I have stainless OPINEL no.7 in the Azores, humid and damp too. The damn knife won’t open most of the time since the wood swells and it becomes useless. I’ve tried tiny dabs of oil but it’s almost a moot point.
use a stainless knife on a dairy farm or vegetable farm without maintenance and it will look like SHIT after about 4 days. It will also be blunt as frick because the nature of the work
So I use carbon steel in UK farmwork. I have a very small sharpening stone to touch it up with. for a while I used a nail file to shine it up on the sides.
the only drawback about opinel is when you lose one you also lose a lot of maintenance and then have to find a store that sells another.
These knives can become useless if the wood swells, because the wood is in direct contact with the hinge.
So the context is usually the determinant here, if your knife is likely to get wet then an opinel really isn't the knife you want at all.
I advise against carbon blades unless there's a compelling reason you need one. I'm a chef and sharpen my c100 stainless knives ten times a day and even for me this is only a minor inconvenience. If I don't use carbon under those conditions I'm going to say that most people don't.
A traditional carpenter wants carbon steel planes, a sashimi chef or more realistically a process worker, an actual samurai who kills actual people....its neiche.
In almost all cases, the advantage of corrosion resistance is far more valuable than the minor inconvenience of slower sharpening.
Stainless, the UK is very damp and the air is humid. A carbon blade is not going to fare well here at all.
Plus, stainless doesn't need maintaining so no worries
Learn how to take care of a blade.
People used carbon, and worse for centuries.
Go with carbon as it's cheaper, and learn how to take care of the steel, and a wooden handle.
Yeah I'm gonna agree with this. I've used carbon opinels with all kinds of liquids even leaving stuff on the blade for weeks and they've always been fine.
>Learn how to take care of a blade.
I am not here to serve the knife; it is here to serve me. I am not going to take it out for scheduled maintenance, I have better things to be doing. I am going to stash it in my bag and I expect it to work when I look for it - it could be months between uses.
All I do is wash and wipe it down with a cloth and it never has problem for me
I'm humid on the coast, but not hot I've oiled it maybe once a year,
Same with my carbon kitchen knives but I don't really oil them except when I get a new one. It's really just about not letting liquid sit on the blade. The rest is negligible. And if it gets a patina, so what
All you need to do is patina it. If it rusts after that, you're letting actual water or debris sit on it. Cleaning your knife off isn't "maintenance", it's just not being a filthy butthole.
Yeah I don't think you've ever used a carbon blade. Anyone who says this is repeating a meme, carbon is fine getting wet- even if you don't clean it off it'll be fine unless you wait months or something.
>carbon is fine getting wet
Left my timberjack in its leather sheath, outside my tent and it had morning israelite and rust on it already.
Cleaned up well though
Thank you for that explanation that we definitely asked for
11 months ago
Anonymous
It proves the point.
All these guys living in dry environments saying "muh carbon steel never rusts, especially when I use [brand of oil] on it hurr hurr" don't know what living in a truly damp place does to things.
Carbon steel rusting isn't a meme, even if you patina your blade to o3 it. The reason is that water is not all equal, sweat for example is seriously corrosive, as is the carbonic acid in stagnant water sources, even rain water is mildly acidic.
>I'm a chef and sharpen my c100 stainless knives ten times a day and even for me this is only a minor inconvenience. If I don't use carbon under those conditions I'm going to say that most people don't.
Most people in the industry do use carbon steel, myself and everyone I know/work with included. It holds it's edge better and longer than stainless, so you don't have to sharpen your knife 10x a day, and it takes half the time to sharpen. Maybe get someone to teach you how to properly maintain the victorinox fibrox you got in your apprentice kit & stop talking shit chef.
You're missing my point, the maintainance on a Carbon blade is a serious consideration. If you're using the same blade all day, every day you might decide that the maintainance is marginal- but some chefs still use Carbon especially for blades they don't use often.
So if you're using your blade for 20 minutes a day or less its just stupid to get a Carbon blade because you'll be maintaining it longer than you actually use it for. If it's a desk knife for hobby work (like a carpenters chisel) then go Carbon.
Many chefs chose knives as a matter of prestige, the habbit maketh not the monk.
>I'm a chef and sharpen my c100 stainless knives ten times a day
Do you mean like full on sharpening with a stone or something, or just honing with a steel/ceramic stick?
