>Would this be fixable by TIG welding in filler, sanding and re-bluing?
in theory yes, but there's a risk of ruining the heat treatment and creating a safety hazard for no good reason.
I'm sure the risk simply isn't worth it. electroplating could work. you'd have to build a custom electrolytic cell around the barrel (plastic container+holes+silicone seal) and mask the intact areas, but it should work.
apply penetrating oil, let it sit over night.
rub it off with fine steel wool or a brass brush. apply some proper corrosion inhibitor after cleanup. oil is better than nothing but worse than some other things.
hoppes no 9 oil. Rub it on with a rag, let it dry. Repeat this a few times over the course of a few days. You will get a nice polymer varnish from the dried oil, and it will protect your gun for years.
Reapply the Hoppes every six months or so, and make sure to deeply huff the banana scent of it.
I think he's confusing hoppes gun oil and hoppes no 9
what one
4 months ago
Anonymous
The one of the left is mineral oil plus some solvent that evaporates so it works in an aerosol spray can It's basically the same thing as WD-40. The one on the right is mineral oil with some additive in it which they are calling "weatherguard", I don't know what that is but it should say on the back of the label or the MSDS.
4 months ago
Anonymous
composition of the oil with "weatherguard". looks rather meh to me.
Scrub with a bronze brush dipped in a mixture of ballistol and water (anywhere from 1:4-1:10 ratio works).
Dry with cleaning patch or paper towel.
Rub down barrel with cleaning patch dipped in neatsfoot oil or similar.
Remove excess with dry patch.
Remaining oil will be enough to protect from rust.
Store in dry environment. Apply more oil in humid climate.
Long answer: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=rShG_F85W1Y
Short answer: boil the steel components to convert the rust back to bluing, then use some fine soft steel wool to gently take the remaining oxide off. Then keep it greased/oiled/waxed to prevent further rust. If using oil be careful not to let it run into the stock because it can soak it and cause staining and damage.
Activate the almonds for sure. Also put on a pair of wet socks before bed and sleep with garlic cloves in your ears. If you do this for several weeks rust will never come for you or ypur loved ones again.
So I dont have anything besides CLP and havent used anything else for many years. It seems to work, but also appears to dry up/evaporate somewhat quickly, maybe after a month or two?
Anyways for guns that arent being shot regularly and are stored I generally take them out do a fairly thorough cleaning and apply CLP. Im not pouring it on, just a nice thin layer on surfaces with a rag and if I want to get in crevices Ill put some on a pipe cleaner and rub it around. Ive lived in some humid/damp environments over the years and not had rust by just doing the surfaces at least with a nice coat of CLP.
keep your shit clean and oiled
Yeah these but I have an off-handed question.
Would this be fixable by TIG welding in filler, sanding and re-bluing? I've never heard of this being done.
>Would this be fixable by TIG welding in filler, sanding and re-bluing?
in theory yes, but there's a risk of ruining the heat treatment and creating a safety hazard for no good reason.
I supposed you'd have to have a really good welder and a bull barrel to make it conceivable.
I'm sure the risk simply isn't worth it. electroplating could work. you'd have to build a custom electrolytic cell around the barrel (plastic container+holes+silicone seal) and mask the intact areas, but it should work.
Clever
currently in the process of building an electrolytic cell to tin coat bullets. probably wouldn't have thought of it otherwise.
Just use brass wool to clean the rust off and wipe it down with a lightly oiled rag.
Have you tried rubbing it with an almond?
An actived almond?
yes but what about the rust on the gun
apply penetrating oil, let it sit over night.
rub it off with fine steel wool or a brass brush. apply some proper corrosion inhibitor after cleanup. oil is better than nothing but worse than some other things.
frick ya mudda
i got something for you! Use a nylon brush and rub liquid into the pitting, so its sealing the deep spots against further demage... easy
hoppes no 9 oil. Rub it on with a rag, let it dry. Repeat this a few times over the course of a few days. You will get a nice polymer varnish from the dried oil, and it will protect your gun for years.
Reapply the Hoppes every six months or so, and make sure to deeply huff the banana scent of it.
This, except if you use Corrosion X, you'll only have to reapply every year and a half.
Plus CX has higher capillary properties.
>hoppes no 9 oil
that's just mineral oil.
>found the person who has never used Hoppe's.
You are challenged to put hoppe's no9 on a rag and sit with it in an enclosed space for a period of 15 minutes.
I think he's confusing hoppes gun oil and hoppes no 9
they branded everything "no 9".
pic related is white mineral oil.
what one
The one of the left is mineral oil plus some solvent that evaporates so it works in an aerosol spray can It's basically the same thing as WD-40. The one on the right is mineral oil with some additive in it which they are calling "weatherguard", I don't know what that is but it should say on the back of the label or the MSDS.
composition of the oil with "weatherguard". looks rather meh to me.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/WD-40-SPECIALIST-6-5-oz-Corrosion-Inhibitor-Long-Lasting-Anti-Rust-Spray-300035/300719560
Fill with jb weld, sandpaper off until it's flush
Black person job.
Scrub with a bronze brush dipped in a mixture of ballistol and water (anywhere from 1:4-1:10 ratio works).
Dry with cleaning patch or paper towel.
Rub down barrel with cleaning patch dipped in neatsfoot oil or similar.
Remove excess with dry patch.
Remaining oil will be enough to protect from rust.
Store in dry environment. Apply more oil in humid climate.
Long answer: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=rShG_F85W1Y
Short answer: boil the steel components to convert the rust back to bluing, then use some fine soft steel wool to gently take the remaining oxide off. Then keep it greased/oiled/waxed to prevent further rust. If using oil be careful not to let it run into the stock because it can soak it and cause staining and damage.
Activate the almonds for sure. Also put on a pair of wet socks before bed and sleep with garlic cloves in your ears. If you do this for several weeks rust will never come for you or ypur loved ones again.
So I dont have anything besides CLP and havent used anything else for many years. It seems to work, but also appears to dry up/evaporate somewhat quickly, maybe after a month or two?
Anyways for guns that arent being shot regularly and are stored I generally take them out do a fairly thorough cleaning and apply CLP. Im not pouring it on, just a nice thin layer on surfaces with a rag and if I want to get in crevices Ill put some on a pipe cleaner and rub it around. Ive lived in some humid/damp environments over the years and not had rust by just doing the surfaces at least with a nice coat of CLP.