I poured self leveling concrete yesterday but the room is around 3-5 degrees celsius and I am unable to warm it beyond that right now.
The bag says it has to be at least 10 C.
Is it going to be fricked?
Will it even cure?
I scratched the surface with my fingernail and it comes off like sand. Maybe that's because it's only been 24 hours, but I'm scared that I permanently fricked it up.
Lets say it's not as strong as it's supposed to be, can I put another 1/2 inch layer of self leveling in the room at proper temperatures to improve the strength of the floor.
I am going to be tiling the area and putting a bathtub on it.
D I WHY THE FRICK DID YOU DO THAT?
I always wanted to see exactly what happens when some dipshit fricks this up. Take pics and video.
so you dont know?
It might work or it might be shitty and break
You dont have blankets or a heater you can put on it?
how do you put blankets on fricking self-leveling mix, dumbass, its a liquid
>how do you put blankets on fricking self-leveling mix, dumbass, its a liquid
>"scratched the surface with my fingernail and it comes off like sand."
How does one "scratch" a liquid?
?
he's talking the day after
moron
Does it stay liquid?
I put a propane heater on and the temperature is probably around 10c now, but it was probably around maybe 2-5c the whole 24 hours yesterday, isnt that the most important period of time?
>as long as it doesnt freeze it should be ok
what about the first 24 hours when it was cold?
I shouldnt be able to scratch some of it off, right?
it might be okay after 2 days but I wont know until then
how much strength will be reduced long term since it was below 10c during the first 24 hours?
>how much strength will be reduced long term since it was below 10c during the first 24 hours?
ok well whats the chemical formula of the mix what was the slab temp, air temp, rh, every 30 seconds?
its either going to take a little longer or its completely fricked. stop scratching it leave it 48h at temp and then see where you are.
if its a garage maybe you need to repour if its a closet maybe flatness is important but strength isnt.
A self leveling mix is going to be loaded with plasticizer. Plasticizer morons the cure. On top of that it’s cold. If it does cure it’s going to take some time.
Blankets do not work that way.
I’m assuming they mean a heating blanket specifically for that purpose. Concrete does create heat on its own through the curing process.
Yes they do
>blankets
lmao
Concrete blankets are a thing but you can also just use normal blankets, insulated tarps, foil, straw etc
Yes?
Are PrepHole people actually this moronic?
>see rhetorical
>blankets
kek. pour some hot cocoa on it too
go buy a torpedo heater
either propane or kero/diesel whatever you prefer
Not very expensive to rent (canadian dollars)
Spotté le québécois.
as long as it doesnt freeze it should be ok just leave it alone nothing you can do for it now anyway
The longer concrete dries the better…youre fricked
well its still going to dry at 5c
Nope, you're fricked..
source?
you're just saying that and you have no idea
I don't know about concrete specifically
But every time I've tried to cure something at a lower temp than is recommended (epoxy, polymeric sand, glue) it stays gummy forever
Best of luck
You fricked big time mate.
Get that out as long as its wet.
Wait so:
1.you poured a self leveling compound on an existing cement slab.
2. The temperature was too low for it to set, and this was like...24 hours ago
3. You realised this and increased the temperature so it would set
Quick google:
>https://www.screedpro.com/post/tb001-applying-self-levelling-compounds-in-cold-weather
>These types of products should not be installed after 2pm on a construction site
where there is no internal heating and when ambient temperatures will drop below 8°C
over night. If the ambient temperature is 8°C the concrete substrate temperature would
be 5-6°C and at these low temperatures cement-based materials are put to sleep and
thus severely affecting the curing process. In most cases the strengths will be greatly
reduced but, in some instances, where the applied product has been put to sleep it may
need to be completely removed and re-done.
So it seems you're way lower than even the minimum temperature and it may not cure properly.
You could wait and see, risk having to remove it. Or you could try removing it while wet, which would probably be a huge frick around as well.
lets say it didn't cure properly and isn't as structurally sound as it should be, can I still tile over it?
I can walk on it just fine. It's just that when I scratch it, some particles come off. Maybe that's because it's only been 30 or so hours?
>Plasticizer morons the cure.
so does that help or hinder me?
