could an under sink on demand water heater serve a thermostatic shower and two taps about 10 metres away from it, not at the same time like but is the distance an issue?
sqtddtot Stupid Questions that don't deserve their own thread
could an under sink on demand water heater serve a thermostatic shower and two taps about 10 metres away from it, not at the same time like but is the distance an issue?
>is the distance an issue
not really. You have to run that water out of the pipe to get the hot water there, and you will lose a bit of heat through the surface of that pipe, which could be mitigated with insulation if it's an issue.
what the frick is a thermostatic shower.
one that works off the hot water you'd usually get from a tank or boiler and controls the outlet temperature by mixing the inlet cold with inlet hot with a thermostat
What do ‘led drivers’ do apart from mains to 24V adapters? I have a spare industrial 24V power supply, can’t I use that with led strips, instead of buying a led driver? It’s for about 1.5m of led strips totalling 25W. Power supply is 60W.
> thermostatic shower
He probably means thermostatic shower valve. The hot water demand is not constant as the thermostat valve can change the flow based on actual temperature
led drivers are for powering raw leds.
if you have led strips 'drivers' arent needed
just hit it with 24v and enough amps
>What do ‘led drivers’ do
They regulate the current. I suggest you read the wikipedia article on them. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LED_circuit
If you are modulating the light (like the led on the remote control) to send a signal you will need fancy drivers.
If not, look at the iv curve for the led.
The led in series has voltage drops that are additive (green led is like 2.3v drop) and then just set a big ass power resistor to ensure you don't draw more current than the led is rated for.
Thanks for the resources, but still not 100% sure since I have no data sheet or schematic. Listing for the led strip just says 24V, 12W/meter (60 leds x 0.2W).
So I assume the LEDs are laid out in a way that I can just supply 24V with an SMPS, and it won’t draw more current than it needs. I don’t need to modulate, just on/off and my supply lists like 1% max deviation
Can I use Polyfilla outside to repair wood on my deck? Anything better to suggest?
Depends on how bad the boards are and what you consider 'repaired'. Usually on decks when the boards get bad you unscrew them and flip them. Then when both sides are bad you replace them.
Snaptoggle minimum. I'd hang it off a stud.
Saline
If you have a compressor blow out the drain line. They're normally 1/2" and get plugged with anything.
>you unscrew them and flip them
Saved
All my fire alarms have started to eat shit and just beep with new batteries and everything
Went and bought some and they were ones I had to hardwire
Which is fine if that's what I have to do then it is what it is
What type do I need to replace these? Seems they've updated the plugs since these were sold and it's not this type anymore. Is there an adaptor for the new type to old plug?
There are a handful of types you may encounter. I assume it's the same strategy as Apple with shitty proprietary plugs keeping you in the family and making "getting out" more expensive and difficult. There are adapters. "Smoke Alarm Adapter" or similar on ebay or Amazon, you'll see only a couple common kinds, don't know if you'll find the one you need. If not, you'll have to pull the base for that smoke alarm and rewire it. Any moron can do it, get on YouTube for some handholding so you don't Edison yourself and you'll be fine.
I'm comfortable rewiring shit
Just have a pretty big home and I wanted to avoid turning a 30 min project into a couple hour affair by having to rewire 20+ fricking alarms
What a shitshow, I had no idea they did this bullshit
Oof, that's a b***h. Even going long-life battery units, still a b***h, you just have 20+ batteries to change within a few months of each other somewhere down the line.
Something to keep in mind, some (few, rare, I don't fricking know) actually have dedicated smoke detector circuits. One goes off, they all go off. It'd be good to know if your place is wired for this, even though it's incredibly unlikely and I've never actually encountered one outside of a catalog, frick it'd be frustrating to figure it out later when nothing is working right.
When I bought m6 israelite fire alarms they came with adapters. Also there are new lithium ones that last 10 years
How big do vent holes need to be for decent passive cooling on small electronics?
Big enough.
If you're doubtful, get a temperature probe for $5 and see how hot it's getting.
Seriously, this depends on so many factors it's a joke to try to guess at it. What electronics? In what? Where are they? What do they do? How much power do they consume? What has heatsinks, what doesn't, how heavy is the PCB, how much heat do the various components generate, where does it dissipate . . . . . .
120w passive nano psu and a fan controller, both with no heatsinks. Let me rephrase: how small can I make holes before convection is stopped?
In that case, fricking tiny. Individual passages no smaller than a hole with diameter double the material thickness, rule of thumb, definitely not a hard rule. A pair of holes that size placed randomly would be enough for convection to start working. Total area needed depends a lot on the geometry and environment, more is almost always going to be better, location is important though.
Small holes on top and bottom is better than 1 big hole on top or bottom, should be obvious, just have to remember to consider it when you consider your design. An even distribution of holes is great for passive airflow, bad for convection. If you want real convection action, you gotta decide on your intake and exhaust areas. You're building the world's shittiest jet engine, it can't be swiss cheese, there's an in and an out.
Thanks.
Not sure if its a better question for PrepHole but how do I prevent someone from doing burnouts in the road? Maybe something slippery so they cant get enough traction or something sticky to prevent friction loss? I have a boomer neighbor who does burnouts in his shitty infinity whenever I am in my yard, but if I am inside he wont. He never used to do it when I first moved in the house a few years ago, and just started recently.
Anyways I was thinking some type or oil or grease. I'm not trying to frick up regular traffic or my vehicles, so I can't use nails or spikes. I've also thought about just dumping pea gravels out too. Also it's a backroad that isn't super busy and the speed limit is 35. Any ideas would be appreciated.
for rear wheel drive
basically you hold the brake a little
enough to hold the front wheels but not enough to stop the rear wheels
read the question, dumbass
Gravel
He wouldn't dare debt his baby
Furnace in the attic has a huge drip pan. went to go change the filter and saw it's filled with water. Even worse, it's leveled by two pieces of (now rotting) wood.
Any idea what's going on? Pretty sure I just use the heat pump for HVAC and the furnace for emergency heating (though I doubt it's wired correctly.)
How's your heat pump setup? Conversions are typically added onto the furnace.
The heat pump forms condensation inside your duct when your run the A/C, that's normal. It's supposed to drip out through a dedicated channel/line into a drip pan, or into a small sump with an automatic pump to drain it to the outside when necessary.
If a line gets clogged, dirty, whatever, you can end up with excessive water built up in places it doesn't belong, or a sudden release of more water than your drip pan can hold. More likely in your case, sounds like it's really not handling your humidity well. Has it been unusually humid in your area lately or over the past few months? Lots of rain?
Either way, water is normal, it's just not being dealt with correctly for whatever reason. In the event your heat pump is standalone like a mini-split and doesn't tie into your ductwork, then you probably just have a water leak somewhere letting water into your furnace. I'd doubt that though.
Hey friend, thanks for the response. We had a massive heat wave with humidity upwards of 80-90% for over a week.
It drips out normally through a pvc running out the side, but I had to take three buckets worth of water out from the pan so I wonder why that happened, maybe there is an issue with the line.
It unfortunately dripped a little bit on the ceiling before I caught it. Worried about mold formation in the attic and the wall as an aside. But seriously, frick my attic. Tons of old insulation, animal shit from a previous insulation,and spiders everywhere.
Also, the water sensor didn't do shit kek - probably not configured correctly, fricking flip.
I want to fix this Ikea Enhet mirror cabinet to a plasterboard wall, it's 17cm deep and weighs about 20kg.
Which fixings should I use? Are the regular universal plugs a good idea or should I get something like snaptoggle ones?
I have some string-cord Venetian blinds that I want to motorize and put on a timer. What's the simplest way to accomplish this? I've looked into some consumer devices but the ones I've found either assume you have a bead cord or are made for roll-up shades. Given the choice I'd rather just buy some cheap piece of shit device from China than spend a week wiring and programming motors.
You want a horizontal blind kit like this piece of shit https://www.amazon.com/Somfy-Clever-Tilt-Blind-Motorization/dp/B09B7SVFRY/
You'll find ones that work for your blinds. There are cheaper ones too, this is just an example to get you down the right track.
youre sweeping the floor and you see a lego in the dust/dirt pile, what do you do?
How to make 9ct gold wedding ring smaller?
I am less of a fat c**t than before and my ring is loose now.
I do not want to be without it for the week or so a israeliteeller is going to take to actually resize it, and I also just enjoy PrepHoleing things.
Can I just heat it and squeeze it in a vice?
Or can I solder/weld/melt another piece of metal (probably copper?) into the inside?
Any other suggestions?
I am a woodwork guy, I know nothing about working with metals.
You can't. You need to cut it, solder/weld it back together, then grind it down and re-polish it, then replate with gold.
They have inserts for making loose rings fit better.
You can cheat by flattening one side by punching something.
I did this to my class ring (after turning it over) after losing 60lbs and it fit well after
What can I inject into my fingers to make them larger?
Is aquarium silicon safe?
Kek why
You be looking at high end melamine and even that's properties will vary based on your mold shape
Can you drive a home made car on the road?
Can't find any info out there
Depends on your local laws.
In the United States, it's pretty easy in some states, impossible in others. Florida is of note, they'll register nearly anything, there's a little extra paperwork and you can't build a plywood shitbox, but they'll facilitate homemade vehicles.
Throughout much of the country though, it's anywhere from very difficult to totally impossible.
Starting from an existing vehicle, using an existing chassis that has a title, is the usual shortcut/work-around, but again, depends on your local laws.
You can use the Google machine to look into kit-car and custom vehicle laws in your area. Again, many states have provisions for kit-cars that may apply to other homemade vehicles.
Outside the US, crapnshoot. It varies wildly from place to place. In New Zealand, they were historically notable for allowing virtually anything with at least 2 tires and brake lights on the road. I don't know if they're still that way, but they have quite a car culture there, may be.
>it's pretty easy in some states, impossible in others
Confirming. California is the opposite of Florida. My dad bought a hot rod, the thing was probably built 20-30 years ago. They wanted original receipts and pictures from basically every major part that went into the car, plus serial numbers if applicable. Obviously, these aren't available, so it's flat-out impossible to register in the state.
It's possible to do here if you have everything they want, but it's a massive pain in the ass even in a best-case scenario. And god help you on the insurance rates.
Register it in a neighboring state with laxed laws and transfer the title to CA.
this guy
covers it very well, but I will add that a lot of states where it appears strictly speaking impossible to do this legally, there are actually workarounds.
I knew a guy in minecraft who couldn't get his homemade RV registered as a motor vehicle, so instead he got it registered as a homemade trailer and then filed a form for a "correction" to the title to reflect the fact that it was actually a motor vehicle rather than a trailer. Sometimes you have to be creative with this crap if you can't quite figure out how to do it the straightforward way
Just get a purpose build electric shower if you need a cheap shower solution which doesn't involve a large boiler. They're only 150 UK pound.
