That's just it, rulers of that type aren't strictly measuring instuments and are used as a straight edge as well.
So besides measuring accuracy and visiblity and durability of the markings, there's other factors that can make one or another better suited to a particular straight edge application like a non-slip backing, a standoff relief amd possibly top bevel to prevent interference with drafting tools and materials like ink and pencil lead, not having that relief if you are using them to guide a knife or other cutting tool, rigidity for using them on their side to measure straightness of a surface or to measure and lay out increments along curves...
>Wouldnt this heat the piece, causing it to expand and frick up the calibration?
You friction drilling that shit?
No drilling with a normal sharp drill bit will barely heat the metal up at all and definitely not enough to distort a freakin' ruler enough to make it inaccurate.
metal > plastic for rulers, some metal have a cork spacer and you can cut/scribe against the edge without damaging it. thickness edge and spacer/no spacer (
plastic > metal for calipers. the metal ones are heavy and I'm afraid to scratch or gouge anything, for non-machinist work the sub 10 dollar Amazon calipers are accurate enough and have lasted me through two batteries and getting soaked/fritzing out and hundreds of measures.
Does anyone have a carpenter's pencil sharp enough to use those?
And if they did, why destroy such a point in doing so?
are you retarted? carpenter pencil sharpeners leave a stupid long lead with a weird taper that's perfect for those, plus if you don't have a blade to fix, but honestly I'm whipping out a sharpie or a normal pencil because I just have a drawer full of pens and pencils of all sorts in my tool cabinet.
The one on the left has finer graduations? Looks like half mm's on the bottom. The one on the right is just mm. I'm on mobile and am over 50, so they both look a little like a potato though.
Really if you accidentally run sandpaper or whatever over a simple painted one you lose markings. Also soft ones have the tendency that the corners get progressively sharper. And can get damaged when you run a Stanley knife along it
The expensive metal ones likely have an extra machining step where the corners aren’t all super fricking sharp and will slice you, at least calipers are like that.
I use picrel. >MADE IN THE USA
Helps me remember my alphabet as well, if only you knew how often I forget about the letters O, and PacMan.
Those kinds of templates are made for use with a mechanical pencil or Rapidograph style pen.
Carpenters pencils have their place but for close tolerance and detail work a standard pencil or mechanical one is superior, and in the case of the mechanical one never needs sharpening
Been meaning to try pic related or a knockoff, they’re thicker lead than a regular mechanical pencil, but the long tip is meant for getting in holes and such. A lot of the Chinesium knockoff sets on Amazon for $15-$25 include a red and yellow one as well.
Could be the thickness of the metal which does have a massive impact on how the ruler handles in real life.
have one of these and hate it/never use it
The graduations are different on each side/edge. 1/8ths, 1/5s, 1/10ths, 1/100ths, 1/6ths, etc. Normally, as an engineer, I would like something like this but no one uses a straight edge ruler for actual measurement when calipers and thickness gauges exist. Hence, the main application is for marking. For marking, its unbelievably frustrating to have to flip the ruler around 6 different ways to finally find an edge that has 1/32nds marking which is the smallest useful increment in most DIY and home applications.
There is also no way to hang them up. The triangular shape pushes the edges into your work surface so they are very likely to smudge pen and pencil and will always accumulate ink/lead on the edge itself if used with pen/pencil.
Depends on your line of work. I'm an architectural draftsman and I design houses so I use mine just about daily for getting measurements off of plans and diagrams and such. The architect's scale for floor plans, the engineer's scale for site plans. Obviously if you don't have a job that requires you to work with plans that are drawn at scale then they're kind of useless to you.
Could be the thickness of the metal which does have a massive impact on how the ruler handles in real life.
have one of these and hate it/never use it
The graduations are different on each side/edge. 1/8ths, 1/5s, 1/10ths, 1/100ths, 1/6ths, etc. Normally, as an engineer, I would like something like this but no one uses a straight edge ruler for actual measurement when calipers and thickness gauges exist. Hence, the main application is for marking. For marking, its unbelievably frustrating to have to flip the ruler around 6 different ways to finally find an edge that has 1/32nds marking which is the smallest useful increment in most DIY and home applications.
There is also no way to hang them up. The triangular shape pushes the edges into your work surface so they are very likely to smudge pen and pencil and will always accumulate ink/lead on the edge itself if used with pen/pencil.
>Rulers >what is the difference?
The people who need to know the difference refer to these as "rules" not "rulers"
The fact that you call it a "ruler" means for you there's no difference, and you can buy the cheaper one.
the brand is different, but for the most part a lot of cheap scales are pretty much the same just with different printing(they tend to be given out as merch from suppliers)
i keep pic rel in my shirt pocket and use it just about anytime i need to eyeball measure something(also a tool and die maker not a woodworker)
tools really come down to what brands you as an individual trust, as 99% of brands will be functionally the same
Also I guess thread for other measuring instruments.
That's just it, rulers of that type aren't strictly measuring instuments and are used as a straight edge as well.
So besides measuring accuracy and visiblity and durability of the markings, there's other factors that can make one or another better suited to a particular straight edge application like a non-slip backing, a standoff relief amd possibly top bevel to prevent interference with drafting tools and materials like ink and pencil lead, not having that relief if you are using them to guide a knife or other cutting tool, rigidity for using them on their side to measure straightness of a surface or to measure and lay out increments along curves...
multitool
>open parcels
>as thick feeler gauge
>trigger inductive sensors
>clean fingernails
>scrape paint, grime, cancerous sludge
>measure
>straightedge
>check surfaces for level
>stir coffee
>cut cake
>smear butter on bread
did i forget something?
>did i forget something?
