don't see a qtdndtot
I want to make a kind of scale armor. Fiberglass in epoxy resin scales riveted onto sturdy clothing. But I'm unsure if pic rel (leather rivets) will be adequate for holding the scales in place without coming off too easily. Anyone got good ideas? From looking at larp scale armor, it seems they're also sewn on? From previous work, I'd asume the scales will be about 5-6 mm thick. Would cut simple rectangular scales and drill two holes near the top part next to both edges.
you want solid rivets, hit up your local farm supply store. The scales are going to shed when shot regardless of how strong they are, that's just how this kind of armor works, but making them as tough as you can raises the likelyhood of multihit durability
solid rivets, thx
What's the cheapest way I can rust proof something as an amateur? It has no intricate details that need to be preserved nor any moving parts. It's just a bit of pig metal
i've done some research on this. rust-oleum rusty metal primer cut 50% with acetone. The acetone will thin it out and it will get very good penetration. When it dries it will dry into a hard rust proof layer. It is an old farmer trick, and can be sprayed directly onto rust.
women with kinda funky faces like this (she's obviously still pretty but in an "exotic" way like anya-taylor joy) always age like shit especially if they get fat
Oh no
I have married a girl with kinda funky face like this (she's obviously still pretty but in an "exotic" way
what do i do anon
am i fukked or no
I wanna Cummins ide her
>tfw no /k/ gf
Rub with used motor oil or dip in something
what specifically are you trying to rust proof?
Armor was historically a constant chore to maintain. iirc chainmail was kept in cloth sacks with a frick load of oil dumped in it and rolled around every day
so i have some car batteries i've been charging up, and playing around with my chink shit multimeter.
why in the frick do I read 0 amps from the charge clamps when the charger is outputting amps?
How are you trying to measure it?
There’s a good chance you blew a fuse on the meter by having it in the amp setting and touching the wrong thing. There’s also a chance you’re measuring it wrong, you measure voltage and current different ways.
Also some battery chargers like to pulse voltage, something about that being a good way to charge lead acid? My 4A Viking charger from HF jumps up to 4A, then slowly comes down near 0A, then back up to 4A on ~10sec cycles.
>How are you trying to measure it?
by setting the meter to amps and touching the probes to the charging clamps. I may have blown something. I got sparks off the meter probes and it looked like the meter was reading something before it went to 0. not sure why it would blow a fuse. the meter tells you where to plug in the probes for each setting. not sure how else to test amps. My other meter was also reading 0 amps though.
Yea you probably blew a fuse.
You don’t measure current the same way you measure voltage. You measure current inline, like hook the black charger clamp to the - on the battery, then take the red/+ clamp and stick one multimeter lead in there, and put the other multimeter lead on the + post of the battery.
If you had the meter in current mode and put each of the leads to both posts or the battery or each of the leads to the two charger clamps, either the battery charger won’t run because it sees a short circuit or you fried the fuse because a bunch of current went straight through it.
Also the meters are normally rated at 10A or less, so a 20A battery charger would probably fry the fuse even if you were measuring it correcty.
Post a pic of the meter, might be an easy fuse to change but some of the super cheap ones have little fuses soldered to the board directly and it’s trash.
Sorry for slow response, the wife wanted dick.
thanks bro
Pic related shows how you set it up with a non-clamp meter.
The meter goes inline on one side of the circuit.
…and when I actually touch the battery, this happens.
If I were to touch both leads of the meter to the battery like how I would measure voltage, it would probably fry the fuse because it’s basically shorting the lithium cell and >10A would run through the meter. And if I did the same on the + and - clamps of an old school big 50A+ battery charger, it would be about the same result.
>touching the probes to the charging clamps.
You measure current (amps) in series, not in parallel.
Because they're not in the ocean
I’ve been an apartment handyman for about a month and I’m looking to start doing handyman type work freelance on the weekends. I’ve been trying to figure out what tasks require licenses to perform, but every resource seems vague or not to the point on actual laws. Can you install sinks, garbage disposals, shower cartridges? How deep can you snake a drain, can you even turn a valve to change water pressure without a license? I live in the US.
Legally, probably not.
