well I'm not going to want to block doorways or windows obviously, and this is an example house, the one I'm considering doing this to is a single story, and because of it's age and history I'd like for it to be a very clean and professional looking job. anyone got any resources I can read/watch?
Since I assume you are somewhere in europe or the UK (prolly UK) for this. You need waterlines to come in from the ground, i dont know the specifics but you can find it online of how far waterlines should be so they dont freeze.
As far as im concerned if I were to tackle it, I wouldnt be worried at all to dig down about 30-40 cm in the dirt, and drill in a part of the foundation / some opening, and push the water through there. Same goes for the electrical.
In terms of wiring electrical in a house like this, well, you'd probably anyway have to frame things in order to have outlets etc, so youd just wire the electrical as one normally would do in the framing. Other than that, there are surely other options if you want the stone-look. But thats beyond my knowledge.
The walls are surprisingly intact. You could probably ask a mason the type of lime mortar used, make it yourself cheaply, put fallen stones back in place from the bottom up, and repoint all the mortar.
For power, block up part of one window with solid planks of wood, build a shed style enclosed porch around the house, run the pipes through the ground to the porch, and then up through the porch and through the window.
You could also dig and pour a foundation inside and around the house, build an expansion around the stone house, and then terminate utilities inside the expansion.
Once inside the cottage, put up a layer of pumice or expanded clay behind a wood panel wall, and put the utilities inside that wall.
Gay moron doesn't understand the work/expense involved is an order of magnitude more than fixing it.
Tacked onto the walls. Looks like shit as well. What a shitty way to live
Just build an interior wall.
Realize they're better left alone as a historical curiosity than a modern dwelling. >no you don't understand, I love living in drafty mud huts with my wiring Black person rigged to the walls
t. moron
Depends on what you mean, if you're going to inhabit a derelict house you bought, you'll need to contact the water/electricity/gas company or whatever your local thing is and get them to connect the property to mains. They will rob you blind though.
As for conduits inside the house, that's easy. Just go from where the various mains pipe/wire enters the house to where you want it in the appropriate thickness
This, but if have enough roof area and reliable water for cisterns/pond or good ground water than Ignore the water utility if legal.
https://i.imgur.com/ULd2P2W.jpg
honestly dont listen to these morons
that thing is very well built and insulated basically
1 take all the floor out
to dirt
pour cement to level floor and sturdy structure with rebar foundation
2, brand new trusses and roof
your choice of material
but you can go cheap and put aluminum metal roof, who cares they look nice too
3. prob need to retruss the 2nd floor unlesss you want a giant room.
divide some wall up with drywall or some brick
4. install water heater and electrical
but its a fricking regular house rebuild
like we do in cali allday
also when you pour concrete just put a bathroom or septic pipe
Agree w/ this anon, but wood panel > drywall, plus if you build a 1 story wraparound expansion or solar porch (roof/walls are greenhouse) then you will counter much of the heat loss. Then build a berm & plant trees 20+ feet away on north side to block winter winds & you're good.
insulation value = zero.
that rock will reach outdoor ambient temperature and suck the heat right out of the building... and in the summer it will transfer the heat inside. you are stupid.
Wraparound expansion or greenhouse porch, winter wind berm/trees, expanded clay or pumice insulation (better moisture control), and wooden interior walls for moisture control. Roof structure/insulation is like ~50% of heat loss too.
Realize they're better left alone as a historical curiosity than a modern dwelling. >no you don't understand, I love living in drafty mud huts with my wiring Black person rigged to the walls
Depends on what you mean, if you're going to inhabit a derelict house you bought, you'll need to contact the water/electricity/gas company or whatever your local thing is and get them to connect the property to mains. They will rob you blind though.
As for conduits inside the house, that's easy. Just go from where the various mains pipe/wire enters the house to where you want it in the appropriate thickness
>very well built
Agreed >and insulated
Frick no, this place would be freezing in the winter and the damp would be terrible
Agree with pouring a concrete slab but depending on the stone and mortar joints position he may also have to install some type of damp course in the walls to stop moisture wicking. Then insulate and slab out the interior running utilities behind them out of sight. It's very doable but could get pricy
insulation value = zero.
that rock will reach outdoor ambient temperature and suck the heat right out of the building... and in the summer it will transfer the heat inside. you are stupid.
