Looking at getting a savage A 17 as a farm rifle. I expect it will be better than the old norinco .22lr I've been using for coyotes while still being cheap enough for squirrel.
My only question is, will it be too loud to shoot without earpro?
I know you're supposed to use it for .22 lr but It never makes my ears ring, because I use a long barrel
But how
I'll jump in and say you could just get a little pair of reusable plugs with a case and tie the case to your sling swivel. Now you have earpro with the gun at all times and don't need to worry about forgetting them.
Word from the tinitus-wise: just keep your .22 and buy a nice pair if custom-fitted ear pro that you can keep on a lanyard or pouch attached to your rifle. The reason your current .22 doesn't make your ears ring is because you've already irreparably dammaged your hearing
Why replace the .22 with a .17? If you're not losing coyotes (I assume) then why not get a nicer .22, or if you're dead set on moar powar, a .22 mag? Also if you're a Euro of specific kind or American, get a gun that's threaded and chuck a silencer on it. Yes it adds length. But trust me, it protects your hearing. I can shoot 1200fps .22lr without earpro. Probably shouldn't, but can and do. I have delicate-ass ears and get no ringing. I don't know whether .22 mag or .17 really silence well though. >will it be too loud to shoot without earpro? >I know you're supposed to use it for .22 lr but It never makes my ears ring, because I use a long barrel
You have hearing damage probably lol. How long is this barrel? Because shooting at a pistol range with big ass berms to reflect noise right back at me with a 26" barrel and 710fps CCI quiet shorts still made my ears ring a little on the first shot (some weird first round pop on unsilenced bolt action). Also IIRC I shot some ~1000fps .22 recently out of an ~18.5" 10/22 and it oddly barely bothered my ears. Maybe my ears are damaged too, heh.
Alternatively, get some active ear protection like Howard Leight Impact Sports and keep them handy, like folded up on the barrel or over the scope or on the sling. They absolutely frick your directional hearing though and I go from "picking squirrels out of specific trees" to "I think I hear a squirrel somewhere over that way..."
I know there smaller framed bolt action rifle and shotgun models for women and teenagers.
Is there a same thing for AR-15? Like, a more thin frame and metal shaved off everywhere it can be shaved off, to remove as much weight as possible, the latter being similar to Desert Eagle L5? Would make a good survival solution.
Most of those guns simply have a shorter length of pull on the stock and maybe a slightly shorter barrel, but the receiver and the rest of the gun are the same as the standard adult-size gun. Since most ARs have adjustable stocks you could achieve the same thing by not extending the stock all the way.
>Like a more thin frame and metal shaved off everywhere it can be shaved off, to remove as much weight as possible
You just described the WWSD rifle. There's also tons of lightweight parts for ARs on the market. Carbon fiber stocks and foreends, skeletonized receivers, etc.
>Would make a good survival solution
If you can't carry an AR either you're not surviving or you shouldn't be carrying a rifle around in the first place. My mother in law with her fricked up neck shoots one just fine once you get enough risers on there, it's carrying 10 loaded mags that would do a number on her.
Children and the elderly get a 10/22 anon.
There WAS going to be an AR in .22LR scaled down but incessant political REEEEE-ing about muh branding made them reconsider. Shame too because I'd have bought one for fun at ~$500 despite wanting a dedicated .22lr upper even if the marketing was a little cringey. But also
>Would make a good survival solution
If you can't carry an AR either you're not surviving or you shouldn't be carrying a rifle around in the first place. My mother in law with her fricked up neck shoots one just fine once you get enough risers on there, it's carrying 10 loaded mags that would do a number on her.
Children and the elderly get a 10/22 anon.
A long gun is preferable for HD because they are much more effective at stopping a threat and they are much more controllable since they have a stock so you get 3 points of contact with your body when you aim. The reason why handguns exist is because of portability or concealability, neither of which matter for HD. If you have to use a handgun for some reason then follow the same logic: since size and concealment aren't important don't get some tiny CCW piece that's hard to shoot well. Get a full-size duty pistol in any of the mainstream calibers, something like a cop or a solider would carry. No tiny pocket pistols, no silly meme handcannons.
Whichever size handgun you shoot most comfortably& accurately. Handguns are ideal for home defense because it frees up the other hand to call 911, open doors, flip on lights, and use as a buffer against an attacker
A long gun is preferable for HD because they are much more effective at stopping a threat and they are much more controllable since they have a stock so you get 3 points of contact with your body when you aim. The reason why handguns exist is because of portability or concealability, neither of which matter for HD. If you have to use a handgun for some reason then follow the same logic: since size and concealment aren't important don't get some tiny CCW piece that's hard to shoot well. Get a full-size duty pistol in any of the mainstream calibers, something like a cop or a solider would carry. No tiny pocket pistols, no silly meme handcannons.
>what handgun is best >actually it's a rifle
Tiresome and wrong
>home defense
Preferably a shotgun. Though a handgun is obviously better than nothing. For me I have my 590 under the bed and a handgun in my nightstand drawer. The handgun is a bit easier and faster to retrieve, but if the bad guys are still working their way through my front door I’ll have amble time to get out of bed and reach for the big boy. The handgun is really just there as a “oh shit they are coming down the hallway and I have 3 seconds to prepare myself” gun.
cant find info while googling, spews unrelated garbage, would appreciate any radiobros to clear things up
is there some max range at which EM can be tracked and traced to a location by radars or passive listening systems or whatever? i do know signal distance does depend on frequency to some degree, does that also apply to detection?
basically, if i fire up a walkie-talkie, will i get picked up by awacs 1k miles away? same question for a drone, a jammer and a radar
>i do know signal distance does depend on frequency to some degree, does that also apply to detection?
Yes. But most importantly it depends on the device you're firing up. Merely turning on a walkie-talkie doesn't transmit anything so the only way to detect that would be with really advanced equipment and since the "signal" is really just the internal workings of the walkie-talkie and is therefore super weak the range at which they'd be able to detect anything would be super fricking short. Listening on a radio is safe. But the moment you press the transmit button and start talking you will be instantly detectable to anyone looking. It's like walking around in a field at night. So long as you keep your flashlight off you are very hard to see. The moment you turn the light on you're a fricking beacon. Anything that transmits will make it very easy to see you--a radio you're talking on, the drone & its controller, etc. A jammer is like waving around a giant flashing sign screaming look at meeeeeee through a megaphone.
>is there some max range
no it all depends on the sensitivity of the device the people listening are using. There's no point where the signal just goes to zero.
If you're talking about the govt (AWACS etc) lord knows how far away they can pick stuff up from.
t. former radar tech and currently wireless (wifi) engineer
They seem cool no doubt but are a bad idea. If you feel like you’re in danger to the point you need a gun THAT available, especially in car that can take you to safety, then you need to reevaluate your living conditions. Stashing it in your glove box or center console should be more than fine.
I drive a nice car and where I live a lot of carjackings and organized theft. I already had a dude try to in my truck but I (narrowly) got out of there. My perspective is having a car holster to switch from my IWB/AIWB is wayyyyyyy more convenient than a carjacking holster (and the 0 concealment it offers out of the car)
[...]
>Keep in console
Yeah no, I have tools and paperwork usually in there. Hence the idea of a holster mounted somewhere on the vehicle.
For the record, I am not a truck gun homosexual. I only considered this setup as it seems intuitive and I'd rather not roll the dice twice.
They seem cool no doubt but are a bad idea. If you feel like you’re in danger to the point you need a gun THAT available, especially in car that can take you to safety, then you need to reevaluate your living conditions. Stashing it in your glove box or center console should be more than fine.
You're either fat, moronic, or both. Keep it on your person. It literally can't be any more accessible than that. You tuck the seat belt behind the holster. Or again, are you too fat for that?
I really want to buy a CMMG Dissent but I'm worried that braces will become illegal again soon, and I live in a state where I can't SBR it unless the OAL is 29" or something like that which would completely defeat the purpose. Should I roll the dice and buy one now, or wait for the SCOTUS ruling?
I have a TX22 comp and it's unironically awesome, it's more than the normal TX22, but since you don't have much of an excuse not to get a suppressor anymore it's definitely worth the upgrade.
Practice? What hellhole are you living in. In my state we just sit in a classroom for a few hours. The range part was optional. And it was just firing a few shots point blank to demonstrate proper form.
Anyone know (or have examples of) any gun grips or stocks that let a user hold it both as a traditional hunting rifle (), as well as with a more 'pistol' grip (
https://i.imgur.com/oSK1Jlw.jpg
can anybody identify what kind of material is wrapped around this guys stock?
How the frick would it let you hold it both ways? I'm majorly confused here anon. Like a hybrid? Because that would probably most closely be a "semi-pistol grip stock" which is a (somewhat) traditional hunting gun stock. >lust provoking >not even furry
If you want it to look somewhat traditional but have the one piece stock look, there's a middle ground. I don't know what to call this but look at any major maker for replacement stocks (so Magpul, Woox, Boyd's, etc) and they'll no doubt have some to look through. Absolutely doubt there's much in the way of wood versions of these though; many designs look like they'd snap because lolwoodgrain. Maybe I'm wrong (I hope I am).
If you want traditional(ish) look in wood but with a pistol grip, maybe try the A-TM (or B-TM) stock if you want a Mini-14 or a 10/22. Anyways, checked.
>What are these 'hairs' on the tail of a B-52?
Pubic hairs or pubes start to grow in when the bomber reaches puberty. You'll see them around the tail, over the wings, and along the landing gear. It's perfectly natural and part of becoming a man.
Not a question, but every MRE should have hot sauce and coffee, and it’s bullshit that they don’t. I get mad about it every time I open up an MRE and it’s missing one or both of those
Does anyone know of any charities that directly send money to Hamas to buy weapons? I have money and want to see those israelites get fricked now more than ever after the recent bombing of that aid convoy
Should I get my M1917 professionally reblued? It has pretty bad holster wear, the previous owner lover to shoot it out in the desert for like a decade. I'm honestly worried about killing the proof marks but I've heard conflicting anecdotes about that. I really want that blue back on her.
Get it professionally conserved, not refinished. A rust blued finish can be touched up by boiling and carding without damaging the intact bluing, however most gunsmiths are hacks that will polish and hot blue shit which destroys original finish. Watch mark Novak's Anvil series or the yt channel Backyard Ballistics for a better explanation.
https://i.imgur.com/oA6pdL3.jpg
I was thinking about getting an Obrez Mosin. What are the rules for owning one in the United States? I saw a guns.com article on it saying that if it's more than 26 inches long (total length) it should be okay, but it was posted 11 years ago and I don't know if any laws have affected ownership of one since then. A listing on GunBroker says it's subject to NFA.
Obrezes are legally considered SBRs / "weapon made from a rifle" per the 1934 NFA as they once were rifles, unless they're purposefully assembled on a demilled and rewelded reciever which is extremely rare. Don't listen to
If it's made from a rifle, then it's an SBR, stock or not. If it's made from a virgin receiver (transferred as: "other"), then you can make it a pistol. There really IS no such thing as a virgin Mosin receiver, though, and your only bet is to find a Mosin that's fricked and cheap (lol2024Mosinprices) and cut (to spec) and reweld it, at least legally. Or pay a tax stamp to make it an SBR and have to get it engraved, which would be moronic too. >Question 24. Category of Firearm(s): “Other” refers to frames, receivers, and other firearms that are neither handguns nor long guns (rifles or shotguns), such as firearms having a pistol grip that expel a shotgun shell, or National Firearms Act (NFA) firearms, including silencers. If a frame or receiver can only be made into a long gun (rifle or shotgun), it is still a frame or receiver, not a handgun or long gun. All frames and receivers are “firearms” by definition, and subject to the same GCA limitations. See 18 U.S.C § 921(a)(3)(B). 18 U.S.C. § 922(b)(1) makes it unlawful for a licensee to sell any firearm other than a shotgun or rifle to any person under the age of 21. Since a frame or receiver for a firearm, to include one that can only be made into a long gun, is a “firearm other than a shotgun or rifle,” it cannot be transferred to anyone under the age of 21, nor can these firearms be transferred to anyone who is not a resident of the State where the transfer is to take place. Also, note that multiple sales forms are not required for frames or receivers of any firearms, or pistol grip shotguns, since they are not “pistols or revolvers” under 18 U.S.C.§ 923(g)(3)(A).
>Pls spoonfeed me on what it means to cut to spec
The ATF has rules on how a receiver has to be cut up to be considered legally destroyed. They specify the number and width of cuts required. He's basically saying that you could:
a) buy a mosin
b) cut up the receiver per ATF rules; now it's legally just a lump of metal.
c) repair the receiver you just cut up and use that to build your Obrez.
That is a way around the legal problem of "if it's made from a rifle then it's an SBR". The problem is that repairing the receiver after it's been legally destroyed is technically difficult.
There's basically three options:
1) Buy a mosin and SBR it
2) Do what we just talked about, legally destroying the receiver and then repairing it. This has no NFA paperwork but is a technical challenge.
3) Build it with some other action that's not a mosin where you can buy a brand new virgin receiver.
sucks that you need a stamp. good news though. if you make two and chain them together like nunchucks, it does not change anything legally. I specifically asked the ATF about this a few years ago and they emailed me back saying basically yeah nah bruh it's cool, we don't care if you make obrez nunchucks.
https://arcanecode.com/2019/04/11/programming-your-baofeng-radio-with-chirp-and-solving-the-prolific-driver-issue/
If it's a FTDI chip then use the drivers here https://ftdichip.com/drivers/vcp-drivers/
What's the deal with combustion light-gas guns? I read they might be useful for increasing velocity of artillery, but how does hydrogen beat gunpowder? I'd think that a solid fuel would always have a greater expansion ratio after combustion than a gas, especially such a low-density gas as hydrogen. Is it more about the speed that hydrogen/oxygen mix detonates at, compared to the slower rate of triple base powder?
Can anybody point me to more info on possible military applications of combustion light gas guns? Would like to better understand their pros and cons compared to conventional weaponry.
everything about the propellant was more difficult than nitrocellulose. Needed a larger propellant chamber, more complicated propellant handling equipment, the gun was more complicated and expensive and prone to breakage.
Does EuroOptic ever have site-wide sales like on July 4th or Christmas time? I'm trying to snag some stuff that's not ever on sale like a rangefinder and rifle chassis and they always seem to be at MSRP
I was dicking around with my shotgun and had a thought. Could you* in theory make a lever-action attachment for a semi auto shotgun which would allow you to quickly cycle it as a lever-action if it has a misfeed or if you're using ammo that won't cycle in it? It would still work as normal, including just using the charging handle as normal, but if you need to cycle/open it you can >Open lever, which pulls bolt back and locks it >Close bolt, which has a lip to catch the bolt release
I imagine some kind of switch to disable the bolt release tab would be useful too.
