Where does one source carbon fiber poles locally? I want a nice new carbon fiber SUP paddle but don't want to pay real money for it. I figure I can 3d print the handle and head out of PETG, maybe laminate fiber onto the head if really necessary.
sqtddtot Stupid Questions that don't deserve their own thread
>Where does one source carbon fiber poles locally?
Did you try Jim's House Of Exotic Composite Tube down on Central Ave. near the arts district? Not sure about the cross street, but if you get to the train tracks you've gone too far.
Otherwise try The Tubery or Tubes, Tubes, Tubes & More but avoid Tubing Plus- at least the one on 3rd and Magnolia, the manager is a dick.
Hope this helps!
what about Nicole's tubes, where Nicole gets into the tube with you?
What's a 3d modelling program where I can draw out a rough shape and then put in measurements and it basically adjusts the shape to the measurements I've put in?
For reference of what I'm trying to do, I'm trying to make a better axe handle because the axes at my job keep breaking because most americans are actually physically moronic from not moving their bodies for decades. The main problem is that the fiberglass core gets snapped at the neck. So I want to put in one of the axe heads and concept out some different ideas of what I can do to improve the stability of the axe and have it be something other than *welding a metal stick to the axe*
Most of them. That feature is called parametric modeling. You're putting a parameter in.
You need to define your shape in a particular way or it doesn't work as you hope, it's still a lot of work.
>parametric modelling
based ty, that's good enough for me.
I use Google Sketchup for modeling. It's dead easy to learn and has a CAM plugin that can generate toolpaths for CNC. I'd suggest it.
>Fiberglass
For an axe handle? There's your problem.
takes more of a beating than wood does is the thing, but you're not wrong.
ditch the fiberglass and get a decent wood handle
12 volts at .00000000001 amps would do that. Multimeters are high impedance devices. They don't load a circuit so will show phantom voltages.
Working on my screened in porch. The overhang on the old car port is steel frame. I’m going to cut the soffit over the 2” steel beam, and secure the 2x4 to it. Question is, the total length is 18’ and I do not have the method of hauling lumber that size. Would I be fine to section that off with two 9’ boards? It will not be load bearing.
Last time I had lumber delivered the shit was so bent I couldn’t even use it.
>Will you help me pay more for a cheap, mass produced item???
These people destroy/diy/
Strap to roof rack
Buy better ones you fricking moron
>speaks of people destroying PrepHole
>tells someone to buy something instead of making it
A little self reflection is in order.
>A little self reflection is in order.
OP doesn't know what program to use or the CAD/CAM terminology for the process he seeks access to, believes that structural failure in an FRP tool handle is because "most americans are actually physically moronic from not moving their bodies for decades"...
but is ostensibly going to not just redesign but manufacture and retrofit a superior engineering solution that will overcome this alleged "physical moronation" that stops at the borders of the USA (and one would presume exists within the physical boundaries of Alaska, Hawaii and US trust teritories) territories.
No self-reflection needed there, amirite?
No, it's the person who accurately calls it out as moronic bait who needs to look inward...
The problem is that either the fiberglass core snaps at the neck, this comes from people throwing them and sending the axes flying into the floor or a wall or into a steel beam instead of the target in front of them. This gradually weakens the epoxy inside the eye and creates a wiggle, that wiggle causes stress fractures in the fiberglass core and it snaps. That or they knock out all the epoxy and the head just comes off.
Wood handles break very easily if someone can't throw the axe correctly and most people do not throw correctly even when you take their hands and do guided movements.
Steel handles are the best bet but often the grip area will be destroyed by the steel and need to be replaced.
I would love to say a thinner sharper blade is the answer to all this but these motherfrickers will yeet an axe at full strength, watch it slam into a wooden target 10/12 feet away, rebound straight at them and not move a single fricking muscle as it slams into their dick. So I can't make them sharp enough to slice paper and can only profile them so thin before it's dangerous.
unironically yes, a soft throw where you're just extending your arm and going though the motion will work better than giving her the ol' razzle dazzle.
tl;dr. If you're trying to argue with me good luck.
Just because something has been stagnate for a long time doesn't make it optimal. Also you're not accounting for anything OP might learn or the fun he might have while redesigning it.
>Stagnant
It's not. Companies have trademarks and copyrights. They have to constantly adjust designs and redesign and make new.
It's an absolutely abominable waste of time.
The sharpening was an exceptional use of time tho.
Thing is that as usual, OP didn't disclose important info like the fact that these axes are being used for something they weren't intended for, the handles that fail are modified (weakened) by him because they don't fit, the edge profiles are being modified for a purpose that the original profiles were optimized to prevent (going deep and sticking) , that also creates more stresses both when they hit *and* when removing them.
On top of that it's in a commercial setting where untrained amateurs are putting them through duty cycles that would likely cause even purpose built throwing axes to fail prematurely.
the fact that these axes are being thrown was revealed but was not actually relevant for the question. Since the question was simply "How put axe head into cad program with accurate measurements".
Its absolutely relevant to not wasting peoples time, but no surprise that someone given to posting time wasting irrelevant "corrections" like yours wouldn't get that.
also I don't touch the handles?? The most I do is sharpen the edge of the blade so that it doesn't bounce off wood.
Most throwing axes are not one piece designs, if you look at WATL or IATF axes it's an axe head on a wooden shaft.
Could you explain to me how knowing the use of the tool is relevant to me wanting a program that can use measurements to create an accurate depiction of a tool? Is there a different program I would use if the axe was meant to be thrown vs simply splitting wood logs?
if it's super easy I might swap that, I'm in freecad right meow watching youtube videos on what buttons do what and it's working so far but not intuitive.
I mean, I'm the parametric guy and just didn't want to bring it up, but really you just buy whatever hatchet handle they have at the hardware store and go to town on it with a rasp until it fit perfectly.
lmao, nah that was my plan until I found out the handles ranged from as expensive to 3 times as expensive as the axe. Legitimately it's cheaper to just buy a new axe, the problem is now that the local stores don't have the axe anymore and we've got some 14/16 axe heads with broken handles.
>ask thread for help
>guy answers my question
>thank him
>some other guy with a stick up his ass makes a 'smart' comment and then tries to defend his moronic take
>start shitposting for the fun of it
Classic
>hey guise, I need halp, what do?
>all of your answers are wrong per the standards of esoteric sanctioning bodies of a meme sport whose acronyms I will now casually drop
Classic.
>tl;dr.
Why does anyone think announcing that they are too lazy to read a handful of sentences is some kind of "gotcha"?
Especially sad and pointless when there's no proof that they didn't read it and it's more likely that they did read it and were BTFO and all they could do is respond with the laziest "I'm a dipshit and proud of my efforts to remain ignorant" memes in the history of memes.
its the digital equivalent of sticking your fingers in your ears and saying "I CAN'T HEAR YOU LALALALALALA"
because that guy doesn't care what you have to say. this is /sqtddtot/ not /soapbox general/. if someone doesn't ask a question don't feel you're entitled to respond.
A guy is trying to redesign something that's been optimized over hundreds- even thousands - of years.
Use your PrepHole spirit to make money, increase your quality of life, even increase your skillset to do the first 2, but don't waste your fricking time trying to redesign something that all of humanity has already optimized.
Walmart, on the shelf, has 3 different hatchets. Their top one is all but indestructible, the cheap one is incredibly lightweight and portable,the middle is in between
Don't waste your energy on shit that isn't worth even a second of thought. Just like that guy who made his own shovel - you fricking idiot, you can buy a million variations of a shovel. If you have so little going on that you have time to make a shovel, you have enough time to learn a skill that will allow you to do something actually productive
>trying to redesign
I'm not trying to redesign anything I'm simply trying to put my idea into a digital format. It's following the same concept as the standard method of putting a handle on an axe. You stick a shaft in the eye and then grip it with friction or bolt it in place.
this is PrepHole to save money, increase my quality of life, and learn how to use a program that I didn't even know existed until today.
