So the weather as everyone knows is getting really unpredicatable and dangerous and that's not good. I live in a place that has always gotten tornadoes but things are getting ridiculous. The problem is I collect vintage tractors and farm equipment and need to be able to protect them. There's no point in simply ensuring them because some of them are over 100 years old and there may only be a few left in the world, can't use insurance money to buy something that doesn't exist. So I have a plan. I'm going to use my modern tractors to dig a hole to bury my vintage tractors in, but there needs to be more than a whole. So I'm thinking about getting a bunch of sea cans and putting them in the wholes, throwing some record on top, and covering them with 8 inches of cement on top and the sides except for the front access. That'll be one problem, but I still need a driveway access that's covered, so I'm actually thinking about getting a stationary crane and using another sea can to close up the underground parking garage when not in use. Just power up the crane, lift the make shift door, drive in and out. Next problem is since it's underwater it'll want to flood so I'm going to get a sump pump and run it off some solar panels and old car batteries. So that's taken care of but after that I should worry about fume extraction since I'll be running engines underground, and since I'll be running engines already why don't I just run another and get a gas powered generator and create a fume extraction system. That part needs work but my.boggest concern really is being able to get into my storm shelter quickly if I'm out in the yard and see a tornado coming. So I was thinking about doing what groundhogs do and having an emergency whole to dive into, but since I'm not a ground hog I was thinking a more human solution like a fireman poll. But I'll only be using it during thunderstorms so it shouldn't be metal. Wood gives me splinters so maybe pvc pipe. I'm open to any ideas but (cont)
(cont)tornado season kicks up in a few weeks and I really want to have it done before then
was also thinking about this but seems too easy to damage the tractor if not paying attentions
>not paying attentions
How many attentions am I going to have to pay and how much money will each one want?
You only have to pay enough for you not to flip over my tractors driving on the wall, I will beat your ass if you dom
Wouldnt it be cheaper to build either a underground parking area or to just fix the contrainers on a suitably sized concrete slab? Then you wouldnt have issues with flooding, easy access, and no holes to dig.
>Wouldnt it be cheaper to build either a underground parking area
That's exactly what I'm trying to do.
>just fix the contrainers on a suitably sized concrete slab?
Will do nothing when it sends a 150 ft oak tree through the side of them at Mach 3
>I mean, what kinda tornado are we talking about?
The kind that can launch a shipping container into low orbit. They may be rare but I don't want this scenario to play out.
>Did you hear what happened?
>No, what?
>Well not only did he lose his life but all of Mark's tractors got destroyed.
>What in tar nation happened?
>Well you see Bill it was a God danged twister that's what it was.
>how in the world? he had that tornado proofed parking garage.
>yes but it was only good for an EF4.5 and he got hit with an EF4.7.
>oh good lord.
>not only that but they haven't even recovered his body yet. NASA was saying they probably won't be able to get to it til the next time they go to the moon.
Obviously that's not realistic because NASA lost the technology to get to the moon somehow but you get the idea.
the tornado that destroys an actual shipping container I really want to see. If your scared about trees dropping on it, dont put it near woods.
Like youd pour a founddation for a shed or a house, if you want no cellar. just dig a 2 foot hole (or less) and pour in concrete till you fil it, then bolt your containers on it.
>if your scared about trees dropping on it, dont put it near woods.
Sure lol let me just relocate a 2000 square mile forest
>Like youd pour a founddation for a shed or a house, if you want no cellar. just dig a 2 foot hole (or less) and pour in concrete till you fil it, then bolt your containers on it.
So dig a whole, fill with concrete,magically put the shipping containers underneath the concrete for my underground parking garage then for some reason bolt the to the concrete
>Nike
I don't want sweatshop quality silos thx
are you moronic? you put the containers on top of the foundation (thats why its called a foundation) and bolt them to it, so they arent movable. If you want more protection, you can put concrete on the sides and top afterwards, you just do it above ground. Then it cant flood, you can drive right into it, and you still have your little tractor bunker. Much easier than doing it underground.
