Big black one. I got the two sided bottom one a while back for work and its more plastic than rubber. Not suited for paving work or tapping steel, it will break and deform things.
Actually I’m getting the mulatto. I normally use a rubber mallet for wacking together cheap af shelves and furniture, so the non-marking end will get a lot of use.
Get both. The small two sided one is for very delicate work and the BIG BLACK Cmallet is for bashing on larger parts. If you only pick one, get the big one because just use the screwdriver handle for small work.
Dead blows are one of those things you don’t understand as a rookie, but they’re based. I barely ever use the bouncy rubber mallet anymore. Feels like you get 2x-3x the energy out of it for similar size rubber one.
The little brass head one has treated me well too. They’re cheap dead blows but I’ll grab a better one if I manage to frick it up. Home Depots around me just cleaned up their hammer selection and have a handful of Husky and Estwing deadblows depending on your budget, and Husky is cool if you manage to crack it hitting something sharp real hard repeatedly.
Be a good cunsoomer, buy 'merican:
https://garlandmfg.com/mallets/products.html
https://trustycook.com/dead-blow-hammers/
https://www.abchammers.com/cat-44-1-4/dead-blow-hammers.htm?filtered=yes#categoryFiltered
DFH-12. I own examples of both. The Estwing is far better for mechanics use. I almost never use my rubber mallets but use my variety of replaceable head mallets (including older copper and lead pucks) about daily.
2 different tools. The BBM and a small brass hammer would be better for all round use if you also have some cardboard and wood pieces around. Those could cover just about anything. I've yet to find a use for one of those dual face mallets outside of installing floating floors, like the composite tounge and groove kind. It works fine with any low weight hammer though, since you'll be hitting a spoon most of the time. The softer faces just help if you suck and miss the 1 inch wide strike surface. Even things like inserting pistons into an engine block you'd benefit more from a wooden mallet, a rubber one would would if you wipe the surface with a solvent afterwards.
Go to your local hardware store, instead of buying Chinese products, you will receive the Chinese curse, which means any project you work on will fall apart resulting somebodies death, this becomes ten times more likely if you're working on installing an escalator/elevator.
>hard tips
Big black one. I got the two sided bottom one a while back for work and its more plastic than rubber. Not suited for paving work or tapping steel, it will break and deform things.
Good to know, will go with the BBM, thanks
Actually I’m getting the mulatto. I normally use a rubber mallet for wacking together cheap af shelves and furniture, so the non-marking end will get a lot of use.
You can just use a regular hammer for that.
Also dont buy from Amazon your corporate prostitute. Buy from local retailers.
I was drunk and couldn’t drive
Get both. The small two sided one is for very delicate work and the BIG BLACK Cmallet is for bashing on larger parts. If you only pick one, get the big one because just use the screwdriver handle for small work.
The estwing is made in the USA
I have one and its nice.
rubber is springy and some of the force will go back into your wrist, find a dead blow hammer your wrist will feel better.
Dead blows are one of those things you don’t understand as a rookie, but they’re based. I barely ever use the bouncy rubber mallet anymore. Feels like you get 2x-3x the energy out of it for similar size rubber one.
The little brass head one has treated me well too. They’re cheap dead blows but I’ll grab a better one if I manage to frick it up. Home Depots around me just cleaned up their hammer selection and have a handful of Husky and Estwing deadblows depending on your budget, and Husky is cool if you manage to crack it hitting something sharp real hard repeatedly.
Be a good cunsoomer, buy 'merican:
https://garlandmfg.com/mallets/products.html
https://trustycook.com/dead-blow-hammers/
https://www.abchammers.com/cat-44-1-4/dead-blow-hammers.htm?filtered=yes#categoryFiltered
Brass is okay. But if you want true longevity use lead. When it gets too mangled to use just melt it down and repour it.
>lead
>just create alzheimers microparticles every time you use it
ok boomer
What's stopping you from doing the same with brass? You don't even need to melt it. Just hammer it back in.
i used a dead blow to crush some garlic cloves yesterday
it worked great
They are great, except when the orange plastic shit breaks off which it absolutely will. A solid rubber mallet will last longer.
just get one not made from orange plastic
Doesnt look like you could do paving with that. Probably crack the concrete paving stones.
my mechanics has a great video on how these things work.
DFH-12. I own examples of both. The Estwing is far better for mechanics use. I almost never use my rubber mallets but use my variety of replaceable head mallets (including older copper and lead pucks) about daily.
>supporting god's given city on a hill country estwing or some bullsht tekton
why do you hate liberty, anon?
2 different tools. The BBM and a small brass hammer would be better for all round use if you also have some cardboard and wood pieces around. Those could cover just about anything. I've yet to find a use for one of those dual face mallets outside of installing floating floors, like the composite tounge and groove kind. It works fine with any low weight hammer though, since you'll be hitting a spoon most of the time. The softer faces just help if you suck and miss the 1 inch wide strike surface. Even things like inserting pistons into an engine block you'd benefit more from a wooden mallet, a rubber one would would if you wipe the surface with a solvent afterwards.
Go to your local hardware store, instead of buying Chinese products, you will receive the Chinese curse, which means any project you work on will fall apart resulting somebodies death, this becomes ten times more likely if you're working on installing an escalator/elevator.
do you need to whack precisely in small places?
or vigorously and without concern except for strength?