Let's look at the walmart axes for a second.
1) Doesn't look like it would be comfortable to throw but it looks like it would probably stick to the wood fairly easily. However it's a 3 in 1 and I'm betting those other two options would not handle being thrown as hard as possible very well, not to mention according to the owner it can't have any hammer protrusions on the back of the axe. Also it's 40 dollars, too expensive.
2) The handle will break through the bottom of that grip and the blade itself looks fricking THICK, which means more grinding for me and probably lots of it. We actually have a few of these that I can put the grips back on, but with exception of cutting the rubber off entirely it's very hard to move the grip back over the end of the handle. Also it's still too expensive.
3) It's wood and that shit will probably break the first weekend because when you tell an american to not throw something as hard as they possibly can, they look at you funny and then try thowing so hard their shoulder pops out of socket just to spite you. Price is fine, but repairing those handles every weekend will cost more than the axe itself.
4) Honestly I think these would be fine, but the head is probably too light and we've had to turn people away who have tried bringing these in. For insurance purposes I'm pretty sure we have to follow a league guidelines as they've already been considered "safe"
Honestly all I'm going to do is stick a metal stick in the eye and then making it stay in there somehow. Might try forge welding them together.
Gee, it's almost like there's a reason that most all serious throwing axes, knives, hatchets, etc. are one piece designs with ultra thin blades that make them go deep and stick exactly how you dont want a working hatchet or axe to do.
>buy better ones
If I was the owner I would, unfortunately I am not the owner and the owners are cheap fricking canadians who buy harbor freight axes with shitty profiling that I have to grind into something that will stick into wood. When I showed up to this place the axes had basically rounded edges and you had to yeet them as hard as possible and they still would bounce off the wood half the time.
What job do you work where you throw axes all day, and how have Canadians imported this to the Us? And why don’t I get to throw axes all day? What am I missing out on?
This I believe. What used to be rugged individualism has turned into “I know how to do everything already”. Americans are chimps pretending to be humans for the most part.
Also Americans are literally destruction incarnate, you give them wood handles and they shatter. You give them plastic handles and they break them. You give them metal handles and they bend them. There is literally nothing you can do to prevent these motherfrickers from being moronic and breaking the things that you give them. They have 4 of these Axe throwing venues in canada and apparently they don't have any of these problems up there, so they sent us one of the axes they use and we fricking broke it the first day it was in service.
>They have 4 of these Axe throwing venues in canada and apparently they don't have any of these problems up there
The limp wrist safeguards the tool handle.
This reads like a trick question, or like there should be two trains approaching each other at different speeds involved...
>Working on my screened in porch. The overhang on the old car port is steel frame.
Are you converting the old carport to a screened porch or are they two separate structures? And if its the latter are they adjacent or 60' aparr?
>I’m going to cut the soffit over the 2” steel beam, and secure the 2x4 to it.
To the steel beam, or the soffit you just cut?
>Question is, the total length is 18’ and I do not have the method of hauling lumber that size.
>Would I be fine to section that off with two 9’ boards? It will not be load bearing.
Great job of not disclosing what the 2×4's actual purpose is while creating more questions like why if it's not load bearing does it need to be a 2x4, and what does it have to do with a screened porch and how the frick should I know the best dimensions for this mystery part that may or may not be "secured" to soffit that is unsupported where you cut it?
I am not good at articulating. Was done in haste.
Car port, turning into screened in porch/patio. Secure 2x4 to steel c beam. I’m using 2x4s all around for consistency, structure, and longevity. All treated.
Only other thing holding me back is the block wall not being level. I’ll probably just shim it and put on epoxy or something in the gaps. My 2x10s are level with shims in it.
The ones labeled 9' are really a couple inches shorter, 104" and change. It' likely that you can find 10' ones though, ~116". I would get the slightly longer size, and use some of that ~8" excess length to make a half lap joint.
Also, a picture is worth 1000 words.
So this weekend I got the soffit ready to expose the C-Beam and make it level to prevent rocking with the 2x4 top "base". Quite a bit of rust in there, so I will lightly grind off a bit of the rust and paint over it with POR-15. I don't know if it will matter as it is just surface rust.
From there, I will cut my two 2x4x10's to 9 feet and, secured to the C-Beam, will be the basis of my frame. I'll nail it together with the Paslode I just bought, with exterior 3" nails.
Mostly by me typing this shit out, I can think this through easier and answer my own questions or what have you. Anyhow, this leads me to ask if my plan is sufficient, or if I should change things. I'll post pictures when I get home. It's just a C beam framed overhang on top of a car port, attached to the house with a slight angle.
This being a screened in porch, with a 2.5ft barricade wall. my beams will go up to 80". So after the 2x10 and the 2x4 going across the ground, will leave them to be 47" in height. I was originally planning on doing 3' sections to have easy to manage plexiglass panels I could take on and off during the seasons, but I may start with 6' sections(accounting for 2x4 width) and just add them in to 3' sections by winter time, just to save a little on immediate up front cost. Questions are:
I was thinking for the door frame, should I have a second common stud flush with the king stud, going all the way up to the top plate(the two 2x4x9 going along the C beam), or do you think it would matter? I have a tiny door for the west end, as the opening in the barricade is only 31.5". The other will be 36", but I might go with a sliding door or french door as there is no wall on the east side. I question if the extra stud on the outside of the king stud will be necessary due to the 6' distance between studs. If it is unstable I will build 45 degree supports.
If it’s not a support member and only to hold a screen there shouldn’t be a reason why you couldn’t cut it in half.
>i want thing without paying for thing, wat do
just carve yourself a wooden paddle, moron
I want a $400 thing for $100 by making it myself. I swear, the number of smooth brain idiots popping up around here lately is alarming
I'm planning on making a bed out of beech wood. I already got some beams that will act as bedframes and support the weight of 2 adults. Should I screw directly into the wood, or should I make pilot holes first? Asking because I'm new to woodworking and would really like to avoid screwing up the bed.
pilot holes first. otherwise you risk splitting the wood
Even with beams as deep as 5 inches?
At that size you predrill not to stop the beam from splitting but yo keep the extra long fastener from breaking off.
Would it be possible to create optic fiber at home? Doesnt have to be perfect.
I cant seem to find anything on this.
this is my aluminum juice press. Last year I put the screen part in the dishwasher and it came out stripped of its polish and looking corroded with some spots of scale. How it looks now is after a water and soap cleaning. How do I restore it to looking polished? What happened in the dishwasher to frick it up so bad?
>How do I restore it to looking polished?
A mild acid might work. Something like acetic (vinegar) or citric. If not, you'd probably have to do it manually, i.e. sandpaper.
>What happened in the dishwasher to frick it up so bad?
Dishwasher detergents can have some pretty aggressive bases in them. They kind of have to in order to make up for the lack of any real scrubbing power in the machine. One or more of these reacted with the aluminum, giving you some kind of oxide/phosphate layer on it.
tl;dr: Chemistry is gay, don't put it in the dishwasher again.
Thanks, I do have a bunch of vinegar luckily so I'll give that a go
I'm shredding a shitload of brush at the moment, branches small trees etc.
I'm spreading it around in the parts I want to keep growth down, especially around the septic tank
Good idea/bad idea?
Anything else i can use this stuff for as I will have piles of it by the time I'm finished
Don’t think it will limit growth too much but it will return nutrients into the soil. Also, expect more ground insects where you spread it.
Where do I get virgin EPS beads to replicate the results in this video? I have all the mold making equipment I might need to accomplish this.
could someone recommend a type of scree to put in here to re-attach this? its the bracket to hold a gas spring hinge on a light weight rear window
You want a rivet, not a screw
Can you access the other side? If so you could drill out that rivet and install a small bolt/nut.
I'd agree with the others to pop rivet it. Problem with trying to put a screw in there would be as soon as the threads start to dig in what's left of the rivet it'll start spinning and you won't be able to get it out easily.