And to the forest, just chop down a perimeter. If you live there, you should do it anyways, if tornadoes are such a problem.
And Id have offered you a Titan Silo, but Nikes are much better for car storage, since its all one level.
>why don't you just do what you wanted to do in the first place but do it in this way that won't get you the result you wanted.
Im just trying to save you from flooding your "valuable collection", while saving you work. Go dig a hole and dont come crying to me when your brilliant idea of pumping out via solar panels and batteries in a storm doesnt pan out.
You do realize what the batteries are for, right? Any solar power system has batteries so that when there is no sun(like during a storm) that electronics can still function. The thing you're implying won't work is specifically designed for the situation you think it won't work in lmfao you know nothing you should stop trying to give people advice. It's like being fit and asking fat people for dieting advice.
Have you ever pumped out a cellar? In a storm? With an electric system?
What youre doing is not looking for a solution, you just want to build a shipping container bunker and are desperately searching for an application that isnt absolutely idiotic. I understand wanting to do that, but if you actually care about your labor and your collection, go with something that works, not something you find cool/interesting at the moment.
Look up above ground stormshelters, and apply that to your situation.
even better idea: scrape together a couple hundred grand and buy an old Nike missile silo, youll have plenty space for old farm equipment.
>it sends a 150 ft oak tree through the side of them at Mach 3
Then nothing you will do is safe. Give up. I mean, a Mach 3 tree would be similar to a bunker buster so if it hits the ground, it could bury your million dollar tractor hideout.
I have a bunch of vintage coca cola and Elvis memorabilia, how deep do I need to bury a shipping container to protect it from Project Thor?
I mean, what kinda tornado are we talking about? The "mess up your (american) house kind" or the "destroy actual foundation" kind?
>I mean, what kinda tornado are we talking about?
Neat. An empty tractor trailer got blown away? Bolt your containers down and actually fill them.
Are you willfully ignorant or just plain stupid. Getting picked up the tornado is not the main concern most of the time. Yeah, the strong ones can throw houses but being bolted down doesn't prevent that airborne house from being hurled into the side of the shipping container, destroying it and still possibly detaching it from the bolts anyway. The airborne debris typically causes the most damage. You mock it for being able to pick up a 6 ton trailer, but you fail to realize that at some point that trailer is coming back to earth at high velocity, and the shipping container may be fine, if it even hits the 4 corner posts and none of thin corrugated steel.
Falling from that height it could hit the ground at over 70mph, so it would he similar to getting hit with a flat bed tow truck at freeway speed
Then encase your containers reinforced concrete. If you think even thats not enough, you can put soil on/beside it as well. Still significantly easier and less flooding than your subsurface bunker.
>so cover them in reinforced concrete and dirt
Like I said I was going to do in the OP? Uh, thanks?
>It's cheaper to create an artificial whole in the ground above ground than to dig a whole in the ground when I already have the ground and I already have the equipment to dig the whole
yes it is. Cheaper to build and easier to maintain. Thats what were trying to tell you.
Hold on. So you're telling me that I can go buy an 80lb bag of cement that I'm going to mix and install myself and depending on where I put it that'll change how much it costs? Do they ask at the cash register, "sir, is this cement going in the ground because if so I'm going to have to charge you more." When I order a dump truck of dirt should I tell them, "you know, I was going to use the dirt I already have and don't need to pay for but PrepHole told me it would be cheaper to buy dirt." Pic related is you.
are you genuinely moronic or just baiting? Just dig your hole and dump your junk in it.
>are you genuinely moronic or just baiting?
Are you? Explain how building what I want to build above ground would be cheaper than building it below ground where I won't need to build a concrete form nor will I need to order over 100 yards of dirts.
Is your labor worth nothing? And do you care about being able to use it after it rains? If you are so sure you're right, do it your way. But dont ask for advice if you arent going to listen, boy.
>hurr durr labor
So you're wrong. You're moving goal posts. You're not answering my question, because you're unable to, because you are wrong.
