>the plan
>own huge 100+ acre land
>dig 10ft deep hole with tractor
>run pipes like pic related
>attach them to a used car radiator I have
>put a box fan next to it
Is it fool proof? I plan to maximize my off grid battery bank for harassing minorities online rather than cooling and heating
https://duckduckgo.com/?t=ffab&q=DYI+Geothermal&atb=v299-1&ia=web
What the hell is the radiator going to do? If it's underground it's going to be clogged with dirt and if it's above ground the air temperature is just going to warm the air up more than cool it down.
Use an array of thin walled aluminum pipe. Any sort of rubber or plastic is going to be working against the goal with its insulatory value
>What the hell is the radiator going to do? If it's underground it's going to be clogged with dirt and if it's above ground the air temperature is just going to warm the air up more than cool it down.
>
>Use an array of thin walled aluminum pipe. Any sort of rubber or plastic is going to be working against the goal with its insulatory value
Sounds like it will work fine. You might need a pretty beefy pump to make it through all that tube.
Idk enough about geothermal heating, but I've seen some videos on people using them quite effectively. Saw one guy in Nebraska of all places, using geothermal heating to grow oranges all year around. The guy had a greenhouse which stayed a perfect 65-70 all hear long, and this mother fricking Nebraskan was growing oranges. I shit you not.
I saw that too, very impressive
Now let's see Paul Allen's nursery
This might be enough to make me leave California. The ability to grow almost anything was what was keeping me here.
Frick off, we're full
t. the rest of the USA
Same Im going to get out of this state as soon as I can get a fully remote job.
Any designs or blue prints of that geothermal greenhouse ?
midwestern flyovers are the most powerful group of states in the union
coastal urbanite shitholes can't compete
Never heard of this but it seems interesting. Any anon out there have information on these systems in warm climates, like florida?
Except at the poles basically, the temperature so many inches down stays the same year around. It works fine anywhere
I googled it after I saw this thread and saw Florida is a great place for this. Nothing really says why but I assume it's because our ground water comes out as 72 degrees year around. Do you have any resources on building these systems? From what I've found, DIY project for this would cost around 10k with 5k of that being for the heat pump.
You don't have to have a pump, that would defeat the whole purpose. A shop fan at one end will work. The biggest strain is just getting the dead air moving to start with. Once it's moving it's continuous
No pre-contact Black society ever created a geothermal heat pump.
Sure, homosexuals developed aids first and you think that gives you the right to suggest that I have a pigment disorder?
>homosexuals developed aids first
African males practicing homosexual beastiality developed AIDS first.
can't really blame them honestly
Then who is to blame, the captured monkeys?
Blame rich European homosexuals who would fly to Africa to get fricked by black dick, a practice now wholly obsolete.
>case of mistaken identity
>thought it was his sister
Do you know the first symptom of AIDS?
A sharp pounding in your ass.
put ducting underground and run a fan on a cycle timer, it will blow the cold underground air into your home. it will suck in hot air, which it will then cool before the next cycle goes off. no idea how well it works, but im going to expirement with it eventually. Aside from the labor of digging, the ducting and a fan/timer its basically free and intuitive.
You can do this passively with a solar chimney to induce the airflow via convection
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solar_chimney
Make ducts with metal fins like a heatsink for max efficiency. I wonder if it would have much of an effect, technically more surface area should cool the air faster, practically who the frick knows.
the problem is that the soil around the pipe will adjust to the temperature of the air flowing through it. More efficient heat exhange won't probably help that much to try to get around the main bottleneck. This is why these types of tube systems wind up being so physically large and taking up as much square footage as they do.
Although it would seem like you have a nearly endless source of heat/cool, the problem is that you can only exchange but so much heat at a certain rate.
nice. Does this actually end up being more enjoyable/comfortable though?
>I'll cool the air by 40 degrees in a buried pipe.
What happens to the condensate?
Runs down the pipe into the box on the diagram, through which it will soil itself.
Check youtube, there's plenty of vids on this type of thing.
wouldnt you irreversibly contaminate your ground water if you accidently spilled galleons of wiper fluid everywhere when the system eventually fails 20+ years of whatever later?
A car radiator is not going to be big enough a surface to cool a room, let alone your house when the temperature differential from the coolant is like 10C at best, more likely maybe 5C. And there's no way it will work for heating unless you are fine with sitting in a 5C room. There's a reason people tend to attach these to a heat pump.
Obviously Id break into safeway and steal a aquairum pump moron, cool water flows through the radiator, fan spreads it, and warm water goes back to pipes
>the pipe kinks one (1) (one) time
10 ft might.not be deep enough.
You can get some 3m marking tape or ems marker balls to toss in there to make it obvious if anyone comes out to mark utilities in your area.
>10 ft might.not be deep enough
yes it is
From what I understand about foundations and water tables, you'll want to build this geothermal set up away from your house because the foundation would be problematic if you set it on top. Another problem you might run into is delivering the heat to the house, if you're looking to deliver it to the entire house you'd probably want to have it in your furnace, but most people who I've heard of with this system have laid copper tubing, or PEX into their foundation directly and the heat radiates up through the floor into the building, but this would mean you can't do wood flooring because of expansion and contraction, only tile/carpet because these materials rarely move due to those factors.
