plastic alternative for a project?

plastic alternative for a project?

i need a complex shaped structure for a project, i already made it in my 3d printer, sadly it doesn't hold the temperature requirement (~150c)

so i thought about using the 3d printed shape to make a mold but i don't know what to put in it.

im looking for something with the same strength and weight as regular plastic that can sustain 150c without melting, preferably something that don't require melting before being molded

250 Piece Survival Gear First Aid Kit

LifeStraw Water Filter for Hiking and Preparedness

250 Piece Survival Gear First Aid Kit

  1. 2 months ago
    Anonymous

    How long does the part need to last? Consider printing in nylon which should withstand that temp if it’s a thicker part but may struggle a bit if it’s thinner, is a pain to print with if you’ve never done it, and may fail over a long period of time in high heat. Or farm it out and have someone with a fancy expensive ass sls printer make it out of inconel, which will easily withstand that temp but this could be a bit pricey

    • 2 months ago
      Anonymous

      >How long does the part need to last?
      the 150 degree is a peak maximum temp, it will only reach it for few seconds at a time, realistically, 2-3 times per day, the rest of the time it will be at ambiant temp

      • 2 months ago
        Anonymous

        Wood meets your specs-

        https://fireproofdepot.com/what-temperature-does-wood-ignite/

        • 2 months ago
          Anonymous

          its a complex shape and im far from being a wood expert

          • 2 months ago
            Anonymous

            As complex as the shapes in picrel? Because those do about 20 minutes in 350° F oven and they're made out of gingerbread.

            does it need to be thin? clay? air dry not this shit
            print in ASA? 250C
            fiberglass would be good if you want to mess with it.
            plaster mask strips can be bought ready to shape
            paper mache, like newspaper and flour paste if you're poor. make thick and paint or resin, lacquer.

            there are a dozen things that are "not plastic" hard to guess what would be good without knowing what the frick it's for.

            is correct, there's all kinds of materials including common plastics like nylon ( 220-265 degrees Celsius melting point ) that won't melt or ignite at 150°C....paper will survive the temperature/ time specs you list.

            But without knowing any of the other parameters involved besides "complex shape" and "fabrication has to be within my existing skill set" there's little point in trying to guess one that will work.

            • 2 months ago
              Anonymous

              Forgot picrel

          • 2 months ago
            Anonymous

            You just whittle away the wood you don't want to get left with the wood you do want. Look what wooden pipes are made of, it's probably some hardwood. A couple decent whittling knifes and a sharpening stone will last forever and it is a cool hobby.

            • 2 months ago
              Anonymous

              i need the shame to be accurate

          • 2 months ago
            Anonymous

            A trim router would be your friend. You could 3d print jigs if needed. It's like a handheld cnc.

      • 2 months ago
        Anonymous

        Still say nylon would do it if your printer could handle it. Inconel if you want peace of mind, protolabs will give you a free quote for that

  2. 2 months ago
    Anonymous

    Fill the mold with concrete and glass fiber shards,
    Or fill it with potter’s clay (with or without glass) let it dry and go on tinder and find some chick that works at one of those one-day “paint your own mug” or “owl figurine” and use her for her kiln access and get it fired into vitreous porcelan or ceramic. Good for 1000 deg C.

    Plastic is a fricking shit material. But at least it’s cheap.

    • 2 months ago
      Anonymous

      does it need to be thin? clay? air dry not this shit
      print in ASA? 250C
      fiberglass would be good if you want to mess with it.
      plaster mask strips can be bought ready to shape
      paper mache, like newspaper and flour paste if you're poor. make thick and paint or resin, lacquer.

      there are a dozen things that are "not plastic" hard to guess what would be good without knowing what the frick it's for.

    • 2 months ago
      Anonymous

      >But at least it’s cheap.
      Plastic isnt cheap at all. Why would you say such an asinine lie?
      You know whats cheap? Plastic bags. Plastic packaging, because you are talking about tiny amounts of material.
      Plastic as a bulk material costs several thousand dollars per ton

      • 2 months ago
        Anonymous

        Yeah, somebody did an analysis of some little plastic bins to buy them vs. to 3d print them. It's like 4 times the cost to print them in plastic filament alone. Not to mention the time (hours) the cost of the printer, and the quality is shit.
        He ended up just buying the injection molded bins instead. As is the case for everything.

        The only reason for a 3d printer is sex toys you're too embarrassed to go buy, and maybe guns or other illegal shit. In case you think plastic PVA guns are really a thing, LOL.

      • 2 months ago
        Anonymous

        Yeah, somebody did an analysis of some little plastic bins to buy them vs. to 3d print them. It's like 4 times the cost to print them in plastic filament alone. Not to mention the time (hours) the cost of the printer, and the quality is shit.
        He ended up just buying the injection molded bins instead. As is the case for everything.

        The only reason for a 3d printer is sex toys you're too embarrassed to go buy, and maybe guns or other illegal shit. In case you think plastic PVA guns are really a thing, LOL.

        fricking morons
        of course anything mass produced via injection molding is a fraction of the price
        this isn't some mind blowing revelation you cucks

        now price out a custom designed small run part and use your big smarts to show how it would be cheaper to source out

        • 2 months ago
          Anonymous

          The point is you'd probably get better looking parts if you got a block of ptfe, bakelite, or delrin and C'nC'ed it.

      • 2 months ago
        Anonymous

        ok but now tell me about manufacturing costs with hdpe vs other materials

        • 2 months ago
          Anonymous

          HDPE and PLA is basically one (tiny) step up from hot glue.
          It's the lowest of the low as far as performance, it's only good for making chibi figurines covered in lines.

          • 2 months ago
            Anonymous

            hdpe is literally used for everything, we're not talking about your 3d meme printer

  3. 2 months ago
    Anonymous

    try mix some DIY starlite, coat the plastic and torch it to form the intucement protection

  4. 2 months ago
    Anonymous

    Kapton tape?
    Aluminum foil?

  5. 2 months ago
    Anonymous

    Silicone mold and then pour jesmonite ac730 and coat with flexiguard sealer

    t. guy that makes artsy candle holders

  6. 2 months ago
    Anonymous

    A lot of Nylons have service temperatures of over 150, higher if you get glass or carbon fiber impregnated. Just print that if your printer can handle it.

  7. 2 months ago
    Anonymous

    Thanks doc

  8. 2 months ago
    Anonymous

    if you can describe your item or show a picture of the 3d printed version, we could probably do a better job suggesting a material

    • 2 months ago
      Anonymous

      This. Depending on how complex the geometry is you could probably build it out of wood or metal easily. If not, then cast it out of some metal.

  9. 2 months ago
    Anonymous

    cnc aluminum

  10. 2 months ago
    Anonymous

    I see two differents option

    FIRST
    You leave your shit FDM printer and go resin (SLA) printer. Some resin can actually withstand over 150 °C (siraya tech has two for 170 and 250 °C, google it)
    Then you 3D print it again

    2nd : mold it.
    Here i see two option again if you don't want to melt anything :
    Silicon, some silicon are very hard, near to what a car tire can be
    epoxy resin. Some are special "heat resistant" ones, a bit expensive tho. Again, they can go up to 250°C max +/-

    Don't try to "mold" 3D printer resin : they are UV cured, so you can only really cure the surface, don't work on anything too thick

  11. 2 months ago
    Anonymous

    How about show the shape if you already have it made?

  12. 2 months ago
    Anonymous

    Aluminium via los pla casting

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