But tell the customers that you can get licensed and insured if they all pay 3x as much. I’m hesitant to do work for people beyond immediate family and friends because of the horror stories.
I just need to get the concrete regulations on this stuff. need to know what I can advertise. If it is just doors, drywall and installation, fine.
I mean you would be one of a million unlicensed handymen. Legally I’m positive you’re supposed to have insurance and some LLC. Realistically, I would try to keep a few grand on the side for when somebody flips out and claims your drywall fried their expensive fridge if you want to avoid civil court.
True story, when I was younger we had our kitchen and floors redone, my mom’s friend had this independent contractor boyfriend who she shilled like crazy. Dude disconnected an outlet at some point and hooked it up wrong when working in the living room and fried our $$$$ big screen TV (back before they cost $447 at Walmart). Whoever wired this stuff didn’t use common colors for the wiring and this cabinet installer guy never checked them with a multimeter before plugging in the TV. He had to foot the bill to fix it but it was like pulling teeth and the whole thing was a shit show.
You don’t need a license making under around 15k. I’ve run a moving/landscaping crew for the last 4 years unlicensed and didn’t have issues. I just want to do small easy stuff off and on between shifts, fixing doors installing sinks, garbage disposal, painting. People generally aren’t super picky when they are paying just some dude to do stuff. I’m not going to frick stuff up, I just want to operate legally.
Anything in the wall with high voltage (120v) or water pressure is a super big no-no
You can technically do whatever you want and just be up front with people
>I'll replace your shower handle but you have to pay cash and if anyone asks, I'll deny ever being here
Things you can do on the square and level:
Replace lights, fixtures and receptacles
Replace plumbing fixtures that aren't hard plumbed in
Adding ducts and returns onto existing HVAC
Installing DIY friendly HVAC systems (new mini splits that come pre charged, window units that plug in)
Replacing garage door openers
Cleaning gutters
Flooring, tile, drywall work(if you finish a room, you need permits which will require minimum a contractors license which is easy to obtain in most places)
Trim
Concrete work
Roofing (I would get liability insurance for this in case you fall)
Gutters
Landscaping (811 before you dig)
Low voltage stuff all day
Plumbing add-on stuff (bidet attachment, under sink filters, garbage disposals, dishwashers)
Uhhhhhh there's more but basically, as long as you don't frick with load-bearing wall, room finishing, high voltage electric, in wall electric, water or gas lines, you can do anything else you want with minimal licensing
I would incorporate into an LLC and get liability insurance so you don't lose everything if you frick something up and someone's house burns down
My dishwasher is filling with water, but won’t start circulating the water to the fan blades. If I select the drain function, the drain pump works. Float switch is fine, door switch is fine. I just replaced the water inlet valve and that wasn’t the problem. Is there a pump separate from the drain pump that died? Pls help I really gotta do the dishes bros thank you
Yeah your main pump is malfunctioning. Like a bad control board or bad motor probably
Wood glue or epoxy to fix a crack in a chair leg? Seems as though epoxy is stronger, but if it's a paste I don't know how I'd get it deep into the thin crack (thinner than in pic). I already have the glue so I'm hoping it's just as good.
Wood glue will only bond it properly when pressed/clamped. There’s liquid 2 component epoxy for exactly this
>liquid 2 component epoxy
Would this work? Seems thin enough, for some reason liquid stuff is 2.5x the cost of gel here. Figured I'd use a disposable syringe to inject it into the crack. Normal JB weld or similar look thicker and more like paste.
>Seems as though epoxy is stronger
PVA glue (aka wood glue) is stronger then the wood you are glue together.
Where can I find wire to make picrel. I want to braid my own, and I can't high strand count plain copper with the clear insulation
do you need it to be clear jacketed? that's the only thing holding you back from very common stuff off the shelf. For preamp audio cable you're typically looking for 24-30AWG, probably closer to 30.
They are certainly available, though you might have trouble buying just what you need, because it's really never worth it to ship 20 feet of single conductor wire.
Single-conductor cable is named "hook-up wire" in cable stocks, you can find some sort-able here for example: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/filter/single-conductor-cables-hook-up-wire/474
An example of what you might want is something like https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/cicoil/969M101-28-1/4965603
On the other hand, braiding wire is a real pain in the ass and you might be happier just buying a pre-braided four-conductor cable, even if it costs twice as much.
