay door for a quick fix. Have fun being all tangled and stretching that line as far as you can.
>I plugged it in a few hours ago
Why are you charging your tools with a 5W charger that runs off USB-A? Doesn’t sound like you’re prepared. Most brands will sell you a charger that will get you to 75% on your lunch break and that will be enough to get a ratchet or impact through the rest of the day.
10 months ago
Anonymous
> “heavy as hell”
I circled the air drops in green for you, since you’ve never been in a shop before and wouldn’t recognize it. Does it look as heavy as, say, a tire?
Since you can’t handle an air hose, how the hell are you going to do something like remove a tire?
You wouldn’t even be able to handle a cordless tool with a 4Ah battery because it’s “heavy as frick” for you.
Note lack of home depot battery operated toys lying around.
Larper troll.
10 months ago
Kevin Van Dam
You don’t get to leave your permitted square I see. A cubicle with invisible walls.
10 months ago
Kevin Van Dam
You don’t get to leave your permitted square I see. A cubicle with invisible walls.
Kek nvm that’s not your pic. Doesn’t sound like you have dragged around a 1/2” rubber air hose very far or carried a 4Ah battery either.
10 months ago
Anonymous
His point is that in a real shop, you don't have to drag a hose since they are in reels in your work area.
I work in a machine shop. The air itself is the main "tool" when it comes to the compressed air system. Your machines will often need air anyway for tool changes and such.
10 months ago
Kevin Van Dam
>in a real shop
There are a lot of “real shops” where you’re not confined to a single bay the entire shift like jiffy bois. And even if you are in one box all day, tons of dudes are still using cordless stuff because dragging a hose behind the tool in tight spots sucks.
10 months ago
Anonymous
You don't use 1/2 air lines, you use 1/4 or at most 3/8
10 months ago
Anonymous
LINES are the hard piping on the wall, ceiling etc. HOSE is the flexible stuff on hose reels or hanging as drops.
It's typical for lines to be much larger ID than the hoses they feed to reduce pressure drop. 1/4" air hoses are for low power small die grinders and blow guns. 3/8" is most common for small shops and light work. 1/2" or larger is commercial-industrial for power tools. Inch and larger is for fun stuff like blasters. Larger air hose for blasting, connecting mobile industrial compressors, sand blasting etc typically uses Chicago couplings for full flow rather than chuck/nipple systems.
1/2" ID pneumatic tool hose is common in industry. Here's a performance comparison to see why: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PZxeDxpPY2U
Stepping down to a lighter length of smaller hose gets you reduced pressure drop at distance with more flex at point of use.
When someone asserts cordless tools are not used in industry or heavy mechanics or serious construction they're shitposting or extremely ignorant and cherrypicking their examples. People with money to make are using what works.
Hilti for example is not home gamer tier nor is this cutie:
> asserts cordless tools are not used
It takes about 10 minutes for the meth heads at work to figure out that the new $200 shop batteries will work on their $150 cordless at home. That’s why not.
Back in the ‘90’s we had these incidents at the sales offices where they figured out the ddr ram in their office computer would work in their home pee cees. Guess what happened? That’s why not.
Stealing air 20 year old air tools with calibrated torques and have had the vanes replaced dozens of times is rare,
> hilti
Okay
10 months ago
Anonymous
I use 3/4" air hose at work to run 100+CFM tools.
10 months ago
Loki
1/2 inch requires superhuman strength, so 3/4 must be illegal unless you are Thor.
10 months ago
Kevin Van Dam
>1/4”
Yeah dude this discussion isn’t about your buddy’s 3gal hotdog compressor buddy, everybody is talking about real shops
That being said, I wonder if you had some badass exotic shop or the Lambo factory and ran liquid nitrogen tanks with like 800psi lines, how small of a line could you go to run on center nuts for those performance wheels.
10 months ago
Anonymous
>His point is that in a real shop, you don't have to drag a hose since they are in reels in your work area.
That very much depends on the shop. Factory and tidy machine shop peeps sometimes cannot relate to anything else. OTOH vehicle fleet maintenance may span many parking spots with bays dedicated to what needs a lift.
>in a real shop
There are a lot of “real shops” where you’re not confined to a single bay the entire shift like jiffy bois. And even if you are in one box all day, tons of dudes are still using cordless stuff because dragging a hose behind the tool in tight spots sucks.
^This. a vertical air drop to a mill or lathe is definitely not the same thing. For example in factory maintenance the air to a given section may be shut off or that section not be plumbed for air or the work are so buried no hose is not a burden.