*By "Could you" I mean "By paying an actual gunsmith", not bubbaing on a shitty scrap metal lever you made of trash
Ausgay here
Lever shotguns are big down here and 95% are turkish, the other 5% are chinese IAC 1887's
What you want to look out for is the same with all turkshit shotguns, dogshit metals used in construction, peening/ galling after 1-200 rounds (yes, really), pins going to shit, lever turning slopping because of previous 2 faults - overall, Adler etc lever shotguns are built upon Remington 870 cloned receivers and modified accordingly, the roaches ALWAYS use shit metallurgy. There's a reason why Adlers etc down here are roughly 400USD new, you get what you pay for.
The 1887 is much better, even if it's made by chinks - much easier to slick up too with a dremel and paste if it's stiff.
Also, look up on israelitetube what happens when you run high wall brass and 3in shells in turkshit shotguns, smashes them to pieces real quick.
Hope this helps Anon.
I have seen decent turkshit. Problem is nobody wants to import them, they want to screw the price down so hard it's impossible to do it right, and on the other end of things people have learned that a roachgat is worth $200 and assume (correctly) they're just getting fricked if it's any more.
Ehhhhh to each their own dude but the only SOMEWHAT decent turkshit I've seen are SxS shotguns since in America - Stoeger is made in Turkey while down here in Aus Stoeger makes their shit in Brazil in alongside Boito.
I've shot the Stoeger 9mm (made om Turkey) and holy frick it was dooooogshit. Don't even get me started on Tisas... Doesn't even bear mentioning.
tbh I hate the way the turks have flooded our market with that much WANK over the years.
It's not the turks, it's the import israelites doing it. See also piles of chinese crap in walmart etc. The chinks are also perfectly capable of making decent stuff when people are willing to pay for it, and the importers are calling the shots there.
1 month ago
Anonymous
If the turks make shit, they make shit (and they do).
It has nothing to do with the importers whatsoever - they just make inferior shit that breaks really fast. Simple as.
1 month ago
Anonymous
Tell me you've never worked in manufacturing without saying you've never worked in manufacturing.
1 month ago
Anonymous
I've never worked in manufacturing
Frick you don't tell me what to do kek
It would be a bad idea due to the possibility of forced feedback. If the weapon malfunctions in a way that the automatic cycling cycles the lever while your hand is in the loop it would injure your hand.
Would it be possible though? Sure! Would make a neat selling feature too.
Pitch it to a Turk company and they'll probably do it.
https://i.imgur.com/qDTIXsE.jpg
Should I get my M1917 professionally reblued? It has pretty bad holster wear, the previous owner lover to shoot it out in the desert for like a decade. I'm honestly worried about killing the proof marks but I've heard conflicting anecdotes about that. I really want that blue back on her.
Unless it's badly rusting I'd leave it alone. If it needs to be refinished to not rust, I have had good results with Mahovsky Metalife. They are very affordable and did a good job hard chroming an old Colt for me that had been damaged in a flood.
>cycles the lever while your hand is in the loop it would injure your hand.
just don't make it a loop then, just push it forward and let the action push it back
If it's set up like your pic then either it's not possible for the CH to operate the lever or it'd be so floppy as to be unusable.
In any case even if for some reason you're clinically moronic enough to make it possible it's not going to significantly hurt your hand, we're in "putting your thumb on the back of a slide will break it" territory here. You've had worse barking your knuckles on a doorframe.
Extra magazines, holster or sling, earpro, eyepro, lock box if handgun.
Hopefully not a Hi-Point 380 because there are way better guns available if you spend only slightly more.
will the gforce huckleberry get under $400? There's no way I'm paying $550 for a fricking turkroach lever-gun
Probably once they have been out for a little bit.
I have seen the .410 version though and it was absolutely terrible. Not sure if the .357/.44 versions are any better, but if it's anything like what I saw I wouldn't want it no matter how cheap it is.
How would one go about installing bayonet lugs on an AK? Explain to me as if I were a moron (I am)
Depends on the AK you have. Typically the lug is on the gas block and the ring of the bayonet locks around the muzzle nut or slant cut comp.
On an AK-74 pattern the lug is on the front sight and the ring locks around the front of the muzzle brake.
I'm using ammo seek and found a semi decent pick for my PDP, it's call Freedom Munitions. Can anybody attest to it? Also, is the difference between HP and JHP that great? What do you guys typically prefer?
Also I have a 12 gauge, looking for some 00 buck and shorty slugs, any recommendations?
I've had good results with some of their ammo, although I haven't done any ballistic testing with their JHP or anything. It was at least surefire and reasonably accurate. As far as JHP picks it's usually prudent to spend the extra $$ on known brands like Federal Hydra-Shock or Speer Gold Dot because things like that have been around and are widely used by LE, so there's a good long track record of exactly what that ammunition will do. It is expensive, but you don't need to buy a lot of it. Pinch pennies on practice ammo instead.
As far as shotguns go the gold standard is Federal with Flitecontrol. That's a proprietary type of wadding which allows it to pattern more consistently and overall a little tighter at range. It too is expensive and highly in demand. I just use whatever is available and cheap since the spread of even shitty cheap buckshot is pretty tight at HD ranges. Fiocchi has given me good results for the money.
As far as mini-slugs I think only aguila and Federal currently make them. Perpetually out of stock and overpriced, plus they might not cycle depending on what shotgun you are using. Just like bucshot I use whatever is cheap and available. If it can hit 12x12 steel at 100yd it's good enough for me.
Yeah I installed an adapter on my mossberg 500 to cycle all lengths of shells. It's only a 6 shot, so I was hoping to grab some boxes of shorty to maximize my home defense output. I've found some federal 10ct boxes from 6-8 bucks and that seems to be the best since I can't bulk buy yet. For the 9mm, the HP freedom munitions seems like a good price so I figure I'd test it out for my CC and look for acceptable fmj for range practice as well
The FM brand JHP is probably better than nothing as long as it cycles and shoots ok, but like I said I don't think that's where you should be pinching pennies.
With a shotgun you have so much energy transfer per trigger pull that the brand of ammo isn't going to matter a whole lot since any buckshot or slug will wreck the shit out of anyone you shoot with it. I don't really recommend minishells because they can induce malfunctions, which aren't worth the boost in capacity (I had my 5+1 cap Mossberg 500ATP on standby for years and never felt under-gunned).
With a handgun there really isn't much performance to work with. JHP allows for more efficient energy transfer as long as it expands reliably under a wide range of circumstances. Expensive brands of JHP are known and proven to do so. Cheap ones can, and as long as they work ok aren't any worse than regular FMJ, but I don't know how much I can trust that they will really perform as advertised. The boost in performance with pistol ammo doesn't change what dice you are rolling, but it can help load them a little in your favor so it's worth the extra dollar. I recommend spending the extra buck there on something that's been tested.
>Freedom Munitions
Never used it, but I’ sure it’s fine for range use. For HPs though I’d go with one of the more name brand ones, Federal, Hornady, etc >HP vs JHP
I could be wrong, but I believe basically all semi auto HP are JHP. They just leave off the “jacketed” part for simplicity. >12 ga 00
For HD, I like the Remington 8 pellet managed recoil. Patterns very well in my gun and the extra velocity isn’t necessary for penetration for HD. It does recoil noticeably less than full power loads as well.
The other one I like is S&B #4 27 pellet.
Recoil wise it’s pretty stout, but you do want as much velocity for #4 since it’s on the weak sides of penetration
Does this mounting for my press stand look far enough from the edge of the bench? Going to reinforce the back with a piece of sandwiched 1x4 but can't do the same with the front due to the bench legs.
The back legs get more of the force I just don't know if the front mounting point is too close to the corner. It is about 1" from the side and 1.5" from the front
Looks fine. I don't think the 1x reinforcement is necessary but it certainly won't hurt. I would suggest using fender washers though, that will stop the fasteners pulling into the wood with use.
I'm trying to remove the stock on my vz58. There's a bigass flathead screw in there about the diameter of a penny. I can't get it to budge even with the largest flathead I own.
Give it a smack with a dowel and hammer, then take one of those adjustable spanners, put an appropriately sized bit of flat bar or something in the jaws, and use that as a driver.
Who makes aftermarket 10/22 guide rods? I mean the complete assembly: handle, rod, and spring. Preferred to be captive (like stock) but not picky. So far I have: >Kidd >Volquartsen >Tandemkross ("finish already chipping off" review, lol)
The only one not $50 is Tandemkross and it doesn't sound good lol. I just want something that doesn't want to cant and jam itself so much when trying to reassemble the fricking thing. And it seems to attract dirt and get all sticky which makes reliability an issue.
It's the finish of the handle itself mentioned in the Tandemkross review from what I can tell, which is pretty embarrassing that they can't even get a black finish right (ie not doing it right, like anodizing) lol. The stock one just cants and gets stuck when reassembling. That little bit of canting makes it a b***h to reassemble at times since it's a pain to get the charging handle in the bolt notch. And the other part I mentioned about dirt. Frustrating. I might just go with the VQ non-captive one (no crimp on end) but frick does it hurt to pay $50 plus ship for something that small when VQ's own target hammer kit was like $35-37 and that included a nicely polished hammer, strut, spring, and shims lol.
Does anyone know of any good headlamps that have white light and red light but with the ability to turn from off directly to red light without clicking through the other options?
Just pulled the trigger on a griffin paladin 5. I don't really do any shooting in 30 cal mostly 22/556, and I liked the idea of being able to service it for cleaning.
I imagine I'll use it mostly on a 22 suppressor host and my 11.5 ar.
Am I going to make it or die in the streets?
Yeah, no doubt within 35yds or so. Probably good up to around 50 but you do start getting drop if you zero at a short distance. Might want to check out the 1322 as well. More power than the 1000 or 2100 and shorter. Probably shoot them in the lungs rather than the head, around the elbow/forearm (side on). Keep angles in mind so you don't just skim the rear of the lung and go into the stomach if it's facing you. Put a metal breech kit on it, throw a scope on it (you probably have one in a drawer if you're into scopes), and if you didn't get a model with an included 1399 stock throw a 1399 stock on it. Yes it's more expensive than the Legacy 1000, 2100, etc. but it has an aftermarket and it's much much easier to work on (ie. actually thought out and meant to be fixed) and MUCH EASIER to find parts for. Remember to buy some Walmart blue bottle "motor oil" from the automotive aisle and you'll have a lifetime supply of the stuff. It's the one that has no weight and says "not for use in engines" and "straight mineral oil". Give the pump O-ring 1-3 drops once a tin of 250/500. Link related is only TEN dollars more. If you really want that scope, a steel breech kit is $35 (see lower on the page for the 1322; it's cheaper than buying it outright) and that junky Tasco included with the 1000 is $17 at Walmart and can be used on the 1322 with the steel breech. I know it's slightly more expensive but damn the Legacy 1000 shouldn't be $75 when it appears they changed the receiver to plastic lol. You can also get the .177 model. It'll shoot clean through a squirrel chest if it doesn't hit the arm bones. But hey, bigger boolit and less energy wasted (likely pass through on .177) and all. Crosman hollowpoints work well. H&N make some fancy ones but I don't know if they work at those speeds.
Oh and PA is running a sale for 15% off. SOLAR15. So >1322 carbine: $85 >steel breech upgrade for scope mounting (bottom of page): $35 >Total: $120 >Minus 15% = $102 w/ no scope, buy a couple tins of pellets and a cheap scope which you need anyways and you've got free shipping.
Any woman at a range alone is a red flag you want nothing to do with.
women get into guns cause of their boyfriend.
you dont want to be the rebound guy.
or they got raped/mugged and start to take their own well being seriously.
Why have revolving rifles never really been popular?
I understand the advantage of magazines over cylinders, but I can't understand why lever shotguns were and still are more successful. There must be an explanation, though.
because the gap between the barrel leads to gasses hitting the support arm and a revolver is WAAAAYYYY more complex than a single shot. also there are chances for chain fires and generally these are going to be very expensive compared to other options. it only barely preceded common cartridge firing guns, which were significantly superior. by the time that you might have a cartridge fed revolver carbine, why not just have a lever action?
Tried my dead air mask on my glock 44 using cci standard velocity and im getting a 2-3 inch poi shift up and to the right at 7 yards which seems excessive. everything was tight and couldnt find any damage to the end cap or baffles. is this normal?
Yes POI shift is entirely normal. Even if not the can itself, you have just stuck a big frick off muzzle device on there and that's going to change how you shoot. Put it in a vice if you want to find out which it is.
https://i.imgur.com/pUSZM9N.jpg
Why have revolving rifles never really been popular?
I understand the advantage of magazines over cylinders, but I can't understand why lever shotguns were and still are more successful. There must be an explanation, though.
>Why have revolving rifles never really been popular
Because they're a fundamentally terrible idea and nobody in their right mind is going to use them for serious work. >lever shotguns were and still are more successful
More successful than, as noted, a really fricking bad idea. They're still dogshit for any serious use.
A couple years ago I remember seeing helmet cam montage footage of some American unit that later got disbanded or they got in serious shit. Everyone in the comments was shitting on them and such. They were American, in some desert area and I vaguely remember Scars and maybe some kind of LMG being used.
I think it was for killing civilians or something.
Anyone ever used the pay in four option from Credova to buy a gun? I saw it on a gun site and tried doing research but all anyone talks about is their financing options, which I'm not interested in.
So I got a good deal on 2 XPS2's, both of them seem blurry (not the astigmatism shit cause I have plenty of sights already that I have no issues with).
It gets better if I crank up the brightness and goes away completely if I use a magnifier.
Is there a protective plastic cover on the glass/resin or a setting I need to mess with cause I cant make sense out of it.
I see, I really didn't know what to expect so I guess it makes sense.
Had a buddy take a look at it saying a similar thing, "This is within normal but probably the worst I can be passing QT".
The fuzziness should go away if you are superimposing the dot onto your target rather than looking at the dot itself. Also at longer ranges it also will start diminishing.
I noticed it was alternating in severity so I appreciate the explanation, thanks.
The fuzziness should go away if you are superimposing the dot onto your target rather than looking at the dot itself. Also at longer ranges it also will start diminishing.
Why are missile ranges always more than it's altitude limit?
For example the R37 has a range of 200km but a ceiling of 25km. But all of them across the globe are like this.
Are they really that dependant of lift versus thrust to carry it places?
Mostly just girth. A common loki sounding rocket is shorter than an R37 though substantially fatter.
But why can't the R37 hit a target at 30km at 50km distance? I would imagine it would have enough fuel to carry it as it's less distance.
Why are missile ranges always more than it's altitude limit?
For example the R37 has a range of 200km but a ceiling of 25km. But all of them across the globe are like this.
Are they really that dependant of lift versus thrust to carry it places?