Just using steel. Use steel to maintain the edge, use stone to maintain the bevel. I'd go as far as to say that a stone should only be used if there's actually a problem with your bevel.
My point however is that regardless of what a chef should or shouldn't do, if chefs can get away with using stainless then the choice for a pocket knife is obvious.
>I'm a chef and sharpen my c100 stainless knives ten times a day and even for me this is only a minor inconvenience. If I don't use carbon under those conditions I'm going to say that most people don't.
Most people in the industry do use carbon steel, myself and everyone I know/work with included. It holds it's edge better and longer than stainless, so you don't have to sharpen your knife 10x a day, and it takes half the time to sharpen. Maybe get someone to teach you how to properly maintain the victorinox fibrox you got in your apprentice kit & stop talking shit chef.
>I'm a chef and sharpen my c100 stainless knives ten times a day
Do you mean like full on sharpening with a stone or something, or just honing with a steel/ceramic stick?
Sandvik 14C28N is the only steel you'll ever need for general PrepHoledoors activities such as bushcraft; tough & rust-proof, it's perfect as long as you don't mind (and, in fact, enjoy) a few passes across a stone or strop in the field once in a while (it's rather easy to sharpen).
>14C28N
That‘s the steel I have on my button lock Elementum. Very fine grain structure, sharpens to a mirror polish, holds an edge for a good, long time and is very corrosion resistant.
Does Ruike heat treat their knives right? And what‘s the blade geometry like? Looks to be a sabre grind, which I‘m not a fan of. 14C28N really benefits from a blade geometry that‘s really thin behind the edge, like a hollow or full flat grind.
This is why you're too much of a homosexual to be trusted with knives, because you're not only the type to seek a doctor for THAT, but also the type to take a picture of your wound like a woman. Take all of my derision -- consider it yours.
Stainless.
I have a 20 yo carbon Opinel I'm fond of but I don't use it anymore.
Carbon + wood + hard to disassembly is not a good combination.
If you want a simple carbon folder get a Svord Peasant.
A seat belt helps avoid death, and in a lot of places you get stopped for not using one. A hand guard stops you from making a mistake you should have known better than to make in the first place.
I've never used a knife with a guard, and I've never been hurt due to that. But if I did let my hand slip you can be certain it would only happen once.
Just picked up a stainless No8, mostly because the shop had it with an oak handle and there's no branding for me to sand off. Might order a carbon so I can compare the two.
>carbon steel is annoying to maintain and will rust if you're not careful >stainless steel just doesnt rust
What sounds better for PrepHole activities?
stainless.
carbon
Buck 110
I have both carbon steel and stainless, and it's hard to choose.
I guess carbon steel would be easier to sharpen
Carbon. I wax my knifes blade to keep its condition, and its far better than stainless.
Stainless, the UK is very damp and the air is humid. A carbon blade is not going to fare well here at all.
Plus, stainless doesn't need maintaining so no worries
I have stainless OPINEL no.7 in the Azores, humid and damp too. The damn knife won’t open most of the time since the wood swells and it becomes useless. I’ve tried tiny dabs of oil but it’s almost a moot point.
use a stainless knife on a dairy farm or vegetable farm without maintenance and it will look like SHIT after about 4 days. It will also be blunt as frick because the nature of the work
So I use carbon steel in UK farmwork. I have a very small sharpening stone to touch it up with. for a while I used a nail file to shine it up on the sides.
the only drawback about opinel is when you lose one you also lose a lot of maintenance and then have to find a store that sells another.
These knives can become useless if the wood swells, because the wood is in direct contact with the hinge.
So the context is usually the determinant here, if your knife is likely to get wet then an opinel really isn't the knife you want at all.
I advise against carbon blades unless there's a compelling reason you need one. I'm a chef and sharpen my c100 stainless knives ten times a day and even for me this is only a minor inconvenience. If I don't use carbon under those conditions I'm going to say that most people don't.
A traditional carpenter wants carbon steel planes, a sashimi chef or more realistically a process worker, an actual samurai who kills actual people....its neiche.
In almost all cases, the advantage of corrosion resistance is far more valuable than the minor inconvenience of slower sharpening.
Learn how to take care of a blade.