Air is not more powerful either except at high psi and flow rates. Many car shops only have a 10 HP compressor and the guy at the end of the line may not have a receiver tank on his end.
Electric tools offer full torque at zero RPM hence their use in structural and pipe welding where most grinders by far are corded and pneumatic angle grinders mainly used for production not construction and repair. A thick enough air hose for serious work is annoying to use even off a vertical drop and the small ID hose don't flow much air. I'm setting up two 5HP industrial compressors (the consumer shit is vastly inferior and over-rated to sell to noobs) for simultaneous or separate use at my home shop. They and their large receiver tank are being connected using 3/4" ID hose with Chicago couplings. I'll have multiple outputs but one will be 50ft of 3/4" hose to an air pig with a variety of chucks so my main line pressure won't drop. I want the air for blasting and running large needle scalers otherwise a cordless fleet would be more versatile.
I have industrial pneumatic tools too. Cordless still beat them for the vast majority of use. I don't have to choose one or the other.
10 months ago
Anonymous
Come on Michael, we know you havent either!
10 months ago
Kevin Van Dam
>thinks shops run 1/4” hoses
> asserts cordless tools are not used
It takes about 10 minutes for the meth heads at work to figure out that the new $200 shop batteries will work on their $150 cordless at home. That’s why not.
Back in the ‘90’s we had these incidents at the sales offices where they figured out the ddr ram in their office computer would work in their home pee cees. Guess what happened? That’s why not.
Stealing air 20 year old air tools with calibrated torques and have had the vanes replaced dozens of times is rare,
> hilti
Okay
This is a moronic argument because the meth head is going to run off with a pneumatic gun just as fast as a power tool battery. Thieves are going to thief, so you fire them before you lose out on too much
10 months ago
Kevin Van Dam
His point is that in a real shop, you don't have to drag a hose since they are in reels in your work area.
I work in a machine shop. The air itself is the main "tool" when it comes to the compressed air system. Your machines will often need air anyway for tool changes and such.
What if there’s a trailer outside that needs a new mudflap? 2min job with a cordless gun, or you can grab a ratchet plus a second ratchet or wrench for the back side and fight with the rust, or drag fricking 100ft of 1/2” heavy rubber hose.
10 months ago
Anonymous
> “guys, everyone stop what you’re doing… we got a guy out here who needs a new mudflap and a blowjob” > send kevin, he brought his ryobis from home and he’s been in the bathroom with them for 2 hours
10 months ago
Kevin Van Dam
Yeah that’s pretty much how it goes at the fleet shop. Driver comes up because he found a missing mud flap on his trailer, you have a tractor in the bay with no water pump on it, so you run out there and throw a new mud flap on with your cordless impact and let the driver get on his way instead of burning up hours of service.
I use either for both, the swappable anvils of various lengths for impact drivers being quite handy. I've plenty of bits and adapters anyway so convenience is convenient.
Not really. Dewalt DCF921 impact wrench puts out about double the torque of the DCF850 impact driver. You can still use the driver to remove the lugs of your car though with the right adapter. I've snapped bits with both.
>DCF850 1/4" Driver, under 4" head length and ~2lbs >DCF900 1/2" Wrench, 9" head and 6.5 lbs >same body and anvil, just a different head on the end.
Full moron.
There’s a couple models like that, but the impact wrench version is always a lower power like 3/8” or 1/4”. Which is also why I tell people starting out that it’s dumb to waste money on a 3/8” compact impact wrench. Get a larger 1/2” for big nuts and bolts that the impact driver would struggle with, and then get an impact driver with some adapters for smaller nuts and bolts.
no
you use driver for screws and nuts first and if its not enough you grab the 3/4 xgt makita >inb4 hurr what if im taking semi tires off
use youre brain then moron
Anything small enough for the driver to do can be done by hand >inb4 hurr what if im taking semi tires off
Not semi tires, but that's literally what I use my impact wrench for, for wrenching on my truck. Planned to use it for ironworking too, but I haven't had that kind of work for a while
That's a 1/2 drive impact wrench, yet you mention screws in your OP. I think you meant to post a picture of an impact driver, but oh well, we get the point.
>the only reason are popular is because of shitty screws and materials
They're popular because it's better to take 2 seconds to run in a screw then 10, and it's easier on your body. Nice bait though.
inb4 esl
moron detected. Cordless impacts now dominate the vehicle mechanic industry. They're powerful, fast, mobile and avoid RSI.