I have a fricked up right wrist that makes it hard to hold a standard shotgun but I like to shoot sporting clays. Any chance I can find a shotgun with a pistol grip and a 28" barrel?
Mossberg 500 with a 28 inch barrel, just buy a PG stock. Its like $50 for a decent polymer stock, unless the trap range has a "no tactical" rule like my shit local .gov ran one does.
Alright what do you rent the most then? You probably want that or something close.
Mossberg 500 with a 28 inch barrel, just buy a PG stock. Its like $50 for a decent polymer stock, unless the trap range has a "no tactical" rule like my shit local .gov ran one does.
is not a bad option (or just a Mav88, same fricking thing in effect) unless you want the 18" barrel for HD use. You're going to have an arsehole of a time finding one of those for sale, so buy the 18" gun and get one of the shitloads of secondhand 28" barrels floating around.
Oh it's easy mate, on my maverick 88 all you do is unscrew the cap on top of the magazine tube and pull up and twist on the barrel and it just slides out. I imagine just about every pump shotgun works the same.
You can get pistol grip stocks for any of the big-name popular model shotguns. 870's, Mossbergs, etc. Or like the other anon said buy a pistol grip model and get a longer barrel, on most shottys you don't even need tools to take the barrel off. This is by design so it's easy to take the gun down to travel with it. I prefer a straight stock for clays but I have a pistol grip on my slug gun, a Benelli M2.
I have a remington 700 in .30-06 that needs a scope. Will primarily be used for hunting and short range (<300m) target shooting.
What doesn't suck for less than ~$1000?
Leupold VX Freedom 3-9x40 of some kind. There's a ton of reticle options and I'm sure there's one for .30-06. If you want something closer to $500 or can't find a VX Freedom that fits .30-06. Their scopes are really nice. Go on their site and sort low to high. You won't beat it out of zero short of beating pins out of the gun while accidentally resting the scope on the surface you're working on your gun rotating the scope in the rings (oops). Scope still works like new. And no marring that I remember seeing believe it or not lol. Lifetime warranty. Really good rings for barely more than budget prices, like $30 for picatinny medium height rings. Use gun.deals and try to find prices OR call around to local gun stores and see if any of them are Leupold dealers. One nearby is and they sell them below what I assume is MAP as no one else sells them that cheap.
How are casualties usually replenished in theater? Say if a 10 man squad gets knocked down to 6 men, where would you pull 4 men from to bring it back up to full strength?
I see, I really didn't know what to expect so I guess it makes sense.
Had a buddy take a look at it saying a similar thing, "This is within normal but probably the worst I can be passing QT".
[...]
I noticed it was alternating in severity so I appreciate the explanation, thanks.
Holographic sights don't have a crisp reticle like a traditional scope does. They are always somewhat fuzzy though it looks a lot worse if you have astigmatism.
Wherever has the best deal on. Depends how many you want, you can save a couple of CPR if you're buying thousands online.
You should get both pistols, but go shoot your rifle while you decide which one first.
No guns here
I found a colt pocket positive 32 police ctg like pic related.
A big of an odd request, could someone post a picture of the bullet it uses while also measuring it's diameter with a pair of calipers? When I say bullet I mean the lead projectile.
And yes I know it is around 8mm or but I need a real life exact read, for reasons that are both boring and extensive.
.32 is nominally .312". Being an old gun, you'd want to slug or at least inspect the bore to see if it'll still stabilise that, or if you need to go a thou or two oversized to get proper engagement.
Nobody can post a pic of the cartridge because you haven't told us which .32 it's chambered for, and it sounds like your reasons are very dumb indeed. Please explain them so we can have a laugh.
>.32 is nominally .312"
Thanks, that's probably what I wanted to know.
The reasons you imagine are just that, imaginary. I have a compulsive disorder and wanted to know why some things I read were contradictory.
Since I have no guns or ammo all I had to check was this old gun. Which only led to more questions.
What did you think I was trying to do? Use a non standard projectile?
It's worse than you think. When you get into old guns you have to deal with rimfires, heeled bullets, expanding bases, and all sorts of obsolete bullshit hanging around because the tooling was available, or people were recycling barrels from old guns. A .312" bullet uses the same barrel dimensions as a .32" round ball, which is why it's still called .32.
You really need to know which specific cartridge or bullet you're on about to work out what in tardation is going on.
Your pic there is probably related to .303, it's .303" across the lands (the correct way) but the bullet is again nominally .312"
It sounds like you're asking now the name of a cartridge relates to its actual measurements. I don't know of any books which cover that. There are numerous problems: different countries have different practices or traditions when it comes to naming cartridges. Some use bore diameter, some use land diameter. Other names are based on older cartridges which were then updated: for example: .44 Magnum actually uses .429 diameter bullets. In this case it refers to the brass diameter, not the bullet diameter, this derives from the old black powder .44's which used heeled bullets and actually did measure .44. Then you've got cartridges that are deliberately given different names for various reasons, sometimes just to prevent people from confusing two similar cartridges, other times it's for marketing wank. For example the .480 Ruger is a large pistol round. If you did't know any better you might think it is more powerful than the .475 Linebaugh, another big pistol round, simply because 480 > 475. In reality both measure .475 in diameter but the .480 is a shorter case. It's actually weaker than the Linebaugh, but the name would imply otherwise. There are other factors too, like how most modern cartridges use bullets slightly oversize compared to the groove diameter of the barrel but that was not the case with some historical rounds which used Minie style projectiles or paper-patched bullets.
You probably want Greener, "The Gun".
That's an interesting book for historical interest but his son's book The Gun and Its Development by William Wellington Greener is much, much, better. In fact if there ever was a "gun bible" that is the Old Testament. You can read it free online
https://openlibrary.org/works/OL3156857W/The_gun_and_its_development
I'm going to take this Browning Auto 5 Light-Twelve out for my first turkey hunt. Will I need the rear lock screw or should it be GTG? Haven't shot it yet and just want to make sure it's safe to fire without it.
You start by inserting the muzzle device into your mouth, take it out when you realise the charging handle is a fricking kludge, chamber a round and put it back in, then pull the trigger.
I get payed 3 times next month. I am split on deciding what to buy off my whish list so I have two questions.
Cx4 or akv?
And if I plan on building a t91, brn, and jakl sometime next year should I get a pa15 lower or kp15?
Drop down to a 90 or 80.
No idea if your gun is suppressed or not.
For the G3 at least you need to go all the way down to a #17 to not get roller dents running suppressed.
That perspective is the general cultural zeitgeist in the west. From what I'm seeing there has been some back and forth frickery from both sides and plenty of corruption on Ukraine's part, but Russia has been a geopolitical bully in the region for centuries and they did kick this particular chapter of this story off by invading Ukraine. It's always satisfying to watch a bully start a fight with a smaller kid and get wrecked.
Can you make Mosin hollywood quiet?
Either caliber convert to something subsonic or load 7.62x54 down to near squib levels. Then fit a gigantic suppressor with a frickload of baffles.
https://i.imgur.com/hdPqKLm.jpg
I'm going to take this Browning Auto 5 Light-Twelve out for my first turkey hunt. Will I need the rear lock screw or should it be GTG? Haven't shot it yet and just want to make sure it's safe to fire without it.
It'll be functional, but you should periodically check that screw for walk. I've had guns that have a screw come loose as you shoot and kept them going by checking it periodically. It's annoying but possible.
I have a remington 700 in .30-06 that needs a scope. Will primarily be used for hunting and short range (<300m) target shooting.
What doesn't suck for less than ~$1000?
Leupold makes a lot of basic hunting scopes for well within that budget that have clear glass, good quality and an excellent warranty.
>That perspective is the general cultural zeitgeist in the west
That's what he said, i.e. reddit.
Also I hope you spat after describing the media-run state as a "zeitgeist".
You want a special snowflake lower that looks different from everybody else's? There's tons of those. There's ones that look like skulls, spartan helmets, punisher skulls, whatever the frick this is, ordinary skulls, etc. There's lots of skeletonized ones that have slots cut in them, and the ones that are machined from billet look different than those that came from forgings.
Closest I can think of offhand though is the BRN180 lower which I think is discontinued.
Dunno, if people couldn't change a primer or wire two contact points an even simpler option would be to use an electric cb to crush the primer of a whole conventional round. It would look like a threaded pipe cap with a button on the back.
My thinking here is that having done away with the mechanical trigger you've got something shock proof which would be used in a captive bolt/ ballistic knife type arrangement.
And as you wouldn't have to hold it to use it the device could be hidden in all kinds of silly places.
Electric primers are not exactly common.
1 month ago
Anonymous
Brn is still sold with that lower but you need to order straight from their site and it only works with jakl(kinda) and the brn 180 upper.
I meant
https://i.imgur.com/oLnsoH4.png
He means this.
though the slabside I will take into consideration.
>I just want a flat horizontal magwell mostly,
Those are not very common because the horizontal opening makes it a bit more awkward to load. Magwells are angled because it makes inserting the mag easier. But I know of at least one maker that is flat across the bottom: Sharps Bros Livewire. There's also the Silencerco SCO15--that isn't totally flat across the bottom but it is close.
Anyone use in-ear hearing protection? How do you like it? I keep getting advertisements for https://goaxil.com and wondering if anyone else uses anything similar. Seems pretty good on the hearing protection with up to 29SNR
Get a big tub of orange/generic foamies and a set of Impact Sports or whatever equivalent is cheaper/on sale. The foamies will give you maximum protection and the ears turned right up will let you hear people.
You are now set for all conditions except LARPing and can forget about it for several years.
No, I use Impact Sports on the range and out hunting. When I'm hunting with a silenced .22lr, I don't use anything. The Impact Sports are comfortable for a few hours.
I don't tend to do much shooting with anything with .22LR; too poor to shoot anything else much lol. And yeah I still need a gel cup upgrade. If a gun is too loud even with muffs or fricking up my seal then I can go to the car and grab my foam plugs. I have them in the same style of surplus case Paul always has clipped to his jacket in his videos. Just found something to dangle them off and they're always in reach.
Behind your lapel is a pretty good place for them.
Screw a couple of 10mm cases together and you have a handy little holder you can put on every coat in case you find yourself e.g. around a bunch of ethnics in a waiting room.
Short answer, you should be wearing in-ear and ear-muffs for all unsuppressed centerfire if you really shoot a lot.
Im in my 30s, I grew up shooting guns a lot and Im already getting hearing loss. I was better about my earpro than 99% of shooters around me, but still was affected.
Same as any self loader you could lock the slide back and put a drop on the rails. Frick it, you could spritz some light oil anywhere you can get it and then hit it with an air line. Can't think why you'd want to though, it's easier to just take the fricking thing apart.
Anyone here own a Howa Mini? I recently purchased one and was cycling it when I noticed that when I rapid cycle it hard it the trigger gets much heavier and gritter when I pull it. The safety cant be engaged either but when I quickly lift the bolt up and down it goes back to normal.
litgay here, is there a short and snappy term denoting clip sizes? Like a clip with a lot of rounds is called an A and one with just a few is called a B.
Clips are described by their mechanism or standard. Mannlicher, N-block, M##, etcetera. Most charging clips from prior to 1920 don't go above 5 rounds unless they're for pistols, and modern clips tend to be 10 rounds just because that's a convenient size to deal with when you're charging magazines. And yes, modern ammo still frequently get delivered in boxes full of clips just to keep things organized in transit.
If you meant magazines? People either refer to them by the milspec name (STANAG, 1911GI), something related to their appearance (like AK waffle-mags), or by their round count and intended weapon (40-round AK mag, Glock 20-rounder). Sometimes people use 'stendo as slang for an extended magazine but that's mostly making fun of the whole thing.
Clips are described by their mechanism or standard. Mannlicher, N-block, M##, etcetera. Most charging clips from prior to 1920 don't go above 5 rounds unless they're for pistols, and modern clips tend to be 10 rounds just because that's a convenient size to deal with when you're charging magazines. And yes, modern ammo still frequently get delivered in boxes full of clips just to keep things organized in transit.
If you meant magazines? People either refer to them by the milspec name (STANAG, 1911GI), something related to their appearance (like AK waffle-mags), or by their round count and intended weapon (40-round AK mag, Glock 20-rounder). Sometimes people use 'stendo as slang for an extended magazine but that's mostly making fun of the whole thing.
>Sometimes people use 'stendo as slang for an extended magazine but that's mostly making fun of the whole thing
To be clear this only applies to actual human people; when non-people use the term "stendo" they aren't taking the piss they're being 100% serious, or as they might put it, "no cap".
>clips
Also you'd really just say round count. A normal AR mag would be 30 round, shortened to 30rd. The shorter straight vietnam era ones are 20rd. Now if you're saying a SYNONYM for magazine, that's not so easy without sounding like you're some moronic inner city wannabe gang member. Like other anon said, 30rd M16/M4/AR15 mags that are aluminum are usually STANAG. Maybe you could get a couple other silly names but even those are a stretch with stuff like "Bakelite" AKM/74 mags (actually AG4 polymer/resin), Plum AKM mags, flat spine (Chinese/North Korean) AKM mags, waffle mags (AUG), maybe even "Bulgie" Bulgarian AK mags. But really using a lot of this in a serious setting would come off silly unless you were describing the gun for the first time lol.
Whoever made that edit made it as a joke over the whole "clips vs mags" thing over 10 years ago anon. I can't remember a time I didn't see that pic. I have no clue when I first saw it. Just been around forever it feels. Or maybe it was made in like 2014 and I'm going to feel moronic.
Also calling a clip a mag would be like me calling a bottle of ink a (pen) cartridge. The bottle fills the (theoretical refillable) cartridge with ink. The cartridge contains the ink and feeds it into the pen. Clips fill the magazine with ammo. The magazine contains the ammo and feeds it to the gun. Semi-related pic.
Shit I really fricked that up. You'd say 20/30/whatever round magazine. But I don't go around asking for a 30rd magazine. I'd say "hey, do you have any AR magazines?" "do you have any used AK magazines?" "any Beretta 92 magazines?" From there if there's an option, like the AR magazines, then I say "Do you have any aluminum AR mags?" or "Do you have any PMags (plastic brand of magazines)?", then if it isn't clear what one I want, like with aluminum, I'd specify "20 round" or "30 round". Round count varies by gun. Don't assume round count in a magazine. AR is mostly 30, but 20rd mags are available in aluminum and in polymer you could find just about anything. CETME L "12" (probably designed for 10) round mags exist in steel but they're not common at all and they're kinda junky. For an AK, you'd probably have a 30rd mag steel or polymer, but 20rd "tanker" mags exist as do 10 and 5rd mags which have been kicking around since the 94-04 assault weapons ban. Sometimes aftermarket mags will give a little more capacity because their design differs (or claims to improve) upon the 1st party/OEM mags. If you're looking for a name for magazines, call them magazines. If you want round count, say the round count. If you're writing moronic inner city wannabe "gangsters" it'd be appropriate to throw in them saying stupid shit like: >heater (gun, usually pistol) >clip (magazine) >'stendo (extended/"high" capacity magazine, usually for a pistol) >banana clip/banana mag (regular 30rd magazine, usually an AK, sometimes slightly higher if aftermarket) >iron (gun) >blickie (gun; this is modern advanced moronation) >glock (this is literally any handgun to a gangbanger no matter the model - see gif related which is a Hi-Point) >strapped (carrying a (hand)gun; ie. "are you strapped?")
but definitely never use any of these if your character is a soldier, hunter, redneck, etc. (or white lol). Knowing more details of the characters and the setting would help.
