Questions that don't deserve their own thread. I found a table about an ideal pellet diameter for shotgun small game hunting. The question is: wtf is this orange thing?
QTDDTOT
Questions that don't deserve their own thread. I found a table about an ideal pellet diameter for shotgun small game hunting. The question is: wtf is this orange thing?
Clay pigeon as used for skeet, trap, etc.
It hardly seems like a challenge to shoot a clay pigeon, they don't even move like regular pigeons.
Well at least you are breeding more so you do devastate their population. Sadly most aren't as responsible which is why you don't see as many as you use to in the wild.
clay Pidgeon. the frickers that you launch and shoot at. shooting skeet. whatever you call it.
Bought a ruger 57, dunno what rds to put on it. Any advice?
What are you going to be doing with it?
If just target shooting, Federal 40gr FMJ/TMJ
If you're carrying, FN 27gr HP
check ammoseek
I recently bought an Enfield No.1 Mk3 and the headspacing is out of spec.
Had some people tell me it’s fine and the modern gauges are different from older measurements.
Had others tell me I’ll explode if I shoot it.
So which is it?
you can't explode no matter how worn head spacing is, but casings might crack or have head separation, or just be very stuck. It also accelerates wear on the bolt and other components but that's not a big problem on manually actuated arms. Worst case scenario is a casing goes through case-head separation where you need a casing extractor to remove it.
Before any one comments about free bore shortening from chamber wear, the start of rifling gives out way before that can be a possible issue essentially increasing the free bore till you have a shot out barrel.
>put one in the chamber and shake the gun around.
>listen and try to feel if the cartridge has room to bounce around or rattle in the chamber.
>big jingle is big bad casings go boom, silence is good casings have support. little jingle varies means worn.
Thanks Anon. Will try this out.
>you can't explode no matter how worn head spacing is
are you moronic?
no really are you moronic?
why are you talking?
>citation needed
show me a single injury that was caused from headspace issues and not reloading the same brass for the xth time or expired ww1 era over-pressure ammo causing it.
>pro-tip: you can't.
Case head separations were so common during ww1, 2, and all the way up till the 70s (and today for some arms) that blown case extractors were/are standard issue. The bigger the chamber the lower the pressure.
>post guns
https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/case-head-separation-worst-that-can-happen.803281/
Every example where gun damage occurred and anecdote turned out to be reloads, expired ammo, or bad batch like 90s VihtaVuori powder. The gun will literally not be able to fire if it gets worn enough with eternal light primer strikes because it can't fully reach the primer.
https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/head-spacing-and-worn-out-03-springfield.119820/ post #6 to both check locking lugs, would not recommend fixing that way unless you have experience with welding, machining, and heat treating.. While still shootable, good head spacing is still important on rifles so the above mentioned case head separation doesn't occur. Casing ruptures are different and while not caused by head spacing issues, they are exacerbated by them and can throw small amounts of gas back into the gun. Most are caused by extreme overpressure by shooting expired ammo or bubba's pissin hot handloads, but some are caused by reloading brass too many times.
>show me a single injury that was caused from headspace issues
This book describes many. Excessive headspace can cause case head failure, and that blows the gun up when high pressure gases get into the action.
This should be required reading before anyone opens their fricking mouths about internal ballistics. It doesn't cover everything, but it covers topics and testing that actually start building a cognitive framework to have productive discussions related to it.
>show me a single injury that was caused from headspace issues
I'm still waiting
Why the frick are you posting then?
just skimmed through book
>never a single mention of of an injury that was caused from headspace issues
Lying b***h
>Springfield messed up and made glass-like improperly heat treated bolts
>133,000 psi loads in said rifles tended to blow them up, who would've thunk?
>80k psi sometimes blew up pre 800,000 serial # ones
>70k psi was safe for 10 shots minimum
>pg 252 Black person
:It is quite interesting to note that even with the fantastically excessive headspace used in this rest gun, there were no ruptured cartridges, and the fired cases showed only very slight signs of stretching->in reference to .065" past nominal (the max the gun can fire from before the firing pin no longer is able to strike), as well as testing up to .105 over nominal with extended firing pin.
INTERESTING NOTE:
.065-.075 past nominal sees the highest velocity gain (~70fps) by the free bore providing less initial resistance to the bullet speeding up, but past .075 it sharply drops due to the gases blowing past the bullet. just find it interesting.
I could go on but point is:
>Read what you preach, dumb Black person.
and
>thanks for the read. It is actually a good read unironically.
I should also add that proof cartridges were set at 70,000 psi while standard pressure was 50,000 psi and standard procedure was one proof load followed by 5 service loads. They would also randomly choose one rifle and send it with one 70k proof load followed by a 125k proof load. Post-800,000 serial numbers held up surprisingly well all things considered.
>Source https://ia601307.us.archive.org/1/items/Hatchers_Notebook/Hatchers_Notebook_text.pdf pg 199
>Case head separations were so common during ww1, 2, and all the way up till the 70s (and today for some arms) that blown case extractors were/are standard issue
There's a huge difference between a case head that breaks during extraction due to the case being stuck in the chamber vs. an unsupported case head failing due to pressure or insufficient hardness during firing. The former is no big deal other than having to remove the busted case. The latter blows up the gun.
>50bmg-in-12gauge.jpg
will shooting brittle old commercial ammo that splits out of mine have any ill effects?
Depends how old and what kind. Different powders degrade differently, some like turkish ammo degrades rather violently and are already loaded to higher than normal pressures, so anything from that region is generally to be avoided surplus ammo wise. Others have the opposite problem, as in powder weakens over time and while this doesn't seem bad initially, remember it only takes one squib for a bad time. General rule of thumb is
>20 year=probably fine but is when you should start cycling it out/selling it
>40 year=I wouldn't but others would
>60+ year=not worth potential squibs/overpressure
>corrosion=very bad avoid any corroded ammo
If it's splitting every case I wouldn't keep going, just for the potential that it is over pressure causing it. I would gauge it with a field gauge but if I don't have one of those then I would try different ammo loaded to the same loading to see if it is just the casings that are brittle or if it is the gun.
Only americans worry about headspacing on military rifles that aren't made from kits
Just shoot the damn thing
do you bring your CCP when you're out with your woman?
I want to be able to kick a Black person's ass legally if they touch her.
I do but usually Xi has to call several commitees to order before my CCP does anything
sent my gun to beretta for warrenty work and they sent it back broken 🙂
the barrel tip-up lever does not tip the barrel up so i cant disassemble the gun what do
Send it back again and hope they break something less important this time.
Why did Mozsberg discontinue the muzzle loader conversion kit for the 500? I just want to get the extended hunting season without buying a whole new gun!
The frick? And I thought the T/C conversion kits were weird.
Honestly, just get yourself a musket, it's worth like $300 for a Traditions Kit
You can get some of those CVA 'In-Line' Muskets for under $300 if you look around, way less if you don't mind used, and don't care about a scope.
Pic related is a CVA Optima Pro
If I cast bullets from silver, will shooting them thrash my barrel?
I don’t really have any intention of blowing that much cash shooting my cosplay loads but was wondering if the difference in hardness would cause issues if it ever came up.
Silver is soft, far far softer than steel, so I don't see why it would cause any harm to your barrel.
I want to plink plonk at III and IV plates
is there a handy dandy chart or anything for full-steel equivalents so I could make a bunch?
I know they won't be the same as actual plates, they just need to be roughly equivalent
Really want to get a short barrel shotgun. Was thinking about getting a shockwave and slapping a stock on it.
How long is the whole NFA paperwork take? Is it worth it?
