i avoid facebook and i am wondering how to advertise a moving/delivery ad towards boomers on facebook marketplace.
it should be free to advertise on marketplace, correct?
I tried googling instructions and i could only find information on
>posting something for sale on marketplace
>buying adspace on facebook.
anyone familiar with fb maket place?
i live in a city and my target audience is actually young people without cars and indians/asians who only drive compact cars
MATTHIAS!
You want to post something for sale. Buying adspace will cost you money, but that one maybe you can target those boomers more.
Also boomers love NextDoor if you have that app/site in your country. People are always shilling their handyman services there, and boomers are always asking “Who knows a good mechanic?” Or “who knows a good mover?” and you can reply to those posts.
>how to advertise a moving/delivery ad towards boomers
Church Bulletins. It's inexpensive and you're going to get a lot of eyeballs.
is there a cheaper option than buying pre-wrapped insulated duct? it's like $50 for a 25-foot length. the duct is cheap and insulation is cheap, couldn't I just make my own?
replacing my bathroom fan and I have pretty much everything I need except the duct.
I can't see why you'd need insulated duct for an exhaust fan. You're right, just go for the cheap duct.
the exhaust duct is supposed to be insulated because condensation or some shit.
based bald guy said so.
This guy is the biggest hack I've seen in my life. He constantly gives bad, if not dangerous advice.
Hm who should I believe, anonymous internet guy or guy with tons of experience in home repair and remodeling..really tough call here.
anonymous internet guy. experience isn't measured in weight.
you're right, it's measured in time spent actually doing shit, which I will bet my entire house that guy has more clocked than you
the guy is right, and yes, you can make your own. However, you want to make sure it doesn't move off. Air flowing through the vents will cause movement over years, and insulation can shift out of place.
well, after trying to price it out, buying enough insulation material (two 5-foot sleeves) will put me at about $40 and the duct itself is $15, so it's cheaper and faster anyways to get the 25-foot length.
I got in the attic today and measured that it's only 6 feet from the exhaust fan to the roof vent, so I'll be left with almost 20 feet that I'll have no use for (every other bathroom has a window).
Frick this, I'm just gonna install the duct with no insulation.
I seriously suggest you go with the insulation. It's a headache and mold and mildew and bullshit you will deal with later. Its not worth it bro.
the exhaust fan I'm replacing vented through a plastic corrugated dryer vent for years and I never had condensation issues, and there's not a spot of mold in my attic or bathroom. Maybe because it's such a short run?
That's probably the case, unless it's a really thick metal. Is it that older square sheet metal stuff? That has a surprisingly higher R value than the shit alum they use today.
>older square sheet metal stuff
>plastic corrugated dryer vent
just run 4" corrugated flex pipe. it doesn't need to be fancy.
>t. knower (HVAC installer)
That's a shitty looking missile launcher
Any air rifle target ideas to make out of junk and scrap steel?
I want to make something so that
1) it catches the pellet
2) I don't have to keep buying or making paper targets and changing them
3) either an audible or visual cue that I hit the bull which differs to the rest
Steel plate suspended in the opening of a steel drum
Blonk for miss
Plink for hit
Paint the small plate white or red for visibility
I had one just like it
No dice, not got a drum, got some rusty bent sheet, box section, and a few other things.
Was wondering how hard a spinner would be to make?
theres a reusable putty you can get. and line a box with it. thats for bb's and avoids ricocjet. for lead pellets just use a metal pellet trap. or several layers of hanging carpet.
The problem is It doesn't give an audible or visual indicator?
I made a simple sloped plate that directs incoming pellets into a trap beneath that works ok but it needs a paper target and has no bull indictor which is the problem I'm trying to solve.
The carpet idea is nice though.
Make one out of 18g steel shets.
24" tall, 8" deep at the top and 18" deep at the bottom.
weld a piece of steel rod from side to side and hang spoons that you have flattened out and heated up and wrapped around the rod so when the air rifle hits it it pings and the spoons just spin a bit.
weld a front piece along the bottom that is at least 6" tall. Fill the box with sand.
Honestly, just buy one. They make little traps with a row of targets and a reset lever.
I have been informed that when making a drainage system you are not supposed to use geofabric with clay soil. Correct?
So in that case what do I do, just put the soil over the drainage gravel and hope my pipe doesn't get clogged up too quickly?
>So in that case what do I do
not sure about the first question, but when I was on a road crew, how we did the drainage was.
lay the fabric.
layer of the gravel
lay your pipe on top of the gravel
another layer of gravel
make sure no pipe is showing
wrap one side of fabric over the middle of the gravel
wrap the other side of fabric over the middle and previous wrap
toss the dirt on there
I cut a hole to put a skylight into my roof. It's a pretty clean cut but what is the best sealant to keep it water tight?
>the best sealant
Learn how water flows and how shingles or roof tiles work and go from there. Little or nothing has to be "sealed" if you understand how water and gravity interact.
Actual answer:
The best sealant is 3M 5200 Fast Cure
>I cut a hole to put a skylight into my roof.
ha!
I love how you only decided to think about how to seal the opening AFTER cutting the hole in your roof.
You're sort of a "jump first and figure out the landing on your way down" kind of guy, huh?
Honestly, I'm envious.
I struggle to even get started on a project when there's some unresolved detail in like step 25 that I haven't figured out.
>go to pop off the fibreglass sheet from the glass panel i was using
>as i'm peeling the fibreglass sheet off, i see finger-sized chunks of gelcoat tearing off at multiple points because its completely stuck to the glass
frick off frick off frick off frick off frick off
what did i even do wrong here?
why can't i even make the simplest fricking fibreglass shape in existence
frick
Is there a diy mixture for carpet adhesive stripper? I just bought 2L tin of pricey commercial stripper but i'm running out pretty quick. I was thinking to just try pure acetone or are there better options? I have concrete flooring if that matters.
What's typically behind these kinds of masonry walls?
Cement block?
If a rodent gets behind or above the stone and mortar, how far can they go?
do these walls use a smaller size aggregate in the concrete?
This is probably not a stupid question, but i would still hate to make a separate thread for it.
This is a house. It's a bedroom with an attached bathroom that has a window AC in the bathroom. No shower or bath, just a toilet and a sink.
There is a mystery contaminant in here that causes heart or lung symptoms(i haven't been able to find the problem on an ecg or holter monitor, so i'm starting to think it's a lung issue not a heart issue).
I have been trying to filter the contaminant out with a hepa filter but it doesn't seem to catch it.
I cough every now and then and the symptoms get better, so i think it's getting captured in the mucus.
So i'm trying to just wet a strip of toilet paper and plaster it on the intake of the filter housing without a real filter in it and see if that catches it.
The question is. What the frick is it catching that the hepa filter can't catch?
Pull that AC unit apart and look for mold in there?
Already did. Disassembled it and cleaned it out thoroughly.
I assumed it was mold from the jump and destroyed every source of mold.
But more importantly, the hepa filter explicitly says its rated for mold.
Tear the room down to studs. I would assume that you have black mold everywhere. You must remove every contaminated object and start from scratch.
its classic for window AC units to be improperly tilted and grow mold on the inside. And mold spores are tiny. tiny tiny. even HEPA struggles with it.
I looked up the existence of "wet filters", and a few minutes of looking says that titanium and magnesium may not be captured by a hepa filter. But what the frick is titanium or magnesium doing in my room? I am not building an airplane in here.
The KGB has been in there, them and the glowies are monitoring you.
What is it about spies that they can be defeated with simple bullshit like tinfoil hats and wet toilet paper?
Everything i look up says that wetting a filter is bad for its operation, not good.
>Everything i look up says that wetting a filter is bad for its operation, not good.
makes it more attractive to mold spores though i bet
Perhaps, but the hepa filter i have, which is not some bullshit i slapped together myself with random crap from around my house, is supposed to be able to filter it. I have tried multiple filters and perhaps they're all lying about being able to capture mold, but i doubt it.
nah i doubt that too, hepa filters are a godsend in vacuums and air conditioners. standalone units haven't made as great of a difference in my experience. do you say it's not capturing mold because the room still fricks you up or something else? and does the wet layer over the intake make the room better?
The room is still fricking me up. And yeah, the wet layer is actually working. I occasionally peel it off and throw it in the toilet and put a new application on.
I want to like... take the toilet paper and put it in a bag and send it to lab and politely ask them what the frick but i'm not sure where to send it.
Do you remember that time in total recall where he wrapped a wet towel around his head?
I'm building a paver patio. I'm doing concrete edging, and polymeric sand between the pavers.
The issue is there's a ton of rain in the forecast. So:
1) For concrete, how long after I set it can it get rained on?
2) For the polymeric sand, my main concern is having damp pavers. I can cover them with plastic but that will also mean it takes longer to dry. How can I dry the pavers off faster before I put the sand on? How dry do they have to be?
3) Any other rain-related problems/solutions I need to know about?
You are a slave to the weather forecast. So I install paver patios professionally and one thing that you have to keep in mind is that depending upon the brand of polymeric sand you are using: if it rains on it you will have uneven curing that translates to odd coloration and a mess one or two years down the road.
