Stupid Questions Bread!
My stupid question of the day, are these Safe-T-Switches pretty universal? I have a standard 4 wire low voltage thermostat with a Nest, any issues that would pop up?
SQTDDTOT Plus+
Stupid Questions Bread!
My stupid question of the day, are these Safe-T-Switches pretty universal? I have a standard 4 wire low voltage thermostat with a Nest, any issues that would pop up?
Looks simple enough.
The biggest concern I have is that the last 2 houses I lived in down here had these switches. And when I got this house, the old owner had a litterbox under the condensate drain outlet like she must have had a problem with it overflowing. So why would they never have installed a safety switch if they had issues with the thing backing up?
https://www.littlegiant.com/products/condensate-removal-pumps/condensate-overflow-safety-switch2/condensate-overflow-safety-switch/
This would be probably more safe.
>So why would they never have installed a safety switch if they had issues with the thing backing up?
Sometimes the condensate only leaks once or twice a year under certain conditions and homeowners are okay with that. Other times it dumps everywhere and they still don’t care to do anything. IMO a switch is necessary if a condensate blockage will cause property damage.
I am looking into buy my first power supply to find shorts so i decided to start with something cheap.
I decided to buy pic related (https://aliexpress.com/item/1005005429587089.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.0.0.5c79489ea3N9Oe) but i have some questions.
As far as i understand i can just plug in a old 24v@5A laptop charger to it and i should be able to get 20v@5A right?
Why people recommend Linear PSUs over Switching PSUs to find shorts? does it matter?
That looks a lot like the little $10-$15 boards they sell on Amazon. You should be fine with that laptop charger, although you’re not going to get anywhere close to the 360W output.
Not sure how that one is set up, but confirm the output voltages with a meter. Pic related varies a little depending on the input voltage, you may have a little pot screw where you can adjust it.
Only thing I heard about switching vs linear is the “noise”, I ended up spending like $10 or $20 more for a linear model when I got my 30V/10A model, but I still don’t know what it means. If you’re trying to find shorts, is it going to blow a fuse on that thing? I mostly use mine to charge random batteries and test shit and it has a circuit breaker just in case.
>I still don’t know what it means.
that goes without saying, being as how you're the village idiot and for some strange reason you are proud of that. In real life do you spend all day trying to convince everyone in sight that you're stupid, and if they forget you run up to them "hey, I'm the stupid guy you met yesterday, remember me?".
Literally an assclown.
Anybody who takes advice from PrepHole 100% deserves everything they get.
Noted. I would rather keep the thing clean tho.
This adapter on the right hand side looks like it goes from 1” down to 3/4”…. i’m assuming I use PVC cement to glue the adapter in place? Odd it’s not all 3/4”.
What kind of stuff should one have for edc?
.45 acp
I'm making a big desk because I want one and I hate the crappy table I got from goodwill and don't like it when my knees hit it.
Gonna get a butcher block countertop from home depot or something.
For an ~8x2 foot desk, Do I need additional supports on the legs.
Ideally I'd like to just put some pipe flanges on so I can remove the legs in the near future and it can be moved a little easier. It would be much easier to throw on 4 pipes and call it a day.
Specifically thinking of something like this.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/SteelTek-1-1-4-in-Silver-Galvanized-Steel-Structural-Pipe-Fitting-Floor-Flange/999930954
Depends on the weight of the table I guess. If it was me, I would make a bracket that recessed into the top of the table and bolt the flange to that, rather than try and use wood screws.
I think the simplest solution is to just weld a single diagonal brace between the back legs and let the front legs be free standing. Just don't drag the thing and it should be fine.
I made this build out of a solid core door.
2.5' x 6.5'
I only have cross beams between between the front and back legs like pic related, and have been using it for 3 years without any issues. I used wood screws in the flanges and they work fine. I was going to do a back cross bar, but got the pipe cut to the wrong length and was too lazy to bring it back to home depot and get it re-cut.
The desk sways left to right with little effort because of this, but I don't notice it often enough for it to bother me at all.
Bolts like the other guy suggested will get you more longevity out of the table.
This is the hinge on a cabinet door. Over time the screws loosened up and fell out. I used my drill to put them back in. A week later they fell out again. What do? I rent this place and I don't tell the landlord about broken shit so my rent wont go up
Fill the holes with epoxy or and predrill
Or 1:1 sawdust and CA clue
Or fill hard glue caulk or whatever it’s called, the hardware store probably has a solution
Hammer down into subfloor
As a landlord I actually want my rentee to tell me these things so I can fix it proper
You can also use cheak chopsticks. Push them into the holes until snug (sometimes I have to use 2 or 3) break/cut them off flush. Screw away.
Fill the hole with baking soda and superglue. Then put the screw back in. There are tons of YouTube videos discussing this exact scenario.
Tell the landlord so they can fix it. This is a cheap fix and totally common. You aren't responsible for the age of the cabinetry, which is apparent by the appearance of the hinge. It would be different if you had busted the cabinet door because you were using it for a pull-up bar.
Ripped out old carpeting from a prior owner, got 98% of the nail and staples out. Some were too old and broke, leaving little metal nubs I can’t get out (or grip) with the pliers. What do?
Buy a hole punch and drive them deeper. Fill with wood filler.
I need something exactly like this. It’s cheap and I should probably just buy it. But I need a tool for things with pinholes. Door locks, electronics phones that require some objects to be inserted. Is this suitable or is there something else with different gauges of rod/wire
That’s the closest thing I have ever seen unless you get a special lockpick tool or you want to use hex keys.
If the glue + sawdust anon suggested doesn’t work, you could always get some fatter stubby screws. Or frickin JB Weld the hinge to the cabinet if you really want to half ass it.
Torch tip cleaners are small round files. Just buy the thing and try it out. They don't cost enough to matter.
I need to replace the seal on my refrigerator. The OEM seal is not available, am I able to use just any seal from Amazon? I simply peel off the previous seal and tape the new one in?
https://www.partselect.ca/Models/GTR12BSXABS/
https://www.amazon.ca/General-Electric-WD08X10016-Door-Gasket/dp/B00ECV4JLO/ref=sr_1_13
my daughter lost a gold charm from her bracelet.
It is gold and is a silhouette (flat, no embossing) of a cupid with a bow.
I really hope it turns up, but in the event that it does not, do you know of any place where I might find something close that is gold?
Dumb question but if I just buy furniture movers and put them under my desk, dresser, and bookcase and leave them there it would double both as a level with the added fact that I can push them around right?
Yes. I would. The earlier you make everything mobile the easier your life. Acquire hand trucks, tiedown straps etc too. I do.
I want to use 25mm aluminum tubing to build a small structure.
Metal joinings are expensive and I want to use PVC 3 and 4 way joins in between the aluminum pipes.
Aside from drilling and using a lock screen whare adhesives can I use to join aluminum and PVC rigidly?
Sharkbite
This is correct right?
Capacitor was replaced a few days ago and the AC worked a few times but stopped.
I noticed a burn off wire on the capacitor with what I presumed was the other end on the relay and replaced it (white wire with yellow connectors)
AC works now but I wanted a second opinion, I'm no HVAC tech
What the frick happened to the DIY ultralight aircraft hobby? Seems like it was a huge thing in the 80s but now you can hardly find anything about them. I can read about all these models like the Chotia Woodhopper and Gypsy that you could supposedly build for a couple grand with mostly parts you could find at Home Depot, but no modern pictures or video of people actually doing the builds. You'd think at least one dumbass youtuber would have tried this. I'm tempted to try the project but I would like a little more resources from people who have done it before since I have no experience with this kind of thing.
regulations, restrictions, deaths, fearmongering, and a couple other reasons
I don't know about the other stuff but regulations and restrictions are still pretty lax. As long as the plane's under a certain weight (250lbs or something like that) it's still pretty much the wild west for ultralights. No license or inspection needed
My friends dad died in an ultralight accident in the 90’s. His widow sued the private airstrip owner and won. Now no one can fly from there except a select group of his friends. That killed it in my area.
Tell your friend his mom is a dumb c**t. The world is now a worse place because of her greed.
I've got an AC question for any HVAC savvy people
I moved recently and the whole place is cooled by window units. No central cooling.
Two of the units are older and will blast the compressor nonstop if I set it right, I can get my bedroom down to 62f if I want.
The unit in the living room, however, refuses to do its fricking job.
It will run the compressor for about 5 minutes, then stop, just fan for like 15 minutes, then repeat.
It doesn't matter how hot it is, it never gets the temperature down because it's always fricking turning off.
How do I fix this? I want to get it to a "always be running unless you're about to melt" setting. It's older, analog dials, nothing digital I can see.
What do I check for and replace or tweak?
Afaik there is a self resetting circuit breaker in mechanical ACs that is primarily there to stop a locked up compressor from melting wires after a rapid cycle.
It might be failing and tripping during normal operation.
Any suggestions on what to look for? The radiator fins are remarkably straight and I didn't see any dust or gunk buildup anywhere.
I don't care if it raises my electric bill I want it to go below 80f in my living room
If nobody has ideas aside from the breaker tripping itself, are there any landlords around that could tell me the best way to request replacing it at my own expense?
I'd be happy to spend $300 for a new, better AC, but I don't know how to tell my landlord that. Feels like they'd instantly say no.
I am new to being a slum lord but I’d be happy to knock cost off the rent so I don’t need to do nuff’n. That’s the easiest way out. I will pay for your happiness because you give me free money.
Anyone knows how to make an rfid scanner be able to read stscked chips?
How do I remove this piece of wood? I can't get the nail out. Yes, I'm moronic.
is that little stub of 2x4 just toe-nailed to the boards under it? It doesn't run down and through?
Just hit it with a hammer or use a prybar to lever it up. You could also hit it with a chisel or ax on top center in order to split it into pieces.
Also, learn to use a cat's paw tool or nailpuller in order to deal with this kind of situation where you don't have such an easy way to just obliterate the wood around the nail
Use hammer end
My wife squirted into the ceiling fan again. She thinks it’s funny that she can reach it. When I get mad at her she snaps back at me “YOU MADE ME DO IT” then coyly smiles and farts cum out. This has turned into a nightmare. I need to get her pregnant again so she can’t get a good angle on the fan. There are stains on the walls and fan. Does anyone have any suggestions?
if you don't have one get a nail pry and in the future put nail/screw grease on it.
>nail /screw grease wtf?
Yeah I thought it was a fricking meme too but you have no idea how much easier it makes getting screws and nails out when you need them out. Also in the future if that was a temp. nail you can get a special kind of nail called a "temporary nail" called a duplex nail for an easier pull out in the future.
>a special kind of nail called a "temporary nail" called a duplex nail
a special kind of "temproary nail" called a duplex nail*
I just got back running gonna jump in the shower now.
Just cut it flush
If you really need it out, cut it flush below also and then pry off the part nailed sideways to the framing below and the remainder will just fall out
Where do you find a replacement for this kind of thing? It's a 50s or 60s reel mower tire
You Black person I googled reel mower tire and the 2nd suggestion was black vinyl tire
Are you stupid or just have downs
Show me. I can't find anything that has a similar internal groove and isn't for a toy
why are tradies unprofessional c**ts?
depends how much money they make, some tradies make good money but society still shits on them so a lot of them get chips on their shoulders about it. Unless your a fricking road tradie in Australia, apparently they have their own "roadie" culture and are pretty well respected for some reason, where in most other countries road tradies get shat on constantly.
