They're not bad for homeowner use. The problem is the battery cells and motors on these things are so low quality the whole thing stalls for heavy duty tasks (ie mixing cement in a 5 gallon bucket). It's so bad that people have reported not much better performance than 12V tools which are lighter and more compact.
I've got a set of ryobi tools and they're fine for a swinging dick that needs to cut some boards or whatever once every few months. As said I've noticed that the battery capacity is kinda weak but for your average homeowner they're all you need.
I had a 9$ drill master from hazard freight that was perfectly good until I tried to drill through steel, them the thing burst into flames. So long as you're doing light duty stuff, cheap tools are fine.
I had a 9$ drill master from hazard freight that was perfectly good until I tried to drill through steel, them the thing burst into flames. So long as you're doing light duty stuff, cheap tools are fine.
>So long as you're doing light duty stuff, cheap tools are fine.
golden rule. your average homeowner can use piss-cheap tools for 95% of their work and I recommend they do so unless they want to flex
that being said the Ryobi green is radioactive to me, I shant touch it
I've been using a Ryobi generator since 2018 and it has been an absolute workhorse. It has been battered and bruised by other people having borrowed it over the years and still just works. I originally bought it simply because it was the cheapest generator with wheels that I could find. I would buy it again, no question. Why pay more?
I just buy whatever tools I need when they're cheap on slickdeals. I'm in Milwaukee, Dewalt, Ryobi, Rigid, Craftsman pole saw, and even a Hart angle grinder.
I see corded tools as "buy the best you can afford, ignore brand loyalty."
I'm only getting DeWalt for cordless, though. 60V batteries working on (and often upping the performance of) 20V tools while the 60V tools beat corded models is the big win point to me for future tool buying.
I really like my little cordless 1/2 gallon HEPA vac, too. Works great when drilling into a wall, easy to hold it up right under the bit.
> 60v more than corded
Not even close, the 6AH 60v is (very roughly) five TIMEs less available power over, say, an hour of use.
Or, looking at it another way, compared to a corded, it will work for maybe 12 minutes.
They’re just wiring the cells in series rather than parallel so they can use thinner wires.
Your 12v car battery can deliver something like 200 amps for short periods of time, this thing is the the same boat, but doesn’t have jumper-cable sized wires.
Oh, and metabo is making brushless corded drills, and their cordless table saw has a corded adapter for it. That seems incredibly based.
I'm talking overall tool power, not specifically just run time (which depends on the specific batteries). As in the 60V circular saw can cut faster than a corded one.
> 60v “cuts faster”
All other things being equal, that doesn’t happen in normal circumstances.
The only way that could happen is if you were cutting through a 8×8 oak beam, and the corded somehow managed to stall out. In theory, the cordless could have dumped it’s entire stored energy into the cut at the cost of completely or partially destroying itself.
It’s pretty unlikely because the corded can also deliver monstrous amounts of power at start-up and near stall before the circuit breaker shuts it off.
DeWalt (et. al.) is a primarily a battery company.
For a 60v @ 12 Ah battery…. Wait…actually 54v, dewalt lies about that… that’s .65kWh capacity for, say, $300. Actual cost for the batteries is around $72.
In addition, on those 20v/60v systems, I don’t know what “12 AH” even means—is that for 20v or the 60v? And if they were lying about the voltage, they’re probably lying about the AH rating as well.
It’s acceptable to do it in Wh which is independent of the voltage (which can be stepped up or down, arbitrarily anyway, at about 95% efficiency).
It's at 20V so it's directly comparable to the standard batteries for capacity.
12 months ago
Anonymous
Ok, so I did some research on that.
They say the 12Ah 60v battery has 6 times the performance of a 1.5Ah 20v battery.
Doing some calculations, you are kind of correct—there’s no way it could be 12Ah @ 60v. So it’s 12AH at 20v. That’s not deceptive marketing. Also, it should be 8 times the runtime, not 6. Lol what? Are these guys for real?
So it’s a 9Ah pack at 162Wh, so the batteries cost them closer to 20 bucks. Sells for 300. I see why they’re a battery company now.
I’m sure it feels more powerful because you paid through the nose for it.