Do the job right and then cover it over with plastic. Stake the edges down and let that stuff cure. It should be a chemical cure, so you just need to be patient. Good work is never in haste.
a couple more stupid questions for paver patios:
1) Am I supposed to tamper/compact the leveling sand before I put pavers on it? The internet is giving conflicting advice on this.
2) They say to use 1 inch of leveling sand. I got the ground pretty smooth but it will have some slight high/low spots. Is it better to err on it being too much or too little? Like is having 0.5" of sand in some spots better or worse than it being 1.5"?
More paver patio questions:
I screeded the sand but had to take a break for a few days before I can lay the pavers. Do I need to wet the sand at all before laying pavers or is it okay if it dries out?
Other question: Pros/Cons of polymeric sand in between paver joints instead of all-purpose sand. Polymeric is very expensive. Also, since this is a basic DIY project, I'm thinking there will be pavers I'll have to fix in a year or two. How hard is it to go back and fix a patio after the polymeric sand has already set?
How long will it take for this Chinese pressure cooker bomb filled with mineral oil to kill me?
>claims it draws 4 amps
>draws 7A, closer to 8A at startup
>no fuse that I can see
>Chinese pressure cooker bomb filled with mineral oil
What is it? Never use cute descriptions.
It’s a smoke machine leak tester.
Smoke machines have heating elements. If the duty cycle is roughly 50% then it's normal that it draws 8A while it claims 4A. Wires, especially the MTW or TEW kinds, can easily draw bigger currents than rated for short times.
I want to put tie down rings in the trunk of my car to strap down cargo. I'm just gonna drill through the floor of my trunk and hit the holes with some spray paint or something to stop rust, but how can I make clean holes through the trunk mat?
pic related but not mine, it's just a similar and pretty thick material with a rubber bottom. it's not the typical thin carpet fabric, it's something thicker. I think I can use a leather punch or just a knife to make the holes themselves, but I feel like the edges are going to start fraying if I don't seal the edges of the holes I cut with something. could I use heat? or is there some kind of grommet made for this? they would have to be pretty big to fit the tie down, like 2" diameter.
If you've got (or can get) a soldering iron or gun, use an old tip to melt the cut edges. Depending on the material, you may be able use it to cut the holes in the first place.
any good solutions for getting a metal thread into a plastic part?
i have a SNES with a loose AV cable. the cable is fine, its relatively new and from a retro enthusiast manufacturer. its most likely the plug on the SNES thats worn out.
i was looking for broken units to salvage the plug from but morons on ebay want as much for a broken SNES as i paid for my working one just a couple years ago.
so my plan was to design and 3D print a little sleeve around the AV cable end so i can screw it into the console. basically like how old VGA cables had screws on the side.
problem is, i dont want to screw directly into the plastic. it would inevitably wear out and ruin the part.
so i was thinking, is it possible to get some outer metal thread and somehow insert it securely into the plastic part? i know similar things exist for wood but there isnt much meat to chew into at the back panel of the SNES so im not sure how well those would work.
>i dont want to screw directly into the plastic. it would inevitably wear out and ruin the part.
But you're willing to drill holes into it to put nutserts in? How does that not ruin the part just as much?
If you use screws, and the screw holes wear out and you do end up needing to drill them out and put nutserts in, you're in the same situation as if you put nutserts in in the first place.
Or better yet, replace the broken part with a new one. You don't have to buy a whole broken SNES for one used part ... just buy a new connector.
replacing it is obviously the better option. just wasnt able to find a part. where did you find picrel?
also, i rechecked some measurements and my plan to make a screw on style plug wouldnt work anyways because of lacking clearance. or at least it would be a really really tight fit or id have to get creative. and after all that i have no guarantee it would fix my issue, so replacing the port would be the best choice.
>where did you find picrel?
Are you serious?
I googled "SNES female AV connector" and it was the first result.
tough luck.
Where is the seller located that you can't buy from them? If they're in the US, Canada, or EU I can help you out. If you need it from the EU then it'll be early October before I can get it to the US and shipped out to you
spain to germany. youd think thats not a problem but apparently it is. but ill look into some alternative solutions, thanks for the offer though.
If you're close to a border, you can see what it'd be like to ship it to a PO Box in that country. Or get it shipped to the cheapest hotel possible while you have a little getaway.
You can always message the seller and do the transaction outside of ebay.
what sand should I use for mortar? I bought some quartz sand (no idea what its called in english) with 0.1-0.4mm particle size is that too fine? What are the drawbacks of using it for fixing a small hole?
if anybody here wants to jump over to /b/ right now and help this man with identifying a septic tank/corpse storage hatch on his farm your advice would be welcome
I have a vintage sears VHS camcorder I bought off craigslist for 10 dollars, it is "functional" save the battery does not work, but I expected that. The battery is a 12v 800 mAh sealed lead acid battery, but the camcorder can be powered by clipping the normal wall charger directly into the back of the camera or via a 12V dc barrel plug designed to be used with an adapter you plug in a cigarette lighter. Is there any reason I can't take an existing USB power bank I already have and use something like picrel to "bypass" the battery? I'm 100% sure it's impossible to find real replacement batteries and I'd rather not only be able to use it with a 100' extension cord.
Here's a pic of the camera if that helps.
If the amps are ok then 12vdc should work. Devices were a lot stupider back then.
Just replace the battery with an equivalent lithium battery, maybe get one that comes with a charger.
That's why I was going to use a power bank and adapter, this shit is so old I guarantee you they don't make any drop in replacements. VHS didn't make the comeback like cassette decks/walkmans did
If they sell it like that, go for it. You could probably build your own 3S lithium power bank too if you wanted to, but the pic you posted looks real simple assuming that IC inside the cable can handle the current of the camera. But if the old lead acid battery was only 800mAh, I can’t imagine the camera draws a ton of power unless the battery only lasted for half a tape.
yeah it doesn't pull too much I don't think. My big worry was frying the camera, but the 800mha lead acid battery lasts an hour according to the manual (Lasts 1 standard 60 min tape)
>frying the camera
I bet it would be ok. Charged up, you’re going to be at like 12.5V with a 3S lithium pack, as long as it doesn’t shut off because it thinks the battery is dead when the lithium gets down to 11.0V and below. They would still be sending plenty of current though so maybe you would get a “low battery” signal on the camcorder when you still have like 70% life left on the lithium pack.
Yeah the cable I linked above works fine going from a 20,000mAh battery to the camera, god bless designers working around cigarette lighter plugs, that 12v car battery makes ancient tech easy to power, there's no way batteries exist for this. The battery warning on the cam doesn't even show up.
The battery warning shouldn’t show up with that cable. It probably boosts the 5V power bank up to like 12.5V. If you did your own 3S lithium battery, that’s where you would have to worry about the low battery warning, unless you did some chip to stabilize the voltage. You could also do like an 18650 or 21700 cell or parallel a couple of them plus a boost converter to get up 12.5V.
I built something similar to that cable for this little Zebra printer from work. Wanted a USB charger for it but it wanted some 9V/1A charger with the round plug like your pic, so I took the PC/charger side of a USB mini charging cable, I found some old round plug charger in my junk bin and hacked that off, then stuck a boost converter board in the middle of the two so I could bump the 5V from any USB charger up to 9V. Worked out well.
I lied, the cable will turn on the camcorder, but I didn't test it with a tape in until today. When I insert the tape, I think it draws more amps than the boost cable/battery can unload, (1a max on the voltage booster cable) and it turns itself off, so I guess I'm doing the HF battery trick
You gotta think about the power bank too. If you’re using a small USB power bank with a 5V/1A output, you’re only going to get like 0.4A @ 12V max. If it’s a 2.1A output on the power bank, then you’re gettin 0.8A @ 12V
When I did my little boost converter charger for 9V from USB, it worked but was kind of slow because a 1A car charger was only sending like 0.5A@9V, but that thing still had a battery.
Hopefully the 12V HF pack works, I’m sure it will work when fully charged, just depends what happens when the battery pack gets down to like 10V, whether or not the camera wants to shut down because it thinks it has a low lead acid battery. Do some test and hand onto the receipt before you rip the pack apart.
You could always look for a 4S lithium pack somehow as well, that’s going to give you like 11.5V up to 15.5V depending on the charge. Like a knockoff Snap On 14.4V pack? But those are an odd shape compared to the 12V Warrior pack at Harbor Freight.
>Hopefully the 12V HF pack works
I cut the end off a barrel jack and jammed it into the 12v battery, and it worked. the indicator says "E" on the ccd screen, but it works fine. Now I'm 3d printing a holder for it, and I'm going to attach it to the (hacked apart) old lead battery case so it can truly snap on-off.
Also what were the dimensions of the old lead acid battery?
Pic related is $15 with the charger at HF. If it’s any way similar to the size of the old battery, I bet you could crack off some parts of the plastic power tool battery case, maybe use a couple alligator clips, and jam a 12V power tool battery inside the camera and connect the two power contacts.
lmao this is a 1985 ish VCR recorder, the battery is 2 pin, 6 x 2 1/2 x 7/8 and has a sort of slide lock mechanism that connects to a button on the camcorder itself to release it. I'm sure I could hack a HF battery to bits (I actually have that exact drill to ghetto turn a drill-powered water pump) but if I can buy a 4 dollar cable and it just work with a power bank I'm sure that will be easier.
