Needed a starter set of tools for as a first time homeowner so I spent $500 the past few weeks on new tools
I know Ryobi is the b***h brand that tradies love to shit on but it was on sale and I already had some batteries so it made sense
Ryobi 6-pack of starter tools - $199
>Impact Driver
>Drill Driver
>Sawzall
>LED flashlight
>circular saw
>mutlitool
>4ah and 2ah batteries + charger
Ryobi “two batteries + tool” deal - $130 [price glitched]
>2 4ah batteries + charger
>2 4ah batteries
>orbital sander + pads
Ryobi stick vacuum, tool-only NIB - $100 off FB market [probably stolen]
Ryobi impact rated bit 50pc kit - $10
Ryobi Dimond grit impact bits - $7
Milwaukee titanium drill bits - $10
I still have an old and busted 2ah battery from the old drill which is now permanently mated to the flashlight, for about $500 how did I do?
You’re going to spend a lot of money on batteries. The ryobi batteries are straight up garbage. The rule I use for cheap tools is if I can plug it in it’s probably ok to buy if it takes a battery buy a higher end product that will last longer.
Go for it.
Their tools are plenty good enough for DIYers, the HP stuff is 90% as good as high end Milwaukee or DeWalt for 50% of the price. Everybody who has them loves them. By far the best tool selection of the homeowner brands.
There are a couple autists who complain about the batteries because they changed the cell brand in the cheaper packs, so if you want to be an autist as well, spend an extra $10 per pack on HP batteries and they will still be far cheaper than Milwaukee,
Fwiw, I use the cheaper 4.0Ah packs in my HP 15” trimmer and edger and that thing goes hard on batteries, and they’re holding up fine after a year of weekly use.
>never used Ryobi
Bump for OP because Ryobi is fine
I used ryobi for years until I got tired of buying batteries. That’s how I know they suck. Their corded tools are fine though.
What yall think of that Denali branded stuff on Amazon. Made by Skil, apparently. Not sure if they can share Skil's batteries too.
Whats realistically bad about Ryobi batteries? Dont they all use the same samsung/lg cells anyay?
nothing, this guy is talking about the old pre-lithium shit
Supposedly the newest black body 4.0’s that are always <$100 for 2pks are now some Chinese cells, but the HP packs are still Samsungs or LGs. They still give you a 3 year warranty on them and I run my 4.0Ah $40 packs nice and hot every weekend and they’re still going so far. I still want to get HP packs for the HP yard tools though.
They’re probably Hart or cheaper Ryobi tier, but I wouldn’t want to buy more batteries from a new unknown brand that only sells half a doxen tools. Just get the damn Skil, they’re supposed to be nice for the money and the brushless kits are often super cheap.
Ive been eyeballing them ryobis since last year. Ive got no power tools, but a cordless driver/drill would come in handy
i've managed to drown one of my batts by leaving the tool outside during rain. tool was fine but those battery controllers are not waterproof
they seem to last a long time though. you'll find a more comfortable/expensive brand before you need replacement batteries
What specifically are you planning to do with these tools? Like what specific projects?
going to do some misc exterior stuff to start, fixing some windowsills
then redoing the living room as it's covered in paneling
next year I'm going to redo the backyard deck
One thing I will add about your choice…
If you can find the HP drill, impact, and sawzall kit for around the same price as the kit you posted, it might be worth considering. The 5.5” brushed circ saw is for like quick trims in plywood and maybe the odd 2x4 with no bevel. I got one od them for free and it’s nothing close to a 120V corded model or a modern brushless 7-1/4” or even 6-1/2”. The flashlights in kits like that are always just to add another piece and you probably already have a worklight that you like better. And a brushless HP sawzall will have a lot more balls.
Also while I shill for Ryob 18V tools, their consumables are crappy. The Milwaukee drill bits are straight, but I would get better driver bits than Ryobi. It doesn’t cost much more to get DeWalt or Milwaukee blades and bits that will last longer and make your tools better.