People used carbon, and worse for centuries.
Go with carbon as it's cheaper, and learn how to take care of the steel, and a wooden handle.
Yeah I'm gonna agree with this. I've used carbon opinels with all kinds of liquids even leaving stuff on the blade for weeks and they've always been fine.
Why would I bother when I can just use the stainless one though? The blade looks nicer anyway for what it's worth
>Learn how to take care of a blade.
I am not here to serve the knife; it is here to serve me. I am not going to take it out for scheduled maintenance, I have better things to be doing. I am going to stash it in my bag and I expect it to work when I look for it - it could be months between uses.
All I do is wash and wipe it down with a cloth and it never has problem for me
I'm humid on the coast, but not hot I've oiled it maybe once a year,
Same with my carbon kitchen knives but I don't really oil them except when I get a new one. It's really just about not letting liquid sit on the blade. The rest is negligible. And if it gets a patina, so what
>I refuse to maintain my gear
Your gear is likely shit and your forefathers would be ashamed
All you need to do is patina it. If it rusts after that, you're letting actual water or debris sit on it. Cleaning your knife off isn't "maintenance", it's just not being a filthy butthole.
here is your patina, bro
Congratulations on figuring out how to post with your intense developmental problems anon!
>people have used flint knives for centuries
Yeah maybe you should try using modern technology.
Yeah I don't think you've ever used a carbon blade. Anyone who says this is repeating a meme, carbon is fine getting wet- even if you don't clean it off it'll be fine unless you wait months or something.
>carbon is fine getting wet
Left my timberjack in its leather sheath, outside my tent and it had morning israelite and rust on it already.
Cleaned up well though
>outside my tent
Well there's your problem right there, anon. You can't stab the paralysis demon if your knife is outside the tent.
oh god, had this shit once. thought i would asphyxiate, literally couldn't breath
He left it outside the tent as you can do, and it went rusty. There we are
Thank you for that explanation that we definitely asked for
It proves the point.
All these guys living in dry environments saying "muh carbon steel never rusts, especially when I use [brand of oil] on it hurr hurr" don't know what living in a truly damp place does to things.
Carbon steel rusting isn't a meme, even if you patina your blade to o3 it. The reason is that water is not all equal, sweat for example is seriously corrosive, as is the carbonic acid in stagnant water sources, even rain water is mildly acidic.
You're missing my point, the maintainance on a Carbon blade is a serious consideration. If you're using the same blade all day, every day you might decide that the maintainance is marginal- but some chefs still use Carbon especially for blades they don't use often.
So if you're using your blade for 20 minutes a day or less its just stupid to get a Carbon blade because you'll be maintaining it longer than you actually use it for. If it's a desk knife for hobby work (like a carpenters chisel) then go Carbon.
Many chefs chose knives as a matter of prestige, the habbit maketh not the monk.
Just using steel. Use steel to maintain the edge, use stone to maintain the bevel. I'd go as far as to say that a stone should only be used if there's actually a problem with your bevel.
My point however is that regardless of what a chef should or shouldn't do, if chefs can get away with using stainless then the choice for a pocket knife is obvious.
Stainless steels like 12C27 and 14C28N are actually better than than carbon steels like 1095 and C100.
>I'm a chef and sharpen my c100 stainless knives ten times a day and even for me this is only a minor inconvenience. If I don't use carbon under those conditions I'm going to say that most people don't.
Most people in the industry do use carbon steel, myself and everyone I know/work with included. It holds it's edge better and longer than stainless, so you don't have to sharpen your knife 10x a day, and it takes half the time to sharpen. Maybe get someone to teach you how to properly maintain the victorinox fibrox you got in your apprentice kit & stop talking shit chef.
>I'm a chef and sharpen my c100 stainless knives ten times a day
Do you mean like full on sharpening with a stone or something, or just honing with a steel/ceramic stick?
>its neiche
is that unqualified worker for "It's niche"?
Carbon. And no. 8 or 9. Get’s some nice patina after a time what makes it unique and resistant.
Sandvik 14C28N is the only steel you'll ever need for general PrepHoledoors activities such as bushcraft; tough & rust-proof, it's perfect as long as you don't mind (and, in fact, enjoy) a few passes across a stone or strop in the field once in a while (it's rather easy to sharpen).