Good idea though, if the cable doesn't work I can probably 3d print an adapter and with a bit of solder get it to seat/work
Would I be correct in saying that if a refrigerator PTC was crumbled into pieces, then a week later the replacement crumbles into pieces, that means shit's fricked?
If electrification of regular vehicles continues, should diesel engines stick around? To me since we produce so much waste oil products we should use them, combined with the better torque and fuel density of diesel vs batteries. Is there something I'm missing? Why are we not considering electric/diesel mixed fleets for the future? Am I moronic?
Isn’t most plastic a byproduct of oil anyway? More like that, if we still want plastics, what happens with all the lefover oil? Maybe they will start recycling more plastic because it won’t be as cheap to make new plastic if the oil isn’t being pulled from the ground.
Also it’s interesting when you look at the actual distillation results from a barrel of oil. They’re still going to need jet fuel, and a lot of the diesel heavy equipment and all the marine diesel and fuel oil usage won’t switch over nearly as fast as electric cars. So there will be tons of gasoline… which I guess they either use that to power the powerplants to make electricity for cars? Or start retrofitting airplanes to run on gasoline?
Also I don’t think diesel electric likes the changing speed and RPM associated with driving a car in city traffic. It works well for freight trains because they stay at a fairly steady speed. I think you would need a battery bank to run diesel electric in cars comfortably and efficiently. Diesel engines also don’t have a very wide power band like gas engines in cars.
Then what if it's not diesel electric hybrids but a larger granularity of some wholly electric cars and some wholly biodiesel vehicles? Plenty of rednecks and farmers run at least tractors off biodiesel now and the advice I've always seen is to go ask a local restaurant for waste oil and use that.
You are right about petroleum cracking, though. It seems so strange to me that we have biodiesel as an option and we aren't using it. Sure, diesel engines are fundamentally dirtier, but the oil inputs are already floating around as waste. It feels like suggesting that burning trees as firewood is a bad idea: not if you only burn ones that have already fallen over
The water and land use intensity of biodiesel currently makes it cost prohibitive at a national scale. I did a project a while ago that showed you can theoretically do it - provided you repurpose the entire oil seed crop of the country for fuel instead of food. Many countries do require some token amount of biodiesel to be included in fuel mixes, but it’s often under 10%.
But yeah, if we can develop a biofuel oil that is less water and land intensive, it’s viable. There’s a couple of neat ones, some of them more “lab” like that synthesize oil, others that convert grasses into fuel oil-like products. All nifty stuff but not ready for up scaling.
Diesel electrics are actually crazy reliable though. They start losing the weight to efficiency trade off when they get as small as a commuter vehicle. Diesel engines are heavy, so hybrid gas is much more common. There are some hybrid diesel trucks at the vocational truck scale. I don’t know of any that are mass produced tho.
I think diesel electric or at least a hybrid diesel is becoming popular for a lot of city buses as well. The hybrid systems make sense with the stop-go driving they do. I’ve always said hybrid or full plug in electric would be a good way to go for a lot of local route delivery trucks like UPS and Amazon or food and beverage medium duty trucks. They drive <100mi a day, the stop and go driving would make regen braking very efficient, and they come back to a home base every night where they could easily recharge if the facility had the electrical infrastructure. I wouldn’t be surprised to see more of those in the coming years.
Also I have seen a lot more LNG garbage trucks in the past 10 years. Not sure if they’re somehow using a methane blend from the landfills or what.
Ethanol % and biodiesel % has been going up and up in the past couple decades. If you live in the Midwest USA, you might be able to get E-85 fuel for like 30% less than regular 87 octane unleaded. I think it’s still a lot cheaper most places to pull the oil out of the ground, and the cheap 85% ethanol fuel in the Midwest is a byproduct of gov’t subsidies and crops that aren’t 100% going to food.
It could definitely be done if we didn’t have so much oil under our feet and there was a demand for it.
Also check out those woodgas or whatever cars they were doing in the UK some years ago, that was wild.
>the oil inputs are already floating around as waste. It feels like suggesting that burning trees as firewood is a bad idea: not if you only burn ones that have already fallen over
We have all this asbestos lying around, might as well use it.
This is a good point lol
But like burning wood if it's a biological source you have to get the carbon into the plant oil form somehow, which should close the loop. My understanding is that it's not the burning but the extraction without replacement that creates problems.
Where I live I can E15 yeah but my shitty old car can't accept it. The woodgas thing is pretty interesting because I think you end up making charcoal at the other end, too, right? Then you have two useful products
>Is there something I'm missing?
Fossil fuel burning has to stop for climate change reasons.
Not being political here, that's just the regulatory environment.
New to welding, my projects would likely be using a mixture of 1/16 and 1/8 steel pipe. Is Fluxcore appropriate for my needs?
To clarify, this is square steel pipe for home repair stuff. As I understand circular pipe is more difficult.
Do any of you have any experience with work related to LOGISTICS and SUPPLY CHAIN management?
I want to learn something related to administration of warehouses, truck fleets and stuff like that.
Is it worthy or IA gonna take all that in a decade?
How does one come up with the idea to route a cable and its conduit like this instead of straight down?
The yellow thing was there first.
As pointed out, yellow thing was there first, it probably isn't open in the back, and, for an experienced electrician, a couple offset bends like that are literally a single minute of work.
I find it funny because that’s an MDF plank for disabled people to use to walk along the wall, like in a hospital. So the elderly will brush against that conduit every time they pass. If this would be my job, I would run it behind not in front. I wonder if the endless regulations state what to do in such case.
Literally no one cares but you, that's why
Do not reply to this post.
It's clearly and AI post
You can immediately spray the concrete with "curing" agents which are just acrylic sealers to keep the moisture in
Classically, they would flood concrete after a few hours to keep it wet while curing or wet it and cover it with tarps
There's a bunch of ways to cure concrete, you just need to keep the moisture in it so it hardens all the way slowly without cracking
I tamp gravel then tamp sand
If you're using less consistently sized pavers, I would tamp the gravel, then the sand 1/4-1/2" below your target height then screed loose sand over and tap the pavers down with a mallet to lock them in
On an incline, you can only use gravel as a base but this is so rare it doesn't really warrant mentioning.
The biggest concern is drainage under the slab so you don't have earth eroding or frost heave (if applicable)
I'm in Iowa so I do a few inches of gravel and then like 3/4" of sand tamped down and then I gingerly place the pavers
AC motor/transformer from a small AC fan. Was making noise because the tape over the winding was loose and being sucked into the fan blades. Pulled the tape off because originally didn't have access to cut, must have pulled out the one strand shown, now it doesn't run at all.
What can I do?
rewind the coil
It's all bare copper, how does one loose strand kill the whole thing? Shouldn't it just mess with the voltage output?
>how does one loose strand kill the whole thing?
this. a car knocked down our power line and we lost all the power in our house. How fricking incompetent is our local utility to rely on one line per house.
Nah I think motor windings are enameled so current runs through one wire all the way around a million times.
Jesus frick it is. How do they get a coating so thin to standup to the winding process?
Testing. It's worked since the 1800s.
>Jesus frick it is. How do they get a coating so thin to standup to the winding process?
Maybe motor repair is not in your future anon.
I guess they found the correct material that’s thin enough to insulate the wires but still allow a lot of magnetic field to get through.
This too. I’m sure you hook the thing up right after winding and a certain % will have damage to the insulation somewhere and those go back to the winding machine and the rest go out to barely make it past the warranty period.
>a certain % will have damage to the insulation somewhere
I assume there's some amount of inconsequential damage to the insulation.
For a short to occur on a winding, the damage to the insulation would either have to be significantly large, or many multiple areas of damage, along with some amount of bad luck, for an uninsulated section of wire to just happen to come into contact with another uninsulated section of wire in the winding.
There's probably some amount of damage that can be reliably tolerated (like an inch every foot or something, but probably not that much) because then it's just "bad luck" if one of the uninsulated areas happens to contact another uninsulated area.
First of all, you are replying to the village idiot. Having said that, magnet wire is fully capable of surviving all ordinary winding processes, and there are not "a certain %" that fail, which is clear if you've ever had to strip magnet wire - the insulation is rather tough. The only thing that is kinda hard to wind is a toroid, which is why they were done by hand until only recently. Windings like the one that the dummy is trying to fix are wound separately and then the entire winding assembly is put onto the lamination stack. In pic related you can see where the lam assembly that the winding fits on is joined to the outer lam assembly. Transformers use Es and Is to do the same thing. In all these examples there is no reason for the magnet wire to get scraped or damaged during assembly.
>and there are not "a certain %" that fail
I didn't say there was any percent that fails. I said the opposite.
I said that the windings are likely quite tolerant of small amounts of insulation damage, so there's NOT many that fail even if the insulation isn't 100% perfect.
I’m saying I’m sure a certain % fails quality control originally before it even gets put into shit, but I’m sure the insulation they use is good enough to make that a very small % because the extra cost on good insulation has to be cheapet than rewinding 5% of the motors at the factory.