>uses way too much power
Is this an off grid system and your inverter can't handle the startup surge or are you poor and can't afford $10/mo one costs to run? If it's the former then there's soft starts that can bring that surge down to almost nothing. If it's the later we can't help you because it take x amount of energy to cool y amount of space.
Not op, but tell me more about this soft surge thing. I tried running a portable AC off battery power, and the copressor startup wrecks it.
>four people haven't noticed the bracket is broken and there's no meat left on it
>>four people haven't noticed the bracket is broken and there's no meat left on it
i think there is enough meat on it to drill it out and put nut an washer
-op
how cheap is a rivit tool? i pass by harbor freight tomorrow
Like $30. You could also get a rivnut tool that puts a threaded insert inside the cavity in the same manner a rivet.
will the same rivit tool work to repair a shovel blade + handle? or do i need a different rivit tool for different siZe rivits into different materials?
Pop riveters have different sized heads for different sized rivets. This thing will do 3/32 in., 1/8 in., 5/32 in., 3/16 in. and 1/4 in. rivets, comes with 50 and is only 20 bucks at harbor freight.
and why cant i use a screw for 20 cents? recommendations on a screw that will stick into aluminum?
what else could i rivit if i buy the tool. i dont think i have ever needed to rivit anything. or maybe just didnt realize it.
just peen the end of the rivet in your shovel handle with a hammer
or hammer the end of the rivet in your shovel with your peen
spray snow (pic related) on the window, foil on the spray snow
Find a spring big enough to go over the waste hose, slide it over the kink; the spring will keep it from kinking so hard
Take it all apart, repaint with some good oil-based paint before putting it back together, and use some sealant on top of the heads of your screws/nails you use to put it all back together.
checked
or skip the altogether and jam your peen through the hole
fuuuuck
skip the hammer altogether
it looks like there is the butt of rivit in there. could i screw a screw+washer in there and it may hold?
halp
How do I air condition 32 sq ft? a 5000 btu window unit uses way too much power.
Get a small window unit with an automatic thermostat. Then it will only use enough power to cool the room and shut itself off when you preferred temperature is reached. The power use would balance itself out.
Hello friends,
I'm looking for a big (electric) drill.
This Fein unit claims a maximum of 1-1/4" when using a twist bit in steel.
Is there anything larger or of the same size class that's still being produced; so that it'd be easier to procure?
WTF kind of rating is, "claims a maximum of 1-1/4" when using a twist bit in steel?" My 18v cordless could twist a 1-1/4 bit in steel if babied. With that bit size and material you should be using a magdrill and annular cutters.
If you want a hand drill like in your pic you'll find they're all about the same power since the limiting factor will be 16 amps (80% of a 20a outlet).
Looks hickory but need more pics and a rough location.
>My 18v cordless could twist a 1-1/4 bit in steel if babied.
I need one with at least a 9/16" chuck.
My uncle's Milwaukee cordless kept shutting down with just a 13/16" drill in it.
I want this for places that I don't have the room or that I don't want to set up a mag drill.
Is the black thing on the right (threads over the black thing on the left) a standard sort of fastener that I can get at home depot or w/e? If so what's it called?
Sex bolt. They got a couple in tg
He hardware drawers by screws. Not sure if it fits your needs
What wood this is?
How do I remove a bolt with a broken head without damaging the threads?
I was trying to remove the variator cover from an old scooter and a bolts head ended up breaking off.
Using a bolt extractor
Drilling it out correctly won’t ruin threads but it can be difficult
Drilling the pilots which you extract the bolt out with a left hand drill bit helps immensely too
Buy square extractors if you can, the cheap spiral ones are very bad, easy out brands are not as good as square but better than bad spirals
Tactical angle grinding
Easy outs and a drill. You can also try a hammer and chisel with a torch to heat it up.
iam replacing an old computer motherboard's capacitors and a guy on PrepHole told me that i have to make sure that the capacitance is the same but the voltage could be higher.
i just want to make sure
That's correct in general. There are some cases where a larger capacitor can help, but only if you know what you are doing. A higher voltage rating is always ok.
I thought you can go over on both voltage AND capacitance. The issue is just that they start to get large and it makes it hard to fit.
What's a powered saw with an emphasis on safety?
The house I purchased doesn't have a floor in the attic, aside from a couple of big plywood sheets (I'm guessing half an inch thick?). However, one of these sheets is too big; a corner of it is resting on top of a hardline air vent, denting it pretty deeply, but the other edge of the sheet is pressed against a chimney and can't move any further. There's no room to move the sheet elsewhere, much less get it out of the attic, so there's no option but to cut it shorter where it currently is. There's not much room to work with, the only footing is the beams that run from the front of the house to the back, and it's not like there's a table up there I could set the sheet on, so it's going to be an awkward, precariously-balanced operation.
I don't own any powered saws like jigsaws or band saws, so I'm looking to get one that'll allow me to do the above work while minimizing the chances that I'm going to cut myself or the underlying beams or anything else I don't intend on cutting. I'm willing to pay extra for any safety features that could help me in that regard. Does anyone have any suggestions?
Honestly, a jigsaw would work just fine
Bring a couple of 2x4s up there and stick them between the joists and the plywood propping it up, and then just zip through the with jigsaw
Dont overthink it, stay on top with both hands above the wood at all times and youll be fine.
I wonder, might there be a jigsaw with an adjustable 'depth'? As in, a jigsaw I could set so that the blade barely penetrated down far enough to get through the wood, so it's less likely to cut through anything behind it.
Circular saws have adjustable depth.
Stock option? No. You can cut the blade down with bolt cutters but with a 3/4"-1" stroke length you'll not be able to cut much off. Whatever you're trying to do I'd guess a jigsaw isn't the right answer.
No, you need the stroke to cut
Without the full stroke blades would get trashed and it wouldn’t cut for shit
Any suggestions for software for house interior designing?
I just need something that can draw a house plan and 3D render it (with editable textures hopefully), so that I can visualize ideas before I frick myself over.
isnt that what sketchup was made to do?
need help unscrewing this fricker so I can replace the gasket inside to stop the drip. It is on solid; what should i try to do? Hot water, wd40? I also do not want to use channel locks because it will scratch the metal, is there a trcik I can do with the channel locks to prevent scratches?
You can wrap a towel around it then channel locks but usually if the channel locks bite it scratches the surface. You got a welder? I'd weld some rods to the outside of a socket and make a custom tool for that nut.
When you do take it out blow air into one side at a low pressure and put a cup under the other side to catch any compressor oil that is in the oil core so you know how much to replace.
You should also think about replacing the dryer and the schrader valves in the service ports since opening the dryer to atmo is probably going to kill it and the valves are common leak points in older systems.
Reducing actuators is possible if you're willing to give up yaw.
Remove it and solder any other similar sized spring in its place. Wad of foil will give intermittent contact as the batteries will over-compress it.
>Reducing actuators is possible if you're willing to give up yaw.
How so?
By eliminating yaw you only require two actuators to pitch and roll the platform. If you eliminate height and side to side motion you can get pitch roll and yaw with only 3 rams. pic related.
Oh, okay, now I get what you meant. Thanks, but I think I might need the yaw.
I just tried putting a quarter between the spring and the batteries and it's working pretty well so far. Is there any chance that this will kill me somehow or is it safe enough
Nah, you should be fine unless you somehow really need a flashlight and quarter at the same time.
Story of my fricking life
Is this on the positive side or the negative side? If on the negative side there's no issue. If the positive side there's a chance of the quarter touching the sidewall and grounding out the batteries which would cause them to heat up and probably leak.
It's on the positive side. I guess I'll take my chances because honestly I'd rather just replace the flashlight then put any amount of effort into fixing it
Wrap tape around the outer edge of the coin so it can't short.
Any tips for replacing the evap core in a car (Subaru Legacy)?
Got quoted two grand for a replacement, but my car is barely worth that much as is.
I've watched a few videos on how to do it myself, but I'd happily take any advice.
Right now I plan on loaning a manifold+vac pump kit from autozone.