>Ryobi “two batteries + tool” deal - $130 [price glitched]
it's not a glitch, they run this deal often. I got their largest impact for "free" when I bundled it with a grinder+4ah battery that I was already going to buy
Nah, it was a glitch on their $99 “two batteries + a tool” deal. You could swap the tool out for another 2-pack of batteries and if you added a tool after it rang half price. Saw someone talking about it late one night and I placed the order and got a $60 orbital
sander half off. Tried something else the next morning and it had been patched
I really like it so far but I’m also not cleaning pet hair or after a chick. Cleans the whole house on one 4ah battery. Heard the roller doesn’t like long hair. I wouldn’t have paid full price but for half off new in box it was worth it
They had a $200 kit with the HP brushless impact and drill drivers but they came with the lowest spec’d batteries. All my research told me that for my intended light use, the HPs were overkill. I plan on setting up a workshop in the garage to make weekend personal projects and TikTok meme trash to sell on FB market. If I sell one or two of those it would justify the HP upgrades
>Ryobi cordless orbital sander
Worst tool I've ever purchased.
>Put on 60 or 80 grit disc
>put no pressure on it, just keep it balanced
>won't even sand drywall
>Put a slight amount of pressure on it to increase friction
>stops spinning
Replaced it with a corded dewalt variable speed orbital sander.
I started out with Ryobi but when I started using tools to make a living, gradually switched to Milwaukee.
The ryobi tools I haven't felt the need to replace:
>16ga nailer
>3 gal shopvac
>P721 LED work light
>One+ brushless oscilating multi-tool
>cordless was shit
>so I got corded
many such cases
for power hungry tools you can't beat corded
cordless just can't compete with 2.5+ kW of raw power
and if it's SERIOUS equipment you obv can't beat gas
>Ryobi stick vacuum
I've heard terrible reviews for this. Have you tried it yet? What do you think?
I don’t have the Ryobi vac, but I do have a Ridgid handheld 18V vac and I’m tempted to snag one of the 18V wet/dry vacs from either Ryobi or Ridgid.
All I can say is you need to temper your expectations. Remember that even $150-$200 Hoovers kind of suck (in a bad way) unless it’s easy material. I haven’t found a good corded full size vac without spending $300+ on a Shark or Dyson. So the compact 18V guys have their limits. They’re frickin great for getting sawdust around the bench and pretty good with dirt and sand in the car, but it’s not going to be like some $500 Dyson. They’re small and not super powerful and the small filters get clogged quick with stuff like pet dander and ash and other super fine stuff so you need to knock the filter clean from time to time, but they’re real convenient for small messes. With convenience in mind, I like them enough that I would try one of the little 3gal cordless wet/dry vacs for sure, expecting that it’s not going to be like the big ass 120V Ridgid shop vac on wheels that makes the lights dim a little because it pulls so much juice.
I didn't ask you, frick off tripgay
Had a customer with like a 4 ft all monster Rigid shop vac. If it wouldn't take up half of my truck bed to move I'd get one right now. It did better in room dust control than whatever stupid collectors my GCs used to carry. I had to route a bunch of cabinets and it did great.
They're all fine to good. You're going to find out as you work which is better and which you probably need another caliber or two better. Certain tools will sap the batteries like angle grinders, lamps, weedeaters, lots of heavy torque drilling, probably that zall. The other performance draw backs you'll discover with use and preference.
Not OP, but I havent tried that one. Ive got the handheld dust buster type and a toolbox shaped one at work.
They both do fine as vacuums. The toolbox one guzzles battery power, but damn if it aint handy!
> already had some batteries
You’re locked into the platform already like a cheap crack prostitute. The mark-up on batteries is insane, at least 500%.
> Homeowner
Since you’re working on your home, you can get these new tools that work directly off the AC in your house! There’s one of these “outlets” every 8 feet or so all over the entire house!