>Cordless impacts now dominate the vehicle mechanic industry
for what? modern cars are held together with plastic clips LOL
Cordless tools cut those plastic breasts right off even faster than a panel popper flips (some of) them free. I harvest LS from salvage and muh Diablo Auto Dismantling recip saw blades thrusting manfully from muh Flexvolt recip saw slice through that shit laughing all the way, then my DCF 900 unscrews fricking everything in a savage electrical torque frenzy.
I can take the front end off a Suburban including severing both frame tubes using one blade and have battery to spare. The impact uses even less. Cordless tools are the Mjölnirs of mechanics. All who do not adore the mastery they confer are leper-felching poofters of the lowest order.
>pull-a-part vulture thinks he's a mechanic
No shit this is the dude that tears an entire cab offfa salvage truck before you get there for the dome light.
https://www.pullapart.com/inventory/ will get you the new additions at your location. Get on their email list for coupons when you get your customer card. It's quite handy and they keep track of cores on their computer so you don't have to save receipts.
For example my location normally hits Copart auctions etc early in the week to buy stock then processes new arrivals (drain liquids etc) before putting them out Wednesdays and entering them into their web page Wednesday evening. We often stop by during the day and sometimes nail vehicles as they pull them from incoming storage.
Shit's fun of course. They now use those rubber trans pan plugs after draining fluid and those are NOT repairs. I MIG weld a pipe thread bung into the hole after cleaning it up with a step bit to save the trans pans.
Now go rape something.
I've been a jet mech and more for many years, but I treat salvage as salvage should be treated. It's not a museum and the staff like self and bro because we're high speed and low hassle. Those vehicles are mostly going to the shredder with the majority of their parts not harvested except for desirable cores and most of that is by customers not staff.
We even showed staff tricks like placing tires in the back of Suburbans and Tahoes so the support rims they place up front can be far enough back (near the torsion bar pivots) for fastest frame tube severance. The frames are getting shredded so cutting them is harmless and speeds suspension/wheel/brake/front diff harvest for anyone desirous.
>No shit this is the dude that tears an entire cab offfa salvage truck before you get there for the dome light.
I don't get cabs from PAP because I require clear titles but I am that fast. (My first salvage job was in '78 in the cutting torch days before recip saws were common.) You're free to beat me to it like the (many) core pullers who send their guys to hunt based on their want list. When I want little shit like a dome light it's often more convenient to get it via Ebay from some guy parting out in his back yard because they often beat local salvage prices. The guys who specialize in interiors often get the whole interior or at least the door panels/switches/window guts/column switches/gauge cluster so unless I'm making a specific run for that I don't expect it to be there.
PAP publish the night after when they put out vehicles during the day, so get there or send a minion to see what's not on the yard yet.
Construction industry as well. Not being tied to an air compressor is a godsend and most contractors swear by either Dewalt or Makita.
I still keep air tools for when the electric ones inevitably break.
I'm far too hungover to read this wtf. Speak English Black person
Corded tti shill detected.
Not if you work in a building, every repair center garage I’ve ever worked in, or have seen, even on TV, has air hookups throughout. Same with factories.
Say home, home gamer.
>repair center garage
Sounds eurogaygish. Really old people cling to air (senile people are enraged by change) but cordless tool use has skyrocketed because there are no downsides. (Factories where the workstation doesn't move are fine with pneumatic and corded but they do not dominate the mechanic industry.) Professional publications reflect this change.
While shops have compressors for airing tires and to run blowguns they're far from mandatory for tools and many cordless tools are more powerful than a pneumatic at the end of a long air hose (fitting ID constraints don't help).
Cordless impacts are now commonly available in the 1000ft.lb range and are far more handy on a service truck or other use away from the 10HP (industrial, not those stupid SPL marked motors) air compressor minimum not to suck.
Even Class 8 truck mechanics are going cordless and they don't spend money unless it makes money. Class 8 truck lug nuts are a common use because frick dragging air hoses.
> euro
No, usa
> “going cordless”
Sure, too bad you can’t even use them in the pit, as gas fumes are heavier than air.
Nice try, or maybe you’re thinking of RC cars and trucks. But that’s just a hobby.
> inb4 “yeahbut buy all new again this year because brushless”
Next year maybe they’ll even have sealed trigger switches, year after that, maybe certified for flammable gas use.
Keep trying shill.
I haven’t seen a mechanic in our fleet shop use a pneumatic 1/2” gun in a fricking decade. They have air lines, but they’re only going to drag the air lines around when they need the big 1” extended anvil IR gun.