I have a problem that seems un-googleable so you're my last bet PrepHole. My gas stove has this issue where if the oven is preheating the burners start to flameout from what seems like overpressure, but when the oven is cool, there's no pressure issue, and also when the oven is fully hot, there's no pressure issue. Has anyone come across something like that and what a solution might be?
I'm sorry Robert Murray-Smith for thinking you were crazy when I first watched your videos. Turns out you were smart and enthusiastic. I was wrong and it has made me a better person.
How do I waterproof MDF?
Google tells me to use moisture resistant paint or waterproof sealant. What should I use, or could I use both?
I replaced the cartridge of my faucet and a few hours later the water pressure went to nothing, what did I frick up? The guy at Home Depot told me this should be the correct replacement part but maybe it isn't? How do I fix this...
t. moronbro
So it was fine for awhile and then clogged after some use?
I would pull the cartridge again. My guess is either there was some old shit in the facuet from the last cartridge if it fell apart or you possibly damaged the new one going in and a bit of O-ring or something could’ve partially obstructed it?
Actually very little use lol, I checked it worked, washed some ancient dishes, let it be, and came back in a few hours
I took it out and checked the old cartridge just in case of incompatibility and got the same result. Looked at the new one and it didn't look like it was damaged, nor could I see anything inside at a glance. Should I take it apart to look at? I put it back in and have the same problem
Still sounds like something is jammed in there.
Also, does your faucet have one of those little aerator screens right at the nozzle? That could’ve gotten gunked up with bullshit after you opened everything up and disturbed the sediment and shit.
I checked the faucet head (it's one of those fancy kitchen sinks that has a hose at the end) and removed it and that did not improve the waterflow, so that leads me to believe the cartridge is the issue?
Should I take it apart to see if anything is stuck inside? For what it's worth I tried the old cartridge and it also had low water pressure.
Turn the angle drops off under the sink, and remove the supply lines. Supply lines are probly clogged.
If they’re not, make sure the angle stops are all the way on.
If that doesn’t fix it, replace the angle stops and try blowing out the line with the stop off.
If that doesn’t work scrap the faucet and put a new one in.
got it thanks, man this shit is getting more involved than I thought then
I’m with him. Those valves go bad over time and start to leak and/or get locked up and clogged. Tbqhwy, if they’re real old and you’re already under there troubleshooting stuff, I would replace them. They’re real susceptible to leaks and breakdown if they haven’t been touched in years and then you start dicking with them a bunch because you’re trying to change a cartridge. Worth the $10 in parts and 10min to swap them while you’re in there.
You could probably test it easily by opening the faucet up and rotating them. See if you get much change as you open and close them. Or take the cartridge out or take a line off and see if it’s super slow when you open a line up over a bucket. Only thing is I would expect either hot or cold to get fricked, not both of them. If you get like full pressure hot water and low pressure cold water, then you’re looking at the shutoff valve on the cold side.
I was able to do a quick check. I removed the cartridge and opened the valve stops whatever they're called. Water really only trickled out the handle side, is this a sign that things are clogged down there? As for hot and cold, I think they are both fricked, but one moreso than the other. I think in one direction I can't get any water at all, I think the cold one. But the other direction is still just a trickle. Will take a look at the lines and valves later, this may be beyond me though. Thanks for all the help guys
They’re the handles like pic related, correct? If so, shut off your main water supply and replace them. I recommend removing them and bringing them to Home Depot or wherever to match with the new ones, there’s a handful of different sizes of inlet and outlet and you don’t want to make more than one trip. Also once you remove them, you will def be able to see if that’s the issue if you can blow air through them or run water through them any other way.
They’re <$10ea, make sure you have some thread tape if you need it for that application. If that’s the issue, it’s almost better they went to shit on you now before they started leaking and caused damage.
building this..
see that curved piece of fireboard that the flue goes through?
how the heck am i gonna transcribe the oval on a flat piece of fireboard before i bend it into shape?
Put the piece in, then use a scrap of a duct and start cutting it back until it sits against the curve
Trace and cut out
I can’t disassemble this c**t, I mean die grinder! The shaft end is a little goofed but idk the history. What do? I want to change bearings because it gets too hot and noisy.
How much is a 1.5 car detached garage in chicago land?
Would need concrete but no demo
I wanna make a glass box. I tried it with glue but it just won't work and I will use the box for some aggressive solvents so ideally it will be all glass, without any glue of any kind.
I know for making glassware you melt glass and at that you can kind of solder glass pieces together, can I do that with just a some glass panels? How hot would it have to be? How do I do this?
Chicago burbs
50k is crazy high
Not if you want it done anytime soon. Crews are booked up and concrete is nowhere to be found. The premiums are insane.
A bander?
No it was all self contained and made of hard plastic. Imagine a tape measure with handles like a stapler gun. We used it for pulling pipes into position so we could fit them. It was very useful not having loose ratchet strap leads hanging all over the place. And when we were done he just hit a button and it all rolled right back into the handle.
I dunno but I want one now.
I am trying to find a tool I saw some maintenance guy using. It was a ratchet strap sort of shaped like a stapler gun. The strap would rolled back into the handle through a spring when you pressed a button. There was a small little steel hook on the end that would attach back onto the handle. When you had it around the object you would crank it by squeezing the two handles together. Anyone know what tool I'm talking about?
Home insurance question. We got a quote to do repairs around $8,000. Can I get the check from Insurance and then do it myself?
How does this whole process work. We had to do some of the work immediately just to make the house safe. Will they look at that work and be "welp, you already did half of it! we won't be paying for that!"
if you do it yourself they're going to probably ask you to document the costs involved and they probably won't pay you for your time since you're not a real contractor.
unless the guy that gave you that quote is your friend and is willing to commit insurance fraud you aren't going to get the full costs.
Just ask them if you can get the check and pay the contractor directly. See what they say.
I'm putting a non-standard battery into a Prius. Which of these sounds like the best way to connect the terminals?
1/ remove the post terminal attachment from the car side. Use a very short ( 1-2 inch ) battery cable with flat lugs. Will these flat lugs have enough contact with the screw down battery terminal?
2/ Saw the lead poles off the old battery. Drill hole in center. Use screws to attach them to battery. Use current cables
3/ Buy these adapters. I'm hesitent because I see MFGs saying these should not be used permanently but are just termporary for charging... https://i5.walmartimages.com/asr/0c9104ca-ee52-4200-9e95-397637dc9349.552bdef00d017ed2d773d7aec8696c7e.jpeg
I like 3. I don’t see how that is less permanent than the others and it’s tidy.
Are ignition wrenches and midget wrenches just open end/box end/combinations wrenches that are small?
As per image, the plaster is fricked in a few places in my flat. A couple of questions about it:
1) How easy is it to fix with those cheap plaster patching products I see at local hardware stores?
2) How likely is it that it's my fault the plaster got like this? I barely turned my heating on over winter, so I suspect that might be part of it. Also think the property has a problem with penetrating damp though (it's a 100+ year old building, and has a few maintenance issues like this), so that could affect it too I guess.
Basically trying to figure out if I should tell my landlord about it or try to fix it myself. Leaning towards the former because she's a relatively chill old girl and I think she'd get it fixed herself without charging me, but you never quite know
I did painting and drywall commercially for 4 years. Could be a dust problem and the plastered/ painted over dust. It could be due to moisture. The Best thing to do is use a putty knife to scrape all the flakes off, save a few paint chips to get a matched color paint at the hardware store. Then buy a few cans of spray 'kilz' primer. I dont know the European equivalent. Spray a coat on the scraped area and then get some 20 minute joint compound and 'float' a larger area than the damage. An area big enough that almost seems excessive. Then sand smooth and paint. A cheap roller nap is fine just brush the roller out to get loose fibers off of it. Use a flashlight at an angle if youre trying to be particular.
That’s definitely not your fault.
I'm the MDF guy. It's used inside as window frame/cill and it has to withstand the occasional /dirty wet shoe.
An oil based polyurethane or varnish would be my pick. Really if you're worried you should really change materials.
That could work. Side hammer is another option. What's the other side look like? Can you tap on the shaft to knock it out?
Sq. I have a car radio with I believe to be a fake TDA7850 amplifier. I don't use this as there's quite a bit of distortion
It only have one set of pre outs for the front l and r channels and the sound quality is fine
Can I just use the inputs for the amp chip as pre outs or are they the wrong voltage etc.
>Press the bearing out.
With what a dent puller?
My apartment is next to a kindergarten and I can hear sounds of children and birds too much. Is there a cheap way to reduce that noise by, for example, covering my windows with some material? If I were to attach something to my windows, it would need to be easily removable.
Mist water and bubble wrap adheres to glass. Hang towels around air vents. Yours would be a fun thread topic.
I might make a separate thread later. It doesn't really matter how ugly this contraption would look since I was thinking about replacing my curtains with cardboard boxes. Perhaps I could even attach aluminium foil to it so that my apartment would be cooler and the screaming kids would be blinded.
>Mist water and bubble wrap adheres to glass
I don't quite understand the mist water part. Do you mean that bubblewrap would addhere to glass with water spray?
Yes. Used mist as verb because lazy
Buy a sheet of insulation (“foam board”) and cut it to fit a little larger than your window opening. Use AC tape to tape it to your wall. I did that for a window in my room that was leaky to cut down on drafts but it also had a side effect of dampening the outside noise considerably. It’s also pitch black so I can nap anytime I want and it’s dark in my room.
Picrel
Have you noticed any difference in the room temperature after doing that?
Here's a stupid question that's probably staring me in the face but here goes.
Problem: I have a sprinkler system that's running at the wrong time and I don't know why.
details: It's a Hunter sprinkler system if that's important. it has 8 zones, 1-8, and the programmable options have A, B, and C. idk how standard that is. The current date and time is correct. I only have four zones in the yard I think, and I only have "C" programmed to on, 15 minutes each zone, every other day, starting at 4am.
Yet at 10am through 11am it's running and I have no idea why.
I don't think it can be the time being wrong as it says it's right, and even if it was somehow running through all 8 zones it would only be 2 hours. AND even if it was somehow doing "all of zone A first, then zones B, then zones C, it would only go through 10am because each of the eight would add together to give each letter 2 hours running time // a 4 hour delay (no A/B) to end at 10am, not 11 am.
Any ideas?
Any recommendations on tools to cut SS rods? I live in an apartment working on various projects, various times of the day, so the quieter the better, and at times I will be using ss rod in various diameters 1-10mm in diameter, but 3-6 mm used more often. I also want to cut aluminum piping, inner diameter being 2mm max, and I believe I will get something like this. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B088BW69PS for the aluminum piping.
As for the SS rods, couple things crossed my mind,
>chop saw
>bolt cutters
Any other ideas? Even though chop saw isn't quiet, if I find it more convenient then I would probably just use that, plan ahead or wait the next day without interrupting people.
Cheap way is a corded angle grinder with a box of abrasive cutting discs. Cheap slower quieter way is a rotary tool with smaller abrasive cutting discs.
Chop saws are bulky and not versatile. I've gaps of ten years without using mine and I do a lot of metalwork. Not worth buying unless cutting rebar for foundations and a torch is faster.