Also note their newest skilsaw, DCS578X2 has a rated output of 2456 watts. At that drain rate it will exhaust the entire battery in 3.9 minutes (at perfect efficiency, so in reality, likely 3 minutes). That’s gotta be good for it eh?
This is good for backyard work while my wife is watching. > “What are you doing sitting out there with a case of beer?” > Battery is dead, should be recharged in another… oh… 4 hours or so.
12 months ago
Anonymous
That's certainly an assumption based on no testing. Probably some really flawed math in there, too. Do you really think they're selling to pros based on that kind of runtime?
12 months ago
Anonymous
> flawed math, no testing.
I’m just going by what dewalt said on their product pages and connecting the dots.
1.5 Ah × 6 = 9 Ah equivalent to that “12 Ah/60v” pack. It looks like they probably tested it, and the the losses from DC/DC down converting from 60v to 20v turned 3Ah of capacity into heat. Nice!
That’s the bad news. The good news is that the torque test channel found out that ryobi seriously UNDERrates some of their tools, so people will look at the “poor” ryobi specs and go for the much more expensive Milwaukee—when they’re probably using the same components inside.
12 months ago
Anonymous
Milwaukee's debacle with their 1/2" impact wrench redesign they slipped in as the same model didn't give me much confidence in them.
That said, DeWalts might not win every Torque Test/Project Farm show-off, but they're usually tough enough to survive everything thrown at them and keep running like a champ. Don't know why you get so titty twisted about the high end ones.
If Ryobi works for you, great. Just replace the awful batteries it uses with DeWalt's and an adapter.
12 months ago
Bepis
>replace the awful batteries and use an adapter
What a shitty piece of advice. Ryobi’s battery design is already awkward on certain tools and now you want to add a clunky Chinesium adapter? And of course there’s a good chance the shitty Chinesium contacts on the adapter mean you’re getting resistance under high load, and hopefully there’s no protection circuitry missing with whatever battery combo you use that harms the tools and/or batteries.
The Ryobi batteries are fine. If you’re really worried about the cheaper cells they’re putting in their $40 4.0Ah packs, then pony up another $10 per pack and get a couple 4.0Ah HP batteies with the constant sales.
12 months ago
Anonymous
>Durr a simple electrical connection change between connectors is bad >But Ryobi's notoriously bad batteries good
12 months ago
Anonymous
get an adapter for your adapter bro
It lets you use a different package of 18650s where you're already using 18650s bro.
12 months ago
Anonymous
Not all 18650s are the same quality.
And don't forget that DW also makes pancake Li-ION stacked batteries now, too.
12 months ago
Anonymous
ya. I got some of the $15 knockoff ryos. They're 5Ah size and worse than the OEM 1.5Ah. Old and tired dewalt stuff doesn't do any better after they've seen several years of being ridden hard.
12 months ago
Anonymous
Yeah, but they take years to get that bad, not out of the box.
Plus you'll keep getting new ones as you buy more tools if you're smart about it.
12 months ago
Bepis
It’s more than just a + and - pin, especially when you start getting into the HP stuff and newer brushless tools.
Also one of the big complaints about the Ryobi post battery design is that it comes from a time of NiCd packs and not a ton of current. On the non-HP packs, it has about half of the contact area for the + and - pins as most slide pack designs. So now you’re going to take a Chinese adapter with some potmetal contacts that are likely loose, add another set of shitty contacts with whatever slide packs you’re using, and it’s nothing but potential resistance.
And since you’re posting these new DeWalt packs, remember that you’re not going to get any real benefit from newer HP/HO packs. Most of them have a second set of + and - pins like pic related, including the Ryobi HP packs. Also there may some sort of communication that lets the HP tool recognize the HP battery. The adapters are not going to utilize any of that stuff.
Go ahead and use some DeWalt Powerstack pack, I highly doubt it will have any more power in a Ryobi HP brushless saw than a standard 1.5Ah cheap Ryobi pack. And a Ryobi HP pack in that HP saw will definitely have better performance than the DeWalt pack with the adapter.
12 months ago
Anonymous
>and the the losses from DC/DC down converting from 60v to 20v turned 3Ah of capacity into heat
Stepping down DC voltages is the easiest kind of power conversion. Modern buck converters can easily have efficiencies of over 90%.