Form 1 Efiles are surprisingly fast. I've had them take anywhere from 10 days to 3 weeks.
Hacksaws are cheaper and faster
How do I get a qt glowie gf?
who the frick shoots beach combers, can you even get edible meat off that shit?
snipe is a popular gamebird, that's where the term "sniper" comes from.
Should I spend $600 or $300 on a stupid weeb katana. https://www.swordsofnorthshire.com/devil-may-cry-5-vergil-1095-high-carbon-steel-dmc-yamato-samurai-katana-sword
>dmc
>stupid weeb katana
Get motivated
You'll never get something really 'decent' from those places, whatever money you put. Will it cut stuff? For sure. But a $3 machete would too. Keep your money and take the idea of buying a katana out of your head, these things are a fool trap whether you're looking for a repro, a supposedly antique piece or one of those cheap-ish ww2 bringbacks made at a very low cost for japanese officers.
don't.
don't be this guy.
>don't be this guy
100% agree. Don't waste money on a double wide, save it for more weeb shit.
The pictures of them are the same. Also, the blade looks strange. Why does the edge look like it's covered in white shit?
$600 is above, this is the $300 https://www.ryansword.com/Yamato-Devil-May-Cry-5-Katana-Clay-Tempered-Choji-Hamon-Hazuya-Polish--Ryan1379-p-1248.html
Anyone else lately experiencing a somewhat unresponsive /k/? It's like short burst of threads and pictures not loading, posts getting posted stuck in "sending" limbo, etc.
It's trannies trying to flood this board with israelitekraine crap and shills trying to fight back posting russian israelites, that's /k/ now part and parcel
Clay pigeons, I used to shoot them woth my father when I was younger. We shot so many of them that we raised and bred our own clay pigeons. Our backyard was full of clay pigeon coops.
Is the DGFM FMAP 1927 on par with other 1911's in terms of quality and reliability?
Nobody uses 10 bird for clay. Most common is 7 1/2, 8, and 9.
I bought this decrepit old fowling piece (16GA) in complete disrepair - or so I thought. I think I could get it to at least blow shot a few yards. The bore is remarkably bright, but I can't tell if the breech plug is really set completely.
Given the """lighter""" pressures involved with BP, could I just weld breech plug and call it a day?
From that pic it looks okay, back in the days it was probably fine and time won't change that- as long as there's no deep corrosion visible
I'd shoot it a few times looking away and then just use it normally
If you're really worried post that pic on a 100% black powder forum, there are always a few oldgays who really know their business there about those old guns and getting several opinions is not a bad idea in cases like this
If you weld a fricking breech plug on a gun that old, I will annihilate your anus with a fricking cactus. You will frick any temper it has, not to mention make those threads completely inaccessible. If you have a fricking WELDER, you have enough scrap (and the tools) to make an action wrench and things like oil and a torch to help take it apart or tighten it. Don't halfass it and frick it up for the next owner or ruin its condition. Yes, it's old, yes, it's dirty. But you already took the time to ask. Welding it or doing it the right way will take about the same amount of time to set up and finish. And doing it the right way, you won't be questioning whether you're blowing out junk through the threads or not. And welding will look like shit.
Why do my in-laws microwave ice cream?
Is there a difference between a PSA complete upper and an MAS Defense one?
I was gonna buy one a 10.5 inch one that included the BCG and the charging handle for my first pistol and AR-15 build, but my brother said to just get the 10.5 MAS one with the flash can, but it doesn't include a BCG or charging handle, and alot of the prices for those two parts online really rack up higher than I thought, considering the PSA upper comes with both pieces
Is there a notable difference between the two uppers?
If I should get the MAS one, where should I get a BCG from?
Both uppers are near the same price and length
>pic related
The uppers for comparison
The other upper
What are the green things between the fox and the rabbit?
possibly badger, not sure about 2nd on the left though. almost looks like a hedgehog but i think they're protected
2nd on left is racoon dog i think 3rd is badger
Upper receiver anon here
It says the barrel on the MAS is specifically
4150V MELONITE
MAS00120406
I have no idea what that means
Is it better than the PSA one?
I think it says the PSA one is
4150V Chrome Moly Vanadium
Phosphate
How does it compare, as far as I know the numbers are the same but the words are different so that's gotta mean something
Looking at MAS defense they are based out of NC, PSA is from SC, so pretty close by. I wouldn't be surprised if they both sourced parts from the same suppliers. On paper their standard barrels are made the same way as the nitride barrels PSA uses. Perhaps they are designed in a similar way but made with higher QC standards, perhaps they are identical from the same supplier. I see MAS also sells Faxon barrels as an option, which are known to be a bit better (I have one on an AR and it's pretty good, although the way they pinned my front sight on wasn't done perfectly) but that's not equipped on the upper you are looking at.
I reckon (and I'm spitballing here so take this with a grain of salt because I don't have any first hand experience with MAS, although I do have quite a bit with PSA) that MAS is probably using similar or identical parts and you are simply paying for better QC on assembly. Your friend might have recommended it as basically any alternative to PSA which has a bad reputation because they are so cheap. From my experience that's more if a disdain for people who buy them than actual quality issues with their products which aren't impressive but they tend to be pretty ok in terms of actual functionality.
The MAS also has a different type of muzzle device called a flash can. They are more expensive than an A2 Birdcage, but we're talking $30 so you could just buy and stick one on the PSA if you really care.
I want a retro-ish folding 870 stock, which of these should I get? The side folder is higher quality, the ATI top folder looks cooler but it's flimsy plastic.
The sidefolder looks like a 1913 stock from arm's length, so it loses retro points by association. Like you said, the ATI looks cooler, and looking cool is the entire battle in this case.
You'll get more annoyed by having flimsy plastic on your gun then by having a slightly-less-retro look
Yeah, I'm thinking you're right, and the side folder still looks pretty cool. Thanks anon.
Where can I find firearms/furniture/extras made from recycled products? All my guns are pre-owned but I've been thinking of getting a new one and don't want to increase my carbon footprint
Probably nowhere, there's no market for that.
Recycling means frick all when it comes to carbon footprint though; in the case of plastics it takes more energy to recycle plastic than it does to use virgin material. A good rule of thumb to use is whether or not someone will pay you for scrap. That tells you if the recycling is actually net positive or not. Things like aluminum cans or scrap steel? Junkyards will pay cash money for that because it honestly does save energy to recycle those thing. Stuff like paper or plastic? Nobody will pay you for that because it takes more energy to recycle it compared to the alternative.
I know recycling isn't very good, that's why I tend to focus on the use/reuse portion of the mantra, but recycled products put less plastic in circulation which is what I really care about. I'm willing to pay a little more if it means incentivizing recycling plastics.
It does, thank you!
VZ58 furniture is traditionally made from pre-consumer recovered material, if that counts as "recycled" to you.
Real answer is, don't get stuff made from plastic at all
Buy whatever and then ventilate your dysfunctional skull. Problem solved forever.
What distance can I expect from 30-06? Im having a really hard time finding info any time I try to Google long range shooting I get nothing but stupid frick 308 shit and then the 6.5mememore and the like rounds. If anyone could recommend me a YouTube video or channel a link to a thread in a forum or something I'd really appreciate it.
This dives into hunting ranges and combat ranges and max range for different ammo.
https://www.ammoforsale.com/ammo-club/effective-range-of-30-06/
Hope this helps
Thank you, dude hell yes this is great!
Glad to be of service
Anyone try to make pic related or something similar? I was wondering about extremely tapered casings and wanted to see magazines or guns that used them
A clay target?