Thanks. It doesn't NEED to be clear; I just wanted it for the aesthetics. Might just buy the cheapest pre-braided cable after all. It's just going into some KSC75s, so it's not like i need le epic audiophile grade cables anyway
>le epic audiophile grade cables anyway
this stuff is all a joke, unless runs are hundreds of feet long and signals are completely preamplified.
One thing you might want to be careful about is the insulation material, rather than color -- something that can flex plenty and doesn't get hung up on linens or other plastics. Or you can get a fabric/braided jacket for the whole thing (pic attached), which is generally the high-end design choice because it's very durable and low-friction.
I need a DIY hobby that's affordable and doesn't require a lot of space or expensive tools to start. And preferably something I can do inside
Any recommendations?
Almost everyone has the space and tools to learn to cook, which is a timeless DIY skill. I like the Food Lab book for techniques and the How To Cook Everything book for recipes. Many people would put cooking/music/etc in a different category than "diy," but I genuinely think that's an artifact of historical gender roles (sorry /misc/).
Breadboarding electronics / digital logic design is incredibly fun, and you can work your way to sophomore-level EE with $20 in components and a wire stripper. You'll soon find yourself taking apart (and even modifying) the small DC devices in your home.
You have a computer to post here, so you can also do computer science. Entry-level CS ('programming') is among the most well-documented, open-access fields today. The vast wealth of free and open-source projects, documentation, and research should help assuage any reservations you have about its viability as an unpaid hobby.
Is this guy's tool a meme or the pocket equivalent of an excavator?
?t=299
I am tight on budget, i need to dig several cubic meters of clayish soil. Time is not an issue but I don't want to break my back more than necessary. Electricity will be available on site, I can either buy a perforator or hydraulic cylinder to diy this. An excavator would be too expensive even if I just rented it.
Colin isn't digging "clayish soil." He's digging through highly friable rock. I can't remember if it's lime stone or sand stone. His tool is just pushing the rock apart, into small enough chunks that he can haul out by hand. It would not work with nonfriable rock. It would not work with dirt or clay.
This shit is flaking all over my sweaty swollen body. Its my favourite chair for watching my animes though.. How do I make it le good chair again?
duct tape
the easier way is to buy a upholstery stapler, the arm rest can be unbolted and you should put some sponge/foam in there and some fabric.
Does anyone have any of Matthias Wandel's bandsaw plans or know where any are hosted?
do you actually not know about google.
I guess he wanted a free version! Anyone having the plans or wanting them can drop a line at [email protected] we can make it together!
Maybe try some reading comprehension
>I guess he wanted a free version!
Correct
I ordered a clicker press that is only 1.5 tonnes, and I'm wondering if there are any mods i could do to make this thing more appropriate for some larger dies?
I'm cutting leather thats max 4mm thick, and the largest die i plan on using is about 10x6 inches. I watched a video and he said the press was not appropriate for much more then cutting out little small things. i have never used a clicker or any press before, so i really have no idea how it will work with the stuff i want to press. I'm curious what people from a machining background think
$145,000 for just over 5 acres of lightly wooded property on the edge of town with supposed electricity and internet access. Accessed by privately maintained gravel road. Worth a tour for homesteading and /k/ bunker autism?
A power adapter's cable broke right on the strain relief like pic related red mark. How do I repair this? I can solder but there is no headroom and there is no screw on the adapter so I can't open it up.
pop it open and repair, hot glue to replace that strain relief boot (or buy a new one)
>there is no screw on the adapter so I can't open it up.
butterknife/spreader
everyone should have one of those meme ifixit or $10 knockoff repair kits by now, tbh
I'm making a table saw top out of melamine board. It's gonna be kept outside under a tarp, so I want to seal the edges so moisture doesn't get into it and warp. what do I use? will regular polyurethane in a jar work, if I brush it onto the cut edges and let it dry?
I would brush in some fiberglass resin.
