stupid question, but I am repeating water damage on the bottom/side of my house and im going to be putting waterproofing membrane on it and then putting new siding on it
When I drive new siding nails into the area where I put the membrane/housewrap etc, wouldn't water seep in through the nailholes negating any waterproofing I am doing?
Do nails create a watertight seal?
Unless you’re siding a boat you’ll be okay.
The nailing strips are slotted for expansion btw, don’t nail tight or your boat will get wavy
im gonna need a better explanation than that
do the nails create a watertight seal at normal air pressure?
Also another random question, when I do the siding can I overlap the pieces either way?
Like can I always make the factory edge the one on top? Or would it look stupid with overlaps going from left to right and vice versa?
How do you do siding so as to not waste the factory edges?
Some things I learned from siding a few houses 20 years ago:
Have the edges overlap away from the prominent viewing angle of the house, ie: if you would look at the house from the street, the overlaps are not as noticeable as from the back yard. Have all the overlaps uniform going in one direction. You shouldn’t have to worry about factory/not factory edges. Done right, edges are all hidden and the visible overlapping edges can and should all be factory anyway.
What the other guy said, you don’t nail siding nails right to the wall, you want a little bit of room, all the siding pieces should be able to wiggle and float, just slightly. All these things are probably covered in some 5 minute YouTube video.
No
Yes
Yes
Overlap away from main light of sight
start each row with offcut from previous row
cut edge behind j.
are you putting water proof membrane on the outside of a wall?
what climate do you live in because anywhere it gets cold outside thats a recipe for even more water damage and rotten walls.
Seconding this
explain!
I was going to use blueskin membrane.
>Done right, edges are all hidden and the visible overlapping edges can and should all be factory anyway.
How do I make this happen without wasting siding pieces?
Like if I cut off one end of a piece and I want all of the overlaps to go to the right, I can't use the other part of that piece.
>No
What's the point of a waterproof membrane if siding nails can compromise it?
End piece cut on one layer is the starting piece cut in the next, just go look, really look, at some vinyl siding of a bunch of houses
Membranes are a scam. Stop being so indecisive like a woman and just install it.
Upload pics when ur done 🙂
>Membranes are a scam.
lmao you literally give the worst advice
yeah bro, don't put housewrap on your house and any waterproofing membrane around your windows
>redd*tor is too stupid to understand sarcasm without an /s
Go back
>I was just pretending to be moronic
Drop the keyboard and go touch grass, doctor's order.
>oh noes I got baited on the chans :/
Go to bed dad
Wood shouldn’t come in contact with the ground at all.
Concrete>sill gasket>pressure treated bottom plate
>How do I minimize waste
You can't. It's literally a hard mathematical problem. Cut list optimization.
Here is a tip though: measure the wall, and draw on a sheet of paper different layouts for the seams. Discard the ones that result in tiny pieces on either end, then play around to see if one layout could give you offcuts large enough for another layout's end pieces. Find as many pairings as possible, then once you're set, you can do all your cuts on the ground and just follow the layout. Compare that to shingles and how you might want to break the normal layout pattern to avoid having to put a 1/6 length piece on the edge of the roof.
>waterproof
Are you sure? Tyvek Home wrap is an air barrier, sometimes called a weather barrior. Not water proof. It will repel some water like morning dew just fine, but if actual streams of water reach your house wrap, your sheathing getting wet is just a symptom of a much bigger problem. Your vinyl cladding is what is stopping the sheathing from getting wet in rainstorms. Water is not supposed to get to the nails.
>Are you sure? Tyvek Home wrap is an air barrier, sometimes called a weather barrior. Not water proof. It will repel some water like morning dew just fine, but if actual streams of water reach your house wrap, your sheathing getting wet is just a symptom of a much bigger problem. Your vinyl cladding is what is stopping the sheathing from getting wet in rainstorms. Water is not supposed to get to the nails.
okay
I did some rework on the exterior walls and took out some nails which left random holes going through the sheathing. I plan on covering this with house wrap and then vinyl siding but should I put caulking or something in these holes?
also Im planning on doing spray foam insulation in these walls.
Doesn't the spray foam solve this problem anyway?
What if I didn't spray foam and just used fiberglass batts?
what if I took old nails out leaving holes in the sheathing?
>fill holes
No. Water is not supposed to get there, and the homewrap is doing the heavy lifting. Nail holes are a drop in the ocean. Worry more about proper flashing around your openings.
ok thanks, I am also using that blueskin membrane stuff where the wall meets the ground outside
This one section of my detached garage had lots of water damage in that area and I want to make sure it doesn't happen again.