Did you eat it too, it seems like you might also be moronic.
no need to be mean anon
yes there is
it's quite important to be mean
Generally, concrete gets harder over time.
Even after 20 years, its hardness still increasing.
My suggestion would be to give it a little longer to cure, and topcoat it with a sealer.
This, to be sure, wait 20 years before you tile over it
> >Plasticizer morons the cure.
>so does that help or hinder me?
What I’m saying is that the concrete you’re using cure’s slowly as it is. Coupled with the cold, it’s going to cure pretty slow. At this point though, if it isn’t set I can’t imagine it ever will. At this point though I doubt it will hurt to give a few days. I’ve had pours I was sure wouldn’t cure and they did. Also you say the top comes off with a fingernail. It’s possible you fricked up the water to the point it bubbled on top but too much that it won’t cure. Mixes with plasticizer are much harder to dial in the water. I make concrete planters with it and I measure everything by weight.
However if you used way too much water you may be screwed and colder environment would make it worse. Proper curing requires many variables you may have done too many improperly.
Concrete isn’t going to set over a long period of time. It has specific windows and if it doesn’t meet them in the first couple days, it never will. The reaction time varies somewhat but not that much. After 28 days it should be at or near 90% anyway so any extra hardening is negligible for most applications.
So my question is…..you GAY
Well at this point I can still scratch some sand off the surface but it's hard and I can walk and jump on it.
Should I just say frick it and tile over it? What would happen over time if it didnt cure properly?
I need to raise it up another 1/2 inch, could I just put another layer of self leveling over top?
>and will be brittle
What's the worst that could happen if I tile over it?
Could I put another 1/2 inch layer of self leveling and then tile over it?
1/2
>Well at this point I can still scratch some sand off the surface
If you mean the very top as in maybe an 1/8 of an inch you may be fine. I wish I could tell you better but I only have experience with making planters. Definitely doesn’t translate to floors completely. I can tell you I’ve had the experience you described and concrete set just fine and was as strong as normal. I think it’s caused by water being a little off and/or air entrainment (which I forgot to mention). It technically makes the mix weaker but it may be strong enough for you.
>but it's hard and I can walk and jump on it.
Definitely a good sign, but again I don’t have experience with floors.
>Should I just say frick it and tile over it? What would happen over time if it didnt cure properly?
It’s curing “properly” now. The question is is it proper enough for the strength you want. You may have gotten all the variables close enough that it will be strong enough. I can’t really say unfortunately. I would try to add weight to it, maybe roll some heavy shit on it and see how it holds up. I’m no chemist but I can’t imagine it will degrade over time. I’ve never seen it happen even when I screwed up the mix. Like I said the question is the final strength.
2/2
>I need to raise it up another 1/2 inch, could I just put another layer of self leveling over top?
You can and especially if the surface of your first pour is rough (scratching sand off) it will bond pretty well. Definitely lay down some acrylic bonding agent first. Don’t let it look or get overly wet because then you’re going to screw your water ratio. You just need a thin film. Again remember you don’t know what the strength of the initial stab is.
Standing back as someone who has nothing to lose either way, if I had to guess I would say as long as it seems to hold up with heavy shit on it and you can scratch the top of but get IMMEDIATELY down to a level where it’s firm and actually concrete, you’re probably ok. Please remember though that like I said I only know from making planters and the biggest one I’ve made is 100 pounds so I’m really no expert.
Your mom certainly doesn't think so.
*Dont let it pool or get overly wet
> acrylic bonding sealer
this. I used this blue stuff and it’s amazing—I’m using the unused remainder as a waterproof glue since it’s got acrylonitrile butadiene in it. this stuff will also ‘lock in’ any sand-like shit on the surface.
When I poured mine, there was this dusty/gritty layer on top and it was done correctly—they say you need to use the bonder between lifts.
also consider laying down a steel mesh of some kind if you’ve got a full 1/2” to work with.
if you can dig out a piece of the old floor, you can mix a tiny bit of the new and let it cure, then compare the two (try breaking it in your hands and whatnot) to get a feel for how the first layer cured.
>Definitely lay down some acrylic bonding agent first
isnt that just for surfaces you are going to paint?
