>NOOOO WHAT DO YOU MEAN YOU'LL JUST GRAB THE APPROPRIATE SIZED WRENCH, YOU CAN'T DO THAT, BECAUSE YOU JUST CAN'T OKAY!?!?
>NOOOO WHAT DO YOU MEAN YOU'LL JUST GRAB THE APPROPRIATE SIZED WRENCH, YOU CAN'T DO THAT, BECAUSE YOU JUST CAN'T OKAY!?!?
>NOOOO WHAT DO YOU MEAN YOU'LL JUST GRAB THE APPROPRIATE SIZED WRENCH, YOU CAN'T DO THAT, BECAUSE YOU JUST CAN'T OKAY!?!?
i use picrel because i like to jack off with it. takes a while to get used to but feels much better.
cant do that with an appropriately sized wrench!
Damn where u buy talking channelock pliers mine never said shit to me
it's the budlight mixed with meth that does it
wrench when strong tightening is required (mechanics)
pliers when not so tightened (plumbing)
also wrench if you dont want to damage the finish
much easier to carry around 2 pairs of channellocks on the job than it is a million wrenches
just get pic rel
it clamps itself you only have to put pressure on one handle so it does not need grip strength and wont slip.
i carry the small version in my pocket every day at work that thing rules.
If you think their main use is turning nuts you're profoundly moronic.
Everything Knipex make is love.
No shit? That's almost the exact reason why I made this post you fricking idiots lol
So what is it used for
STUPID FRICKING Black person DETECTED
WHOOP
WHOOP
STUPID FRICKING Black person DETECTED
WHOOP
WHOOP
No, I don't know the name of it. I'd call it a wrench.
It's called a pipe wrench. It is designed for grabbing and twisting round stuff like pipes (hence the name). It's not good for nuts or bolts, as it will eventually round the nuts/bolt heads (see picture attached). For nuts and bolts, a regular or crescent wrench are better suited, because they fit way better.
Thanks
Those are channel locks (or, technically tongue in groove pliers). A pipe wrench is something different, but other than that, you are correct, they are not for tightening nuts.
>No, I don't know the name of it. I'd call it a wrench.
If you expect to use tools consider studying the subject. It pays off.
Do you know the name of this tool?
nice. that's great
slipjoints like that aren't meant for fricking nuts moron, adjustable wrenches are. slipjoints are for pipes and other large fittings
Glad you finally got the joke you daft fricking homosexual.
Both wrong!
You need the nut buster!
Allow me to interject
Kek I grabbed that one. It’s the same as the Irwins for ~$25. Kinda crazy that Lenox is $40.
I actually used it in a couple plumbing situations, especially big pvc stuff. It’s much nicer that marring shit with channellocks or grabbing a frickheug pipe wrench or crescent wrench in tight spots.
Also I really like the ratcheting quick adjust on the Irwin cobras and pliers wrench. Knipex is nicer overall, especially the Cobras, but can’t complain about the Irwins for the price, especially when they were selling the 8” and 10” Cobra knockoff set for $15 or $20.
I replaced my driveshafts u join with a pair of channel locks and a flat head screw driver on the side of i65 once. thats all the tools you ever need
Black person, shut the frick up. This is why the white man rules the planet
*israeli man
Ftfy
First step is to grab the crescent wrench so you can nicely round off the edges of a nut or bolt, then you can get a better grip with the channel locks and turn them quicker. They move like butter through a hot knife once you knock off those stupid fricking corners.
If you know how to use a Crescent they have less backlash than an open-end. Maintain thumb pressure on the worm gear, easy.
Yea, snug your hand all the way up the handle of a 12” crescent wrench and hold the screw with your thumb while you’re trying to crack loose a stubborn 1” nut but you have zero leverage at all since your hand is nowhere near the most effective spot to get leverage.
I may just be a shitposter, but replies like that are from armchair engineer Wera customers. If the fastener was so stubborn that you need to hold the thumb screw to keep the jaws tight, that also means you’re going to get no fricking torque, and it also means your hand and thumb are going to be in a super shitty position if/when you crack the nut loose and you shave the skin off 3 or 4 knuckles.
When I need additional leverage I use any of my many cheater pipes (stainless hydraulic tubing is outstanding being light and strong) and the hardware most in need of that isn't small enough to wipe out with an open end of any type so no holding required other than as final adjustment to remove slack before getting forceful. "Rock, roll worm, lock tighter" etc. Thumbing the worm also speeds disengagement and re-engagement on a different set of flats.
Force does not loosen the thumb screw, they don't move under load below that which damages the tool, they do move (on most loose Crescents especially the stuff sold after the company was bought out, I don't live far from their former SC plant) when UNloaded as the movable jaws tend to be sloppy.