Why don't you see more zip guns made with electronic primers and battery buttons?
It would seem to halve the overall length and profile of the zip gun, significantly improving handling of an unavoidably awkward weapon.
because your average dickhead is absolutely >terrified< of working with electricity compared to something they can verify mechanically in a few seconds without actually touching off a round. also bad wiring and cheap batteries are more expensive and degrade faster than springs
Dunno, if people couldn't change a primer or wire two contact points an even simpler option would be to use an electric cb to crush the primer of a whole conventional round. It would look like a threaded pipe cap with a button on the back.
My thinking here is that having done away with the mechanical trigger you've got something shock proof which would be used in a captive bolt/ ballistic knife type arrangement.
And as you wouldn't have to hold it to use it the device could be hidden in all kinds of silly places.
>you've got something shock proof
most electric switches are nowhere near shock proof. You've just moved the risk of the gun going off from a mechanical trigger to a mechanical switch. There is no improvement here.
You're also complicating things. If someone has access to ordinary ammo then it's really goddamn simple to make a mechanical zip gun, you just need something to hit the primer, and there's tons of things you can easily adapt to do that. If you're going for electronic ignition instead then normal ammunition is actually a hindrance. You can set it off directly using a high enough current but that would take a big ass battery completely eliminating any potential benefit. You also have to have electrical contacts touching the primer and the case that can reliably conduct the electricity but don't short out. And all that has to be contained to withstand breech pressure. That's a pain in the ass. If you had a stash of old Remington E-tronix ammo with electric primers then you could use a smaller battery but you still have the challenge of maintaining good electric contact through a sealed breech.
Now if you get away from normal ammo and you're making a muzzleloader like the guy who shot Abe electric ignition is a lot more reliable and easier to implement, but you're dealing with the usual disadvantages that go along with muzzleloaders.
Fellow central NC denizens, are there any decent outdoor ranges? I've heard about the Anderson Creek Hunting Preserve, but haven't been there since it's a lil far.
As in like Charlotte central or like triangle? Either way you really are better off just getting in what handguns you want or pcc and getting more practice on those cause basically everything is an hour or 2 away from which ever end of either area.
Anyone have that GI Joe clips vs magazine PSA? "Learn the difference." I swear I'm not misremembering; that was an old shoop that was floating around, right?
Am I going to get a visit from the FBI if I buy a ton of books on urban warfare and army field manuals at the same time I'd really rather not end up on a watchlist
As someone who doesn't have any gear (like rigs, plate carriers, plates) where do I start? How do I get used to the weight? I don't want to go to the gym or something with plates like a tard
What were the US turreted tank destroyers (M10, M36, and M18) like during the war? Performance, reception, things like that. I'm normally not too into world war 2 history so I don't know the "common consensus" on various vehicles, but there's just something about those open topped tanks I find interesting
Turning in my crappy through 12 hands G17 Gen 3 back to work cause I'm moving. I've had a couple of Glock 17s before (Gen 4 and a Gen 5, both personal and company issues) so I have my Safariland holster and mags for it. With my holster I have their clip system so I could easily put on an adaptable holster, but I wanna move away from the Glock ecosystem.
So far my options that I found so far are:
CZ P10-F - 19+1 Capacity, inexpensive ($430 with 5 magazines shipped and processed) and reliable. Holsters are a b***h to find outside of Dara or Dasta-Lock. Safariland and others don't have good options for it that are Duty.
Beretta M92FS - 17+1 Capacity, finding them for around $550-600 new, so around $750 shipped with 5 mags. Shits everywhere. Holsters are common in the surplus market and I have a discount code with Safariland to get a refurb for around $60.
S&W M&P 9 - 17+1, S&W professionals program has like... $100 off. Holsters are around and it handles ok. I heard the triggers are hit or miss and I don't wanna risk a lemon where I have to dump a trigger kit into a money pit.
Walther PDP 5" Fullsize - Found a used one for $450. Mags are decently priced, but handles like a dream. Holsters outside of Dara are fricking non existent and calling Safariland they told me it'd be a 3 month waiting period to get it in the style I need.
I already own a TLR-1 and TLR-8, but I'm fine not using a light if someone has some other good Level 2/3 Duty Holster recommendations. Should I leave Glock or just suck it up and get a Blue Label G19 for $475 shipped and processed and go through my 7th duty Glock?
TL;DR - I'm a gay who has an option to not use a Glock, should I buy a better gun or just get another Glock?
>Beretta M92FS
is a more fun gun for personal/range use but if you have to carry it and are used to a glock you will hate it. its bulkier and more maintenance is required. >S&W M&P 9 I don't wanna risk a lemon where I have to dump a trigger kit into a money pit.
dont get it
no experience with the other 2
From my experience with M&P 2.0 pistols is that the triggers and QC are different between lots. All around I expect it to work just as well as the Glock, but I've had a friend who had a Competitor and standard M&P 2.0 and both shot wildly different from the rentals and other range user's M&Ps. Like sample size of 10 all were shooting differently. Could be how each of them sighted them in, could be a rare lemon.
Also the Beretta is heavy as frick compared to the others, but the cheap after market and DA/SA is desirable to me since I prefer it over striker personally, but I can cut losses if it means the cost of support/needed accessories can make it work.
>From my experience with M&P 2.0 pistols is that the triggers and QC are different between lots.
exactly
its more likely than not to be a money pit that needs work to get it to where you want. at the bare minimum you have to find a gunstore that lets you finger frick 10 of them instead of just the floor model. its really not worth all that effort finding a good one for a slightly different glock.
its a money pit
I've inherited an old presumably 1950s B.S.A Martini International mk. II. Upon my teardown, cleaning, inspection, and rebuild, I discovered that the tumbler (highlighted in the attached diagram in red) has a crack in the finger that engages the firing pin which will only continue to propagate with continued use. Being a critical part of the wienering and firing mechanism, this part is very important, and its failure will completely disable the gun.
My question is:
Are there services for hire out there that can machine from scratch replacement parts for antique guns where a ready supply of replacement parts no longer exists?
Attempts to find a spare for replacement online have proven fruitless.
The rest of this old gun is still in excellent condition, and I refuse to let it sit on a rack when all it needs is one part to let it continue punching targets like it was meant for.
Have any recommendations for the New England area? There's a million options out there, and I don't want to hand my only tumbler to someone I can't trust.
Nobody's going to damage it, they'll only need it for measurements. Have them bang out a few, and any other pieces made from similar bar stock. The cost's in setup. Do the finishing yourself.
Hell, you can probably file one yourself with a tracing you lazy bastard.
What would be the ideal wood for making the receiver of a firearm? If I had to whittle an entire AR-15 lower receiver with sharp pencil, a set of chisels, a micrometer, and a little drill pen for the finer details what kind of wood would be hard enough even with an even coat of epoxy to stand up to casual use?
captcha ASHHMG
>it's naturally lubricating which will cause problems.
It doesn't drip oil you moron, it's waxy. Have you never touched wood before or are you misunderstanding what you read online?
>that's right it sticks to the wax
It doesn't. Its sawdust isn't sticky either. Confirmed for you having no idea of what you're talking about.
4 weeks ago
Anonymous
I don't think anyone has ever used LV in a gun before so I don't think you do either.
It's expensive, it's rare, and it's primarily used in marine applications because the wood is waxy and self lubricating. These seem to be bad qualities for an AR-15 receiver.
Is the Winchester SXP turkshit with their factories in Turkey? Or does Winchester provide a level of QC? I bought mine because of the Winchester name. It wasn't until after I'd made the purchase that I learned that they moved their manufacturing to Turkey some years ago...
Due to my countries laws, I'm going to make a start at some black powder percussion capped guns in the near future. A revolver seems more fun I think. I'm looking at either a 1860 Colt Army or an 1858 Remington (both replicas of course). In addition to which one would you recommend (and why), would you say Uberti or Pietta are the better manufacturer?
Also, what are the "must have" items to get alongside it?
I sadly don't really have anyone to ask and don't know anybody that does it.
My grandpa found this Nikko Stirling Tiara 4x20 scope, but it doesn't seem like it does magnify at all, or maybe 2x. You also have to hold your eye a long distance (about 17cm/6.8") away from the ocular lens to get a clear sight picture.
Pic related is the the Nikko Stirling on the left, and another 4x20 scope I have on the right, both aimed at one of our bird houses from the exact same distance. When measured in an image editing program the front of the bird house is 15 pixels wide with the Stirling and 30 pixels with the other scope.
Does anybody know what the problem might be? And how to fix this?
Did he get it used? Maybe it's a long (or medium) eye relief scope? Might be for a gun where you can't put the scope directly over the action/bolt. Alternatively, make sure all the lenses are in place. I've seen scopes that "work" while the lens on one end of the tube was missing, front or back. You will be able to tell quickly as you'll be able to see internal threads or the tube will be way "deeper" (until the first lens on either side) than it should. Also, I've seen claims that the claims on zoom on different scopes may vary pretty wildly. I believe that was Backfire that said he was doing some testing on modern scopes and was amazed at how wide the difference was between various brands of "4x" scopes.
Sounds like a long eye relief scope, they're typically mounted on pistols or "scout" rifles. It's a fixed low power magnification so you can use it with both eyes open for a better field of view.
You mean a bore snake? They're really handy for shotguns and pistols, if it's a small bore rifle you're better off just adding a normal pull-through to your rod & jag kit for a "quick touch-up".
>gun jams at a range >take the mag out >rack the slide a couple times, ejecting the stuck casing in the process >with the slide locked back, I put my thumb through the ejection window and down the mag well >I turn the gun around to look down it's barrel for a lodged bullet before I begin firing again >my friend I'm at the range with yells at me as well as a patron in the stall next to us yells for me not to do that >call them morons and tell them it's obviously safe >they tell me I'm supposed to shine a light down the barrel
What's your preferred method of checking to see if your barrel is obstructed?
Looking at getting a savage A 17 as a farm rifle. I expect it will be better than the old norinco .22lr I've been using for coyotes while still being cheap enough for squirrel.
My only question is, will it be too loud to shoot without earpro?
I know you're supposed to use it for .22 lr but It never makes my ears ring, because I use a long barrel
But how
.17hmr 2800 fps supersonic is definitely more EEEEEEEEEEEEÉEEEEEE than 18in 22lr at 1100fps, like a lot
Get a pair of earplugs you goof,
I'll jump in and say you could just get a little pair of reusable plugs with a case and tie the case to your sling swivel. Now you have earpro with the gun at all times and don't need to worry about forgetting them.
That's a pretty decent idea. But I just hate putting things in my ears. That's why I use .22 lr on varmints that probably are too large.
Word from the tinitus-wise: just keep your .22 and buy a nice pair if custom-fitted ear pro that you can keep on a lanyard or pouch attached to your rifle. The reason your current .22 doesn't make your ears ring is because you've already irreparably dammaged your hearing
But I can still hear the lavender town sound.
Always use earpro. You might not have to double up for .22LR but 17HMR is louder.
Why replace the .22 with a .17? If you're not losing coyotes (I assume) then why not get a nicer .22, or if you're dead set on moar powar, a .22 mag? Also if you're a Euro of specific kind or American, get a gun that's threaded and chuck a silencer on it. Yes it adds length. But trust me, it protects your hearing. I can shoot 1200fps .22lr without earpro. Probably shouldn't, but can and do. I have delicate-ass ears and get no ringing. I don't know whether .22 mag or .17 really silence well though.
>will it be too loud to shoot without earpro?
>I know you're supposed to use it for .22 lr but It never makes my ears ring, because I use a long barrel
You have hearing damage probably lol. How long is this barrel? Because shooting at a pistol range with big ass berms to reflect noise right back at me with a 26" barrel and 710fps CCI quiet shorts still made my ears ring a little on the first shot (some weird first round pop on unsilenced bolt action). Also IIRC I shot some ~1000fps .22 recently out of an ~18.5" 10/22 and it oddly barely bothered my ears. Maybe my ears are damaged too, heh.
Alternatively, get some active ear protection like Howard Leight Impact Sports and keep them handy, like folded up on the barrel or over the scope or on the sling. They absolutely frick your directional hearing though and I go from "picking squirrels out of specific trees" to "I think I hear a squirrel somewhere over that way..."
bros why can’t I live on a farm and spend my evenings sitting on the porch with a glass of bourbon picking off coyotes with my .22
Yes, even if your ears don’t ring, any unsuppressed .22 is loud enough to cause permanent hearing loss. You should always wear earpro.
I know there smaller framed bolt action rifle and shotgun models for women and teenagers.
Is there a same thing for AR-15? Like, a more thin frame and metal shaved off everywhere it can be shaved off, to remove as much weight as possible, the latter being similar to Desert Eagle L5? Would make a good survival solution.
Most of those guns simply have a shorter length of pull on the stock and maybe a slightly shorter barrel, but the receiver and the rest of the gun are the same as the standard adult-size gun. Since most ARs have adjustable stocks you could achieve the same thing by not extending the stock all the way.
>Like a more thin frame and metal shaved off everywhere it can be shaved off, to remove as much weight as possible
You just described the WWSD rifle. There's also tons of lightweight parts for ARs on the market. Carbon fiber stocks and foreends, skeletonized receivers, etc.
>Would make a good survival solution
If you can't carry an AR either you're not surviving or you shouldn't be carrying a rifle around in the first place. My mother in law with her fricked up neck shoots one just fine once you get enough risers on there, it's carrying 10 loaded mags that would do a number on her.
Children and the elderly get a 10/22 anon.
There WAS going to be an AR in .22LR scaled down but incessant political REEEEE-ing about muh branding made them reconsider. Shame too because I'd have bought one for fun at ~$500 despite wanting a dedicated .22lr upper even if the marketing was a little cringey. But also
.
What's the most durable/cheapest reddot?
For a pistol or a rifle? Shotgun?
AR-15 (Assault rifle number 15)
Cheap: TRS 25, RXS-100
Less cheap: Sig Romeo MSR.
Buy once cry once: Vortex Sparc II
What size handgun would you use for home defense?