Can you link to to whatever this shit is, preferably home depot
I was going to use mapai waterstop/crack isolation membrane, would this be good enough?
> isnt that just for surfaces you are going to paint?
…. Uh, no? Why would I tell you to use that if it was? I don’t mind helping but are you using google for this at all?
>link
Just google concrete acrylic bonding agent.
>Just google concrete acrylic bonding agent.
ok
Should I use mapai waterstop over the acrylic bonding agent?
it will dry, but it may not properly cure. it will have poor adhesion and will be brittle. sorry mate, its gonna be bad, and will probably need to be redone.
Tried to save time and money using a short cut
Ends up a shit show. Thank God I retired from this business. People these days are so fricking stupid
Im sure many people are glad you retired. Stay mad.
Never knew a happy concrete guy
They're always happy to show you a bank account
Holy frick I could have finished 6 jobs by now
Thus quoth the Raven……never more
OP here
The floor actually hardened pretty good, it doesnt scratch off easy anymore.
I think I'm good.
Thanks frens.
I hope the best for you but you can probably expect significant cracks come spring or summer
Temperature is very important for cement, mortar, grout etc.
I would get some kind of heat on it and see if that will dry it out. If it was well mixed I don't see why it could not still work out.
But if you get some hot heat on it for a day or 2 and it's still acting weird you may need to pull it all up. You can't put a floor over a surface that is acting funny.
It doesn’t dry, it “cures” by chemical reaction.
Well, it does dry, too, but that’s not what hardens it. In fact, you should keep it moist to increase the hydrolysis.
You really should not be posting. No offense but you have no idea what you’re talking about.
Them thars fightn werds mister
It's fuked. We pour self leveling all the time at work. Needs to be clean warm and use lots of primer. Don't pour before primer is dry or it will make soft spots or flake when weight is apllied. Pour when it's cold and it takes to long to cure and becomes soft sand.
Just keep it heated continuously from now on. Either it's fricked or it isn't, you'll only know after at least several days. Given that it's already in, there's no benefit in pondering over it. If it's still crumbly/sandy after a week, then it's probably fricked. If not, wait a couple of days more for good measure and tile over it.
2% chloride next time
Well I just scratched it again and its sandy.
Im going to go ahead and tile the floor. I think the adhesive will help hold the concrete.
Enjoy your tile cracking in a month because you were too moronic and impatient to let your base layer cure properly.
Hey I have an idea
How about you open the front door go outside and play hide and go frick your self
Frick me yourself you coward
Ok once im done with your wife, mother and daughter
Oh, I see, it's not your house, you're playing flipper homosexual and want to do things cheap and moronic and you don't give a shit if it fails for the moron that buys it.
Yeah like you cry baby
Maybe you should practice your english a little more Hispanic.
That all you got old man
*Maybe you should practice your English a little more, Hispanic.
OP here
this homosexual isnt me lmao
its not sandy, it's actually hard
I'm going to use an uncoupling membrane
OP here
Nice try jerkoff.
Its my thread, period. Let it die im pissed off
OP here. I jerked off, now it's really hard. Should I scratch it again?
Kek
You can use uncoupling membrane if you’re worried about cracking.
Spell check man lives here.
member old PrepHole before the trolls found it, everyone was nice and helpful and nobody could spell for shit but it was ok? I member.
The first five minutes after PrepHole got created? Sure, it became more bitter, but it was never all nice and helpful.
>it was never all nice and helpful.
Why should anyone expect it to be nice when some homosexual thinks baby speak is cool (member? is he fricking 5?).
You sure do cry a lot.
Its ole man grammar nazi
You sure do cry a lot.
Ok, boomer.
Oh look, someone who hasnt been here very long.
In my experience, it takes a lot longer to set, but as long as it doesn't freeze, it should be ok. Whether or not it'll be as strong, I can't say. You're an idiot for not reading the instructions/getting a heater/picking a more suitable product.
As to putting another layer on top of a fricked first layer... Do I really need to tell you?
Mind your own business dickhead. I got your idiot hangin b***h. The outer layer sealed the deal, looks perfect. Its as hard and ready for tile
what is your endgame, false flagger?
Tile is done, thinset is setting.