A shower will run through the water from a close in boiler in a 2-3 minutes. Less if it's high flow.
Thats £120, movin to a place with no gas and it's got a tank as is, see no need heating 120litres if its only ever gonna serve a shower and two taps
Have you actually measured the power consumption of the 120 litre boiler? It might be a non issue.
Is a standing freezer ran with temp control to be above freezing cheaper to run than a standing fridge?
Depends on the insulation and it’s thickness. Probably the same cost tbh.
Thats what I've come to think too, thanks goys. Wished I'd realized that before I destroyed the in-door compartments.
Marginally.
Table saw if you got one, hand plane if you don't.
Piece of rubber or plastic jammed in between the offending panels.
I got a piece of MDF that’s not square by a tiny bit. What’s a good way to remove the part in red? Hand saw just slides off and I don’t have a track saw.
Forgot pic sry
My back has been hurting terribly lately, someone adviced me to get a TENS machine for pain relief. They're tiny machines that send a small current through your skin and nerves in varying frequencies and voltage. I'm too broke to afford a good one so I ordered a chinese one with preset settings, I should be able to see the frequency and pulse width the device is outputting with any simple oscilloscope, right?
>My back has been hurting terribly lately
If it's lower back pain, before you try electrocuting yourself, get a firmer bed, sit in a proper chair (and that might take some experimentation, just because it's comfy doesn't mean it's healthy, and vice versa), and do the yoga cobra pose once or twice per day.
Bend down and touch your toes every day
my cousing is a chiropractor and use this, but not with everybody. if the pain is caused by a muscle, it will probably works
My treadmill creeks a bit, I've tightened up what I can but I think it's mainly due to the body panels rubbing against each other. What would I get to best address this, silicone lubricant?
what's the best way to convert chrome sockets into hole punches for gaskets?
I need to make the edges of the socket sharp, would files or a deburring tool be better?
I'd drill them out on a press because sharpening the outside won't get rid of the hex pattern and a deburr tool or dremel would take forever to grind out the inside.
A file or deburring tool will not work. You could certainly use a 60 grit flap disc on an angle grinder. It's not a very good way to make gasket punches though because of the shape of the inside of the socket. Much better to sharpen iron pipe and other round stock. If you shoot empty shell casings make nice disposable gasket punches.
Is there a nonstick, somewhat rigid plastic that can be vacuum formed, something like an FEP sheet? It would save a lot of time and materials if I could vacuum form a resin-casting negative mold instead of dicking around with brushable silicone and fiberglass mother molds.
Try the stuff RC dudes use to make their RC car bodies.
Non-stick is irrelevant, you can spray it with mold release. But you're not going to get a high level of detail from vacuum forming.
What brand of powertools should I go with? My dad bought a Makita cordles drill (DDF482Z) without any batteries or charger a few months ago when I said we might need one in a few months (he has no knowledge of battery power tools and just bought what the store clerk told him to). I now need a cordless drill / screwdriver and buying a battery and charger on top would total at almost 300€.
A good friend of mine uses Einhell tools and told me that they're the best bang/buck you could get here in Germany, I've used his tools a few times before at work and I like them. Buying an Einhell drill with two batteries and chargers would cost less than going with Makita and I'll need a lot of power tools down the line anyways for my hobbies and light work (nothing seriously professional, I fix the rooms at work sometimes).
So what the frick do I do? Do I put up the Makita for sale on eBay Kleinanzeigen and buy Einhell? Do I bite the bullet and go with Makita for some reason that I don't know yet and will propably be told here? Any help?
I want to make my own silicone cookware, both utensils and baking pans. I can make the molds easily enough, but I'm uncertain about the actual silicone material and the temperatures they can withstand.
Does anyone know how to determine the temperature that silicone can withstand? I'm seeing different ratings that vary wildly between 200C-250C, but optimally I'd like something that can withstand up to 300C without any issue.
> vary wildly between 200 and 250c
That’s about as precise as it gets
> I'd like something that can withstand up to 300C without any issue
Mold max 60 is crazy expensive but ‘rated’ at… 294C. Siloxane itself only resists up to ≈300C so I don’t think anyone really makes a polymer from it that can stand much higher temperatures for a long time.
I like Einhells corded stuff like cheap mitre saw but for battery operated I’d really go with Makita. The initial kit with batteries in expensive but after that you can buy other tools without batteries included which are pretty good value for money (track saw / angle grinder / jigsaw etc).
They're like $3/PC
Why would you dick with making them????
Your kids will benefit from hearing you frick her. Families all slept in the same room for centuries
> Why would you dick with making them????
I dunno. I think it would be fun? I want to make my own custom molds for baking, making chocolates, and maybe some soap molds. I figure If I have any extra left over I could just make some cookware.
Can I wire up my ceiling fan to an extension cord and plug it into an outlet? I took it down replace the receiver but I want to test the new one before I put it back because it is a pain to put back up.
Yes. you will need a section of cord, either with a male end that you can plug into an outlet, or otherwise you could just twist up and plug the cut ends of a section of cord into the outlet.
Connect the wires just like you would in the ceiling; black to black, green to green, white to white (or if there's a bare copper wire in the fan, it's for the green ground wire)
I got probably got a broken appliance around here that can donate it male cord.Thank you.
I am building a non-structural frame for a few things around the basement. Would a nail gun still be better than using screws for this? For a DIYer, would any pneumatic nail gun suffice or should I get a higher quality brand?
>Would a nail gun still be better than using screws for this?
Faster and cheaper, but not better structurally, in my opinion. And I bought the Harbor Freight cheapo framing gun and had no problems with it on a medium sized job, and it still works years later on the rare occasion when I use it.
Right, it's a small frame on a short platform of concrete. I won't skimp out on the hammer drill, but not sure if I want to nail them in or just drill them in. I will probably just drill it all in.
those heaters usually have very low power, might be too low to shower comfortably
depending on your country might be OK-ish
smallest electric showers in UK start with 7.5kW and they are barely usable, flow is very restricted
if your heater has 10kw it might be working just about good enough if you don't crank flow valve open all way
/biz/neet here
i would like to cover my whole southern roof in solar panels, and use excess energy to mine bitcoin in my attic. i can then use any heat produced in the winter for my house. i just dont know how to set up the system so that the individual miners are powered on based on how much excess energy is being produced, and how to only pump the heat into the furnace air return based on inside temp vs thermostat. who do i need to talk to, and how much can i do myself? im a firmware engineer so i can do a decent bit of any programming needed
You'd save more money running a heatpump, even with an asic miner, than mining bitcoin for resistive heating at current prices.
the heat is a secondary goal, i primarily want to mine for passive income, i dont really care about current prices
>i dont really care about current prices
spoken like a bitcoin miner
>use excess energy to mine bitcoin in my attic.
Let’s just load up the hottest part of the house with electronics that need cooling. Sounds like a great plan you got there.
yall gotta stop letting people design their roofs using auto build on the sims
What is the best way to soundproof a single room?
I have a large penis and I want to frick my wife senseless without also traumatising our children.
The walls are brick, so I assume that's as good as it gets in that regard.
Would replacing the standard hollow interior door with a solid wood one and putting weather sealing around it make much difference?
Line the walls and door with acoustic foam panels.
I'd consider it if there is no other option, but I don't want my bedroom to look like a recording studio or make it obvious to visitors that I'm trying to muffle the sound of me railing my wife.
Changing the door and adding weatherstripping isn't going to stop sound.You have to absorb sound. There's a reason recording studios use acoustic tiles and not weatherstripped wooden doors but try it. Can't hurt unless you got central heat/cooling and no return air ducting from that room.
Counter idea; ball gag with a sock behind it.
>There's a reason recording studios use acoustic tiles and not weatherstripped wooden doors
Isn't that more about preventing sound reflection within the room rather than just preventing it from being heard outside?
The tiles are to stop sound propagation. Inside, outside, doesn't matter.
What style of house has brick interior walls?
>What style of house has brick interior walls?
An Australian one, it's pretty standard here.
Nice. Maybe you can get by with tiles on the door, another 12" or so of insulation in the attic over your bedroom and possible some in the floor joists under the bedroom.
>another 12" or so of insulation in the attic over your bedroom and possible some in the floor joists under the bedroom
Our houses must really be different than what you're used to, there are no floor joists, the floor is just a concrete slab.
I feel like our houses are a lot more solid, I hope that means they're able to be better soundproofed too.
> The tiles are to stop sound propagation. Inside, outside, doesn't matter.
The tiles are to transfer sound into the wall well damped instead of reflecting it. You can hear studio sound on the outside pretty well, but mostly lower frequencies
Big fluffy curtains and a wall rug work pretty well and are less obvious. If you don’t care about effort or cost you can make the wall thicker with a wood frame, isolation wool and drywall
>Would replacing the standard hollow interior door with a solid wood one and putting weather sealing around it make much difference?
Significantly. Make sure to block the gap under the door too.
They have incredible hearing, wake up constantly, and you sound proofing your room means you can’t hear them crying, so they come and bang on the locked door, which you then have to answer covered in frick.
Lawnmower throttle problem:
When I turn on my riding lawnmower, it starts up perfectly. However, when I try to increase the speed with the throttle lever, the engine sputters and dies. It's not the lever itself, I've checked that it and the wire it's attached to still works everything mechanically.
What can I do to diagnose some common issues with this sort of thing?
Clogged main jet. Clean the carb. To avoid the problem in the future add a fuel shutoff and use it to turn off the engine.
>What can I do to diagnose some common issues with this sort of thing?
Learn how they work. Not shitposting or insulting, if you want to diagnose, you have to know how it works. And, learn how to diagnose. My dad was an engineer and started teaching me really early how to diagnose problems. Is it electrical? Is it fuel?
Tear the carb down. Learn how it works. Then you can start to diagnose, and get a feel for how things might break/clog up. Go get a rebuild kit, and the shop manual for the mower. Dig in.
And, if you don't know how a carb works, to begin with - start there. Learn the fundamentals. Over time, you'll get to a point like us where we can say "clogged carb" from just a text post.
This is a follow up to last thread. Thanks anon for info on electric impact wrench. I took it apart and somehow the previous owner manager to get the beans above the frank.
Put it in my press, and the bearings popped right back into place. Now works great
And so this weeks question for diy, is can I cover my unsoldering iron with like high temp silicone? I was pulling some through hole ICs from a board last night, and kept burning my fingers on the bulb tube. I clocked the top tube at 500 degrees F, the shaft at only 150F, and oddly the tip at 100F
You could but shielding the tube (like the shaft is) would be a lot more effective.