Cutting cocaine into lines
penis sounding
>dulling the edge of you're precision instrument to open a letter
I bet you also don't get them calibrated
>Literally, what is the difference?
the made in australia tax. you have too much time on your hands if you're researching 150mm rulers
lol didn't realize australia made any tools anymore
We only make basic shit these days, anything too complex we ship to china because nobody wants to pay for it being made here
Thickness of each? Method of inscription?
It's fine to pay extra if necessary to make sure it has a hanging hole.
Just drill a hole yourself baka
Wouldnt this heat the piece, causing it to expand and frick up the calibration?
>Wouldnt this heat the piece, causing it to expand and frick up the calibration?
You friction drilling that shit?
No drilling with a normal sharp drill bit will barely heat the metal up at all and definitely not enough to distort a freakin' ruler enough to make it inaccurate.
maybe one is certified to be accurate.
guy at work cut >100 pieces steel tubing every one was to short 1 inch because they forgot one on his tape measure kek
>they forgot one on his tape measure kek
this used to happen a lot when they labeled them by hand.
metal > plastic for rulers, some metal have a cork spacer and you can cut/scribe against the edge without damaging it. thickness edge and spacer/no spacer (
)
plastic > metal for calipers. the metal ones are heavy and I'm afraid to scratch or gouge anything, for non-machinist work the sub 10 dollar Amazon calipers are accurate enough and have lasted me through two batteries and getting soaked/fritzing out and hundreds of measures.
are you retarted? carpenter pencil sharpeners leave a stupid long lead with a weird taper that's perfect for those, plus if you don't have a blade to fix, but honestly I'm whipping out a sharpie or a normal pencil because I just have a drawer full of pens and pencils of all sorts in my tool cabinet.
The one on the left has finer graduations? Looks like half mm's on the bottom. The one on the right is just mm. I'm on mobile and am over 50, so they both look a little like a potato though.
Engraved inscriptions >>> painted
Really if you accidentally run sandpaper or whatever over a simple painted one you lose markings. Also soft ones have the tendency that the corners get progressively sharper. And can get damaged when you run a Stanley knife along it
The expensive metal ones likely have an extra machining step where the corners aren’t all super fricking sharp and will slice you, at least calipers are like that.
I use picrel.
>MADE IN THE USA
Helps me remember my alphabet as well, if only you knew how often I forget about the letters O, and PacMan.
>picrel.
Also no sharp edges so I don’t hurt myself as much.
Does anyone have a carpenter's pencil sharp enough to use those?
And if they did, why destroy such a point in doing so?
Those kinds of templates are made for use with a mechanical pencil or Rapidograph style pen.
Carpenters pencils have their place but for close tolerance and detail work a standard pencil or mechanical one is superior, and in the case of the mechanical one never needs sharpening
Been meaning to try pic related or a knockoff, they’re thicker lead than a regular mechanical pencil, but the long tip is meant for getting in holes and such. A lot of the Chinesium knockoff sets on Amazon for $15-$25 include a red and yellow one as well.
Pretty sure I have a chinese knockoff
It is ok but not an ideal tool for getting into very deep holes. The lead breaks pretty easily. You have to sharpen the lead too.
For my wood working hobby ive reverted to just using #2 pencils
Solid aluminum scales. You'll never bend them or break them and they can be used as a weapon in a pinch.
Could be the thickness of the metal which does have a massive impact on how the ruler handles in real life.
have one of these and hate it/never use it
The graduations are different on each side/edge. 1/8ths, 1/5s, 1/10ths, 1/100ths, 1/6ths, etc. Normally, as an engineer, I would like something like this but no one uses a straight edge ruler for actual measurement when calipers and thickness gauges exist. Hence, the main application is for marking. For marking, its unbelievably frustrating to have to flip the ruler around 6 different ways to finally find an edge that has 1/32nds marking which is the smallest useful increment in most DIY and home applications.
There is also no way to hang them up. The triangular shape pushes the edges into your work surface so they are very likely to smudge pen and pencil and will always accumulate ink/lead on the edge itself if used with pen/pencil.
Don't buy.
Depends on your line of work. I'm an architectural draftsman and I design houses so I use mine just about daily for getting measurements off of plans and diagrams and such. The architect's scale for floor plans, the engineer's scale for site plans. Obviously if you don't have a job that requires you to work with plans that are drawn at scale then they're kind of useless to you.
so they made the measuring function in Solidworks into a physical thing in real life? Clever
bro cmon
this is so funny to read, fricking lol
>have one of these and hate it/never use it
That's an architect's scale ruler used for making and reading scale drawings, not for general measurements or markings.
https://mtcopeland.com/blog/what-is-an-architect-scale-ruler-and-how-do-you-use-one/
yeah, the kind of metal, thickness and/or profile of the ruler makes it easier or harder to bend which in turn impacts accuracy over time.
Jeez, time to learn autocad eh?
For me? It's mitutoyo
>Rulers
>what is the difference?
The people who need to know the difference refer to these as "rules" not "rulers"
The fact that you call it a "ruler" means for you there's no difference, and you can buy the cheaper one.
>The people who need to know the difference refer to these as "rules" not "rulers"
are we being invaded by the Legion of Pedantic Shitheads.
I bet you’re a big hit at parties.
the brand is different, but for the most part a lot of cheap scales are pretty much the same just with different printing(they tend to be given out as merch from suppliers)
i keep pic rel in my shirt pocket and use it just about anytime i need to eyeball measure something(also a tool and die maker not a woodworker)
tools really come down to what brands you as an individual trust, as 99% of brands will be functionally the same
>Not using an Official c**t Hair Ruler...
NGMI.
that shit looks flimsy af, i like how my starrett one is also a scraper, box cutter and on occasion a flat head screwdriver
>that shit looks flimsy af, i like how my starrett one is also a scraper, box cutter and on occasion a flat head screwdriver
NGMI