I have one of pic related and I want to turn it into a dumbbell. What should I use to fill it for higher weight, rocks or sand + water?
Buy a bag of concrete mix and fill it with concrete.
I'm a thirdie I don't wanna use money
Ok then I would say that sand would be better than rocks because rocks would leave empty space between them
Thanks
I've tried sand and rocks with something similar, and one of the problems is that the handle might not be able to take the weight. The rocks could be sharp enough to cut the inside from moving around too much, creating a leak. If that bottle is made to hold water, your best bet is water. And it's easier since you only need to fill it in the sink. Use it like that for a while, and if you really want, try adding sand over time, since if it's heavier it'll displace the water on its own.
I'm planning on making a Stewart Platform for a project, but I don't need or want to move the platform up and down. I could connect both of the platforms with ball and socket joints to a solid rod in the middle and it'd have the same range of motion I'm looking for. Is there a way to reduce the number of actuators while retaining that same range of motion?
The spring that touches the batteries in my flashlight is all fricked and doesn't get a good connection. Is there anything I can do besides patiently bending it back to shape with pliers? Can I just throw a wad of foil in between the springs and the batteries or something? Batteries are D cell
Lol I just unscrewed the flashlight again and it smelled like burning so I took the quarter out
I feel stupid for not being able to figure this but: I have an extension cable like pic related. If I plug one end into the other and, then cut the cable halfway, does the green wire still connect to the green wire (etc)? Or does it mirror the pins between the male and female connector
Download a pinout image and all will be answered.
Ok I did, and with your answer I guess the answer is yes because the pin outs for male and female are always the same? So a non-extension cable with 2 male ends would be mirrored but an extension cable wouldn’t?
My pic rel tap is leaking. How to fix?
Forgot pic
>posts a picture so dark nobody can make heads or tails what’s leaking on the tap
Leaking as in water keeps dripping after closing the tap.
From where? The handle or the nozzle?
Nozzle.
Please recommend a good stud finder that actually fricking works. Must detect electrical wiring too.
God I fricking hate American match stick houses and having to go insane with near-guesswork every time I need to hang anything bigger on the wall.
Just knock on the wall and see if you can find it. All stud finders suck balls from what I can tell, I know mine sucks.
Rare earth magnets. They will find every screw in the stud, wall and ceiling. Get some strong enough, they'll practically jump out of your hand.
Finding electrical is easy, if you aren't lazy and look at how they're laid out for code.
Do these not work with plastic pipes? I tried replacing my pop-up tub stopper and I can't get this set to block the water.
grind a ring around it and add a rubber O ring it will be mint you can do it with a bastard file
Is there anything I can put on a window to reduce how much radiant heat comes in from the sun? My central AC sucks ass and I have to leave it running nonstop starting at 10am just to keep my place at 78f. I have one of those AC on wheel units so I can just close a door and cool a single room but even that really starts to struggle in the afternoon.
Reflective stuff isn't an option, I have a lot of neighbors very close and I'm not gunna be a dick and blind them from 4pm to 9pm
Where do you buy stainless steel outlet boxes like you see in a kitchen or lab? I'm trying to use one as a project box for electronics.
https://www.google.com/search?q=stainless+steel+outlet+junction+box&sxsrf=ALiCzsZph3liZvWBQoq1qV3oYUzx5x1F_w%3A1657155093319&ei=FS7GYuH_EouqwbkPmd6lwAs&ved=0ahUKEwih3rLlx-X4AhULVTABHRlvCbgQ4dUDCA4&uact=5&oq=stainless+steel+outlet+junction+box&gs_lcp=Cgdnd3Mtd2l6EAMyBQgAEKIEOgcIABBHELADOg0ILhDHARDRAxCwAxBDOgoIABDkAhCwAxgBOgQIIxAnOgoIABCABBCHAhAUOgYIABAeEAc6BQgAEIYDOgQIIRAKSgUIPBIBMUoECEEYAEoECEYYAVD-EFj0HWCEH2gBcAF4AIABigGIAdgGkgEDMC43mAEAoAEByAEOwAEB2gEGCAEQARgJ&sclient=gws-wiz
I looked up the same thing. Also you should delete everything after the "&"
>doxxing yourself by leaving the referral in the link
topkek
DIY moron here, what's the best way to repair this fiberglass fireplace? The guy I bought it off of didn't cover it over winter so the ice has fricked it up.
I'm trying to disassamble my shitty flatpack furniture so I can move to a new apartment, and I realized that I don't have the tool to remove the little hex nuts that are holding my box spring together.
What the frick is this little wrench thing called? How do I get another one?
I don’t know go ask Allen
Not the allen key dumbass, the wrench type thing that fits around bolts.
There’s this really great movie called Shaft you should watch
touch grass
just get a small adjustable wrench or pliers
duly noted
If you absolutely need a flat one, they are called "thin wrench". For example, adjusting our fridge legs you really need a thin fricking wrench to get in there.
When searching "solar panel reflectors" all of the results are people testing them in the midday sun under cloudless skies and not getting any results because the panels just overheat. Obviously the whole point of reflectors would be to use them when the sun isn't as strong to make up for that fact. Am I using the wrong search terms, or is there just not that much info out there on this?
I have several of these power washer extensions. I want a mount that they “clip” to. What would you call this, so I can buy one? I’m not talking about attaching the end to something, but like a gun rack that I could snap 3 of these into. And attach this to my power washer to keep all this shit together.
You could make one up by using those power washer quick connectors and mounting them on a board with U-bolts.
that was my first though, but basically turns the power washer into a porcupine, with these extensions just waiting to catch on something and get torn off. also they will wobble and that will bug the shit out of me.
I'm going to try some tubing clamps, and see how well that works.
Redpill me on faucet mounted water filters. Are they worth it? Brands to prefer/avoid?
In a rental so can't do anything too fricky.
Stop spending money on frivolous shit like a water filter and save up for a down payment on a house you cuck
My cheap projector has screen burn. The company won't replace the part. Can someone please point me in the right direction for info on how to replace the polarized film?
How do I power this laser?
I'm building a cnc laser with a RaspberryPi and I'm stuck on the last step powering it and I can't find the datasheet on this model anywhere.
It looks like just 12V 9,96A but there is a 3rd wire that looks like it might be the trigger, but what voltage does it want? and how many Ma max?
Yellow is the PWM wire which is usually either +5V or +12V compared to black (many manufacturers don’t specify for some reason). But shouldn’t you get a cnc board with laser driver on board? Would make things a lot easier
Yes it would be easier but I already have a few hundred hours in writing custom software for my machine in python(not building a normal 3axis).
Does anyone have a modelnumber or something so I can track down the datasheet on this type of chinese laser?
Even the seller on aliexpress doesn't have it.
Upon second glance I’m 90% sure it’s an oxlaser (clone, or whatever the real manufacterer is that also builds the things marketed as oxlaser) and according to the internet they come with this piece of paper that says 5V <15khz pwm
Thank you it looks indeed like a oxlaser clone.
Yes, I've worked for a year at a company that builds all kinds of laser we had more scary ones(4KW IR was the strongest).
But even this 50Euro small laser is really scary I calculated it 0.00255sec of looking directly in the beam and you're blind for life, The thought that this compact laser can be easily made handheld and portable is also really scary if someone had bad intentions.
> The thought that this compact laser can be easily made handheld and portable is also really scary if someone had bad intentions.
Does it really have a lot of energy far away from the focal point? If you shine it someone from a few meters away it wouldn’t shine that much right, as the focal distance is like 20mm. I don’t know that much about lasers. It has 10W output power btw, not 80W, but you probably figured that.
>it wouldn’t shine that much right
The energy is still there but the energy density will decrease as the beam expands.
I did the calculation with 450Nm 10W 1,5Mrad 1Vcf and that comes to 149,1Meters where slight heal-able damage will occur but no lasting damage because the reaction time of the eye's closing is 250ms, and at 471,3Meters the power is so low you can look safely into it without eye protection for a max of 100sec.
