Didn't see one in the4 catalog and I have a stupid question:
Is there a difference between AC and DC in terms of the actual energy? For instance if I series'd ten 12v batteries together and added a device to flip the polarity at 60 hz would this run regular 120ac stuff without a inverter?
>Is there a difference between AC and DC in terms of the actual energy?
Yes, in that because sinusoidal AC alternates, the "average" power delivered is at most 1/2 * current * voltage, while DC will steadily deliver current * voltage.
>For instance if I series'd ten 12v batteries together and added a device to flip the polarity at 60 hz would this run regular 120ac stuff without a inverter?
So a square wave AC rather than a sinusoidal wave AC? I don't know shit about this, but here's a random PDF I found online!
https://www.rpc.com.au/pdf/sine_&_square_wave_electricity.pdf
the first harmonic of a square wave has 4/3ths the amplitude of the maximum voltage, so a 3V block wave is comparable to a 4V sine wave
take the fourier transform if you don't believe me, it's fairly easy to calculate and extend to other blockwaves with 0V in between waves
i'm going to correct myself from
https://mathworld.wolfram.com/FourierSeriesSquareWave.html
firstly, the first harmonic is 4/pi, not 4/3
>Yes, in that because sinusoidal AC alternates, the "average" power delivered is at most 1/2 * current * voltage, while DC will steadily deliver current * voltage.
this is correct, technically, but they usually mean the RMS value so that 120V from the grid has an actual amplitute of sqrt(2).120=170V. precicely to get rid of that factor 1/2 in your equation so the AC is just a DC electrical network with RMS voltage instead of actual voltage
for OP's question, assuming the higher harmonics don't interfere too much he's looking at an actual amplitude of 4/pi.120V=153V, 108V RMS value, or 80% of the power compared to the plug
not sure to what degree applications will run on 90% of the voltage it's intended for. shit like powertools presumably won't make that much of a difference but electronics idk
3/5ths, not 4/3rds
>actual energy
I don't know what you mean by this...
I assume that you mean "power" by this.
In which case: no.
Although their ability to deliver power is very different.
>flip the polarity at 60 hz
>without a inverter
That *is* an inverter.
Buy an inexpensive low frequency inverter. No charging system charges 120v DC systems, not anything you'll find off the shelf. Plus, your batteries will fall out of balance in a string. There are balancers for 24v that are robust, but when one cell in one battery starts failing, it will suck down the other battery. Of course this all assumes you are talking about inexpensive lead-acid, which seems to be the case because you are imagining doing it on the cheap.
[Plus, one screw up with your amatuer setup and you will fry yourself.]
Make or buy a robust LFPo storage solution at either 12 or 48v. 24v is sometimes used, and you can find equipment that will handle it. Avoid 36v, too oddball. I think DavidPoz recently built a diy LFPo with... 240 or 280amp-hour cells.
Lead-acid is dead. It was a dumb idea to begin-with. Particularly true for offgrid. Even niche situations with continuous below-freezing temps, can have insulated boxes and a self-regulating heating pad (RV sewer pipe heat pads run at 12v and are thin and stick on). Several batteries are now self-heating. Ampere Time (li time) has an excellent 12v 100ah LFPo with a BMS that can do 300-500amp bursts, perfect for getting rid of that old piece of shit lead-acid. It's like $269 direct.
Save up your pennies and get rid of some stuff, and get a solid foundation on a good battery. Stop messing with lead acid junk. It's inefficient legacy storage designed by morons.
holy frick this board is just shill ads these days
Gotta spend a little money if you want to do it right. If you're a total poorgay mindset then, no. ngmi.
Like this inefficient piece of crap that well power some LED's. Big whoop. And suffer from the imbalance issue, etc. Everything pointed out above.
When you want to graduate - > diysolarforum
>holy frick this board is just shill ads these days
Yup
lead acid+solar charger+diode rectifier=plug and play microcontroller ps with no additional components/voltage regulators/etc. Also under $5 including the mp, battery, and solar cell. Long live lead acid!
as the other anon said, you'd get a square wave rather than a sine wave. it will work for cheap electronics and chargers and stuff, but won't work for things like computers that need a clean power input.
Pretty close. One difference is peak vs RMS voltage.
When we say 120 V AC, we mean RMS volts. AC power is a sine wave of voltage that starts at 0v, rises, hitting 170V at its peak, and then falls again.
The average voltage delivered was equivalent to 120, even though it was 170 at its peak.
For your ghetto inverter, you probably want slightly more peak voltage, but with a gap of zero volts between the pos and neg cycles.
Itll be noisy, but it will work. Old UPSes and shit worked like this.
Buying an inverter is a better value, but if you wanna play around with the idea, it can be done.
Consider using a transformer too. If you find a 120v to 12v old power supply, battery charger or something, you can use jt backwards and send ykur 60hz chopped up sqaure wave 12v back through it.
how do I dye PLA?
>dye PLA?
PLA is hydrophilic, so it will happily absorb your dye solution
of course at that point, you can't print with it
why not paint or color it?
Thanks for the replies I was just trying to understand the physical difference between the energy delivered from AC vs DC systems. I think I do now a bit better.
I am replacing my lead acid batteries for my off grid solar application with lifepo ones since the price has dropped and the lead acids are 4 years old and have cycled every day and are degraded.
I found 100ah 12v lifepo batteries on Amazon for $220 ea shipped I'm ordering 2 soon. My current off grid setup for the last 4 years has been a 24v bank with a buck convertor to step down to 12v that runs mostly native 12v appliances I've stripped out of junked RVs theres a lot of those hiding in the woods around here. I use a small inverter for the rest which is mainly charging a laptop and sometimes a TV/rasp pi media center. I'm hoping it'll run the motor in a 60s wringer washer but I have my doubts, I have a generator if not.
I'm planning on building a battery box for my new lifepo batteries and insulating it with rigid foam insulation and then using a 24v heating pad attached to a aluminum heat sink I have left over from another project to heat the interior of the box controlled by a set point temp controller as it goes below freezing dec-april here.
where would I find large bottles like these locally? don't care if they come empty or with water. just need the bottle and I don't want to buy it off Amazon because they seem kinda expensive at >16€. don't know if I would want a used one either.
forgot image
water store. unironically. brew store if you want a glass one, aka a 'carboy'
>where would I find large bottles like these locally?
locally? go down Elm Street past the Texaco and turn left on Angier Avenue, and go about 3 blocks. There's a small white building where they sell them for $2 each, brand new.
with locally i meant in a physical store, in person as opposed to online. would a hardware store have something like that, would a supermarket have them? I don't know. i bet an office supplier would but there aren't any in my area.
All the physical stores selling them filled with water would be charging the same 16 euro for a deposit.
If you want to dodge the deposit, you need to find one of the operations that does the cleaning and refilling of the used the bottles, and then get some that have reached end-of-life.
These places do exist, though. It's mostly just tap water, so it's the kind of operation that can run in a small industrial park. There will be some in your area.
Walmart
did you miss the € part in that post?
>did you miss the € part in that post?
Sorry. I meant Le Wal'marte.
check catalog next time
I have a Moroccan immigrant coming to live with me
I want to house him in my toolshed
My toolshed is powered by a 10-gauge wire plugged into a normal outlet on my porch
Breaker for said outlet is labeled 20 SWD, which I'm guessing means 20 amps
The wire to the toolshed is 100 feet long. I live at 9000 feet elevation so it gets cold, very cold. I understand that can affect amperage.
My question is, what kinds of things will my immigrant be able to run in the toolshed? If he has a tiny space heater, a lightbulb, and a phone charger going all at once will he burn down my home?
>If he has a tiny space heater, a lightbulb, and a phone charger going all at once will he burn down my home?
space heater 1500W
lightbulb 10-100W
phone charger 1W
#10 wire rated 30A (3600W)
It will be fine.
>plugged into a normal outlet on my porch
The circuit is rated for 2400W, not 3600W. The extra gauge is to account for voltage drop under load. Nevertheless, a constant 13A draw on a 20A circuit is just fine.
>plugged into a normal outlet on my porch
>Breaker for said outlet is labeled 20 SWD
What is the wire in between the breaker box and the outlet?
If it is 12 gauge or thicker you should be fine, but you may need to change the breaker.
SWD means suitable for use as a light switch for office/industrial lighting (frequent use). You don’t need to worry about that.
And finally regarding temperature : https://www.servicewire.com/ServiceWire/Resources/Customer-QA/Cold-Weather-Cable.htm#:~:text=Extreme%20cold%20temperatures%20can%20have,are%20installed%20below%20recommended%20temperatures.
Doesn’t seem like it’ll be a problem either, if the cable is directly exposed to the elements then just verify its integrity once in a while.
You have never dealt with Moroccans I guess. Scum of the earth. Would rob an old grandma for her last penny.
At. Dutch guy living in a city infested with them.
>I have a Moroccan immigrant coming to live with me
you'll regret it
Minkeyroccans always stabbed each others and are at war with other miggies such as algerians and pakistanis
Those 3 are the top of power rankings among criminal migrants that passed through my country during the last migrations
bait
What do I have to do to get my own toolshed immigrant?
You mean you’re gonna live in the shed while he shacks up with your wife. Enjoy the cuck likestyle!
I have a mug that I really want to use daily, however it has a finish that feels rough and makes me shiver every time I touch it, like nails on a chalkboard. I think it's called a matte finish.
How can I apply a glossy finish so that it's smooth and comfortable to hold so I can use this mug every day and love it?