I already replaced the bottom plates and put new OSB sheathing on
>what if I took old nails out leaving holes in the sheathing?
Sheathing tape (eg. Tuck tape) is the way to seal small holes like that
>membrane
Like I said, a properly clad wall is not getting any water. Openings like doors and windows however must be done properly. A correctly installed window is not supposed to cause water infiltration, but to be sure, framers will usually prepare the opening in a way that if the window installation is thoroughly botched, water should still end up outside of the weather barrier. This is where membrane comes in. You use it to flash openings.
two reasons not to put barrier on the outside, this is for climates that get actual winters if you live in hot af swampland it might be different.
getting water, rain or whatever on your wall or even inside it isnt a big issue, as long as it has somewhere to escape out again. an outside barrier might prevent 99% of water to get in but what gets in are then trapped there and that cause problems.
during winter when its cold and dry outside and you keep it comfy hot and humid inside, that humidity will creep into your wall, condensate into water drops, maybe even freeze. barrier on the inside prevents this and lack off or breathable barrier on the outside gives whatever gets through anyway a way to escape. outside water barrier will trap that humidity and accelerate problems drasticly.
your problem isnt humidity in your walls but that it doesnt escape.
I was only going to use that waterproof membrane on the bottom where the wall meets the foundation
i have not yet found a native English site but use this German U (R)- value calculator, translation of the materials can be a bit wonky.
basically input your wall layers and thickness, and inside and outside temperature and moisture.
this calculator is made for German climate where you get condensation in the winter heating period and it dries in the summer, not sure if you can make it work for Florida climate where ac keeps the inside cooler than outside.
https://www.ubakus.de/en/r-value-calculator/?
Have you tried turning it off and back on again?
I know you’re not asking this but in my experience many people don’t do this-have you taken the steps you are able to get the water away from your house?
90% of water issues are found by going outside and looking how water flows when it rains then fixing the grade around your house, fixing obvious above ground cracks, fixing the downspouts to send water away from the house or where the eavestroughs leak, etc
The only way wood on your house is rotting is if you buried it in soil or its constantly getting water sprayed on it
That’s one way to do it
>I am repeating water damage
But why would you do that?
IIRC siding nails have a tip design that minimizes damage to membranes, so the seal should be decent against rain etc. However it will not be truly 100% waterproof like a submarine. So just use the right nails and don't worry about it
Hello, im looking for suggestions on how to better light my curio cabinet to make my crystal frickin sparkle. I basically want to turn it into the israeliteelry store displays. I would prefer to not have the light sources visible at all thought because i just don't think it looks as good, any suggestions?
Will post open cabinet next to show what im working with. the cabinet came with 2 shitty ass tube bulbs originally i replaced with some fairly bright LEDs but they simply don't get the light down to the bottom well enough and those pieces appear quite dull
There's a reasonable amount of space to hide the main lighting (whatever i replace the bulbs with if I do) as well as a void above the cabinet for hiding hardware and shit
why dont you start a new thread instead of posting this in a completely unrelated thread?
because im moronic and ctrl+f "stupid" and thought this was the stupid questions thread
my bad
just nail that shit up they said it will be fine
can someone tell me why exactly this happened
wrong construction
pic is what i could imagine this house with https://www.ubakus.de/en/r-value-calculator/?
2x6 framing rockwool, drywall inside osb and tyvec outside. if seated in German (code standard )climate it would get wrecked.
during the heating period almost 1 gallon per m2 water from breathing and cooking bathing will condensate on the inside of the OSB.
the rock wool and drywall let the moisture pass easily the osb. being a good vapor barrier will stop the moisture and since the osb is cold it will condensate here, the tyvec will only make it worse.
this is what essential craftsman build from my understanding it could work since roseburg is pretty dry.
now i moved the membrane inside and used a much tighter one looks much better now.
still problematic because you need to seal every outlet and hole very well end hope the tape lasts 30 years.
or put the osb sheathing inside.
thin membrane to stop cold air leaking and to stop water if the ventilated siding fails.
gets you zero condensation.
now you cant punch holes in the drywall anymore and you can hang shelves to it.
keep in mid if you live in a moist warm jungle and have the ac cooling the inside down things would reverse.
Is the tldr, that the membrane has to be on the side with higher humidity, so that the lower-humidity side can 'breathe'?