>pic related ruike jager f-118-g
>14C28N
That‘s the steel I have on my button lock Elementum. Very fine grain structure, sharpens to a mirror polish, holds an edge for a good, long time and is very corrosion resistant.
Does Ruike heat treat their knives right? And what‘s the blade geometry like? Looks to be a sabre grind, which I‘m not a fan of. 14C28N really benefits from a blade geometry that‘s really thin behind the edge, like a hollow or full flat grind.
That's a sharp looking edge
looks mean
how do you sharpen it?
Worksharp Ken Onion Edition
I'd say stainless just because they don't make my favorite model in carbon steel
>speedhole in the handle
It is ultralight model right?
Gardener model, I supose it is so you can put a string through
None can replace my number 8 carbonka2np0
I own both and I would go for stainless steel. I mostly use it with the Opinel Picnic as my mess kit, and I carry something bigger for my main knife.
I can‘t imagine these being good for much else than food prep and picnics.
inox for food, carbon for non-food
as if anyone uses moras for non-food anyway
its a kitchen utility knife
good luck batoning or making tent pegs with that thing
opinels*
not moras
those are actually good for proper PrepHole use
>wasting digits on willful ignorance
For shame
i do use my opinel no10 for skinning game
you can't use a folder for heavy duty anyways, i use my glock knife for that
>skinning game
also a domain where stainless would be much better in
Bought the No. 8 with a walnut handle. Very nice and good value at £12.
Yes very good, can confirm
Carbon if it's for me, stainless if I'm gifting it to someone that doesn't enjoy knife maintenance
i will take carbon, stainless is hard to be sharpened and more sharp carbon than stainless
I got the no.8 last week, the frickin handle is soo stiff to open, broke my fingernails. Any tips to loosen that b***h up?
the one hand opening trick
Get a Mora.
Keep opening it and closing it until it loosens, like you would have intuitively known as a 5 year old..?
I do. The blade starts to get so hot as to be too hot to touch.
How fast are you going anon good lord
H- he's fast!
anon-kun~ not so fast~~!
Get better fingernails you malnourished street child
Learn the Opinel knock. You bang the handle on something to get the blade started.
Good idea, it works well enough that way.
>Opinel
>Going to the hospital for a tiny flesh wound.
This is why you're too much of a homosexual to be trusted with knives, because you're not only the type to seek a doctor for THAT, but also the type to take a picture of your wound like a woman. Take all of my derision -- consider it yours.
I found it one google dot com and you missed the joke (see pictograph for clarity)
Well ya got me, but how was I to know.
My heart was in the right place; reprimanding a male for being ridiculous.
It's okay anon, we're both morons. We're all morons tbdesu
no.12 is bigger than i thought it'd be
depends if you want carbon or stainless
Stainless is really fine. Padoukwood is much better than standard birchwood handle. It doesn’t swell when wet.
Stainless for me
Stainless.
I have a 20 yo carbon Opinel I'm fond of but I don't use it anymore.
Carbon + wood + hard to disassembly is not a good combination.
If you want a simple carbon folder get a Svord Peasant.
No, don’t. Opinel are realy easy to disassemble.
Why the frick would you ever need or want to disassemble an opinel? Modern tacticool folders have ruined generations of men.
The handguard is missing what a bad knife.
The training wheels are missing from your bike, does that make a bad bike?
Training wheels don't have the same function as a handguard. Now compare a seat belt and a handguard.
A seat belt helps avoid death, and in a lot of places you get stopped for not using one. A hand guard stops you from making a mistake you should have known better than to make in the first place.
I've never used a knife with a guard, and I've never been hurt due to that. But if I did let my hand slip you can be certain it would only happen once.
And then everyone clapped!
You were proven to be a handguard-requiring sissy, if you didn't realise. You asked for it and you got it.
Opinels are poop knives.
There, I said it.
Just picked up a stainless No8, mostly because the shop had it with an oak handle and there's no branding for me to sand off. Might order a carbon so I can compare the two.
>carbon steel is annoying to maintain and will rust if you're not careful
>stainless steel just doesnt rust
What sounds better for PrepHole activities?
>applying a tiny bit of oil once in a while is annoying
Is your schedule so full that you don't have a moment to care for your tools?