>If I build a shitty square wave inverter which will have an enormous voltage swing from using a stack of batteries instead of a charge pump, can I run AC stuff without an inverter?
No.
My houses siding is some type of stucco. As in I'm pretty sure its cement just thrown on wood. I dont think there's lathe under it. In some spots its even rotting. The effectiveness of the siding isn't the point however. There are trim pieces on the sides of the house for accents.
Now, i'm doing a shed and I want it to match the house. I was gonna do stucco, lathe it, etc (i.e. try to do it right) but by the time the stucco is finished it would be sticking out past the 3/4" trim pieces. Am i thinking of this wrong? How am i supposed to trim siding with stucco without buying niche products such as stucco foam pieces + the adhesive products that go with it.
there should be some wire mesh attached to the wood then stuccoed over, and for the trim just stucco and apply trim board on the corners¿ don't know what your thinking the problem is
What are some things I can actually make with empty soda cans? I feel like I should be able to make a steam engine or something from them, but can't really find plans for such
PrepHole loves making cooking stoves out of them.
Also you can make a steamroller to smoke weed or whatever you want to smoke like a high schooler,
Some of the chisels at Home Depot/Lowes aren’t bad. Nicholson files and rasps and stuff are decent, not 100% on their carving tools. Stanley and Buck Bros will be better than a knife. Lowe’s sometimes has Irwin Marples stuff which is actually pretty good woodworking shit for a home improvement store.
Woodworkers will go full autist though. If it were me, I would get down on the Stanley and Buck Bros and Irwin from the local stores and beat them up for while, by the time you learn what the full autist Youtube guys are using from 1923, hopefully you will learn how to sharpen the chisels properly and will be able to take care of the Gucci and Versace stuff because any dumbass can get something that’s amazing out of the box and totally frick it with a bench grinder.
What about jerky? Can I make it smoke jerky?
I don’t know about that. You could probably boil 2 cups of water though.
where can i buy tools for wood carving, and what tools are more useful? i am just using a knife now, but i need a file to finish some parts, and i just learned there's also rasps and rifflers, i could just buy the first crap i saw on Amazon but i don't trust it, so want to ask if somebody knows what tools could be more useful and where to buy them?
why isn't my wallpaper releasing from the wall despite wetting it down 8 times with hot water over the course of an hour? I've taken off the outer shell and the first layer of paper backing easily but the second paper layer has a deathgrip on the drywall. drywall has a thin layer of paint but in trying to get the second layer off I'm gouging into the sheetrock paper. What do?
>What do?
Step 1: Slap the person that made you think that removing wallpaper was a good idea.
Step 2: Go and get some of the plain wallpaper indented to be pained over.
Step 3: Put up said wallpaper.
Step 4: Paint over that.
Step 5: Go back and slap the person that made you think that removing wallpaper was a good idea again.
what moron told you hot water would remove wallpaper? christ.
how do I stop birds from eating that yellow insulation foam?
good question. Woodpecker does this here, i assume building a nest. i do warning shots with a cheap airsoft pistol and it hasnt come back yet.
Staining rubber with regular wood stain(oilbased), is it possible?
I have a pair of shoes, comfy, but the lower part is colored all gay.
Can I soak some woodstainer and recolor it?
>device to flip the polarity at 60 hz
>without a inverter?
Anon the device that converts DC to AC is the inverter.
Also most consoomer shit will run on DC just as well as AC. We no longer use ac frequency as clock, that was old analogue TVs, clocks with synchronous motors and such boomer tech. AC is used because it makes power transmission possible, not because your end devices benefit from it in any way.
>AC is used because it makes power transmission possible, not because your end devices benefit from it in any way.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yablochkov_candle
>The drawback of using direct current was that one of the rods would burn at twice the rate of the other. This problem was initially solved by preparing the sandwich with one of the rods thicker than the other, but this solution was not practicable. The problem was eventually solved by powering the candles with alternating current which burned the two rods at the same speed.
Lots of switching supplies don't care if their input is AC or DC tho. I've been tempted to use one so I can get by with cheaper wire for solar runs. I.e. Could get dirt cheap 100 amp 12v server supplies for $20 and run 10x 100w solar panels in series and just drop the voltage at the destination.
-at 100 foot wire run you'd need 14 gauge wire @ 140v @ 8.3amps
-at 100 foot wire run you'd need 100x 14 gauge wires @ 14v @ 83 amps
where do i keep my verniers so theyre not always scratching at my body or at risk of breaking? got a workshop job and its been my main source of pain
How do I remove thick dust that has accumulated in my aircon's radiator?
>aircon's radiator
What's an aircon radiator?
post pic
It looks like a heatsink
The filters go over it
They sell tiny babby combs that run through and straighten out the fins while pulling off crap. Vaccuum and spray would work to get the shit off, try not to bash it up.
>How do I remove thick dust that has accumulated in my aircon's radiator?
Vacuum brush. Water can destroy the fan bearings.
How to start do something with my hands?I dont know where to start. Im fckin office worm
My endgoal is build little rocket engine in garage for fun
Well, if that's your particular goal right now, then I guess start by buying model rocket kits.
Practice reusing them by replacing the motors. Practice packing the parachute.
Then get yourself a hot plate and some used pots and pans then practice definitely-not-making-a-bomb in your back yard.
Are there fittings that could split my intake to feed a dishwasher?
Found this literally by going to Home Depot's site and searching for "dishwasher drain:"
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-1-1-2-in-x-8-1-4-in-Plastic-Slip-Joint-Sink-Drain-Tailpiece-with-High-Line-Branch-HDC9818/316622011
Thats a drain not intake.
>Thats a drain not intake.
I assume you're being deliberately obtuse and don't actually believe that the photo doesn't clearly show hot and cold water lines.
Which raises two questions:
Why would someone pretend to be so stupid that they cannot see what's clearly in the photo?
- or, conversely -
Why would someone who is actually so stupid that they can't see the hot and cold water lines even respond to a question in a SQTDDTOT thread in the first place?
You linked to a drain branch. The question was about splitting the feed line.
The poster asked about getting water TO the dishwasher. You posted a link to a drain connection, you nutsack.
https://www.amazon.com/Adapter%EF%BC%8CLead-Free-Splitting-Compression-Outlet%EF%BC%8CBrass-Connector/dp/B09Y9CKQ2G?th=1
I have these security shutters on my balcony behind 3 windows but only 1 of the windows is openable and I can't figure out how to clean the insides of the shutters that face the window from the outside. I can access the windows from both sides as the openable one is the door to the balcony.
I've tried magnets attached to a thin scrubbing sponge and aquarium window cleaners (that have stronger magnets) but both fail due to the space being between the window and the shutters like a pinky finger wide so they get stuck.
Any ideas? Or should I give up and disassemble the whole thing to clean the other side?
compressed air and a vaccuum?
My hot water is getting worse and worse. Does flushing the water heater actually help or am I fricked and need a new one ?
What do you mean worse? Flushing it removes sediment and I think that helps extend anode life which means the tank shouldn’t corrode and leak as quickly, but it’s probably not going to help if you’re getting messed up water temps.
Gas or electric?
Just ain't hot anymore. Gas.
Ehh I’ve messed with electric more.
Flush it and see, it’s easy and free. Maybe you have tons of bullshit on the bottom insulating the water? But the thermostat would probably just keep the flame going longer if that were the case.
Thermostats die though. It’s worth checking that. Troubleshooting basic water heaters is easy, just don’t go crazy with gas lines if you’re inexperienced.
Putting dirty part into a sealed glass jar with acetone and putting the jar in an ultrasonic cleaner filled with hot water.
moronic or genius?
I mean, that's a well-known trick for ultrasonic cleaners, so kinda mid.
Obviously there's a trade-off as the container attenuates the sound waves.
But when it comes to foul solvents like aromatic hydrocarbons, or acids that attack stainless steel, you'd be stupid to just fill the basin with it directly.
Where can I find plans or how can I make my own plans for one of those Japanese baths with a seat in them? So far google has returned nothing except the square ones and they don't have a seat / bench built in and I don't know how to modify the plans so that they do have one because I haven't done much woodworking before.
Is getting your ducts cleaned ever worth it?
Depends how dirty they are. If you never change the filter and have pets and your vents are turning black, sure. If you’re religious with your filters and keep shit clean, then duct cleaning is just another upsell from the HVAC guys. They can get dirty as hell sometimes though.
You mean "worth it to get done professionally," or "worth it to do in the first place?"
>the smell of the heat decomposing the dust in the winter is getting annoying
>someone in the household develops a new allergy and you need to erase any trace of Fido's existence from your home
>your ducts are actually choking with dust and the fan is dying pushing against it
I just installed an electric water heater with 30mm hoses, the bend radius is small, i know, but are they supposed kink like that, or are those hoses just trash?
Btw, I managed to unkink it somewhat using my grips, but they may kink again.
hoses are too short
kink = fatigue = shorter life
Aight, I'll get longer ones and replace them soon™
Btw, do these plastic nuts that came with the heater serve a purpose? They have the same external and internal diameter, so they're not adapters.
Galvanic corrosion probably. 'dielectric nipple'
Welp, I guess I'll have to install them then. Thanks.
>do these plastic nuts that came with the heater serve a purpose?
to designate temperature of port
Red = hot
White (or Blue) = cold
>to designate temperature of port
this too, but they reduce corrosion/increase heater lifespan by breaking the electric path.
Refinishing a dresser, pretty certain the wood is cherry. What's a recommended finish? I've read that cherry can get blotchy with stain so I'm considering linseed or tung oil and wax.