>hurr durr why ask for advice and not take it
Your advice is bad and you're a moron. Why would I take bad advice from a moron that doesn't even have to deal with the project I'm planning.
3 40' containers, 8ft wide by 9.5ft high. At least 2 feet of concrete on each side. So the form it's self will be 44x28x11.5(let's just say 12). I'll need just under 60 sheets of plywood. Not including dimensional lumber or how much extra wood I'll need to form out an access point.
We're talking almost $5000 extra just for dirt and plywood for me to build it a way that I don't want to build it, where it's exposed very minimally. Please frick off out of my thread.
do what you want, just dont blame it on me when you cant get your trash out of your new subsurface swimming pool.
>do what you want
I will, that's the benefit of being a property owner
>just dont blame it on me
I'm never going to think of you again, unless someone asks me what's some of the dumbest shit I've ever read on the internet.
Just be careful your shipping containers are able to keep up the ceiling, maybe add center beams if you want a bunker. But you probably wont build anything anyway, so just keep on baitin.
That's while point of reinforcing them with concrete and rerod.they'll need temporary supports but they're going to be a form more than anything.
I'd probably shoot them before they got far enough on my land to even see anything, call the feds and say they were poaching and shot at me first.
>the benefit of being a property owner
What happens when your neighbor calls in a code-complaint?
You don't have to mould it all at once in place.
You would crumble year 3
>spend time digging whole
DON'T YOU VALUE YOUR TIME
>build and remove several concrete forms that shouldn't be touched til the concrete is mostly cured
DON'T VALUE YOUR TIME
Dont try to argue with him, let him fail on his own. He´s proven to be resistant to goodwill and new information.
>Are you? Explain how building what I want to build above ground would be cheaper than building it below ground where I won't need to build a concrete form nor will I need to order over 100 yards of dirts.
The way Tab Vees are poured you don't need a berm unless you're bored and like landscaping and for example want to dig drainage ditches or a pond. You don't need a full form or full shoring either. Uncle Sugar thoughtfully figured that out. Extra bonus is being able to pour in stages as your wallet and desire to work suggests. A reusable form lets you work your way up.
Same amount of concrete. No moisture management issues. No flood risk if pump dies while you're away. Tractors remain protected and dry vs cool and damp which is a horrid way to store valuable machinery. Sump pumps don't remove condensation but if you don't mind a large dehumidifier plumbed to your sump that will work. They're expensive and not passive so vulnerable to EMP in SHTF where you'd be SOL if you don't have redundant backup or if it simply shits the bed while you're not there. I wouldn't want to be one starting capacitor away from flash rust on the precious if you have one apart for restoration or maintenance. (There IS going to be workshop in there, right? If you use a stickbuilt shop the precious is one storm away from destruction.)
My replies are really for anyone else since OP already made up xirs mind which begs the question why xir posted before building it in the first place. If you eliminate self-imposed problems you can copy success then use it without issues.
>The "mess up your (american) house kind"
The US accounts for 75% of all tornados worldwide and 85% of the F5 tornados reported worldwide since 1950. Most tornados outside of the North American continent are weak.
WTF is your point?
>getting really unpredicatable and dangerous
Already lost me with this.
It's not.
pour foundation
embed container dogs in concrete - add L-bolts for shits and giggles
put container on dogs and lock them down
create stupid little wooden ramp to drive tractors in
Voila! Tornado-proof thing
why not pour the foundation at near ground level and ditch the ramp? Unless there is actual flooding, not just flooded cellars of course.
How can you poor and underground foundation above ground?
you will still have a lip from the container lock height + the container itself regardless of where you pour the foundation.
In this particular case, you wouldn't even need a foundation as much as you would simply need four pilings with the locks embedded.