A long gun is preferable for HD because they are much more effective at stopping a threat and they are much more controllable since they have a stock so you get 3 points of contact with your body when you aim. The reason why handguns exist is because of portability or concealability, neither of which matter for HD. If you have to use a handgun for some reason then follow the same logic: since size and concealment aren't important don't get some tiny CCW piece that's hard to shoot well. Get a full-size duty pistol in any of the mainstream calibers, something like a cop or a solider would carry. No tiny pocket pistols, no silly meme handcannons.
Whichever size handgun you shoot most comfortably& accurately. Handguns are ideal for home defense because it frees up the other hand to call 911, open doors, flip on lights, and use as a buffer against an attacker
>what handgun is best
>actually it's a rifle
Tiresome and wrong
>home defense
Preferably a shotgun. Though a handgun is obviously better than nothing. For me I have my 590 under the bed and a handgun in my nightstand drawer. The handgun is a bit easier and faster to retrieve, but if the bad guys are still working their way through my front door I’ll have amble time to get out of bed and reach for the big boy. The handgun is really just there as a “oh shit they are coming down the hallway and I have 3 seconds to prepare myself” gun.
g17, but if you intend to also carry then you can use a g19 or probably even a p365
Full sizes but preferably what you are already comfortable shooting.
Just hide a few hundreds mines in your backyard
cant find info while googling, spews unrelated garbage, would appreciate any radiobros to clear things up
is there some max range at which EM can be tracked and traced to a location by radars or passive listening systems or whatever? i do know signal distance does depend on frequency to some degree, does that also apply to detection?
basically, if i fire up a walkie-talkie, will i get picked up by awacs 1k miles away? same question for a drone, a jammer and a radar
>i do know signal distance does depend on frequency to some degree, does that also apply to detection?
Yes. But most importantly it depends on the device you're firing up. Merely turning on a walkie-talkie doesn't transmit anything so the only way to detect that would be with really advanced equipment and since the "signal" is really just the internal workings of the walkie-talkie and is therefore super weak the range at which they'd be able to detect anything would be super fricking short. Listening on a radio is safe. But the moment you press the transmit button and start talking you will be instantly detectable to anyone looking. It's like walking around in a field at night. So long as you keep your flashlight off you are very hard to see. The moment you turn the light on you're a fricking beacon. Anything that transmits will make it very easy to see you--a radio you're talking on, the drone & its controller, etc. A jammer is like waving around a giant flashing sign screaming look at meeeeeee through a megaphone.
>is there some max range
no it all depends on the sensitivity of the device the people listening are using. There's no point where the signal just goes to zero.
If you're talking about the govt (AWACS etc) lord knows how far away they can pick stuff up from.
t. former radar tech and currently wireless (wifi) engineer
Do you have a car holster for your carry piece? Seems clever given you can drive and have access instead of fishing for it on your waist.
Hop in car
Put pew in picrel
Drive
Go to locaction and switch back to carry holster.
Whats yall thoughts? Where would you put it and how?
>car holster
Gay as frick. Too much unnecessary fricking around with your gun. Carry it on you and practice draws from different positions.
You obviously have nothing of value to offer.
I drive a nice car and where I live a lot of carjackings and organized theft. I already had a dude try to in my truck but I (narrowly) got out of there. My perspective is having a car holster to switch from my IWB/AIWB is wayyyyyyy more convenient than a carjacking holster (and the 0 concealment it offers out of the car)
>Keep in console
Yeah no, I have tools and paperwork usually in there. Hence the idea of a holster mounted somewhere on the vehicle.
For the record, I am not a truck gun homosexual. I only considered this setup as it seems intuitive and I'd rather not roll the dice twice.
They seem cool no doubt but are a bad idea. If you feel like you’re in danger to the point you need a gun THAT available, especially in car that can take you to safety, then you need to reevaluate your living conditions. Stashing it in your glove box or center console should be more than fine.
I think you're way more likely to get shot by a cop for having this than you are to ever use your gun in self defense.
get a shoulder holster like a MAN
I always keep my pistol holstered on me while driving, reasoning is in case of a car crash I don't want my loaded gun flying around the cabin.
You're either fat, moronic, or both. Keep it on your person. It literally can't be any more accessible than that. You tuck the seat belt behind the holster. Or again, are you too fat for that?
I really want to buy a CMMG Dissent but I'm worried that braces will become illegal again soon, and I live in a state where I can't SBR it unless the OAL is 29" or something like that which would completely defeat the purpose. Should I roll the dice and buy one now, or wait for the SCOTUS ruling?
Buy it with the brace and if there's a ruling against it either take it off or put a stock on it and just don't tell anyone and put it to work.
You'll just have to remove the brace. Prepare for one-handed shooting at arms length by pinching cinderblocks and raising them to eye level.
they're not known for their customer service. gl
Does anyone have the Chad Vs Virgin with the Chad revolutionary has an MP 5, and the Virgin
Milita has a large brown ruck?
Anyone have a recommendation in good quality 33 round glock mags? I wanna larp 🙂
33 round glock brand glock mag
Wanting a 22 pistol with RDS cut for cheap practice.
Tx22 Compact or P322?
I have a TX22 comp and it's unironically awesome, it's more than the normal TX22, but since you don't have much of an excuse not to get a suppressor anymore it's definitely worth the upgrade.
I’m doing my CCW class and qualification tomorrow. Any tips? Going to the range today to practice.
Practice? What hellhole are you living in. In my state we just sit in a classroom for a few hours. The range part was optional. And it was just firing a few shots point blank to demonstrate proper form.
is there an SKS gas tube with side rails that will hold steady enough to put an IR laser on it?
Anyone know (or have examples of) any gun grips or stocks that let a user hold it both as a traditional hunting rifle (), as well as with a more 'pistol' grip (
)?
I provide lust provoking image in payment.
How the frick would it let you hold it both ways? I'm majorly confused here anon. Like a hybrid? Because that would probably most closely be a "semi-pistol grip stock" which is a (somewhat) traditional hunting gun stock.
>lust provoking
>not even furry
If you want it to look somewhat traditional but have the one piece stock look, there's a middle ground. I don't know what to call this but look at any major maker for replacement stocks (so Magpul, Woox, Boyd's, etc) and they'll no doubt have some to look through. Absolutely doubt there's much in the way of wood versions of these though; many designs look like they'd snap because lolwoodgrain. Maybe I'm wrong (I hope I am).
If you want traditional(ish) look in wood but with a pistol grip, maybe try the A-TM (or B-TM) stock if you want a Mini-14 or a 10/22. Anyways, checked.
put this on an ultimak rail, done. also put the red dot there too, dust cover mounts cannot hold zero.
What are these 'hairs' on the tail of a B-52?
that's a museum display and those are so that birds don't sit there and poop on the plane.
To keep birds from landing.
>What are these 'hairs' on the tail of a B-52?
Pubic hairs or pubes start to grow in when the bomber reaches puberty. You'll see them around the tail, over the wings, and along the landing gear. It's perfectly natural and part of becoming a man.
Not a question, but every MRE should have hot sauce and coffee, and it’s bullshit that they don’t. I get mad about it every time I open up an MRE and it’s missing one or both of those
Does anyone know of any charities that directly send money to Hamas to buy weapons? I have money and want to see those israelites get fricked now more than ever after the recent bombing of that aid convoy
can anybody identify what kind of material is wrapped around this guys stock?
Heavy gauze or light canvas dyed green
cotton
Haha, that looks like coban. Cheap self adhering material used in medical settings. Would make a nice grippy wrap for ones foregrip.
Should I get my M1917 professionally reblued? It has pretty bad holster wear, the previous owner lover to shoot it out in the desert for like a decade. I'm honestly worried about killing the proof marks but I've heard conflicting anecdotes about that. I really want that blue back on her.
Get it professionally conserved, not refinished. A rust blued finish can be touched up by boiling and carding without damaging the intact bluing, however most gunsmiths are hacks that will polish and hot blue shit which destroys original finish. Watch mark Novak's Anvil series or the yt channel Backyard Ballistics for a better explanation.
Obrezes are legally considered SBRs / "weapon made from a rifle" per the 1934 NFA as they once were rifles, unless they're purposefully assembled on a demilled and rewelded reciever which is extremely rare. Don't listen to
.
so if someone took a AR15, switched the barrel & stock out for pistol ones, would that still be a rifle?
It would be an SBR
Yes, atf determines "once a rifle always a rifle" with few notable exceptions (such as the Thompson center contender)
>once a rifle always a rifle
It's "started as a rifle always a rifle". Things that start as pistols can freely switch back and forth.
My bad, thanks for the clarification fren
so what happens if you make a lower yourself?
Then it would be a pistol, same as it would be if it was built on a virgin receiver that was never fully assembled into a gun before.
If the Obrez is 26in< long, then does it still count as a SBR?
Does it just require a tax stamp? What other laws should one keep in mind?
If it's made from a rifle, then it's an SBR, stock or not. If it's made from a virgin receiver (transferred as: "other"), then you can make it a pistol. There really IS no such thing as a virgin Mosin receiver, though, and your only bet is to find a Mosin that's fricked and cheap (lol2024Mosinprices) and cut (to spec) and reweld it, at least legally. Or pay a tax stamp to make it an SBR and have to get it engraved, which would be moronic too.
>Question 24. Category of Firearm(s): “Other” refers to frames, receivers, and other firearms that are neither handguns nor long guns (rifles or shotguns), such as firearms having a pistol grip that expel a shotgun shell, or National Firearms Act (NFA) firearms, including silencers. If a frame or receiver can only be made into a long gun (rifle or shotgun), it is still a frame or receiver, not a handgun or long gun. All frames and receivers are “firearms” by definition, and subject to the same GCA limitations. See 18 U.S.C § 921(a)(3)(B). 18 U.S.C. § 922(b)(1) makes it unlawful for a licensee to sell any firearm other than a shotgun or rifle to any person under the age of 21. Since a frame or receiver for a firearm, to include one that can only be made into a long gun, is a “firearm other than a shotgun or rifle,” it cannot be transferred to anyone under the age of 21, nor can these firearms be transferred to anyone who is not a resident of the State where the transfer is to take place. Also, note that multiple sales forms are not required for frames or receivers of any firearms, or pistol grip shotguns, since they are not “pistols or revolvers” under 18 U.S.C.§ 923(g)(3)(A).
Pls spoonfeed me on what it means to cut to spec - do you mean to legally reclassify it as a pistol?
I'm kind of hoping for a cut down, stockless with shorter barrel. Which sounds like it *must* be registered as a SBR?
>Pls spoonfeed me on what it means to cut to spec
The ATF has rules on how a receiver has to be cut up to be considered legally destroyed. They specify the number and width of cuts required. He's basically saying that you could:
a) buy a mosin
b) cut up the receiver per ATF rules; now it's legally just a lump of metal.
c) repair the receiver you just cut up and use that to build your Obrez.
That is a way around the legal problem of "if it's made from a rifle then it's an SBR". The problem is that repairing the receiver after it's been legally destroyed is technically difficult.
There's basically three options:
1) Buy a mosin and SBR it
2) Do what we just talked about, legally destroying the receiver and then repairing it. This has no NFA paperwork but is a technical challenge.
3) Build it with some other action that's not a mosin where you can buy a brand new virgin receiver.
sucks that you need a stamp. good news though. if you make two and chain them together like nunchucks, it does not change anything legally. I specifically asked the ATF about this a few years ago and they emailed me back saying basically yeah nah bruh it's cool, we don't care if you make obrez nunchucks.
where can I get picatinny 5.05mm shoulder bolts in bulk?
I'm trying to connect my baofengs to CHIRP and I can't get through on either COM port listed, using the cable that came with the radio on aliexpress.
Is this shit salvageable or do I need a different cable?
https://arcanecode.com/2019/04/11/programming-your-baofeng-radio-with-chirp-and-solving-the-prolific-driver-issue/
If it's a FTDI chip then use the drivers here https://ftdichip.com/drivers/vcp-drivers/
What's the deal with combustion light-gas guns? I read they might be useful for increasing velocity of artillery, but how does hydrogen beat gunpowder? I'd think that a solid fuel would always have a greater expansion ratio after combustion than a gas, especially such a low-density gas as hydrogen. Is it more about the speed that hydrogen/oxygen mix detonates at, compared to the slower rate of triple base powder?
Can anybody point me to more info on possible military applications of combustion light gas guns? Would like to better understand their pros and cons compared to conventional weaponry.
Bullet acceleration is limited by the speed of sound in the propelling gases.
Light gas guns use compressed pure hydrogen as a piston.
Reading comprehension
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Combustion_light-gas_gun
Yeah I missed the combustion part.
Kind of telling that people have been playing with this for over 100 years now with no real progress.
they are dogshit, which is why they were tried and discarded.
Okay but WHY are they dogshit? What are their specific disadvantages compared to conventional artillery?
everything about the propellant was more difficult than nitrocellulose. Needed a larger propellant chamber, more complicated propellant handling equipment, the gun was more complicated and expensive and prone to breakage.
Does EuroOptic ever have site-wide sales like on July 4th or Christmas time? I'm trying to snag some stuff that's not ever on sale like a rangefinder and rifle chassis and they always seem to be at MSRP
I was dicking around with my shotgun and had a thought. Could you* in theory make a lever-action attachment for a semi auto shotgun which would allow you to quickly cycle it as a lever-action if it has a misfeed or if you're using ammo that won't cycle in it? It would still work as normal, including just using the charging handle as normal, but if you need to cycle/open it you can
>Open lever, which pulls bolt back and locks it
>Close bolt, which has a lip to catch the bolt release
I imagine some kind of switch to disable the bolt release tab would be useful too.
*By "Could you" I mean "By paying an actual gunsmith", not bubbaing on a shitty scrap metal lever you made of trash
Oh also that shitty doodle is obviously just to get a general idea of shape, I imagine you'd want it to be beefier than that.
>Forgot to make it not block extraction
fug, well whatever you get the idea.
Related to this, what to look out for when considering lever shotguns?
Ausgay here
Lever shotguns are big down here and 95% are turkish, the other 5% are chinese IAC 1887's
What you want to look out for is the same with all turkshit shotguns, dogshit metals used in construction, peening/ galling after 1-200 rounds (yes, really), pins going to shit, lever turning slopping because of previous 2 faults - overall, Adler etc lever shotguns are built upon Remington 870 cloned receivers and modified accordingly, the roaches ALWAYS use shit metallurgy. There's a reason why Adlers etc down here are roughly 400USD new, you get what you pay for.
The 1887 is much better, even if it's made by chinks - much easier to slick up too with a dremel and paste if it's stiff.
Also, look up on israelitetube what happens when you run high wall brass and 3in shells in turkshit shotguns, smashes them to pieces real quick.
Hope this helps Anon.