Bolt cutters make ugly cuts requiring finish grinding and 10mm is high effort for them. I'd eliminate that from consideration.
>Bolt cutters make ugly cuts requiring finish grinding and 10mm is high effort for them. I'd eliminate that from consideration.
Good point actually, I will have to take a grinder to smooth it anyways.
Rotary like a dremel, or would this work too?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B094QMX7D4
I also thought about it and think if I have to go to 10mm the aluminum piping might be fine.
I'm painting a wall in my kitchen. Just replaced an exterior door and the previous owner calked the INTERIOR door trim to the wall. Needless to say I'm in for quite a bit of painting and drywall repair around the opening. The previous trim was oversized and awful. Didn't match anything in the house so I pulled it off when I did the door.
Anyway, what is your opinion on accent walls in kitchens? The walls are currently an off-white color. This is for a galley kitchen in a 1950s ranch-style home. Picture from google. Since I am going to need to repaint everything around the door anyway, should I bring some color into the space or just match the existing paint?
Current walls are off-white. Cabinets are a similar wood color to the ones in the photo. The door I'll be paining around is white with large window in it.
Why not just post an actual pic instead of a pic that looks like it.
Yes go with an accent color. It’s hard to match paint perfectly.
'Cause this house is a fixer up and looks like dogshit. Plus I'm posting from an actual PC, not a phone, and taking a picture would be a pain.
I'm going to make a desk. I will use a solid oak tabletop about 1.5" thick, 23" wide and 62" long. What do I need to pay attention to when picking the legs? I'm afraid the desk will be wobbly.
I would buy the Ikea legs with 5+ screw points or wood legs with steel mount ing hardware
Are there any super cheap low quality poster-sized screens? Looking for maybe some back-lit chinese crap; not "cheap" tv's or projectors. Kind of like those displays that they have in malls for advertising.
Go to goodwill or a pawn shop and buy a tv
I've just moved into a new apartment with one of these shower heads that has a normal spray mode + a massage mode that you choose by twisting the head but it leaks like crazy. Is this something I can fix myself or do I need to get my landlord to replace it?
Could be clogged up with hard water deposits. There are products that work on this, like CLR. You could also used a strong vinegar solution. A soak overnight and a good scrubbing is good enough for light buildups. Heavier stuff requires multiple rounds.
If it is something else, like broken seals or cracked plastic it is almost never worth the effort of fixing. Showerheads are mostly universal. Buy one you like, install it, and put the old one back in when you move. Take yours to your next place and do the same thing. Back when I was renting I did shit like that all the time.
Good call on just replacing it, I looked at doing that at my last apartment but the local stores were just too expensive. Amazon looks like a good bet
>install it, and put the old one back in when you move
Solid plan. Thanks anons
Yeah I bought a new hose off Amazon for mine and it was dirt cheap compared to Home Depot for 90% the quality. Even came with a babby roll of teflon tape for the threads.
The thing I learned the hard way, the threads may be metallic like coated plastic, so be weary of that before cranking down on it. But that was also some like $70 Home Depot shower head with plastic threads on the hose. Plastic threads with teflon tape seal easily without much torque anyway
There are tons of cheap ones on Amazon and the hoses are pretty universal. Might be worth buying just the shower head and bypassing the landlord.
Also if that one sucks, you could buy yourself a nice one and use it til you move out, then reinstall the old shower head when you leave and bring the good one with you to the next place.
The CLR may work, especially if you remove the thing and let it soak for a long time, but a brand new Amazon chinesium guy might be cheaper than a bottle of CLR and guaranteed to not be clogged and jammed up.
>Might be worth buying just the shower head and bypassing the landlord.
Most apartments in my experience have the cheapest contractor shower head you can buy. so it's nice to replace it with a new one, and when you move out just put the old one back. takes 5 minutes.
Are there any dual Woodburn and electric hot water cylinders? Trying to make my house shtf proof if there was ever grid issues.
>hot water cylinders
If its already hot, why do you need to power it?
Get a solar one. You can get water so hot it will boil with one. Put it in a storage tank and mix it with cold water during the day to keep from boiling your skin off. Take it straight from the tank in the mornings after it has cooled a tad. If the sun goes out you got bigger problems then bathing in cold water.
I'd get a corded electric or pneumatic die grinder. Its been years since I look but I doubt cordless die grinders are on par with an corded electric one let alone a pneumatic one (assuming you already have a decent compressor. Rotary tools are to die grinders what electric screwdrivers are to impact wrenches.
>I'd get a corded electric or pneumatic die grinder.
Thanks anon, I just came to the realization that I would like to also cut aluminum extrusions 2020, the kind for 3d printers. So, I will keep looking around and see what people are using to cut 2020. I am going to take months of research so I am in no rush.
Again, thanks.
The issue isn't that it's already hot, the issue is that if a grid is down long enough it won't be. And I've considered solar but I'd prefer to look at alternative systems. Solar is, again just a back up for electricity and not without irs own issues. Woodfire has a better longevity and less points of failure. If I live in the middle of nowhere if I have a 10,000 acre section with trees I'll be set for life.
You aren't going to find something off the shelf that runs on wood AND electricity. They are very different methods of heating water. That said, it is easy enough to plumb in a second water heater and use valves to pick which one is in use.
Look into wood fired swimming pool heaters if you want something off the shelf.
I can't remember what they are called but some European countries also have these whole house heater, water heater, stove things. They are brick so you don't buy them, you have them built. Massive things but they cover everything and are very economical to operate.
Surprisingly I did find some by rinnai, but they use a standard wood fireplace to pipe heat into cylinders, as opposed to a dedicated fire under the cylinder. Which is honestly way better and more what I was after
Also that sounds like a great set up. My ideal scenario would be a woodfire system that is multifaceted. It, as you said, would have to be custom but hey... I love wood man what can I say.
why can't I power a 25V 2A device with a 50V 1A power supply?
it has the same wattage.
I normally dont mix and match volts, amps if the device doesn't explicitly state its wattage. What device is it?
internet Access point.
The rule with power supplies is this: Match the voltage, have at least as many amps/watts as it needs.
More amps is generally fine as long as the power source isn't fussy about it. The device will only draw as much as it needs. Less amps is bad. If it draws, say, 4 amps and the supply is only rated for 2 amps then things get melty for the power supply.
Voltage, on the other hand, is generally fixed. The power supply will output 50 volts regardless of what your device wants. Wattage and amps can be flexible but volts generally isn't. If you put 50 volts into a device that needs 25 you will melt shit in the device.
That's like asking why can't you drink from a pressure washer. Sure you could down the volume of water but 3000 psi is going to frick you up.
I got a shitty bike from my girlfriends Dad to use while I'm in her country. Yesterday, after not using it for 2 weeks, it just stopped working. I can't peddle forward. It's like something is stuck, but I can't see anything causing that issue.
I can't see any issue with the rear derailleur, but I'm an amatuer.
Take the chain off
Does the wheel spin? Do the pedals spin?
What is the absolute cheapest way to make a fence/barricade? It only needs to be about 50 freedom units (15 meters) long and too tall for the average person to want to jump over.
I need to set it up in my backyard because crackheads from the street over keep taking my lack of fence as an excuse to enter my yard. Last week I set up fence post to mark the property line and people STILL walk through the yard
Someone stole my lighter fluid from off my grill and I'm ready to resort to booby traps, but since we have a duty of care to trespassers for some fricking reason, I can't.
Various wire fences with metal posts and if possible barbed wire on top (see your local laws for what you can do).
12' 4x4s buried at least 4' with cross boards and wire grid in between
Pic related
My kids electric car won't shift out of park mode. Looks like a capacitor was blown so I'll try to replace it.
What store has pieces like this?
The arrow points to where the little capacitor was seated. It popped and is the piece laying off the board below.
Looks like it says 220uF and 16v.
where do you live? may not be anywhere local near by and you would have the easiest luck pulling apart someone else's discarded electronics
You can always buy them off amazon or aliexpress, but amazon would likely require you to but in bulk and you would have forgotten what you ordered by the time aliexpress arrives
Amazon if you have prime is the fastest. eBay, Mouser, Digikey, etc. Since RadioShack's downfall there's no local stores with components. Some RC hobby shops have components but it's hit or miss.
what's a good option for storing nails, screws, bits, small tools, and other bullshit?
Any of those are good. I have random flat boxes with dividers all over the place and recently got these bins for some main stuff. They’re straight because they stack and they’re fairly universal and if I need a couple small screws for something, I can grab the “Small Wood Screws” bin and bring it right to whatever I’m working on.
There’s a bunch of options so whatever works for you. My problem is I’m always adding stuff, like 3 boxes of electrical stuff, a bunch of random plumbing stuff in other boxes and bins, assortments of nuts and bolts and washers in the clear flat tackle boxes.
>osb shelf holding up rigid and ryobi
how to tell me you're poor without saying you're poor
Should the inside of my faucet supply line look like this? Is that black stuff clogging or something else?
How much should I expect voltage to drop when running a wall AC unit?
I have a UPS plugged in and when nothing is running I get between 117-121v (usually 118)
When I run the AC, or rather any of the AC, I see a drop to 114-116
If I run multiple it's easy for it to get to 111-113
Is the wiring here just fricked? What do I even do? How do I fix this?
Also are these reliable because I kept getting conflicted "open ground" readings on the same socket
Are you talking window a/cs?
How many circuits are in your house?
Are you running them on the same circuit?
What's the normal load for your house? (You'll have to calculate this)
What's the service amps?
Black is a gasket so it doesn't leak while only needing to be hand tightened
If you have an issue with a faucet, it's either in the aerator (right where the water comes out), the valve it's connected to (where that screws into the piping) or in the line
First, unscrew the aerator (this fixes the vast majority of faucet problems)
Make sure the faucet is working properly
Then use a bucket with the hose unhooked and make sure water will shoot out the valve
If it doesn't, you'll have to call a plumber cuz you're clearly plumbing illiterate
Yes, ~500w 4.9amp window units
How do I tell? There's 5 double breakers and 5 single breakers in the fuse box. Some of them are labeled for the heavy appliances but idk how to tell if everything else is on the same circuit (let's go with "probably")
So probably, although I've run them all together and not tripped anything
How would I calculate that? Normally I've got nothing but a tv, some ceiling fans, and the fridge going.
Also unsure of how to tell this.
Who the hell in the right mind would remotely even consider getting rid of the black rubber ring?
In case it wasn't clear to you, I'm referring to the black stuff in the center of the ring. You know, the donut hole. Any advice on what that is/getting rid of that would be much appreciated.
Cheers
Just use a drill bit in your fingers and spin it in to clear it out
You should really figure out if the outlets are on the same circuits
Old breakers won't blow and the wires can melt in the wall
I literally had an outlet almost burst into flames and not blow the breaker. Melted the receptacle to the faceplate and made a black ring around the face plate
I would, at minimum, make the a/c units be on separate breakers. You might have to run a new circuit. If you don't have a free breaker space in the panel, figure out which circuit has the least load and connect that circuit with the new wire and then have a third wire run into the existing breaker
What's the best way to test that?
Just flip the breakers one at a time and see what shuts off?