> drag air lines
Our lines come down from the ceiling, we’ve got 2 per bay, so we don’t drag anything… sheesh
Just as fast, if not faster than your “fleet” guy looking for his ryobi buzz drill he left on the crash cart.
Gotta go, my ryobi ratchet is almost charged, i plugged it in a few hours ago. I maybe get to do, like, 2 solid hours of work in between charges but whatever. I was thinking about bringing back the batteries I stole so we’d have more in the rotation but my wife needs them for her gardening tools, and 2 for the ryobi lawn mower. The ratchets i stole are broken because i tried to remove a lug nut but the battery was dead and the plastic handle broke in two when i reefed on it manually.
I was going to quit and work at another shop, but a lit of them are crazy zoomers and they expect you to bring your own tools like a contractor. Frick that. I guess thats why we see people using home depot shit in some shops because they never knew any better.
Yup, I can tell you haven’t used any of the stuff.
Those 1/2” air lines are heavy as frick, even if they come from the cieling. And god forbid you have a truck taken apart on your lift and you need to pull another truck up to the bay door for a quick fix. Have fun being all tangled and stretching that line as far as you can.
>I plugged it in a few hours ago
Why are you charging your tools with a 5W charger that runs off USB-A? Doesn’t sound like you’re prepared. Most brands will sell you a charger that will get you to 75% on your lunch break and that will be enough to get a ratchet or impact through the rest of the day.
> “heavy as hell”
I circled the air drops in green for you, since you’ve never been in a shop before and wouldn’t recognize it. Does it look as heavy as, say, a tire?
Since you can’t handle an air hose, how the hell are you going to do something like remove a tire?
You wouldn’t even be able to handle a cordless tool with a 4Ah battery because it’s “heavy as frick” for you.
Note lack of home depot battery operated toys lying around.
Larper troll.
You don’t get to leave your permitted square I see. A cubicle with invisible walls.
Kek nvm that’s not your pic. Doesn’t sound like you have dragged around a 1/2” rubber air hose very far or carried a 4Ah battery either.
His point is that in a real shop, you don't have to drag a hose since they are in reels in your work area.
I work in a machine shop. The air itself is the main "tool" when it comes to the compressed air system. Your machines will often need air anyway for tool changes and such.
>in a real shop
There are a lot of “real shops” where you’re not confined to a single bay the entire shift like jiffy bois. And even if you are in one box all day, tons of dudes are still using cordless stuff because dragging a hose behind the tool in tight spots sucks.
You don't use 1/2 air lines, you use 1/4 or at most 3/8
LINES are the hard piping on the wall, ceiling etc. HOSE is the flexible stuff on hose reels or hanging as drops.
It's typical for lines to be much larger ID than the hoses they feed to reduce pressure drop. 1/4" air hoses are for low power small die grinders and blow guns. 3/8" is most common for small shops and light work. 1/2" or larger is commercial-industrial for power tools. Inch and larger is for fun stuff like blasters. Larger air hose for blasting, connecting mobile industrial compressors, sand blasting etc typically uses Chicago couplings for full flow rather than chuck/nipple systems.
1/2" ID pneumatic tool hose is common in industry. Here's a performance comparison to see why: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PZxeDxpPY2U
Stepping down to a lighter length of smaller hose gets you reduced pressure drop at distance with more flex at point of use.
When someone asserts cordless tools are not used in industry or heavy mechanics or serious construction they're shitposting or extremely ignorant and cherrypicking their examples. People with money to make are using what works.
Hilti for example is not home gamer tier nor is this cutie:
https://powertools.ingersollrand.com/en-us/impact-wrenches/w9000
> asserts cordless tools are not used
It takes about 10 minutes for the meth heads at work to figure out that the new $200 shop batteries will work on their $150 cordless at home. That’s why not.
Back in the ‘90’s we had these incidents at the sales offices where they figured out the ddr ram in their office computer would work in their home pee cees. Guess what happened? That’s why not.
Stealing air 20 year old air tools with calibrated torques and have had the vanes replaced dozens of times is rare,
> hilti
Okay
I use 3/4" air hose at work to run 100+CFM tools.
1/2 inch requires superhuman strength, so 3/4 must be illegal unless you are Thor.
>1/4”
Yeah dude this discussion isn’t about your buddy’s 3gal hotdog compressor buddy, everybody is talking about real shops
That being said, I wonder if you had some badass exotic shop or the Lambo factory and ran liquid nitrogen tanks with like 800psi lines, how small of a line could you go to run on center nuts for those performance wheels.
>His point is that in a real shop, you don't have to drag a hose since they are in reels in your work area.