Are old, surplus M1 Carbine oilers worth anything? I was cleaning out a late relative's garage and found a plastic bag with 15 of them, labeled "good, used" and they look the part so they're not modern reproductions. I was thinking of going to the local fudd store and asking for $40 of store credit, is that too little to ask or are they somewhat worthless?
they seem to go for about $20 apiece, so you could expect $5-$10 from a surp store or the like
Looking for source on a story someone told me that took place in either Afghanistan or Iraq, where a group of US servicemen came under fire from Talibs/insurgents from some trees/bushes, and they called in air support. After an A-10 did a gun run, they all came out of the brush with their hands up.
90% chance it's fake, but on the off-chance it's real I wanted to check. I can't find anything with my searches.
Was it a greentext? It vaguely reminds me of a VRchat video with a guy explaining a similar story.
Nah someone told me about it irl like they heard it from somewhere else.
How much of a pain in the ass is the efile SBR tax stamp process really? I really want one for ease of transport to the range and too much military autism media over my life has made me think they're really fricking cool. I know it's $200 and the form you use for building one as opposed to FFL is supposed to take much less time, which is what I'd be doing.
>I really want one for ease of transport to the range and too much military autism media over my life has made me think they're really fricking cool.
A 16" bullpup or a 16" normal rifle with a folding stock is shorter than any reasonable AR and doesn't require any extra paperwork. Just saying.
I'm not opposed to that idea eventually but I'd like a lot more rifle experience before I take on a different platform, just bought a 16in AR as my first long gun two weeks ago. My broken down AR fits fine, if a bit awkwardly in my range bag, so this purchase will likely be in the future as I'd rather spend money on ammo and a better optic in the near future.
Why not just get something like a LAW folding stock adapter, and if you really need to unscrew your muzzle device and protect the threads with some cardboard? Then you can just continue using your current bag without giving the ATF money.
>LAW folding stock adapter
I entirely forgot about these, will probably just go with one of these instead of forking over money for a new upper and the feds, thanks anon.
How do I get a gf who likes guns and wants to homestead innawoods?
Get off PrepHole and talk to women.
Get a gf, introduce her to shooting, and go homestead innawoods. If she's really into you and not just using you as a meat dildo until someone more exciting comes along, she will at least pretend to appreciate your bullshit since that's what she needs to do to continue having access to you.
PS any woman who actually appreciates shooting and the appeal of living in a Unabomber cabin in the woods and isn't just pretending is probably defective in some other way—go out and make some friends to share your hobbies with and get a gf to do gf stuff with.
>is probably defective in some other way
I mean, compromising with her defects seems fair given that she would need to put up with my defects as well
can someone recommend me a good subtle looking fanny pack to carry picrel at the gym
>inb4 hill people gear
i don't want to look like a tacgay, needs to be as low key as possible
Is there a reason you can't just wear a PHLster Ligma under your basketball shorts?
this still risks printing or showing the handle when lifting weights. a fanny pack does neither of these and also doesnt require strapping a garter belt to myself like a wild west-era hooker
>ask for holster recommendation
>"just dont leave the house bro"
this is peak /k/
1. only other tacgays know about HPG so they aren't going to Karen out over it unless you're being a shithead and texting in the curl rack or something
2. just get a home gym, idiot; if you can afford multiple low-quality AR15s, etc, you can afford a bar, a squat stand, and some pl8s
Can anyone recommend me a decent soft bag for my rifle? Preferably not too expensive. Just something to haul back and forth to the range.
It would be helpful to know what sort of rifle you're transporting, even if only in general terms (bolt gun, normal carbine, bullpup/foldyboi, etc.), since that affects what kinds of soft bags people can reasonably recommend.
Swiss K31
Whatever the cheapest padded long gun bag at your LGS or Walmart. You have tons of options and they're all fine and shouldn't run you more than $20-30 if you just want to keep the gun from getting banged up on the way to/from the range.
What does this mean?
It means you suck. Git gud.
(Some context would be helpful if you want a more specific answer.)
Distance? Scope? Irons? Caliber?
I kinda wanna do an A1 build, but I don't like the angle of the A1 and A2 pistolgrips, does anyone make an AR15 pistolgrip which has the same shape and aesthetic but which has a straighter angle?
I don't wanna stick a BCM Mod 0 on there, it'll look way out of place, even if it's much more ergonomic.
Closest I know of is the Griffin Armament A3, which uses a square grid texture instead of checkering but otherwise looks the part.
That does look like it has a grip angle that's under 20 degrees, which is kind of what I'm looking for.
Top Gun got me wondering:
Why was the F-14 considered dramatically outdated, even 20 years ago, but its sisters the F-15 and F-16 are still viable even today?
Swing wings added weight and complexity
Poor engines not upgraded that makes it fly like turkey
its primary weapon the Phoenix was nixed
Low availability while its replacement the Hornet was cheap reliable effective and always there, like a middle aged wife from Vietnam
what are the risks of trying to buy a single barrel shotgun? where can i go to get one? is a pawn store bad
Bad lockup, possibility of buying a damascus twist steel barrel barrel and blowing it up with high power steel shot loads. Don't buy ancient shotguns. Don't get taken for more than $20-$150 for an OLD single shot shotgun, don't overpay for Turkshit, don't overpay for a Hatfield (can be had at Walmart NEW for cheap if your Walmart sells guns).
Tall rings. They make rings of various heights; yours are probably too short and you probably have an inline stock like an AR-15. Or a stupidly high comb.
How do you aim if you have a long neck?I just can't bring my head to the sight
>I just can't bring my head to the sight
So don't.
That means your stock doesn't fit and/or the sights are mounted too low.
Does anybody know what camo this is?
The picture is Shamil Basayev at the Budyonnovsk Raid 1995 in Russia
Belgian jigsaw, maybe? Not 100% sure about that.
Thought so too, but it's different
:/
I got a Mini-14 with a twist rate of what seems like 1:10. Since I am a moron who can't remember the correlation between twist rate and bullet weight to save his life - what would be a good bullet weight for this barrel?
Red blood cells. You shoot someone with those pellets and boom: motherfricker now has sickle cell.
Okay so far the following OP filters have made the board almost usable, anything I'm missing or should add?
>russia
>russian
>ukraine
>ukrainian
>vatnik
>vatnig
>kyiv
>antonivskyi
If you want to just avoid the Ukraine stuff as best you can, you'll also want to consider filtering OP posts containing:
>pallets
>vatBlack person
>vatisraelites
>hohol
>ukies
>ukrop
>putin
>putinists
>putingays
>putler
>intel slava z
>incel celeron z
>slava
>azov
>azovstal
>kherson
>kiev
>donetsk
>donbabwe
>luhansk
>luganda
>russo
>article 5
>t-i-g-e-r-s
>p-o-l-a-n-d
>kettle
>kottel
>HATO
>CSTO
Thank you, you are an absolute legend
survivalism/knife question:is it possible to eat ALL an animal,without dying? meat,bones and teeth(grinded into powder?), organs and tendons,eyeballs and sexual organs, blood...
I want to hunt a very strong animal and consume his power.
1. learn english, ESL moron
2. yes, theoretically it's possible to consume all of it, though some of it might just pass through, and eating the intestines filled with shit is not really healthy. Also, why the frick do you need to aks if you can eat sexual organs and blood? Are you an urbanite who has never eaten anything but tendies?
3. You have to be 18 to post here
>learn english
you take issue with Me?
>urbanite
backwards backwater incestous zoophile detected
>zoophile
>implying furries aren't peak middle class or richer urbanites
Can confirm, middle class furry. Many gun
Glad you can gun anon. I figured the fursuits would eat up too much budget or gun
No fursuit yet. Saving that for after I move in with my boyfriend. And that's going to be a long process because he's unfortunately French.