Also I have a 25% off HF coupon because they miss me, what should I buy?
>Also I have a 25% off HF coupon because they miss me, what should I buy?
buy less stuff, spend less time working, send less money off to china
>spend less time working
But I got shit to do. Currently waiting for spackle to dry because I’m cleaning up the hallway around the stairs. The new air handler put a couple scratches in the wall, plus there’s this spot at the top of the stairs that overlooks the staircase, it’s just like 4’ tall with a ledge about 6” across and it’s all drywall and my fat shit cat likes to jump up there and digs his claws in when he lands. I’m trying to figure out what I could put there that would look nice and keep the cat off.
Pic related, wtf could I put there to displace a fat cat?
why would you want to displace fat cat? he is not knocking over expensive harbor freight equipment, is he?
Not at that location, but the scratch marks on the paint are annoying.
When he’s in the garage, that’s where the Harbor Freight & Amazon equipment is at risk.
I’m going to put that fat shit back out on the street where I found him!
Look how fat he is! There’s weight restrictions on these stairs!
why do you use a tripcode?
Leave cat alone. He needs a perch.
Frick off it's his now
The large wooden dolly was a good deal when I last checked. Combine it with 5 Greenmade totes from Costco and you have a rolling tower of storage.
I moved an upright piano on two of them.
Because he wants to, apparently,
He's been here a long time and posts a lot.
Seems like a minor thing.
>SQT
Kev! post pics of that truck! What year is it?
the implied question is why does he want to
You are correct anon. It's a common practice to have one tiny wire bringing the current in, and then 200 wires shorted together for the coil, because that's where the work is done. No insulation could withstand the assembly process.
t. motor designer
I have Nylon washers which need the holes enlarged from 1/4 to 8mm
I dont want to damage the washer as its a sliding surface.
Whats the best way to hold them without destroying or otherwise altering them?
Take two scrap pieces of plywood, whatever square or rectangle size that’s 1”-2” wider than the washers.
Drill 1/4” hole through the center of two scrap pieces of plywood.
Sandwich washers between pieces of plywood, stick a 1/4” drill bit or anything through both holes on the plywood to keep everything aligned, then drop 2-3 clamps around the edges of the sandwich. Pull 1/4” drill bit out, get 8mm drill bit, send it into the 1/4” hole and go straight through the sandwich.
At least that’s my idea if I were trying to do it witbout messing up plastic washers with the clamping or vise or anything.
What's a cheap way to have precise increments in the translation control of a part ?
Looking at something that can move until some condition is met. This condition can be met at different positions along the same axis, and is easy to miss (and fricks up the process if missed), so I need precise control of the position of the part.
What maintenance should be done to an apartment?
I might find myself in a position of owning an apartment unit soon, and I don't know jack about shit about how to maintain a property or do any type of manual handyman labour
All I know is to throw a coat of paint on it from time to time, I guess like once a year. But other than that I don't know anything about working with pipes or electricity, or anything like that.
>and I don't know jack about shit about how to maintain a property or do any type of manual handyman labour
Good news, apartment owners pay "Property management companies" to do this stuff. You'll be rolling in money, so you should be focusing more on a business plan, the legal aspects, rather than how to fix sinks and shit. Find a local handyman or company and form a relationship with them so you can call on them for work if something arises. When a tennant moves out it's SOP to repaint, which is why all apartments have a globby paint job, it's just dozens of layers to hide the smell of the last tennant. Find a painter willing to repaint units and just call him every time a tenant leaves.
I replied to you in
, but forgot to click your post
>When a tennant moves out it's SOP to repaint, which is why all apartments have a globby paint job
That is bullshit. At least where I live, it is not common practice to repaint entire units between every tenant, barring damage, long term wear, or mold problems. That would be such a waste of time and money.
>barring damage, long term wear, or mold problems.
So after every tenant
No apartment that I have lived in was so worn from me living there that it needed to be repainted, Do you get a lot of druggies and losers?
You can go the easy route and do
. However, keep in mind that property management is expensive and that you will have to get additional repair people and pay them yourself (property managers often come, take a look at things and say they can't do anything, need an expert). This can become incredibly expensive. There will be unprofitable years.
Therefore:
Check for mold / rats / fire potential. Likely, some random idiot will move into your property and treat it terribly. So make sure that the most vulnerable aspects of your property are somewhat solid. Mold, fire, vermin and everything connected to these should be high-quality. Further, get good insurance.
Depending on where you live, many things might be obliged by law anyway, but still, take a look at it. Make the serious topics idiot-proof. The rest will sort itself out.
Sorry, I'm an idiot for putting sage in my name, I didn't sage though.
What's this on my wooden house? It's fairly easy to remove with a broom. I think it's either salt or some sort of lichen. It's been raining a lot lately but it's mostly located further away from the ground. Is it harmful? I'm living in here for 1 week, so I am kind of a newby.
It looks like mold
Thanks sage bro. I am thinking I might have to get a fire extinguisher to give to the tenant, just in case
>You'll be rolling in money
Yeah, that's not going to be the case though. It's not a fancy apartment complex in a first world country. We are talking about a very small apartment unit in a very economically modest city in South America.
I have a ton of cash to give back on it from the rent too, and on top of it paying costs of maintenance, improvements, and such.
Being a landlord doesn't automatically mean the person is rich. I haven't even started yet, and I have already realized I won't be making much from this, I am just aiming at having the property pay for its own expenses for now
>It's not a fancy apartment complex in a first world country. We are talking about a very small apartment unit in a very economically modest city in South America.
Sell the units instead and use that money for something else.
Mold or bugs
Make a concoction of tea tree essential oil, witch hazel and water, spray and wipe
When the area is dry, you can reseal the wood with polyurethane so mold can't eat the wood. You might need to recaulk all the seams and corners after with clear 100% silicone
Name a better option for stuffing than sage and onions?
Potatoes mashed with garlic salt
Wait
Hi. How do I separate pieces of wood in furniture that have no visible screws? they are probably connected with some sort of glue or nails in between and I need to get them apart.
They're glued and pressed on a big press, maybe even heat activated glue was used
You'd be best off tablesawing them apart cuz the joints are stronger than the middle of the wood pieces. If you try to break them apart, you'll end up with roughly broken chunks with some of one side and some of another still attached cuz they will not break at the seams. They'll break in the strands in the middle of the pieces
Aloha
De-weeding and roughly levelling ground prior to pouring a concrete shed base.
Pickaxe to break up the firm earth, rake to get the weeds out and achieve a somewhat level finish, then tamp it down with sledgehammer- Viable?
It's a bit of labour but seems a lot cheaper than renting a rotavator and a mechanical tamping tool.
I have rake, pickaxe, sledgehammer, spade, shovel, fork, weed puller, spirit level, wood, wheelbarrow, and a riddler at my disposal.
Hand Tampers are cheap and actually work
Look out for lava tube skylights
Hawaii is fricking horrifying
This is a Dremel butane torch nozzle, and I need to screw it back in tight. It looks like it needs some kind of 2 prong screwdriver, but the one I have is much smaller. Nozzle diameter is 8.5mm.
Does anyone know what kind of tool can I screw this back in? I managed to get it out by just pushing with a pick into one of these detents, but I won't be able to put it back in tightly enough with a pick. Also, pliers won't work here, the sleeve into which the nozzle screws in is too narrow
I'm going to cut some 1cm wide rubber coated iron rods and stick them in moist soil to use as espalier for plants. Would dipping them in candle wax be sufficient protection from rust? Or will the candle wax eventually dissolve?
It might work subsurface, and be of limited use above ground.
I have four linear rails with a few NEMA 23 enines and one NEMA 34, is the idea of putting these together to make a CNC completely moronic or somewhat feasible?
I have microcontroller experience and I'm okay to buy whatever other bits I need (missing motor drivers for example)
What I'd really like to do is set up some kind of multihead system where the one setup can wood route, 3D print, laser engrave, maybe aluminum route
Machining stronger metals would be cool too but I sense that that is probably beyond me for now, and I will start with just the wood router
Anybody tried this?
What's normal compression on a mower engine? I got 85psi after 3 pulls.
It bogs in tall grass, which started after I stalled it 3 times hitting a vine while clearing some brush so I'm thinking it's related to that. Carb was cleaned recently and sparkplug is new. It's a Husqvarna 9p7020010f1.
Check the owner's manual. That's a Briggs & Stratton engine number.
It's more than likely the carb hasn't correctly been set up on the main needle.
Again, owners manual for the base carb settings.
how would you transport a 75in+ flat screen tv with no floor/table mounts and no packaging in the back of an uncovered pickup truck? would i have to build a wooden brace for it? does it need to be upright like a plasma tv or can i lay it backside down?
I'd place it on some blankets, back side down.
How come are electronics rated for some pressure range with a lower bound ? If you depressurize slowly enough to not mechanically deform the component, shouldn't they run fine at a fraction of an atmosphere?
Electricity neurons require oxygen to sublimate electronically along the path; it's called pressure gradient symbiosis
How do I turn a 2 door Jeep Wrangler (2011) into a camper? Maybe not to live in, but comfy night or two. Is it possible bros?