I'll have to call an electrician for anything complicated, it's an old house and I'm renting so I can't rewire anything myself.
I was mostly hoping this could just be a "the socket wires are loose, tighten them and you'll get stable voltage"
that worked, thanks. I am now ever so slightly less plumbing illiterate
Okay so I ran around and tested all the sockets (not sure about circuits still) and I'm getting a lot of "open ground" and "neutral reverse" readings.
Is the wiring here just fricked or is that the kind of thing that can be fixed by popping off the face plate and fixing the wiring?
I'm trying to figure out how much of a headache this is gunna be or if I should just start looking at places to move
I would just straight up not worry about it or move since you don't own the place.
The landlord knows about the window units so it's on him
You can flip breakers off one at a time and hopefully one plug in one room is on another circuit
You might be able to sue since it's unsafe to have ungrounded 3-prong outlets since the ground goes nowhere
I narrowed it down and they're all on the same circuit, i.e. the "rooms you actually live and sleep in"
I'll just make them pay for an electrician to come fix the fricking sockets
Did I frick up? Wanted to convert plastic hammer handle to wood for blacksmithing and when it was time to put in the metal wedge, it caused the perpendicular crack. I know some minor splitting may occur, but this looks too much.
Give it a few test whacks somewhere safe to see if it will fly off. If that sounds too dangerous you can always see if you can knock the head off your self. Its hard to tell with those kind of cracks because I have some tools that my grandfather had from pre-ww2 England that have cracks like that but are reliable as frick. The more modern ones are more likely to break with cracks like those, but you will never really know till you try it or just rehandle it.
It's fine. Fill it full of epoxy or wood glue if you want peace of mind.
Is 700 a good price for this set? Is makita even good?
Forgot to say, 700 euros, Germany. I have very few tools so I need pretty much all of them (except the flashlight)
Mkit is used bymost contrctors. I was at a jobsite yesterday with a plumber and carpenter. All of us had makita.
What skills do I need to live on a sailboat for the rest of my life?
My guesses:
> Know how to use a nautical radio to talk to port authorities, coast guard, other boats, ships.
> Sailing.
> Small engine repair, at least to work my way up to boat engines.
> Basic plumbing.
> Basic carpentry.
> Basic electronics troubleshooting and repair.
> Know how to repair a reverse osmosis filter.
> Residential electrical wiring.
I understand that I must have the skills to repair everything on a sailboat, I don't know what "everything" encompasses.
It's not possible to repair everything, you have to eventually go back to land for replacement parts and shit.
Hey bros I want to get a street legal dirt bike but I’m worried it will get stolen, what sort of tracking device could I put in it to find it, if it ever gets stolen
Was putting in insulation in my basement ceiling and disturbed this extremely friable white material that was hiding behind some existing pink insulation. What are the odds that this ISN'T asbestos? Yes it's an old house from the 1950's.
Are you talking about that white/light colored material in center left of your picture???
That is spray foam that they were using to seal a crack or something. That's not asbestos. Old spray foam often becomes super brittle and friable and turns into chunks/powder if you press or rub it.
The asbestos hazard in attics usually involved vermiculite insulation of the "zonolite" brand from Libby, Utah.
Notice how the foam is bonded to the backside of that fiberglass. Vermiculite insulation looks like weird little pebbles of dry oatmeal (google it).
Asbestos is like paper fiber, not sand
Yes but you'd have to compare to the same material
The type of piping also matters
Smooth pipe carries significantly more than CSST
Install a Killswitch somewhere you can't see it. You can even get ones with keys
You can also lock it up like a bicycle if you're that worried
Fiberglass/polymer work
12v electrical
Canvas repair
Rope repair
How to be happy without a gf
If I measure the outside diameter of a gas pipe will that be enough info to determine the inside diameter? I need to determine what my current capacity is so I can install a gas range, and since I’m slow I don’t want to beak and connect to the existing line until the additional line is ready.
What’s that foam shit called that you put in a tool chest drawer and cut out the shape of a tool so it doesn’t go flying around the drawer when I’m pissed off and open/close it like an angry manchild
non slip drawer liner. You could also have just asked chatgpt.
>non slip drawer liner
I don’t agree
how do i learn basic craftsman skills?
at my work we often have things that need to be repaired, we have one mechanic but he's often so busy that i have to repair shit myself even though it's not technically my job. and i fail hard because i'm a moron who's never had to work with my hands before.
you learn by doing. when something breaks, follow repair guides or someone's instructions, if it's simple enough just work with it to get it back together with some creative thinking. The most important part is to pay attention while you fix it and engage your brain in problem solving.
The more stuff you fix, the more intuitive it becomes. Lots of skills transfer. Like doing your own car repairs can transfer knowledge to repairing other heavy machinery, or building a partition wall can help you when it comes time to build a shed or open up a wall to repair plumbing. You can speed things along by researching the things your repairing and learning how and why things work the way they do. Specific disciplines transfer within themselves well, like fixing electrical issues in a car can help when fixing electrical in an alarm clock or house. Installing a new sink in your house helps you fix leaky pipes later on. Building a cabinet from scratch teaches you wood working and painting and how/when to use all the associated tools.
Do this enough times across enough disciplines and you can repair your way through most things just on broad principles alone. Unfortunately experience like this isn't something that can be rushed, often it's built over years of hobby/amateur/professional experience. If you want to perform repairs on your current job asap, you really ought to work with the existing mechanic to learn the basics and spend some time brushing up afterwards with online resources to better cement the knowledge. Long-term, get some hobbies or projects that build these skills. Upgrade/repair your car or home office and try to pick things that will teach you new skills. Like you could build a new desk for yourself, but dont just screw a bunch of rough 2x4s together, learn to do it right. Build a robot, repair your computer, fix your leaky roof, etc etc
Are barndominiums actually sub $100 per sq foot?
I live on the doorstep of a company which supplies barndo kits and I dont want to buy a house during a record breaking housing bubble. Also land is relatively cheap where I am, there are plots available within county limit with hookups for electric, internet, and water available for ~40k/acre zoned for Residential. I just want to build the literal cheapest habitable home possible, preferably in a manner which allows it to be expanded into something actually nice to live in when the housing market crashes and materials/labor are cheap. The way I see it, for a 1000 sq foot barndo, a 6 inch slab foundation is ~$7k, the kit itself is ~20k + shipping (which is like 80 miles). I'll probably have to pay a company to erect the actual structure and an electrician/plumber for power and water, but the rest is stupidly easy because the structure itself is completely self supported. As far as the interior goes I could pitch a tent inside if I so chose as long as it meets the city's dumbass building codes. The only foreseeable issue might be financing, but I've seen people online get financing for barndominiums just fine.
Am I moronic or is this doable for like 150k including land costs? What am I missing? It seems like if it were this stupidly cheap there would be barndos everywhere.
You know a regular house is like 150 bucks a sq foot, right? Imagine paying 150k to live in a fricking metal shed.
Homes where I am are 275k minimum for a wooden shed. And building one is out of the question because home builders are all busy building 275k wooden sheds. Even wooden sheds in Black person-ville are 200k+ and the pleasure of being stabbed is free.
You can build a barndominium for like $150/sqft
You'd be better off finding an Amish guy to build you one than piss with a kit
Can I get in trouble for chopping someone else's tree? For context, it fell over and has been leaning against my house for about a week. The neighbor did hire someone to come out and deal with it, but the guy claimed insurance only covers the neighbors property and he wanted $400 from me on top of what the neighbor was paying. I would have just made an insurance claim myself, but the house is actually fine since his shed took the blow. Anyway, I took that as leave to do what I would with "my" half of the tree. It was hung up and half fallen though, so in order to safely deal with "my" half of the tree, I went ahead and cut the whole thing up. All that's left now is the trunk wedged into his shed. I would have talked to the owner first but the house is actually in the hands of a developer right now and I don't have their number, so the place is vacant. I just didn't want this thing tipping over and spearing through my wall.
Here's the only pic I took that's small enoigh to post
You can't cut a tree on someone else's property without permission. Cutting the parts that fell onto your property is fine. Going over and cutting parts that might fall onto your property is not. If you live in a city you can try code enforcement. They might be able to help.
What you should do is send a certified letter to whomever is listed as the owner on the deed (which you can find on your auditor's website) stating the hazard and issuing notice that if action is not taken and your property is damaged they will be held 100% liable. You can also call your property insurance company and let them know. They might want to send that letter themselves.
>Cutting the parts that fell onto your property is fine
See, that's the problem. It's a big-ass tree with all of its potential energy hanging overhead. I physically had to start on that side for safety reasons just to be able to cut the parts hanging on my side. Again, I would have left it for the guys he hired but it's my sister's place and she gets a little emotional.
I'm just used to living in the middle of nowhere instead of a suburb. This isn't the first neighbor's tree to fall on a fence, and all those times we just handled it on "shit happens" and gentlemen's agreements. The only reason I felt prompted to do something was because if it did fall all the way down from where it was wedged, it would have gone through the wall and maybe killed one of her pets
Yeah buddy, you're fricked.
Best bet, the developer moron sees it and just assumes the guy who the neighbor hired did it. Worst case, he makes the claim that you destroyed the tree and damaged his shed, because you were probably dumb enough to not take dozens of pictures of the damage before you started work and after, and it's a free payday and a new shed for him, what does he care?
We both had pictures of it already since the developer made an insurance claim on it. Pic related is the part I cut since WE didn't need an insurance claim yet. We were told we'd need to pay the tree crew as well though, by the tree crew who haven't come back a week later, which I thought was bullshit. If you know anything about cutting trees, you know not to cut it from where it's going to potentially fall. That's why the only accesses I had at first were from dangerous areas because it was wedged in their shed, which is why I cut from over the fence first. I only cut what I had to in order to safely cut all the overhanging parts. Beyond that, I trimmed these branches back a few inches to their side simply so it wouldn't fall on the fence if it did finally give out as a courtesy. I guess it would be best to just play dumb and say I gave some dude off craigslist $100 cash to trim it for us if they ask. There's no extra damages though and I imagine the guys he hired will take it as a free payday since 90% of the job is done.
Yeah it kinda sucks. There's no HOA at least and it's a safe area, but living outside the city is best
And here is the after shot. I guess I could also argue that I did it from my side with a ladder, which is also true.
>I imagine the guys he hired will take it as a free payday since 90% of the job is done.
If they're the kinds of c**ts who wanted another 400 bucks from you before they even started work, lol, lmao.
Look, you obviously did what was right, but you're at the mercy of about half a dozen literal parasites now who will be very happy to sue you to make a few grand, and the law will side with them.
>as a courtesy
So you committed criminal trespass and criminal damaging as a courtesy. Nice. Next time call the city, they'll send out a code enforcement officer to give you authorization instead of you opening yourself (and the home owner) up to hundreds of thousands in civil liability along with criminal charges.