So be careful kids, lasers are cool complicated and dangerous.
>The thought that this compact laser can be easily made handheld and portable is also really scary if someone had bad intentions.
There's a lad on PrepHole you should meet.
Do you mean the anti-muslim beam guy? If not tell me more.
There's an American on PrepHole who carried a 40w CNC laser made into a pistol until he could get his handgun license.
That sounds like such a terrible idea, isn't blinding someone for life so much worse than wounding them? but idk anything can happen in america
your going to blind yourself for life
invest is good laser goggles before you get the laser
dont cheap out if you like seeing things that laser power is near instant blind
I need some kind of little bracket or arm that stops this dishwaster waste hose from bending over on itself. What would that be called?
look for anti kink or strain relief, something like that
I have a drain line from a washing machine that pulled apart deep in an actual drain pipe and idk the name of an internal grabber tool majigger to buy to get the fricker out
I've just bought some drill bits to drill some holes in a 50 gallon drum. I've only just realised that they're more the gold/brass kind you use for wood and not the blacker kind you would use for metal. It says that they're multipurpose and can be used for (soft) metals as well as wood, plastic etc,, but the title of the item specifically states "metal hole cutter". Have I fricked myself here bros? The only other thing it says is "titanium nitride coat".
As long as they do the job I don't really mind because it's not like I'll be using them all the time. But I know using wood bits on metal blunts them really quickly, and I'd prefer to avoid that in case I need them for the future.
dont drill into drum used for petroleum products
It wasn't. It's not a real 50 gallon drum it's slightly smaller, but it didn't have petroleum products in it. It was used for a binding agent you use in metal manufacturing or something. Not flammable, not reactive to anything except water (but you need a lot of it and a lot of water), and isn't corrosive. It's nice and safe.
I appreciate your concern though.
Shhh, don't interrupt his entry for the Darwin Awards. I mean, he's dumb enough to think there are gold drill bits. We might have a contender here.
Post an actual picture
There ARE different specific drill bits made for specific purposes.
The difference is in the point of the drill bit.
When talking about standard twist drills, generally there are 3 different types.
Brad point left (very sharp spurs), Masonry middle (very blunt, brazed carbide), and your standard general purpose twist drill on the right.
The brad point cuts wood easily because its very sharp, but is frail and will get damaged in metal.
The masonry but wont cut wood or steel without modifying it, only brick and concrete.
The general purpose drill will do wood, plastic, metal etc etc.
The coatings mean literally nothing to home users. It doesnt matter if its gold or black or shiny uncoated, they will perform exactly the same in your hand drill blowing through material. They barely even put a thin coating on and it wears off, 100% a gimmick for cheap bits.
(in an industrial setting, coatings are essential in CNC machines under very controlled environments using very expensive very thick coated drills but thats irrelevant here)
So if they say multipurpose and obviously are just general purpose drill points, they will work perfectly fine.
Also I should say the vast majority of drill bits you find on the shelf are just general purpose bits (and getting more common split points, which are the same geometry just with relief ground into them)
They are common because they work great in most materials.
Now when you get away from twist drills into hole cutters, its kind of the same thing.
The general purpose bi metal hole saw with finer teeth can cut sheet metal.
The spade bit and the forstner saw are far sharper and far pointier, and they will cut metal for a short period of time before getting destroyed.
They just eat through wood way nicer because of how sharp they are
Yeah it's only a cheap one, like I say I only need it for putting a few holes in so I didn't really need to buy anything expensive because it's unlikely I'll be using it again.
Pic related though. Thanks for your help, I've taken what you've said onboard.
I've used those hole saws before a few times, but only ever on wood and never on metal. I'm not even sure if I've ever drilled anything metal before. Only ever wood and glass (I have glass drill bits, even I'm not that moronic).
Yeah I should probably look into doing that too tbf, thanks. I know someone who used the exact same kind of barrel and he didn't seem to have any kind of issues when doing it. Although I don't know what kind of bit he used because I didn't have enough time to ask him.
>Pic related though.
lol
Those are unibits/step bits, which I somehow forgot to touch on.
They are made explicitly for sheet metal, and are the exact tool you need for popping holes in your drum so you are all good.
Youll be amazed at how quickly itll rip open a hole in sheet metal, even with the cheap ones.
As for those rotary burr bit things, they are shit and suck for everything.
>the exact tool you need for popping holes in your drum so you are all good
Outrageously based. When I first seen you say "lol" I thought I'd made a big frick up.
>As for those rotary burr bit things, they are shit and suck for everything
I'll keep that in mind. I don't really need them anyway they just came with it.
Thanks a lot PrepHole chad.
I'll stop shitting this thread up now.
>I'll stop shitting this thread up now.
at least you're willing to take advice, there are people who will ask a question then get all c**ty no matter what the answer for whatever reason.
i don't know why they bother to ask in the first place if they don't want to listen
Of all bits posted here only this pic is really suitable. Drills with flutes are a hazard in thin sheet metal as they get stuck easily. Drills with dull points take forever to get through and you’ll push a dent in the barrel which makes it more likely to get stuck. I usually take a hole punch and put some wood on the inside, goes a lot faster
learn how to sharpen bits, they are going to dull/break regardless of how you use them. what you got should work for a drum, i expect it is mild steel rather than hardened
use a hammer and punch to make the holes its easy you also wont explode
or the lazy way to make a fire barrel is to shoot it a few hundred times
I was going to do it that way originally (hammer and punch) but I'll be there all fricking day because the holes will be tiny and easy get clogged.
Like I say this won't blow up anyway, there was never anything like that inside of it. It's completely safe.
I installed vinyl plank flooring in my home by myself a bit ago, and recently came back from vacation and I noticed that some of the pieces are loose on the ends of the planks. I can push down with my finger and the end of the planks will move down slightly like they aren't completely locked in. This is a new problem and they were pretty well secured before.
Am I fricked or can this be fixed without replacing the entire units flooring ?
I left the A/C temperature slightly higher while I was gone if that matters, I read that these things can expand or contract.
Thanks
They acclimated and moved
Use a heat gun and a paint scraper to push it down but dont fricking melt it
What kind of floor do you think this is?
Wood
Well that doesn't really help me
Do you want species of wood or just general idea? I strongly suspect it's an engineered tongue and groove product. Basically MDF with a paper painted to look like wood.
That's much more helpful, thank you. So it probably isn't real wood?
So, I'll be a little more specific than the last anon, that's actually most likely LVT, or less likely, HDX flooring. About a year ago, I removed and laid 1200sqf of flooring, it's a total b***h. All of it. HDX is (was?) pretty much the toughest faux flooring you can get. It's used in very high traffic areas (think commercial) and is very very wear resistant. I chose LVT, which happened to be a good choice. I think I paid around 2200 for the entire house. Cutting it, and laying it (as well as the prep) is another job entirely. Real wood is (of course) excellent, and if you're in the position to buy real wood, you better be in the position to pay a professional to lay it. Laying sleepers, and cutting, finishing, and maintaining it is a job, moving a thousand + pounds of lumber around is another job, and sealing and maintaining the finish is another job. I took the LVT pill so the next person can either maintain it (leave it) or rip it up. It turned out very nice
Absolutely laminate flooring.
The floor is lava
Hi PrepHole, pic related is how the shitty 'eco-friendly' paint used in a fence looks like after a few years. The same paint was used for the top weatherboards, where the rain guttering is attached. Some look worse and a few a little better than the paint in the pic.
The guttering would need to be detached to scrape or blast the old paint off. The guttering would also need to be detached if the boards would be replaced but the new boards could be painted on level ground instead of a negative angle from a ladder.
What do you think would be the best course of action?
I hope you get the gist of my post, not a native english speaker.
if i cut a chrome finish wrench in half will the part that isnt chrome hold up or will it rust away eventually?