He's never shot a gun before either so that should be fun when he comes over next spring for a camping trip.
Your boyfriend is probably having a train run on him literally this second. Maybe even by frogs that can afford mascot costumes.
>want relationship
>get told to go outside
>meanwhile this homie gets a French bf
How do you even get a French bf? I want a qt slav gf, but I'm not about to buy a mail order bride.
It's probably a troony in Quebec catfishing him.
I found them by not going outside. I travel a lot but only ever meet genuine people online nowadays.
I can find you a femboy Russian by the hour though if that tickles your fancy.
>femboy Russian
No thanks, not really my thing. I'm giving strong thoughts to going on a dating app, but I'm really autistic when it comes to putting real information about myself out on the interwebs. Thanks Stranger Danger for fricking me up
Best of luck anon. Just be your autistic self and someone will like you eventually
One, what? Two, how is this a knife question?
>meat,bones and teeth(grinded into powder?)
Probably; look into uses for bone marrow. Do not get bone splinters in your gut or you'll die. Bone powder is super bad for the lungs.
>organs and tendons,eyeballs
Eyeballs yes, look into survival situations where survivors start craving fish eyes for the water content. Tendons will be nasty and are basically impossible to chew up but are edible. Organs yes, but make sure the liver doesn't have spots (Tularemia, etc.). Heart can be made into its own dish as can the liver, etc. Haggis is sheep stomach IIRC so I'm sure you can do the same with other animals. Intestines can be used to make sausage casings IIRC but they need to be very clean and soaked for a long time in something to make sure no parasites are still alive if any existed, not to mention bacteria and taste. Do not eat brain; prions are terrifying and will kill you even if you get diagnosed. It's EXTREMELY rare but it's certain death once it starts screwing with your brain. I heard of a story where a guy got it by eating squirrel brain. PA has deer with prions. While you're weird, I don't wish a prion death on anyone and wish to contain the spread as much as possible. Head can be cooked, if I'm remembering correct, the term is "head cheese" (ew).
>sexual organs, blood...
As weird a question as that is, rocky mountain oysters and blood pudding. Blood congeals quick as frick, though.
>I want to hunt a very strong animal and consume his power.
What the frick did he mean by this? Anon, you a cannibal or what?
Is it normal for shotgun slugs to also have wadding that comes off and makes sloppy holes in your target the way buckshot rounds generally will? My shotgun targets even with slugs are getting all fricked and ripped up with sloppy holes and I'm hoping I'm not keyholing slugs or some bullshit.
Yes there is a wad.
IIRC some have attached wads as a "tail" or stabilizer (like a shuttlewiener) and some don't. Probably fine.
Trying to figure out the best way to zero an acog with this reticle at an indoor range. I understand some people do a 25-300 yard zero by shooting a target at 10 yards and trying to put the point of impact an inch under the bullseye. Should I try that with this but use the 300 yard mark for my elevation?
Sighting in an inch low at 10 yards is for a 50/200 zero.
If you want a 25/300 zero, why not just sight in with the 300 yard line at 25 yards? Does your indoor range not go out that far?
They have a 25 yard range but they never have it operating at the times I go. They have to be either busy and using all the range space they can or the 15 yard range has to be closed for maintenance. Or maybe if you're extra nice and suck someone's dick they'll let you make a special trip in there. I don't even bother asking.
different anon, how does sighting in at different ranges work? I have an sks with a red dot that I want to zero, could I also do the same with that?
Much like an archer holds his bow upwards to shoot a distant target, rifles have to be aimed slightly upwards so that their bullets can hit their intended point of impact hundreds of yards away—the difference being that bullets fly much faster than arrows, so the upward angle doesn't have to be as significant.
A rifle's "zero" is the distance at which the parabolic trajectory of the bullet intersects your line of sight, that is, when the bullet is zero inches above or below your crosshairs, or front sight, or dot. Most rifle zeroes have the bullet cross the line of sight at two points as it rises up to the line of sight and later falls back down to it; these are your near and far zeroes, and are what the numbers in "25/300 zero" and "50/200 zero" refer to.
Because an SKS uses 7.62×39mm instead of 5.56 and its sights are closer to the barrel, its bullets won't follow the same trajectory as an AR's and, e.g., zeroing at 25 yards won't result in a 300 yard far zero—the bullet will come back down at some other distance that you would have to find out with a ballistic calculator or by seeing where your bullets land on known distance targets.
If you sight in at 12.5 yards using the 300 yard hash half of your height over bore low (i.e., if your optic centerline is 3" above bore you'd sight in 1.5" low) it should be close enough to confirm at 300 with only minor adjustments.
Using that reasoning, would it be effective to use the same 1 inch low at 10 yards trick by using the 200 yard mark? That should at least put him reasonably close to the ballpark of zero for the 100 meter line, 200, 300 and others assuming the graduations are close enough for the ammo he's using.
Looking for the video of T-Rex Lucas going into an elevator and putting a suppressor on a Glock like he's about to pull off a political assassination. Anyone have it?
>Captcha: DMD GOY
Does anyone know what sling this is? I know it has "HK" style metal clips on it, but it's not a standard 3-point HK sling.
probably an MP5 sling
what happens if I'm moronic and load a musket with no ball or shot, but just like 500 grains of Swiss, and then a wad
will it just blow fire or will I die
blow fire, but more hiss and less boom
Don't, it creates mustard gas.
Is it normal for the butt of your stock to hurt your collar bone, or should I be shouldering differently to avoid pressure on my collar bone? I was shooting some hot 12 gauge slugs the other day and I still feel it in my collar bone. Obviously it's not so much a problem with smaller bore guns, but it just seems weird to support a heavy recoiling weapon on the most easily broken bone in your body.
I realized that part of the reason for my problem was because I changed stocks and the new stock doesn't have as nice of a recoil cushioning pad on it. But even so, are there things I should maybe be looking into doing differently with how I hold, or is this just a problem collar bones will always have?
Im trying to mount a romeo 5xdr on a ruger 10/22 but its a little high, whats a good cheek riser for a 10/22?
electric triggers. no, not in the context of faster firing/less dwell time, or all that, but technically, wouldnt the perfect trigger pull be...none?
this is what im thinking. pull trigger/press button. digital display counts down from 3, and fires. you dont have to worry about muscles, trigger pull, tensing, relaxing. 100% attention to just holding the weapon well and aiming.
>"You just wait, Mr. Robber - in 3 seconds you're going to be put out of my misery!"
>gun fires automatically while Mr. Robber is wrestling for it and punching you in the head, your wife gets shot
Wow, sounds great.
holy shit i didnt think i needed to clarify this being for shooting paper and not actual time sensitive issues, but here we are
It's dumb even for paper. In that time you could get a cramp or sneeze or a bug could fly in your face or something could run across the range or any number of bullshit things could happen and you could end up shooting over your target and/or hurting someone.
this is so simple to solve its stupid. an off button, or a pressure sensitive button. a trigger that does not moved, a solid piece, but has a sensor. like come on, bruh.
All of this is solved by just pressing the button when you want the bullet to come out.
true, and literally the point im making to some extent. dont pull trigger. push button, gun goes off. no muscle tension, no pressure, none of the several, several things a trigger does to your point of aim.
and so, lets expand on that. this might seem familiar, since it was literally the basis of this entire conversation, but: trigger pull is bad. you could remove trigger pull. make the trigger a time delay. viola, no trigger pull to your shot.
