Right after the check valve leading into our house the pipe broke. The plan is to cut the pvc just below where the reducer is, put on another PVC to PEX reducer and throw in a pex pipe check valve. Will this work or am I missing something? Can't waste too much money here.
>house
ok Black person "modular home" Have anything to contribute?
Ooooh grumpy…plumbing…wifes b***hy…long day….cold
>ok Black person "modular home"
>Have anything to contribute?
Why did it break? House shift? In the OP pic, it looks like the PVC above the check valve doesn't line up. Might want to think about a fix that includes a connection with some flexibility.
My guess is it froze…the line coming down thru the floor have alot of free play usually
What an absolutely disgusting spectacle
>Plastic
Frick you op, frick you
>Sharkbitd
I'm about to puke, absolute garbage
420F BRAZE IT gayGT
I replaced corroded shutoff valves with sharkbites under my sink.
They are nice.
but I put them on copper, in a house I own.
I've use them twice, and one leaked.
Also iirc the oring dryrotts after a decade or two.
Easy fix….add heat tape
Put another section in check valve install fernco
based plumber humor
you'll be fine doing that, you only LEGALLY need a check valve so if you're really poor don't worry about it. city only inspects when being built
also I doubt you own a pex gun, but if you do based. assuming you don't cause you're poor and not a plumber and they're like 400$. home depot sells shark bite fittings that simply push onto pex and are super reliable
actually remembering they also sell sharkbite waterheater hose type things that come in 3/4 and can be threaded on the otherside to screw into a pvc female
Already has sb on top
Pull that piece out of sb
Cut below check valve install reducer connect it up
Using a longer section of pipe
I see the sharkbite check valve is 150 PSI, 50 PSI less than what is there now. Hoping that wont be a problem. Already have the tool to unlock sharkbite stuff too. My main concerns are the check valve PSI rating being slightly lower and ive never done PVC to pex. I appreciate your insight.
thats the plan, with a $20 check valve thrown in.
Be sure and clean pipe and threads with Muratic acid first
Applause for a man that figures it out…
Poll:
How many trips did OP make to the supply store before finished?
I say 2…he seemed quite capable
>before finished?
before he finished you fricking white trash ebonics speaking nitwit
Oh settle down princess.
You sound as frustrated as a moron in a spelling b
Hang on...you've already got a sharkbite adapter on one side. Wouldn't it be cheapest to remove the fitting from the brass reducer and just reinstall a chunk of replacement PVC? You don't even have to replace the sharkbite. Or is that wonky, crooked, lower connection also leaking?
Got a related issue.
Mains water runs through what I think is a 3/4 inch galvanised pipe that's heavily corroded and leaking.
I could use a hard set compound, but I'm not sure if it would hold up underground.
I could use a compression coupling but I'm unsure if the pipe is now too corroded.
What's the play here?
How corroded?
All the way?
Trenchless pipe replacement
We're in the garden so if needed I could lay a whole new poly pipe
Wise move since you presumably don't want to do it twice.
It's a dollars and cents issue, I don't want to fool around laying and entire line of pipe because one piece has a pinhole leak.
There are many ways I could go about this, and I'm really asking the experienced plumbers how much I should invest in the repair
the only difference is if you're buying a 20' stick of poly or 1', pretty negligble in the scope of things as far as pricing goes. sure it's more digging.
i'd replace any galvy pipe I could, it's just gross once it starts coroding and will clog fixtures and leave sediment in your waterheater making it less efficient
you can also just get a saddle clamp over the leak if that's all you care about
if you own your home though and the piping is that old, it's probably worth it to start saving up for a repipe.
Yea you're probably right, diminishing returns trying to repair it
Pex is no. You can’t use it outside.
the only problem with pex outside is the sun will corrode the plastic and supposedly make it brittle. I've seen sticks that have been outside, in the sun for 10+ years with no insulation through yearly freezes and they're still working, if discolored. It's easy to fix stuff like that anyway.
In my state, which has no union, most counties don't enforce having to put insulation on outdoor pex.
We'll run it for meter conections and vertical out of the ground to a shutoff and PRV then horizontal into the wall at ~18in.
They're freakin adamant about the presure relief valves though, gosh forbid anyone get more than 75 PSI
Having dug up the gal it Turns out unlicensed plumbers had just been capping off, rejoining and recapping the same corroded gal for decades. Roots everywhere, pipe fricked. Some is poly, some is gal, some is copper, some is like... really tiny copper so that's where I was losing all my water pressure. Fricktards had bottle necked the mains line installing bullshit taps.
So I've got no leak, but no water at all down in the garden and this has now become a huge job.
Frick frick shit, now I understand why for 30 years nobody wanted to do this properly
why not unthread the check valve?