Rooftop tent obv
qrd on soldering?
any good videos or anything?
im not a PrepHole native but i've come across a project im working on that requires some potential soldering
Practice before you work on something important
Decent soldering iron with heat control (there’s good Chinese knockoffs on Amazon for ~$30), leaded solder like 60/40 or 63/37 whatever, and flux.
Although I’m still super mediocre at soldering so listen to the people on the electronics thread and don’t destroy a whole board on something important without trying it out on a scrab board or some shit.
I've heard this series is good, but I haven't watched the whole thing.
hi PrepHole
i noticed the water in my bathtub was yellow for maybe 10-15 seconds when i went to take a shower a couple of days ago. then again this morning i noticed the water was again yellow, for 10-15 seconds before clearing up.
i havent noticed the tap water or other faucets producing yellow water yet, but i have to take a closer look, i havent been paying attention and the color isnt super strong (but 100% noticeable especially in a white tub).
what could this be? and why would it be just at the start and then go away?
There's an iron water pipe leading to the tub spout but the rest of the plumbing has been replaced
My house had 2 iron water pipes, one to the tub, cold side and one to the bathroom sink, cold side. By had I mean have cuz it doesn't matter enough to fix it
The yellow is actually diluted rust brown/red
>it doesn't matter enough to fix it
so its not dangerous? i just let it run until its clear?
my apartment has a hot water tank. the side that i noticed was yellow was hot. i guess i just gotta check but i really dont want the hot water tank fricked up because that would be my kitchen sink and bathroom sink too (drinking / rinsing water) i hope its just the tub.
i bought a dishwasher off fb and since my kitchen cant fit one i plan on putting it on casters and wheeling that b***h around when i need to wash things. i have two problems
1) do i need an airgap or special hose for the drain? can i just point the drain hose into the sink or a 5gal bucket?
2) how do i make an enclosure for this thing, does it need a frame or can i just get some wood sheets and use pic rel to build it
Does it really need an enclosure? It's not like dishwashers jiggle around.
You can just sit it on a wheeled wooden square bed with a lip on each edge to prevent it from sliding.
I don't see much utility in having it be able to wheel around though, not unless you have a large lab and/or kitchen
How bad is it if a patio has a slope of 6%? They say the max is 5% but is it really bad if I'm a little steeper? The ground is at 7-8% slope, so I'm flattening it some but I don't want to have to do some bullshit like pic-related.
Can a 6% slope be fine?
Kek
One row of wall block isn't going to kill you
shit might start rolling off tables and be annoying as frick in the long run. ask someone with a drooping back yard patio
is 6% really enough to cause stuff to roll off tables? What about safety? Is there a risk of people falling over or something? I can walk/stand/sit on the ground without issues so I figured it wouldn't be a problem, but could it be?
just use some shims if youre worried about it?
8.33% slope (4.76 degrees) is an ADA-standard wheelchair ramp.
Your 6% slope (3.43 degrees) patio will be about three-quarters as steep as a wheelchair ramp.
what is the step by step process for boring and "finishing" a hole? say I want to make a hole in my desk, and i've already piloted and drilled the right size. what comes next? sanding with a dremel? what after that? assume that my fingers will be in the hole at some point so i want it smooth and not splintery.
Sandpaper wrapped around dowel?
I have a very cheap and very shitty grill that I got on clearance in a hardware store years back. It cost me like 5$ at the time and it shows.
The main issue I have with it, is that you fasten the legs to the body with nuts and bolts. Both of these rust. All the time.
They don't get wet or anything, it's just air moisture that's apparently enough to get them to rust.
Cue my stupid question:
How do I easily and preferably cheaply stop them from rusting?
My current idea is seasoning them in my oven like I season cast iron cookware - 1-2 layers should not be enough to stop them from being able to work, but protect them from moisture. I'd have to be super careful no oil pools in-between the threads or they'd stop working and I assume the seasoning would wear off quickly at the threads.
Am I missing a obvious solution here?
cover the area in jb weld and never take it apart?
finding a better, free or $20 grill on craigslist seems like time better spent
The reason that I still have this specific grill is because while it is shitty, it fits perfectly into a backpack. It's so wide that no space is wasted (so maximum capacity given the constraints) while still fitting inside. The legs are long, so it's high off the ground, but not so long as to not fit inside a backpack. It's relatively thin too, so there's still space in the backpack for coal, a cutting board, a few other items and food or drinks.
If the size wasn't so damn perfect I'd have thrown this thing out years ago and gotten something more premium, but I haven't met a perfectly sized grill like that since - they are always either too bulky or too small.
okay, i thought you were talking about a backyard grill or something
replace with stainless nuts and bolts, if the body of the grill is rusting, replace it
I was fixing my toilet earlier and I have 2 questions about this dual flush mechanism.
1. What is the blue thing
2. What is the red thing
I would probably look for a similar model online and look at its manual.
Blue is for poopoo flush water amount, red is for peepee flush water amout, I'm guessing just based on the fact the blue one is on the main float.
I'm buying new hinges for my bi-folding closet doors, I'm going to take an old one in but before I do I was curious if there are specific hinges I'm suppose to buy or can I just buy w/e?
bump
Which hinge? the hinge to open it or to make the doors bifold? there are hundreds of different bifold doors, picture of the hinge your replacing?
Apparently the hinge picture I took is "too big" for the board by .12MB which is lame and I don't know how to compress the image to get it to 4MB. They basically look like your average everyday hinge but smaller.
>I don't know how to compress the image to get it to 4MB
am I being trolled?
>open in paint
>resize image down 50%
>save as jpg
I knew I could do that but I was also not 100% sure so I just didn't bother with it lol.
Just use any hinge
okay cool, thanks for the reply.
I'm the anon that was asking about hinges on bi-folding closet doors. Put the new hinges in and the gloset door doesn't really close any more fully, every time I push it shut it flexs slightly open again. How do I fix it?
Never mind, Apparently the middle hinge was bound up or something, took it out and it got around 60% better, moved the bottom one and moved the top one slightly, still have the same problem but at least it seems to stay put now when I close it. If this closet door breaks again I'm just going to fricking trash them, frick having bifolding doors, I'd rather my clothes sun bleach than have to deal with that bullshit again.
I've got an old engine driven welder I got running, what kind of cable do I need for leads? Is there a specific kind of welding cable or can I just use 2awg stranded cable?
Is it normal for my houses power to go lower and sometimes have my fans go slower at times.
Do you live in South Africa or some other third world hellhole?
No?
Then no.
Yea that’s no good.
My last house was in an area where lots of the 2/3 bedroom homes were getting knocked down and replaced with McMansions, and during the summer afternoon and evening when everybody’s AC was running hard, the power grid built for 3 bedroom homes had trouble keeping up with the mcmansions. It would be >10V difference between dinner time and like 4am. I could notice LED lights flickering a little bit, but not the fans going slower, that seems like a bit much.
Test the voltage with your trusty multimeter at different times. It’s been a hot summer. Pic related was the lower end and then I would get up to like 125V when it was cooler.
>$200 carbon fiber bike shifter
>not rustproof
Where do I buy 8.4mm ID/14mm OD stainless washers because all I see anywhere are 16mm OD.
Call a hardware supplier like Wurth or Fastenal.
My backyard if full of weeds. I've trimmed all of them, but there's too many to pull out by hand. It's also like 90-100 outside and I start sweating at 60F.
What super strong weed killer should I buy? Also do I have to reseed my lawn after applying weed killer?
Use a selective herbicide that affects broadleaf plants but not grasses.Make sure it is safe for your type of lawn grass.
Southern Weed-B-Gone or Weed-n-Feed is probably what you need, but take your time and read the labels before you buy it or go to a pro nursery and get good advice, especially if you don't know your type of grass.
Weeds that are grasses are tougher to treat. Most of the time you just mow, water, and fertilize the lawn and the proper turfgrass will slowly choke out the weed grasses. You might spot spray them or dig out the odd tough guys.
Weeds that are not in the lawn can be treated with stronger herbicides, like Triclopyr. Shovels work as well.
Thanks I have a lot of knotweeds, they grow a foot tall within 2 weeks nad it's killing me
Going to a big box hardware store this afternoon to get a few hand tools so I can make better joints for this cold frames project.
What few budget tool should I grab to make a large glass topped box?
You might need a chisel to make indents on the top so the glass fits better. Or you could get a mini hacksaw and strip of metal and cut an edge out for a chisel then use the metal for fastening and hacksaw for small wood cuts.
I want a quiet motor for a high torque (10Nm), low speed (300RPM) application driving a hydraulic piston.
I've been looking around, and it seems like something like a chink nema34 would be a good fit, no gearbox means it's quiet, but I don't know about running it. You can get the motors for like 50 bucks, but then when you throw in a PSU and a motor controller it's like 150 bucks. Is there not something similar I can throw in that just lets me wire up on/off and speed up/down?