Thanks for the input fellas and eat cold dog shit to the troll that tried to derail my thread
I'm looking for a concrete simulate to lay over a plywood sub floor. Just looking for the effect, I doubt the floor is strong enough to handle the weight of real concrete.
I can find vinyl tiles as big as 32x32" but would prefer a single seemless sheet. I found one vendor with linoleum sheets but priced at $6/sqft, very high for linoleum. Anyone know any vendors that might have what I'm looking for?
Concretefloorstore.com
I'm going to follow this link and it's going to be fake, then I'll feel moronic, won't i?
I followed it for you. It's real.
i did this before...it seemed ok for a few weeks until it started crumbling to pieces. we rented a concrete grinder and had to epoxy over it afterword
You should be fine eventually. However, the cure will be shitty and long-term it will show you fricked up. Perhaps you can put a skim coat or rent a time machine and go back to before your mistake.
I already tiled the floor Mr. R. V. Winkle
I swear to god if YOU TROLLS DON'T STOP RUINING MY THREAD I'LL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Ok the floor is starting to crumble. It looks like the salt flats. Im hoping it will flow out and harden
Op here. So it's basically crumbling away anywhere I walk. You think it's safe to just tile over it? Will the tiles keep it together?
you can stop false flagging, the thread is over now
Have you thoroughly soaked the slab before pouring your concrete?
Actual concrete inspector here. Concrete will be ok as long as it didn't freeze. The strength comes from a process where tiny crystals form in the mix locking everything together as it dries. They will still form in cold weather just not as fast. If I was OP, I would ensure the slab was constantly moist for a period of at least 7 days, mist with a garden hose every day, if it the mix dries out too soon while the weather is cool you will not get as good of crystal formation.
t. ancient roman
Cover it in a light plastic mil sheeting as well
Dont end my thread, trying to get help here fool
You guys are super duper and such great help
what is your endgame?
what is your endgame
what is your endgame?
Whats with these fricking trolls.
My floor is drying / curing nicely. I appreciate your advice diyrs
Run a couple of fan heaters until it cures maybe?
It probably shouldn't be beyond repare.
Like fr it should just curious after a longer time.
So ive been running the heaters all night.
Its right at 100 deg in there. Ill keep this up until sunday. Jeez kerosene is expensive I’ve already burned close to 30 gal
How stupid are you OP ?
The shit is toast. You have to be the dumbest anon in the history of diy
hey guys update, I put 5 heaters and the temps are about 180f, it's a bit hot in there but will probably help the concrete dry, house is smoki a little, so i clogged the sinks and ran water, nice and wet now
softened teh concrete right up and now i can comfortably lay in it, like a waterbed very nice
Also painted over the concrete with lead paint cuz lead is a metal and metal is hard it will keep it together
im a bit dizzy and sleepy now so i will take a nap here on the floor
thanks 4 all the hleps u guys are grate
Whats your end game mister ?
a good... nghts rest.. anyone thatposts after me isnt real op goodbye anons.. going without stoo sleep and dizzy
zzzzz
post a photo anon wtf
frick off everyone, it's drying just fine.
no YOU frick off, fricking op impersonator, i'm op, stop posting random fricking photos of your own basement, i'm op and here's what the wet/dry/sandy/hard/soft concrete looks like right now:
pic is basement floor of course
and here's what it looks like when i scratch a bit off
any tips, anons?
>image not on google
>those cracks
...OP....
rip op
REAL OP HERE, IDK WHY SOME PEOPLE ARE TRYING TO IMPERSONATE ME?!?
THERE ARE NO CRACKS. I SMOKE CRACK. I STEAL COPPER WIRE FROM ABANDONED BUILDINGS OKAY? WE ARE NOT THE SAME.
When I posted this thread I had absolutely no idea that any of this might happen. In fact…humdadeedee Ill mention this in church tomorrow.
Theres a lesson here friends
Muriatric acid.
I put peanut butter on it as mortar and tiled it.
The tiles slide around a bit, but it's pretty tolerable.
Shes just about dry Hoping to have this puppy wrapped up by the 4th…of July
God dammit PrepHole I read the whole thread and OP never once fricking mentions:
>IS IT FRICKIGN LEVEL OR NOT?