Whatever you use, you need to thin out the first coat and really soak the edges so it'll sink all the way in
Then the second coat can be thicker
Sand the over dab smooth
Just buy a chair cover
Also stop reddit posting like "le troons"
So I've got some pretty large bearings that I'm going to use as a wheel on a track. They'll likely be carrying a max load of like ~300lbs. The issue I'm having is the size of the bore on the inner race is like 1". The axle I plan to fit these on is like 1/2". If I were to use nylon spacers to go from a 1/2" axle to fill in the remaining space inside the bearing, would I run into any issues do you think? Like do you think the nylon will deform and cause me problems?
PrepHole here.
There are things about scale armor that you probably want to know regardless of what you're making it out of.
The easiest kind is gambeson that has plates added simply to protect the gambeson itself from damage, copper is easy to hammer thin and doesn't form sharp edges.
Then there's scale, which is many small plates joined usually like chain mail. This was done by people who's metallurgy wasnt good enough to hammer solid plates and was both easier and cheaper than chain mail. Think of it as chain mail without the flexibility.
Then there was aloricus segmentus, which was basically an early form of plate armor, made by people who could hammer plates but didn't know how to join them properly and resorted to tying them together in an overlapping fashion.
These didn't actually have the same coverage value as scale, but were favoured because large plates provided much better protection against heavy blows and this armor wasnt like wearing a massive iron blanket.
Then there's plate, where all the fastening points were internal, that's really what seperate plate armor, not the size of the plates but how all the strapping was internal.
For your purposes you have some good options.
A. Get/ make a gambeson or buy a sturdy padded jacket, solid rivet decorative plates directly onto it. Looks almost exactly like plate but will be cumbersome to move in because it's not correctly jointed or strapped onto you. This being said it will be very easy to take on and off and large plates would still be easy to attatch
B. Make aloricus segmentus out of fibreglass. Relatively easy to move in, a pain to take on and off. I'd probably lay eyelets in the fiberglass rather than drill it. As most plates will be the same size this works well for making molds.
C. Make full sized plates and strap them properly. Tedious to take on and off but it's full plate.
How narrow can I make the base before I'll have troubles with it flipping over? Keep in mind the force isn't just straight down on some exercises.
>force isn't just straight down on some exercises.
you'll need to know/guess the actual angle, compare it to the angle to the outermost point of the base on the floor, make the latter larger (so it cannot put torque in the tipping direction on that point)
That makes so much sense, thanks.
How do I fix this? Im a legit tard and tried to google lens the thing but I can't find the instructions online.
What's the issue?
If you can't connect it, there's a notch in the side part of the hinge and 2 hooks on the door part of the hinge. Just hook them up and then press on the edge of the door part of the hinge where the spring is.
Wow thanks a lot for the help. Instantly fixed it hah
Call your bf
will polarized sunglasses protect you from arc flash from a distance of say 10 ft and beyond? I took a job at a place where there's a lot of outdoor welding and not a lot of welding curtains because of that so I'm just curious if polarized glasses will do the trick for incidental flashes or if I'm going to have to literally walk around wearing a shade 12.
I tried googling it but it was all absolute fricking moron questions like can I weld with sunglasses and, my favorite, can I weld with CLEAR safety glasses. cuz you know, it's got safety in the name and everything duh!
It'll stop UV so it's probably fine as long as you can look away and not stare at it.
If you have to walk up and talk to these guys, I dunno probably need their ppe. Better yet only talk to them during morning coffee and let them frick off the rest of the day
how do i unclog a shower drain? i tried baking soda and white vinegar but nothing happened, and i tried to use a straightened cloth hanger to remove hair, but there is a limit and doesnt go very deep, i removed a few but still the same, then i tried violently throwing water through the drain but that made it worse and now it takes a hours to drain the water instead of the 10 minutes it took before, what are my options now?
there's this stuff called "drain cleaner", anon...
if that doesn't work you want a plumbing snake, which means 100% call a plumber and not try yourself.
im checking those out, but why wouldnt it work? do i need to buy one that specifically says hair cleaner or any is good?
