Didn't see one in the catalog, so I'm making it.
Just bought my first gun, seems like it's got a little cosmoline left on it. Do I need to clean it before I shoot it, or is it going to work fine?
QTDDTOT
Didn't see one in the catalog, so I'm making it.
Just bought my first gun, seems like it's got a little cosmoline left on it. Do I need to clean it before I shoot it, or is it going to work fine?
What’s the closest scope to ELCAN and SUSAT in terms of look,
ELCAN
It'll probably be fine, but the stuff they put on it after manufacturing is oil focused on corrision prevention. There is also a chance that there's some shit still in it from machining. Usually I clean my new guns before going shooting, just so I know everything is fine, but you don't have to, it'll almost certainly work perfectly fine.
Iam pretty sure they clean them before applying oil and shipping out.
I've found machining chips in guns before.
What gun? New? Surplus?
My WASR fricking killed me with that. They're single stack and thumbhole when they're imported and get converted over here. Furniture probably gets shipped back to Romania and they put the gun in a jig and mill out the magwell. Holy frick were those chips SHARP. And there were a lot of them.
>What gun?
The funny hue shotgun pistol.
>New?
Yes.
I'd open it up, give it some new oil, and brush out anything hardened with a toothbrush or nylon brush. Get said nylon brush from Dollar Tree, automotive aisle, $1.25/3 brushes, assortment of nylon/brass/steel. Don't use either metal brush on anything that isn't rusty; brass is as far as I go on guns and that's really only on rusted up guns. Doesn't sound that bad. I wasn't sure if you meant "cosmoline" (new gun grease) or actual cosmoline; the latter can be rock hard and require much more work to remove.
What should I load in my AR for HD? 14.5" barrel if that even matters
Hollow points or some other frangible ammunition are generally recommended, so I've heard. The last thing you want is to overpenetrate and kill some neighbor's kid.
Easy answer is to find out what rifle ammo your local LEO uses. Typically is Winchester Ranger or whatever they call Black Talon these days. If shit goes sideways you can always say you were using what the cops use. Surprisingly effective argument.
No kidding? This stuff says it is a penetrator? I won't be worrying about barriers or any of that it will be in my house at almost point blank range.
Nta, but the risk of overpenetration is grossly over emphasized. The total angle of possible bystanders to hit is vanishingly small and nobody has been able to produce a single event where a civilian defensive shooting scored a wounding hit on a bystander.
Pretty much any ammo will be fine.
It's not the woundings I'd be worried about.
I appreciate that but I don't think I need penetrators when I'm just defending my house. Should I look for something milspec?
Milspec wants penetration.
Something with a light/fast bullet weight to ensure frag and a JHP/JSP like Federal Champion 55 gr JSP
So those rounds will frag even going through a wall or door, whatever?
I'll probably go thru both, if its designed to go through people it'll go through drywall and 2x4s. But the odds of it stopping short are better with faster and lighter
I know you're a young gun, but box o truth went though all of this.
Why would a round that's designed to frag go through a person? Isn't it supposed to stop inside?
Its designed to frag inside a 12"+ thick person. Not a 1/2" sheet of gypsum/particle board.
Versus the milspec rounds that are designed to go through people?
They're all designed to go through people. Milspec is People+
If you're looking for a round thats designed to be stopped by drywall try airsoft. Or buy whatever you want, because you apparently dont care to listen.
I am looking for a good HD round I just didn't like the idea of buying LEO penetrator rounds. If all the rounds are going through the walls I just want something that inflicts the most damage on whoever is in my house. Again, with a 14.5" barrel of that even matters
I told you, with the caveat that all AR rounds are going to pen drywall
Jesus
You're not helpful at all this isn't philosophy I just want good ammo to shoot out of a 14.5 inch barrel and defend my home
Thanks anon
Do not shoot green tip if you are worried at all about overpenetration (don't live alone in a cabin in the woods). LEO shoot it for barrier penetration like people behind a door or in a car, knowing they'll get off a lot easier than you would if it overpenetrates into a future doctor next door.
My recommendation for stopping power would just be any semi premium hunting ammo you can get a hold of like Winchester super X for really aggressive expansion and fragmentation. But really anything that isn't bulk target ammo is fine .223 kills from velocity anyways so you just need something to reliably shoot that doesn't overpenetrate and cause liability.