If you're in Florida, crawl spaces are cheaper, but it'll be difficult to run the pipe under the floor, so you'll most likely just take your HVAC system and run the hot water through a separate radiator like anon above said.
car radiator ain't gonna do shit...pretty sure you just need fans on either end to push/suck the air through
would probably be better to use bigger pipes underground to actually circulate air through them instead of water. then you won't need to worry about the air to water heat exchange and can just circulate the air itself. i think that will give you what you're looking for to maximize your ability to denigrate blacks and women and stuff on the internet.
Trying to cool air directly is less efficient. Water is about 830 times more dense than air, so cooling water is the way to go.
nah. for an off-grid solution air is much better. cheaper, simpler system, fewer components, and much lower energy draw. they'll even work passively via convection.
Enjoy your radon exposure even with the blower off.
it's a closed system, loser.
If it's a closed system you still need a heat exchanger you fricktard.
>If it's a closed system you still need a heat exchanger you fricktard.
You mean like a ground-coupled AKA earth to air heat exchanger like that anon posted a pic of?
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ground-coupled_heat_exchanger
It's closed in the sense that there's no physical connection between the air in the tube and the surrounding medium (soil).
That means no exchange of gasses, dillhole.
Yeah
now call him a frick face
>there's no physical connection between the air in the tube and the surrounding medium (soil).
You really believe that drain-tile is airtight and will remain leak-free for the life of the system?
pedantry, the last bastion of the dense
>ultimate radon injection system
radon injection system
>ultimate
Since I live in a state with the lowest radon exposure risk in the USA, that's like having the ultimate iceboating facility in the Sahara desert.
you never know, i lost my gun in an iceboating accident in the Sahara
how do you do heated air in the winter?
Depends on the location, climate, building design/ construction, orientation to sun and prevailing weather patterns and a bunch of other stuff. 100% passive interior climate control is an ideal that isn't as easy to attain as many proponents like to claim, even in areas well suited to best results.
That said, the kind ofxsystem shown in that diagram can still provide warmer air than ambient atmospheric air temps in winter, and heat still rises so the convection flow can still occur.
Ground is warm in winter, warmer than the surface anyways. I doubt such systems work in extreme colds, not unless you go over board with them.
>"it's a closed system!"
>posts image of an open system
Didn't even read your reply.
>Didn't even read your reply.
The part that explains it in context?
Color me surprised.
So your contention is that in a "closed" heat exchange system that handles air, the air part of the equation that is being cooled must be contained in such a way that it is never allowed to flow out of it's containment vessels and plumbing into the atmospere?
A closed system uses a coolant with a heat exchanger to prevent the coolant from contacting the working fluid.
>A closed system uses a coolant with a heat exchanger to prevent the coolant from contacting the working fluid.
In the system pictured:
Duct= heat exchanger
Coolant= subsurface soil
Working fluid= air
The duct prevents the soil and its contents from contacting the air.
works okay until you get a leak or mold growth
If it's purely for cooling this setup would be fine with a good pump. The principle is really simple, nothing is tricky. Of course make it a closed loop to prevent corrosion and bury it below the frost zone.
And any fricks who have never hear about geothermal systems should shut their mouth instead of spouting incompetent dribble.
you people are dumb as hell. google geothermal greenhouses. just because this is the first time you've heard of them doesn't mean people are just making it up. you're not super clever and poking holes in centuries old technology, you're just making yourselves look like ignoramuses.
like oh you're digging a hole three feet in the ground, enjoy dying of radiation poisoning. do you morons even listen to yourselves.
Instead of those spirals, just put multiple runs of straight back and forth. Uses about the same amount of pipe, but if one of the circuits breaks you can just stop using it. Redundancy.
The shit people are missing here is, with a proper heat pump, it will both heat and cool your house, for about 1/2 to 1/4 the energy cost. It's literally cheaper in both materials and ongoing cost.
My plan is to buy one of those towable excavators from harbor freight, modify it to get a few more feet of depth and dig hundreds of feet of trench, laying the loops vertically rather than horizontally. The only shitty thing any this is the digging. Everything else is cheaper and easier than conventional HVAC.
Towable excavator can't handle that much digging, you need a big boy excavator.
^This. Do what pros do and rent. Pros know better since digging dirt is a solved problem.
what your doing is madness. cooling will be the only tangible effect. being even 1 ft below ground will prevent much heat absorption or dissipation. the pump cost money to. doesnt really gget warmer because of the water table until you pass the water table by like 100 yards or so and its only a little until 2 miles down. then its always mugy 80 - 90 degrees
can anyone explain the difference between this and an AC/heater unit outside of the fluid used? it appears the ground literally does nothing to help and could be significantly condensed.
The ground is a thermal reservoir where you add heat during summer and get a fair bit of that back during winter. Soil, being dense, means you can dump/extract a lot of heat, whereas air has low thermal capacity.
Not sure what you mean with ground being significantly condensed.
What do you mean? You’re options are either an air to air heat pump or an air to water heat pump.
The ground you run your pipe filled with glycol is warmer in the winter than the air is and it’s cooler in the summer than the air is. It’s more efficient simply because the heat differential you’re trying to attain isn’t as large.
this shit is the new standard heating technology everyone installs in europe in new houses
I dont think it is good if you have radon in the soil.
related?
Also related:
A farmer placed water pipes in the ground of his field, and during early spring he ran seawater through the pipes, thereby defrosting his fields. Unfortunately his neighbours, also farmers, were enraged this guy could plough the fields about a month before them and thus made more money and earlier in the year, so he had to quit.
Farmer have long had a complicated relationship with the concept of innovation.
Why would he have to quit just because the neighbors were mad?
One of the oldest forms of air conditioning