So now instead of making sure the sights are lined up properly when the trigger breaks, you have to make sure they're lined up several seconds later. You've solved nothing. No-bullshit target triggers are already so light that they'll basically go off if you think about it too hard. I doubt 99.999% of people could tell the difference between a 1.1023 lb Olympic 50m pistol trigger and a trigger that required no actuation force at all.
oh, yeah, 99.9999% of people would never know or see the difference
anyways, back to the topic, could, not would.
okay more serious response. this system is useless, dangerous and would absolutely cost more then its worth, but thats not what im asking. elon musk, tommorow, he says, "im gonna win". he drops a cool 5 billion into it and makes a single use, single production number rifle. its utterly useless, would have no use in real life, and would never be sold
but does he shoot better.
No, because if he had the fine muscle control needed to hold the gun perfectly still through the delay, he could shoot a normal gun just as well, and if he doesn't, trying to make sure the sights are lined up when the gun decides to fire is going to introduce its own new set of problems to take the place of the ones that target shooters have spent the past century-plus learning to mitigate.
A system like a binary trigger, but that only fired on the release, would be mechanically simpler and would probably come a lot closer to your design goal, since the gun firing would still be under the shooter's direct control and there would be less opportunity for the shooter's grip to shift in a way that threw off the shot.
Actually, on further reflection, it wouldn't be a new problem; it'd be a RETVRN to a very old problem. Your system is essentially a gun with three seconds of lock time, so shooting one would be very much like shooting a flintlock or matchlock pistol, which are notoriously difficult to shoot well precisely because of the need to hold them on target through the perceptible delay between pressing the trigger and the powder charge igniting.
>pull trigger/press button. digital display counts down from 3, and fires.
You get the same effect with a black powder gun and lots of powder in the pan.
>pull trigger/press button. digital display counts down from 3, and fires. you dont have to worry about muscles, trigger pull, tensing, relaxing. 100% attention to just holding the weapon well and aiming.
>"Guys, I've got a great idea, I'm going to put lots of effort into reinventing the 600+ fricking years old concept of the matchlock!"
Silicon Valley is truly a miracle.
ah yes a matchlock has the consistency/timing of modern solenoids, why didnt i think of that
Can you please stop posting? Your idea is fricking moronic and you should feel embarrassed trying to defend it for multiple days.
For what it matters, yes, pull the trigger and then wait, focusing on your hold and followthrough. This is comparable to a matchlock where the pan overloaded, and you overload your pan with fricking Pyrodex, there's just this long awkward wait after pulling the trigger.
Your idea exists in a better and simpler form which doesn't need batteries via the release trigger you see in some skeet shotguns, which are intended for overcoming flinch some people get which they are unable to train away. Nobody but crippled shooters wants those things.
is putting a sig tango 1-8 on a 16 in mk47 dumb? asking for a friend.
Is there a YHM Turbo K around for less than $338 shipped? A buddy offered to give me his spare flash hider and mount so I'm trying to find the tube by itself. Shooting Surplus has the set for $338 shipped, is it available for cheaper anywhere?
has ian ever said frick?
I prefer to strong side carry. Is the alien gear shapeshift good for this or is there something better? I have a kydex I've been using for a while and feel like I can probably be doing better.
Alien Gear sucks, kydex is fine, if the plastic brick you're stuffing into your waistband is uncomfortable you'll get better results adding moleskin pads or equivalent to the hot spots of your existing holster than with a hybrid holster like that.
Good idea, thanks anon
Is it worth it bobbing the frame so it doesn't print as much when carrying?
who cares about printing
If you're hollding the gun properly your hand will never be low enough on the frame to interact with that corner of the grip anyway, so there's no reason not to round it off, but depending on who you have do it, a frame modification like that might cost a good chunk of what you'd pay for a new gun that already had a bobbed frame.
Local 1911 gunsmith told me he'd do it for 150 + parts. So far he's been okay with his work, should i trust him, or just bite it and send it somewhere fancy?
If he's specifically a 1911 guy and you've been satisfied with his work in the past, and he says he can do it, I see no reason to doubt him. He's the one who's going to be losing a customer and getting shit-talked online forever if he fricks up.
I guess you're right. I'm just always scared of having someone else frick up my expensive guns. Will do some ed brown parts and grips
Anyone ever buy cigs online?
Going to be picking up a used sporterized Mauser chambered in .30-06 soon. What should I check to confirm it's safe before I actually start shooting it?
If I just want a fun range toy, should I just get a .22 lever action?
Lever actions are fun, and if you don't like .22 you don't like shooting, but a .44 Mag levergun will probably be more fun if you can afford to keep it fed.
Do they sell corona at Oktoberfest?
if they're selling corona it's octubrefiesta
Is a zastava m91 a terrible idea?
https://zastavaarmsusa.com/product/sniper-rifle-m91/
I'm looking into cool, accurate bipod-able DMRs and this looks cool. That price is ludicrous but it's the cheapest SDV lookalike, until I find some other cool design that triggers my autism.
A SCAR 17 is basically the same price (ignoring that the M91 includes a free Slavshit optic—both because it's Slavshit glass and because for maximum coolness you'll be forking over $$$ for a wood furniture set and an appropriate bipod), just as cool (subjective, but it's my opinion and I don't have to justify it to anyone), and more accurate (both because it's not an AK and because there's way more match-grade .308 in America than match-grade nugget food)
but if a Yugo SVD clone is what you actually want to spend $3500 USD dollars on, I'm obviously not going to stop you
I want to shop around for a cheap SKS that I don't have to pay out the ass for online to ship across the country. But I might have to drive all over town to find one. Are they more likely at pawnshops than bigger stores? And how could I more easily find local classifieds that may help me in this endeavor?
You just have to get lucky. I found a Chinese SKS at my LGS that... had clearly seen some shit and was priced accordingly. Just drive all over town and keep the price of gas in mind while you do so.
Looking for a metal, full size 9mm: 92fs or P226 or something else?
M9, 92X, or LTT Elite depending on your budget
Im looking to get an 1873 repeater in 357. Should i go with jap winchester or italian uberti? They are about the same price so what is yalls experience with them?
asiaticchesters are pretty damn good, but tbh you could flip a coin here.
id almost buy one just to be able to say asiaticchester, honestly
Ok thank you anon
bum
Am moron and placed hot barrel on tarp which proceeded to melt onto my muzzle brake. How do I remove this shit without fricking up the finish? (Tarp was grey which is why the finish looks fricked already)
Shoot it til it burns off
>be FL resident
>legal residence is in FL, have FL driver's license
>working in MA until end of year
>my existing guns came with me
>order gun off gunbroker, it ships to NH
(for the two people unaware, MA has some of the worst gun laws ever thought up and whoever did in fact think them up should be forcibly exiled to Canada)
(if your gun isnt on The Big Gay List For homosexuals owning it is a felony)
>assume this law does not cover me as I bought all mine in FL
>bought new gun online (gunbroker)
>ship it to FFL in New Hampshire
>drive out 30 minutes
>he tells me if he were to hand it over he'd be committing a felony
>show him I'm an FL resident just renting in MA until eoy
>doesn't care, nothing he can do
What am I supposed to do?
he is going to sell it and tell you it was lost and if you complain report you to the feds
kwab yankeegay
>Already have illegal firearms for current home state
>Lying on 4473 about current residence
>Ordering gun to another state to avoid your states laws
Bro that's like 2 or 3 felonies you just tried to commit, my first move would be either pulling your head out of your ass as far as gun laws go or learning to get away with crimes.
If you think I'm changing my residence every year for work when I still live in FL you're nuts. I don't even think the federal government would keep up with how often I'm relocated.