>DeWalt (et. al.) is a primarily a battery company.
It's like calling General Electric "primarily a lightbulb manufacturing company". DeWalt is owned by Stanley which makes them primarily a Corrupt Connecticut tax subsidized corporation that buys our other brands made in china.
I'm talking overall tool power, not specifically just run time (which depends on the specific batteries). As in the 60V circular saw can cut faster than a corded one.
I ignore battery theory and choose by tool performance. The rest is just entertainment.
Brand loyalty is moronic. Pragmatism is good. I've many tools of many brands.
This beast is everything Torque Test Channel says it is. I used it to pull an LS from salvage a few days back and it slew the Yukon we decapitated effortlessly. We now leave my bros Milwaukee in the truck as backup:
This motherfricker sliced Yukon frame box tubing almost like it was wood. The short stroke is perfect for salvage work to avoid stabbing parts we want to save:
Performance, speed, and durability are not described by voltages. What is the motor made of? What is the material giving the inertial kick you want that makes it perform better than others? Other important questions would be "what is the resell-ability?", "does it have a warranty?" Is also an important factor because then you can not only use it as intended, but also sell it and get some of your money back later for a new one.
https://i.imgur.com/EfBAIAI.png
Stop making fun of me
I've been using a Ryobi generator since 2018 and it has been an absolute workhorse. It has been battered and bruised by other people having borrowed it over the years and still just works. I originally bought it simply because it was the cheapest generator with wheels that I could find. I would buy it again, no question. Why pay more?
I have a ryobi pressure washer with one of those invincible honda 160cc's. Thing is a beast. Also have a collection of dozens of ryobi batteries/tools that are decent for the price.
Brand loyalty is moronic. Pragmatism is good. I've many tools of many brands.
This beast is everything Torque Test Channel says it is. I used it to pull an LS from salvage a few days back and it slew the Yukon we decapitated effortlessly. We now leave my bros Milwaukee in the truck as backup:
This motherfricker sliced Yukon frame box tubing almost like it was wood. The short stroke is perfect for salvage work to avoid stabbing parts we want to save:
Brand loyalty is moronic. Pragmatism is good. I've many tools of many brands.
This beast is everything Torque Test Channel says it is. I used it to pull an LS from salvage a few days back and it slew the Yukon we decapitated effortlessly. We now leave my bros Milwaukee in the truck as backup:
This motherfricker sliced Yukon frame box tubing almost like it was wood. The short stroke is perfect for salvage work to avoid stabbing parts we want to save:
>Milwaukee in the truck as backup
Milwaukee is Chinese garbage too now though. I spent over $400 on a picrel drain snake from them and it fricking died in a month.
They're not bad for homeowner use. The problem is the battery cells and motors on these things are so low quality the whole thing stalls for heavy duty tasks (ie mixing cement in a 5 gallon bucket). It's so bad that people have reported not much better performance than 12V tools which are lighter and more compact.
I've got a set of ryobi tools and they're fine for a swinging dick that needs to cut some boards or whatever once every few months. As said I've noticed that the battery capacity is kinda weak but for your average homeowner they're all you need.
i got a ryobi plug in, better torque
I had a 9$ drill master from hazard freight that was perfectly good until I tried to drill through steel, them the thing burst into flames. So long as you're doing light duty stuff, cheap tools are fine.
>So long as you're doing light duty stuff, cheap tools are fine.
golden rule. your average homeowner can use piss-cheap tools for 95% of their work and I recommend they do so unless they want to flex
that being said the Ryobi green is radioactive to me, I shant touch it
Stop being poor.
works for me
Stay strong King.
>me
perfectly good tools
The rest of their products are suspect to bad which I don't understand when Rigid and Milwaukee are capable brands all under TTI.
I've been using a Ryobi generator since 2018 and it has been an absolute workhorse. It has been battered and bruised by other people having borrowed it over the years and still just works. I originally bought it simply because it was the cheapest generator with wheels that I could find. I would buy it again, no question. Why pay more?
Forgot to attach pic.
I actually got this Ryobi generator from Bunnings. Ozito isn't bad either.