I bought this crimping tool from my local hardware store a few months ago and just realized, that it is a generic chinese POS
> https://www.conrad.de/de/p/toolcraft-1486699-crimpzange-1-stueck-unisolierte-offene-steckverbinder-0-5-bis-6-mm-1486699.html
That's actually great because that means I can find the fitting jaws easily on amazon. Or so I thought. I can't. Any help? I need them for small ass JST and dupont connector leads, but the one I currently have just crushes those connectors. I can find jaws for other connectors or crimp tools with the right jaws, but never just the right jaws, what should I be searching for? This is one such tool with the right jaws: https://www.amazon.de/dp/B08352QC4L/
Should be available on Amazon Germany btw.
I have tried literally almost every crimping tool and jaws for JST XH (and DuPont to a lesser extent) and found that only the PA-09 I had on my previous job did it properly 9 out of 10 times. Most if not all SN-28B clones aren’t manufactured well enough to give you a nice result. So it may be cheaper to skip the jaws and just get a PA-09 clone instead.
I know the Engineer PA-09, but the original is so fricking expensive, 50€, frick. And I can't find any clones right now, not even on AliExpress or similar. I mean I appreciate precision tools, but I'm a mere student earning 450€ / month and my car insurance is coming up in a few days ... FML.
Some white flakey shit keeps falling out from the top of the door frame in my building. Is that asbestos?
how old is your door frame and/or building? its probably not absestos, rather just stucco or some crap. could possibly have leaded paint if its old enough
Probably insulation
i need a better system for storing my drill bits and diff sized screws that is still free or cheap. i have access to acre of dumpster dived crap
I got a bucket full of these I carry screws and nails in. Cheap, simple, fast, easy.
What's the best way to install a door in this kind of scenario? I just bought my first home and it has a swanky theater room in the basement and I'd like to add a door for extra light and sound control, but wall situation makes this seem like a ton more of a pain than all the noobie stuff I am finding on google about how to hang a door properly.
What is your criteria for best?
I am very much a DIYlet, if there's no single clear best way here, then my ideal solution is reasonably possible for a total notice to do it while also not looking like shit.
Option 1, build a 2x4 wall stubbing out on the right side to square up the doorway to the left side.
Pros: right angles makes it look more proper.
Cons: lots more work, cost, and time.
Option 2, put the door at whatever angle the walls would make when connected.
Pros: simple, quick, easy.
Cons: may not look right.
Your call.
I tried reheat hard boil eggs in a microwave and it blew up so hard the door was forced open.(Apparently poking a hole on the eggs are not enough.)
Anyway I managed to clean most of it but some egg yolk are sticked to the tubes on top.
Any suggestion to clean them without full disassembly?
Fitting a double din headunit in a car, what would be the best way to cut away some surrounding plastic? Dremel or pic related?
Oscillating tool because you can plunge cut with it.
A little leg bit broke off the filter cover on my window AC unit, I tried glueing it back on with gorilla glue but it just snapped off at the joint when I put it back on.
What's the best kind of glue to use on that plastic, and are there any ways I can reinforce it? Like, would there be an easy enough way to use solder to fix it? I'm just blue-skying here.
Pic would help. I'll cut out pieces of plastic from pop bottles that glue to the side of the broken part bridging the break works well. One on both sides and it is better than it was. Super glue or two part epoxy.
Smoke balls.
Depends on what kind of plastic it is. I've repaired things like microwave doors with this stuff, and it's held for years. Most likely you'll have to heat weld it back on, with some scavanged plastic from somewhere non-critical on the frame for bulking it up. You can do that with a soldering iron.
Any simple ways and cheap of comparing ventilation of something like a box with holes
Need to prove a guy wrong
I can think of complex ways that involve releasing a chemical gas and it's respective meter then comparing results that way.
I suppose I could just see how long it takes to dry out. If I spray something with water.
I need help. The D5 pumpkin my pc loop started grinding. Took it apart and it looks like the graphic black plastic bit wore out, while the white ceramic bearing ball is still fine. I can buy a replacement impeller on Ali but it’s like $25 after shipping.
I feel that I can diy the impeller surface bretty easily. If I put a single swatch of paper towel the impeller sits at the correct height and doesn’t grind.
I’m thinking maybe a drop of super glue or jb weld or kapton or?
I'm allergic to dust, it's something that's been bothering me my whole life. I get bad skin rashes, can't breathe properly etc.
I suddenly had an epiphany yesterday that the solution to my problem could be in the field of HVAC.
So I downloaded this book about HVAC and it's 2000 pages long and I think it would take me months or years to get through that.
Does anyone know here know a way to get rid of dust and irritants in the air? Should I buy an air conditioning unit?
>Does anyone know here know a way to get rid of dust and irritants in the air?
Air purifiers. They use electrostatic electricity to capture dust and stuff.
I actually have an air purifier in my bedroom but it doesn't do much. It always shows me that the air quality is good but it clearly isn't.
Maybe you have a shit one or it’s undersized? Or perhaps it’s not placed in an effective spot of the room. Do you ever empty it? Alternatively you can reduce dust by not having stuff in which contributes to dust and actively washing your bed sheets more often. Put on a dust mask and wipe up dust more often.
Have you spoken to an actual doctor? You need to get tested by an allergist, and have them specifically find out what you're allergic to - and then recommend meds. With luck it will be over the counter.
What you're autistically doing is downloading a book on how to build skyscrapers to build one to block out the sun, when all you need is some grocery store sun block.
I need to drill a hole in a piece of HSS for something I'm making. No prizes for guessing what the problem is...
I've tried a bit coated in titanium nitride, a cobalt bit, and a masonry bit with a carbide insert and only the masonry bit made even the slightest mark on it. The rest just deflect if I put any pressure on them (using a drill press). Using smallish bits as well (2-3mm, masonry bit was 4mm) and going as fast as my drill press will go, though that's not particularly fast, its only a 180W one.
Will getting a better motor/more powerful drill press help at all? Are there any other types of drill bit worth trying? Annealing the part is a no-go, it has a ground surface that needs to act as a bearing race, plus I don't have a heat-treating oven to re-harden it (though it would just corrode to the point of being unusable anyway)
Did you use coolant when drilling? If you don’t use coolant the heat hardens the stainless and ruins your drill bit. Always use lots of coolant and back off the drill every now and then when drilling stainless. Also Going slower is better.
My advice, sharpen your bits and retry with lots of coolant.
>stainless
I'm not drilling into stainless, I'm drilling into high speed steel. I'm using a bit of oil to help keep it cool but at best the bits leave a small mark on the surface, and doesn't remove any materiel. Plus the drill bits are all brand new, so they should be sharp as frick.
Carbide is what machinists use but your faux drill press is also a problem. See a real machinist. Sometimes one must. BTW machining is more fun than firearms.
>but your faux drill press is also a problem
Yeah, its pretty shit but at least the holes it drills are somewhat straight. The motor is total shit though, I swear my battery drill is stronger.
Going to a proper machinist would cost far more than the part is worth, I'm trying to make a bearing race for some cheap roller rockers from china, as they were full of swarf when I got them and taking the original races out damaged them. I'd buy a new one but its in a size thats a pain to find, plus it needs to be hollow.
Then electric arc machining, but not really something you can DIY easily.
Get a solid carbide bit or end mill which is what machinists use. Better yet take it to a machine shop unless of course it's a gun in which case outfit your home machine shop properly.
I need moving boxes. What's the best place to buy them from that will deliver them?
How do I know how many boxes to buy?
Is this going to be costly?
If you're friends with anyone who has a job that involves unpacking stuff, ask them if you can snag boxes they receive stuff in. I'm friends with my LGS owner and he gave me more boxes than I knew what to do with when I was moving out of my parent's house.
Good ideas, thanks. I don't have a car because I'm a citygay. But I think I'd be able to use one from work to stop at a few places and ask for boxes. Apparently liquor stores are a good spot to check.
Moving boxes are stupidly expensive. Delivered? You're moving, pussy. Get in your car and drive around and check prices. Go to Staples and any place that sells paper, and ask if they're throwing out paper boxes. Go to a storage locker place or UHaul and check their prices. Call moving companies and ask if they have any they're throwing out.
I did this at my job the last time I moved, and asked the IT guys to save paper boxes for me, and I got like 20 of them, free. (That company had tons of boomers who print out shit like email.)
I got these whole house surge protectors but don’t want to use them at the box for reasons.
I have a modem that keeps getting fried, and there isn’t room for a power strip. I think it has to do with static in the attic since they blew in new nsulatuon.
Do both live wires on the surge protector need to be engaged to L1 and l2? I read that some of these measure the difference in voltage to stop the spike.
Can I just attach as shown in picture? Would placement two give me more protection?
I’d like to use placement 1 or 2, but understand 3 is recommended
Did fixing the circuit in the attic never occur to you?
oh, wait, this is /DIY where overthinking simple fixes and not using things in the way they're intended is king. My bad
This is DIY, not “become a skilled electrician and troubleshoot a complicated problem buried under 3 feet of fiberglass in the summer where the attic is over 120 degrees”.
When they were blowing in the fiberglass, it created a massive charge and fried the modem-my other gear was all surge protected, and did fine. So while I wait for an expert to troubleshoot this problem, I’m trying to diy a solution. I was going to take apart a standard surge protector , and wire it inline with the socket in the cubby. But then I got a few of these square-d guys for free, and assumed that would be better than the power strip one.
So how do you recommend troubleshooting the issue in the attic?
Was under the impression they blew like a fuse, is that not correct?
That is really interesting about the #3, since it was my impression that damage went out through the ethernet ( another device had its ethernet port fry ).
I’ve seen the surge suppressors for telco lines on APC, but people said they were gimmicky. Is picrel the type of surge suppressor I should be looking for assuming it was cable? I’m on a Vdsl line.
There -is- something fricked up in the attic, but I’ve had three electricians turn down the job so far. One said we were entirely missing a ground - so I had a bar installed. I have no idea how that wasn’t caught during the inspection when we bought the house.
I hoped that addressed things, but last week I flipped some fuses to add a socket, and when I turned them back on, the modem fried, and one fuse won’t turn back on. Not the fuse I was working on either, so i don’t think it’s related to the outlet I added.
One electrician told me to replace the whole box, that some of the fuses might be tripping just because they are old. So.. yeah.
How do i check the ground on the vdsl?
You don't need to be a skilled electrician, you god damned spastic.
>So how do you recommend troubleshooting the issue in the attic?
By tracing the fricking wires, you actual moron.
I have to believe you're larping now, because you're too fricking stupid to own a home.
You clearly don’t understand the problem, and your suggestion shows it.
A few things;
1) Whole house surge suppressors are a scam.
2) Any surge suppressor that doesn't have the ability to break the circuit in an over current scenario can not protect a device.
3) Your modem is probably getting fried from the incoming phone or cable line, not your power. It most likely uses an ac-dc switching psu which isolates it from main transients. If the surge is on the mains only thing that would get fried would be the adapter.
I'd suggest you check the ground on your incoming signal wire first and see if that's your problem. There's also special surge suppressors for both coax or telco lines.
Attaching a whole house suppressor at any of those point will not help your issue.