The feds aren't monitoring you, they audit the FFL you are trying to do business with. When they see he transferred a gun to someone who officially lives in another state they are going to have questions for him. That's why he doesn't want to do it.
Also if you sent him a gun that's not MA legal that's going to be a problem for him when he gets audited by whatever state agency enforces that.
Why do shotguns with magazine being significantly shorter than barrel exist?
To save on weight in guns that you're going to use for hunting in places where you're not even allowed to have more than 3 or 5 or so rounds loaded at a time. That being said, I didn't even know Smith & Wesson made shotguns and it irritates me that they appear to have added a lug onto this barrel that would make it impossible to put an extended tube on it.
>in places where you're not even allowed to have more than 3 or 5 or so rounds loaded at a time.
Which is most of the US because bird hunting laws. Not sure if you can hunt other things with shotguns with larger capacity without chancing getting into trouble with a bored or overly eager game warden, but that's why even larger capacity shotguns come pre-plugged. morons who don't read won't get a fine from fish and game, people who don't hunt know how to un-plug them, and people even more stupid will come on /k/ and make a thread asking "why shotgun no hold more ammo" and won't bother with /QTDDTOT/. Such is life.
bullet drop mostly. i assumed the optic was tuned for 5.56 or .308
looking to buy a double barrel shotgun but i can’t find any over unders that have two triggers
any suggestions?
IS THERE ANYthing that qualifies as a submachinegun, in 5.56 or higher? not asking if its good, works, or was produced in numbers over 1, just, is there any example of a gun you see, and go "yeah...submachine gun" in calibers higher then subs usually are?
5.56 isnt a pistol caliber, so no.
then why can i get 5.56 pistols, anon, SWEETY.
no i get it, its a direct contradiction, im just asking what gun makes you question is intersexuality. what gun creeps that hard into the category its not supposed to
Submachinegun tends to mean a select-fire weapon that, typically in some sort of handy carbine size, which uses pistol cartridges.
Some older literature will refer to stuff like old CAR15s (early progenitors to the M4), as subguns in technical manuals and stuff, and in some languages they don't make really any distinction between a 9mm subgun and something like an AK carbine.
yeah, i was thinking those weird one offs, where its a 5.56 or or whatever, with the magazine in the grip, those weirdo one offs, or those 5.54/5.56 sten guns with no furniture. like, "yeah it fires this, but your not gonna use it for that"
ask the guy from Forgotten Weapons
I can't think of any kind of Sten-like gun in 5.56mm or 5.45mm, nothing which exists in real life or is of any serial production, to my knowledge anyway.
I guess kind of something like the M231 could be looked at a bit like a Sten, in that it's an AR15 which strips out the gas system and locking, running on open-bolt blowback, but the M231 is a very nonstandard weapon which I don't think can be adequately described as a subgun or assault rifle. Even in the niche world of "Firing Port Weapons", the M231 stands out, because most of the time those are plain conventional pre-existing subguns with fittings for special firing ports (in the Russian case, they have no dedicated FPWs at all and instead their firing ports just lets you use any gun).
In fact, unlike other FPWs you aren't even supposed to take them out of the vehicle, because they recoil badly and just barely stabilizes projectiles, they outright forbid you from doing it and started removing the stocks and sights on them (which it doesn't need) to discourage the practice.
yeah, i forgot about that port weapon, that seems to be the closest thing. they DID take those out and use them as infantry weapons, but like you said, dont get caught trying this.
heres the 7.62/308 sterling. its probably got a real backstory, but i like the idea of "holy frick we need submachine guns NOW, we have this ammo"
Oh yeah, that thing. I've heard someone suggest these were intended so that in case of WW3 they could hurriedly produce loads and loads of 7.62mm rifles to hand out to conscripts, or at least that this was supposed to be the pitch for the weapon, but I don't know if that was ever true, or someone's imagination.
It was probably intended to have a stock, but I think none of the few prototypes built had ones, or they don't survive.
would be pretty easy, and shortening the barrel for max fun, also probably easy. imagining conscripts running around with this in full auto with short barrels is hilarious and also produced a semi chub
There are basically two definitions of what a submachinegun is. One that is technical and one that speaks more to doctrine and how it's meant to be utilized.
The technical definition is that it must
>Be a pistol caliber.
>Be fully automatic or select fire.
>Have a detachable magazine.
By that definition anything in an intermediate rifle caliber such as a CAR-15, G-36C or say an AKS-74U can't be an SMG. They are carbine versions of assault rifles.
However, in terms of military or police use doctrine a really subcompact assault rifle such as the CAR-15, Micro Galil, etc. is small enough that it's effectively interchange for their purposes in actual use with a true SMG such as an UZI or MP5. That's where you see things like training manuals referring to an AKS-74U as an SMG even though it's technically still an assault rifle (in fact it says so in the name, with the "A" standing for "Avtomat" as opposed to "PP" for "Pistolet Pulemet" which is the Russian language designation for SMGs).
Typically when you ask "what is X", people refer to the technical definition since that's more fixed and easy to define than a doctrinal one which varies depending on who is talking about what at what time.
That might be an issue at longer ranges. If you already have the optic I'd just use it, if you are looking to buy one then of course buy one with an appropriately calibrated reticle if it's available.
They point better and hunting regulations limit capacity anyway.
>BCM® cannot guarantee function will all ammunition types in all conditions. These barrels were designed to run with a H3 buffer with high velocity ammo. If running subsonic ammunition, it is recommended to run your suppressor and a carbine buffer
Really? How common is this? I want to get a better upper but that's a deal breaker. I'm, running a jp silent captured spring so I have no idea how that'd function in it.
It's mostly boilerplate CYA crap, but yes, this is common to all gas-operated weapons and it's why adjustable gas blocks exist. There's no one perfect gas port size that will perform well with everything from steel-cased crap up to suppressed full-charge duty ammo, especially with rounds like 300 BLK where the same gun is probably going to be expected to run super- and subsonic loads.
So just make sure it has an adjustable gas block then?
Or a regular gas block and play with the buffer weight until you find an in-between weight that lets suppressed subs lock open on empty, but only just.
Or a Gemtech adjustable bolt carrier (assuming they still make them) or any of the other million or so options the AR gives you for setting it up just right.
Anyone see any buckshot available at their local Wal-Mart? If so, how were the prices?
Checking old pics shows a lot of target and game (bird/squirrel/rabbit) loads and a handful of slugs. Winchester 12ga 3" 1760fps 1oz slug $8.28/5rds (deer). .222 Rem for $28 (no round count visible); I didn't even know they stocked that. Winchester segmented rifled slug 12ga 2 3/4" 1600fps 1oz slug $17.82/10rds. Federal Power Shok 12ga $5.96/5rds. Remington Slugger Rifled Slugs 1oz $8.28/5rds.
But no, no buckshot.
why isnt elec tech more common, or magnets?
>any material could affect this, severally
>quarter mil of dirt on this action, itll fail
okay so fricking fix it. its a fricking computer. "ERR, TOO MUCH DIRT ON ACTION, CLEAN". "purchase HPs catridge cleaner for just 13.66 directly from the optic on your rifle".
i dont want it to happen, but the capitalism machine moves on, and they...havent done this? (its not safe, it doesnt work always. this stopped them when, ever, how?)
Electronic triggers on self-loading firearms will get your dog shot and adding silicon and H-1B code to a tool where weight and reliability are major design factors is a non-starter.
they say that, but really? it has to be "easily modifiable", and we live in a weird drm era.
Most DRM gets cracked within a week of exposure to the public.