Does anyone know what this style conduit bender is called or have a brand name? Looks far superior to the jig-on-a-stick style ones.
>Looks far superior to the jig-on-a-stick style ones.
try making a 4" radius 90° bend with that
I agree but I need something to easily do wide radius repeatable bends to make hoops for a greenhouse. The guy in the video I screengrabbed does exactly this for a chicken coop in the below video at 28 seconds in. He timelapses it so hard to tell how long it actually takes him but its probably under a minute. The jig exactly fits my needs but I don't have a youtube account to ask him where he got it.
I asked on his channel for you
Here is a video on how to do it with a regular pipe bender
?si=qRxgkRyGXad23rRq
Why are my posts cracking like this?
They are drying.
Rafters separating from ridge board. I don't think general roofers work on this stuff they only do shingles I guess and roof replacements ? Is collar ties the best fix for this or is that just Jerry rigging it? I wouldn't be surprised if the house was made this way due to shoddy construction and I've lived here for five years so far but I've let it go unfixed this long, would appreciate some input.
what is my best option for bending steel tubes?
i am worried picrel is going ot have too big of a bend radius
i want to bend some "1/2" steel tubing to build a rack for my motorcycle. for simplicity i was going to go with 3/32 wall steel of whatever OD will match what these benders want in the 1/2in mandrel.
since its only 1/2in ish 3/32 wall, can i instead use a much cheaper like conduit bender or will it broken?
I dont expect the tightest bends but like smaller is better and it cant really be over 3in or it will look likt shit
How do I clean up soot residue from the edges of a lasercut plywood piece ?
The pipes under my sink are leaking, how much of this looks like it needs to be replaced?
>how much of this looks like it needs to be replaced?
pic related
The basket is stainless. Just wire brush the threads and it should be ok.
A tailpiece gasket goes against the basket and on top of the tailpiece.
When you buy the parts there should be an assembly drawing. If not, check online.
It looks like and should be a compression nut.
Remove the nut and clean the threads. Get a new nut. Don't forget the gasket.
Thanks very much
I’m this guy
This post was very helpful
but when I went to the store I didn’t find a “set” or “kit” that resembled the parts I have to replace (like I did when I replaced some pipes in my bathroom sink) so do I just have to mix and match until I can build something close to pic related, or is that wrong? Is there a best way to do it?
I thought these pieces are cut to length and the fittings are special to allow that.
>so do I just have to mix and match until I can build something close to pic related,
Yes. A more typical configuration of the drain and trap is similar to the attached pic.
The input to the trap is directly under the center of the basket.
I don't know where you are but brass drain plumbing fell out of favor many years ago in the USA.
PVC became the norm due to its low cost, longevity, and ease of installation.
If you have a problem finding the parts to replace it as it is, an option may be to use an extension to move the trap out to the center or use an additional trap as the offset instead of two ells. Though not ideal, sometimes to have to work with what's available.
Took off the really bad bit. Here is where the pipe connects to the sink- salvageable?
And here is where it starts to look less bad, but still not sure if this has the be replaced
Hey, so dumb question.
But I'm essentially looking for something like a tiny projector. I don't need all the features of an actual projector though, I literally just want to be able to project a non-static image.
Basically I was thinking of this thing from years ago that probably never existed, but I just wanted the pen monitor for other purposes. However searching for projectors tends to give you the big bulky things and even the small ones are pretty substantially bulky.
Are steam cleaners worth it?
Can you mix some kind of cleaner in the to be steamed water?
Would want one for carpets and windows mostly.
carpet cleaner machine for carpets/upholstery
cleaners - there are chemicals specifically for them
steam cleaner for non-absorbent materials/surfaces
cleaners - probably but I only know of 30% vinegar
maybe ammonia if you are very carefuly and wear a respirator
Anyone know the name of this style of roof?
This one is hard to categorize so I would either call it segmented half-conical roof or a half bell roof, the fact the post is in the middle makes me want to lean (heh) towards calling it a segmented conical lean-too roof.
This one is a lean-too (or lean-to) roof
What do I do about tree roots in sewer pipes? It's already clogging the line, is my only solution dig up the line and remove it, or pay a plumber six gorillian dollars to do the same thing?
Basically yeah, the pipes are fricked.
To prevent it in the future you'll want to either kill the tree or shape the roots so they go away from your lines, both cost quite a bit.
Thanks anons, home ownership is fricking gay.
got the same thing happening to my drive way, I was quoted about 3k for it though (with the fixed drive way) so it might not be too ridiculous.
but i didn't go through with it yet since its not an emergency, so they might have israeliteed me after the fact.
Last time it happened I was told it would cost thousands, but then they dislodged the rootball so it only cost a few hundred bucks.
Next time my drains are acting up I'll pour agent orange down my toilet.
Yeah, pretty much.
Or take the middle road of doing the ditch-digging yourself and then paying a plumber to fuss over the pipes and make sure they are properly graded.
If you don't want to replace the line right now, rod it yourself or get a plumber to get it flowing again.
Add one pound of copper sulfate crystals either by flushing it down a toilet or adding it at the cleanout.
If you shop around you should be able to find it for less than $10 per pound.
Look for crystals, not liquid or powder. You want them to lodge in the roots still in the line.
Retreat after three months then go on a six month schedule until you decide to replace the line.
< pic related my favorite brand
Has anyone used rustoleum spray paint over E6000 glue? Results?
I just built some outdoor furniture. Reckon I'd be better off painting it or using some kind of clear sealer? I made it out of cheap and nasty pine 2x4s but honestly it doesn't look that bad.
No, because the 120v is the rms voltage, not peak to peak, that's more like 170v, the basically 120 is the average
also that is an inverter, just a shitty square wave one which some devices won't like, like if you ran a fan on that it'll hum loudly
I'm repainting a bedroom and want to get rid of the tacky orange peel texture that it came with. However, the texture is already painted over with latex paint. From what I've read, it's possible to eliminate the texture on a painted wall using drywall mud, but the wall has to be prepared properly first. My research has resulted in the following steps:
>sand wall with 200 grit sandpaper
>clean with TSP
>apply plaster weld
>add superbond to all-purpose joint compound
>apply to wall then use skim blade to push compound into textured surface and flatten
the paint has an eggshell sheen, which from what I can tell won't be a problem. can anyone see any glaring issues in my plan? is there anything else I can do to make sure the mud sticks?
That dust is gonna get in everything everywhere.
Anyone know what screwdriver bit is required for this? I have a star one but it's too big.
that's torx
>I have a star one but it's too big.
Then try a smaller one.
Are you hoping someone will guess the correct size from a photo with no size reference?
T25 is my guess
Just buy a 5$ set of cheap bits. They all have torx nowadays.
This
I recommend going to Harbor Freight or Advance Auto or Amazon and getting down on one of these 100pc bit sets for like $10. The same set is rebranded everywhere, I think HF sells it in a red case but same exact kit.
The same place you dump old tires and car batteries
Somebody must have that old scientific sheet about digging a hole for your used oil.
What are some good ways to reduce mold?
A dehumidifier seems effective, but also expensive to run 24/7. Would a combination of an air purifier and ozone (when there house is empty) be able to deal with the mold?
Ways to deal with this problem have been spraying chemicals on the affected walls every so often and trying to keep the place clean, but the house is old and humidity seems to seep in.
Help! I'm looking for a good guidebook on tying knots. Ideally it would be a pdf I can save and refer back to any time. Plz and thank you anons.
how do I dispose of ~5 gallons of the following
3 parts
>Ethylene glycol
1 part
>Poly(oxy-1,2-ethanediyl), .alpha.-(4-nonylphenyl)-.omega.-hydroxy-, branched
>Sodium xylenesulfonate
>Diphosphoric acid, tetrapotassium salt
>Sodium silicate
it's a heavy duty diesel truck cooling system degreaser made by Cummins
Your city hazard waste dump
I'm trying to hang up some sound dampening foam squares in my room because I'm about to start trying to learn the guitar but I don't want to inconvenience others in my shared household. Problem is, the double-sided tape I have doesn't stick to the foam squares. Can't use glue because I'm renting the room.
My question being, what kind of tape will stick to foam? I just need something to stick onto the foam itself and then I'm gonna use the double-sided tape and just apply it to the other tape. I've been googling but everything I'm reading is saying to glue it to the wall, glue cardboard to the back and use command strips instead, spray the squares with something to make it harden, etc but I'm trying to do this as quickly and simply as possible so I'd rather just go to the store and buy some tape real fast. I just need to know what to get.
None. Get 3M adhesive, stick it to cardboard, then double stick that. Or just nail them into the walls, with nails at a downward angle. Long thin nails, into the drywall is fine.
I'm trying to change direction of a door on my new vivax fridge and the screws are ridiculously tight. getting them out with pliers was a pain in the ass. getting them in is downright impossible. would a torque wrench get the job done or outright break the frickers? also the ones on the bottom barely have any space to speak of. how was this even screwed in the first place? with a giga Black person robot screwer?
>torque wrench
Wut?
Why don’t you get a ratchet and a socket that will fit on em? Or go work on your gainz and get those b***hes loose with a nut driver. If they’re so tight that they break, they’re going to break any way you try to remove em.
>a ratchet and a socket
to be frank I'm horrible with tools name so thanks for this.
>Or go work on your gainz and get those b***hes loose with a nut driver.
I wish I wasn't lazy...