I think a tractor, no matter how old, should be able to brave that lip, but a half foot rise is probably a good idea againt flooding. You can just pour a little ramp in front of it.
moronic bait
On the left you have the general scheme, where the containers are in the center covered with cement and connected to the ground by columns, all covered with earth, like a mountain, and with pipes that connect the center with the outside so that water, air, etc. come out. , the advantage of this is that it is cheaper than doing it underground, and more accessible, at the same time that it does its job, on the right you can see the plane from the side, where the entrance would be covered on the sides by more earth being impossible that a trunk arrives at the entrance and the exit is covered, while you save the solar panels and all the part of the water.
exactly. Just like they build hardened airfields or silos.
Well you know what to do then
mate Im the guy arguing against a bunker for the last hours, not OP
if you're building a concrete bunker anyway why do you need shipping containers
>if you're building a concrete bunker anyway why do you need shipping containers
Because they're the 4th step in the steps after the whole has been dug.
what i meant was, if you are pouring concrete around the container, what does that add?
Just drill for Sonotubes etc place beams weld containers to beams and done. They're typhoon-rated and say four or six 40' High cubes isn't going to flip or shift.
It's easy and you can bridge the side gaps with 2" x 1/8" thicc steel sheet sheared locally from a 4x8 by a machine or fab shop. I did two side-by side welded to end beams. 6010 or 6011 for the corner fittings (butt together then grind clean and weld) then FCAW the sheet metal. Cut interior walls with plasma, 6" zip disc or torch. Use a serious blower to ventilate indoor work.
You don't need a hole because it's not just a water but condensation issue and if you bury your boxes humidity WILL get to them so stop wanting to do that then copy proven success. Personnel doors are easy to frame with angle to mount common steel commercial doors for convenient access as I and shitloads of other people did. Now go visit container sites for adults like Sea Box for commercial and military examples to get ideas from. I hang angle shelving inside mine using torch bent 1/2" round bar hooks as they're ideal for holding heavy parts.
Keep boxes off the ground for air circulation however you wish. Surplus steel from demolition outfits is a great way to get posts and beams. You can weld d-ring anchors for snatch blocks to the inside blind end to winch tractors inside if they're not running. Think the whole project through and do nothing silly because silly is stupid. Ignore anyone who has not personally worked with containers. Andrew Camaratta did his right except for the homosexual castle but that got so many views and was cheap it made sense for him.
Now go study. There's nothing else to be learnt here.
How does that reinforce the ceiling and walls so projectiles don't go through them or crush them all together?
>gives stupid advice
>gets BTFO
>still hangs out to say "gais stahp he hurt my feefees don't talk to him"
I like to read what the other fellow said, because he actually sounds like he knows what hes doing.
If you're worried about projectiles in a storm use your tractor to make a nice berm or do Hesco style gabions like a FOB. If not in desert landscape results.
>make a berm
>on all 4 sides
oh gee if only there were something that would be functionally the same without needing to buy and haul tons of dirt
Dig a hole for buried containers= mound of dirt leftover
Surface containers with burm around the sides= new pond somewhere on the property. Stock with fish? Eat the fish?
Either way its displacement of dirt, and why buy dirt if you already have it on your property?
If you're serious about pumping water out the solar portion is a toy, have fun with it but get a diesel generator for reliable power.
no electrics in an emergency pump. Never. If you want to be down there or care about the stuff down there, diesel mechanic or bust.
Moisture penetrates buried containers and containers lying on the ground (or merely in humid areas, I run dehumidifiers in my machine shop and motorbike boxes because I live in a very humid area). The door gaskets on new "one trip" and "cargo ready" grades seal decently but containers are not submarines. Their wooden floors typical of standard containers are treated against insects but gradually permeable by moisture. The built-in vents permit moderate air circulation and would require sealing if buried but that doesn't do anything for the door gaskets. When you pump a sump that only removes water that makes it to the sump.
Of course moisture penetrates concrete too but that's why you use it like the military does in HAS or other bunkers built on grade. Containers are awesome but they no panacea.
OP doesn't believe me but this may help someone avoid moronation.
BTW odds of any thrown fragments actually crushing a container are next to nothing. Block the sides and that's plenty. Alternate easy option is store parts etc in outboard containers then least valuable tractors then most valuable tractors on to the center.