I just buy whatever tools I need when they're cheap on slickdeals. I'm in Milwaukee, Dewalt, Ryobi, Rigid, Craftsman pole saw, and even a Hart angle grinder.
I see corded tools as "buy the best you can afford, ignore brand loyalty."
I'm only getting DeWalt for cordless, though. 60V batteries working on (and often upping the performance of) 20V tools while the 60V tools beat corded models is the big win point to me for future tool buying.
I really like my little cordless 1/2 gallon HEPA vac, too. Works great when drilling into a wall, easy to hold it up right under the bit.
> 60v more than corded
Not even close, the 6AH 60v is (very roughly) five TIMEs less available power over, say, an hour of use.
Or, looking at it another way, compared to a corded, it will work for maybe 12 minutes.
They’re just wiring the cells in series rather than parallel so they can use thinner wires.
Your 12v car battery can deliver something like 200 amps for short periods of time, this thing is the the same boat, but doesn’t have jumper-cable sized wires.
Oh, and metabo is making brushless corded drills, and their cordless table saw has a corded adapter for it. That seems incredibly based.
I'm talking overall tool power, not specifically just run time (which depends on the specific batteries). As in the 60V circular saw can cut faster than a corded one.
> 60v “cuts faster”
All other things being equal, that doesn’t happen in normal circumstances.
The only way that could happen is if you were cutting through a 8×8 oak beam, and the corded somehow managed to stall out. In theory, the cordless could have dumped it’s entire stored energy into the cut at the cost of completely or partially destroying itself.
It’s pretty unlikely because the corded can also deliver monstrous amounts of power at start-up and near stall before the circuit breaker shuts it off.
DeWalt (et. al.) is a primarily a battery company.
For a 60v @ 12 Ah battery…. Wait…actually 54v, dewalt lies about that… that’s .65kWh capacity for, say, $300. Actual cost for the batteries is around $72.
In addition, on those 20v/60v systems, I don’t know what “12 AH” even means—is that for 20v or the 60v? And if they were lying about the voltage, they’re probably lying about the AH rating as well.
It’s acceptable to do it in Wh which is independent of the voltage (which can be stepped up or down, arbitrarily anyway, at about 95% efficiency).
It's at 20V so it's directly comparable to the standard batteries for capacity.
Ok, so I did some research on that.
They say the 12Ah 60v battery has 6 times the performance of a 1.5Ah 20v battery.
Doing some calculations, you are kind of correct—there’s no way it could be 12Ah @ 60v. So it’s 12AH at 20v. That’s not deceptive marketing. Also, it should be 8 times the runtime, not 6. Lol what? Are these guys for real?
So it’s a 9Ah pack at 162Wh, so the batteries cost them closer to 20 bucks. Sells for 300. I see why they’re a battery company now.
I’m sure it feels more powerful because you paid through the nose for it.
Also note their newest skilsaw, DCS578X2 has a rated output of 2456 watts. At that drain rate it will exhaust the entire battery in 3.9 minutes (at perfect efficiency, so in reality, likely 3 minutes). That’s gotta be good for it eh?
This is good for backyard work while my wife is watching.
> “What are you doing sitting out there with a case of beer?”
> Battery is dead, should be recharged in another… oh… 4 hours or so.
That's certainly an assumption based on no testing. Probably some really flawed math in there, too. Do you really think they're selling to pros based on that kind of runtime?
> flawed math, no testing.
I’m just going by what dewalt said on their product pages and connecting the dots.
1.5 Ah × 6 = 9 Ah equivalent to that “12 Ah/60v” pack. It looks like they probably tested it, and the the losses from DC/DC down converting from 60v to 20v turned 3Ah of capacity into heat. Nice!
That’s the bad news. The good news is that the torque test channel found out that ryobi seriously UNDERrates some of their tools, so people will look at the “poor” ryobi specs and go for the much more expensive Milwaukee—when they’re probably using the same components inside.
Milwaukee's debacle with their 1/2" impact wrench redesign they slipped in as the same model didn't give me much confidence in them.
That said, DeWalts might not win every Torque Test/Project Farm show-off, but they're usually tough enough to survive everything thrown at them and keep running like a champ. Don't know why you get so titty twisted about the high end ones.