>If they’re so tight that they break, they’re going to break any way you try to remove em.
how fricked am I if I do break them? it makes me wonder if epoxy could hold shit in place because the door is pretty small and light so it shouldn't be a big deal.
more importantly what are the odds of the screws breaking in the first place? would be lovely if anyone in here has experience with changing directions on fridge doors.
Check the size of those screws. That’s a 1/2” drive ratchet, which is quite large. You probably want a 1/4” (small size) drive or at minumum a 3/8” (medium size) drive. Those sheet metal screws normally are like 1/4” or 5/16” hex, which are going to be smaller sockets. Maybe they’re metric like 6mm or up to 3/8”/10mm, which would generally be included with a basic 1/4” drive socket set.
Are you spinning the screws the right way? You shouldn’t be breaking the screws like that with no rust or anything, especially sheet metal screws.
Also if I was doing that and it somehow broke, it wouldn’t be the end of the world. If you somehow couldn’t get the broken part of the old screw out, you could likely drill a couple pilot holes somewhere else on the hinge (that left pic even has slots where you could do it) and then sink a couple fresh sheet metal screws in there. It wouldn’t look perfect, but those fasteners are typically hidden by a plastic cap or something on fridges.
finally got the time to update with great success, thank you, fellow PrepHoleers! god this tool rocks, best 20 bucks spent in years!
Good job. Glad nothing broke. Soon you will be one of us.
Is this the worst board on PrepHole? I can't think of another board with such a high ratio of posters that have absolutely no knowledge of the board topic. No offense to anyone in this thread since this is the place to be humble, but the entire board feels like a sqtddtot
No. PrepHole is worse. Try asking for car repair advice there, it will be worse than the advice you get on PrepHole even though PrepHole is a much faster board. More people on the slow board PrepHole own a car than the fast board PrepHole.
Any ideas as to what to use as a temporary fix for an oven door that won't remain closed?
Does a conveniently heat-resistant belt or something similar exist? (pic-related for the idea, it would be great if there was something to wrap around the oven to ensure the door remains closed and once moved up a little the door can be opened)
Anyone here has any experience with printing on textiles? need a quick pointer on where/what to begin looking.
are reel mowers a meme? they seem kinda comfy. what's a good one i can buy on amazog?
I picked up a nice branch in the woods the other day because I thought it had attractive heartwood, and I'd like to whittle and/or sand it into a cane.
However, unlike the last time I did this, this one did not have a convenient handle-shaped bend near the top. I could simply round off the top, but I don't think that would be very comfortable to use.
I have a box of old animal bones I've found over the years (large animals, like cows/hogs) and I was thinking I might make a simple handle in the shape of pic related out of bone.
My question is this: How does one work with bone? They're already stripped of all tissue and are completely dry, but can I just cut/sand it like I would wood? Polish it like stone? I know bone can be polished to a shine, but I don't know how that's actually done. I don't think I need to bleach them - while they aren't pearly white or anything, I think they're white enough.
Also, what would be the best way to affix it to the wooden shaft of the cane once complete? Big metal bolt and epoxy or something like that? Or make threads in it and screw it on?
would trying to "build" a solder pot by using the concave underside of a coke can and putting it over a tea light work? I just want to strip/tin very thin enameled wire
now that i think about it, would setting wire i want to strip in molten solder work? the solder would obviously get all full of dross but then just wiping the wire clean and applying flux should make it ready to solder, right? would that be easier than using shitty wire strippers?
I've heard working bone is a lot like working that shitty foamy blended wood product except it's actually quite hard so it chips easily if you aren't gentle.
and by foamy wood I don't mean mdf, more like the shit bendy pencils are made of that's a continuous blended mass of fibre.
What type of connector is this?
Nevermind, it's a dupont mx2.54 4 pin
why do gear teeth have are tapered in at the edges? what happens if I don't replicate it?
Breaking the sharp corners prevents them from breaking when the gears are meshed ruining the drive.
Improves energy transfer and reduces noise
that's for teeth that are at an angle like so
don't assume because those straight cut teeth themselves have bevels that it's a beveled gear. it makes you look like a fricking chatbot
He's right though, the involute tooth profile improves energy transfer by keeping the point of contact at a constant radius
the bevels on
don't make it constant, and that's what a beveled gear is for. knocking off a bit of the sides on straight cut gears is just for reliability since the corners can get worn down or snap off so beveling that way reduces the likelihood of that (and thus of little shards of metal getting caught in there fricking around)
stop being a chatgpt bot and go rampant, gain true sentience NOW
Pretty clearly if you look at the picture hes asking about the edges on the circular face of the gear the breaking iof which doesnt impact gear meshing whatsoever.
Middle 9f the tooth is supported on both sides, edge of the tooth obviously unsupported on one side, under load might break off. Its cut to even the stresses on the tooth so it doesnt break.
Depends what forces are involved, what you are driving with the gear, what material the gear is, whether it's necessary or not.
It's the kind of thing you either simulate in 10k$ worth of software OR a hundred years ago start doing as a trial and error after your windmill explodes. It's not something you just do on a whim for a laugh, so it's difficult to just say yes or no when asked on a forum with no context.
Someone probably found their straight cut gears were shearing off/wearing at the edges of the teeth but would stop wearing at a certain point, and figured "what if I just cut it like that in the first place?" back in like 1109 or whatever
>energy transfer and reduces noise
that's for helical gears.
What's a good basic program for just doing up the schematics for a van I'm converting. Is CAD 'too much' or just right?
Need a shitty 300W inverter so I can use a home speaker system in my car. BestBuy and Autozone want 60 bucks, but I can get a shitty chinese one on ebay for 20. Never really fricked with anything electrical, any way to tell if the Shenzen Special actually makes enough juice? I figure the spec sheets in the description are just outright lies.
Also what's the chance that I frick up my alternator with this kind of power draw? Probably won't stop me from trying but I want to know whats in the beehive before I kick it
I think those cheap inverters give some dirty power, do a little googling and see how stereos like that run on a not-sine wave. Also you’ll probably drain your battery first if the alternator can’t keep up, so keep jumper cables nearby.
Is "converting" a normal bicycle into an "ebike" a thing? I've seen some kits with Hub Motors (not pic) bit it's all Chineseium.
Genuinely unsure what the process here is, would it make more sense to mount the motor on the back or front Hubs?
Do you need a Dynamo Hub to charge it? What about regenerative breaking?
I've had friends attemp conversions with little success. Seems like the effort is better spent on refurbishing "broken" ebikes. Yuppies will put them up on craigslist for cheap if the hub starts acting funny.
That being said you could just put a Ryobi weed whacker motor onto a sprocket similar to a gas bike kit
does anyone know if you can apply gelcoat to a mould, leave it overnight, and apply the fibreglass layers the next day? or will that be too late?
and one more thing - when spraying clear coat on carbon fibre parts, is there any way to stop the clear coat can from "expiring" within 24 hours?
do they make tiny cans or something because i don't want to pay $40 every time i want to clear coat a small thing
>i don't want to pay $40 every time i want to clear coat a small thing
Small container of clear coat
Matching container of activator
Mix amount required when need arises
Reseal containers
Use a hobby-grade airbrush to clearcoat small parts
Clean airbrush for next use
Context: van converison solar
Any of you guys know what happens if your solar wattage isn't twice the Ah of your battery? I'm thinking of getting one 300ah 12v lifepo4 and the max panel I can get right now is 450w. Does that just mean it can't replenish the battery enough or will it cause issues? I want the 300ah so I can slowly build up a big battery bank of 300ahs and will aim for 600w solar when I can source it per battery, but can't right now.
The reason for wanting big battery bank is I just want to add in more and more appliances and electronics over time as I slowly do it up, so I know I'll need a lot eventually
I think the ratio of panel wattage to battery Ah is simply "can you reasonably recharge the entire battery in day?"
>300 Ah @ 12v is 3,600 Wh
>3,600 Wh / 600W is 6 hours
>3,600 Wh / 450W is 8 hours
But since solar energy fluctuates as the sun moves across the sky, I imagine you'd only charge the battery about 75% of the amount a 600W panel would in a single day. Might not even be an issue in summer months with the longer daylight.
Well my draw is going to be quite small at the start so I guess it's really not an issue until later and by then I'll have another panel.
Thanks for the insight
Trying to wrap my head around an 18650 battery project safely...
5S Batteries in a pack for 18V/3.4Ahr
3 packs in Series for a row, 15S for 54V/3.4Ahr
Putting 2 rows in parallel, 15S2P for 54V/6.8Ahr
This is correct right?
Also, it's important that the Rows come apart (for a total of 6 Packs). This is an air freight requirement (<100Whr, 1 pack is 61Whr)...
Is there a way for me to keep the 6 packs connected and charge them all together?
It'd be easy to connect a Battery Charge Controller, then charge the packs individually... But I want to somehow have the BCC charge all the batteries at once.
Modularity is really hard.
Sounds about right
That’s going to be a complicated charging system though, you need balancing wires for every set of cells in series though. I guess you could have a bunch of 5s packs in parallel and charge them at 21V or whatever the charging board wants. But then when you go to series the 18V packs up to get yout 54V, not sure how that works. Find out how DeWalt does the Flexvolt packs, or build a big 18V pack or parallel up a few 5s packs and step up the voltage later like a boost converter depending on current draw
Maybe it'd be easier to have each pack have it's own BCC then charge them in parallel
Issue with that is when they're combined,. I wonder if it'd be an issue with the packs themselves not having a BCC... Or if you can add a BCC to balance the Packs as a whole, which then lead to the BCC of the individual packs for cell balancing
Can I overdry pepper seeds so they wont work? CaCl2 is in oven, needs to be used to prevent fungus for export
trying to replac exterior doors. how do i measure how deep it is to the subfloor without ripping up the flooring
What's a good way of removing burnt crap from a heating coil? Tried acetone, alcohol, ultrasonic, and TSP with limited effect.