I have two beds (for one person each) and I want to join them together to form a kingsize bed. Since there is a gap between them, I ordered some PU foam to plug it (~10cm wide). I was hoping that it will be a bit more comfortable than it actually is, so I'm not thinking of also buying a mattress topper to fix it. Mainly the discomfort comes from the fact that the two mattresses and the PU foam have different hardness and the transition is not smooth.
Do you think that a mattress topper would solve this? I was thinking of using N20 or N23 PU foam for this with 5 or 6 cm thickness. I'm also wondering whether it's at all comfortable to sleep on it and how well does it ventilate?
what exactly are these for? heat? towels? sorry eurobros, excuse my ignorance
I'm not even european and I know they are heated racks for drying towels, they are usually on when you turn the heating on.
Italians from Trentino have cool "motoagricola" brand.
http://www.paolimacchineagricole.it/index.htm
What are these lights called? It died a little while ago but I'm having trouble finding the right replacement
you replace the whole fixture
Or I assume the power supply failed (not the LEDs themselves). You can buy just a 700mA constant current LED power supply. That's like a 20w-25w one. It wouldn't be cheap but it probably wouldn't fail again if you bought a good quality one instead of whatever cheap thing the manufacturer used.
Anyone knows how this dumb frick can remove these bolts and anchors from a wall?
Usually how these work is the bolts open the anchor inside the wall, so just put a couple of nuts on the end of the bolts and loosen them with a spanner, then they should just pull right out.
Bolts are somewhat loose as it is, you can twist them around and such, so nuts just get unscrewed again when i start twisting.
Also, i suppose i'm royally fricked with right one because the bolt got stuck inside, right?
You use 2 nuts to create a lock nut, have you never worked with all thread? For the right one I'd just try and drill out the center, go far enough and whatever is holding it in will fold back in. Worst case you can just grind it down level with the wall and fill the whole thing in.
If it’s hollow block just tap those frickers into the wall and patch the holes.
It's a concrete slab, I live in a commie block
What are your go-to appliance brands/models? I'm moving into an unfinished house and need recs. So far I've garnered:
>all Samsung appliances are dogshit
>LG, GE Profile, and Bosch are usually good
>Washer: Speed Queen, LG, GE has a fancy new 2-in-1 that's allegedly pretty good; also front-loaders are good now apparently
>Dryer: doesn't matter too much, but important to keep in mind there will be an $840 energy rebate for heat pump clothes dryers kicking into effect in the next several months
>Dishwasher: Bosch in general, 800 specifically
>Refrigerator: GE; LG are good IF you avoid their linear compressor models
I've got a Samshit fridge that has been fine for over a decade, only problem is the ice maker is junk.
Honestly, everything now is made to kill itself a day after the warranty expires.
To be honest I like GE, and LG. My dryer is a 40 year old maytag neptune that I got for free and refuses to die. Samsung is fricking garbage, always has been, always will be. I had to get a samsung fridge, it's fine, but I would have prefered GE- but they didn't make a model with flush handles.
Got my hands on three FLIR cameras (model is FC344 ID). Any fun ideas on what to do with these? I was thinking of harvesting one microbolometer from one for some random dyi optics project, or just for looking at my wiener while ejaculating, what do you guys think?
Are the darker green rings of grass around this house fairy rings or something else? Looks more like some sort of liquid effect than fairy rings.
Do mushrooms grow out of the rings?
I just noticed the rings this year, and don't remember ever seeing lots of mushrooms like you see in the pictures online. It is totally possible the soil has a really high fungal content, it used to be no-till farmland several years ago and still likely gets some of the fertilizer from the fields all around it. There weren't trees at the center of the circles, only the huge tree you see fallen at the upper left. I thought it might have been those roots decaying, but it's in the front yard as well.
maybe a shitty underground sprinkler system?
>see some weird mushroom dusty looking light thing on the ground
>kick it
>start hearing buzzing in my ear
>run
WTF don't tell me a wasp nest got blown onto the ground in the middle of the night FFS now I got TWO
Who is good for bulbs now? I bought some old Philips stuff a few years back, and it ranged from fantastic (early LED), to okay (the stuff I bought about 5 years back), to utter garbage (the new stuff now they've worked out how to cut all the corners).
I'm getting a lot of leftover detergent in my dishwasher after each cycle, to the point where I'm not sure if the main wash detergent is even being used. I'm not sure if the water isn't strong enough to blast it out of the dispenser or if water is leaking through during the pre-wash and getting the detergent powder wet before it even opens. Probably both.
Is there a way I can repair the seal or make the door close tighter without having the replace the entire dispenser assembly?
Realistically how much do you have to water your lawn before it completely dies? I rarely see anybody watering their lawn, and only 2 people have sprinklers; in my old town house complex they never watered the lawns only mowed it. How does the grass stay green?
Those that do water, probably do it in the early.morning. if you do it in the afternoon it causes mold.
If you do it in the middle of the day it evaporates before the grass can get any.
If you.dont live in California or the desert you probably don't need to water often or at all if you chose a drought tolerant grass.
>Those that do water, probably do it in the early.morning.
Yes but at what frequency. I am awake and home all day. I haven't seen anybody water. Is it once a week? Once every two weeks? Once every month? I know that when there's a rain storm I just don't water for the week.
And my townhouse complex never had people watering the grass. I only ever saw them mow. Is it because of the humidity?
Unlike me everyone here has a job, so they're not even home early morning. Gone until afternoon.
What is drought tolerant grass? Do I buy that?
Just search for drought tolerant grasses online, and try to find a species kinda native to your area, or at least find someone who grows it near you so the grass is adapted to the climate. Also consider other plant options such as clover species, if your local govt or HOA will tolerate mixed race lawns.
sprinklers are generally set to run between 4-6am
What about the people who don't have sprinklers...I also see plenty of sprinklers on in the afternoon. Are you sure these things aren't state specific? I live in a dry state, not humid.
Thanks, but clovers are ugly, so I will focus on the drought resistant grass. Maybe some native wild flowers. My lawn was already mucked up before I moved it, so I just need to fix the prior owner's mess. I wish they didn't allow super tall weeds to grow, like come on.
Don't water a lawn in the afternoon. It's a total waste of water. Do it in the early morning to mimic how dew forms on grass.
Okay, I will try to water at 6-8am. Thanks.
I'd try to water just before or right at sunrise to minimize the evaporation from the sun. It'll vary by your latitude obviously.
I'll admit that I'm a bit of a hypocrite when it comes to my watering, but I just use soaker hoses for my flowers and azaleas, so it's a little bit different.
Heat doesn't pick up until noon around here. It's very cold at night and early morning.
Where do you live? In the Rockies?
Utah
I was close! But yeah, try to water at or before the times that dew naturally forms. It's best for the grass and wastes the least amount of water. Especially for someone like yourself that lives in water scare area.
Thanks partner.
Clover can be very nice, if you get the right variety. Be careful with native wildflowers, they are very expensive and difficult to get established against common invasives. Try to get weeds under control best you can before planting wildflowers.
I never water my grass in South East Louisiana(but it is getting a little dry this year. Seriously, this summer has fricking sucked.), but I recall growing up in Texas my parents needed to water it twice a week to keep the lawn from completely dying. More often that that to keep it green.
It depends heavily on location and kind of grass, basically. I'd probably start with twice a week and raise or lower the amount depending on how the lawn responded.
>Tree branches banging on my roof in the middle of the night.
Who the frick owned this house before, they literally cut off a random lower branch but they don't fricking cut off the branches on the top of the roof. Who the frick owned this fricking house. Are you fricking stupid? Installing shitty fences to spite your neighbors, if this place hadn't been renovated by some construction company, I would be furious at the state of the fricking outside.
How long does it take for your shingles to get damaged by tree branches? People keep saying 1-2 weeks, but when I climbed up on my roof my shingles looked perfectly fine.
go back to california
I'm from New York City.
i hear california is nice
I've been and I hate it. Weather is bad, no alternative to traffic aka transit. Too many homeless. It's messed up but NYC has a-hole anti-homeless measures everywhere but the subway.
It is an improvement, well it was when I lived there. Haven't been back home in almost 10 years. I was upset when AOC actually won and when Rudy Stepped down. You can call Bloomberg bad, but the new people only got worse. A black woman and Hispanic running my city? They need to be forced to live in Far Rockaway for as long as they stay in office.
Anywho, the person who lived in this house prior to me destroyed their home and was a woman who lost her job. Not surprised stupid decisions were made. Still angry though.
>He thinks that's an improvement.
I went outside one day and as I was standing outside next to my house I realized there was a wave of heat emanating from the exterior wall. Like wtf why?
I have a keychain flashlight I'd like to wear as a necklace. I've got paracord but seems like a choking hazard, any special way I can tie it that will break free under pressure but also be strong enough not to come undone when I pull on it to use the light?
They have these magnetic key chain caribiner things, you could get one of those, they’re small rare earth magnets so you could tie either end of the paracord to one of the magnets and it would break apart before it chokes you, but it’s strong enough to hold keys securely.
Thanks. Next time I order something off AliExpress I'll try and grab one
my dad replaced the knob on the door to the garage and it's weird because no matter which way the switch is turned, it'll open from the inside. but if it's not unlocked (vertical in this case) it'll lock from the outside. led to a lot of getting locked out until I got the habit down. how did this happen and how do I fix it?