Plastic wrap instead of tyvek. Plastic will tear, leak, is easily damaged. Looks like it was rolled-up, then a few rainstorms hit while the ladder was up, and the water pooled in the rolled-up area, and leaked against the wall. That kind of chip board readily absorbs water, and the ladder sank into it. Someone probably tried to climb the ladder and made it sink worse, because a ladder by itself, at that angle, is light.
Fluoridated americans over the generations have gotten stupider. Homeowners and handymen alike. Add in Black folk and unscrupulous practices.
yes and no, we just say it should be on the hot side while it really means the same.
>Plastic wrap instead of tyvek. Plastic will tear, leak, is easily damaged.
Isnt the main problem with plastic wrap that it traps the moisture?
isnt tyvek supposed to allow it to "breathe" or whatever?
>Is the tldr, that the membrane has to be on the side with higher humidity
Yeah. Vapor barrier prevents condensation inside walls etc.
this link explains it much better than i can in english so i wont even try:
https://buildingscience.com/documents/digests/bsd-106-understanding-vapor-barriers
this is why container homes suck, unless you are fine with having the steel walls on the inside and insulate the outside, pretty much the oposite of what these people do.
i have a old job site trailer from corrugated steel insulated inside.
the boomers made the gutters oversized and then riveted the roof inside of the gutter, if it condensates inside the water runs down the roof and in the gutters.
the real challenge arises when you have climates where the summer is hot and humid and the winters are cold and dry. Then you have vapor drive inwards in the summer and vapor drive outwards in the winter. I think that vapor drive is really only an issue when you have super impermeable stuff like those plastic membranes.. I think i read that most of the damage caused by water vapor in a wall is caused by the movement of bulk air through the wall, depositing the vapor, rather than the moisture simply driving by gradient into the wall. So keeping the house air tight and keeping the pressure balanced in the home to prevent air intrusion through cracks would be perhaps more important.. I think perhaps the wall, if it's made of moisture sensitive materials, should either have vapor barriers on both sides and adequately dehumidify and ventilate inside, or should be vapor open and allowed to dry, which i think is more or less the modern approach with high perm drywall, insulation, osb, tyvek(or zip), vinyl siding, etc.
do euros really use metric for house construction wtf?
so no 2by4s?
we use metric for everything.
2x4 or 2x6 are not common wood sizes here you would have to order them cut for you. but that's more to do with our construction. only roofs are made from timber and then large beams like 5x8
then many >1x2 to hold the tiles.
what is the equivalent of a 2by4?
90x45 dressed
everyone call it 2 4, 2 6, 2 8 or whatever but technically a 2 4 is 48x98mm.
and yes houses are obvioisly all drawn in metric wtf did you think? even high rise or massive warehouses are all drawn in mm.
>How tall is this builiding we just won the build contract for?
mm?
>Wowee!
the great thing about metric is that 548644mm is 548,644m and thats more than 1/2 of 1000m so we can say
>we won a contract for a house taller than half a kilometer.
More proof that metric is non-intuitive. No american would ever say "we won a contract for a house half a mile high", because the superior system of units makes it obvious that someone (probably the french guy we just hired) made a stupid blunder, while the german guys are busy placing orders for boards longer than the General Sherman.
using one base10 unit for everything is pretty based, no fractions, no decimals just one simple number.
No decimals?
Are you suggesting that when you are talking about 10 and a half centimeters that you will instead jump down a unit and say 105mm? And then if you need more precision you will go 1050μm? And so on, and so forth?
You'd rather change units than use a fraction?
Personally, I find the simple arithmetic involved with using the imperial system to be much more intuitive than memorizing a table of prefixes and suffixes with their associated factors.
If someone said to me they measured something at 1050μm -- it would take me a while to figure out how big that is in relation to a unit I can actually conceptualize, like centimeters. I'd have to remember that
>just above micrometers is millimeters, and centimeters follow;
>okay, that's two steps, so move the decimal point two spaces to the left...
>got it. 10 and a half centimeters.
Or they could just say 10 and a half centimeters to begin with and I'd have a pretty good idea of how big that is.
I don't know why I mentioned suffixes.