>very well built
Agreed >and insulated
Frick no, this place would be freezing in the winter and the damp would be terrible
Agree with pouring a concrete slab but depending on the stone and mortar joints position he may also have to install some type of damp course in the walls to stop moisture wicking. Then insulate and slab out the interior running utilities behind them out of sight. It's very doable but could get pricy
to insulate something like this (if you want to preserve the stone look) you use a interior insualtion typicly wood fibre or something ecological which is breathable.
since interior insulation is verry prone to mold since the water condenses between the insualtion and the still cold stone you tipicaly use wall heating plastered in clay.
this way the insualtion is always warm and dry and since its all wood firbre and clay it can dry again and mold is impossible. and you feel comfort with lower room (air) temperatures since the walls are warm and not cold. if you put enought loops in the wall and the floors to you can run the system with really low water temperatures which means a condensing oil burner works great or even a heat pump runns efficient.
put this into ubakus.de where you can select climate and wall type and it calculates U-value (r-Value )
as you can see interiour insualtion if difficult 2 litres almost half an gallon water condensate every sqware meter of the wall, with styrofoam or a vapor barrier trapping that that would be mold heaven but the clay and wood fibre dry faster (cant be calculated by the calculator yet.)
interior wall temperature is mold medigating even without wall heating
R-Value is not great not terrible better than what code required in 95, worse than what code required in 14 for new construction.
>hydrostatic barrier
you mean a vapor barier or moroner?
on paper it looks good and you would get much less condesation in calculations like
https://i.imgur.com/GKI79EI.png
put this into ubakus.de where you can select climate and wall type and it calculates U-value (r-Value )
as you can see interiour insualtion if difficult 2 litres almost half an gallon water condensate every sqware meter of the wall, with styrofoam or a vapor barrier trapping that that would be mold heaven but the clay and wood fibre dry faster (cant be calculated by the calculator yet.)
interior wall temperature is mold medigating even without wall heating
R-Value is not great not terrible better than what code required in 95, worse than what code required in 14 for new construction.
but its basicly impossible to make it 100% perfect on a real world construction site,
every socket every switch. all the windows have to be sealed with much care and then you still get flank diffusion with moisture getting in the exterior walls where they meet the interiour walls.
using clay is just low tech, unlikley to be fricked up, it gets wet but dries out again much better than wet glass wool behind a plastic foil never drying again.
on the heating. i think in europoor problems oil furnaces are outlawed in 2026, co2 tax will frick the existing oil users really hard in the future, so its important to build systems to be ready for heat pumps and for that you want as much surface as possible allowing it to run the most efficient with low water temperatures, basicly allowing the heat pump to run 24/7 on the same load not over or underheating, if you over power it like a oil burner it cycles and fails early.
but even with a condensing oil burner you want the water temperature to be low for more condensation.
>and in the summer it will transfer the heat inside. you are stupid.
i guarantee you it will stay at constant temperature 24/7 in summer.
whitout AC even the best insualted house will get warm, for heat protection you need mass mass and more mass buffering the heat of the day and cold of the night.
that only works were the median temperature is good, which in many places is not. An insulated house can be cooled in the coldest hours in summer, and heated in the warmest hours in winter
a mix between thermal inertia and insulation is the best
Look for existing openings. That place has a lot of them, on every visible surface.
well I'm not going to want to block doorways or windows obviously, and this is an example house, the one I'm considering doing this to is a single story, and because of it's age and history I'd like for it to be a very clean and professional looking job. anyone got any resources I can read/watch?
Since I assume you are somewhere in europe or the UK (prolly UK) for this. You need waterlines to come in from the ground, i dont know the specifics but you can find it online of how far waterlines should be so they dont freeze.
As far as im concerned if I were to tackle it, I wouldnt be worried at all to dig down about 30-40 cm in the dirt, and drill in a part of the foundation / some opening, and push the water through there. Same goes for the electrical.
In terms of wiring electrical in a house like this, well, you'd probably anyway have to frame things in order to have outlets etc, so youd just wire the electrical as one normally would do in the framing. Other than that, there are surely other options if you want the stone-look. But thats beyond my knowledge.
in the ground, via the floor
knock it down and start over
gonna need a knocking loicense
oi and a permit
The walls are surprisingly intact. You could probably ask a mason the type of lime mortar used, make it yourself cheaply, put fallen stones back in place from the bottom up, and repoint all the mortar.
For power, block up part of one window with solid planks of wood, build a shed style enclosed porch around the house, run the pipes through the ground to the porch, and then up through the porch and through the window.
You could also dig and pour a foundation inside and around the house, build an expansion around the stone house, and then terminate utilities inside the expansion.
Once inside the cottage, put up a layer of pumice or expanded clay behind a wood panel wall, and put the utilities inside that wall.
Gay moron doesn't understand the work/expense involved is an order of magnitude more than fixing it.
Just build an interior wall.
t. moron
This, but if have enough roof area and reliable water for cisterns/pond or good ground water than Ignore the water utility if legal.
Agree w/ this anon, but wood panel > drywall, plus if you build a 1 story wraparound expansion or solar porch (roof/walls are greenhouse) then you will counter much of the heat loss. Then build a berm & plant trees 20+ feet away on north side to block winter winds & you're good.
Wraparound expansion or greenhouse porch, winter wind berm/trees, expanded clay or pumice insulation (better moisture control), and wooden interior walls for moisture control. Roof structure/insulation is like ~50% of heat loss too.