Other than lack of availability, is there a good reason why locking mechanisms tend to be in doors instead of in the frame? Seems like things would be more solid and secure if the mechanism was in the wall/frame and the door was simply passive with holes for the securing bolt to go into.
Frames vary heavily in size, nobody wants to carve away chunks of their wall to fit the mechanism into.
Generally though, the most obvious answer would be that if the lock was on the frame, then you could put the key in, turn it, unlock the door, and then leave the keys outside. You don't have to take your hands off the keys at any point when you open a door with the lock in the door. You'd also need large flat spaces for the key either side of the frame, which is harder than you'd think, so the standard style of lock would require custom cylinder sizes most of the time to reach. With standardized door widths, it's pretty easy to offer a few lock cylinders that fit every door.
I am setting up a sink outside to wash vegetables from my garden.
It's going to drain into the sewer system.
I grow a lot and it's going to end up with a lot of soil/fibres/sand etc going down the drain, obviously I don't want this in my sewer line.
Is there a kind of under-sink trap/filter I can buy or build that has a decent capacity and is easy to empty?
why not collect the water and pour it over other plants that are still growing?
I also want to be able to use it as a general purpose sink, wash my hands/tools etc in it, so soap/grease etc will be going down the drain too.
Washing vegetables was just the relevant purpose as far as needing the trap/filter goes.
Also the location just makes this by far the easiest option, it's going nearer the house than the garden.
>It's going to drain into the sewer system.
Kind of have to echo the other guy: Why? If it's just for washing crops and garden tools, why go through the hassle? Just have it drain somewhere you could use the water.
If the image you posted is style of sink you plan on using, get a commercial sink straining upstand kit for the plug. It fits into sink bowl, not under. But far easier to clean out and keep debris from getting into the drains, without disconnecting pipework and shit
Forgot to mention, you can also line this with a fine gauze/mesh/muslin sock to keep out the finer materials like sand or soil you'd said aboutPRYS4AD
Use a strainer in the sink, My garden sink has just a 4" drainfield pipe in sandy soil. You can put an inverted 5 gal plastic bucket upside down at the end if you are going to use it a lot or have clay soil.
If your sewer line is really close by, connect to it.
hello EE anons,
how to shield speaker cables from electromagnetic interference at home? I have 17 cables within 30cm and my speakers suffer by buzzing constantly. Is it possible to fix with materials found at home? Maybe aluminum foil?stwnxw
Question from an electronics moron beginner. I bought a used high security surveillance camera that requires at least 24w of power to function according to the manual supplied either via a 3 pin terminal with vac or vdc (I am moronic and google makes me confused when searching for this), or a poe+ connection. I got a poe+ injector and figured that would be easiest way to connect and power ir but I read that in order for me to use the camera I first need to use a reset plug or loopback plug to trigger a factory reset using an ethernet cable. Could I technically rewire the cable that will be supplying electricity with the poe connection to also trigger the reset? What would be the simplest way to power it with the 3 pin terminal vac/vdc?
>Could I technically rewire the cable that will be supplying electricity with the poe connection to also trigger the reset
I don't think you can supply POE and have it be a loopback plug at the same time, the wires will be in use doing loopback so you will need to use the power adapter. (VAC/VDC is voltage AC and Voltage DC I assume?)
What's the power plug look like on the camera? you can usually get aftermarket wall wards really easy.
It looks like this, the green 3 plug terminal right next to the FLIR logo (at least thats what I get from the manual). And yes, voltage AC and voltage DC, sorry for the moronation
The manual: https://www.manua.ls/flir/fc-344-id/manual
Is running multiple switches in parallel an NEC violation? Setting up dust collection in a shop and I'd like to put a switch at each station/tool, so it would end up being 4+ switches in parallel. Can I do this and still be in compliance with NEC? I know OSHA would freak any of the switches were labelled on/off since then you could have a circuit energized when any of the switches said off.
Thank you, hadn't ever looked at/thought about how a 4-way works internally and how they could be used beyond 2/3 switch setups.
i need a lever to control a cable that is under spring tension.
Do break lever like levers exist that one can lock in any position or increase the pivot friction? Looking for something cheap
Wouldn’t a gear shifting mechanism do better at locking in different positions? It depends how much tension and how much movement you need for the cable.
I’m thinking a lot of like yard equipment speed handles or depth control or something, they often have a few different detents.
Does anyone know how the low oil alert sensor shown works? When I replaced the one in my generator it "fixed" the no-spark condition, but I wonder if I inadvertently corrected a bad connection while messing with it.
I ask because I want to order a spare, and they range from about 2 dollars up to forty, and none are listed for my 20 year old Generac 5500 Storm Boss. The replacement I used was already in my pile of parts and is not exactly like the old one, so I'm not sure it works correctly, meaning the thing runs but I'm not sure it will stop if the oil level is low.
I tested the old "bad" one with ohmeter and diode tester and got nothing. The new one is in the generator so I haven't tested it yet.
>Does anyone know how the low oil alert sensor shown works?
OK, I cut the old one open. It's at least twice as large as the ones shown here, which look like the one I put in. The old one has a somewhat complex circuit board inside. I'm not able yet to see and components or markings, but I assume the device either grounds the wire going out, or floats it, to indicate low oil. The main thing is that this is not a simple device and it's possible that the one used 20 years ago in mine does not behave like the one I installed.
I'll just keep an eye on the oil level. With a generator that is used about once a year that's not an issue since it isn't leaking oil.
full roof replacement
tar roof + shingles
1500 sqft
replaced with some type of elastic simulated rebar
live in a heavy rain area / east cost
was quoted $17k, one day job, 25 year warranty, free yearly inspections
I like puzzles.
what information is lacking?
>comment in the Stupid Questions Thread
Anon. Re-read your comment and see if you can figure out what it's missing.
Think real hard, and remember, this is the Stupid Questions Thread.
Where people come to ask questions and get answers to questions.
What do you think your comment is missing?
sigh, I'm nta but he is asking if its a good price for what he is getting, obviously.
lel
yes I'm asking if thats a good price
We need to know more about the job and where you live.
Conversely, you could just get 3 quotes like a grown up instead of posting vague questions here
I had a new roof put in
It looks nice, but there are a couple of gaps
Do you think these are gonna be an issue?
does anybody here have experience making fibreglass moulds?
i've been using a release wax on the mould (meguiars no. 8 and more recently tr-104) and i've been following the instructions and trying every possible variation on the instructions but for some reason the part just doesn't want to pop off easily - apply using small circular motions, wait 5 minutes, buff off to a mirror finish, then wait 30-40 minutes and repeat for 5 total layers
i have covered every square mm of the mould with the wax so i know i didn't miss anything, so what the heck am i doing wrong?
I'm looking to make a scabbard so lugging around my HEMA longsword is less of a pain in the ass and I don't worry about it getting the shit bent out of it while in transit. I want it to look at least somewhat nice though. The wood core and leatherwork seems simple enough (I'm not a moron around wood and I've worked with leather once before), but slapping on some metal fittings (like those circled in pic related) is unknown territory.
I would like to think I can accomplish the general shaping of the metal, but the main question I have is how to attach the metal bits to the leather. Should such bits be tacked in by a small metal pin on the inside of the collars and chape? Is there a glue solution that would work for metal to leather? Go full moron and encase the whole fricker in a layer of epoxy? Surely someone here has done something similar and has some helpful advice.
Anyone?
How do I leverage my PrepHole skills to get a gf? I need someone to build things for...
I'm flummaxed. I can't seem to remove the sliding aluminium windows anywhere in my house to clean them - I lift them up in the frame and it's still too long to pass over the bottom railing. I looked up and down and there doesn't seem to be any stopper or block mechanism, either in the railing or the glass frame, that might be stopping me. The only thing I don't recognize is this black rubber box at the outer side of the frame (pictured).
Any ideas? Cleaning these without removal is a fricking pain in the ass.
It looks like they should just lift up given how big that channel is at the top Are you sure that screw at the top isn't attached to a stopper?
>Are you sure that screw at the top isn't attached to a stopper?
That's my guess, it's either that top screw or something else at the top of the window ... sets some kind of wheel or block inside the window that prevents the window from being lifted up far enough to clear the bottom track. Adjust that down, and you can lift the window high enough to be pulled off the bottom track.
I don't recall what that screw controls but I removed it before and it did jack shit. The frame goes just high enough to give me hope but not high enough to slide out.
Any idea what that rubber box on the third picture is? it sort of slides up and down very slightly but does nothing. I can't seem to remove it.
Looks like a stopper so if you slam the window from one side to the other it doesn't smash into your wall. If you can get one of those gimmicky keyhole cameras you could put it in the gap at the top and look for something blocking it, maybe the installer just put a wedge in there and pushed it too far in?
I have a Chamberlain Garage Door Keypad and one of the contacts for the D Battery corroded and fell off. Do I have to replace the whole keypad or is it possible to just buy a new D Battery contact component and slot it in?
