2WD Chevrolet S-10 with the 4.3 vortec
what is the actual towing and hauling capacity?
after that number, for baseline, does it change after I divulge that all 4 of my shocks are COMPLETLY worn OUT?
going to replace shocks after we finish moving into the new house. but question stands. what are my towing and hauling stats?
>what is the actual towing and hauling capacity?
Open your door and read the sticker, its not very much. Its an S10, my S10 bottomed out onto the bump stops with a couch in the back.
>does it change after I divulge that all 4 of my shocks are COMPLETLY worn OUT?
No, shocks exist to keep your car from bouncing on its coils/leaf springs. They dont give you any capacity.
Protip: you can carry more if you let your load hang out the back so some of the weight is on the ground
Protip 2: put it on a trailer.
Payload is around 1000 pounds, get a trailer if you want any capacity.
Pfft, then you have to pay extra for wheels and suspension. Ground is free
Better yet, support the ass end of the load with a shopping cart. Those are also free.
Towing capacity is dictated by the sticker in the door jamb, like that other anon said. It can vary based on the GVWR of your specific package and also your drivetrain. An anemic drivetrain will have a lower tow capacity. This includes horsepower, transmission / differential ratio and GVWR. A light vehicle should not pull something that's heavier than itself. Note that some trucks can have higher "actual" towing capacity but still have a low rating. If you get pulled over, they could weigh your trailer, and if it's too heavy for your towing capacity you'll get fined. Also, suspension components are not considered in the tow capacity calculation. As long as the hitch is tied to something that won't rip itself apart, it's fine. Bottomed out suspension makes for a terrible ride though.
Now to answer, those small pickups, S-10, Ford Ranger, Mazda B-Series etc. have poor towing capacity due to their being so light. Heavier truck frames (F-150 class and above) can tow a lot more.
>A light vehicle should not pull something that's heavier than itself.
>semis shouldn't be pulling semitrailers
>semis and pickup trucks are engineered to the same standards and use the same braking systems
A tractor unit is a light vehicle?
>A tractor unit is a light vehicle?
It's lighter than a fully loaded trailer.
“Light” is a class of vehicle, not a descriptor of relative weight
Full size Silverados only weight about 2-300 lbs more than an S10
Like 3700 to 3900lbs
That's always been the problem with S10s
underpowered motors, under powered trannies, lightweight suspension, lightweight brakes. But only a few hundred pounds less which made then get only 2-3 MPG more.
Almost zero reason to ever drive an S10 over a Silverado.
S-10s are physically smaller (nicer to drive in the city) and a lot cheaper than their "full-size" counterpart.
>S-10s are physically smaller
They are only marginally smaller. In fact the extended cab S10 is longer than a shortbed silverado of the same year.
Longbed silverados are only about 35 inches longer.
They were nearly the same weight for a reason anon.
Also they were only "a lot cheaper" than full size trucks when they were brand new.
Back when S10s were plentiful on craigslist, so were lower trimmed silverados of the same vintage for pretty much the same exact price.
I grew up in a small town, was buying and playing with S10s in ~08. The heyday of cheap S10s and silverados.
If you arent slamming and bagging them, there is zero reason to own one. And if you own one to this day you are just a poorgay who is coping.
Forgetting all the legal drivel your genuine towing capacity is determined by two primary factors: that the weight will not physically destroy your pickup, and your pickup capable of both accelerating and more importantly decelerating that weight. Most of the time accelerating isn't a problem. There are plenty of gimmick videos of pickups pulling airplanes and cargo trains along a flat grade. Stopping that much momentum is an entirely different story. If you put 30,000lbs behind an S10, manage to get up to highway speeds and slam your brakes it's just going to jackknife your shit and turn you into a ball of scrap metal
If I was advising someone who would be towing along private roads and liability was less of a concern, I'd say to determine your true towing capacity, first research and understand what tongue weight is, then look up what your rear axle is rated for and don't exceed that in combined cargo + tongue weight, then generally don't exceed ~3-4x your rear axle rating in towed weight or you probably won't be able to control it.
about as much as my crown vic which has intercoolers* and probably has a thicker frame too
>180 hp (134 kW) at 4,400 rpm 245 lb⋅ft (332 N⋅m) at 2,800 rpm MPFI 9.2:1 LG3
*I guess none of these benchods ever tow or they'd have warned you about boiling your transmission
>*I guess none of these benchods ever tow or they'd have warned you about boiling your transmission
There is some individual study required to have broader knowledge. I put coolers on all my automatics as it's cheap and cheaper than parts.
As much as you can fit on it.
Overload leaves greatly reduce squatting with heavy loads in bed. We grossly abused various S-10 shop trucks and it's not a matter of numbers but springs and if you can still stop which we could but I don't advise normals to fill their bed with engines.
Stock suspension is for comfort. Overload leaves, Timbrens etc greatly reduce squat. For example my F150 on which I installed a Tommy Gate got Hellwig overload leaves, Timbrens (air bags leak, frick that) and coilover shocks (didn't do much but I had them around from a different truck). It happily carries all sorts of heavy shit now.
if only the specs for a truck were available on network that is interconnected... and "internet" if you will.
You'll break your leaf springs and end up like pic rel
see
OP should really do some reading in truck-centric venues as S-10s are popular and well-supported.
1 yard mulch or half yard dirt or 1/4 ton masonry. im putting on new struts with coilover assist springs as part of the same units, its supposed to double that but i think mounting points would become the weak link at that point
For reference I towed a 3,000lb boat+trailer 3 hours with a 2.3L Ranger, made the trip fine then blew up the torque converter a few months later. I imagine it was directly related
S10 bros unite
Frick da h8rs
Nice aftermaket V6 badge you humongous homosexual
Love the reflectors on the front fender too.
I can only imagine what other random shit you bought in the walmart automotive section you throw on there.
Maybe a big TapOut sticker on the back?
Spray painted your air vents?
I bought an 86 S10 for $500, my first truck. It starts and runs but you really have to finesse it at the lower RPMs or it will die. I’ve killed it in bumper to bumper traffic a lot. I think this is related to excessive air intake since the cap for the carb is missing but idk about cars. How’d I do and how am I doing, I’ve been loving truck life now I can actually get Craigslist free stuff I have like half a dozen fridges now
Put a 350 in it.
Friend used to take the door off the bed of his shitty S10. Got more fuel mileage and a little higher hauling capacity.
Myth in both cases. It's a placebo.
Brakes and stopping are your issue more than capacity of trailer or power.
On a dual axle landscape trailer with no trailer brakes I have towed a jeep cherokee well over an hour/50 miles with the 4.3. You still will have more power than a loaded dump truck.
This is maximum ignorant shit you pull in backwater places. It wasn't a good idea. I shouldnt have done it.