Tacked onto the walls. Looks like shit as well. What a shitty way to live
Realize they're better left alone as a historical curiosity than a modern dwelling.
>no you don't understand, I love living in drafty mud huts with my wiring Black person rigged to the walls
It would be easy if tedious. Just mount the shit to the walls industrial style. Hiding power and plumbing is purely a fashion-based choice.
Proper anchors are fine for industry. There's nothing uncomfortable about living in a workshop done right.
Depends on what you mean, if you're going to inhabit a derelict house you bought, you'll need to contact the water/electricity/gas company or whatever your local thing is and get them to connect the property to mains. They will rob you blind though.
As for conduits inside the house, that's easy. Just go from where the various mains pipe/wire enters the house to where you want it in the appropriate thickness
honestly dont listen to these morons
that thing is very well built and insulated basically
1 take all the floor out
to dirt
pour cement to level floor and sturdy structure with rebar foundation
2, brand new trusses and roof
your choice of material
but you can go cheap and put aluminum metal roof, who cares they look nice too
3. prob need to retruss the 2nd floor unlesss you want a giant room.
divide some wall up with drywall or some brick
4. install water heater and electrical
but its a fricking regular house rebuild
like we do in cali allday
also when you pour concrete just put a bathroom or septic pipe
the easiest way i see
is just making a maintenace house outside and running all the pipee through conduit
or choosing one room on bottom floor and run all pipe there
just put some solar panels inverter and septic and you should be fine
you dont even need water heater
just get a tankless heater
or a fricking propane shower
they exsist
its all how much money u want to waste d=
>very well built
Agreed
>and insulated
Frick no, this place would be freezing in the winter and the damp would be terrible
Agree with pouring a concrete slab but depending on the stone and mortar joints position he may also have to install some type of damp course in the walls to stop moisture wicking. Then insulate and slab out the interior running utilities behind them out of sight. It's very doable but could get pricy
insulation value = zero.
that rock will reach outdoor ambient temperature and suck the heat right out of the building... and in the summer it will transfer the heat inside. you are stupid.
to insulate something like this (if you want to preserve the stone look) you use a interior insualtion typicly wood fibre or something ecological which is breathable.
since interior insulation is verry prone to mold since the water condenses between the insualtion and the still cold stone you tipicaly use wall heating plastered in clay.
this way the insualtion is always warm and dry and since its all wood firbre and clay it can dry again and mold is impossible. and you feel comfort with lower room (air) temperatures since the walls are warm and not cold. if you put enought loops in the wall and the floors to you can run the system with really low water temperatures which means a condensing oil burner works great or even a heat pump runns efficient.
put this into ubakus.de where you can select climate and wall type and it calculates U-value (r-Value )
as you can see interiour insualtion if difficult 2 litres almost half an gallon water condensate every sqware meter of the wall, with styrofoam or a vapor barrier trapping that that would be mold heaven but the clay and wood fibre dry faster (cant be calculated by the calculator yet.)
interior wall temperature is mold medigating even without wall heating
R-Value is not great not terrible better than what code required in 95, worse than what code required in 14 for new construction.
Overkill heated tile on the walls without the tile. Is that on a heat pump so you can run AC through it during the summer lol
Why wouldn't you use a hydrostatic barrier and standard insulation options?
>hydrostatic barrier
you mean a vapor barier or moroner?
on paper it looks good and you would get much less condesation in calculations like
but its basicly impossible to make it 100% perfect on a real world construction site,
every socket every switch. all the windows have to be sealed with much care and then you still get flank diffusion with moisture getting in the exterior walls where they meet the interiour walls.
using clay is just low tech, unlikley to be fricked up, it gets wet but dries out again much better than wet glass wool behind a plastic foil never drying again.
on the heating. i think in europoor problems oil furnaces are outlawed in 2026, co2 tax will frick the existing oil users really hard in the future, so its important to build systems to be ready for heat pumps and for that you want as much surface as possible allowing it to run the most efficient with low water temperatures, basicly allowing the heat pump to run 24/7 on the same load not over or underheating, if you over power it like a oil burner it cycles and fails early.
but even with a condensing oil burner you want the water temperature to be low for more condensation.
>and in the summer it will transfer the heat inside. you are stupid.
i guarantee you it will stay at constant temperature 24/7 in summer.
whitout AC even the best insualted house will get warm, for heat protection you need mass mass and more mass buffering the heat of the day and cold of the night.
that only works were the median temperature is good, which in many places is not. An insulated house can be cooled in the coldest hours in summer, and heated in the warmest hours in winter
a mix between thermal inertia and insulation is the best
if there is plaster on the inside or you plant to plaster it you use pic rel and cut slots then chissel the rest out.
i am planing to do the same to some old property of mine
what are those interior walls made of?
the same way you go about adding it to a new house without it?