If Ryobi works for you, great. Just replace the awful batteries it uses with DeWalt's and an adapter.
>replace the awful batteries and use an adapter
What a shitty piece of advice. Ryobi’s battery design is already awkward on certain tools and now you want to add a clunky Chinesium adapter? And of course there’s a good chance the shitty Chinesium contacts on the adapter mean you’re getting resistance under high load, and hopefully there’s no protection circuitry missing with whatever battery combo you use that harms the tools and/or batteries.
The Ryobi batteries are fine. If you’re really worried about the cheaper cells they’re putting in their $40 4.0Ah packs, then pony up another $10 per pack and get a couple 4.0Ah HP batteies with the constant sales.
>Durr a simple electrical connection change between connectors is bad
>But Ryobi's notoriously bad batteries good
get an adapter for your adapter bro
It lets you use a different package of 18650s where you're already using 18650s bro.
Not all 18650s are the same quality.
And don't forget that DW also makes pancake Li-ION stacked batteries now, too.
ya. I got some of the $15 knockoff ryos. They're 5Ah size and worse than the OEM 1.5Ah. Old and tired dewalt stuff doesn't do any better after they've seen several years of being ridden hard.
Yeah, but they take years to get that bad, not out of the box.
Plus you'll keep getting new ones as you buy more tools if you're smart about it.
It’s more than just a + and - pin, especially when you start getting into the HP stuff and newer brushless tools.
Also one of the big complaints about the Ryobi post battery design is that it comes from a time of NiCd packs and not a ton of current. On the non-HP packs, it has about half of the contact area for the + and - pins as most slide pack designs. So now you’re going to take a Chinese adapter with some potmetal contacts that are likely loose, add another set of shitty contacts with whatever slide packs you’re using, and it’s nothing but potential resistance.
And since you’re posting these new DeWalt packs, remember that you’re not going to get any real benefit from newer HP/HO packs. Most of them have a second set of + and - pins like pic related, including the Ryobi HP packs. Also there may some sort of communication that lets the HP tool recognize the HP battery. The adapters are not going to utilize any of that stuff.
Go ahead and use some DeWalt Powerstack pack, I highly doubt it will have any more power in a Ryobi HP brushless saw than a standard 1.5Ah cheap Ryobi pack. And a Ryobi HP pack in that HP saw will definitely have better performance than the DeWalt pack with the adapter.
>and the the losses from DC/DC down converting from 60v to 20v turned 3Ah of capacity into heat
Stepping down DC voltages is the easiest kind of power conversion. Modern buck converters can easily have efficiencies of over 90%.
I ignore battery theory and choose by tool performance. The rest is just entertainment.
>DeWalt (et. al.) is a primarily a battery company.
It's like calling General Electric "primarily a lightbulb manufacturing company". DeWalt is owned by Stanley which makes them primarily a Corrupt Connecticut tax subsidized corporation that buys our other brands made in china.
Performance, speed, and durability are not described by voltages. What is the motor made of? What is the material giving the inertial kick you want that makes it perform better than others? Other important questions would be "what is the resell-ability?", "does it have a warranty?" Is also an important factor because then you can not only use it as intended, but also sell it and get some of your money back later for a new one.
I have a ryobi pressure washer with one of those invincible honda 160cc's. Thing is a beast. Also have a collection of dozens of ryobi batteries/tools that are decent for the price.
Brand loyalty is moronic. Pragmatism is good. I've many tools of many brands.
This beast is everything Torque Test Channel says it is. I used it to pull an LS from salvage a few days back and it slew the Yukon we decapitated effortlessly. We now leave my bros Milwaukee in the truck as backup:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B9T68W3B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This motherfricker sliced Yukon frame box tubing almost like it was wood. The short stroke is perfect for salvage work to avoid stabbing parts we want to save:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B086M6KKKX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
That vac is amazing, I use it all the time.
>Milwaukee in the truck as backup
Milwaukee is Chinese garbage too now though. I spent over $400 on a picrel drain snake from them and it fricking died in a month.
Decent cheap consumer to prosumer tools. Needs one fix, though:
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/FRFz9hFrnkI
direct tools outlet has ryobi and the other company of the same products under a diff name for super cheap