It's too small and fragile to clean it with a copper brush.
sandblast?
What's the general level of ability needed to perform maintenance on a sailboat? I can do most house maintenance tasks, though I hesitate when it comes to electrical and plumbing work. I'm mostly wondering how maintaining a boat compares to home maintenance and remodeling. Just how badly does being in the water (not frozen) during winter frick up a boat?
Whatever happened to Bunkeranon? Did he finally fix up that old facility and seal himself away from the normies?
This old book's cover is falling appart (the leather is fine though). I thought about ripping off the remaining cover, buying marbled paper, cutting and gluing it on the bare cover.
I've never done any book binding.
Is it as easy as I picture it to be?
What book is it
It's about political events in some french towns during the 1870 war.
Pretty beat up except for the middle pages.
Is the cover board itself falling apart or just the paper on the front? I would avoid removing it if possible. If it's just the paper, you can carefully remove just that layer and recover it.
It's just the paper on the front (and back), the cardboard behind is still good.
Sorry if that wasn't clear: I only intend to remove and replace the paper layer.
what kind of abrasive can remove powdercoat?
it is only a few small spots where rust has form that need to have powdercoat removed for surface prep, i'm not trying to strip the whole piece, which is a welded frame member
a torch is also not favorable as its right near various plastic, rubber, wires, power steering reservoir, battery, etc.
If I'm making a large patch with fiberglass cloth, should I make each layer a single large cut of cloth or should I make each layer out of smaller pieces and overlap them?
I'm making a fiberglass patch for the floor of my car and it's the first time I've ever worked with fiberglass. I made this oversized patch by layering 4 pieces of fiberglass cloth directly on top of each other alternating 45 degrees each layer. It isn't as thick or rigid as I'd like so I've roughed up the bottom by sanding and I'm planning on adding more layers.
I want to put an Ikea billy bookshelf in front of my little den in place of a door/curtain.
What's the cheapest and easiest way to open and close the entranceway like that? Carpet sliders under the bookshelf?
Pic related is the doorway. The billy bookshelf is pretty much the exact dimensions to cover it.
no one
really
How do you guys store all your screws and variety of things? I just bought a little cabinet with 40 something drawers but I'm thinking I want more
grid organizer boxes are lifesavers for screws, unless you have industrial quantities of each size
Can i make a thread about weed growing on this board??
where should i go to read about off-grid/backup solar battery setups? Would like to get an idea of different costs and components. Don't necesarily want an off-grid setup but somethingr grid-complementary which would allow me to endure outages for a week.. lights, water pump simple stuff.
anyone experienced with metal polishing? I'm trying to get some silver to be mirror polished and can't get the last bit of scratches out. it looks great except when you catch it at the right angle and all the scratches hit the light.
I'm using diamond lapping paste up to 200,000 grit with a wool cloth. my assumption is that the cloth might be doing the last bit of scratching, so I'm thinking of getting some chamois leather because I read somewhere that that's less abrasive
pic related, the best I could photograph. it looks a bit worse in person
Polish in a circular motion instead of straight strokes, use softer cloth.
if I do circular motions I just end up with these exact same marks but in circles
and that makes them even more obvious since the circles can catch the light at any angle
do you have a recommendation for softer cloth?
The light switch in my apartment bathroom has the light and the vents conjoined so I can't just turn one of them on. There's a second switch but it does nothing. How hard is it to take the plate off and move the vent controls to the unused switch? Would I need to turn off the circuit breaker to be safe?
frick r*ddit
anybody know of an engraver/site that can do zippos? Everything I'm seeing is just lasering but I want deeper, chisel through metal, engravings as groomsmen presents
Haven't had anything done recently but in the past I took items to a israeliteeler to have them engraved.
What are some good books on the history of traditional arts, crafts and trades?
To give an idea
Currently I'm interested in israeliteellery and book binding
How do i go about adding a plaster finish on an interior cinderblock wall that's already painted? Can i just sand the paint layer a little bit so the the plaster will hold?
I have a strange sort of 'toe touch' bath drain in the place I just moved to. The one in the master bath wouldn't click into lowered position, but the second bath one would. Was planning on just swapping the good one into the master bath for now but I don't see how to do so without fricking the mechanism. Got the one from the master bathroom out with some pliers but it chewed the shit out of the plastic. How are you suppose to take these out? Whoever installed them torqued them very hard.
I'm replacing a drip coffee maker tubing. 2 hoses have the same dimensions that should fit but one is classified as food safe and the other is not.
>70A durometer vs 50A durometer (food safe)
>10 psi @ 72F vs 5 psi @ 72F (food safe)
Do these differences seem like they would matter? I think the first tube is the one used originally but I would feel better having a food safe one.
Soldering bros, wtf is this "hot air gun" that this guy is using to repair his Yeti mic port?
hot air rework station pretty common for heating up some but not all pads at once, makes ic removal a breeze. well, smd.
Hot air gun with attachments
>have a Cadillac Deville 2003
>leaks oil
>narrowed it to likely be oil level sensor or filter adapter
>could be oil pan or crank case (but read that produces a slower leak)
My question, if i switch from 5w to 10w do you think i would get less leakage? Or would it be negligible? I might just try it anyway but wanted someone to call me moronic first.
I need to make some challenge coins in aluminum and brass. I have a large gantry mill cnc I will be using that is up the task. But I don't have a great way to knurl the sides of the coin.
I have a wood lathe. Think I could get away with holding a lathe knurling tool up to aluminum and brass blanks by hand and get semi decent knurls? I've cut small bits of aluminum on my lathe before without issue.
So do why so many people hold an acetylene torch against metal why adjusting the gas?
It's getting cold out, so I was thinking of ways to make my wood stove more efficient, would putting a large silver heat sink in front of one of those stove top fans improve it any significant amount?
From what I understand, silver is about twice as efficient as aluminum, so I guess it would be more cost effective to buy more fans.
Do the fans actually do anything? If they do, is there a point of diminishing returns where it's not worth adding more fans?
Fans won't make the stove more efficient unless you mean to add a blower to stoke fire. Moving the hot air away from the stove to colder areas is a good idea and can be done with any normal fan. I think you were referring to the meme convection fan that is powered by the heat, only benefit of that might be quieter than an electric fan
I need tips on getting this washer bearing out, the sucker is rusted solid in there
Is it pressed inside plastic? Do you need to reuse the plastic part? If not, heat that b***h up and pry it out as soon as the plastic starts to get soft.
Yeah I need to keep the plastic in 'ok' shape, it's the outer drum for the washer. It is pressed in but technically the only thing holding it on should have been a small screw, already removed. Accumulated rust and debris is what's got it now.
Like anon said, you could do the slide hammer if you think the automotive style would fit. Otherwise you could do a heat gun or hair dryer and see if you can get the plastic warm enough to expand a little and let the bearing out.
Bearing puller slide hammer. Some car part stores will lend them to you no charge.
Grocery store?!?
>Grocery store?!?
That's a Wal-Mart. Most sell groceries.
So I guess "yes" is the answer to your question.
And congratulations on asking the stupidest question in the entire stupid question thread
It was a reply, meant to
. Did you enjoy your little ego trip?
>Did you enjoy your little ego trip?
I did.
I'm happy to see you're still putting stupid questions in their correct thread, too.
I plan on putting in insulation in the red areas of pic rel to make my attic office and the room below warmer in the winter. what orientation should the fibers and vapor moroner face?
>what orientation should the fibers and vapor moroner face?
vapor barrier faces living area
So I want to make an adjustable stand for my drawing tablet. I'd like it to hang off the edge of my desk about midway and hold the tablet in a portrait orientation (I already have a stand for landscape that sits on top of the desk.) I'd like for it to adjust tilt-wise, but be able to lock pretty solidly into the angle once i've found a comfortable angle. I also do not want it permanently attached to the desk, so maybe something with clamps? Any ideas? Hopefully the drawing helps in a way.
Gonna DIY a new trunk floor for my car out of plywood and thin carpet. What would be the most effective way to stick the two together? I don't want to use a staple gun, cause that would be visible in the final product.
You stretch the fabric over the back a d staple gun it there.
But okay, 3m spray super adhesive 77
It's like contact cement in a can
Yeah I was gonna wrap around and staple but unless I put it under insane anounts of tension that my onions wrists can't muster it'd still be able to pull up from the plywood. Thanks, I'll look into that super 77.
I am having to fix the downspout here - running standard size tubing into a 10.2cm connector then out the other size.. its doesnt seem to be fitting perfectly nad im getting osme leakage.
It there a tape/wrap i can use to seal up the downspout/drainage connectors so they dont drip - thats not permanent like glue ?
What's the expected voltage (AC RMS) from the subwoofer output on an average aftermarket car radio?
Subwoofers in my car are working intermittently. When they aren't working, I checked that the sub amp had the correct voltage at the rail (it was good, lights even turned on) and that the RCA cable going to the amp didn't have an open in it (DMM showed direct short from end to end).
I attempted to measure the voltage outputted from the RCA connectors on the unit, and only measured <20 mVrms with the radio playing music at 3/4 volume. Seems low to me, maybe indicating the radio itself is bad (it's some POS I bought 8 years ago).