Forget everything I said, it's obvious that I'm a moron.
in the professional fields when building houses or highway bridges you dont need better precision than mm so thats the standard, period. no meters no centimeters just mm. anyone used to metric do the conversion themself in their head if they want to deal with cm or m on the site but on the drawings, when you mail someone else, order stuff, do calculations and such everything is in mm.
when i was a noob i ordered stuff in cm and got it back in mm, you dont do that mistake more than once. lucky for me it was just some sheet metal profiles and it cost nothing but my pride and an hour of work.
you imperials completely overcomplicate metric in fascinating ways. 105mm = 10,5cm = 0,105m how is this in any way hard? dude you learned to count base10 at school and its used in all normal math, its the exact same thing.
for machining and precision work then yeah its decimal mm or micrometer.
It's only difficult if you insist on "no fractions, no decimals", which would require memorizing the table of prefixes, which is more difficult than successive halvings in the imperial system.
>memorizing the table of prefixes
huh? is it harder to remember mm, cm, m, km compared to inch, feet, yards and miles? and dont get me started on the conversions between them....
nano, pico, micro, milli, centi, deci, kilo, mega, giga, etc., etc... just to avoid ever writing a decimal? Silly.
omg you are autistic.
this is a thread about houses and walls and 2by4s and everything i said have been related to that.
>in the professional fields when building houses or highway bridges you dont need better precision than mm so thats the standard.
so where do you find the picos or nanos? you as all imperial users overcomplicating something stupid simple.
pic very related, the west wall is 14880mm, you think 14,88 meter then you lay down the ruler and measure 1488cm with mm precision.
its so simple and removes all confusion to lay down the drawings in mm only. if we didnt standardize it its guaranteed to happend that someone ordered raingutters 14,88m long only to recieve them 14,88cm long.
meant this drawing, now show me the total clusterfrick of a drawing laid out in imperial instead?
Are you the anon that said
>no fractions, no decimals just one simple number
?
THAT is what I'm disputing. In order to avoid writing fractions and decimals, you'd have to change your prefixes all the time.
Metric isn't complicated -- but it IS complicated if you insist on not using fractions and decimals. I might be autistic, but maybe you're illiterate; I spelled this out for you already.
Why can't we use your same "it's so simple!" argument against your own self in just the same way?
>lol stupid metricgay can't understand fractions
>everything in construction is based on the inch and the foot -- what's so hard about remembering that there are 12 inches in a foot?
>seriously you complicate simple things like dividing by 2 in the most asinine ways
yes, exactly. i haven't memorized the order. that's entirely my point.
as i said this is only in the world of costruction, what other fields do i dont know. in everyday speak we use whatever we want, a guy might say he is one eighty high and that can mean both 180cm or 1,80m both giving the same result so who cares?
why do you insist on using decimals and prefixes? is it your brain on imperial because you clearly havent seen the beauty of metric then. in construction you need mm precision, so you if you insisted on using meters you would still have to write down 12,345m. but you see unlike imperial you can just move the decimal around or in the case of mm we simply just skipped it. 12345mm, plain and simple, dont even need the prefix everyone knows what you are talking about. when i read that number my head instantly read it as 12something meters. you cant use your argument "its so simple" because it isnt. its not base ten thus not compatible with our current numbering system. how many inches does your head read when you hear 57 feet? or how many feet do you read from 127inches? if you need to math to convert it its not simple.
> t. I'm not whomever you are replying to, but i am in this thread.
Having imperial or 'standard' in your head, means it's more dextrous. Just like having to learn hungarian, or the violin - or both - it stretches the mind and makes it able to handle more sophisticated results, if it's genetically-capable.
You know, how you... let's pretend you're german (not Black person german but actual german), and you already know english, and probably a few other languages, and that enhances you culturally, in your brain, your mind.
Knowing an alternate measurement system helps the brain similarly.
> enter the aldrich engineer tape, in tens and half-tenths of an inch.
>nano, pico, micro, milli,
might want to try that one more time dumbass
They do it the same but they rounded it to mm. you got boards 1200mm x 2400mm instead of 4' x 8'. Then the lumber is 38mm x 89 mm, 2400mm length, so really, 7 feet 10 in and some. Studs are spaced 600mm apart, so there is really not much more sense to the metric system. What's even funnier is how all tools are still standard size, but millimeterized. You get 254mm and 305mm saw blades (10 in and 12 in), then you have grinders with 114mm (4.5 in). Don't get me started on plumbing.
"2x4" exists in Europe. The actual size of a "planed" 2x4 in America is 1½" by 3½", so really 38mm x 89mm. Same size as English lumber at least. In France I think their studs are typically 38mm x 100mm (1.5" by 4.0" , based).
do american homes really melt in the rain?
The way the siding pieces overlap means that running water (i.e. rain) doesn't reach the nail holes.