>but why wouldnt it work?
would work, if it's long enough and actually decent. a plumber will have one (or many) which are ten times better, he will happily use for you for less $ than buying the crappy one. Actually using them is kind of a pain in the ass. Like soldering/etc, best left to someone who does it a lot, they'll do a much better job much quicker than you.
i bought the drain cleaner and it worked wonderfully! only had to use half a bottle and in only one try is draining perfectly. thank you so much anon <3! this shit was stressing me a lot lol
I want to do soldering for 'welding' brass sheets together
I want to be able to file and sand the resulting joints
Do I just need a soldering iron? Does the quality matter for what I'm doing?
you want to use a torch or gun for something that big, not an iron, those are almost all for electronics.
doesn't need to get hot enough to weld, though, obviously
Sorry by sheets I mean 4 cm wide maximum
would still use a small torch myself. picrel
What you are looking to do is called "brazing." Use a torch and solder as the other anon has pointed out.
These little shale tiles or whatever are breaking in my shower. I don’t have time or energy to tear everything out.
What is a quick fix here? Find a similar tile , epoxy in place, then grout around it?
Also frick these tiles they are basically disintegrating. Why would someone install these?
>Also frick these tiles they are basically disintegrating. Why would someone install these?
My headcanon is that tileguy refinished the space and put the naughty tiles there.
it looks like either Home Depot installed this + shower, or the home owner did themselves. I was told by an outside company whoever installed it didn't include a liner.
Well I got my grout on. I also tried filling some holes in the tiles with grout just to see if it will hold.
The floor is not flat. It’s very lumpy or “hilly”. With a floor like this, how do you get the water to run to the center to th drain? I’m wondering these bumps and hill are from him trying to slope downloads to the center.
But a perfectly flat surface would be bad right?
This tree is growing way too large but I don't want to kill it, how do I prune it back without causing too much damage?
Nice quads. Check in a gardening forum how hard you prune depends on time of year and type of plant.
I'm going to shim my Mosin. Any advice on an adhesive that'd keep the shims snugly attached during shooting but wouldn't be destructive to remove if I had to?
friction
Why shouldn't I PrepHole an RV or trailer into a nice livable home space, buy a plot of land to park on with utilities to hook into, and do all the PrepHole and bushcraft tasks I could ever desire?
The idea is to reduce taxes and property costs as much as possible while still retaining the ability to pick up and move easily if needed.
Anyone have any luck removing scratches in clear plastic like this? I know they sell that Novus plastic polish but ive never been able to buff out anything more than a pin scratch
I think you want a filler rather than grinding the whole thing down. Something you can spread across, really get in there, and then wipe all the excess
You can try buffing it. Maybe one of those headlight resto kits, I used a 3M one a month or two back and those plastic lenses ended up nice and clear.
Find another record player cover. Add similar scratches. Try different methods.
I want to buy a children's baseball bat and fill it with sand to work out with. Like a macebell I guess. It looks like the handles have some goop in them, so how would I manage to pour sand in? Just cut a small hole and tape it up when it's full? Maybe use one of those aluminum welding rods for a stronger hold?
you can use a hollow plastic one, that'll be easier to work with. I'd use epoxy or a patch instead of tape. Otherwise all good.
>hollow plastic one
Not that anon, but wouldn't those possibly crack? Perhaps plastic bats have come a long way since I was a kid...
if you're worried bout that use PVC pipe and two caps. I don't think sand would break a regular bat though. They're meant to be smashed around and not make sharp edges
I ended up filling it with pennies, then I used some cheap hair gel to fill the empty space. It's really thick so it stops any shifting of the coins. Then I capped it off. With some JB weld I had laying around. Ended up being ~6lbs. Very happy with how it turned out.
My bathroom tap spurts out weird black shit when I turn it on cold. It's been doing this for maybe a year, especially in hot weather, and I've decided to finally get it fixed if I can.
The black shit that comes out appears like black sand that sticks to the sink and anything in it, but washes off with hand soap and scrubbing.
No other water outlets in the house exhibit this behaviour, including the shower and toilet in the same bathroom. Not even in minute amounts - there is no sediment buildup anywhere, even the inside of my electric kettle. Hot or even warm water appears to be fine - it's a single mixer tap - only cold water produces the sediment.
I live in an apartment above a commercial property so I can't repair it myself, but does anyone have any ideas what this might be? Something plastic breaking down?
For further context, we've just been avoiding using the tap on cold for a year, but I forgot and it happened again recently.
O ring
How difficult would it be to renovate a shitty old RV or van to serve as a home?