Is there a some sort of trick to easily mount PVC pipe? Im trying to make gravity drip water system in my garden, bought components from a gardening store. Some parts are fine (like T junction in pic) but some are a little to big (valve in pic), pipe wont snuggly fit in and will detach itself when pulled. I'm a literal wristlet to just focre it. Should i warm up the end of the pipe with the heatgun before mounting on problematic parts?
That T connector is only for hose, not pipe. Normally you glue the pipe with sockets and pvc glue. It’s definitely cheaper at the hardware store than at the garden store, I’d they have what you need.
Heat it up before you try to insert
Go the Grey sleeves on the valve come off?
I'd expect them to come off and slide down the pipe, then push the pipe over some rib I can't see right now. Then push the sleeve back and turn over the threads, where it will squeeze the pipe over the rib
I accidentally pulled off one of the nickel tabs on an old iPhone battery I was repurposing. Does anyone know if there’s a way to attach a new lead or do I have to shitcan it?
Ask in /rcg they are the lipo experts
My floor fan is too fast on the lowest setting. How can I make it slower?
What to do with~40 gallons of ashes from a burn barrel? I don't want to compost it because I burn nasty shit sometimes, I was thinking it wouldn't be too bad if I just spread it around my yard?
dump it in the back corner of your yard give it time and the rain will melt it all away
why not just spread it around the yard then? should melt away even faster then aye? i just won't put it near anything i'll eat
if you go this route you might as well dump it into a ditch.
run water through it and see if you can drip lye out of it, make your own soap from your trash ashes
do you have regular trash collection? just throw it in your trash about 15gal at a time
Just throw it out in the trash IMO.
Can i replace smd capacitors with thru hole ones?
is there a good way to identify types of steel? I have some steel rods that i am trying to identify but i dont know much besides inner/outer color, and weight/dimensions. I dont have a grinding wheel to spark it. could a welding shop identify it for sure or is there a way to figure it out at home
I moved into an old house recently and there's this weird power outlet and I couldn't google to find out what kind it is. For reference I'm American and the house was built in 1900 so if any electricians could save me the cost of buying a multimeter that would be great.
its a 220w outlet
>there's this weird power outlet
L14-30R: Locking NEMA 14 30 A split phase receptacle.
Ok is there an adapter to convert it for usual American devices?
you make a suicide cord and connect it to a generator when the power goes out
Yeah, but usual American devices are 15 or 20 A. It would be a bit dangerous to hang those off a 30 A breaker.
No. Get a proper device designed to be plugged into it. Like a lathe.
When should you drill into a stud?
For instance, lets say I buy a bookshelf from Ikea and want to secure it to my wall. Do I drill into the stud or avoid it?
avoid drywall stonk and pipes live in the studs
Wait so I'm a little confused, if pipes live in the studs why would I want to avoid drywall? Wouldn't I want to not drill into a stud if the important bits are in there?
you going to trust your drywall to secure your bookshelf?
I suppose not, I'm just scared. Drilling could damage the stud and I'm just never sure if it's dangerous to do so.
it will be fine in drywall use the wing bolts dont drill into the studs they run wires and pipes inside them for protection
SOMEONE JUST GIVE ME A FRICKING STRAIGHT ANSWER AAAAA
This
I always anchor heavier stuff like TV mounts into studs. But if you want to go into the drywall, get good anchors and try to use a handful of them and they should hold quite a bit of weight. You’re not going to bring down the house with a couple screws into studs.
Go into the studs, it’s the best way. Drywall is shit at holding anything that is somewhat heavy.
not if he has wood studs, wires and pipes sometimes go through them, but they aren't hidden inside.
if you're just running a screw or driving in a nail you won't affect the strength in any meaningful way, if there are wires or pipes going through a stud there should be a nail plate to stop damaging the wire or pipe.
Do baths need drains? Can’t I just bucket the water to and from the creek when I fill up and empty my both?
I have pic-related, and while it holds everything I use at work (ranging from big stuff like 10" channellocks to smaller stuff like pencils), it doesn't last long on a jobsite at all. I've tried searching online for other options, but none of them seem to have the same kind of deep pocket to hold bigger-sized hand tools.
What kind of tool belt pouches would you recommend?
Instead of a pouch with full pockets, why not like leather tool holders for your belt?
So I found a combo square that was rusted as shit at a garage sale, and I soaked it in krud cutter like I do with most shitty condition tools.
But unlike most times it came out moron pitted and it was still reacting well after rust was gone, so I'm sure I left it in way too long. I just wanted to know if that was the sole reason, or it was like the wrong kind of metal or something.
Probably high zinc content in the cast metal. I had that happen with two motorcycle carbs long ago after soaking in phosphoric acid as I didn't know they were not aluminum.
So should I just 100% avoid doing it to any starett tools or was that just a bad cast you think?
Also if should avoid, what about a like 10 min soak vs hours just to kill surface rust?
Is there a business/website where one can buy curved glass without doing a special order?
Can I use the overflow hole of the sink to attach the drain of washing machine?
Probably not easily, I'm not sure how you'd secure it to the porcelain. If you're not going to plumb a drain properly for it, why not just hang it on the side of the sink and let it dump into the basin?
>I'm not sure how you'd secure it to the porcelain
The hose snug fit into the overflow hole
I'm worried if it could lead to being clogged or build up pressure in the drain hose.
I tried hanging it in the basin, but it would fall all the time, because the warm water make the plastic thing malleable and would not hold the drain.
I'm fine with attaching it to basin, if it can.
Any idea?
get a connector for a roll around dishwasher and a faucet to accept it, it will supply the water to your washer and discharge into the sink to drain
this would thread into the faucet if it has a changeable end
you would just need something like pic related to connect to it
how can i differentiate a wood drill bit from a metal drill bit.
will a wood drill bit be able to drill a hole through aluminum?
>how can i differentiate a wood drill bit from a metal drill bit.
Geometry
>will a wood drill bit be able to drill a hole through aluminum?
Maybe, depending on the metal of the bit. You have to use lube, adjust your speed and pressure.
see
An ACTUAL wood specific bit wont cut aluminum without getting destroyed.
But the vast majority of twist you find out there are not wood specific bits, they are general purpose twist drills like the post explains.
If its a standard general purpose drill, itll do just that. General purposes in wood metal plastic
I just bought a house with a garage. I will be doing small-time wood and metalworking in addition to vehicle maintenance in the garage, and I live in a dusty area. Should I get a vacuum marketed for shop/garage use or stick with my old Sears canister vacuum?
If I get a "shop vacuum", is there a preferred brand e.g. shop-vac?
ShopVac brand is now owned by the chinks so its one redeeming factor of being USA made is gone.
The Craftsman vacs at Ace Hardware go on sale pretty routinely, and there is a Dewalt model at Costco thats really fricking nice.
But in reality, you cant go wrong with any of them.
Just find one thats a size you like, in a price range you want and get it.
Still I think the Steel bodied Stanleys (dewalt/porter cable/Craftsman/whoever else they own) are hard to beat
So for my shit job I drill a shitload holes in duct work, both round and square.
What is the absolute best bit I can get for drilling sheet metal basically?
I'm fricking tired of being on my ladder and having these shitty normal bits walking all over the place on the slick sheet and then having it spin for fricking ever before goin in.
I want the fastest, best, non walking cleanest ass hole I can get and have it actually last.
Can't you just use a center punch?
Elaborate I honestly don't know what you mean.
So those barely walk too? Every bit I've tried with that cone geometry seems to walk afaik.
If not I'll fricking order the size I need tonight, I'm at the I'm fricking beyond tired of screwing around just buy whatever does it the best stage.
I'm drilling 100s a holes a week straight overhead on the top of a 8'+ ladder cursing as the bit takes like fricking 30 seconds to go in. Honestly the worst is the part before it catches because it's just fricking spinning. I can make due with a shit hole because I can just clean it real fast, I just want the drilling part as easy as possible.
>Elaborate I honestly don't know what you mean.
A spring-loaded ("automatic") center punch used on thin sheet metal like that without any backing will make a big dent which would keep your bit from wandering.
that's something I've never thought of honestly, but it sounds great. I'll look into a like spring loaded gun or something.