How many years is this for? They'll be sold when you die after all so best to invest wisely for the relatively brief time they'll be yours.
Let do a little common sense exercise.
In the event of a tornado you should
>A. Seek shelter in a basement or cellar, somewhere preferably underground
>B. Stand out in the open.
>C. Go on PrepHole to argue about what you think you should do based off your logical fallacies.
If you answered anything other than A then please stop posting.
You go to a cellar because thats the most protected room in a normal house. If youre building what amounts to a hardened garage, youre better off at ground level so you can drive in and out and dont get tons of mud and water into your storage space and ramp when a storm hits.
You can also use a berm or an outer layer of brick to make permanent cement molds.
Are there any storm/impact rated steel doors you can drive a car through? You seem informed on the subject.
>I plan on making dirts walls and using them to form concrete
>That's moronic OP, instead you should take some dirt, use it to make some walls and after all that you should reinforce it with concrete
>Are there any storm/impact rated steel doors you can drive a car through?
If you can drive a car through it I can guarantee it doesn't have a very high rating for impact. If a car can put a whole in it then a flying semi truck will easily do much worse.
Gotta admit, I laughed at that one.
>If a car can put a whole in it then a flying semi truck will easily do much worse.
If you seriously expect continuous bombardment then skip the containers, buy the steel liner as used in hardened aircraft shelters then call the concrete pumper. Be swimming in money if you try this but the actual work is basic.
>continuous bombardment
Yeah, I expect 200 semi trucks to fall on me simultaneously. Do thing guns with 30 round mags are designed to shoot and kill 30 different people without needing to be reloaded?
How much is your budget? Are there constraints at all? If you've the money a HAS or other proven military bunker (there's no reason to use untested designs) shits all over containers which do poorly under heavy earthen loads and being steel do corrode though if you start with new boxes they'll last a while.
Containers are both useful and limiting. Their low ceiling height is poor for storing vehicles like tractors and large ones are too tall. OTOH reinforced concrete and precast reinforced concrete can do whatever you want. It makes most sense to build for the task rather than set a goal to use a particular, very limiting building block. Containers are poorly understood by those who don't study them but are autismally excited by their shape. The are only strong in necessary areas to facilitate stacking in/on container ships and (like beer cans) weak over most of their skin surface.
>which do poorly under heavy eathen loads
Read the thread before posting, that's one of the reasons for the concrete reinforcement.
>
>Their low ceiling height is poor for storing vehicles like tractors and large ones are too tall.
What are you even trying to say? They're too small unless they're too big? Too big for whom? So if I have a foot of unused space at the top that's a bad thing? Should that be a deal breaker or something.
>study them
Engineers are some of the most sterile and emotionless people on the planet but if you or the other guy told them you were "studying" containers they would die laughing.
>The are only strong in necessary areas
Jfc none of you morons read the thread at all, one of the other functions of the reinforced concrete is rough protect the weak sides from projectiles and collapsing under load.
>what i meant was, if you are pouring concrete around the container, what does that add?
>what does that add?
>what does that add?
>what does that add?
Reinforcement you fricking idiot.
>What if instead of building a nuclear proof bunker OP just, I don't know, moves somewhere that isn't apparently threatened by world ending tornadoes?
Good point, why don't I load up 12+ flatbed trailers, go to a port, end up loading the tractors in shipping containers anyways, and move to Antarctica. Absolutely cheaper and more feasible. It's more likely that all those flatbed semi trucks will get launched into an air by a tornado on the way to the sea port completely defeating the purpose of moving them to safety in Antarctica. And what use would tractors be in Antarctica, at least here I can win prizes at the fair, take them to schools and let kids ride them or even pick up chicks with them. What the frick would I do with a tractor in Antarctica? Push snow onto other snow?? I don't even have any plow attachments. Are you trying to ruin me?
>What are you even trying to say? They're too small unless they're too big? Too big for whom? So if I have a foot of unused space at the top that's a bad thing? Should that be a deal breaker or something.