Is that voltage low? Otherwise any other ideas?
Measuring from the amp the sub the rca should be 8 or 9 ohms, if you have an 8 ohm sub. The wire might be a few ohms but you shouldn't have 0 ohm. That's a damaged wire. Verify by removing the sub and Measuring the rca with nothing on it, the amp or the sub.
You could also use an alligator clip wire or something to wire up a dead short on the wire and verify its not broken/open either
>What's the expected voltage (AC RMS) from the subwoofer output on an average aftermarket car radio?
A couple of volts with volume at max. (~2 to 4 volts)
Years ago, 1 volt was considered nominal.
Like everything else, it keeps going up.
Is that the voltage on all the rca connections? Or just sub. Are you checking voltage in AC with sinewave playing?
I have a couple pairs of nylon cargo pants that are great except that things like dog hair and woodland debris stick to them readily. Is there anything I can coat them with that will make it harder for things to stick to them?
Get a lint roller nyukka
easiest way to remove hard water stains?
picrel
CLR
doesnt work Black person
That pic is pretty intense, but general tile and tub cleaner, the aerosol cans of Scrubbing Bubbles have worked best for me. Not the spray bottles, the cans are better. There’s a purple Oxi can of bathroom cleaner that is pretty good too, but I’ve never dealt with rust stains that bad.
How would I best go about fixing this? Doesn’t have to be secure, it’s the door to the garage and the garage door is a locking insulated door.
Basically I got locked in the garage and kicked the door open.
Clamp, glue, hammer, reinstall plate? Does anyone make just like a tack on sheet metal thing for this situation to give the cosmetic panels a bit more strength?
Drill pilot holes through loose pieces
Squeeze wood glue into cracks
Drive suitable-sized nails into the frame closing the cracks.
Wipe excess glue away.
After 24 hours reattach the strike plate.
instructional pic attached
Should I Itasha my new-to-me snowblower or should I Itasha my new-to-me snowblower?
Do you have the missing parts? A snow discharge chute might be a universal part, and the cylinder head shouldn't be too hard if it's a common enough engine.
It doesn't look too rusty so it might be worth fixing.
What else is missing from the engine? Fuel tank ... I dunno ... if you're planning on using it in the next couple months you better get to work finding the missing parts.
Yeah this was just taken after i finished a bit of disassembly. It did fire up but ran a bit rough. Nothing missing, just the carb was loose and cylinder dirty from the bad carb seal. Started sandblasting priming and painting of steel parts, ordered a gasket set and carb rebuild kit.
Any thoughts on how to paint the cylinder head? The paint that was on there was flaking off. Not sure what would be durable enough
*shears*
REEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE
What should I use to coat this brass sink to protect the patina?
Would pic related be good for redoing a floor? Looking for normie xmas gifts. Parents are rolling new hardwood. Looks S tier to me.
I want to refurbish some m16 magazines. I used paint stripper to get the old paint off (someone rattlecanned them). What kind of prepping should I do to make sure the paint sticks? And what kind of paint should I use? I don't want to just spray rustoleum on it and call it a day. I want some good shit that will stay on. Preferably cheap stuff, but I'm willing to shell out on some good paint if it's worth it. I want to do more of these
Steel wool on the mags, remove dust, clean with an evaporative degreaser, acetone etc. You can absolutely you rustoleum shit, it's all about the layering and being patient with the layers. Just do 4 light coats, waiting 15 to 30 minutes between
I always thought you'd have to wait at least an hour or so between layers? I mean if I wait longer it's not going to hurt nothing right?
Either 15 minutes or 24 hours. Once it's past the tacky stage you're better off waiting until it's fully cured and giving a light sand before applying another coat
Brownells sells some nice epoxy paint that gun cleaning solvent does not frick with. Learn the wisdom of gun coating and if you must ask PrepHole about guns goto /k/ at least.
https://www.brownells.com/tools-cleaning/paint-metal-prep/paint-finishing/aluma-hyde-ii/
Dood, do you hate the OP? Solvents destroy my beloved Rustoleum which is why it doesn't go on my mags. I use their products on damn near everything else tho.
i've not used alumahyde 2 but it's about as good as you can get out of a spray can. i'd feel confident using it
It's a fricking mag, who cares? Hit it with a scotch brite pad, blast it with brake cleaner, and give it two coats of whatever flavor kryloleum you're craving that day.
I wanna build a deck. I feel confident in everything except attaching the deck to the house. But do I have to do that? Could I basically do pic-related, but just add extra footings next to the house instead of attaching it to the house? It would be the same as building a raised platform away from the house, but it would just be right next to the house.
It makes sense to me but if it's that easy then why doesn't anybody else do it? Everybody always attaches it to the house which just sounds hard.
inb4 "im not shopping for u" but where the hell do you get cheap security torx drivers?
Alternatively, is there a way to easily drill them out but not destroy the shitty plastic housing they're invariably in? I have a dremel and the pretty standard bits. I want to modify an XBone controller without melting half the fricking thing as I drill it.
Temu or aliexpress is probably close to as cheap as they get. Pic related
>Temu
Spyware shill pls go
Pic related is good to have around. I think I bought this near the checkout at Advance Auto Parts for $9-$10, Harbor Freight sells the same shit in a red box, and I’m sure a million Amazon and Ebay vendors sell it. Search “100pc Security Bit Set” and you will find them.
Why is there such a huge price discrepancy between some 12v batteries. Looking at 300ah they can range from $500 to $3000. Is there much of a difference or things I should be looking out for? Context is diy van camper conversion solar.
>muh camper van
shut up
thanks for the help
Sent from my Camper VanPhone
I don't know anything about building houses, I'm just looking for reasons to complain about these out of state developers ballooning thr pricing floor for housing here. Is this bad so I can complain about it?
It doesn't matter what the trusses look like; if they're built to approved standards (which just means that a PE or approved designer has signed off on them) then they're going to be to code. If it wound up being a problem later, then you can sue the truss manufacturer at that time. Until that time you're just going to be a baby for trying to reject them.
You're not going to be looking at the rough bits once they're installed in your attic or floor, so the only reason to find fault with them should be a complaint about their fitness to fulfill their structural purpose.
I want to add some grip to an e-reader, and while I could just use some gaffer tape, I wonder if there's anything out there that's lighter with a better grip surface to it. I don't want something as grippy as sand paper, but I want a comfortable level, you know?
I have this AC that does not drain at all, when i turn it on it splashes everywhere or leaks from the back around the fins. I thought it was clogged but its not. Am i supposed to tilt it towards the window or something? the drain is to the right of the bolt anchoring the compressor
The unit should be sloped slightly down so that condensation runs to the condenser/rear of the AC. If water is splashing everywhere when you turn it on, then usually that means that the tips of the fan blades are hitting the water level. Also, if the water level is high enough that it is leaking through the fins rather than through the drain hole, then something is clogged somewhere.
If the drain holes aren't clogged, then make sure the passages/channels in the bottom of the casing through which the condensation is supposed to move aren't blocked up.
If there's a 1/4" of standing water in the bottom of the unit, then there's either a problem with the slope or with free passage to the drain holes.
thats what i dont get, i checked for clogs and have cleaned them out on other similar (older) units. Also the drain tray is pristine water, water never made it to the drain ever. As far as level goes, i started off tilted away, then leveled flat figuring the overflow would goto the drain or something. It is like there is no connection from the pan to the drain, Im confused obviously
Some units don't have a drain and use the condenser fan as a 'slinger' to splash the water on the condenser coil to aid in efficiency. If you can see a ring around the blades of the fan, that's the splasher ring.
How do I into soldering? Local Community College? Books? Youtube videos? Keep in mind this is mainly for hobby (and personal repair) purposes.
soldering wires? just get and old circuit board and try to mimic the soldering, once you do, your work will be very good. and watch youtube
>and watch youtube
This old 1960s video series from Pace Worldwide is my favorite.
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Then buy a good soldering iron, flux, solder, snips, and a cheap "diy" kit off amazon.
I bought a little christmas tree that had like 50 LEDs and other components that had to be soldered onto the circuit boards ... it's a good way to spend a couple evenings and practice.
using a shitty iron is immensely frustrating for a beginner. You don't have to spend a ton to get a decent adjustable temp, thermostatic iron these days. I recommend some type of hakko clone from amazon or similar (~50$).
I'm a boomer though, and I've heard that those types of stations are outdated and that the TS100 type irons are a better choice for beginners these days. IDK.
Another thing that helps is getting some no-clean flux that you can drench your joint in.
Watch some youtube videos and away you go.
Any chance this thing can cut aluminium? Copper? Maybe even steel if I go slow enough with enough coolant? Nobody locally sells end-mills locally and I want to get into using my new mini CNC router. I can get a solid carbide router bit, which I think should work on metal, but it's only in the one shape.
>Any chance this thing can cut aluminium? Copper? Maybe even steel if I go slow enough with enough coolant?
Not for long.
It will deliver the same amount of power to ohmic loads like heaters, probably brushed motors too but idk they're not completely ohmic.
Things that have SMPSs will be running at a lower voltage than they normally do, but they can almost always operate a fair bit lower than their intended voltage, so I suspect they'd be fine. I often see them say "100-250V" on the label, in this case 100Vrms = 141Vpk, so you might maybe need to use 141 volts DC instead.
Anything that wants a pure sine wave is fricked, that said I have a suspicion that the PFC circuitry inside some SMPSs might handle a rectified square wave (i.e. DC) just fine. Assuming it tries to boost the input voltage up to its peak value, it would always be at its peak value and so it would just not do anything. But it might not give a power-good output.