Granted that's also another step every single time so if I can find a bit that just works well on it's own that would be great, guess it really depends on what I can find.
I'll keep that in mind as a backup / addition to a decent bit thanks
https://www.kbctools.ca/itemdetail?itemcode=1-067-024
so this right? the only size I will ever need is 3/8 so yah
Yeah that looks like it.
You could also try and find some like 90 degree spotting drill bits like pic related, which have a really deep pointy bit too. They are short and meant to be very stiff, and the pointed tip is the exact opposite of the split points, if you are having issues with those.
Looks like these are the only ones in stock, and being 2" may be a bit short for you.
https://www.kbctools.ca/itemdetail/1-087-024
of all the box store bits I've had (what I end up getting because Id buy them as needed on the road basically) dewalt pilot bits are the ones I've had by far the most success with, the "standard" bits make me want to kill myself as they spin for fricking 20 secs straight.
The pilot takes like, 2 seconds to punch, and the rest follows in like, maybe 3-5.
95% of the time I am drilling 22 or 24 gauge steel.
5% of the time I'm drilling 20 or 22 gauge steel that's got a 1" section of insulation sandwiched between.
that's it nothing else ever. It's a very very particular "target" I'm trying to hit with effectiveness so I'm ok getting really autistic with this.
Also I need to make some stupid cone or something to catch the sheet metal shavings because I'm tired of having them rain on me, it's just a nuisance.
Its a very small split point tip on a thick shaft. So you should have less deflection because of the thicker shaft and it should pop through the sheet metal faster with a thinner diameter tip giving you less chance of walking.
Some of the cheap step drills or the Dewalt Pilot Points just arent very sharp and the diameters are a lot bigger.
Viking makes very sharp high quality shit.
Its pretty much the only exotic geometry out there, everything else is just going to be more of the same. Some better or some worse, but its still a 135deg split point or an 118 deg drill.
I would say go for it and buy 1 or 2 hoping they work for you.
There isnt much else out there thats going to wildly vary.
>What is the absolute best bit I can get for drilling sheet metal basically?
You arent going to like their price, but they are the best bit for that application barre none.
Viking VortexPoints, also sold by MAC as HyperStep bits.
They are regular sized jobber drill bits, but have the geometry of a step drill on their tip.
If you can at all, why not use a hole punch?
One of the morons who live in my house ran the garbage disposal with what I suspect was a plastic fork/spoon in it. I picked out some pieces of it but the disposal is jammed, bad enough that it trips the reset immediately when you turn it on and I can't turn the manual drive without using enough force to unseat the whole disposal.
Is there anything I can do to get it running again? I would very much prefer not to have to pull the whole thing out and disassemble it. Presumably I could soften or dissolve the plastic fork/spoon pieces, I am thinking about pouring boiling water down it. Would drain cleaner eat up any seals or similar in the disposal?
>Is there anything I can do to get it running again?
Take it apart and get all the foreign material out.
>Take it apart and get all the foreign material out.
>I would very much prefer not to have to pull the whole thing out and disassemble it.
Does this look like asbestos insulation? It's in a mobile home that (I think) was built in 1976. I'm getting a ceiling repaired and the guy said it'd be fine to leave asbestos if it's sealed up. There was a layer of plastic holding the insulation and then the joists and ceiling tiles, so if it is asbestos, is that okay to leave or is it worth tearing up the rest of the house and replacing?
Found this inside a device I own that let out some magic smoke. They make up the bridge rectifier right after the transformer. They all measure fine with a multimeter (0.6 V in one direction, open circuit in the other). Could they be the couse of the magic smoke anyway? Should I replace them?
Forgot pic, but it doesn't matter, since I found out they were fricked in the meantime. I guess them measuring fine was because the PN junctions were still close enough together to work in some capacity, but not to work properly (the was no voltage on the output).
When removing them they just fell apart.
That's more powerful magic than any of us are qualified for, anon. Good luck.
should i desolder all the shit out of my $10 goodwill VHS? all the electronics are working, but it's some old weird thing and the idler is broken. all it can do is play for 3 seconds *exactly* and then eat the tape. i don't want to throw it away, i would feel bad about destroying something that works electronically that is no longer made, but i know it would probably be well outside my capabilities to fix.
what do
it's literally garbage, throw it away
ok, if it's garbage i'll harvest the shit from it. you have no idea how tight-fisted i am, if i paid $10 for a junk pos VHS i WILL get parts from it at bare minimum. even if it's just one or two capacitors and a switch, i swear to fricking god i am going to get my money's worth
Become an electronic engineer and figure out how to turn. It into a diy shitty DAT tape backup.
Thennhyperspeed it with vacuum column flows
no, that's a little bit too much. but i would really like to record my pepe folder onto VHS someday, i hear the capacity is approximately 2gb when converted to digital, i bet with some work you could use the video and audio tracks in concert to make a hi-lo system like they had for audio cassettes. that would be dope
All you'd want the audio track for is positioning.
update: i have already discovered some zeners, much needed regular diodes, a metric frickton of capacitors and a bunch of other cool looking shit i'll have to google. this is worth the $10 already
I got a reusable fly trap completely filled. They’ve been able to rest on the conglomerate fly island and now maggots are eating the corpses on the bottom. Obviously I have to replace this but I can’t open it without a thousand flies escaping.
How can I kill them all before opening? I don’t want to microwave it, not sure what fumes the attractant and flies would create.
tape the vent shut and suffocate them, or fill it with water and drown them
Alright the maggots can live underwater apparently but maybe some bleach will destroy them.
worth a shot
I've heard of putting bedbug infested clothing in garbage bags and leaving them in a hot car all day, cooking the bugs.
How mucho of a moronic idea is to use contact paper over the countertop of the kitchen? I hate how the kitchena looks now, and I want it to look a bit better in the mean time while I get the money to change it all.
Also heard that using epoxy over contact will make it last longer, but still unsure about how ugly or moronic will look.
Trailer parks meant for retirees do this
It all depends on how good you apply the paper
No seams its probably fine, but it does damage easily
pretty good haul from the vcr so far. idk what i'm gonna do with that massive capacitor, but it will probably be something stupid
man, it's been forever since you could get a proper vintage dead moth
nah that's new production
how's the fidelity hold up to the originals?
just fine
still get all the pops and fuzz as the originals?
really gives the picture a wonderful feel
Hey everyone, got drunk and angry one night and snapped the umbrella in my parents pool. It has an umbrella sized hole to slide it into place and there is still a fair chunk of wood. About an inch and a half in diameter. It seems that the wood soaked up the water and is waterlogged. I tried to yank it out to no avail. I’m thinking of getting a chisel and just see if I can break it up and take it out piece by piece. Not sure how much wood is in the hole or how deep it goes. The wood sits about a feet deep in the water as well.
There's nothing around the base that's securing it, just a slip fit and gravity?
Get a couple 2x4's, lash or bolt them together at one end. Lash them to the post that's stuck in the pool, as close to the tied end as possible while it can rest on the pool floor while still having the other ends be at a comfortable height. Then use the 2nd class lever you just built to pull the post out.
So long as it's not bolted to anything or formed into the concrete, it should slide out.
Pic rel is my tap closed. As you can see water keeps dripping from the nozzle even when it's closed. Should call a plumber and replace it, or can I fix it myself? I wanted to see if I can do some diy
That's with it closed? Time to replace that sucker; the valve is probably corroded.
Just buy a new faucet. They're pretty easy to put in.
bad seats and springs
moron here, how dumb is it for me to disassemble and move this gazebo when I have next to no skills or experience with something like this?
I understand it should be straightforward taking it apart with a drill but I need to emphasize that yes I can assemble Ikea furniture but assume I'm one step above that level of idiot.