I have seen decent turkshit. Problem is nobody wants to import them, they want to screw the price down so hard it's impossible to do it right, and on the other end of things people have learned that a roachgat is worth $200 and assume (correctly) they're just getting fricked if it's any more.
Ehhhhh to each their own dude but the only SOMEWHAT decent turkshit I've seen are SxS shotguns since in America - Stoeger is made in Turkey while down here in Aus Stoeger makes their shit in Brazil in alongside Boito.
I've shot the Stoeger 9mm (made om Turkey) and holy frick it was dooooogshit. Don't even get me started on Tisas... Doesn't even bear mentioning.
tbh I hate the way the turks have flooded our market with that much WANK over the years.
It's not the turks, it's the import israelites doing it. See also piles of chinese crap in walmart etc. The chinks are also perfectly capable of making decent stuff when people are willing to pay for it, and the importers are calling the shots there.
If the turks make shit, they make shit (and they do).
It has nothing to do with the importers whatsoever - they just make inferior shit that breaks really fast. Simple as.
Tell me you've never worked in manufacturing without saying you've never worked in manufacturing.
I've never worked in manufacturing
Frick you don't tell me what to do kek
It would be a bad idea due to the possibility of forced feedback. If the weapon malfunctions in a way that the automatic cycling cycles the lever while your hand is in the loop it would injure your hand.
Would it be possible though? Sure! Would make a neat selling feature too.
Pitch it to a Turk company and they'll probably do it.
Unless it's badly rusting I'd leave it alone. If it needs to be refinished to not rust, I have had good results with Mahovsky Metalife. They are very affordable and did a good job hard chroming an old Colt for me that had been damaged in a flood.
>cycles the lever while your hand is in the loop it would injure your hand.
just don't make it a loop then, just push it forward and let the action push it back
If it's set up like your pic then either it's not possible for the CH to operate the lever or it'd be so floppy as to be unusable.
In any case even if for some reason you're clinically moronic enough to make it possible it's not going to significantly hurt your hand, we're in "putting your thumb on the back of a slide will break it" territory here. You've had worse barking your knuckles on a doorframe.
Buying my first gun what else should I buy besides the cleaning kit and ammo? Michigan gay by the way
targets, ear pro, a couple extra mags.
Extra magazines, holster or sling, earpro, eyepro, lock box if handgun.
Hopefully not a Hi-Point 380 because there are way better guns available if you spend only slightly more.
Probably once they have been out for a little bit.
I have seen the .410 version though and it was absolutely terrible. Not sure if the .357/.44 versions are any better, but if it's anything like what I saw I wouldn't want it no matter how cheap it is.
Depends on the AK you have. Typically the lug is on the gas block and the ring of the bayonet locks around the muzzle nut or slant cut comp.
On an AK-74 pattern the lug is on the front sight and the ring locks around the front of the muzzle brake.
will the gforce huckleberry get under $400? There's no way I'm paying $550 for a fricking turkroach lever-gun
How would one go about installing bayonet lugs on an AK? Explain to me as if I were a moron (I am)
What AK do you have specifically?
I'm using ammo seek and found a semi decent pick for my PDP, it's call Freedom Munitions. Can anybody attest to it? Also, is the difference between HP and JHP that great? What do you guys typically prefer?
Also I have a 12 gauge, looking for some 00 buck and shorty slugs, any recommendations?
I've had good results with some of their ammo, although I haven't done any ballistic testing with their JHP or anything. It was at least surefire and reasonably accurate. As far as JHP picks it's usually prudent to spend the extra $$ on known brands like Federal Hydra-Shock or Speer Gold Dot because things like that have been around and are widely used by LE, so there's a good long track record of exactly what that ammunition will do. It is expensive, but you don't need to buy a lot of it. Pinch pennies on practice ammo instead.
As far as shotguns go the gold standard is Federal with Flitecontrol. That's a proprietary type of wadding which allows it to pattern more consistently and overall a little tighter at range. It too is expensive and highly in demand. I just use whatever is available and cheap since the spread of even shitty cheap buckshot is pretty tight at HD ranges. Fiocchi has given me good results for the money.
As far as mini-slugs I think only aguila and Federal currently make them. Perpetually out of stock and overpriced, plus they might not cycle depending on what shotgun you are using. Just like bucshot I use whatever is cheap and available. If it can hit 12x12 steel at 100yd it's good enough for me.
Yeah I installed an adapter on my mossberg 500 to cycle all lengths of shells. It's only a 6 shot, so I was hoping to grab some boxes of shorty to maximize my home defense output. I've found some federal 10ct boxes from 6-8 bucks and that seems to be the best since I can't bulk buy yet. For the 9mm, the HP freedom munitions seems like a good price so I figure I'd test it out for my CC and look for acceptable fmj for range practice as well
The FM brand JHP is probably better than nothing as long as it cycles and shoots ok, but like I said I don't think that's where you should be pinching pennies.
With a shotgun you have so much energy transfer per trigger pull that the brand of ammo isn't going to matter a whole lot since any buckshot or slug will wreck the shit out of anyone you shoot with it. I don't really recommend minishells because they can induce malfunctions, which aren't worth the boost in capacity (I had my 5+1 cap Mossberg 500ATP on standby for years and never felt under-gunned).
With a handgun there really isn't much performance to work with. JHP allows for more efficient energy transfer as long as it expands reliably under a wide range of circumstances. Expensive brands of JHP are known and proven to do so. Cheap ones can, and as long as they work ok aren't any worse than regular FMJ, but I don't know how much I can trust that they will really perform as advertised. The boost in performance with pistol ammo doesn't change what dice you are rolling, but it can help load them a little in your favor so it's worth the extra dollar. I recommend spending the extra buck there on something that's been tested.
>Freedom Munitions
Never used it, but I’ sure it’s fine for range use. For HPs though I’d go with one of the more name brand ones, Federal, Hornady, etc
>HP vs JHP
I could be wrong, but I believe basically all semi auto HP are JHP. They just leave off the “jacketed” part for simplicity.
>12 ga 00
For HD, I like the Remington 8 pellet managed recoil. Patterns very well in my gun and the extra velocity isn’t necessary for penetration for HD. It does recoil noticeably less than full power loads as well.
The other one I like is S&B #4 27 pellet.
Recoil wise it’s pretty stout, but you do want as much velocity for #4 since it’s on the weak sides of penetration
Are freqs 151.820 and 462.562 alright to use for my family in canada? Reading poochang's infographic and this suggest so.
Does anyone have the photo of that army psy-op girl comparing the her face profile to the Bucees logo? It was better than attached pic.
I loathe that dumpy c**t.
Does this mounting for my press stand look far enough from the edge of the bench? Going to reinforce the back with a piece of sandwiched 1x4 but can't do the same with the front due to the bench legs.
The back legs get more of the force I just don't know if the front mounting point is too close to the corner. It is about 1" from the side and 1.5" from the front
Looks fine. I don't think the 1x reinforcement is necessary but it certainly won't hurt. I would suggest using fender washers though, that will stop the fasteners pulling into the wood with use.
If it's a permanent installation just slap some offcut mild plate on there with epoxy and a dozen screws and forget about it forever.
why don't youcrainians use artillery against those russian ewar towers that can jam drones?
Electromagnetic waves generally are effective at longer ranges than artillery.
why waste munitions on something that doesn't work anyway?
I'm trying to remove the stock on my vz58. There's a bigass flathead screw in there about the diameter of a penny. I can't get it to budge even with the largest flathead I own.
How do I get this thing out?
Give it a smack with a dowel and hammer, then take one of those adjustable spanners, put an appropriately sized bit of flat bar or something in the jaws, and use that as a driver.
Who makes aftermarket 10/22 guide rods? I mean the complete assembly: handle, rod, and spring. Preferred to be captive (like stock) but not picky. So far I have:
>Kidd
>Volquartsen
>Tandemkross ("finish already chipping off" review, lol)
The only one not $50 is Tandemkross and it doesn't sound good lol. I just want something that doesn't want to cant and jam itself so much when trying to reassemble the fricking thing. And it seems to attract dirt and get all sticky which makes reliability an issue.
Not sure I would give that much of a crap about the finish on .22 internals unless I was in the habit of putting guns away wet and dirty.
It's the finish of the handle itself mentioned in the Tandemkross review from what I can tell, which is pretty embarrassing that they can't even get a black finish right (ie not doing it right, like anodizing) lol. The stock one just cants and gets stuck when reassembling. That little bit of canting makes it a b***h to reassemble at times since it's a pain to get the charging handle in the bolt notch. And the other part I mentioned about dirt. Frustrating. I might just go with the VQ non-captive one (no crimp on end) but frick does it hurt to pay $50 plus ship for something that small when VQ's own target hammer kit was like $35-37 and that included a nicely polished hammer, strut, spring, and shims lol.
And if the finish is flaking off THAT, then I don't want to know how bad the bolt handle hole is and how quick it wears out.
Does anyone know of any good headlamps that have white light and red light but with the ability to turn from off directly to red light without clicking through the other options?
Sidewinder works.
Looked into it and that's gonna be perfect for what I need. Thank you!
Just try not to piss blood at how overpriced it is. Sturdy though, I'll give it that.
how cringe is it to name your guns?
Call me cringe and you'll be answering to Pookie, Booboo and the Turbokillinator 9000.
Recommendations on books about the French military during Operation Daguet/Desert Storm?
Just pulled the trigger on a griffin paladin 5. I don't really do any shooting in 30 cal mostly 22/556, and I liked the idea of being able to service it for cleaning.
I imagine I'll use it mostly on a 22 suppressor host and my 11.5 ar.
Am I going to make it or die in the streets?
thats a 22 suppressor you fool. the manufacturer may rate it for 556 but it will be loud and wear out much faster.
Any recommendations for red dots? Should I just buy some eotech shit? It'll be for a rifle, if that matters.
Would one of those cheap 22 airguns with like 1000fps be sufficient for blasting squirrels/rats/etc?
That's plenty of power for a rat or squirrel. It doesn't take much. Worry about accuracy rather than power.
Got it, follow up question- would one of those cheap airguns be accurate enough for blasting squirrels at close, (for a gun), range?
Absolutely, yes
Yeah, no doubt within 35yds or so. Probably good up to around 50 but you do start getting drop if you zero at a short distance. Might want to check out the 1322 as well. More power than the 1000 or 2100 and shorter. Probably shoot them in the lungs rather than the head, around the elbow/forearm (side on). Keep angles in mind so you don't just skim the rear of the lung and go into the stomach if it's facing you. Put a metal breech kit on it, throw a scope on it (you probably have one in a drawer if you're into scopes), and if you didn't get a model with an included 1399 stock throw a 1399 stock on it. Yes it's more expensive than the Legacy 1000, 2100, etc. but it has an aftermarket and it's much much easier to work on (ie. actually thought out and meant to be fixed) and MUCH EASIER to find parts for. Remember to buy some Walmart blue bottle "motor oil" from the automotive aisle and you'll have a lifetime supply of the stuff. It's the one that has no weight and says "not for use in engines" and "straight mineral oil". Give the pump O-ring 1-3 drops once a tin of 250/500. Link related is only TEN dollars more. If you really want that scope, a steel breech kit is $35 (see lower on the page for the 1322; it's cheaper than buying it outright) and that junky Tasco included with the 1000 is $17 at Walmart and can be used on the 1322 with the steel breech. I know it's slightly more expensive but damn the Legacy 1000 shouldn't be $75 when it appears they changed the receiver to plastic lol. You can also get the .177 model. It'll shoot clean through a squirrel chest if it doesn't hit the arm bones. But hey, bigger boolit and less energy wasted (likely pass through on .177) and all. Crosman hollowpoints work well. H&N make some fancy ones but I don't know if they work at those speeds.
https://www.pyramydair.com/product/crosman-p1322-with-shoulder-stock-black?m=3608
Oh and PA is running a sale for 15% off. SOLAR15. So
>1322 carbine: $85
>steel breech upgrade for scope mounting (bottom of page): $35
>Total: $120
>Minus 15% = $102 w/ no scope, buy a couple tins of pellets and a cheap scope which you need anyways and you've got free shipping.
anyone meet a qt at the range or through this hobby
did you accept loneliness or still trying to find a good relationship
Any woman at a range alone is a red flag you want nothing to do with.
women get into guns cause of their boyfriend.
you dont want to be the rebound guy.
or they got raped/mugged and start to take their own well being seriously.
Why have revolving rifles never really been popular?
I understand the advantage of magazines over cylinders, but I can't understand why lever shotguns were and still are more successful. There must be an explanation, though.
Awkward, expensive, and only a very brief time from their introduction until lever actions appeared.
because the gap between the barrel leads to gasses hitting the support arm and a revolver is WAAAAYYYY more complex than a single shot. also there are chances for chain fires and generally these are going to be very expensive compared to other options. it only barely preceded common cartridge firing guns, which were significantly superior. by the time that you might have a cartridge fed revolver carbine, why not just have a lever action?
Tried my dead air mask on my glock 44 using cci standard velocity and im getting a 2-3 inch poi shift up and to the right at 7 yards which seems excessive. everything was tight and couldnt find any damage to the end cap or baffles. is this normal?
Yes POI shift is entirely normal. Even if not the can itself, you have just stuck a big frick off muzzle device on there and that's going to change how you shoot. Put it in a vice if you want to find out which it is.
>Why have revolving rifles never really been popular
Because they're a fundamentally terrible idea and nobody in their right mind is going to use them for serious work.
>lever shotguns were and still are more successful
More successful than, as noted, a really fricking bad idea. They're still dogshit for any serious use.
Does anybody know what unit I’m thinking about?
A couple years ago I remember seeing helmet cam montage footage of some American unit that later got disbanded or they got in serious shit. Everyone in the comments was shitting on them and such. They were American, in some desert area and I vaguely remember Scars and maybe some kind of LMG being used.
I think it was for killing civilians or something.
Blackwater? Or are you thinking about the aussie c**ts that wasted a random farmer before exfil?
Anyone ever used the pay in four option from Credova to buy a gun? I saw it on a gun site and tried doing research but all anyone talks about is their financing options, which I'm not interested in.
Yes, good. Goood goy.
>buying guns bad
you can buy guns without using a debt system.
I'm fairly certain credova is financing only, rather than 0% interest installments, which is what I think you're looking for.
Are you sure?
https://credova.com/payinfour
Hey that's a great idea! I could use that to finance a pizza, or even a pack of menthols! Truly Credova™ is my greatest ally.
live richly!™
So I got a good deal on 2 XPS2's, both of them seem blurry (not the astigmatism shit cause I have plenty of sights already that I have no issues with).
It gets better if I crank up the brightness and goes away completely if I use a magnifier.
Is there a protective plastic cover on the glass/resin or a setting I need to mess with cause I cant make sense out of it.
Can't say for sure without looking through your sights but holographic sights in general are a bit "fuzzy" by nature.