My Snap-on 12" OTOH is glorious and never needs the worm held, but they're also over 150 bucks new.
I'm no armchair mech/tech and have been wrenching since the late 1970s, fixing fighters (comm/nav on Bronco and Phantom, engine troop and crew chief on F-16s), being a multibrand motorcycle mechanic, industrial mechanic and more. I've trained many techs formally and otherwise, taught at the local vo-tech and enjoy mentoring. The use of hand tools is a more sophisticated process than it appears. There are many subtle things one can do to work most efficiently.
>buy a $150 adjustable wrench and it will work
Funny how that changed
My ordinary wrenches work too. That was merely the ideal so I mentioned it. Is this too complex for you to understand? Stick to mud, rocks and random hunks of wood if you aren't smarter than your tools.
>hit someone else with the “well akshually” to nitpick what they said
>they nitpick you back
>noooo you’re a jerk!
There are two reasons you use an adjustable:
1) you don’t know what size you’ll need and don’t have easy access to bring multiple sized wrenches
2) you’re a hack
3) You have multiple-sized wrenches but sometimes need to grab surfaces with flats which are not made to suit wrenches or whose location in an assembly makes access horrible though it was not horrible for the assembly line workers who built the thing in a way requiring the equivalent of doing cataract surgery via the anus. Sometimes the extra length vs. smaller open ends is useful when preceding frickwits overtightened a fitting and you need a way to control a flat or angle metal bracket so your wrenching doesnt' bend it.
Adjustables with or without the aid of other tools like a large screwdriver through the eye
do expedient sheet metal restraint and bending every day.
4) Occasional need for 90-degree wrenches in smaller mobile tool kits.
In the case of some equipment 90-degree adjustable jaws are extremely useful which is why the classic Diamond Tool Company "Ford" wrenches etc were in most USAF crew chief and hydraulics troop flightline and inspection section boxes.
A competent user doesn't damage hardware even if what they're doing looks odd to noobs. I judge by results, not technique or tool (except common slip joint pliers which are abominations forged in the anus of Satan).
>except common slip joint pliers which are abominations forged in the anus of Satan
Yessss!!! I have been on this train for years. I do not understand why 3pc-5pc pliers kits come with slip joints or why anybody ever uses them. A pair of long nose, linesmans, and channellocks that come in the same kit do everything the slip joint pliers could possibly do but better.
Last time I used slip joint pliers was at the old house when a hose tap knob rusted and broke off and I didn’t care enough to replace it. I grabbed the slip joint and tied it to the hose outlet because I didn’t give a frick if it got rusty from sitting outside and I knew I would never need the pliers for another job somewhere else.
When 99% of people are using adjustables this way and not because “it’s like all the wrenches in one” I’ll add it to my list. Until then, adjustable wrench enthusiasm will continue to be my metric for who is and isn’t a hack
99% of people aren't mechanics, they're idiot garbage so whatever they do is shit with any tool. I've corrected enough of it as a mechanic.
Why is your metric for hackery not the individual instead of some tool? The average person is non-technical filth.
There's no reason to use old-fashioned crescent wrenches when these exist:
Dios mio, la creatura..
Robo Pliers disagree.
?t=16;mute=1
Based wrenchlet has never taken the same nut on and off multiple times
>americans need a collection of quick multi-fit wrenches because nobody knows wtf size a "seventeen hundreths seventy second inches" wrench is
It’s mostly the same, SAE only used a handful of common sizes under 1”/25mm unless it’s something really odd. I probably use more different metric sizes than SAE sockets on the average job. Small SAE and you know it’s a 1/4”, but small metric and you’re scratching your head wondering if it’s a sloppy 5mm, a worn 6mm, or are these buttholes really using a 5.5mm bolt? Shit like the Klein 11-in-1 driver are super useful because you can take apart a whole air conditioner with that one tool instead of a 15pc metric socket set.
>Non-American "people," are so unbelievably moronic, they can't instantaneously calculate, or memorize simple fractions
There are only two types of countries on this Earth, the one's that have been to the moon, and the one's that use metric
You’re high if you think American engineers don’t use primarily metric. No one in a design team is using Slugs, I promise.
I'm in aerospace. It's still imperial here. I'm guessing science is where to look for metric only.
Physics here, everyone uses their own their own systems which are not Meter-Kilogram-Seconds (eV vs. k for temperature, 10 different pressure systems, CGS, eV/c^2 for mass...).
>"fractions are so easy"
>says the man with 7 multigrips instead of a spanner set
How many hours do you need to work to afford one of each?