>implying everyone who's ever given a DEFCON talk wouldn't be racing to jailbreak their rifle so they could play MP3s on it
you CAN make a *system that cant be broken, or broken within the life time of a particular system. would they? nah, being easy to break would be one of those "haha we dont advertise it and advocate it, but man 3 mouse clicks and..."
so, the capital system, knowing they can sell guns with this, could sell additional features with this, hasnt? id accept an example that failed miserably, because i dont think its an if, but a when question.
(*it exists, and would be hilariously, awfully suited for firearms, would not, and will not ever be introduced, ever. but it EXISTS)
>elec tech
>magnets
Fallibility. A gun is an inherently severe machine, we mostly use them for fun or practice but when it comes down to it, you carry a gun in the odd chance you have to use it on something. Or for militaries and police, WILL use it on something. It has to be infallible, or as close as possible. Mechanical failures can already happen, adding delicate electronics or magnets that can crack or change magnetism is just adding more things to go wrong.
Source: not my ass actually I bought an Armatix iP1 and it won't boot up and unlock right out of the box lol
Imagine you pick up your night stand gun because you heard a bump in the night, it actually is an intruder and you need to use deadly force. But crap the gun won't fire because you forgot to change the batteries, or the last time you took it shooting a lead worked loose, or the electromagnet isn't powering, or the biometric reader is corrupted or any of several things that adding electronics allows to go wrong.
It's just intolerable on firearms. On a car you can call AAA. You can't call 911 when you're dead.
imo
oh yeah, its nightmare tier shit, and an offensive to literally...everyone. but that stops someone who wants to make money....when?
There are a few companies that popped up after Armatix who are trying to get smart guns out but they're not going anywhere. There just isn't money to be made because gun owners generally think the same; electronics can fail, I don't want it. They'll sell 15 smartguns to panicking newguns in Malibu when the BLM riots get too close, but they're not going to reach a wide market because the market is distrustful of the technology.
It's akin to trying to get Americans on board with public transport lol people just don't want it.
It's the best replicant blaster available lol
But I have no idea, never had one or looked into them!
Well put. Opinion on the Charter Arms Bulldog?
Why would I tolerate a system that gets me close to where I want to go, sometime around when I want to go there, when—with a car—I can go anywhere I want, whenever I want?
Just think of how many interesting meth heads you could be stabbed by on the bus/train/tram! Don't you want those priceless life experiences? Move to your nearest big city today!
How do I clean a barrel with rust inside of it? It's not completely covered in rust, and I can remove a lot of it with a brush, but frick if I know how to stop it from coming back.
Reddish-orange deposits inside the barrel are probably copper, not rust, but—assuming you're right— soak the whole barrel in a rust remover like Evaporust and then keep it religiously cleaned/lubed and/or in a climate-controlled environment
The way it comes back after brushing even between shooting leads me to believe it is rust. I will give the evaporust a shot.
What PCC is easiest to convert to full auto theoretically?
AR platform with the forbidden third hole?
B&T USW-G with a full-fun backplate
9mm AR with a Lightning Link or 3D-printed DIAS
Grind off the tab inside the receiver of an Uzi carbine so that you can put in the full-auto open-bolt from an Uzi parts kit, there were a couple of other steps too. Mind the proper paperwork, or don't get caught, I'm not your boss.
Anyone know where I can find an FDE side charging upper?
Ive done some searching but so much is OOS or not the finish I want. I really don't want to bother getting it cerakoted just cause Im a prissy girl who wants a designer gun.
Side-charging uppers are gay. You are gay. Just get a gun that normally charges on the side and come in FDE, or have a nice day—I don't care.
You cared enough to comment.
How much shit are we talking? Are you absolutely sure you don't have *anywhere* to put them?
Ban state cuck here. Had to move to city for work, live in shitbox apartment, left al my stuff at cousin’s garage upstate. Now he’s moving and can’t keep my funs for me anymore. What do I do with them? I’d get a storage unit but they don’t allow booleets
I don’t want to sell them and I have nowhere to put them. Closest friend who can take them is the next state over. What do?
>inb4 you were cucked
I know, well at least my career is going well enough
We talking CA or NY? And how much stuff? Way more than could fit in your apartment, even going vertically?
NY hell, fren. I have a couple few, ya know. Little bit of a collection. I could squeeze them into the last cramped corner of my shitbox, I guess. But I’d be paranoid about getting in trouble since I’m a law-abiding upstanding citizen and it takes like 18 months to get a long rifle permit in the city. I guess it wouldn’t be an issue unless I got burglarized.
I guess you'd have to get them upstairs to the apartment, and that the conspicuously long containers might be an issue because of nosy neighbors. Making a drive out to that trusted friend in the next state might be the safest option, because it's probably no less convenient than having it in NY.
Do the highlighted parts of a revolver have a particular name? I know they are part of the frame. I don't mean the hammer.
>weird question. why?
I'm trying to make a little game with procedurally generated revolvers and I was wondering what to internally call those parts.
If there's no particular name then "frame back" and "frame bottom" will suffice, but I was curious.
Blue would be the yoke and crane but I don't think the frame area has any specific name. The names mostly refer to the part that tilts/swivels out with the cylinder.
Nice, thanks
Australian here, how the frick do I become a gunsmith? I have a few ideas for firearms that I want to design and manufacture.
do you have a range finder?
Garloid nymph.
does someone recognize what could it be? Its some kind of artillery cannon from WW1
nvm, found it, its ammunition waggon xD
I reshaped the feed ramp on a milsurp pistol to accept hollowpoints, is that bubba?
>is that bubba?
Depends. Did you do a good job or does it look like some crackhead went to town with an angle grinder?
Any apartment dwellers have any storage tips? I am on a second story walk up and getting a safe delivered is not happening and I really only need a locker for security.
Would a empty pelican, skb, etc transport case with a rack screwed into it be a smart way to store things, it could be re-purposed later on for general storage? I'm also looking at a stack on 18 gun cabinet but plan to move into a home and really don't see any need for one if I can have an actual safe. I have a dozen long guns in pelican cases stacked up in a closet now and I would like to store them in something a bit more accessible and with more airflow as I have been told foam is not good for long term storage.
Would bolting something to the floor violate the terms of your rental agreement?
Pelican, etc., cases are terrible for long-term storage because the open-cell foam attracts moisture and promotes rust.
Do m249 gunners carry extra barrels?
Extra barrels are carried, but not necessarily by the SAW gunner himself.
I've got a discount for Midway, anything worth buying over there?
Need mags for anything? Their Mec-gar prices are pretty good. They have nice house brand range bags too if you don't have one.
I'm good on mags, but I can attest to their in house materials, I've got some slings and misc baggies that have held up well, better than well for the price. I guess it's time I retire my old Ugly Stick duffel I use to carry stuff to the range.
/r/reddit/picks_n_shit/
IWI M118LR. haven't tried any yet.
Does anyone know a cheaper source for this stock? IIRC price was about $250 last I checked.
If you're not married to the AC556 aesthetic, these handsome underfolder stocks made with real AK hardware in Poland are available for $155 plus shipping from [email protected]
I like those a lot, but I'm looking for the B-TM specifically. I've known about the Polish AK underfolder 10/22 stock, however I own some beat up AK folders which I've used to make a mockup of a similar stock and I don't think I'd be able to get the right cheek weld for my scope when hunting. One of those Polish made 10/22 stocks is on my absurdly long "to buy" list but it isn't getting bought just yet. Thanks for the recommendation, though, anon.
Also, IMO they're a pretty good deal. Weird that they're so much cheaper when it seems they do such a good job refinishing an already pricey folding stock. AK underfolder stocks w/ hardware on their own are ~$75 from what I see, and that's without a polish, reblue, and hardware to attach it to some nice wood. Wonder what their profit per stock is like.