I really don't want to have to draw a diagram of all this. I would have gladly just dealt with the top of the tree if that were possible but it would have been like trying to hold a sword by the blade because you're not permitted to touch the handle, all while being told that it's still your responsibility. If the tree was smashed through the fence lying flat, there would be no issue at all. I would have gladly ignored it until they handled it. I only cut it because a half-fallen tree is dangerous in general and even moreso when you're on the side where it's still has energy to fall. I'm not exaggerating when I say that either. These kinds of trees are called widowmakers (pic) for a reason and there was a very small chance that by some fluke my sister could have been gawking at it when it decided to come down completely and have been killed by a sharp fragment shooting off. I'm not trying to be a thick-skulled boomer about all this. The thing sat there like that for an entire week until I finally felt like I needed to disarm the damn thing as safely as I could. I should have called the city sure but less than a year ago I lived in a place where entire houses were installed word of mouth without a permit. My own uncle has installed entire septic systems for friends/family for a case of beer.
When you live in a shithole society, you have to cover your ass. There's a good chance you get off scot free, everyone is happy and nothing ever comes of it. There's also a non-zero chance that you get gutfricked by the legal system because a contractor is salty you didn't pay him the 400 bucks, or the developer sees an easy way to get a new shed.
Just put a towel down under it? I guess it depends on the style of the toilet though.
You're laboring under the misconception that there is some string of events that could have happened granting you unilateral legal authority to trespass on and alter your neighbor's property. There is not. For that authority you would have had to call the city and get an inspector with said authority to grant you permission.
None of your rationalizing matter. No diagrams will get you out of this. Just stfu and get a lawyer if one officer, inspector, adjuster or anyone at all comes asking about what you did.
>went from the country to the suburbs
Man you fricked up, as someone who has lived in suburban areas all my life these places are shitholes, go back to the country asap. I can't way until I have enough money to move into the middle of no where and not have to deal with busy bodies and morons that have nothing better to do than harass me when I'm outside working in the lawn trying to ask me a million questions about everything.
Call your insurance company and ask them before his sues you for touching the tree
Are you fricking stupid
You can cut anything on your property
Technically, you aren't supposed to cross the property line but most people don't gaf in this situation
You should have just asked your neighbor if you could do it
You probably won't get in trouble unless you cut the whole tree down
>Can I get in trouble for chopping someone else's tree?
In my State it's real simple; If it's anywhere on your property line (which extends straight up from the ground) you can absolutely cut any part of the tree INCLUDING cutting it off at the trunk if any part of any branch or trunk is on your property. If the trunk is growing on more than one person property than each person is considered the owner of that tree and any of them can do whatever they want to it.
Are there any smart locks/handles that are worth a shit and aren't terribly expensive? My mom refuses to lock the door leading to her garage because her hands are typically full when she's walking in. She has an automatic close timer on her garage door, and the door to the garage could probably be easily defeated by anybody set on actually stealing from the place, but I'd still like to hinder crimes of opportunity if someone managed to slip in.
I looked at some of the smart locks that have some kind of automatic lock/automatic unlock with a smart phone, and they all seem like total shit except for maybe the expensive Schlage ones. Alternatively, I've looked at some of the cheaper chink door handles that unlock with a fingerprint, but those seem to have massive failure rates, themselves. Frankly, I'm not fond of the idea of a smart lock in the first place, but I'm not aware of any mechanical solutions that would work.
Try abus brand
I'm planning to make replacement cases for my Gameboy collection using tape cassette israeliteel cases. Seems like most people use these 3D printed inserts to hold the cartridge, but I was thinking it would be cheaper and easier for me to cut some foam inserts, like those pick grid foam trays.
What type of foam would be best suited for this application? I basically need something good for long-term safe storage of ABS plastics and electronics, and the easier it is to cut by hand the better. Not very familiar with how foam materials age and affect other materials they come in contact with over time, and I find this stuff hard to look up (google is a nightmare these days tbh).
I just need something that doesn't frick up ABS over time and that also won't disintegrate into dust come 5 years from now.
the gray/black electrically conductive antistatic EVA foam that they use to pack ICs will last for decades in one of those cases and won't hurt ABS or sensitive electronics.
You can get some free sample sheets by chatting with reps on alibaba and that would easily be enough to house dozens/hundreds of gameboy cartridges. A bigger issue is that the components on those circuit boards inside may degrade from other issues such as oxidation and calendar aging.
Any plumbers here? My toilet tank won't fill. I've isolated the issue to inlet valve seal. It won't allow the water to flow through the ports and instead a small amount of water tries to force its way through the hole the control stem goes through. Will replacing the seal fix this issue? I don't know shit about toilets so I'm using pic related as a reference (even though it is a slightly different system) for what I'm seeing in my own toilet in order to put it into the proper verbiage so hopefully someone else is be able to understand what I'm seeing. My first thought is that a bad seal would allow a constant leak, not prevent flow altogether. So I dunno if I should just say frick it and go through the hassle of replacing the whole inlet even though the rest of it seems to be perfectly functional.
I'd just replace the inlet. It shouldn't really be much of an issue, taking the thing apart to reseat a valve would be more hassle, you just isolate, unscrew the whole assembly, fit a new one because they should all use the same size hardware. I'd pay 20 bucks any day to avoid trying to troubleshoot some crusty old piece of shit that has probably failed internally in a way you can't fix anyway.
I mean I've already disassembled it lol. That's why I'm thinking I might be able to get away with reassembling it with just one new part. I'll probably end up replacing the whole inlet yeah. I've done that before on another toilet and I hated trying to not make a mess with that last bit of water that won't go down the flapper.
Nevermind, I'm moronic and didn't realize where the water was supposed to come out. I thought the inlet was fine because it would come out from the top when the seal wasn't on, even though it needs to be able to flow back down the outer tube. It's probably all gunked up internally.
Well one good thing to come out of this was that I realized that if I get the exact same model I won't even have to worry about that. Most of the assembly is separate from the main plastic pipe connected to the water line. I can just slide the new assembly over that without having to disconnect it.
I did exactly what I said I was gonna do and I highly recommend it if anyone else ever has to replace their toilet's inlet. As long as that plastic piping isn't the problem, it's a very easy solution to just pop a new assembly onto it instead of replacing the whole thing starting at the water line. Literally took me 2 minutes and it's working perfectly.
Alright, I'm done with the tree debate. You guys had me going but the law is apparently not so dumb as to not have a stipulation for this
That's literally not law. It's a screenshot from nolo.com. How stupid are you? Oh, right, you're stupid enough to commit multiple crimes, take pictures of yourself doing them, realize after the fact you did crimes, post online asking how fricked you are, post incriminating pictures with a full confession online, then argue because you know you're fricked and can't accept it.
I want to make a mast to hold my TV antennas because buying one (30' tall freestanding with base plate) is almost 600 dollars. My idea was to use 3 schedule 40 black pipe for rigidity and screw them together, with wooden brackets between them as braces in a triangle. Then, I would anchor the entire thing in the ground with cement. Tell me why this is a bad idea- I'm sure somewhere out there there's someone with an old antenna mast (the kind that attach to the side of a house) but I haven't found one in the few months I've been looking.
Have you tried craigslist or facebook marketplace? There's plenty around here. A PVC and wood tower isn't going to last long, if at all, in the elements. I'd probably look more to metal conduit and guy-wires than PVC and wood. Could weld something up fairly cheap that would be on par if not better than a real tower from EMT and old bed frame. Only down side would be having to coat it to keep it from rusting.
Black pipe is iron gas pipe, and yeah I looked at craigslist and there's nothing I can find for old TV towers. I don't have facebook so I can't look there.
My bad, read sch 40 and thought pvc. Black pipe would be too heavy. You'd think it'd be more rigid but it'll just be more unstable. Too much weight aloft. I'd go conduit because it's thinner, lighter but still strong.
thanks for the tip, conduit would be way lighter I didn't think of that.
>Climb on roof
>Screw antennas to roof through butyl using barn screws
>?????
Profit
You want one you can actually climb
Tryna have a nice day isn't going to help
I blew $100 on fireworks for the family and it was cute, but now I have a year to prepare my own production as opposed to going to the ghetto popup corner shop rented for a month by a fat guido whose authority and self worth stem from the poorly holstered Glock dangling from his side, flopping as he waddles through customers.
I'm envisioning buying artillery shells in bulk, then building PVC mortars - in essence what I paid a premium for last night done from cardboard and concrete in China.
>The hypocrisy of celebrating America by buying overpriced Chinese disposable junk
Not lost on me.
Anyone have tips or experience?
Don’t die.
I had a fricking chinese cake blow out on me last night, it wasn’t a huge one but I think one of the 8 shot guys, it exploded on #3 and the tubes for the last 5 shots were live sideways on the ground.
Next time anchor the cake however you like, or place it inside something like a scrap big truck rim (the open center style) or in a vertical mortar you can make from any number of things.
If you make a bowling ball mortar from a scrap inert gas cylinder (your local machine shop can band saw those in two for you in minutes and may do it for the leftover half) that will of course fit fireworks.
Lol were you in Clearwater FL? Saw the same thing happen on the beach.
Other coast jeezy. And that shit happens. It’s all in the name of freedom. It’s real fun when mortars have a weak launch charge or get stuck in the tube or sometimes they will blow about 4’ out of the tube.
Safety is lame
not any of these anons, but is it true that if you charge a high voltage battery on a low volt system it can frick the battery up?
Gay ass website doesn’t like the gifs
Are solder seals good? Or should I just solder and shrink wrap the wire?
> good?
I’ve used them on aircraft shit as instructed so, I guess they might be some kind of good.
somebody help me out here please, calculating for a small solar setup
You can't just guess on energy consumption
I would look at your power bill, find usage per day and then take that number times at least 4 to get the number of watts your system needs to be.
If you don't have a south facing balcony, just forget it
I want to buy a commercial proofing oven for DIY fermentation projects. I am looking at one that needs 2000w at 120v. I understand I will need a voltage converter to use it at home.
Is running a 2000w appliance over 1-4 days problematic in a home setting? Will I need to be conscientious of my electricity use (don’t use range top while running the proofing oven) in an average house?
>I understand I will need a voltage converter to use it at home.
Most voltage converters max out about 500-1000W. 2000W at 120V means you need a 17amp supply, which should be fine for most home supplies, assuming you're running the oven on its own circuit and you're not running it in tandem with another high power device like an oven which could pop a 30A fuse if they're wired up together.
So for a voltage converter, do I really need one that’s 3x the wattage to handle power surges? Would a 5000w unit suffice? Thank you
An oven is unlikely to require high startup current, I think you'd be fine with a 2500-3000W unit. Honestly, the 2kW rating is probably only if you turn everything on max at the same time, in actual use it might be way lower.
How do I connect this groundwater pipe? I am a complete idiot when it comes to DIY stuff. Would a flexible connector piece be the most straightforward option? I had to replace my pump since it broke down, but this one is different in height.
If you want to use a flexible pipe I'd take off the street 90 and also the pipe going back to the wall. Otherwise the flexible pipe would be too short and kink.
90% chance that the AC system has a leak and the owner is too cheap to fix it so just "tops off" the system himself every now and then. If the system is low on charge then it will very much ice up.
There's no real middle ground. I have a couple Mitutoyo 500's and an army of those cheap HF digital calipers. The Mitutoyo are better made out of better material but aren't any more accurate for what you'd use calipers to measure. I use the HF calipers for about everything just because I don't care if I dull them or break them. The biggest difference is that the Mitutoyo's don't eat batteries but that might just be because they never come out of their cases.
You could use 2 45° elbows
Have them jog up in between to the desired height
You might have to get a pipe threaded at bLowes©®™ for this
I'm at an AirBNB in the middle of the desert. This is a israeli lie by the owners to cut down bills, isn't it?