Large tractors are often too tall to fit even in High Cubes. Depends on what you collect. Since your mind is obviously made up why did you post? As for studying containers they appear simple but are quite a sophisticated product which you would know if you were genuinely curious. What are the measurements of the tractors you want to store and why do you want to use NARROW (park a tractor in one) containers when there are much better options?
What do you really want to do and why are you obsessed with containers as a liner for concrete? You'll need to shore them before pouring because container walls and roof panels are not very rigid. Do you even own any containers? The roofs flex when you walk on most of them and concrete is much heavier than soil.
Since you're going to pour a complete concrete structure including floor below them why bother wasting money on containers? Pour slab, pour or use precast walls, place precast roof and there is your bunker. Is there a reason you've not studied real bunkers because if you had (I have and worked in many while serving) you'd know better. Containers are constraining due to their narrow width. If you want more space then that's more welding,fab and more shoring to support a pour. If you want a blast proof structure build it like people who know what they are doing do and copy a HAS.
Continued
You can order a steel spall liner or very large steel culvert commercially and once anchored that's much more protective than thin containers. Then you call a concrete pump truck to pour the shell. HAS are designed to survive nearby bomb and artillery impacts and have vastly more usable space and better ventilation than containers. You can drive an 18-wheeler into one and unload your tractor in the shade.
I swear containers make autspergs even more moronic because they relate to them as what they want to be (BIG BOX MOMMY!) rather than understanding their design in order to exploit it. Ever wonder why the military doesn't use them as forms or spall liners?
>>The are only strong in necessary areas
>Jfc none of you morons read the thread at all, one of the other functions of the reinforced concrete is rough protect the weak sides from projectiles and collapsing under load.
The concrete is highly likely to crush or deform the container. Concrete is not light. Wet concrete is not self-supporting. You may be moronic.
The classic Tab Vee is easy to assemble with basic equipment. These pics are old but I chose them because they show the inner form/spall liner in detail. Those bolt together like Steelmaster steel buildings (whose shells are too thin for concrete pours).
https://robdebie.home.xs4all.nl/models/tabvee.htm
Smaller culvert that's larger than shipping container interiors is plentiful and can be ordered to your desired diameter and spec. Note example on trailer is much roomier than a High Cube.
https://stregisculvert.com/products/corrugated-steel-pipe/
>the concrete is highly likely to
stopped reading there, mentioned I took that into account in another post. You didn't read my posts, not going to read yours.
>just do twice the work to bury it above ground
I read your postS. How do you expect to shore everything so the concrete doesn't deform your containers DURING THE FRICKING POUR?
Why do you want to use containers so very badly when you haven't a clue about them? They don't help your concrete adventures and cost more than plain reinforced concrete. Containers have cavities beneath the floors which will fill with water when buried anywhere prone to rain.
mate its a joke
Given the stupidity level it's plausible here so it deserved to be ridiculed like other stupid n1gg3rs who dream ignorant dreams.
nah the container bunker/shelter/cellar is a running gag here, read the parts of the thread giving advice (ie telling him not to do it) and learn what you need, then carry on
I specifically mentioned temporary supports inside the containers. You may know how to read but you don't know shit about reading comprehension. Eat a dick b***h boy, still not reading your irrelevant posts.
They will need to be much larger than you think for concrete. Why do you imagine you want containers? What size are your tractors?
Post makes and models.
>What size are your tractors?
>Post makes and models.
Standard size 50's Hoyt Clagwells.
The height should clear a High Cube. What's the max width?
Not me. Anything from an international 454 to a few farmall h models to some first gen Fortson. even got an old steam model I can't identify that's on blocks right now.
>They will need to be much larger than you think for concrete.