Should I buy it anons?
https://sightmark.com/products/accudot-223-5-56-nato-red-laser-boresight
Bullet lasers are neat, because they can also double as quasi practice rounds, but someone turned me on to those magnet bore sighters that just stick on to the muzzle and I haven't looked back.
link pls
Phew, more than I remember paying, the guy at the range gunsmithing shop sold me their used one for $60 in green. Beats fiddlefricking with the old in the barrel one I had, like I said, your call there's nothing wrong with the bullet ones.
https://www.wheelertools.com/promo/4th-of-july-sale/professional-laser-bore-sighter-red/580022.html
What torque should I tighten the screws that hold the Taurus TX22 comp. mounting plate on to? It shipped w/o loctite and so the first time I shot it it shook itself off. For reference my holosun was tightened to 15in/lbs onto the plate, and it stayed on just fine (Because it was loctite'd). Would you just do 15 for the plate too or is there any reason not to go higher?
1. Yes, obviously it should be loctited. All threaded fasteners subject to vibrations should be loctited.
2. Surely Taurus has a torque spec that they would happily share with you if you emailed them about it.
3. Failing that, 10–15 inch-lbs plus loctite should keep it secure, but make sure to witness mark those c**ts so you can see if it doesn't
Right. Email. That's a good idea. I checked the manual but it wasn't there. Thanks anon.
The manual only specifies 5.3 (!) inch pounds for the optic, not the plate. 15 inch pounds is way over spec for that, I'd be worried about stressing whatever chinesium has them suggesting such an incredibly low torque spec for that plate lol
I redid the screws that hold the plate to the barrel before I mounted an optic at 15 inch pounds, so far so good 2,000 rounds. It's not specified though. Good scope rings typically don't have torque specs over 15, the highest I've seen called for is 20 inch pounds. fwiw.
I haven't seen any so-good-you-buy-now prices at the moment, but almost anything you'll find in a store is good.
Did chestrigs exist before the Chinese made theirs? I think their Mosin chest rig might have came first, but I'm not sure. I guess the American grenade chest rigs that were used for shotgun shells in WWI count
I can't think of any specific examples, but I also can't imagine the Chinese doing anything original.
Well, appears the cheapest I could find is GrabaGun at $237.99 but shipping brings it up to nearly $270. Fug. https://grabagun.com/samson-manufacturing-corp-b-tm-folding-stock-for-ruger-10-22.html
Does Samson even have distributors for their Ruger stocks? I can't say I've ever seen them for sale any way besides DTC.
Appears that companies/sites are getting them cheaper somehow whether Samson is selling them direct to companies in bulk or there's one or more distributors. Samson is selling their B-TM for $279.99 in stainless and $300 in black on their site. Meanwhile, GrabaGun is significantly cheaper ($238 + ship). And CTD is garbage as usual. $300 for black and $280 for the stainless, holy shit. No one is even close to Samson's price other than CTD (which is higher by a little) which leads me to believe their profit margin is fricking insane. God damn, frick CTD.
Whoops, in my shitting on CTD I forgot to fix the part about GrabaGun. GaG is selling the stainless for $237.99 and the black for $284.99. (both with walnut stock)
no worries; shitting on CTD is an end in itself
frick those motherfrickers
Only thing CTD is good for is knowing what obsolete bullet can be made from what on one page
Any full-sized pistols worth getting right now? Just range toy kind of stuff. Also, are the S&W M&P series any good?
Yes and yes (at least as good as any Glock clone can be)
Atlantic Firearms safe to buy from?
No, they will find your dog and frick it.
Big C works at Atlantic?
I bought my AUG from them and I have yet to suffer any ill effects
Does your dog walk all moronic now, though? Heard they do that sort of thing. Guess that's the price you(r dog) pay(s) for the deals you get.
yes
I've ordered from them before. Cat hasn't been shot, credit card wasn't stolen and my rectum is still intact.
No crazy deals that stand out. Glock 20 has been calling my name lately though. I might buckle.
my ccw class is this weekend is there anything hilarious i can do to make it more fun.
Are there Strichtarn gloves that have all 5 fingers, instead of the 4 finger mitten style?
What exactly kills helicopter pilots on impact when they crash? I know this may sound like s stupid question but it seem so inconsistent. You hear stories from Vietnam Huey pilots who crashed multiple times and were recovered, but the pilots in Super 61 in Mogadishu were killed instantly on impact.
They have massive helmets so I don't assume its head trauma, do they just break their spine? What the frick happens?
Is getting a shotgun with a pistol grip worth it? I'd primarily be using it for the range or home defense, with a bit of hunting down the line.
Trying to decide between Benelli M4 Tactical, Beretta 1301 Tactical and FN SLP MK I Tactical. Would like to have some sort of rail on the hand guard for a light.
For a military rifle shooting competition I'm looking for a cheap alternative: all of the rifles that are accurate enough seem to be5K+ USD.
>AI AX
>Barrett MRAD
>B&T APR
>Desert Tech SRS
>FN Ballista
>Sako TRG
>Steyr SSG
Are there any cheaper alternatives?
Note that actual military rifles, as well as prototypes considered for adoption, as well as ivilian derivations thereof, are all eligible. So technically, this 4K (!) rifle would be my cheapest option so far:
https://www.gaprecision.net/us-army-m-24.html
Due to training costs I'd prefer .308, but other calibers are fine (up to 8mm). Accuracy required: the 10-ring is 28mm, we're shooting at 100m, so just a hair over 1 MOA, with 30 shots in a match, from a bipod, prone.
That seems awful expensive for not that high of an accuracy standard.
How exactly do the rules work? Could you use a civillian model Winchester model 70 or Remington 700 configured similar to a military variant? Or does it have to be a real M24 or M40?
Yeah, 1 MOA would be easy nowadays even with a 2K rifle, maybe even possible with 1K and a bit of tuning/handloading. The rules state (translated to English):
>Any rifle which meets article 2.1 (center-fire, maximum caliber of 8mm) and is in use or has been in use with any armed regular unit of the armed forces of a recognised or previously recognised nation*.
>Prototypes or rifles that were developed with the intent of being added to the armament of a nation** are also eligible, as are the direct civilian derivations of any of these.
>Original versions only, no modifications, unless listed below (e.g. bipod).
And then there's a whole list of other rules that boil down to: don't cheat.
*Apparently, selling a rifle to Sealand and having them adopt it doesn't count.
**Rifles developed by a nation, not some hopeful enterpreneur's dream.
I think the rules are still somewhat open to interpretation. For example, when it says "original versions only, no modifications", does that mean that YOU are not allowed to modify the rifle compared to how it came from the factory? Or does it mean that the configuration must be identical to the original military one?
For example, given that the M24 exists we know that the Remington 700 is a legal model. Would you be required to shoot a factory clone of an M24? Or could you buy a generic hunting or target model 700 as that is a "direct civilian derivation"? If the latter is legal then you could pick up a Remington 700 police or varmint model for under $1000 easily.
Yeah, exactly. Assuming a strict interpretation I need to look for cheaper alternatives, assuming a wider interpretation I could go with a regular R700 (although I'd certainly prefer something nicer).
I know /GQ/ has a chart for decent plate carriers, but I never see any mention of Varusteleka. Their Sioen seems decent but expensive for what it is. Would this make a good first plate carrier?
You're right, charging $400 for a JPC 2.0 clone is insane.
I've got a revolver with a bit of rust on it, around the S&W logo and the cylinder release. How should I go about cleaning the rust off?
With cum