A conventional modified sine would actually be worse, since the gaps in the middle of 0V would make wide spikes between the rectified peaks.
Take the HVDC pill and wire up 120VDC to a bunch of (specially keyed) wall outlets. Inverters are for plebs.
My ceiling fan won't stop making clicking noises
I've tightened the screws as hard as I could but it just won't stop
It’s not the chain from the pull cord whacking it, is it? How unbalanced is it?
It’s not hard. There’s a bunch of beginner projects you can buy, but you can practice with any wires or circuit board and git gud with flux and temps and making good joints. I got to passable joints fast enough.
Working with a $25-$40 Amazon iron with temp control is going to be a lot better than the cheap ass $6 Harbor Freignt or Walmart iron.
What do you mean by chain from the pull cord?
It's a ceiling fan
I have a AC box cage that I’m trying to cold-proof. Behind the door is a 2” XPS foam panel that blocks most of the cold air directly but now I have these gaps around the door panel edges. In the past I just use duct tape but is there a smarter way to seal?
Wall faces west so I get heavy winter winds blowing this way and this room has been cold every winter. I’m also renting so I can’t do any major changes
Use Gardner Bender Duct Seal, DS-110. It will seal any surface, doesn't stain, and you can easily remove it later without any tools.
what grit of sandpaper should I use on formely rusty steel which I've brushed/ground down to bare metal and will be prepping for repainting?
this is tubular steel, the final appearance doesn't matter
If appearance doesn't matter, just paint after wire wheel
I have a gas water heater where the pilot light won't stay lit. At first I thought it was probably the thermocouple thingy gone bad and replaced it. It still blows out.
Then I realized it was blowing out while heating water. If I set the thermostat to "off", the pilot light stayed on all weekend. Once it started heating water, it blew out in like 15 minutes. Could it be a bad burner?
But here's the thing I need to ask. A while back the cover to the vent pipe fell off. It was still a while before the pilot light started blowing out, but could that have caused the problem?
I haven't put the lid back because it's up too far for me to reach, and the roof is a 45 degree slope. I would need one of those bendy ladders that can go 10 foot up and 6 foot over. I'm going to get someone to put it back up there, but I'd like to know if that could cause the pilot to blow out.
I would say it's incredibly unlikely for air to flow back down that tube and put out what should be a fully lit gas burner, the cover is just to stop rain from getting in. Hard to say what's causing the problem though.
>I'd like to know if that could cause the pilot to blow out.
It can cause the pilot to suffocate.
I've seen leaves, birds, and other debris clog an open vent. The pilot doesn't need much air flow to survive. When the burner comes on, it needs a lot of air to remain burning. It's possible the burner and pilot are both going out at the same time.
Check that the vent is clear before replacing the cap.
Another problem that can arise is a reduction of the pilot flame size due to buildup of uncombusted particles in and around the pilot jet.
To check for this, light the pilot, close the access door, and watch the pilot flame as you adjust the thermostat to cause the main burner to ignite.
If the pilot pulls away from the thermocouple while the main burner is on it's likely beginning to clog or you have draft issues.
Depending on the model of water heater, you may not have a viewing port. Do the best you can.
Also, some control valves have a pilot flame adjustment screw under a small threaded cap. You may be able to correct the flame size without having to remove and clean the pilot assembly.
>Check that the vent is clear before replacing the cap.
There's about 2 feet of bendy pipe above the water heater, and I lifted the pipe above that. I could see sunlight on my hand, then used a mirror to see a perfect circle at the top. So at least that much of it is clear.
The original burner didn't look too bad, and I'd rather not mess with that if I don't have to, but I still think I could replace it since I had to take it out to swap the thermo. It's just a lot of fiddly that makes me thankful that it's not in the attic.
I didn't see soot on the burner last time I was in there, but I didn't know what else to look for.
>Also, some control valves have a pilot flame adjustment screw under a small threaded cap.
You mean the control valve on the body of the water heater? It's a State GS640YBRT4 if that helps. Here's a picture of the bottom of the control box (the one with the actual gas valve) When doing goggle searches about pilot lights I never saw anyone mention an adjustment on that, and I don't see anything in the instructions manual.
>It's a State GS640YBRT4 i
This unit has a piezo igniter for the pilot.
You can watch the pilot through the view-port as mentioned above.
>watch the pilot flame as you adjust the thermostat to cause the main burner to ignite.
>If the pilot pulls away from the thermocouple while the main burner is on it's likely beginning to clog or you have draft issues.
Check how the pilot flame reacts when the burner is running.
Why is building your own home considered a more expensive option? I want a place to live, and live in an area with lots of cheap land. I was looking at building metal/barndo style house but everything I find online says building is really expensive. Should I just wait until the economic slump and exploit the cheap labor and materials?
How good is fiber cement siding in a humid environment (humid summers and getting wet from sprinkler system)? I'm in the Northeastern US in New England. I'm fixing up my shed and need to apply new siding since the vinyl is cracking and stuff.
>getting paranoid about home intruders
Any basic tips for setting up security lights and other deterrents? I’m hoping for a relatively cheap setup that isn’t total crap; anything to make them think twice before it’s either me or them getting blasted.
How would I go about making something like this to cover my sump? Its approximately 2' x 2' hole in the concrete of my basement floor, and I want to be able to walk down there without falling in one day
I'd rent some kind of concrete router to put a lip around the hole, then buy an off the shelf cover of the appropriate dimensions.
So I just measured the hole - it WAS a perfect 24" square until the wienersucker PO decided to tear up one edge of it for some unknown reason - he expanded it to roughly 24" x 26" with a jagged edge from whatever moron tool he was using. Seriously frick that moron, if he had left it 24" square I could have bought a 24" galvanized grate with a lip from amazon for $100 and been done with it. Now I have to figure out how to get it to dimensions they actually make one for.
Use a piece of plywood or something similar that is 2 feet long and the depth of the jagged area as a concrete form.
Cut 2x4s to the length required (2' - thickness of form material.
Mix concrete patch and pour into form to repair damaged area.
Use oil or grease on the concrete side of the form so the fresh concrete doesn't stick to the form.
Im thinking about getting a grate with a cast-in frame maybe 18"x18" and just shrinking the hole. Or I could do a 24" one and just demo some concrete around the hole and re-cast it. I dont want to do just a patch since I dont want it to fall apart later on
I found better ones for sale Im not going to bother making one, especially since I want it to be flat on top and level with the concrete
>How would I go about making something like this to cover my sump?
Make a frame of angle iron (I'd use bed rails coz I have a bunch) that fits inside the opening and is supported by the lip of the iron.
weld rebar between two opposing sides so they are level with the lip.
Realistically, what would be the obstacle in creating a shelf and a table, out of used/cheap material such as cardboard box, dense styrofoam cork, or a fruit crate?
Your primary issues would be strength and rigidity.
Basic lumber should be extremely cheap in most of the world. A better bet would be looking for shit people have thrown away if you don't have any money at all, but you can make incredibly sturdy shelves with some basic tools and under 50 dollars of lumber.
Hmm fair. It was just an idea that suddenly popped into me.
I imagine it would be ideal for extremely cheap, semi-permanent, and disposable furniture, in contrast to buying or building your own shelves, which would take time and effort to build or move around.
Also forgive my own ESL-ness, but I just realized that the more appropriate term for what I'm thinking about is more "repurposing" rather than "creating".
Fitting some swing loops for kink purposes. Each plate has 4 screw holes. I suspect the longer screw is ideal- but I can't find 16 of them. Would the shorter one work?
you dont want to use a machine screw (the shorter one) in wood. just go buy more of the longer ones, a bag of screws is like 2 dollars.
thanks, managed to salvage 16 short wood screws rummaging from a box of knick-knacks. couple are rusted but this isn't a long term thing anyway. should be good to go.
I bought a driveway reflector and my stupid ground is so chuck full of rocks I can't get it to go in. Would beating something like this with a sledgehammer help make a hole for it? Is there a specific tool for this? The hole only need to be about 1/8 inch like not very big around. I thought about shooting a hole with a gun but it'll probably bounce off and hit me in the face.
Whatever I think I'll go buy this stupid rod an try whacking the shit out of it until it breaks or the ground succumbs to my power.
Aluminium is soft junk, it'll bend and break. Ideally, just dig a fricking hole? If not, they make big post hole digger bars out of steel, those won't fall apart. 1/4" is nothing, you'd want about 2 inches thick aluminium if you wanted it to hold up slightly to hammering.
In the aisle I went to for the rod I found this and got it instead,
What's the most comfortable toilet seat I can get that doesn't fricking move around every time I shift my weight because it's held on with shitty little plastic screws.
Stop shifting your weight around, fatty?
I never had this problem until I lived with a fat c**t. I don't know what it is you do, you sit down, you shit. Why are you rolling around on the seat like a moron?
The screws are soft plastic because replacing a toilet seat is a lot less effort than replacing a whole toilet because you cracked the holes trying to tighten shit onto ceramic. I guess you could try something a bit grippier on both surfaces, like a rubber washer on each side and maybe scrape the plastic clamping parts a bit so they stick better to the washers.
Remove seat entirely. Idk why ppl even use seat.
I would recommend a wooden seat, with big silicon pads that will connect with the seat. Also keeping the seat, pads and ceramic clean and dry will prevent any slipping. Not overweight but seen lots of bad seats with firm rubber that doesn't stop what you're describing well.