Is it wrong to solder thicker wire into smaller wire? for example 18AWG to 22AWG?
By itself, no.
As long as both wires are rated for the current that will flow through them it’s fine, it just would look a little stupid.
the hot water handle on my bathroom sink is acting up. It seems like it isn't secured properly to the surface, as in it will turn about 120 degrees in total, is more difficult than normal to turn on, and very difficult to turn off such that it is pointing almost 90 degrees out of position when it's fully off.
I've uninstalled it for the moment, and it doesn't seem to want to turn the whole way without water running through it. Is that pretty normal? I've noticed the cold handle, which has never been a problem, doesn't like to turn the whole way with the water off either.
So do I just need to secure the hot handle properly and run some water through to get it all going properly?
Similar to pic related but styled differently.
They should turn without water unless they've been dry for a long time. I'd guess you need a new cartage for it.
How do I get to the cartridge in this thing?
take a pic of the top handle.
If you mean the top of the whole assembly in the pic, it's just all smooth metal. If you mean something else by top handle I don't know what you mean.
The faucet itself Is also just one smooth metal piece, I've never even managed to get the aerator out.
Well, I hooked it up to the water again just to see, without securing it to the counter and it works just fine, albeit a little resistance on turning it off fully. I don't think that'll be a big issue when it's clamped in place.
If anything can tell me how I could get into this thing to properly get whatever's in there out, I'd love to hear it. Maybe I should just run some white vinegar through it?
The handle has to come off somehow. Some have caps the pop off the top hiding a screw, others have set screws located under the lever, some just push/pull off.
Vinegar probably won't help but you can try it. Won't hurt the seals. I'm guessing the seals in the cartridge need lubed.
We had pretty hard water for years, including a malfunctioning softener putting resin media into the water. Can't say for sure how long the handle has been there but maybe 10-15 years.
Here's a picture of the cold handle which works fine. There are no visible screws or anything so maybe it was just poorly made and there actually is no way to get to the handle off. I've tried pulling, I've tried getting a flathead (not a very small one, though) into the seam between the base and the handle. If it unscrews, there's some trick to it.
That looks like one that unscrews at the bottom. Here's a video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j5UlC7WmsyE
If that's how it works, it's REALLY stuck on there. So that's probably how it works. It's tomorrow's problem now though, I'll give it a shot when I've got it off the water supply again.
Found the mfr mark and looked up the manual, that is indeed how it is supposed to work but as I said, it's really stuck on there. Reinstalled, it moves okay but there's an "air gap" between the clamping ring on the top side of the counter and the bit of the handle that actually turns. Is that air gap going to cause issues? Like, water is going to get in there, is it going to frick up the works?
I am a europoor who bought a portable AC. The installation was easy but i realized that it creates negative pressure in the room which sucks hot air from other rooms. How to deal with this? Installing a second hose for intake might cause the unit to overheat and I don't want to start a fire.
Also I can't buy a proper split AC because I am a poor frick in a rented apartment.
Return it, get a proper AC. Those portable AC units are garbage anyways.
so there is no way around a split unit eh?
>Installing a second hose for intake might cause the unit to overheat
Explain how giving fresh air to the unit would cause it to overheat?
Also, why not get a portable AC that just has two tubes? One for intake one for exhaust?
>Explain how giving fresh air to the unit would cause it to overheat?
it is designed to absorb cold air from the room that it creates on itself. which means absorbing hot air from the outside could make it overheat.
>Also, why not get a portable AC that just has two tubes? One for intake one for exhaust?
they don't sell them in eupoor, even the ones that cost 1000EUR+ are still single pipe. i hate this country so much.
Professional aircons are only supplied to certified installers in many European countries because of the toxic high pressure ozone depleting refrigerant.
But does it say what you cannot use an intake hose? Because with that reasoning it would also overheat by itself in a very warm room it can’t cool. There should be a protection. Also can’t you just put a regular fan next to it that draws outside air to compensate
>Professional aircons are only supplied to certified installers in many European countries because of the toxic high pressure ozone depleting refrigerant.
it is the "Papier Bitte!" sort of regulations that make me hate this place. can't wait to move to the USA in couple of years.
>But does it say what you cannot use an intake hose?
it really doesn't but I don't want to risk it. right now, it doesn't cool the room but I use it to cool myself directly by pointing it at me.
>Also can’t you just put a regular fan next to it that draws outside air to compensate
what do you mean by this?
My water heater is from 2003, forming rust bubbles in picrel, moved in last year don't know when or if ever has been drained. Should I leave it alone or should I flush it?
Nix this, im probably not gonna frick with it. But what's the consensus on shark bite? My brother in law said he replaced his water heater, virtually no plumbing experience and said it was very simple. No leaks while he lived in that house but he was only there a year after the fact. Probably about as handy as I.
My personal opinion on shark bites is that they never go behind a wall, only where I can periodically check them.
A warning. if you haven't drained or shut your intake for the tank in half a decade +, prepare for things to possibly seize or leak, if you want to be super safe just close the main and then drain the tank instead if the tank shutoff.
T. Guy who had both the tank shutoff ajd the drain turn to mush at the same time on a sunday night.
Water heater is trash, replace it.
Sharkbite on a water heater is fine, considering that the connections are always visible, and the water heater needs to be replaced (on average) every 10-15 years anyways. Buy pic related to make your life easier, so you don't have to worry about lining up the new heater perfectly.
I used a plex to copper sharkbite to get my new top end installex, just enough flex in the plex for it. But if I was going to copper to copper, definately flex. Also went with a high quality ball valve like your pic over the garbage stem valve my tank came with.
Whatever you do, don't plug or cap the relief valve.
Trying to do a very budget remodel on a house because I'm unsure of what to do with it in the future. I'll tear it down to build on the property, or use it as a rental property. The walls are paneling, and in a few areas the walls are pulling off of the studs and bowing/flexing. Can I just go around with a brad nailer and nail them back to the studs, or would that not work well?
Brad nails aren't great at holding paneling. They'll pull out. You need something with a head like paneling nails.
I am trying to build a table using a tree stump for the base. As you can see, i have quite a ways to go. I need advice on how i should go about flattening the top of it.
This is just an idea, but you could screw two 2x4s on either side horizontally at the top of the stump. get the 2x4s nice and level and then run a chain saw over the top of the 2x4s to flatten out the stump.
Does that make sense? It's simple enough in my head but kinda hard to explain clearly.
I could try that. Here is an actual picture since I fricked up the first two
Nice linga. Next build a yoni to go with it.
I just wanted to drop this here, this anon was kind enough to give me a detailed answer and I didn't notice until the thread was ded. Thank you wherever you are, kind anon.
Hello, I want to make a bunch of flags like these lawn markers, but much taller. Maybe up to 8 ft tall even... I will be attaching plastic or fabric flags to them. What can I buy to construct these flags? I was thinking of a material similar to wire clothes hangers, or maybe some kind of strong electrical cable that I could remove the shielding from... It just needs to be rigid enough that it will stay standing up in moderate wind with some flags attached.
I asked in /metallurgy/ as well, but no response...
Regular wire wouldn't be able to support its own weight at 8ft long and besides, wire that long comes in spools and you'd never be able to straighten it.
I recommend PVC or PEX piping, rebar, or a long wooden dowel that's about 1/2" diameter.
He could bundles them together into a homosexual
That would be a pretty big homosexual.
Thanks. I did get a respone in /metalurgy/, I might go with wooden dowels anchored to the ground with a metal pipe.
And to clarify on 'flag', I just mean little plastic markers like pic above, about 6 inches or so, not full size flags
I'm thinking rebar will being strongest cheapest solution. Maybe you can get by with 1/2" pvc pipe.
Can an oven have two pilot lights, like one for the regular oven and one for the broiler?
Asking for a friend who is afraid of exploding.
Why would an oven have even one pilot light?
Yeah, it's ancient, tiny, and falling apart. Still better than cooking on electric!
Convection.
How old is this oven? They've not had pilot lights for decades and when you get that old they didn't have fixed broilers. It was stored in the draw below the oven. That's a rare beast.
Wait nevermind I found it! It's the same pilot light as the rest of the oven. I still wonder if it's different on different stoves, though...
I want to set up a simple lock system that unlocks when a card with an rfid chip is detected by the rfid reader.
the rfid reader, in this case, knows the ID number of the card in order to send a signal to the unlock switch.
however, I need to ensure that this number or range of ID numbers is encrypted so that if someone takes apart the rfid reader, they don't know what numbers it responds to.
is it possible to do this and how would I do it?
I am a complete novice
to summarise, the list of 'keys' the rfid reader responds to needs to be encrypted
an example situation: I have an ID card, I put it near the reader, the reader accepts it as my number matches the criteria and unlocks the door. but if someone hacks the reader, the criteria is encrypted so they won't know what numbers are accepted
There's tons of commercial solutions for this but the basics are that the reader which is located on the insecure side is just a dumb reader that tells a controller located on the secure side whatever it reads and the controller then determines if the door unlocks or not.
so where is the data stored? in the controller? does the controller do all the encryption?
Yes and yes. The reader reads, the locker locks, the controller controls.
thank you for the easy explanation 🙂
is there a kit or something similar that I can make myself? idk what to type in google for this
Why you so intent on making your own? There's literally thousands of these system being made. This is like asking how to machine a door lock. If you're trying to save money this is not the way. If you want to learn I'd probably have you start learning how to code on ardunos.
I mean I'm not making an actual door lock, but a lock for a box. I don't really know what to search since I don't want those expensive keycard locks but something quite small.
>arduino
oh okay
RFID for a box is not ideal. Box locks are normally battery powered and RFID locks have to always be on radiation power for the RFID chips. You'd be better off with a keypad lock. That's why they're so prevalent on gun safes and tool boxs.
I see, thank you for the advice
The comcast guy went straight from the cable drop on the utility pole and punched through the closest wall into the house instead of running it to the demarcation box.
What's the preferred/professional method for running ~40 feet of coax along a house? I'm thinking of just using the hole he's already made in the house and instead of going all the way through like he did I fish the cable up into the attic and over to the box/desired room.
There's also aluminum soffit that I guess it could be run in/along/under.
Underground pvc conduits are probably off the table because that side of the house has large concrete pavers the whole distance.
How do I clean walls? Is it ok if I just dust it and then use one of those eraser sponge things to remove marks?
does this kind of pump bidirectional?
No, that's another centrifugal impeller pump. You can tell because the inlet is in the center. Look for a pump with input and output on opposite sizes like pic related.
Super moronic question. How can I figure out how much energy/how much it costs to run my washing machine? The price of living and energy has skyrocketed and I'm wondering how much of an impact it has. The machine is under a counter and plugged in down there, so a monitor in the plug socket isn't really possible. A tabloid newspaper puts the cost at 57 pounds if used for an hour every other day which is much lower than I expected. I thought washing machines were power hungry.
https://www.thesun.co.uk/money/16159343/washing-machine-cost/
You can look up the model #. It should have running watts. If you want to measure it yourself then you'll have to pull it out and plug in a monitor or buy a clamp meter and play around in the main panel.