It's something that women and children have accomplished. So I'm guessing it's out of your reach.
Is there anywhere that sells custom/unusual combinations of double sided bits? Looking for 5mm hex on one side and T10 on the other.
I need an alternative absorbent to calcium carbonate to clean an oil soaked table I'm working on, what's the best substitute? I've got cat litter and baking soda on hand, I could get diatomaceous earth pretty easily too.
Yes.
There’s commercial oil soaker type things too if you want.
Depending on what you want to do, best results I had on driveway stains was this yellow bottle from one of those Goo-Away brands of concrete cleaner, you shake it and it becomes a thick white sludge, pour it on and let it dry and absorb for a couple days. Not sure how that would work on a table.
I have this multimeter I bought a couple years ago, it used to work fine but now it POWERS ON for a fraction of a second but DOESN'T STAY ON. If I put it in diode mode and test I can hear it beep shortly so it seems to be working fine but something prevents it from staying on. Has anyone ever run into something like this?
The battery inside is fine, already tested.
Power switch broke
How many kgs can these sorts of buckles take? The webbing that they're meant to be used with can take 500kg without snapping but that doesn't matter if the buckles will open or break at 10kg.
https://usegrunt.com/product/grunt-single-adjustable-slide-release-buckle-25mm-black-pack-of-2/
I also couldn't find it readily online but you could probably email the customer support here and they'd answer you. Comparable ones are usually rated for around 10-25kg depending on make and size.
Run 4" construction screws from the hinges into the frame, make sure you're hitting a stud and this should pull it up. If that doesn't work try hitting the wall with a sledgehammer and block. If that doesn't work you're fricked.
I've never seen anything like that before. I;m curious about what you could possibly want something like that for though, that sounds like a nightmare to me
There are so many variables here. Are you renovating a driving RV or a towing on? How shitty is it? A project like that could be anywhere from running a few plumbing lines to a full frame teardown and rebuild.
Could you just drill a hole in the end and fill it with sand? I'd consider using a rubber plug that you could take in and out though
I'm reposting my question from here
Does anyone have any experience with repairing Milwaukee Sawzalls? I found this one in the trash but the motor's bound up.
Video example: https://youtube.com/shorts/cQbipGYB9so?feature=share
>CAT.NO 2621-20
If these things aren't repairable, is there anything I can do with the components? I'm a woodworker not an electrician so I have no idea where to start diagnosing this thing.
>Comparable ones are usually rated for around 10-25kg depending on make and size.
Ah, I see. I'll have to look into a different product.
Thanks.
Not an expert in this, but to me it seems like the issue isn't the motor but the reciprocating system that is jammed. I would dig a bit further into the saw and see if there's any stripped gears inside. IME electric motors are not easily repairable so hopefully you find something else wrong with it.
I updated my other thread. You were right, the reciprocating system was jammed up with some bad grease. I disassembled it and regreased it and now it's spinning great. Only problem is now I have an electrical fault I need to sort out.
This is /diy so when she gets ugly you can repair her face with epoxy
This could work. I'm sure some engineer could calculate how much you'd need to get x amount of pressure but yes, a larger inlet would give greater pressure on the same size pipe. 300' is a lot of distance to overcome though so you'd need a very large inlet and a very skinny pipe to see any noticable increase
>I've never seen anything like that before. I;m curious about what you could possibly want something like that for though, that sounds like a nightmare to me
EDC, for a multitool bitholder. Two most commonly used bits for me besides the versatilely sized flathead/Phillips bit it came with.
I had to just wedge this back door shut. As you can see, the frame by the door handle has no gap which is where the issue lies. How do I go about fixing this? The door hinges are built into the frame. The only thing I can think of is taking the whole goddamn thing off and putting it back on which I definitely don't wanna do.
I think you're fricked. Looks like the frame has settled a little and the sides have squeezed in. Maybe put a jack in there and try to straighten it lmao
Is it a wooden door? If so wood expands during the cold (more moisture) and contracts with heat (less moisture) so that might be what happened. Might be able to sand it down a bit, if it's indeed wood.