>burger starts screaming at the idea of living at 22 degrees
How fricking cold do you need it, jesus.
This place is costing a few k per night. I want ive to form on my mug while sitting on the counter. Thanks for letting me know you don't know.
Welcome to a vegas shithole, I don't know what you expected. You can risk being without AC if you want fricko, there's no way to know if it's just a dogshit old unit that dies if it tries to cool beyond a certain point.
St George, so close enough. I spent a lot of time in Vegas and it really is a shithole. Even worse now - it seems like thr city grows out by 10 miles with goyboxes in every direction.
Thanks, I figured as much. This place reeks of cheap shortcuts and the long nose tribe.
If you're European didn't half the continent's population die because it hit 72F with low humidity?
People only start whining when it goes above 30. 22 degrees is what I'd consider to be in the ideal temperature range, which is 18-23. Whining you can't set the thermostat below 22 is just bizarre.
>yet a bunch of people died and you declared it the end of the world when it happened
hmmmmmmmmmmm, well if you ever leave Europe don't bother turning down your AC and just die.
>This is a israeli lie by the owners to cut down bills, isn't it?
Yes. A proper refrigerant charge will keep have evaporator temperatures above 32 F.
If it freezes up at 70, the system is improperly charged
Set it to 66 while you're there and then turn it up and shut it off when you leave
What's a good quality calliper that are somewhere between chink shit and Mitutoyo.
>Something under 100€
>Preference digital>vernier>dial
Slightly more expensive chinkshit.
>Slightly more expensive chinkshit.
>There's no real middle ground.
Exactly what I feared and why I asked because I thought I missed something.
>The biggest difference is that the Mitutoyo's don't eat batteries but that might just be because they never come out of their cases.
I use Mitutoyo daily at work and the battery lasts for about a year. The biggest thing about them is that it just stops working (displays "Lo") when the battery gets too low. Chink shit starts lying when the battery starts dying and you don't notice it until the screen dims.
I'll just get some Mitutoyo vernier callipers to have something that's ground properly and won't cut me or get stuck. The 0.05mm accuracy is plenty for measuring stuff to 3D print anyway.
I bought some chink verniers for like 15 bucks that work fine, full steel, no sharp edges. I wish they had one of those fine adjustment things because they're a bit stiff, but they're accurate enough.
I did too and the jaws aren't even the same length. This is what pisses me off so much. I don't use them enough to warrant 300€ for a digital Mitutoyo but I'll spend 50€ for analog ones.
Wow, those look like jank shit. The ones I bought aren't even available anymore, but they were well machined.
I want to mount this hang board I made on my wall (you hang from it to increase finger strength for rock climbing).
I can either mount it directly to the two studs with 4 wood screws or I can get a piece of plywood and mount the plywood to the wall and the hang board to the plywood.
I don't have much experience with how much weight and stress wood screws in studs can take, but don't want to buy and cut a piece of plywood if I don't have too.
4 3" cabinet screws will hold plenty of weight assuming you made that thing correctly
They pretty much have to be cabinet screws tho
For a 2-stroke engine, I have a 2 gallon gas can to mix with some oil. The instructions on the oil says it's for a 2.5 gallon can however. Instructions are to dump all the oil in the container and fill with gas. Will I have to leave out a bit of the oil or should I just dump it in anyways?
Engines have spec ratios
If it uses normal 2stroke fuel, you need to keep the ratio the same
So dump in 4/5 (0.8) of the total oil
You can measure by volume or weight if you zero your scale with another vessel then dump the oil into that to measure out of
I have a disposal and light switch on the side of my kitchen island.
I'm replacing countertops and getting rid of disposal switch to switch to the countertop air switch for the disposal.
That left the light switch, I thought about just wiring the one light over the sink to the rest of the kitchen lights, but that would involve patching the ceiling, texture/paint.
Is it easy to just turn that light switch into an outlet and add another air switch to counter to control that light?
How will you connect the air switch to the light? Isn't it the same problem?
Disconnect light switch and just hook those wires up to another outlet I'm thinking. Then just getting a separate air switch and hooking it up to thay 2nd outlet.
For some reason I read that backwards. It would be easy enough to go up in the attic crawlspace and rewire the light to be connected to the circuit with the rest of the lights.
>turn that light switch into an outlet?
You could easily take the power to the current switch and sticking it in an outlet like pic related.
And then the air switch on the counters should be fine. Pay attention though because I think the garbage disposals might be on their own breaker. Not sure what the rules are with that, but you prob want to make sure you don’t end up with a toaster oven on that new switch and it’s somehow on the same breaker with the disposal and kitchen lights and it trips if more than one is running at the same time.
But I’m no elechicken.
wanting to hang a 150lb punching bag from my garage ceiling but not sure if it can handle the weight. single floor home. studs 24 inches apart. i would be using a 4 bolt mount across two beams. had a contractor look it over. he said he can fortify it by putting wood across the board in a square formation. dont know if that would do much? also he said it'll be a couple hundred bucks which sounds like a ripoff for something i can probably do myself. pic related is my garage attic
If you span a couple of truss chords you'll be fine. Make sure you bolt to your cross piece and don't compromise the trusses.
Is welding just big soldering?
No. Soldering is more like using glue. You're using solder to stick two pieces of material together. Welding actually melts all three (the two pieces you're joining, and the wire or rod) and, if done right, will fuse them together into a single piece.
I see. So is there a soldering equivalent for pieces that are large enough to weld, or is it "just weld it dummy" territory? Purely out of curiosity.
the word you might be looking for is brazing
Want to buy some acres and build a house within the next 10 years, and I'm wondering if anyone has some good brick recipes that are cost effective but also resilient.
Though I doubt I'll have clay soil, so "just fire some mud" isn't likely to work.
Just buy cinder blocks
Wtf are you thinking
I was hoping that some combination of sand, wood ash, cement, and lime would be cheaper than a cinder block and not end up being $3000 for a 20x20 cabin
$7.50 per square foot really isn't that bad for a quality structure that should outlast you
You're never going to compete on cost with anything that mass produced.
Except I also have to pay for the profit margin and the shipping costs, so I think it's a definite possibility that pound for pound, making it myself I could come on top
My 13 year old stand up freezer isn't weathering the summer as it has before. It's set for -04 degrees, but hit an alarm notifying it was at 28F today.
The compressor was very hot to the touch.
There are no coils to clean.
No apparently serviceable parts.
I pulled it away from the wall and put a fan on the motor, but as a last attempt before I buy a chest freezer tomorrow, any other measures I can take?
I'd rather fix what I have than re-arrange my house for a new freezer.
How does it have no coils? They have to be somewhere. Maybe underneath? I know some mini-fridges have the condensers hidden behind the skin but never a freezer or anything of that size. What's the model#?
Thing looks like pic related.
I'm used to fridges and freezers where coils are freely accessible
I pull it away from the wall and it's a metal backing.
I pull off the bottom trim and no coils are there.
That was my first thought. Clean the coils.
It's in the garage and it's summer time (US), but today was in the 80's.
If it has a louvered kick plate like the one in your pic then it probably has coils underneath. If you want to know for sure get the model number so we can look up the parts diagram.
>louvered kick plate
That's what I first un-screwed hoping to vacuum out the shit. It's a ghost town underneath the freezer.
Freezer is a Frigidaire,
Model isn't apparent, but '297246001' is on the back paperwork.
Google brings up the freezer's thermometer, but I suspect it isn't the model.
That's the part number for a wiring diagram. Isn't there a model number on a tag someplace inside the unit?
Honestly, I've highly considered getting a root cellar or an old fashioned ice box, when fridges or freezers break, its a fricking pain in the ass. Or at least have a smaller fridge so if it breaks you don't panic and either have to eat a month's worth of food or throw it all out
Do I HAVE to use ceiling paint on the ceiling? I'm painting an attic space. The sloped walls will be the same color as the vertical walls, which leaves a small area of actual flat ceiling, which I figure I may as well make the same color and I can probably do it in one bucket
No. ceiling paint is just a thin slightly muted flat white paint.
does two part epoxy, just the normal shit you get in the double tube at the hardware store, melt hot glue either thermally or chemically? need to repair a tower piece on some car trim that holds the clip, but I figured for strength I would make a little hot glue dam around it and then Make an 1/8 inch or so tall square of it so it has more area to hold and hopefully won't rip out in the future
Epoxy tends to be fairly thick, it'll stay in place without using hot glue.
yeah I don't think this is correct. pretty sure you thinking of RTV or JB weld or something cuz I've never used a liquid epoxy that is so thick and sticky it'll pool an eighth of an inch high or more without flowing
How shitty are chinese knock-off wagos are?
You know, original wagos say they are rated 32A, but they are probably fine for 80A even.
Im thinking to use those in lighting (couple amps max these days) and various DIY electronics test shit where current can be whatever, but is temporary.
You can break apart a real wago next to a Chinese one and see the difference, they're definitely not the same but they work well enough. You can check YouTube for wago vs clone videos if you don't already have some. Just use the real stuff when you're doing a job, and the knockoffs to frick around.
I have these Chinese knock offs, I am testing them on certain projects that don't use a lot of A, idk how many mA though, so far so good. I can say they are safe for a few Amps worse case have a setup where you can extinguish.
While I was cleaning my bathroom sink, the stopper got stuck and I couldn't plunge it out. I was able to take it out with my fingers, but how do I get it back in? Every time I put it back in it just gets stuck again and I've been fricking around with it for an hour and a half. Is it alright to just leave it out for the time being?
Check on the backside of the drain pipe, there's usually a rod and linkage there.
Have an old 60's era IH gas tractor. About 5 years ago it blew an oil line which ended in a spun rod bearing. I cleaned up the crank enough to put in a new bearing but that's all. Everything else was reused. Runs greats but does knock when the oil gets warm. Now, years later, I've run across a parts engine for cheap.
Question, if I replace the crank, rod, and put in a new bearing what are the chances it'll fix it?
Probably pretty good as long as the new parts are good. Single cylinder? Obviously inspect for further damage once you break it9 open.
Thanks. Yes only one and mains were all good. I'm still on the fence about doing it because it'll have to split the tractor again and I just did the clutch.
How much light is too much?
I have currently about 80W worth of those LED modules, which translates to about 8000 lumens of light and it is still kinda dark, as I can just squint instead of wearing welding goggles.
Actually a bit more, since they are mix of high efficiency osram LED chips (184 lm/w@25C) and chink full spectrum LEDs (120lm/w@25C).
Bedroom is small, maybe 12m^2, which is idk, 132 sqft i guess?
When you go over about 200k lumens, that's too much. Sunlight is 100k, and the sun isn't that bright.
Grab a bunch of Cree XHP70.2 LEDs and a nice big heatsink
What can you dissolve armstrong's mixture with in order to manipulate it more easily?
What happened to the woodworking general?
Is it possible to find old barrels for free anywhere, or am I going to be forced to spend money?
DC/Baltimore region
legit just call up your local dump and tell them that you want old barrels and if they are bros enough they'll actually set them aside for you and you can pick them up, either than that look up your local industrial areas that might use barrels and just call or show up and ask. I had an engineer show up one day at the back of the HVAC shop and asked if he could pilfer a bunch of pallets that we couldn't throw out because of gay disposal regulations and we let him have it.