ELCAN is pretty unique but aren't SUSAT clones around? A TA33 would look kinda close if you squinted at a distance.
Sweet thanks anon, so .223 defensive loads are just as viable as 5.56? I figure I'd want something on the heavier side size the twist rate of my barrel is 1/7
*since the twist rate
It should stabilize well enough especially at home defence ranges but YMMV. You should always shoot a few boxes of the ammo you plan to keep loaded to see things like accuracy, point of impact, reliability, stabilization in your specific setup.
My idea with .223/5.56 defensive ammo is unless you're looking for something exceptional like penetrating armor or barriers then it's fine. As long as your ammo runs reliably in your gun and doesn't pose a risk of overpenetration then it's suitable. This means basically any ammo that isn't fmj and/or bulk target ammo is fine. Most people would recommend something like the premium defensive loads out there but I'm of the opinion that there's no point in spending the extra money when soft points are fine.
I like how well soft points fragment when I shoot them into water over the 5 or so pieces a hollow point copper will make, plus they can't get plugged by clothing like a hollow point can and being cheaper means I can shoot more often. It isn't like defensive handguns where you're trying to squeeze as much performance as you can out of a short barrel and lower pressure cartridge since even a standard .223 load pushes out over three times the energy the best 9mm ones can, which is probably why even shooting fmj is considered acceptable stopping power and you mostly want expanding ammunition so when it punches through drywall it has less energy to continue into someone.
An LCP max is smaller, lighter, a good bit cheaper, and might even have more stopping power with a good .380 load on account of the longer barrel. They're reliable enough unless you get a lemon you can get swapped out so the real question would be are you specifically looking for the advantages a carry revolver has like never jamming and always in battery for firing through the pocket of a bathrobe.
If it puts clean holes in paper at close ranges that means it's stabilized right? Gonna test for sure
I'm sorry I shouldn't have said you weren't helpful thanks anon I appreciate you
Look for frangible ammunition, simple as.
Soliciting suggestions on an entry level side-by-side 12ga for trap/skeet. Budget at or under $1k
I'm moronic.. I meant over-under
If at all possible see if you can save up for around $2k. At that price point you can consider a Beretta Silver Pigeon or a Browning Citori, those are what people generally consider entry level for serious clay shooting.
At or around $1k I'd be looking for a used Miroku. Miroku (Japs) make damn good guns, they're just not very well known so they don't command a super high price. They make the Citori for Browning. Other than that you've got various flavors of Turkshit which I do not recommend.
What this guy said
But also check out ATA Arms. Theyve recently started making Beretta 686 clones since the patent expired recently. They're also using old Beretta tooling, got to frick around with one recently at a competition and they're not AS nice as beretta made ones, they're less than half the price. Absolute best bang for your buck in the O/U market imo
I own two FNX45 tacticals. I've owned one for a little over a year now and I just traded a rifle for a second FNX45 tactical plus cash.
I feel like I should sell one or trade it out for something else because it seems like a waste of resources to hold on to duplicate non collector guns. But I still want to keep the spare FNX45 tactical.
Do you guys battle with this as well? How would you justify holding onto a duplicate gun that really isn't that special (besides being the best .45acp created).
You should probably clean it, stuck cases were a perennial problem because of old cosmoline in the chamber. Makes the action smoother if it isn't all gummed up as well.
foxes be all like haha this unnatural object is nonetheless surely safe to step on
Is gif related supposed to be General Shinseki?
>if i open my double barrel too quickly it wont close and i have to remove the forend to close the barrels
what do?
You tell us, you're the one able to examine your gun. We can't magically figure out what's wrong with a gun we can't see. You haven't even told us what kind of gun you have. What model is it? Does it have ejectors or extractors? Are you sure the problem is related to speed and not how far you are opening the action?
Has anybody shot one of the Ruger New Bearcat revolvers? I'm looking for a fun little plinking handgun and this has kind of caught my eye
I haven't shot one but the guy at the Academy desk said the Ruger 22s were head and shoulders above stuff like the Heritage revolvers. At the time they were about $50 difference in price. Not sure what they are today.
I'm curious and wanted to know if anyone has ever made a fully functioning gun out of african hardwood? Other then the springs I'd think someone could do it and I think it would be kinda funny
why are there two qtdddtot
LCP Max or S&W 642/638 Airweight for pocket carry?
Fullsize or commander sized 1911 for shooting with a suppressor?
bump