I've got a little Toyota truck with a 6' bed too. The seller cannot explain to me whether the roof can be disassembled or if it will be big 10' segments. I can't find a manual in this product.
https://www.westviewmfg.com/hot-tub-enclosures/gazebos/zentos/zento-mocha-brown/ this seems to match although obviously it's a little different. They're selling it for $100 and clearly just want it gone. Is this a moron level project or am I going to cause more problems trying to remove it and transport it? I'm trying to get a friend or two to help that knows more than me but that's no guarantee. Thanks for any advice.
Take photos, put masking tape around the parts you disassemble and take photos of where they go.
The thing you linked is nothing like this one. Yours is wood, the one you linked is plastic. They will assemble completely differently. I’d be worried yours is nailed together. You can still. Real it down but it’s more work.
Take photos always solid advice. That's just the closest product I could find on the internet since the owners have no idea what it is. I'm going to take a look at it when I get the chance and hopefully get a better idea. Thanks
Hello everybody, I am moronic?
moronic AND queer
I've got a dead tree which fell over the fence from my neighbor's yard into mine (it grew that way and is now dead). It's maybe 5" in diameter, some kind of hardwood. Will I have good luck trying to hack this thing apart with a "normal" handsaw or will the twisty/knotty nature of this stupid fricking tree catch up all the teeth and constantly get it stuck?
Alternatively I could try to chop it up with a hatchet. I own neither of these tools so I'm trying to buy the correct one.
how can i stencil white text on canvas in a way that won't look shit
Paint the canvas black first?
sorry, i was vague. i mean what sort of paint/application technique should i use. it's already dark.
Spray paint and practice a bunch first.
>stencil
You answered your own question. Spray paint, or any kind of applicator will work if you’re careful.
I'm going to be carpeting a room, should I put something between the carpet and the floor? The room has a solid wood floor that used to be covered in cheap vinyl flooring. Unfortunately it's not possible to just finish the wood to be used as flooring with no cover(the gaps between planks are pretty big, it's like semi-raw tongue and groove boards, not hardwood flooring).
In my country wall to wall carpeting isn't really common in residential anymore and when it's done usually it's directly on the floor, but from googling around I found some material that's meant to optionally go under the carpet, mostly for sound insulation. It's not expensive but I don't think I really need it. Would appreciate any advice from people from places where carpeting is commonly done.
Carpet padding goes underneath it. YouTube videos will walk you through the whole thing
I want to build a multigenerational home that can hopefully stay in my family for generations with minimal maintenance or trouble; the idea being that money ain't an issue as long as it lasts as long as possible. I live in southern Canada (basically Montana esque climate and weather). I am thinking of going with solid concrete (prefab panels if possible, poured on site if not), stainless steel roof (with good overhang) and stainless steel plumbing, and heating in the form of a masonry heater/rocket stove. I know there's too many details to get into on PrepHole of all places but in terms of materials do my choices seem good or is there a better option I'm not considering. Again, only thing that matters is durability and long term maintenance
That deserves its own thread. Include a blueprint or intended general layout as pic.
is there ANY way I can do flooring without getting raped in the wallet?
I'm about to move to a new place, and the floor is just bare cement, so I gotta pay for flooring
vinyl is cheaper than laminate, but they both need underflooring, and the neither option is actually cheap for me
am I missing something or doing it wrong? need about 70 square meters of flooring
western europe
I'm way out of my depth.
I'm an informatics engineer, and I know a few things about eletrics because of having set up a few UPS and datacenters, and at my current job I'm setting up a network for a factory. This time, I'm tangentially involved in the electric supply. I usually set it up with a radial circuit, but they want to do a ring circuit. Not any ring circuit, but a ring circuit with multiple supplies in different points of the premises. So far trying to google about it I find either articles about smol 32A home circuits or MV circuits. How much of a world of hurt am I in? Is there any resource I can read regarding that?
I hung a 84 inch curtain rod the other day across my window frame. The two end brackets are screwed into studs (two screws each) but the third (middle) bracket is only screwed in with one screw and also without an anchor (no stud behind the wall either, just didn’t feel like doing an anchor). I tried doing the second screw but the drill bit but just deflected off some metal that’s like one and a half inches above the window frame and idk what the frick it is. So basically what I’m asking is should the middle bracket hold fine? There’s three sets of curtains on the rod so it’s only about 20 pounds on the rod.
Car savants, I could use your help.
My shitbox 2014 Honda Fit has developed a squeal that's driving me nuts. I falsely diagnosed a serpentine/drive belt, replaced that, still squeaks. It happens in idle when the fans are turned on.
I cleaned out the blower motor and housing. The blower motor is solid and has no play. The following video shows the squeak still occurs with the blower motor completely disconnected:
https://streamable.com/sopkav
I've stuck my face as close as I safely can to the running motor and I struggle to pinpoint the issue.
Any ideas as to what's squeaking very welcome, thanks for reading my blog
Theres a board for this, PrepHole
Damn, I might be too stupid to post my stupid question. Whoops
In all my attempts at troubleshooting, I might not have thought to switch off the AC. I appreciate the suggestion, I'll look into it
Does it seem tied to the AC? You could check the radiator and compressor fan in the front. Mine seem to fail every few years in my Honda Element. Just replaced one last week.
Can anyone ID what this sedament shit that keeps building up in my air compressor water trap? I installed an aftercooler using a basic radiator, copper tubing, and this water trap (This water trap is in-between the two stage compressor and the tank). It is like a wax or some shit, but I have no idea where it's coming from.
Cum. Somebody's been wanking into your compressor.
Is it greasy? I don't know shit but could be some pretty reasonable amount of oil in your air from the compressor you can't really notice but it's condensing out with the water or something.
Yeah, it's kind of similar to animal fat where it'll melt down if you rub in between your fingers. At first I thought it was some dessicant gel/beads or something, but after cleaning the bowl out and running the compressor this stuff starts accumulating again. I'm also wondering if it's oil from the radiator I installed to cool the air down.
sometimes there is uv reactive dye in the system to help chasing leaks, if you can get a uv light source it could give you a lead. assuming there is dye present to begin with
Can a run a 6v tractor on a 12v battery? Got an old farmall cub and don't want to convert to 12v but also can't find a 6v for it.
You'll frick the motor up
order one from your local parts store, or convert to 12 volt. do it right anon, you don't want to be chasing issues due to your frickery
I had a carpenter install a new window. Next to it it appears that there's a gap in the siding. Is this alright or does something need to be done?
By the way, the guys that enter these threads to answer questions are saints
Time to shove some caulk in there
Does it have to be some kind of exterior caulk?
Yes, and the caulk will become interior once it's inside the crack, obviously
>asking about carbon fiber
>carbon is hexagon shaped
>just like the hexagon on top of the planet saturn
>OP's pic looks like the sigil of saturn ( pic related)
Go away you satanist piece of shit, stop talking to my subconscious.
I HATE THE DEMIURGE. I HATE THE DEMIURGE. I HATE THE DEMIURGE. I HATE THE DEMIURGE.
What's best reading on how to fix your house/flat in EU or to build garden house.
Am I moronic for wanting linoleum floors rather than the newer vinyl plank ones? I’m schizo about walking on the plastic fume modern planks and it absorbing into my bare feet. Are there any linoleum floors that look good? It is made out of seeds and such so not bad for me
Nevermind I am considering cork floors now
anyone here with experience with garden irrigation?
Simplified - I have a ~3m wide garden around my ground level apartment, roughly 1/4 of a circle.
I need a system which can water the grass without making the windows wet, which the twisting sprinkler does, also throws almost up to the 2nd floor neighbors. In the middle there are raised bed with my wife's tomatoes which also should not get wet. I think sprinklers are out of the question, they will wet everything. Was thinking of laying PVC pipe and then drilling holes aimed inwards, but that would also be tricky to aim and control the flow strength.
Here's a pretty unscientific drawing. On the outer edge there are laurel bushes, would be nice if they too can get some water at the same time. I will soon get a dual-channel irrigation controller thinigie with drip hose for the flowers and tomatoes, but am clueless about how to tackle the rest.
all input appreciated, thanks!