What’s a ‘6 litre washing machine’? Isn’t laundry measured in kg? Sounds tiny either way. Rule of thumb is 2500W in Europe (soo 2500kWh/h) and €0.20 per cycle at 40C
I hope this is a good place to ask: I'm looking for a book on traditional gilding techniques in either English, German, French, Spanish, or Portuguese. This is a gift and I have no clue about the topic at all. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated!
Don't think I've ever seen a book on gilding. It's not a complex subject that would warrant it.
Someone bought you a glider?
My dryer is dying, everything seems fine except for the door switch, I have been able to play with it and get it to star. They're $30 to replace, apparently you can just jumper them, image related. Long term, is that safe? Will that wire get hot? Thanks anon.
This is the part, I was just going to cut the sensor off and connect the two wires and wrap it up in tape. https://www.partselect.com/PS11741701-Whirlpool-WP3406107-Dryer-Door-Switch.htm?SourceCode=15
Use 14ga and the wire won't get hot. Long term the only safety issue is the dryer not shutting off when you open it. More annoying than anything. Those switches are everywhere. Watch craigslist or marketplace for a broken dryer curb alert and grab a replacement switch off it. Don't worry about brand as long as the switch is the same size.
That's normal. Aluminum is a gummy metal which is why it's a pain to drill or machine. chips clog up the flutes, everything get hot and starts sticking.
thanks
>Long term the only safety issue is the dryer not shutting off
Oh and the light won't come on. Another annoyance.
My dryer has a light? I guess it's been fricked up for a while and I just didn't realize. Thank you guys. I looked up the part on Ebay randomly and it was about $5 shipped, I might just not wash cloths for a week and get one.
Thanks boys.
I was using pic related to drill into aluminum in a tight spot
it would always get bound up but it seemed like it would cut going in reverse after, so the process was turn right -> gets stuck -> reverse -> repeat
Used plenty of cutting oil and applied as much pressure as I could, power settings didnt change much
is it normal to have something like this bog down on aluminum? the cuts ended up fine for what i was doing and i didnt have a lot of space to apply much pressure
Any B&S experts around? Trying to find the carb for this mower. This is all the data plates I could find.
carb rebuild kit or carb
Their website is excellent and you can download manuals. There are millions of that family of engines and ample aftermarket carbs cheaper than a Briggs overhaul kit for their stock Walbros (but save old carb for comparison before installation).
shows how to find number. Download manual per that. View the (likely two different) carbs shown then choose a replacement style matching yours.
Taryl has to play the redneck role for views but is a skilled mechanic who treats this old equipment as designed (shit ain't aircraft parts) and gets it running.
I have three mowers with larger Intek style old Briggs and use Amazon "Carbhub" carbs with no problems.
Also useful:
it was covered in dirt so I couldn't even tell it was there
thanks
I fricked up, PrepHole. My house has a tiny closet I stuffed my washing machine in. I closed the door, went away for a couple of weeks, any by the time I was back the plywood was all covered in mold. Turns out my washing machine was leaky, and with no air circulation, shit happened.
I cleaned everything up over the afternoon with white vinegar and lemon juice, and it worked. The walls are clean as new save for some subtle discoloured spots I couldn't scrub off. Anything else I should do? Anything I can do for the smell?
Killz or bin shellac or any paint for fire/smoke damage will seal the materials and prevent scents. Use an ozone generator (rental) first though to neutralize the scent more or boatloads of carbon
Thanks, my dude.
What's the best source for impact-rated security torx bits, at least 1"? My shitty pot metal Amazon ones get stripped out or bend easily. I keep good track of my shit, not worried about losing it so I can spend a bit.
>impact rated security torx
not gonna happen, security torx bits are weak due to the hollow center
Okay then how about a 1/4" hex shank with quick release security torx bit that I can put in my 12V little impact driver that will never ever come close to snapping it
>1/4" hex shank with quick release security torx
You can find those at hardware stores if you look around, I bought some not long ago.
>that I can put in my 12V little impact driver that will never ever come close to snapping it
My experience is that these security bits are softer steel than standard torx driver bits, so while your 12v impact won't snap them it will probably be capable of mushing the head apart. Could try to heat treat the tip with a torch if you're feeling adventurous I guess (and then it might actually snap too).
>door pulled out of its screws. What are my options?
You need no additional tools. Ram a pencil in the stripped out holes, snap it off, repeat for each hole, send the screws back in. You can whittle a piece of wood off a scrap 2x4 or any branch from your backyard if pencils don't fit.
>I literally canceled a date ar my house because it's my only bathroom
Don't be a puss, hang a curtain over the door if you have to, chicks dig ingenuity and nonchalantness more than your winging about.
Success, it holds! Shaved off tiny pieces of a cherry tree branch and shoved them in. Used same width but ever so slightly longer screws. Thanks for the advice.
how do I pick a solar charge controller for my panels. If I have two 400wp panels can I use it with a charge controller that is only rated for 300W or will the extra power mess up the system?
Searching for charge controllers on amazon seems really shitty none can provide accurate technical description of their product...
>two 400wp panels
>can I use it with a charge controller that is only rated for 300W
No, get a charge controller rated for more than you need. They're reasonably inexpensive and this way you have room to upgrade later. 960 watts @ 12v is 80 amps so you want at least an 80a MPPT charge controller.
This one should work fine:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/275167529698?hash=item4011434ae2
And you're right, I just checked, searching for charge controllers on Amazon yields 100% pozzed results now. Trying to trick you into buying some $500 charge controller or some shitty 40a Renogy kit. Too bad. They used to be good for search refinement but now that's gone.
the panels I bought supposedly have 40V 11A max so I assume I should search for a charge controller that supports at least 40V 30A right? I plan to connect the panels in parallel to the charge controller so I assume simply adding current is the right way right?
40v @ 11a = 440w x2 = 880w
The charge controller should be smart enough to handle the voltage and send it to your battery.
If the panels are both the same wattage then just connect them together and run two leads to the charge controller.
My bathroom door pulled out of its screws. What are my options? I literally canceled a date ar my house because it's my only bathroom
halp
mini-ac? You mean like... a window ac? minisplit?
It could be the driver or connector and not the strip. I'd disassemble first and test to make sure the part ordered is correct. Also chances are the dead strip can be fixed by changing one led if you're into that.
pressure washer, sand blaster, wire wheels, etc What you can use depends on the 'coating' on the pot.
Was the bad one the first one you painted? My guess is you didn't stir the paint well enough. To get it off use whatever solvent the paint is based on (acetone nuclear option). Should wipe right off.
>a window ac? minisplit?
both are too big, loud and expensive. I was thinking more along the lines of mini fridge, but it cools the room instead of food. hell, would keeping it open make it work like an ac minus the condensed water part?
Fridges only move heat from inside to outside. I’m seeing 7000btu portable mini fridge sized (30x30x70) aircons with hose for €229 and don’t think there would be a better solution for that price
Thanks, will try. And yea its acrylic paint and it was the first panel. Will try to remove with solvent tomorrow.
>>It could be the driver or connector and not the strip. I'd disassemble first and test to make sure the part ordered is correct. Also chances are the dead strip can be fixed by changing one led if you're into that.
Sadly i down own a hot air station, and a strip is $8.
>pencil snap
I will try and post results when I do
Hello all, could do with some help. 1st time wood worker here. I'm looking to Kerf cut some wood I have. The wood is 100mmx100mmX2.4m. i need it to be 90.
Ill look to be using a tapered bit, 1/16th (n end) X 1/4 (w end) 1" long
Can anyone help (btw i am shidd at math)
You didn’t specify a radius, I’m going to assume 200mm outer, so 100mm inner.
Total length of inside of bend is (1/4)*pi*2r = 157mm
Total length of outside is 314mm, same equation. Difference is 157mm which is the combined length of your kerfs at inside face. So you cut kerfs with a combined length of 157mm evenly divided over 314mm of beam.
Not sure how you’re going to cut them with the 1”l long tapered bit in 4” wood (they should be like 3” deep at least) so can’t help any further than that.
I want to fix my sister TV, it seems that one of the backlight strips failed since the top and middle part have proper illumination.
So before i start tell me if i got something wrong by watching videos about how to do it.
I need to:
>Buy a backlight strip
>Disassemble and remove the old backlight strip
>Add thermal paste under the leds of the new backlight strip, if there are any missing screw holes drill new ones to make sure the strip never bends
Is there any power tool that could make cleaning easier? Shit like baked-on grease on dishes, etc.
I know that elbow grease Just Werks (TM) - and it's certainly worked well enough for me - but it's a question my mother asked me and I'd like to help her if possible.
>power tool that could make cleaning easier? Shit like baked-on grease on dishes
Have you tried a dishwasher?
Was it oil based paint? If you apply oil base too thick it will literally never dry. Remove with turpentine/paint thinner. If it's acrylic then try water first. Lacquer thinner is the nuclear option.
>...../ )
>.....' /
>---' (_____
>......... ((__)
>..... _ ((___)
>....... -'((__)
>--.___((_)
dishwasher does nothing for baked-on grease
hmm, sounds more nuclear than what I had in mind
all of those require some strength to use anyway
but which power tool doesn't?
maybe I was looking for a unicorn
Pressure washer would be the lowest strength, fastest and safest option. Easiest could be putting the pot in an oven then setting the oven to clean. If the pot survives the clean cycle whatever is on it should be ash.
>safest
I can already see a moron putting it on highest pressure, holding the pot with his naked hand and getting fricked up.
I painted 2 MDF boards the other day. Sanded 180, apply MDF primer, wait to dry, sand lightly 240, apply solvent based paint. One of them turned out perfectly, but on the other one the paint still hasn’t dried after 5 days. It’s not liquid or shiny, it’s more sticky like tar and it comes off if I rub it with my finger.
Anyone know how this can happen? Same paint, same material. Also is the bad one still salvageble? Any way I can remove half-dry sticky paint? Paper towels don’t work, they just stick to the paint and break
Has anyone here done any self study on programmable logic controllers to get into an industrial electrician/technician role? Any online resources you can share?
Yes me. Download free codesys and Google/YT for tutorials. Or buy a $15 Udemy course and pirate Logix Studio or TIA portal. Also contactandcoil dot com.
You won’t be able to show experience on your resume but if you build an emulated machine with well designed HMI you’d can pretty easily get a job in this market. Most if not all will ask for hands on electrician experience for entry positions though
I want to buy some of these simple shelves from IKEA to put my video game systems on. Would it be okay to drill them into the drywall and avoid the studs?
Eh.... With toggle bolts probably but I'd not do it.
Try ether just to see if the idea will work. If it can't light ether then I dunno.
Will ether leave a flammable residue?