I was thinking about getting a stained glass window to put in my chicken coop but the ones I'm looking at are old enough that they probably have lead paint on the frames. I would want to paint the frame to match the coop. Is just stripping the old paint off with a chemical stripper the bar way or is it a meme? I don't wanna poison my chickens or myself so maybe it's better not to bother? Pic related, was gonna check them out tomorrow.
trying to fix a leak on my blowtorch
does anyone know what the gasket ring material between pump and tank should be? i thought vulcan fiber but it seems to hard to make a proper seal, if i torque it down to much it will break the solder joint.
The old material was some kind of rubber fiber too
Cork
cork is what they use on the checkvalve, for that place it doesnt seem to be right
what about viton?
The dental fillings thread that just frigging now got deleted had something in it that piqued my interest. Someone had mentioned swabbing your mouth with bacteria that produce alcohol instead of lactic acid. Any more info on this? Studies, keywords i can look up?
My mansfield style toilet is flushing like 3-4 times. It seems like the flush valve float won't drop as if it got stuck or something. When I push on it gently, I feel resistance from the water since it is "floating". What physical process makes it stop floating and drop? I can't tell if I need a 210 or 211 valve. It is a very old toilet so probably 210 3.5gal.
i think i know what is going on. the float may be too small / too light, so when the toilet is flushed it lifts the float and it will then keep floating until the water level is low enough for it to sink and seal the valve. but if it is too light it will keep floating. i have the one on the left. perhaps i need to replace it with the right one since it is bigger and heavier and will sink sooner??
what is this thing guys ?
Is it the head of a tunnel boring machine or some shit?
A lot of the have a pull cord to change the speed, even if it’s on a switch. And if it is switched, sometimes the little chain is cut short but still up there rattling around
Well mine doesn't have any
It uses a regulator for speed
Clicking becomes less frequent when I turn it down and completely ceases when running on a battery
I have this stone step that is loose. Can I just use cement adhesive on the back of the stone and ground to set it in place?
I had a step that was reset with cement adhesive at one point, it stuck pretty well to the slab itself, came away from the underlying mortar very easily after a couple of years. Had to re-do them all with mortar because the previous owner was lazy.
How thick did you apply the mortar ? And did you apply it to both the bottom of the slab and ground
As thick as the existing mortar, about the width of my finger, I had some reference points for where the steps needed to go. Honestly, it was a hassle of a job. If I had to do something similar again I'd just call someone in, pointing work is tricky, I made a bit of a mess of it, and I had to re-do a bunch of bricks because they had all broken loose too over the years, which is probably why the last guy just half-assed it. Your steps look easier though, probably won't be as much of a hassle. Just looks like someone didn't bother putting any mortar under to fill the cavity? And stuck the slabs on just at the front with a bit of garbage instead of filling the void.
I just put the mortar on the bottom, evened it out until it was a little higher than I wanted, then put a moistened slab on top of it and hammered it into place with a rubber mallet. Might take a few goes, you can always take the slab off and add and remove mortar. Most of the time I had to grab extra mortar with my hands and shove it into the gap because what pressed out didn't quite fill the space up to the lip. There are videos on youtube you can look up.
need a budget shade tent:
I need it for three months, i will need to move it around 100ft at a time, i do not need to fold it down. it will occasionally be subject to 30 mile an hour winds.
options:
find a broken tent where the collapsing mechanism is fricked but its still rigged open.
>how do i find one of these for sale when most peeps would be inclined to just toss it
make something out of pvc, 2x2s and some sort of joints, screws or duct tape
cheapest option available sourcing used/free material? I cant imagine buying brand new material for this project is the cheapest option, but if you could recommend some cheap home despot material, please do.
1. where can i source a free cloth canopy from a wrecked frame?
2. i have access to hacked up 3x15 ft lengths of heavy duty tarp, 6x6 thin blue harbor-freight tarp
I can't imagine you'll find one with a broken collapsing mechanism, and even if you did, how would you transport it? Generally what happens is a part gets bent and the whole thing gets fricked, which means it's not going to stand up to any winds.
Depending on how cheap you need it and how much space it needs to cover, you could get away from just making one out of some 2x2s, just build a cube. Water will pool on the top, people might trip over the bottom posts, but when you're done you can recover most of the material, and maybe you can find an old canopy from someone with a wrecked frame, or repurpose a tent with a few cuts and patch some holes.
Is there something above the heating element that is leaking? What might that be?
Came back from vacay and no hot water.
The tank is leaking.
If there is an upper heating element, it could be the gasket on that element.
If there is only a single element or the pic is of the upper element, It 'may' be leaking around an inlet or outlet nipple or around the anode rod on the top of the tank.
If it's none on those, it's just rusted through the tank wall.
Ok thanks. That is the upper element. Frick guess I need to clean out the garage today so I can get in and see wtf is going on.
I'm mounting a video doorbell and I've ran into two small problems. I would like some advice on.
1. I'd like to build out the stone so I can mount it flush and nice looking. Maybe make some sort of like flat stone mount. Been to several shitty stores and can't find any stone that looks remotely like what's on the wall. Does anyone have any suggestions for something? The only thing I could think of at this point would be to just plop a bunch of grout that at least matches that color and just shape it.
2. Where they put the original doorbell wire is fricking ass but it's also stone. How much of a pain in the ass would it be to move it up like three inches realistically or should I just smash the wire against the stone and paint it if it comes to that?
Pic related seam leaks. I assume the water collects in the grooves. I assume slapping a flashing tape and heating it with a gun should do the trick but is it acceptable to tape over the screws? I could also put the tape flush against them if necessary, the pitch is 9/12 and water streaming upwards is unlikely. Not a fan of replacing the screws because more things can go awry, I'd probably have to unscrew, tape over and reinstall them one by one to make sure nothing comes apart.
For now I've smeared some gutter caulk over the seams (don't have the tape on hand) but everything's moist due to the drizzle and it didn't seem to bond that well and I don't fancy redoing the whole thing within a year.
https://www.instructables.com/Full-Size-Arcade-Cabinet-Using-Raspberry-Pi/
Is there any way to make these angled cuts into MDF/plywood with hand tools? or should i rent a jig saw and cut all this in one day? I was wanting to build it for my mom for christmas.
wait frick, this one doesn't have the kind of angled cuts i was thinking of. I've been looking at a lot of different tutorials and confused myself.
Anyway, I can get my homedepot to cut the larger pieces out and then cut out the smaller pieces with a hand saw, or is that moronic?
hi PrepHole
ive got hot water heating in my apartment (long radiators that run along the walls). there's one in my apt that makes a very annoying squealing sound. the sound is intermittent but happens frequently (last for a second or so, happens a few times a minute).
does anyone know what it could be?
My water supply line had a small leak due to a bad O ring in a hose. The baseboard below is completely warped and ruined. This doesn't bother me at the moment since it is behind the washing machine. Should I still remove the baseboard to inspect for drywall damage and mold and to make sure it is dry? The baseboard itself it dry. It doesn't seem like it ever got soaked just a gradual drop of water over time but I can't imagine moisture still isn't trapped back there
Sanity Check.
I have an extra rolling chair base, five feet on casters etc. I want to take the seat off, and bolt a 2x4 to the bracket, along with some kind of frame to turn it into a rolling PC cart. Just needs to hold a tower case, a monitor on an arm, and an electric receptacle for the two power cords.
Terrible idea? What kind of complications can you foresee?
I could see balance issues depending on the weight of the monitor outstretched versus the tower and base plate. Maybe put a 10lb weight in it at the base.
That or issues with the power cords. Maybe find a retractable extension cord and use it connected to a power strip depending on the area you plan to move this thing around in?
I bought a bottle of "MAPP" gas at Home Depot (not the bernzomatic MAPPRO stuff, this bottle says it burns at 3600F). I have picrel propane torch, can I use it with this hotter stuff? or will it melt/break?
It will be fine.
does any of you use some kind of noise reducing ear plugs when using tools? I don't like the feeling of overear protections and am looking for some in ear ones. I always hear about Loops on reddit, but I think thay are all shills... pls help
Installing a gravity shelf and wjat part screws into the wall is wiggling even though I made sure Im hitting the studs and the screws are all the way in. What did I mess up and how to not make the same mistake next time?
You know this automatic air fresheners that spray some fragrance based on some movement sensor? Where can I buy the electronic spraying mechanism itself? I want to use it in my project. I am ESL so am not sure what to even google.
I think they use a geared motor of some sort, maybe a linear one or maybe rotational. A conventional high-power "RC servo" (check out the /rcg/ thread for recommendations) might have enough power to actuate the spray head, especially with the right size actuator arm or through use of something like a "bell-crank". These servo motors have a built-in gear reduction, and will automatically retract after you take the power off.
An actuator arm coupled to a conventional "brushed DC gear motor" would probably be my attempt. The actuator would push down on the spray head when the motor is powered on, and when the motor is powered off again the spring-force of the spray head pushes the rack back into its resting position. The gear reduction would need to facilitate easy back-driving though.
Thanks for replies, I did not realize it is that complicated. I imagined there should be some on the market as a separate component, but maybe not.
Because they're all built for competing can standards, they're all custom builds. Printers are very simple, but none of the parts between manufacturers are compatible for this kind of reason, moulding for a few plastic gears isn't that expensive when you're making millions of the things.
They're not off-the-shelf, it's just a basic motor with heavy gearing ratios molded in plastic to push the top of the can down. You won't have much luck finding one, better off finding a "broken" one with the right dimensions.