Is sulfuric acid or lye based drain cleaner better for grease buildup? My moron roommate won't stop dumping cooking oil and food garbage down the drain short of me beating the shit out of her whenever she's in the kitchen and making her develop mageirocophobia, and the sink drain has slowed down noticeably, so I want to deal with this before it totally blocks.
lye
Make her sit with you and help you clean out the p-trap. Having people help fix the things they break gives them multiple incentives to change their behavior.
You don’t even need to blame her. Once it’s clogged up and a problem
“To clear the drain out, we need to clean out this p-trap. I will need your help doing it. When is a good time. It will take about 40 minutes.
Once trap is off hand it to her and ask her to run the hose through it outside and throw out the crap that comes out. Say you will stay under the sink and keep clearing out the pipes by hand.
At one point thank her “thanks. I hate doing this. The less food and oil we put in here, the less we have to clean it oil. Oil is tough because it cools right in the trap and blocks everything.”
Thanks again for helping. See if she wants to grab drinks later.
Imagine there is 300ft of pipe that takes water from a river through gravity. If I were to increase the diameter of the inlet would it increase the flow? I wouldn’t be increasing the diameter of the pipe anywhere else
Possibly.
I imagine if you could somehow point the inlet into the current, a larger inlet would get you a bit of pressure.
I want to embed some electronics in a wooden table and I'd like to route the power cable through one of the legs to make it as invisible as possible. I'll use this panel mount socket to keep everything internal. My question is if I need conduit through the channel in the leg or not?
>My question is if I need conduit through the channel in the leg or not?
Maybe. If you are using plenum grade wires you don't. If you are using a sliced up extension (or equiv) you do.
>If you are using a sliced up extension (or equiv) you do.
cheers
Anyone ever install shades/blinds in an aluminum sunroom? Trying to find out what the best way to do it would be. Not sure if I can screw into the aluminum walls
Why not self tapping sheet metal screws?
Do venetian blinds closed "inward" (convex facing inside house) produce make the silhouette visible from outside? (At night, ie indoor lights on, dark outside)
I'm having a hard time finding a straight forward answer of this online.
I get that inward is "less private" in that someone could peer in but given that I have some over head lights near the blinds, if it was closed outward wouldn't the light filter down the blind to the concave side and hence any silhouette cast onto the blinds?
Live on ground floor unit and there's a garden outside my blinds so I'm not worried about peekers, they would disturb the bushes alot. More worried about casting my silhouette outside.
They slope outwards but better quality ones do both.
Also, you are over thinking this.
>over thinking
This. If you don't want shadows projected outside, then get black out curtains.
Can anyone help me?
For my mechatronics engineering school I need to CAD draw 250 simple drawings for a moronic teacher, this is moronic because for other classes we had to do way more advanced CAD drawing and even do calculations and simulations to engineer a better part.
So I want to automate it to save me hundreds of hours that I can invest that time in real learning.
>draw 250 simple drawings for a moronic teacher
what the actual frick
submit 250 of the ~same part, with one hole/feature moved by a one mil each time
If only it was that easy, he want's us to make a screenshot from another angle and print it out hand it in.
Here's another part, I really hope someone can help me doing this manually is hell.
if anything can do it readily, it's OpenSCAD, which is already using automated commands/markup instead of pointing and clicking.
Thanks for the recommendation, can you give more info on the way to do it?
I see OpenSCAD has to option to upload images but then you can only extrude it into the Z axis.
It would be possible to make a simple script that does this for all 6 sides and then take out the everything that doesn't overlap and you're done.
But the problem is I am only given a few sides so that isn't possible.
Maybe with a AI plugin? but maybe I'm thinking to hard about it (in the way there might be a simple solution)
Once your 3d part is made (from random numbers or whatever) you can create the profiles for your 3-view drawing using Projection. https://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/OpenSCAD_User_Manual/3D_to_2D_Projection
It will spit out a DXF.
That's from a 3D file to 2D, I need exactly the other way around.
Ohhh I see, sorry.
Yeah, that'd be super hard. You'd need some sort of computer vision at the bare minimum, plus an algorithm that works out what order to extrude/revolve/cut.
Im pretty sure it won't be a problem, but having the duct piping this close to the natural gas line isn't going to FUBAR my shit, right?
Forgot pic because I'm tired and moronic