Trying to get cap gun caps to ignite standard fireworks fuses to replicate airsoft grenades that they've stopped importing. Can't get the fricking things to light the fuse. Is there anything I can soak the fuse in to get it to light easier, or is there a better way?
I just had a guy around to install a wood burning heater.
He claimed because of the desired location (which is the only space in the house it can go) being under the ridge capping of my roof, it cannot go there because the flue can't come out there, and there is not enough room in the roof space to divert it far enough.
Does this seem reasonable, or does it sound like he was just trying to avoid doing a potentially more complicated job?
Also what are some DIY projects to do with a ton of split firewood
You'd have to build a legit chimney to come out through the ridge. Framed, sheeted, sided and flashed. If he's not a carpenter then it'd be out of his skill set.
What about just diverting the flue so it comes out to the side of the ridge? I've seen ones with near 90° elbows in them going through a wall, surely there is room in my roof space, which I can nearly stand up in, to divert the flue a foot or two over.
Like look at this, surely if you can have a 90° bend with a several foot long horizontal section, putting a 45° section to move to the side of the ridge would've fine.
That's single wall pipe. Cant have that in an attic. Needs to be insulated double wall stainless up there. Also need 2" clearances around it. You can't 90 it. You can 45 but two 45s and the smallest section of double wall is pretty big. Would take 3 to 4 feet of space. If he was up there and thought it was doable then he would have suggested it. Since I'm not there I'm not going to second guess him. You should get someone else to come out and look it over.
Ah that makes sense, thanks for that.
I assumed the double wall pipes could be disassembled, cut and bent, but I guess that isn't the case.
>If he was up there and thought it was doable then he would have suggested it
You'd be surprised at some of the completely doable things I've had contractors tell me aren't possible because it would be a shitty/time consuming job for them.
>You should get someone else to come out and look it over.
I already chimped out, threw it in the back of my truck and returned it all.
Maybe I should have brought up putting a bend in it before it went through the ceiling.
Oh well, too late now.
need some quick help where is the mass (minus) point here? I attached the plus but have no idea where the mass is supposed to be. Can I pick either one or two?
Any exposed metal part should be ground
what type of hammer should i use to flatten out 1/8" thick angle iron against 1/8" thick steel surface? i'm just trying to close a gap, so only the edge needs to meet, not the entire angle iron.
i've tried using a 16 oz. ball peen hammer, results were nil.
Use heat.
If you're driving your truck over it when it collapses you'll get tossed around a bit but will survive. Probably should wear a seat belt.
If you're asking if that will hold up to the weight of your truck, no way. Earthen bag construction isn't meant for anything but stacking. They're not ridged enough. Pure bags of set concrete aren't ridge enough. You have to have rebar for concrete to handle tensile loads. You'd be better off using standard earthen bags going straight up 12 feet and pour all the concrete into a rebar filled beam or, even better, an ibeam on top. If you want the arch learn to dig clay and fire bricks or buy a pallet of them.
I want to make a tunnel out of an extended arch with a span of about 12 feet.To build the arch I want to use polypropylene bags filled with a mixture of 1/3 portland cement and 2/3 local earth (predominately red clay). Each course of bags has two strands of barbed wire fence material running the length of the course to increase tensile strength. The arch is constructed using an interior template piece and lengths of anchored cord tied to the girth of each bag, similar to the standard methods used to construct arched tunnels of other materials. A spray on water-proofing compound is applied to the inside and outside surface upon completion, and the exterior is shielded with large sheets of plastic. It is finally backfilled.
Is it gonna collapse and kill me if I drive my 2500 series pickup truck over it?
Are those electric fireplaces that imitate a log fire cringe?
Yes but if you discard the decorations that come in the kit (they usually give a few options) and supplement plastic spiders and baby doll heads on the fake coals it looks 3,500% more metal.
My experience with those below-grade bathroom up pumps is that they always incur problems and are gross.
There should be some kind of tank everything goes into before the pump sends it up. It might be enclosed in a cabinet near the toilet somewhere. Make sure that plumbing is sealed correctly everywhere and that there is adequate ventilation to outside from whatever enclosure it's in. I've seen framing literally return to earthworms and salamanders from one of those things slowly leaking in its enclosure. You might want to have a septic company pump it out before you touch it.
>aliexpress battery tool
Ew
can you use a cheater pipe on a jumbo sized wrench (1.5 inches and up) while using the open end or would it eventually give and spread like the smaller sizes?
Can you, yes. While using the open side, yes. Would it eventually give, yes.
Sure if you're happy with 500ish millibars.
No. There's no such thing as 21v max lion. They're either lying off the bat or overcharging 20v max packs. If you want decent cheap power tools I'd recommend Porter Cable.
I want to DIY some window blinds/covers to stop my room heating up so much during heatwaves. I already have blackout curtains but the space between the window and the curtain still gets heated up.
My idea is to use corrugated cardboard for rigidity, a mylar space blanket as insulation, and then white cardboard over top to avoid burning a hole in the neighbors' house with the sunlight reflected by the reflective space blanket. Then mount it as close to the window pane as I can within each window frame.
My question is does putting another layer on top of the space blanket reduce it's effectiveness? I think it won't, and I'm pretty sure I saw similar material being used on the inside of insulated outdoors sleeping pads, but I'm not sure.
It’s used inside walls as well. Its function is generally to reflect radiative heat, not sunlight. It should work but the cardboard could become pretty hot (since the heat has nowhere to go). Making it white should help some though
I bought this place with a bathroom in the basement, which uses an 'up flush' toilet (not the brand, it just has a system that pulls in the waste and pumps it to the sewer line) because the sewer line is above the toilet
Overall, this is pretty convenient but also kind of gross. The toilet itself looks mostly clean, but if I let the water sit for a few days it starts getting nasty
That bathroom also has an odor distinctly worse than the rest of the basement or other bathrooms
I haven't shit in this toilet once because the way it flushes, the water comes up very high before finally flushing through
Anything I can do to potentially address the smell and the manner in which it pumps? Anyone have experience with one of these systems?
I'd definitely like this bathroom to be about as nice as the other bathrooms. The smell is probably more important than anything. And it's not THAT bad, but it's not particularly welcome either. I'd describe it as better smelling than a disgusting bar with a piss-soaked bathroom, but you would definitely notice it doesn't smell good or even neutral in there.
I'm going to take a crack at reading through the guide on the 'waste water transfer system' (the actual pump machine plugged into the wall and taking the pipe from the toilet)
don't flush while you're on it then
can I make a vacuum sealer with my vacuum cleaner and sealing with heat the bags? Am I missing something?
I plan to take a restricting adapter to put into the vacuum bags, and while sucking the air burning it with low temp flame to seal it, should work right?
Try it. It likely will work. Did you Google first?
nobody seem to have done it yet, weird ngl, it's not a so complicated idea.
Tomorrow I'll gather the pieces and see if it's shit or worth it
Post if works. If you have shop air there are pneumatic vacuum pumps for brake bleeding which are dirt cheap. If you want to do HVAC an electric vacuum pump is more money but I use mine for bleeding brakes too. (One automotive job buys all the gear BTW.)
https://m.aliexpress.com/item/4000594168666.html?pdp_ext_f=%7B%22ship_from%22%3A%22CN%22%2C%22sku_id%22%3A%2212000018526108426%22%7D&sourceType=fd&scm=1007.28480.273940.0&scm_id=1007.28480.273940.0&scm-url=1007.28480.273940.0&pvid=7404c4bc-5303-4349-8e94-9a79faff9af6&utparam=%257B%2522process_id%2522%253A%2522110%2522%252C%2522x_object_type%2522%253A%2522product%2522%252C%2522pvid%2522%253A%25227404c4bc-5303-4349-8e94-9a79faff9af6%2522%252C%2522belongs%2522%253A%255B%257B%2522id%2522%253A%252231523521%2522%252C%2522type%2522%253A%2522dataset%2522%257D%255D%252C%2522pageSize%2522%253A%25228%2522%252C%2522language%2522%253A%2522en%2522%252C%2522scm%2522%253A%25221007.28480.273940.0%2522%252C%2522countryId%2522%253A%2522AU%2522%252C%2522scene%2522%253A%2522TopSelection-Waterfall%2522%252C%2522tpp_buckets%2522%253A%252221669%25230%2523265320%25231_21669%25234190%252319164%2523661_15324%25230%2523132599%25232%2522%252C%2522x_object_id%2522%253A%25224000594168666%2522%257D&_t=%252Cscm-url%253A1007.28480.273940.0%252Cpvid%253A7404c4bc-5303-4349-8e94-9a79faff9af6&spm=a2g0n.11810135.productlist.7&browser_id=site%3Dglo%26c_tp%3DAUD%26region%3DAU%26b_locale%3Den_US&aff_trace_key=f6ead81cd264457db60fc9168bd12da3-1652970190329-05450-_ePNSNV&aff_platform=msite&gatewayAdapt=Pc2Msite
Is thus godod deal?
bro remove the fricking trackers please
How do you choose a good diamond disc? The 6€ one from lidl seems underwhelming obviously, but some discs are 100€ which is twice the price of the grinder. What's the sweet spot for a one time big demo job?
I paid like €45 for one once and it outlived the Bosch grinder I put it on. Did entire remodel plus new tiling with it. So I only have one reference point but I wouldn’t know why one would need a more expensive one unless your grinding natural stone or concrete all day
Do you know any software that could accurately simulate things like cabinet resonance for diy speaker designs with complex enclosure shapes to the point where you don't need to actually build several speakers and pick the right one (shape, size, bracing, dampening etc) through trial and error?
i need a new drain pump for my dishwasher. Are the parts on ebay that shit, the pump is 1/3 of the price elsewhere? or do I have to get one from one of the appliance part websites?
The parts on ebay are the same china-shit as the part stores without the part store markup.
You're going to have to try it yourself. Since these tools are made to be thrown away the manufacturer will change parts and molds in the middle of a production run to save a penny. Parts from the same model made in the same month may not be interchangeable while parts from different makers a decade apart couple swap right in. I'd give good odds they'll swap.
>same stuff
Thank you sirs
would it be a good idea to buy heating oil now instead of waiting till winter when it's even more expensive?
Yes
Can I take the quick change chuck/driver from one impact and put it in another? I like the old impact more and the new one smells bad everytime I use it, but the bits get stuck in the old boy.
I need two rubber washers
1" OD
3/4" ID
maybe 1/2" thick
I cant find any, and im willing to drill it out if I have to, Hell id take a rubber round and drill and cut it. But I cant really find anything suitable
Where do I find this shit?