I appreciate the tips, anon. I'll try that
What temperatures do I set my thermostat to, in order to ensure my house stays cool, but doesn't keep running? If I put it at 72 it doesn't stop, 73 it stops but doesn't start, 75 only occasionally starts, 68 it starts a lot
As much as I’m not all about the smart home BS, my sister got me a Nest thermostat for Xmas and it’s not bad. Strange it doesn’t shut off at 72 but it does at 68. Maybe a better thermostat would help? And the Nest will let the temp go up a bit when you’re not there, mine goes up to 80 when I’m working and kicks down to 76 when I get home and then 72 when it’s getting dark.
>boiler loses all pressure over a week away
>try and fill it
>just whistles at me and seems to not do anything, no pressure increase, figure there's a leak in the system or the pressure release valve is stuck open
>call a guy out
>he just fills it past the scary noises and it starts filling up no problem
-150 bucks for a Saturday callout. Sad times.
Do I really need to pay an arborist to cut off some branches so they don't touch my roof?
are you asking if you can do this yourself, or are you asking if it's OK to just let tree branches beat up your house?
It's a maybe either way. Is your house made of concrete? Are they big branches or small? Can you reach them with a pair of loppers or will you need to climb?
Was asking if I can just do it myself and buy a ladder.
I don't think it's made of concrete but the exterior is brick. The roof is actually only a year old, so it's basically brand new. It's only 1 story tall, with it being slight taller on the other side.
Is there something arborists will do that I can't ?
You neglect to take care of the tree itself? These trees have been here for decades. They also don't lean in the direction of my house and are actually closer to the sidewalk. They just have wide branches that touch the front part of my roof. I don't mind trimming the tree. I just was wondering if I can get on a ladder and do it myself.
Not cutting down the tree. I don't live somewhere tropical that gets storms. It's dry and hot, and the sun will scorched earth my house... I pick up all the fallen branches and throw them out.
You should remove every tree capable of shedding or falling on your house. Trees tend to be neglected by the clueless then cost their owner painfully large amounts of money. There is no pragmatic reason to want trees within damage range of your roof. They spew organic material, clog gutters and drop branches or the whole tree through your roof and perhaps you at inconvenient times.
Those who ignore this tend to show up on Craigslist offering free wood out of desperation because they foolishly nurtured their green enemies. Fell the tree, remove the corpse, prevent respawn.
My bro ignored my warnings. He also failed to have full coverage on his truck which was fine until his tree crushed the bed. He listens now.
Every inch of balcony used to be covered in latex paint. Got it all off, involving lots and lots of chemicals and scraping. First the top layer, came off relatively easily with boiling water. Then there was a hardened bottom later I had to treat with strong paint thinner, then boiling water and scouring cream. Then there was a white staining of the tiles (you can see it in the little cleaned strip on the left), that required alcohol+vinegar, sprayed on for 5 minutes, then scrubbed off with stainless steel brush and boiling water.
All that is left now is these up and down trails, presumably from the cleaning process. How do I finally completely clean up the bricks. I would of course love it if I could restore them to a somewhat pristine condition, if that's not possible at least getting rid of the trails would be nice.
Does anyone know how to source an ignition coil replacement for a 2 stroke motor? Old engine and the original ignition coil isn't manufactured anymore and has no replacement manufactured either.
Motor in question is a mantis rototiller sv 4b
Looks like the magneto off the 1 to 2 hp Subaru's. Google "EH025 magneto" for more pics.
That looks like a ton of different ignition coils for small 2 strokes. They’re all super similar but you gotta find the correct bolt pattern.
While we wait for anon to get back to us on if it'll fit how about you pitch in a few possible candidates of your own instead of pointing out the obvious and telling them to google a dead part number.
Take the coil off and post a pic. There’s tons of options still around but you’re missing something more from the model # maybe.
It's part number is 15062611521, pic related is from the tillers manual.
How to refill hydraulic floor jack that has such weird opening?
The floor jacks manual should tell you how
What is that orange cap in tbe pic?
>how to source an ignition coil
Google is a good place to start. You know the model of the machine and the part you need, go find it.
I know the part, it's discontinued and not manufactured anymore. The thing is originally from 1997 too so replacements are few and far between
Is there any site that gives bolt patterns for different ignition coils, or what sort of modifications would I need to do to swap one from another two stroke
Find a schematic with the correct part # that is disco’d, then plug that into the google machine. Often you can find chink replacements for the part # but you will never find it with the model # of the tiller.
Ereplacementparts dot com has good schematics with the OE replacement part #, then cross reference with that.
Thanks for the site reference, this will probably come in handy. Unfortunately they didn't have one for my part
Take a pic of the coil and attached wires not behind the flywheel
Not home rn so can't get a new pic but it has two wires, one leading to the spark plug and the other a control wire so if it's ungrounded it sparks and if it's grounded it doesn't (or it's supposed to, ignition coil is broken tested w/ multimeter and spark tester). Connected to a on/off switch
Looks like you may have to put a little terminal on a wire and run with one like pic related assuming the bolt pattern looks the same.
Pic related claims it fits the HC-1500 Type 2E
Thanks I appreciate the help I'll try this out
And this is the OE discontinued model, it claims it fits your tiller and also fits the HC-1500 Type 2E.
If you have Prime, it’s easy enough to return the shit if it doesn’t fit.
These both even seem to have some locating pins on the metal part near the bolt holes that look really close.
Here’s more model #s that seem to use the same coil.
Dammit
Plugging in the SV-4b gives a blow up with this part #, but your pic is too hard to see because it’s just a flywheel.
So I accidentally sat on my glasses and broke them.
Pic related is what connects the top part of the frame and the bottom that frames around the lens(this is not part of the hinge)
Pic related shows the bottom portion of the frame screw hole was broken off.
I can't go to the glasses store until Monday, and even then it'll probably take 3-4 days for it to be shipped and on my face.
So I was wondering if anyone know what is probably the best kind of adhesive or w.e. to use to keep this shit together.
I need something that'll stick and cures into something very hard to make sure my lens is fit snug in the frame.
I was thinking of using super glue, but wondering if anyone had any suggestions for anything else that might work better.
Be careful with the glue because you might wreck the lens.
The bottom part that cracked with the threads on it, is it >50% left? Or about half or less? If you still have >50% left, you could try a cheap glasses repair kit with a couple screws and see if the next larger size screw will grab the remaining threads enough to keep it together til Monday.
I would almost rather try to wrap it with thin fishing line before getting super glue that close to the lens. If you do superglue it, you really need to clamp it down quickly and accurately while it dries
Just eyeballing it, it looks like it's at least 50%, probably more. It doesn't contain the screw at all.
I don't really care if it damages my glasses at this point, only need it to stay together long enough for my replacements to come in.
But yeah. I'll see if tying fishing line is an option.
Check out picrel too
Damn so your driveway is sunken? That sucks. There has to be something you can do with rocks or bricks for a foot or so on either way of the driveway to make it look better.
I still think you should take the original one off and get a better look at it. Depending where you order from, you could message the seller with info about yours and ask for more precise measurements
No gaps on the other side, just a fence between me and my neighbor. I just want a person or animal to get caught in there. Is it safe to fill with rocks? Or should I be filling with dirt?
Maybe rocks would be better? I’m not sure. If you do dirt and the grass is higher than your driveway, you will be constantly edging and stuff to keep the dirt and grass off the driveway.
You could think about bricks or pavers, like those ones people put around trees to divide the mulch from the grass, or even that plastic garden liner stuff to try and fill in the gap and keep the dirt off the driveway.
There is a huge narrow gap between my driveway and the law, and it's just a hole. The lawn is also leveled above my driveway so it's already a bad enough tripping hazard. Should I fill the hole with rocks or dirt?
Is it intentional?
It's similar to pic related, but there's a deep hole.
Any advice on how to engrave metal without the end product becoming cringy?
Guys....a bunch of yellow jackets have started to go inside my shed. Is it over? Do I just call pest control or wait until winter? Nothing important is in it yet....I don't want to have to sprint for my dear life.
Go out there real early on a cooler morning and spray the shit out of the nest. If you soak it with something good, they will be on their way to hell before they wake up enough to come at you.
What am I suppose to be spraying it with? Should I get protective clothing?
I believe it’s pic related that shoots a good jet like 10’+ easily. You might want a second can if you think it’s real bad because these things are like a fire extinguisher and empty out quite fast.
Go out there at the asscrack of dawn, especially if there’s one night that is cooler. They don’t even wake up until about an hour after it starts getting light. So you don’t have to worry really. Hell, you could go in at like 2-3am when it’s still dark. Open the door to the shed, pinpoint where they’re making nests, and soak that shit with the spray as soon as you see where they’re at. You won’t even really have to go in because those cans have good range. By the time they start crawling out because of the spray, they will be dropping on the ground.
How can I prevent them fromt coming back?
Not that homosexual and have not confirmed it take this like you heard it from a guy at the bar, I've heard leave the nests alone. The presence of the nest keeps them from making one.
Can anyone identify this plug? It looks like it is the male end. It is a 'Bosch E-Bike System Plug' of some type. Googling that phrase gets me a whole bunch of different plugs and a lot of results about usb mini-A to micro-A, but I want to find or make an usb A to whatever matches this plug.
never mind, I found it,
>MJ-6290
New home owner here, and never ran into this before. My parents homes toilets always came clean no matter how long I left em go. So, a few questions
Number one and really most important to me is, any tricks? Specific soaps to use or whatever to get rid of this ring? I left it go oh, about a month before cleaning it live alone 2 bathrooms both have the issue however. I know I could Google it but sometimes hive mind is way better some mom out there has figured this out perfectly. House did not have these rings when I purchased it, but was occupied by an older lady b4 me so perhaps she simply cleaned it far more often.
Other question is, is this because I was going by if it's yellow methods? Not knowing how expenses would go, I've been about that life only to learn my water bill for the quarter was 8 bucks and it's not worth thinking about will stop that
Or, is it perhaps what's in the water in my municipality? Like I said I haven't seen this issue when living with my parents so I figure something changed, is this kinda like a hard water type thing?
Thanks in advance
Scrub it hard with some bleach or baking soda and vinegar.
If you're the type of person not to constantly scrub your toilet, I suggest getting one of those blue droppers you throw in your tank. They not only help fight stains, but they keep it smelling good.
They did actually have one in there when I moved in and I'm definitely not the type to do that. Pic related is the state of my living room
>your moronic! Your theory was correct!
Okay
You're moronic for pissing in a stinky toilet all month. At least you worked out that it's not a good way to live, the water savings are minuscule. Just stop showering, that'll cut those bills down.
It's how my dad lives he's never had issues although I'd flush it when I lived with him. Also yes it is stinky I'm pretty sure my liver is failing that's what Google said anyway and makes sense I drink like 20 beers a day.
>Other question is, is this because I was going by if it's yellow methods?
Yes, you moron. The salts from your piss are depositing on the toilet as you leave them sitting there for 12+ hours a day, and probably getting more concentrated as you piss more.
Scrub it off, and start flushing after you piss, you animal.
I want to cut the tree branches on the top of my house, myself, but I don't have a need for a ladder. Like if I buy it, I'll only ever use it once.