I see, I really didn't know what to expect so I guess it makes sense.
Had a buddy take a look at it saying a similar thing, "This is within normal but probably the worst I can be passing QT".
I noticed it was alternating in severity so I appreciate the explanation, thanks.
The fuzziness should go away if you are superimposing the dot onto your target rather than looking at the dot itself. Also at longer ranges it also will start diminishing.
Did the tiger I tank ever get a casemate TD variant?
Dumb question, where do Anons get the fake inventory stickers
Why are missile ranges always more than it's altitude limit?
For example the R37 has a range of 200km but a ceiling of 25km. But all of them across the globe are like this.
Are they really that dependant of lift versus thrust to carry it places?
Look at the size of a rocket that's operating outside the stratosphere and consider if you could fit that on a plane.
Mostly just girth. A common loki sounding rocket is shorter than an R37 though substantially fatter.
But why can't the R37 hit a target at 30km at 50km distance? I would imagine it would have enough fuel to carry it as it's less distance.
What's beneath the dome?
a radar system or satellite dish.
because going up is harder than going sideways.
yall like this pistol target I'm making?
Training for those dick shots, huh?
Who is this?
Context: Croatian music video where guy gets sad seeing it on the bar TV so Im assuming its some croatian war criminal
I have a fricked up right wrist that makes it hard to hold a standard shotgun but I like to shoot sporting clays. Any chance I can find a shotgun with a pistol grip and a 28" barrel?
>buy shotgun with pistol grip
>buy 28" barrel
>replace barrel
>???
>PROFIT
Are most common shotgun barrels easily replaceable with standard tools? I don't really work on my guns much other than cleaning and basic maintenance.
You won't even need a tool m8. Do you have a shotgun?
No, I've rented every time I've done trap or sporting clays.
Mossberg 500 with a 28 inch barrel, just buy a PG stock. Its like $50 for a decent polymer stock, unless the trap range has a "no tactical" rule like my shit local .gov ran one does.
Alright what do you rent the most then? You probably want that or something close.
is not a bad option (or just a Mav88, same fricking thing in effect) unless you want the 18" barrel for HD use. You're going to have an arsehole of a time finding one of those for sale, so buy the 18" gun and get one of the shitloads of secondhand 28" barrels floating around.
Oh it's easy mate, on my maverick 88 all you do is unscrew the cap on top of the magazine tube and pull up and twist on the barrel and it just slides out. I imagine just about every pump shotgun works the same.
You can get pistol grip stocks for any of the big-name popular model shotguns. 870's, Mossbergs, etc. Or like the other anon said buy a pistol grip model and get a longer barrel, on most shottys you don't even need tools to take the barrel off. This is by design so it's easy to take the gun down to travel with it. I prefer a straight stock for clays but I have a pistol grip on my slug gun, a Benelli M2.
Anyone know that type of vehicle that has a pair of screw looking things instead of wheels? What are they called?
Amphirol is a well known name sort of like "Xerox" or "kleenex", or simply "screw propelled vehicle"
Reminds me of:
But I have no clue what it's called sorry anon.
Leupold VX Freedom 3-9x40 of some kind. There's a ton of reticle options and I'm sure there's one for .30-06. If you want something closer to $500 or can't find a VX Freedom that fits .30-06. Their scopes are really nice. Go on their site and sort low to high. You won't beat it out of zero short of beating pins out of the gun while accidentally resting the scope on the surface you're working on your gun rotating the scope in the rings (oops). Scope still works like new. And no marring that I remember seeing believe it or not lol. Lifetime warranty. Really good rings for barely more than budget prices, like $30 for picatinny medium height rings. Use gun.deals and try to find prices OR call around to local gun stores and see if any of them are Leupold dealers. One nearby is and they sell them below what I assume is MAP as no one else sells them that cheap.
Screwdrivers
I have a remington 700 in .30-06 that needs a scope. Will primarily be used for hunting and short range (<300m) target shooting.
What doesn't suck for less than ~$1000?
SFWA SS 10x42 HD is absolutely fantastic for the price.
Love mine for 200-600yd target shooting.
How are casualties usually replenished in theater? Say if a 10 man squad gets knocked down to 6 men, where would you pull 4 men from to bring it back up to full strength?
Is it SIWS or KIWS?
"Sea-whizz" is how I always hear it pronounced.
Holographic sights don't have a crisp reticle like a traditional scope does. They are always somewhat fuzzy though it looks a lot worse if you have astigmatism.
Appreciate it.
Sea-wiz
anyone know why Pasadena gun center closed down? Im assuming profit or leasing/insurance issue but maybe someone here knows.
Closed due to AIDS.
I just got a .22 rifle. Where's the best place to get ammo?
Also, should I get a pistol chambered in .22 or a glock
Wherever has the best deal on. Depends how many you want, you can save a couple of CPR if you're buying thousands online.
You should get both pistols, but go shoot your rifle while you decide which one first.
No guns here
I found a colt pocket positive 32 police ctg like pic related.
A big of an odd request, could someone post a picture of the bullet it uses while also measuring it's diameter with a pair of calipers? When I say bullet I mean the lead projectile.
And yes I know it is around 8mm or but I need a real life exact read, for reasons that are both boring and extensive.
.32 is nominally .312". Being an old gun, you'd want to slug or at least inspect the bore to see if it'll still stabilise that, or if you need to go a thou or two oversized to get proper engagement.
Nobody can post a pic of the cartridge because you haven't told us which .32 it's chambered for, and it sounds like your reasons are very dumb indeed. Please explain them so we can have a laugh.
>.32 is nominally .312"
Thanks, that's probably what I wanted to know.
The reasons you imagine are just that, imaginary. I have a compulsive disorder and wanted to know why some things I read were contradictory.
Since I have no guns or ammo all I had to check was this old gun. Which only led to more questions.
What did you think I was trying to do? Use a non standard projectile?
It's worse than you think. When you get into old guns you have to deal with rimfires, heeled bullets, expanding bases, and all sorts of obsolete bullshit hanging around because the tooling was available, or people were recycling barrels from old guns. A .312" bullet uses the same barrel dimensions as a .32" round ball, which is why it's still called .32.
You really need to know which specific cartridge or bullet you're on about to work out what in tardation is going on.
Your pic there is probably related to .303, it's .303" across the lands (the correct way) but the bullet is again nominally .312"
I see. I appreciate the help. I really do. Do you know if there is a specific book I could get to read more about this?
You probably want Greener, "The Gun".
It sounds like you're asking now the name of a cartridge relates to its actual measurements. I don't know of any books which cover that. There are numerous problems: different countries have different practices or traditions when it comes to naming cartridges. Some use bore diameter, some use land diameter. Other names are based on older cartridges which were then updated: for example: .44 Magnum actually uses .429 diameter bullets. In this case it refers to the brass diameter, not the bullet diameter, this derives from the old black powder .44's which used heeled bullets and actually did measure .44. Then you've got cartridges that are deliberately given different names for various reasons, sometimes just to prevent people from confusing two similar cartridges, other times it's for marketing wank. For example the .480 Ruger is a large pistol round. If you did't know any better you might think it is more powerful than the .475 Linebaugh, another big pistol round, simply because 480 > 475. In reality both measure .475 in diameter but the .480 is a shorter case. It's actually weaker than the Linebaugh, but the name would imply otherwise. There are other factors too, like how most modern cartridges use bullets slightly oversize compared to the groove diameter of the barrel but that was not the case with some historical rounds which used Minie style projectiles or paper-patched bullets.
That's an interesting book for historical interest but his son's book The Gun and Its Development by William Wellington Greener is much, much, better. In fact if there ever was a "gun bible" that is the Old Testament. You can read it free online
https://openlibrary.org/works/OL3156857W/The_gun_and_its_development
Does anyone have experience with the PSA KS-47? I've been thinking about getting one for a little while and want to hear some opinions.
I'm going to take this Browning Auto 5 Light-Twelve out for my first turkey hunt. Will I need the rear lock screw or should it be GTG? Haven't shot it yet and just want to make sure it's safe to fire without it.
Any recommendations for books or publications that discuss US Army/Marine Corps tactics for fighting at night?
How do i zero my m16 for 100m ?
From what setting should i start ?
You start by inserting the muzzle device into your mouth, take it out when you realise the charging handle is a fricking kludge, chamber a round and put it back in, then pull the trigger.
Can you make Mosin Hollywood quiet?
convert it to 22lr.
I get payed 3 times next month. I am split on deciding what to buy off my whish list so I have two questions.
Cx4 or akv?
And if I plan on building a t91, brn, and jakl sometime next year should I get a pa15 lower or kp15?
Can I fix this shit on my own or am I going to have to contact customer support?
Get a new recoil spring, maybe change the locking piece. Your bolt is moving too fast when it reaches the end of travel.
Okay. New recoil spring ain't too bad pricewise. What locking piece should I get? Just a replacement? Right now what's in there is 100 degrees.
Drop down to a 90 or 80.
No idea if your gun is suppressed or not.
For the G3 at least you need to go all the way down to a #17 to not get roller dents running suppressed.
I run it with a can sometimes. Maybe 1/3rd of all the ammunition I fire are subs through the can.
Double check your bolt gap - too much gap causes the same problems as bad spring and bad locking piece.
.050" , if I measured correctly.
What gun? That G3 pistol? Yeah Hop (?) said they still don't include the right locking piece lol.
Why is the board so pro-ukraine? Not saying RUSSIA GUD or anything, but the average post about that war looks straight out of reddit
That perspective is the general cultural zeitgeist in the west. From what I'm seeing there has been some back and forth frickery from both sides and plenty of corruption on Ukraine's part, but Russia has been a geopolitical bully in the region for centuries and they did kick this particular chapter of this story off by invading Ukraine. It's always satisfying to watch a bully start a fight with a smaller kid and get wrecked.
Either caliber convert to something subsonic or load 7.62x54 down to near squib levels. Then fit a gigantic suppressor with a frickload of baffles.
It'll be functional, but you should periodically check that screw for walk. I've had guns that have a screw come loose as you shoot and kept them going by checking it periodically. It's annoying but possible.
Leupold makes a lot of basic hunting scopes for well within that budget that have clear glass, good quality and an excellent warranty.
>That perspective is the general cultural zeitgeist in the west
That's what he said, i.e. reddit.
Also I hope you spat after describing the media-run state as a "zeitgeist".
years of annoying vatniks shitting up the place has jaded people
In the vietnam war, what kind of small arms would tankers get to protect themselves?
the m3 grease gun was still commonly used by tankers all the way up until the 90s
Are there any ar15 lowers that don't look aesthetically homogeneous accept for minor details yet?
You want a special snowflake lower that looks different from everybody else's? There's tons of those. There's ones that look like skulls, spartan helmets, punisher skulls, whatever the frick this is, ordinary skulls, etc. There's lots of skeletonized ones that have slots cut in them, and the ones that are machined from billet look different than those that came from forgings.
So badass...
I just want a flat horizontal magwell mostly,
Not that anon. Retro slabside lowers maybe? Something you'd see on a Colt 601. I have no clue what the frick a flat horizontal magwell means.
He means this.
Closest I can think of offhand though is the BRN180 lower which I think is discontinued.
Electric primers are not exactly common.
Brn is still sold with that lower but you need to order straight from their site and it only works with jakl(kinda) and the brn 180 upper.
I meant
though the slabside I will take into consideration.
>I just want a flat horizontal magwell mostly,
Those are not very common because the horizontal opening makes it a bit more awkward to load. Magwells are angled because it makes inserting the mag easier. But I know of at least one maker that is flat across the bottom: Sharps Bros Livewire. There's also the Silencerco SCO15--that isn't totally flat across the bottom but it is close.
Anyone use in-ear hearing protection? How do you like it? I keep getting advertisements for https://goaxil.com and wondering if anyone else uses anything similar. Seems pretty good on the hearing protection with up to 29SNR
Get a big tub of orange/generic foamies and a set of Impact Sports or whatever equivalent is cheaper/on sale. The foamies will give you maximum protection and the ears turned right up will let you hear people.
You are now set for all conditions except LARPing and can forget about it for several years.
No, I use Impact Sports on the range and out hunting. When I'm hunting with a silenced .22lr, I don't use anything. The Impact Sports are comfortable for a few hours.
If you're shooting a lot of rifle you should have foamies in too. Even with gel cups it doesn't take much to break the seal.
I don't tend to do much shooting with anything with .22LR; too poor to shoot anything else much lol. And yeah I still need a gel cup upgrade. If a gun is too loud even with muffs or fricking up my seal then I can go to the car and grab my foam plugs. I have them in the same style of surplus case Paul always has clipped to his jacket in his videos. Just found something to dangle them off and they're always in reach.
Behind your lapel is a pretty good place for them.
Screw a couple of 10mm cases together and you have a handy little holder you can put on every coat in case you find yourself e.g. around a bunch of ethnics in a waiting room.
Short answer, you should be wearing in-ear and ear-muffs for all unsuppressed centerfire if you really shoot a lot.
Im in my 30s, I grew up shooting guns a lot and Im already getting hearing loss. I was better about my earpro than 99% of shooters around me, but still was affected.
Can I lube this thing without fieldstripping it? If so, where do I lube?
Same as any self loader you could lock the slide back and put a drop on the rails. Frick it, you could spritz some light oil anywhere you can get it and then hit it with an air line. Can't think why you'd want to though, it's easier to just take the fricking thing apart.
Anyone here own a Howa Mini? I recently purchased one and was cycling it when I noticed that when I rapid cycle it hard it the trigger gets much heavier and gritter when I pull it. The safety cant be engaged either but when I quickly lift the bolt up and down it goes back to normal.
litgay here, is there a short and snappy term denoting clip sizes? Like a clip with a lot of rounds is called an A and one with just a few is called a B.
>clip
Clips are described by their mechanism or standard. Mannlicher, N-block, M##, etcetera. Most charging clips from prior to 1920 don't go above 5 rounds unless they're for pistols, and modern clips tend to be 10 rounds just because that's a convenient size to deal with when you're charging magazines. And yes, modern ammo still frequently get delivered in boxes full of clips just to keep things organized in transit.
If you meant magazines? People either refer to them by the milspec name (STANAG, 1911GI), something related to their appearance (like AK waffle-mags), or by their round count and intended weapon (40-round AK mag, Glock 20-rounder). Sometimes people use 'stendo as slang for an extended magazine but that's mostly making fun of the whole thing.
Alright cool, I will just have to go full milspec then I think
>Sometimes people use 'stendo as slang for an extended magazine but that's mostly making fun of the whole thing
To be clear this only applies to actual human people; when non-people use the term "stendo" they aren't taking the piss they're being 100% serious, or as they might put it, "no cap".