How do I get these plans for free? I already watch her videos and give her revenue, don't want to pay for plans too.
https://www.makergray.com/plans
I've got to be honest, if you see those pictures and you can't construct the plans in your head, you are a literal moron and DIY is too much for you. What's the difficulty, the dimensions? You can tell by watching the video.
homie I'M NUTS
What causes rings to form around a toilet? Its not urine because I flush no matter what but I've noticed that a yellowish (I'm colorblind, looks yellow to me but it might be green or another color) line starts to around where the surface of the water sits.
Limescale, flush and hold the ballwiener to prevent refilling the bowl. Then scrub down with vinegar or some other weak acid
Would I need a highly abrasive sponge or brush to do it with or would a regular scrubber sponge or brush do the job?
Don't use a highly abrasive scrubber, you could frick up the enamel coating. Just keep at it with the vinegar. You can buy strong vinegar solutions for cleaning but if you can't find it regular vinegar will do. Not strong enough just boil it to remove some water to increase the acidity
What's a good brand of Wood Glue that won't break the bank?
All wood glue is the same shit, it's like super glue. The problem is your clamping, not your glue.
I have a cheap tablesaw that has developed some kind of fault. It works, but only when you hold the power button in. I have looked for some kind of overload reset tripswitch, but cant find one, and the manual doesnt mention one. It only says if it cuts out to let it cool down. Its not a heat issue as its been months and is still fricked. I am resolved to buying a new one as it wasnt great when new, but I hope to be able to salvage the motor as its rated 2kw 240v and use it as a VAWT generator. Im assuming there arent any faults with the motor itself, like shorts or anything as it doesnt trip the mains breaker, cause sparks, smell burning or anything, its just that you have to keep the green button held in. Anyone got any advice or suggestions before I get started?
Saw / motor in question : https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1220587/Aldi-Wzts-2000.html#manual
disassemble it enough to see what the button is connected to and show us a picture of that if it isn't apparent what should be done next. A momentary button can power a latching relay or tell a more complex circuit to power the saw.
Thanks. Will take a look at it again tomorrow
Need to paint my concrete window lintels, there are 8 of them. Won't take much paint but the smallest tin of exterior paint I can get is 2.5 litres. I've a small tin of metal and wood paint in the shed, would that be ok to use on masonry?
My neighbor keeps coming over my property line to cut my 30+ year old crepe myrtle and I've finally had enough. Gonna take him to court too, but that ain't enough. I want to make him miserable. What's the smelliest fricking plant I can plant along my fence?
I don't care if it's petty, I'm tired of him trespassing on my property to try and poison the damn thing or lying to the tree trimmers by saying he has permission. This motherfricker hasn't even tried to attempt to reach out to me about it.
I was thinking some Spanish Stopper but any other suggestions would be very welcome.
Maybe you shouldn't let your Black person plant invade his garden, then. Any sane person would go "hey, neat, he's saving me a job". Instead you b***h and cry about it.
you could also offer to rake the leaves up under the tree, maybe that is the issue. have you talked to him about it at all?
Can you stain raw wood to be whiter than its original color? I want to turn some red oak into the color of a light natural hickory.
>stain
Bleaching. Couple different methods to it, never done hickory so can't say what's best.
Getting into leathercrafts and I feel like a moron for even asking this. Are there significant differences between working with real and faux leather? My gut says "yes", and I doubt that shit like soaking the leather is going to work the same between the two.
find a beginner craft templet to use buy both real and faux leather and make the same thing with both of them and you'll have your answer.
I have a tight fit in my "laundry room" more like a closet with two doors. Currently I don't have the doors on the closet because it's hard to open and close with the dryer I have in there. The primary issue is the dryer vent hose. Has anyone ever used one of those periscope vents for tight fits? Is there any other solution? I saw that you're not supposed to have more than one 90 degree angle with the hose, but I'm not sure how I would manage it otherwise? How bad is it if the hose is compressed a little?
Guys I need to buy a lawnmower but nowhere is selling Honda anymore. If I google "good lawnmowers to buy" the entire fricking list is Honda. What do I buy now/?
Do you live in some kind of location that doesn't accept delivery
No store is selling Hondas!!!!!!!! All sold out or unavailable!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Why is this so hard for you? Buy the cheapest lawnmower you can find in your area and wait for new Hondas to come in, check once a week or ask the store directly. Easy. Or better yet, I'd get one of those outdoor roombas and see how they work.
Keep in mind I will be running on mainly asphalt and concrete with minimal gravel.
>Why is this so hard for you?
I don't know anything about lawnmowers and I've never used one before. A friend told me to get something with a Honda engine and according to online they not only stop sell the honda lawnmowers but they pulled them from every store. There aren't selling Hondas no more so it's not coming back in stock!!! I need something that is going to work on my uneven lawn.
the roomba lawnmowers are over 1000+ that's too much money to "test" a product
Have you looked online to see if any stores will deliver a Honda to you? I don't mean that they'll deliver it to the backwater hardware "store" you have to deal with, but directly to your swamp's doorstep.
>Have you looked online to see if any stores will deliver a Honda to you
Yes!!!!!! I have just told you they are not selling them.
amazon?
no stop sale is for all retailers, non-legitimate websites are all shady resellers who might be givin you trash. they not only pulled them from shelves but now the goods ones bought out
it's over. like whatt do i buy? i have no idea since the enttire internet just says "buy honda" how tf other branss survive? to make matters worse the honda got pulled from UNITED STATES shelves, not Europe, because of emissions laws. like wtf idgaf about pollution, gimme my honda.
they will still be selling honda engines and parts, just not lawnmowers in the united states. electric honda lawnmowers only available in europe, thanks america
Why are you acting as though Honda is the only lawnmower manufacturer?
Buy a different one.
Or buy a used one.
Honda makes(made) great mowers. The two blades really make a huge difference and give you a great cut.
I don't know which one to buy, which is my initial questioj
I need to get a new one since mine just died. This is very disappointing. I might have to just buy a predator motor and slap it on instead.
I bought a house built in 1951 and the wiring is pants on head moronic. I've got no problem with installing outlets, fixtures etc. However I think the place needs to be completely rewired. I've run into multiple issues with live wires just capped and sitting, circuits having too much on the breaker, its clear the original owner did all his own electrical work. its a ranch that is about 1050sq ft and wired with BX, with no grounds.
How much would it possibly cost to have the whole thing rewired to code?
there's a single shit ass bulb lighting up my entire 2-car garage. as a result it's dimly lit and shadowy after sundown.
can I replace that single bulb with 2-4 fluorescent light fixtures? do I need to do anything besides mounting the fixtures then wiring them with the same wire that currently powers the bulb?
My house has an addition (block foundation) attached to the original house (poured). Where they meet, I have water coming into my basement during most rain storms.
Can I just dig down 5-6' outside where they meet and fill the crack with hydraulic cement? Maybe cover it with a rubber sealant? Haven't done any foundation work before and not sure of the risks.
Who would have thought that Honda lawnmowers would become unobtainium in current year
hi /sqt/, I've got this power adapter, I have been thinking about mounting it to the bottom of my desk to clean things up. It has these little prongs. Trouble is, they're blocked by the upper panel. How do I deal with this?
Put the screw into the bottom of the desk first, then slide the adapter to fit on the screw. That's why it's open on the side instead of a regular hole.
Oh I understand that much, but it's the same on both ends. So I can do 4 screws (2 at each end on my model), but there won't be enough wiggle room to slide it in. If I do one side first I can't screw in the other side.
Use hex head screws so you can get the screws in on one side after with a spanner?
genious. didn't know those even existed. thank you. bloody German manufacturers doing weird shit.
i have one of those little helping hands for soldering shit. but that piece of shit wont stay in one place because its way to light, despite its weighted base.
i have a 3D printed base that it can fit into. its good for making it not topple over but it does shit for not making it slide around the table.
anyone know of some good "grip tape" or something that i can slap under it to increase the friction?
im finding plenty of the kind you put under your furniture but i imagine they only start working properly when they have a big load on them and not 100 grams at most, 200 if being generous.
they make anti-slip tape for steps, I've seen it at home depot.
alternatively, maybe 3d print a base with slots for magnets and put some under the tabletop?
seen those grip tapes for steps as well. they tend more in the direction of sandpaper with glue on the other side. would ruin the surface of my work table assuming it would even work. would likely still need more than 150 grams to actually start gripping
was also looking more in the direction of rubber materials. i found some foam sheets for crafts and decoration lying around and it works somewhat. feels like the underside of a very cheap old style mousepad.
mousepad. jar opener. erasers. rubber bands.
Is it even possible to lower a utility bill? I just don't understand, my water usage is 8$, my garbage is like 18$ for two trash cans. But the entire bill is 88$, why? What is this "storm drain" that I never interact with, like I know it funds schools, but I pay state taxes too and those are supposed to also fund schools. What gives? This is such a scam.
probably paying for sewage and water to be taken away in the event of a flood? do you want to cheap out then have your house flood? seems like it would hurt your house insurance.
seriously though, we did save money by having a "soak away" where the water naturally goes into the ground. so we weren't charged for all the water that comes off the roof to be taken away. they back paid us for like 6 years too. everyone in the street got it.