That very much depends on the shop. Factory and tidy machine shop peeps sometimes cannot relate to anything else. OTOH vehicle fleet maintenance may span many parking spots with bays dedicated to what needs a lift.
^This. a vertical air drop to a mill or lathe is definitely not the same thing. For example in factory maintenance the air to a given section may be shut off or that section not be plumbed for air or the work are so buried no hose is not a burden.
Air is not more powerful either except at high psi and flow rates. Many car shops only have a 10 HP compressor and the guy at the end of the line may not have a receiver tank on his end.
Electric tools offer full torque at zero RPM hence their use in structural and pipe welding where most grinders by far are corded and pneumatic angle grinders mainly used for production not construction and repair. A thick enough air hose for serious work is annoying to use even off a vertical drop and the small ID hose don't flow much air. I'm setting up two 5HP industrial compressors (the consumer shit is vastly inferior and over-rated to sell to noobs) for simultaneous or separate use at my home shop. They and their large receiver tank are being connected using 3/4" ID hose with Chicago couplings. I'll have multiple outputs but one will be 50ft of 3/4" hose to an air pig with a variety of chucks so my main line pressure won't drop. I want the air for blasting and running large needle scalers otherwise a cordless fleet would be more versatile.
I have industrial pneumatic tools too. Cordless still beat them for the vast majority of use. I don't have to choose one or the other.
Come on Michael, we know you havent either!
>thinks shops run 1/4” hoses
This is a moronic argument because the meth head is going to run off with a pneumatic gun just as fast as a power tool battery. Thieves are going to thief, so you fire them before you lose out on too much
What if there’s a trailer outside that needs a new mudflap? 2min job with a cordless gun, or you can grab a ratchet plus a second ratchet or wrench for the back side and fight with the rust, or drag fricking 100ft of 1/2” heavy rubber hose.
> “guys, everyone stop what you’re doing… we got a guy out here who needs a new mudflap and a blowjob”
> send kevin, he brought his ryobis from home and he’s been in the bathroom with them for 2 hours
Yeah that’s pretty much how it goes at the fleet shop. Driver comes up because he found a missing mud flap on his trailer, you have a tractor in the bay with no water pump on it, so you run out there and throw a new mud flap on with your cordless impact and let the driver get on his way instead of burning up hours of service.
It’s almost like some of us aren’t NEETs.
Nice bait thread
ty
Weird my bosses son just got one for Father's day. Shit is well balanced
>moron uses an impact wrench for screws
>moron uses an impact wrench for screws
first day trolling, or just a desk jockey?
That's some projection right there.
>the only reason are popular is because of shitty screws
more like an experienced troll, since it baited more posts
You use an impact driver for screws
You use an impact wrench for nuts
I use either for both, the swappable anvils of various lengths for impact drivers being quite handy. I've plenty of bits and adapters anyway so convenience is convenient.
By this generation of brushless tools, they're the same body and anvil, just a different head on the end.
Not really. Dewalt DCF921 impact wrench puts out about double the torque of the DCF850 impact driver. You can still use the driver to remove the lugs of your car though with the right adapter. I've snapped bits with both.
>DCF850 1/4" Driver, under 4" head length and ~2lbs
>DCF900 1/2" Wrench, 9" head and 6.5 lbs
>same body and anvil, just a different head on the end.
Full moron.
There’s a couple models like that, but the impact wrench version is always a lower power like 3/8” or 1/4”. Which is also why I tell people starting out that it’s dumb to waste money on a 3/8” compact impact wrench. Get a larger 1/2” for big nuts and bolts that the impact driver would struggle with, and then get an impact driver with some adapters for smaller nuts and bolts.
no
you use driver for screws and nuts first and if its not enough you grab the 3/4 xgt makita
>inb4 hurr what if im taking semi tires off
use youre brain then moron
Anything small enough for the driver to do can be done by hand
>inb4 hurr what if im taking semi tires off
Not semi tires, but that's literally what I use my impact wrench for, for wrenching on my truck. Planned to use it for ironworking too, but I haven't had that kind of work for a while
That's a 1/2 drive impact wrench, yet you mention screws in your OP. I think you meant to post a picture of an impact driver, but oh well, we get the point.
>the only reason are popular is because of shitty screws and materials
They're popular because it's better to take 2 seconds to run in a screw then 10, and it's easier on your body. Nice bait though.
>Nice bait though.
thanks I think it's doing pretty decent for being on a slow board
They were on sale at Lowes about 4 months ago--$79.00 and came with a charging station and a spare battery--that's why I have one.