>clips
Also you'd really just say round count. A normal AR mag would be 30 round, shortened to 30rd. The shorter straight vietnam era ones are 20rd. Now if you're saying a SYNONYM for magazine, that's not so easy without sounding like you're some moronic inner city wannabe gang member. Like other anon said, 30rd M16/M4/AR15 mags that are aluminum are usually STANAG. Maybe you could get a couple other silly names but even those are a stretch with stuff like "Bakelite" AKM/74 mags (actually AG4 polymer/resin), Plum AKM mags, flat spine (Chinese/North Korean) AKM mags, waffle mags (AUG), maybe even "Bulgie" Bulgarian AK mags. But really using a lot of this in a serious setting would come off silly unless you were describing the gun for the first time lol.
Whoever made that edit is a moron who doesn't know how military 5.56mm comes packaged.
Whoever made that edit made it as a joke over the whole "clips vs mags" thing over 10 years ago anon. I can't remember a time I didn't see that pic. I have no clue when I first saw it. Just been around forever it feels. Or maybe it was made in like 2014 and I'm going to feel moronic.
Also calling a clip a mag would be like me calling a bottle of ink a (pen) cartridge. The bottle fills the (theoretical refillable) cartridge with ink. The cartridge contains the ink and feeds it into the pen. Clips fill the magazine with ammo. The magazine contains the ammo and feeds it to the gun. Semi-related pic.
Shit I really fricked that up. You'd say 20/30/whatever round magazine. But I don't go around asking for a 30rd magazine. I'd say "hey, do you have any AR magazines?" "do you have any used AK magazines?" "any Beretta 92 magazines?" From there if there's an option, like the AR magazines, then I say "Do you have any aluminum AR mags?" or "Do you have any PMags (plastic brand of magazines)?", then if it isn't clear what one I want, like with aluminum, I'd specify "20 round" or "30 round". Round count varies by gun. Don't assume round count in a magazine. AR is mostly 30, but 20rd mags are available in aluminum and in polymer you could find just about anything. CETME L "12" (probably designed for 10) round mags exist in steel but they're not common at all and they're kinda junky. For an AK, you'd probably have a 30rd mag steel or polymer, but 20rd "tanker" mags exist as do 10 and 5rd mags which have been kicking around since the 94-04 assault weapons ban. Sometimes aftermarket mags will give a little more capacity because their design differs (or claims to improve) upon the 1st party/OEM mags. If you're looking for a name for magazines, call them magazines. If you want round count, say the round count. If you're writing moronic inner city wannabe "gangsters" it'd be appropriate to throw in them saying stupid shit like:
>heater (gun, usually pistol)
>clip (magazine)
>'stendo (extended/"high" capacity magazine, usually for a pistol)
>banana clip/banana mag (regular 30rd magazine, usually an AK, sometimes slightly higher if aftermarket)
>iron (gun)
>blickie (gun; this is modern advanced moronation)
>glock (this is literally any handgun to a gangbanger no matter the model - see gif related which is a Hi-Point)
>strapped (carrying a (hand)gun; ie. "are you strapped?")
but definitely never use any of these if your character is a soldier, hunter, redneck, etc. (or white lol). Knowing more details of the characters and the setting would help.
I just bought a Ruger PCC. I have an extra handgun red dot, could I just slap it on the pic rail and call it a day or will that not work?
yes, only issue would be if the handgun red dot has a super big MOA dot which would not give the best prescision on a rifle but not a huge issue
Why don't you see more zip guns made with electronic primers and battery buttons?
It would seem to halve the overall length and profile of the zip gun, significantly improving handling of an unavoidably awkward weapon.
because your average dickhead is absolutely >terrified< of working with electricity compared to something they can verify mechanically in a few seconds without actually touching off a round. also bad wiring and cheap batteries are more expensive and degrade faster than springs
Dunno, if people couldn't change a primer or wire two contact points an even simpler option would be to use an electric cb to crush the primer of a whole conventional round. It would look like a threaded pipe cap with a button on the back.
My thinking here is that having done away with the mechanical trigger you've got something shock proof which would be used in a captive bolt/ ballistic knife type arrangement.
And as you wouldn't have to hold it to use it the device could be hidden in all kinds of silly places.
>you've got something shock proof
most electric switches are nowhere near shock proof. You've just moved the risk of the gun going off from a mechanical trigger to a mechanical switch. There is no improvement here.
You're also complicating things. If someone has access to ordinary ammo then it's really goddamn simple to make a mechanical zip gun, you just need something to hit the primer, and there's tons of things you can easily adapt to do that. If you're going for electronic ignition instead then normal ammunition is actually a hindrance. You can set it off directly using a high enough current but that would take a big ass battery completely eliminating any potential benefit. You also have to have electrical contacts touching the primer and the case that can reliably conduct the electricity but don't short out. And all that has to be contained to withstand breech pressure. That's a pain in the ass. If you had a stash of old Remington E-tronix ammo with electric primers then you could use a smaller battery but you still have the challenge of maintaining good electric contact through a sealed breech.
Now if you get away from normal ammo and you're making a muzzleloader like the guy who shot Abe electric ignition is a lot more reliable and easier to implement, but you're dealing with the usual disadvantages that go along with muzzleloaders.
What rail system is this?
Troy alpha rail
https://worldoftroy.com/product-category/battlerails/alpha/
Fellow central NC denizens, are there any decent outdoor ranges? I've heard about the Anderson Creek Hunting Preserve, but haven't been there since it's a lil far.
As in like Charlotte central or like triangle? Either way you really are better off just getting in what handguns you want or pcc and getting more practice on those cause basically everything is an hour or 2 away from which ever end of either area.
Anyone have that GI Joe clips vs magazine PSA? "Learn the difference." I swear I'm not misremembering; that was an old shoop that was floating around, right?
Am I going to get a visit from the FBI if I buy a ton of books on urban warfare and army field manuals at the same time I'd really rather not end up on a watchlist
>buy
Just use an incognito browser and I'm sure you'll be fine dude
Thinking about getting a new trigger for my P226. Any recommendations?
the factory Short Reset Trigger offered by sig is pretty damn good imo. there is also a "short trigger" which is different.
As someone who doesn't have any gear (like rigs, plate carriers, plates) where do I start? How do I get used to the weight? I don't want to go to the gym or something with plates like a tard
Also, I feel that i should mention I'm pretty short. 155cm
Buy some surplus webbing, put 16 loaded mags in it, and go for a fricking walk.
I asked this in the .22 thread which seems really slow or dead, might be better to have asked here
Man you really are desperate for someone to call you a moron aren't you.
What were the US turreted tank destroyers (M10, M36, and M18) like during the war? Performance, reception, things like that. I'm normally not too into world war 2 history so I don't know the "common consensus" on various vehicles, but there's just something about those open topped tanks I find interesting
Duty pistol replacement question:
Turning in my crappy through 12 hands G17 Gen 3 back to work cause I'm moving. I've had a couple of Glock 17s before (Gen 4 and a Gen 5, both personal and company issues) so I have my Safariland holster and mags for it. With my holster I have their clip system so I could easily put on an adaptable holster, but I wanna move away from the Glock ecosystem.
So far my options that I found so far are:
CZ P10-F - 19+1 Capacity, inexpensive ($430 with 5 magazines shipped and processed) and reliable. Holsters are a b***h to find outside of Dara or Dasta-Lock. Safariland and others don't have good options for it that are Duty.
Beretta M92FS - 17+1 Capacity, finding them for around $550-600 new, so around $750 shipped with 5 mags. Shits everywhere. Holsters are common in the surplus market and I have a discount code with Safariland to get a refurb for around $60.
S&W M&P 9 - 17+1, S&W professionals program has like... $100 off. Holsters are around and it handles ok. I heard the triggers are hit or miss and I don't wanna risk a lemon where I have to dump a trigger kit into a money pit.
Walther PDP 5" Fullsize - Found a used one for $450. Mags are decently priced, but handles like a dream. Holsters outside of Dara are fricking non existent and calling Safariland they told me it'd be a 3 month waiting period to get it in the style I need.
I already own a TLR-1 and TLR-8, but I'm fine not using a light if someone has some other good Level 2/3 Duty Holster recommendations. Should I leave Glock or just suck it up and get a Blue Label G19 for $475 shipped and processed and go through my 7th duty Glock?
TL;DR - I'm a gay who has an option to not use a Glock, should I buy a better gun or just get another Glock?
>Beretta M92FS
is a more fun gun for personal/range use but if you have to carry it and are used to a glock you will hate it. its bulkier and more maintenance is required.
>S&W M&P 9 I don't wanna risk a lemon where I have to dump a trigger kit into a money pit.
dont get it
no experience with the other 2
From my experience with M&P 2.0 pistols is that the triggers and QC are different between lots. All around I expect it to work just as well as the Glock, but I've had a friend who had a Competitor and standard M&P 2.0 and both shot wildly different from the rentals and other range user's M&Ps. Like sample size of 10 all were shooting differently. Could be how each of them sighted them in, could be a rare lemon.
Also the Beretta is heavy as frick compared to the others, but the cheap after market and DA/SA is desirable to me since I prefer it over striker personally, but I can cut losses if it means the cost of support/needed accessories can make it work.
>From my experience with M&P 2.0 pistols is that the triggers and QC are different between lots.
exactly
its more likely than not to be a money pit that needs work to get it to where you want. at the bare minimum you have to find a gunstore that lets you finger frick 10 of them instead of just the floor model. its really not worth all that effort finding a good one for a slightly different glock.
its a money pit
92FS
If you're used to a Glock and have all your stuff for a Glock then get another fricking Glock.
Buy whatever you want for range fun time.
Is SL-8 cool? Fake G36 seems fun but single stack ten round mags seems super gay.
I've inherited an old presumably 1950s B.S.A Martini International mk. II. Upon my teardown, cleaning, inspection, and rebuild, I discovered that the tumbler (highlighted in the attached diagram in red) has a crack in the finger that engages the firing pin which will only continue to propagate with continued use. Being a critical part of the wienering and firing mechanism, this part is very important, and its failure will completely disable the gun.
My question is:
Are there services for hire out there that can machine from scratch replacement parts for antique guns where a ready supply of replacement parts no longer exists?
Attempts to find a spare for replacement online have proven fruitless.
The rest of this old gun is still in excellent condition, and I refuse to let it sit on a rack when all it needs is one part to let it continue punching targets like it was meant for.
>Are there services for hire out there that can machine from scratch replacement parts
Yes. A competent gunsmith can do it, so can a machine shop.
Have any recommendations for the New England area? There's a million options out there, and I don't want to hand my only tumbler to someone I can't trust.
Nobody's going to damage it, they'll only need it for measurements. Have them bang out a few, and any other pieces made from similar bar stock. The cost's in setup. Do the finishing yourself.
Hell, you can probably file one yourself with a tracing you lazy bastard.
Got a Winchester SXP Shadow Defender yesterday and was wondering what company makes good accessories for it.
Mainly a side saddle shell holder.
What would be the ideal wood for making the receiver of a firearm? If I had to whittle an entire AR-15 lower receiver with sharp pencil, a set of chisels, a micrometer, and a little drill pen for the finer details what kind of wood would be hard enough even with an even coat of epoxy to stand up to casual use?
captcha ASHHMG
Lignum vitae ought to work just fine. You'll be whittling for a while.
Lignum Vitae is extremely oily and while it's hard AF it's naturally lubricating which will cause problems.
>it's naturally lubricating which will cause problems.
It doesn't drip oil you moron, it's waxy. Have you never touched wood before or are you misunderstanding what you read online?
It's waxy, guess where the DI debris goes? that's right it sticks to the wax. Bad idea.
>that's right it sticks to the wax
It doesn't. Its sawdust isn't sticky either. Confirmed for you having no idea of what you're talking about.
I don't think anyone has ever used LV in a gun before so I don't think you do either.
It's expensive, it's rare, and it's primarily used in marine applications because the wood is waxy and self lubricating. These seem to be bad qualities for an AR-15 receiver.
Is the Winchester SXP turkshit with their factories in Turkey? Or does Winchester provide a level of QC? I bought mine because of the Winchester name. It wasn't until after I'd made the purchase that I learned that they moved their manufacturing to Turkey some years ago...
Due to my countries laws, I'm going to make a start at some black powder percussion capped guns in the near future. A revolver seems more fun I think. I'm looking at either a 1860 Colt Army or an 1858 Remington (both replicas of course). In addition to which one would you recommend (and why), would you say Uberti or Pietta are the better manufacturer?
Also, what are the "must have" items to get alongside it?
I sadly don't really have anyone to ask and don't know anybody that does it.
My grandpa found this Nikko Stirling Tiara 4x20 scope, but it doesn't seem like it does magnify at all, or maybe 2x. You also have to hold your eye a long distance (about 17cm/6.8") away from the ocular lens to get a clear sight picture.
Pic related is the the Nikko Stirling on the left, and another 4x20 scope I have on the right, both aimed at one of our bird houses from the exact same distance. When measured in an image editing program the front of the bird house is 15 pixels wide with the Stirling and 30 pixels with the other scope.
Does anybody know what the problem might be? And how to fix this?
Did he get it used? Maybe it's a long (or medium) eye relief scope? Might be for a gun where you can't put the scope directly over the action/bolt. Alternatively, make sure all the lenses are in place. I've seen scopes that "work" while the lens on one end of the tube was missing, front or back. You will be able to tell quickly as you'll be able to see internal threads or the tube will be way "deeper" (until the first lens on either side) than it should. Also, I've seen claims that the claims on zoom on different scopes may vary pretty wildly. I believe that was Backfire that said he was doing some testing on modern scopes and was amazed at how wide the difference was between various brands of "4x" scopes.
Sounds like a long eye relief scope, they're typically mounted on pistols or "scout" rifles. It's a fixed low power magnification so you can use it with both eyes open for a better field of view.
>how do riflemen in combat not become deaf from shooting rounds with no ear protection
Pic for reference. Shit like this
They go deaf when they get old. If you were older and white you would have had a living relative who fought in WW2 and he would have been mostly deaf.
Field gun found in Oklahoma city. Has kanji. Is it Chinese or Japanese?
>Is it Chinese or Japanese?
Laotian.
Is gun rope cleaning a meme or does it actually work?
You mean a bore snake? They're really handy for shotguns and pistols, if it's a small bore rifle you're better off just adding a normal pull-through to your rod & jag kit for a "quick touch-up".
>gun jams at a range
>take the mag out
>rack the slide a couple times, ejecting the stuck casing in the process
>with the slide locked back, I put my thumb through the ejection window and down the mag well
>I turn the gun around to look down it's barrel for a lodged bullet before I begin firing again
>my friend I'm at the range with yells at me as well as a patron in the stall next to us yells for me not to do that
>call them morons and tell them it's obviously safe
>they tell me I'm supposed to shine a light down the barrel
What's your preferred method of checking to see if your barrel is obstructed?