Once again, speculation because you're going into this trying to prove me wrong instead of actually having constructive input. You've decided for yourself how I'm going about this so your input is useless because it doesn't deal with how I'm actually going about this. I spent a few years doing excavating, shoring, pile driving, and trenching, creating safe Confined spaces for anything from pipeline to repairing foundations on antique buildings. I know how to keep 20 feet of dirt from caving in on people with wet, sandy soil. You're not interested in what my plan is or what my expertise are, you care about trying to prove some superiority to me on an anonymous forums based on whatever background you have. I can guarantee though you never attempted what I'm about to do, but yet you feel comfortable acting like you have. Please frick off out of my thread if you don't actually want to have a discussion.
Containers are flat sided and roofed, flexy and weak except at the ends. They have cavities beneath and wooden floors which permit moisture ingress. They don't seal for shit beyond the minimum required for sea freight. They're narrow and cramped unless joined and modified.
What makes them remotely desirable vs the solutions the professionals you assert yourself to be use? What about containers is actually good vs. the usual solutions? They're much thinner than trench boxes and you can dent them with a hammer. Unless the bottom of the whole thing is truly sealed the rather large voids will be water traps needing a sump below them or concrete floor which makes the container pointless. The sump system will have to keep them dry or they'll humidify their contents so a large dehumidifier (commercial size) will be needed. Not hard but keep moisture in mind because tractors deserve love not corrosion.
Why containers? You could drive sheet piles for a better sidewall result than a pathetically thin gcontainer with no waste and a completely open space then roof the room in much stronger steel and pour atop that. I'm curious. You haven't articulated at all what a container offers vs. conventional much stronger construction. If you aren't larping post how you will solve the problems using containers will inflict and what makes them better than alternatives. I'm the only person in these container threads who goes into any detail about the actual containers.
What makes containers superior to an open reinforced concrete bay? 4x HC worth of floor space would make a much more usable facility you can turn around in. 4xHC gutted is a waste of money because you pay for the moisture trap wooden floor. You aren't telling anyone anything so I suspect a larp.
Using a container as a door is bizarre since given your posted skills you could fab any of a variety of more stormproof doors that don't require a crane.
>wooden floors
my dad has two high cubes and they're metal floored
He lucked out. That's atypical but a very good score. Most by far have steel on one end and wood over beams for the other roughly four fifths. Of course there is still the void moisture trap beneath.
OP could get away with layered pours the way Tab Vee shelters are poured in shallow alternating layers to keep from imploding the Wonder Arch beneath. Make removable forms and work your way up. That's strong, far less work, and doesn't require digging more than the foundation but for camo and landscaping he could berm the shell with earth. Shallow pours let cure remove the need for shoring if ya don't go nuts on the layer depth. Less money spent shoring is nice too even if you enjoy the labor. The sides wouldn't cave in even if containers are used but the roof would still require support because container roofs are not sufficently arched. (They're reinforced by corrugations but still flex when walked on.) Movable scaffold-style shoring with jacks wouldn't be hard to fab but you're still buying material that doesn't go into the finished product while a suitably thicc steel arch is self-supporting. While the military uses elaborate scaffolding for speed they could afford it and were getting mortared on the reg which was extra incentive.
Pic shows doing it the hard way in the 1960s. Ya can see why concrete pump trucks superseded the crane and bucket method.
>he collects Hoyt Clagwells
ngmi
>Are there any storm/impact rated steel doors you can drive a car through? You seem informed on the subject.
You'll already have typhoon-rated end doors you can drive through. However unless you only collect small narrow tractors you may need to for example weld two container together, remove the end doors then frame and fab swing-out style doors to get required width.
I study containers heavily and own four, one as a ride-through motorcycle garage and workshop and two joined as machine shop and welding equipment storage/indoor shop.
You should study containers to see what suits your desires. I suggest a single 40' High Cube as a workshop or addition thereto (no dirt daubers and gasketed storage is glorious). Don't buy trash containers for storing stuff that matters because their end gaskets are often bad and they were take out of service because they're unsuitable for commerce. Study container grades. Study container handling. Study container delivery (on a Landoll trailer or similar is typical US practice for 40-footers). Railroad ties beneath the ends work well in firm soils. Know then copy what works for your area. No different area is relevant.