>rubber washers
>1" OD
>3/4" ID
>maybe 1/2" thick
Garden hose washers are 1" OD and 5/8" ID. What you're describing seems to be more like a rubber bushing than a washer, would have to stack several to get 1/2". Have you tried looking at 1" rubber tubing to see if any has the correct ID? Then just cut 1/2" chunks as needed.
https://www.mcmaster.com/rubber-bushings/heavy-duty-unthreaded-bumpers/
>TL;DR:
>Do any transfer pumps and flow meters with work with boiled linseed oil, turpentine and paint thinner? Any other ideas to transfer these from drums of each to a separate drum?
This might deserve it's own thread but I thought I'd just post here. I make a product, on a very very small scale, that's a mix of boiled linseed oil (BLO), turpentine and paint thinner. We've recently moved up to buying drums of each. Prior we only bought drums of the BLO, and my 'production process', if you could call it that, was using a drum cradle and pouring the BLO into 5 gallon containers, and then just pouring 5 gallons of BLO along with the appropriate number of gallon containers of turpentine and paint thinner into an empty drum on a cradle, and shaking it back and forth a bunch to mix it.
Since we're buying drums now, if I want to keep things on the cradles it's going to take up a lot more space, and at any rate pouring stuff into containers and then dumping into a drum is less efficient than going drum to drum. So what I'm hoping to do is just get a pump and flow meter, and pump the stuff directly from the drums to final drum. What would be even better is just pumping the raw materials directly into their final containers, provided they were mixed well enough upon containerizing.
On that note, I may as well ask my next question.
>P1/2
>transfer pumps and flow meters with work with boiled linseed oil, turpentine and paint thinner?
Those automotive siphon pumps hold up to oil and diesel so maybe. Dunno how you'd meter it though except measuring volume and marking height on the container.
>plaster and limestone into metal garbage can
>grab shovel, mix a bunch
Seems an electric cement mixer might be easier at least?
>The dry portion in particular fricks up my nose/lungs despite wearing a respirator and changing filters
Try a loose fitting disposable paper mask, those stop finer particulate including viruses apparently.
>Those automotive siphon pumps hold up to oil and diesel so maybe
I'm mostly worried about the BLO, which becomes extremely sticky if allowed to oxidize. But I was just looking at said pumps too. My thoughts are that I can run BLO first, then the turpentine (a solvent), then the paint thinner (a better solvent). After use I could even flush the system with a cheap solvent like alcohol, which I could presumably reuse for other applications later if it wasnt too dirty, but it's cheap enough, esp if distilling, s.t it wouldnt be a huge issue regardless. I just don't want to be gumming up $70 pumps every three months.
>Seems an electric cement mixer might be easier at least?
I just got one actually, it's a step in the right direction but isn't ideal. Haven't used it her though and I imagine I'll get some lightbulbs while using. My thoughts have been that with the cement mixer, I'll install powerful exhaust fans and dump the shit in with my respirator on, turn it on and leave for 5 min while it mixes. I saw some mixers with a lid and want to try one later for maximum cleanliness; I just got mine for free. It doesnt remove the pain of manual bagging and weighing, but at least it's a tech upgrade.
>Try a loose fitting disposable paper mask, those stop finer particulate including viruses apparently.
I don't know how I didn't think of this, hindsight 20/20. Thank you fellow lover of science, I'm going to start wearing pantyhose on my face since its an effective filter.
>thanks for the gold!!!
>measuring volume and marking height on the container.
Maybe I'll switch to a plastic receiving drum that has some marks on the inside that indicate when to shut off the pump. I'm ok with slowly working up the tech tree but I'm getting a loan soon (unrelated) and was hoping to budget some money toward improving this process so that it's not a filthy process that ruins my clothes and clogs my nose with cement boogers.
>switch to a plastic receiving drum that has some marks on the inside that indicate when to shut off the pump
I was thinking you could just put a stick with marks on it in the barrel if your batches are always the same size, then you'd know when to stop the siphon as it gets down to the next mark.
A diaphragm pump with Teflon diaphragms will pump virtually anything. Flow meter wise we use little water wheel in line flow meters for straight acid and caustic because that's all that survives. It just uses a little wheel and a hall effect sensor and sends the pulses back to a transmitter.
Apparently the common trade name is a paddle wheel flow meter.
When should you solder something vs welding it? Also when should you solder vs splice a wire?
weak bond <---------> strong bond
solder ------ braze ------ weld
Pick based on requirements.
No. You'll destroy 80% of the threads. Either size up or live with what you tapped.
Pipe threader missing the die. Used one like it before. Think will break bones if you aren't paying attention.
I also mix a seperate product that's a blend of portland cement, plaster of paris, and calcium carbonate ('limestone'). This along with the aforementioned product are mixed to form a bonding agent used in a niche, hobby industry. The process is currently as follows (apologies for not greentexting the last process):
>dump cement, plaster and limestone into metal garbage can
>grab shovel, mix a bunch
>grab scooper, scoop into bags on scale until weight is right
I hate both processes passionately, it's very dirty (I'm not afraid of getting dirty, but between the liquid portion and the dry this is a very sticky, chemical-ly and dusty process that's hard on my lungs and leaves my clothes permanently stinky). The dry portion in particular fricks up my nose/lungs despite wearing a respirator and changing filters. The only solution I've got this portion of the process is loading up the materials into an hopper style thing with a ribbon mixer, mixing, then using some sort of gravity fed contraption that outputs roughly the proper weight into each bag (I'd still manually bag each one, but that's fine - I just want to protect my lungs and not get covered with cement dust).
Problem is, that'd be expensive. But if sounds doable to DIY, I'd be ecstatic to take this on. I would cherish my workflow with this. It's basically a beer money gig for me, so I always push off orders because of how much I can't stand doing it. Removing my hatred of the process would be amazing.
>P2/2
If you wanna go overboard, you could always buy a PLC and program up a very simple pump x/y/z gallons into container system.
I know its logically / electrically possible to pump liquids in this manner (if this were something like water it'd be no issue), but can any pump and metering equipment stand up to something as tragic as boiled linseed oil? I don't know I've if you've met the stuff, but it oxidizes and turns into the absolute worst stuff ever (not sure if thats whats actually taking place, but it's properties change after being exposed to air, maybe some volatile compounds just evaporate). It becomes like the stickiest gummiest waxiest oil thing you've ever seen, and as a bonus it will literally spontaneously combust; it turned my trash can into brick that my neighbor extinguised, and my laundry after work has caught on fire.
Maybe a good way to describe it if you haven't met it is that while containerized it's a reluctantly sloshy heavy af oil, but if oxidized (like if you leave a nearly empty container exposed to air), it will form icicles that are almost like a soft plastic. I can't see any pump handling this if not flushed with solvents immediately after, and my hope is that by running the BLO first, then the solvents, it will at least be cost effective vs paying myself a wage.
My mom got some mini horses and I'm sick and tired of lugging buckets of water for them already. Was wanting to use some kind of float valve with a hose and was wondering if you guys had any suggestions on a particular kind.
probably just a typical plastic float valve, if you're not heating the water plastic is fine. should be super easy provided the water receptacle has a suitable face to mount the float itself. I've only ever mounted them on 55gallon drums, so for reference something of that curvature works fine.
They make them for horse and livestock. Stop reinventing the wheel.
https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Automatic-Waterer-Animals-Livestock/dp/B08K72WG6B
There's 5 horses and she's already bought the trough. Trust me, if this was my shit I'd have handled it much differently.
can i change a metric tapped hole to a coarse thread one for a helicoil
accidentally used a tap for the wrong thread size. am i fricked? the difference is literally just M10 x 1.25 vx m10 x 1.50
M10 x 1.25 vs* m10 x 1.50
What is this thing? All I know is it made by the Sioux Tool company and its old. Sorry for the shit photo, its from a local auction site and that's as good as it gets.
nut torquer
No. It has no way of measure torque and it uses a worm drive and a 3/4th HP motor. It would easily destroy shit if you tried to use it like that.
Picture related.
>no way of measure torque
i didnt say it would torque it to spec
No clue. Sioux has been around forever, and made a lot of custom tools for aircraft and tank manufacturing during the war, and supplied a lot of industries. That looks like something with a very specific use - you might want to start finding Sioux catalogs online. You could take a chance and ask Snap On, because that's who they got bought by in the 90's.
Someone did find a catalog. Never mind. Woo weaponized autism.
Is it normal practice for a circular saw to stop mid cut? I can tell something declutches and it spins again once the blade is free.
I assume I can just slow back and try again until the cut completes, it’s a real pain to stop and try to center again. But maybe do shallower cuts first?
Cordless, yes. They got no balls. Corded, no. They'll burst into flames before giving up.
I want to make a weak trolling motor to use with my paddle board, something like a motor on a pole that I can hand hold. I don't need to go fast, just enough to go up a slow current and ideally use the eight 18650 batteries I already have.
- Is it realistic that I can waterproof the motor? I have a 3d printer, I figured I'd sandwich a rubber gasket between two halves and clamp them together. How would I waterproof the shaft?
- From other similar products it looks like I'd need a 12-24v 200w motor. Does this sound right to you? If I could go weaker and get more time out of it I'd opt for that. How much use time could I get on this with eight or a few more 18650's?
- Electronically it's just a motor hooked up to a battery with a switch in between, right?
200w is big. Use a cordless drill motor... And a cordless drill battery... And housing. Actually just chuck a 2 ft long SS rod into a cordless drill and jam a prop on the end. Low effort, low investment, rapid prototype proof of concept.
Where do I get a cheap ozone detector/sensor type thing? Nothing fancy, just something that'll tell if the ozone concentration is safe or not. Cheapest ozone detector thingies I've seen (that weren't just a disembodied Arduino module) was on Ali Express for like €80, but I'd prefer something nearer €50-60 if possible.
I've rigged together an ozone generator using only a remote controlled plug, a timer plug, a fan, and a cheap ozone generator... That didn't have a timer, remote control, or a fan. Now I'd like to use it, but I'd also like to avoid committing unalive by exposing myself dangerous amounts of ozone.
Any doctor bros here? I'm interested in having a portable heart monitor attached to me so I can see what the frick my heart is up to. For a couple of years now I've had a general sense of uneasiness that's been getting worse, and I've been to docs but didn't get anything outside of a blood test and stethoscope check ups. Also seeing the doctor where I live is basically a massive ordeal and requires me to get lucky at a walk-in clinic or just go to the ER where waits are 10+ hours if you aren't having a serious issue that needs immediate attention (rightfully so I guess).