Is it normal for people with men in their households to own ladders? Can you rent ladders? I might just say no to the arborists if I get an estimate and it's over 200$
Bruh, do you have any friends or family that might have a ladder?
No. I just moved here. All I have is myself. I've talked to 3 of my neighbors at least.
And none of them have ladders? Man, you live around some real homosexuals.
Honestly, just buy one. You'll need it again in a few years when the branches grow back anyway.
I didn't ask yet, I was just wondering if its normal to ask ladders. Might just buy one, easier than convincing a man to lend a 100lb female a ladder to climb on the roof.
Menards and other tool rental places rent ladders for cheap but you literally said you don't have a need for a ladder while having a need for a ladder
Buy an aluminum one and leave it outside against your house
Okay. I actually think I'll start doing some tree pruning as well and try to help the tree.
what is the polarity on these ones?
I would like suggestions for a home stereo/ speaker system to work with tv/ ps5 and PC gaming. I need an amplifier too for bass shakers. Wondering if someone sells powered speakers with an amplifier out that would eliminate the need for a standalone receiver.
I recently bought Klipsch RM-41/RM-50 powered speakers for my PS5/TV. Went on the same search you did. Fantastic sound for around 300$ that I was able to get off Amazon. Apparently you can connect a powered subwoofer to it too without an amplifier and they have one recommended of the same type.
Nice, thanks for the suggestion.
>be me
>Making a patio.
>pull weeds
>flatten soil
>get distracted for a week with other work
>weeds grow back
Wtf? Is it really necessary to pull them all up again? I could easily destroy them with my tiller, then flatten, then tamp, then put weed paper down.
I have these old lawnmowers that are just sitting in my backyard.
Is there anything I can do with these or should I just scrap them?
Fallout taught me that you can make machetes and flaming machetes with them
Im not looking for any weird larp shit, just want to know what are some things I can do with these mowers since they're taking up space in my backyard
Now your grass?
I already have an electric mower that im currently using. I was thinking of an RC lawnmower so I can mow the grass without leaving the house, however it makes way more sense to use an electric mower for something like that. Can I use the old engines within these gas mowers for something or does it make more sense to scrap everything?
use the motor to convert a bicycle to gasoline power.
They’re the wrong orientation for that.
Make them the right orientation.
Am I always supposed to feel like a moron using these?
yeah, basically.
i have a shortwave radio that needs 6vdc but the only power cable that fits is 19vdc. can i plug it in or is that moronic?
Just get some old wall wart and put a new plug on the end
It's moronic. Voltage has to be within spec, current is the one that doesn't matter as long as you've got enough.
what if it's undervolted? could i use a 5v power supply
It won't break anything, but it might not work. I assume you've checked polarity, most shit is center positive but you never know.
Made one of these. Is the air filter itself off-gassing because new or something? Notice right away the air quality is really heavy. The fan doesn't smell or feel hot
I want to install a solar panel kit to charge a LiFe battery so I can hook up a standard light switch to power a pair of LED ceiling lights in my shed.
The two lights would use 120 watts
The solar kits come in 20-100 watt varieties.
How do I figure out how many amp hours battery I need, and how many watts for the kit?
I dont plan on using the lights for more than 20 minutes a night. Just in an out. weekends mostly
After trimming on thick bushy weeds in my yard, should I get some weed killer to pour on it or something?
I have a lot of wood cookies, and other odd size wood trimming that I need to store in my shed to dry. I am thinking of using lava rocks to separate the pieces so there is airflow between them.
will lava rocks act as a desiccant?
My bags of quick set cement says I have to put the water in before the cement mix but I've got a 10cm layer of gravel in the hole.
Am I supposed to just put water in there until it's filling up to the top of the gravel, and then put the amount of water required for the cement or what?
Just mix it in a bucket to the right consistency and then put it in the hole.
Alright well that's done
How long am I supposed to wait before placing my sleepers?
Sup PrepHole, got a question. My AC furnace is in the same cabinet as my water heater due to no room in the attic. I was wondering if a water drip on top of the heater is a big deal or bot. It gets pretty close to the wires so I assume not. If not, any tips on preventing this from happening besides using a bowl like pic related?
Nevermind, previous owner never cleaned the drain. A simple unplug did the trick, will buy some wire brushes and a shopvac tomorrow. Good luck to the rest of you.
Are the Titans of CNC courses any good? I want to get a job as a CNC programmer
>CNC Programmer
I'm actually doing a cert soon to become a database analyist, if that fails cause of the "Muh AI" meme becoming I might hop over to being a CNC programmer.
I've got some paving slabs that were mortared down to a couple of brick steps, but they've all broken off over time. What's the best bet for sticking them back down? Mortar? Concrete? Should I remove all the existing stuff or not?
what tool do i need to remove these nuts? there's various diameters and sizes of this type of nut on this pair of old binoculars i bought
i want to clean up the dirt and mold and get the diopters working again
I've never taken binoculars apart/don't know how tight those are installed, but I would try a hammer and chisel first. If that works without significant damage great. If not, I would make that custom with a cheap set of relevant sized sockets, and a grinder and cut off wheels.
My parents never change the filters when they need too and its fricking up my sinuses and blowing a shit ton of dust into my room that I'm tired of vacuuming. I bought some vent block magnets but I dout that would be enough. Is there a filter or an additional blocker I can put on the vent so air doesn't get through?
>My parents never change the filters when they need too and its fricking up my sinuses and blowing a shit ton of dust into my room that I'm tired of vacuuming.
You need to be 18 to post here.
>I bought some vent block magnets but I dout that would be enough. Is there a filter or an additional blocker I can put on the vent so air doesn't get through?
How about you buy a filter and just change the filter. They cost 10 dollars. I bet you spent more on your shitty magnet than a 4 pack of filters would have cost.
>You need to be 18 to post here.
I'm about to be 33, see pic related
>How about you buy a filter and just change the filter. They cost 10 dollars. I bet you spent more on your shitty magnet than a 4 pack of filters would have cost.
they are control-freaks, they would rather things fall apart on their watch than someone else fix it without their permission.
>I'm about to be 33
how incredibly sad.
Nah, its only sad if you buy into what society shills to you.
>Nah, its only sad if you buy into what society shills to you.
>I'm much better asking for advice on an anonymous basket weaving forum as a 33 year old man on how to block the registered in my room since fixing the root cause of the problem (Which is easier and cheaper) will cause mommy and daddy to get mad at me, and if that happens they might not give me dinner.
>gets mad
lmfao, seethe more wagie, there are tons more people like me that will eventually drag you down.
Just put packing tape over the register, lardo
trips checked, also not fat, not that you would believe me anyway. Also why are you calling it a register and not a vent?
Was gonna tell you to frick off because nta, but lived with my parents till 29 saved up and bought a house but Jesus christ I guess I'm an outlier. Frick that guy
>but lived with my parents till 29 saved up and bought a house but Jesus christ I guess I'm an outlier. Frick that guy
>Imagine being so privleged that you lived in a time where it was incredibly easy to buy a house and anyone after you who can't is a bad person.
Total Boomer Death, litearlly just covert campaign leftists.
I love it when people who work for a living but hate their job seethe at someone who just doesn't, its just proof that not working and dragging everyone down with you in this sinful society is the objective moral choice. Why don't you guys go, iunno, pay your taxes so the Government can go waste it on 3rd world nations and Ukraine, suckers.
When did I say I hate my job? Im
When did I say it? Tell me or admit you're wrong. I love what I do you dum homosexual I break world records doing what I do. So point it out that I hate it. How much I hate being the best at what I do show me. You can't homosexual. Millions have seen me on television and YouTube, in magazines and everything for what I've done. You'll always be less than me.
very defensive for someone who doesn't hate their job, anon. I totally believe you. Now, if you will excuse me, I have to go to bed early to get up and not go to my job :^).
Tell me how that was defensive.
if that doesn't read as defensive to you, you migh thave autism.
*yawn* this eminates small dick energy, no one cares how much money you make for how long you work, thinking that I care about such trival things as money shows how hollowed out of a human you are, now back into the mine wagie.
Ohhhh you don't realize I got there making less than minimum wage. 200 bucks a week for 40 hours. That was a decade ago. Stop sucking dick is all I got man you can make it
I want to deep clean my window AC unit but every video I watch on the subject seems to be from people who use a back yard where they can disassemble it in and hose things down nice and clean and then sun dry everything. I live in an old apartment building where I have no access to a lawn/porch/anything to get close to touching grass so can't really do that.
What are my options?
Obviously moving somewhere else but other than that, how can I clean it? Pic related. Not sure if it's too far gone or if it's worth cleaning. Don't know if it is mold or just dust.
FRA064AT7
6000 BTU
Manufactured 2012
Assuming this is moldy and too far gone and needs replacing, how do I shop for models that are easy to keep clean and have parts that are mold resistant and made to last? I'm not sure if styrofoam is good or bad but I assume it can't be thoroughly cleaned and I assume that's kind of bad but I know it's a good insulator so I can see why it would be used but if there's anything more premium and mold proof that would be nice to know about.
Looks like dust to me, and it's not even that bad. I'd run it until it dies and stop being autistic about a bit of dirt.
>Noooo you can't just want clean air you gotta inhale the recycled heckin dirt!!
>clean air
have a nice day, israelite golem.
That is dust, mold looks different.
You are fine.
>this is moldy and too far gone and needs replacing
Have you tried wiping off the dust?
I tried wiping it off a while ago, maybe last year or so on the vents but kind of forgot about it after failing to do a thorough job and not wanting to remove the front panel to get inside it.
If it's dust that's good, however when I let it sit for a while and then kick it on it has a musty odor that goes away if I leave it running. So long as the fan keeps pushing air it doesn't stink but when I use it in eco mode it accumulates some kind of stink that it ejects whenever it kicks on. Sometimes that makes me sneeze. If that's not caused by what's in my pictures, is that probably caused by the bottom floor of it where condensation accumulates being dirty?
I guess I still need to clean that but not sure how to do it indoors, the whole place has carpet and the bathroom and kitchen which have vinyl flooring (waterproof) are tiny as hell. If anyone has advice for cleaning ACs in a mini apartment I'm all ears. The AC is too big to fit in my bathtub and I don't wanna damage my tub with the boxy metal so not sure what to do for that bit.
Clean your filter.......
I do that regularly whenever the check filter light comes on.
>power off AC
>vacuum filter
>turns from light grey back to pure white
>insert back in
>power back on
Like every two weeks or so.
If I'm feeling extra, I get some soap and warm water to give it a thorough wash but it doesn't seem to matter much.
A bunch of black billed magpies were littered all over my house, lawn and trees today. What can I do to keep them coming back?
So i want to fix my roof since its starting to leak and rainy season will start soon.
Is plastic or white cement good enough or should i spend money on a fancy roof sealant?
I'd like to 3D-print a suit of power armor for a costume. Are there any free STL files for full suits of armor that I could use as a reference?
1) ask /cgl/
2) You don't know enough about 3d printing if you're asking that question. It would be unbelievably costly, you don't know how to manage 3d printing on that scale if you're asking, and you don't know how many iterations you'd have to do to get it right (see previous)
Invest in Bondo, plywood, and cardboard. 3d print the details.