Im not OP, Im asking because containers are both too small in height and the opening too narrow for my uses, but you seemed like somebody who knows about stuff like that. I need doors at about garage width, maybe 10-12ft.
I'd not hassle with a rollup and the heavy framing those require or the room loss of a conventional door. It's easy to weld a frame then attach sheet metal or composite panel of your choice to two hinged doors that span your desired width. Check welding forums for projects because there are a shitload of fabricators who've done all sorts of buildings and doors. I'd post on Weldingweb after lurking and searching.
Thanks man, Ill do that.
>people itt telling OP not to dig
What if instead of building a nuclear proof bunker OP just, I don't know, moves somewhere that isn't apparently threatened by world ending tornadoes?
op doesn't want a nuclear proof bunker, he needs a mach 3 oak tree proof bunker that can survive getting rammed with the force of 1 million tow trucks
Ebin thread OP
Just build an actual shelter and stop this nonsense talk
^Voice of wisdom.
Containers seem to possess people who know nothing about containers and render them moronic. Containers are OK for storing cars but many tractors have much wider tracks than autos which is how I can tell either OP just collects lawn tractors or hates using search engines. Tall tractor tires near the container sidewalls will suck even if babby tractor fits.
Example dimensions for standard containers. My bro stores two antique cars in his with happy results at my recommendation and was smart enough to visit my container shops with a tape measure. There is no room to work on cars inside the boxes of course but we will eventually bridge them with a steel roof to use them as enclosed dry storage and shop space or weld them side by side then remove the interior wall. That would not support a concrete pour without serious shoring since even stock container roofs are quite flexy when walked on. Containers would also require filler between the sides because the widest parts are the ends. I welded 2" strips of 1/8" x 8ft sheet between mine using a suitcase feeder which worked great. Leave welder inside container, run cable to feeder and have at it.
https://www.mrbox.co.uk/pdf/container-dimensions-mr-box.pdf
Continued
https://tuffshippingcontainers.com/what-steel-is-used-to-make-shipping-containers/#:~:text=The%20walls%20on%20small%20shipping,considerably%20thicker%20at%200.187%20inches.
"Are Shipping Containers Bulletproof?
While a standard shipping container isn’t designed to be bulletproof, the National Geographic show ‘Doomsday Preppers’ tested it out. They found that it would indeed stop a .22 caliber long rifle round.
The Canadian YouTube channel ‘Civil Advantage’ tested out even more bullets and found out that a shipping container could also stop a 9mm hollowpoint and 12 gauge buckshot. Here are the bullets that it couldn’t stop:
PolyCase
9mm FMJ
5.56 Frangible
.223 JHP
12 gauge slug
How Thick Is the Metal on a Shipping Container?
The walls on small shipping containers are usually made with 14 gauge corrugated sheet steel panels. The thickness is 0.075 inches, and these panels are welded to the rest of the structure.
The frame, pillars, and rails are 7 gauge tubular steel, which is considerably thicker at 0.187 inches. The corner castings (or corner fittings) are reinforced openings for twist-lock connections. These enable the container to be connected to others or anchor points. They are manufactured to be strong enough for lifting by a crane rig, even when full of goods."
>So the weather as everyone knows is getting really unpredicatable and dangerous
so nothing has changed in forever?
You know what would be really smart, find a parking space that has at least 10 levels and try to talk to the owner of the place. Make a deal, bring in your stuff to level 9 or something, stay away from the rain as possible, protect the equipment has much as possible and done.
You just save yourself a bunch of time and money from a unproven method when the idea of just moving it higher up in parking lots is way better.
nobody that owns and collect tractors lives anywhere near a parking garage.
Would you like to know the big secret? Dome structures are inherently tornado resistant and can "easily" withstand F5 tornado wind.
Get an aircrete/shotcrete monolith is dome made
Make earth walls and cover with trapezoid sheet. Cover trapezoid sheet with Soil to increase weight to avoid suction taking your sheets.
Cheapest option by far. Trapezoid sheets can easily span 4 meters.