I know the Apple Watch + iPhone thing is one way to monitor for certain heart issues. But I want some info from someone who is in the medical field and knows more about it. Apple shit is often 90% advertising. Is there something better I can get? I know clinics sometimes loan you portable systems that are better. I get heart palpitations infrequently, and more recently I get these weird abdominal twitches right where it *looks* like the ass end of my heart is. It makes me think its some kinda fibrillation but its basically impossible to tell. You dudes know of anything I can hook up to my body to see my heart rhythm and maybe get a hint as to any problems at home in a semi PrepHole fashion? Specifically I want a wearable and not something I have to actively use.
inb4 go see doctor
>I've been multiple times, generally need to burn days off work just for the privilege
>Doc sees me for five minutes with a stethoscope, "seems fine" even though any of the events im experience dont occur readily enough to be happening at the time of a check up
etc
Not sure if this deserves it's own thread but recently my screen broke on my 2ds. I'm wondering if it would be possible to when I take apart my flat 2ds to implant the electronic guts into a 3ds's shell. Like to convert the flat design into a clamshell.
not at all... motherboards are completely different.. no to mention the screen and screen connector
not sure where to go: my dishwasher clicks when I start a cycle, nothing else. If cancel the cycle, the drain pump drains the dishwasher and if I click a new cycle, it will then fill up with water and not circulate the water... This means my circulation pump is bad, right?
Is there any way to test the circulation pump with a variable DC power supply? Also, why would it just click in the beginning, does the circulation pump run at start briefly?
If you press cycle start and it doesn't fill up it's probably not the circulation pump. Dishwashers can be really stupid timer driven things or can have a micro-controller and a dozen sensors in them. Which is yours?
The blue ones are usually UV stabilized but still get brittle if left in the sun for years. Quicker you get ivy, bushes, moss or maybe even sod growing over them the better. Might want to look into earth bag construction because this is in the same spirit.
I should have specified, these will be buried with dirt over the top, side that will need to be covered with ivy is the side away from my yard that won't be "used". I'll check out the Earth bag stuff to see if that may fit my needs better.
there arent too many sensors on it, it is a kenmore 665.13223n410. Last night activated a cycle to test it and it ran like normal; drain pump activated, it filled up, heated the water and started running/spraying. I opened the door - shut it - and continued the cycle and nothing happened, silence. If I cancel the cycle, the drain pump pumps, no problems at all.
I really do not know what is up, I am starting to assume it is the control panel although people are saying the circ. pump is a consistent problem. Dont understand why it just clicks if I start a cycle but if I cancel/drain it and run a cycle again, it gets to dispense water but doesnt wash.
How dumb of an idea would it be to use barrels filled with stone, dirt, old mulch to build a retaining wall. Would dig into a hill we have a few feet then compact the soil, drop a few of these onto the compacted soil, dril a bunch of 1inch+ holes into the sides and bottom, then fill. These would be cut to about 3ft, and then I would fill around these to make the ground flat.
Maybe put some mesh on the outside going down the hill to promote ivy growth so they're not an eye sore.
This is on my ceiling, it looks wet but it's not damp or soft, what's happening and how do I fix it? Roof leak?
Water leak. Could be roof, could be plumbing, could be animal. Get up in the attic and figure it out.
a possum pissed in your roof brother HH
i have a healthy and safety question about my job
I am doing a construction gig at an oil refinery. we are working in a shallow excavation, 8 feet deep and a little smaller than a football field. I feel like this is a place where heavy gases can pool up... and form an invisible pool of toxic shit. today was my first day there and luckily it was pretty windy and i spent most of the day above the 'pool'
but should i assume gases are leaking out all day at that place and some gnarly shit may collect in there? i dont see anyone else wearing a resipirator, but should i consider one.
how about just an n95 and maybe throw a face cover over it or something
Hmmm. I'd think even on a calm day the heat from the sun warming the ground would cause enough convection to stir the air in the pit. Regardless a respirator and n95 won't do anything since your worry would be more about lack of oxygen over poisonous gases.
Not really. I'd be good exercise.
I'm wanting to increase my mechanical skills and ability to be handy/use tools. I have an opportunity to do laboring with a brick layer and wondering if taking on that job part time would help my goal? I believe most of it erecting scaffolds, moving bricks and mixing mortar
Lithium cell. How fricked is this? Can I contimue using it without it catching on fire?
Not bad. I'd wrap it in kapton tape.
If it's a two wire solenoid most likely it'll work fine. There are some out there that want different voltages for actuating then holding but you should be able to look up the specs on the coils you have.
It says 12v ttl. Arduino runs on 5v ttl. You'd need a level shifter.
Is there any reason i couldn’t use a couple of DC step down regulators off a car battery to power some solenoids on an excavator? Schematics show several 10v solenoids that control the hydro system.
Mice ate the frick out of the harness after a weekend in a field. Computer is Kentucky fried. Engine runs without computer but I have no hydraulics to move it. Cannot get new computer. Repairing the board will take 6mo. I just want the machine out of the field until i can fix it. At the end of my rope on this.
Can I use this combo to make the laser work with an arduino/raspberryPi I tried to find the datasheet on the driver but can't find it.
Trying to laser engrave a pattern on a surface. I created the 3D model of it in the first place. Laser engraver guides only talk about flat surfaces and cylinders, or mention 'you could get a 3d model and use that' but never actually tell you HOW.
How do I map a pattern to a 3D surface and burn that shit in with a 3 axis engraver or modified router/printer?
Should I fill this before sealing the deck?
Yes
I don’t like that the tape is tearing on the edge, they are cheap I’d jus5 replace it.
You can buy used medical gear at auctions. Find out what the docs would use, and start looking online.
But if you go to your doctor and say you have heart rhythm problems they should set you up. Play up your symptoms if necessary.
-hard to breathe sometimes
-heart feels like it skips a beat or races
How loose is it? Looks like the bottom is getting ready to splinter out. If you can get some glue under those parts and stabilize it you can fill it. If not flip the board or replace it. That's a high traffic area.
It has a control board. That's all I need to know about it to toss it out of my house. Since it did run I'd check the sensors and switches when it's not working. Maybe a bad door switch. If you want to rule out the pump pull the wires off it, plug them into a multimeter, turn it on, and see if the control board is turning it on.
I'd give good odd the motor is the same from civic to element but never tried taking one apart so can't help you there. (Guessing) They might be threaded on the shaft with the nut acting more as a stopnut.
>How loose is it?
Not too loose I guess. I'll try filling it.
Filling costs you nothing. No reason NOT to do it.
> I'd give good odd the motor is the same from civic to element but never tried taking one apart so can't help you there. (Guessing) They might be threaded on the shaft with the nut acting more as a stopnut.
I hit it with a hammer and that loosened it enough to come off.
I totally fricked up the fan lol. But not that way. The civic motor worked great, but it rotates the other direction. It came with a fan blade that is designed to rotate the other way, so it works out.
But now both fan blades rotate the same direction, and I think they are supposed to spin opposite directions for stability.
But where I really fricked up is… I had to destroy the original motor to get the fan blade and motor off , since I needed to use the plastic mounting frame. The bolt was stripped and would NOt come off, so I cut it off. So I put everything back together , very excited. It worked! But now I see the other fan isn’t spinning. Realize I pulled, destroyed, and replaced the working fan.
well now you know what you're doing so... a win?
Lessons learned!
I’m swapping out the fan motor on car radiator. 1) I drive Honda Element, and I got the fan from a Honda Civic. The motors looks the same even though fan size is different. Will it work ok? The connectors all fit.
2) I can’t get the fan off the motor. I took off the bolt connecting fan blade to motor, and expected it to just slide off. Is there a second way that these blades are attached that I’m missing?
Pix sort of rel.
I can't fricking drill, it keeps moving. Is there proper drill technique that I should be doing or what?
Are you drilling metal? You normal punch a tiny hole to keep the bit in place when you start.
>You normal punch a tiny hole to keep the bit in place when you start.
i punch two little holes using a template but its hard to tell if the template is crooked while crouching down to hold it in place.
How the frick do you drill holes through a 2 ton pipe , then put sensors on opposite sides of them.? Can you post some photos of what you are doing?
I think I was screwing a nail in. It was hidden beneath the wood
I'll try that next time
Get a punch. Hit it hard.
Thinking about spray painting some steel fenders to match my bicycle frame. How much do you think this would cost me in paint, top coat and anything else I would need to do the job. Never done this type of thing before.
Thanks.
A can of paint is like 6 or 8 bucks. You'll need a color coat and a clear coat so two different cans. Three if you need a primer too. Also some sand paper for roughing up the fenders so the paint sticks. So between $15 to $30.
Yes. It should look like oil not cream.
A piece of angle iron laying on a pipe will find it's center. Weld a guide rod or tube to the back of the angle and you'll have near perfect holes. pic related.
ah I had no idea about sanding down the surface or the primer. thanks! hopefully a single can will do multiple fenders.
i have to drill four holes in a 18in pipe to attach sensors. They must be 180deg from each other and must run parralel to the length of the pipe. My boss said to just eyeball it. customer compains the sensors were put on crooked. yall have any idea how to quickly eyeball this ... or any tools i can quickly utalize to do this? I was thinking a level would help. also it has to be done quick cuase boss places a huge empahsis on getting everything done in a rush.
How many poles, what are you drilling with. 180 degrees means the same hole can be used for sensor on each side. As long as you drill in at 90 degree angle to pipe, hole will be properly aligned.
I’d create a jig to allow me to drill 90 straight up and down. clamp to keep pipe still. Drill press would be the way to go. Never done before, so I’m just pulling out my ass, but that’s what I’d do.
Follow up. Go spend $100 on a drill press, and get a pipe jig. If your boss doesn't wanna pay for it, tell him it’s the only way to get good alignment, and that is the only way you know how. If he insets on doing it by hand, ask him to show you how.
these are massive 2 ton pipes, and sometimes theyre already set in place.
>As long as you drill in at 90 degree angle to pipe,
ive also noticed ive drilled a bunch of the holes crooked. i notice this when i have the thread tapper attatched to it and i step back to look at it.
when i am drilling the hole, it looks like i am going straight down (perpendicular to the pipe) but clearly i am not when i thread the bolts in and they are crooked as frick. i wonder if this is affecting data quality on the sensor.
Build a proper jig, and it will align the template properly.
>I’d create a jig to allow me to drill 90 straight up and down
no idea what this wold look like.
YouTube that shit
Does this gear lube have water in it?
Any thing I should know before attempting to drill a 16mm home through 2 inches of steel with a drill press?
Use a good amount of force, peck at it to clear the chips and keep the bit oiled. If you notice it not cutting as it was or chattering stop before you break the bit and sharpen it or change the force you're applying.
why won't this center in my drill head? span it around every conceivable way and it's all over the place.
Because it's an sds bit and you're trying to chuck it in a jacobs chuck.
only noticed it this bad with a 450mm bit. might still work.
>Silverline 245001 9/16 Hex to SDS Plus Adaptor 200mm $30 ffs
infact just going to hacksaw the sds attachment bit off the base.
Is this the shit I need if I have a thing with this weird non-replaceable bolt in an unavoidably damp place that keeps getting rusty and I want it to stop?
what the frick?
What about it
it's just a sounding rod
is there any reason why 12 volts wouldnt light a test light, but show 12 volts on a multimeter?
Broken test light.
Might not be able to supply enough current at that voltage.
what is the goto way to fixate the outer side of tape to metal?