> Impact
entire house was built without impact. Just get a drill like everyone else.
> tradies b***h about ryobi
They have a lot of the same components as milwaulkee, they come out of the same factory. They under-rate their tools to keep milwaulkee prices high. Their batteries are seriously crippled now though… probably costs them more to do that.
The one+ battery system is supreme, however. I’ve been using it since it came out in NiCd…all my ryobi tools are dark blue, not green. I haven’t used any of them in 10+ years. But if I wanted to cough up $200 for some nerfed batteries, I could. I just go buy a corded device if I need one.
Impacts are good to have for changing tires. I keep mine in my car just in case. Just because people didn't use one to build the house doesn't mean they wouldn't have come in handy.
>you don't need a tractor to be a farmer, they plowed fields for thousands of years without one
MOWER BLADES
O
W
E
R
B
L
A
D
E
S
They’re a lifesaver if you have to do a water hearer anode too. At minumum, grab the $70 Porter Cable or Bauer 1/2” gun and if it saves your ass once, it will be worth the cost of admission
>entire house was built without impact.
yeah they're called nails
No impact? Have fun stripping out your screws.
I would advise not just buying a bunch of tools until you actually know what you need
>No Fun Allowed!
I dont see how thats the implication
Whats fun about wasting money on a bunch of junk that never gets used?
Posting pics and waiting for autistic screeching.
Proud of you
Those sure look like nice tools, Bepis. I'm glad you've been able to keep them in such good condition.
There it is…
Check out how clean my circuit breaker finder is!
Ryobi is better in every way
>there it is
Just because you get tired of hearing it doesn't make it any less true Rubber Duck
>doesn’t make it any less true
I never doubted that it was true autism around here.
Of course
True autists with funko pop collections can easily sense one of their own kin.
normally I'd agree but all of the tools in the OP are very basic and shit that any normal home owner would use. none of it is obscure one time use kind of stuff
OP here. That’s what I was thinking when I bought everything. If I was getting a table saw or something more advanced it would be the most premo one from Ryobi or a Dewalt
I buy Ryobi or Sunpower even though it's all chinese.
Get whatever is the equivalent of this tool in picrel that is compatible with your battery set. This is a combination cutoff saw/angle grinder and also has an adjustable guard/fence with an outlet for a vacuum cleaner attachment.
YOU WILL WANT THIS TOOL
Why?
PLASTER DUST
It will cleanly and carefully take cuts out of things that are absolute ass to work on, like expanded-metal-reinforced plaster. If you ever have to work on an old house, you will hate yourself if you have to do any kind of meaningful work and you don't have this tool. If you are especially good and careful, you will be able to just cut out nice panels of plaster and not have to cut up the lath wall behind it, saving you time and money, and especially, YOUR LUNGS. Silicosis is near uncurable unless you have a doctor that can wash out your lungs.
I personally have an old datavac that I modified into a jetpack thingy I wear and my hose plugs into this saw's hose attachment. It will cut and also clean up the dust for you. The worst part of working on your house is cleaning up the mess afterwards; the less you have to clean, the more you can make your work fun.
>Lath and Plaster
Most houses have drywall bud.
There's buildings generations old and are still standing that have plaster walls.
MY house still has plaster walls and they are superior for mechanical durability , insulation and soundproofing, at least an inch thick. They are just a pain to work on. This cutoff saw fixes that.
The point still stands for sheetrock, wallboard or any kind of small concrete or stone work, especially to keep your work area clean.
Notoolsgay like OP, what are the concerns when using an impact when I should use a drill? Stripping the screw? My understanding is that the driver does a hammering action so it can produce more torque, should I just approach most jobs with a drill and switch if I'm encountering too much resistance? Are there certain materials where I should just default to the impact?
Impacts use very cheap and low power motors (used because cordless tools are underpowered) they use little pot-metal anvils to increase the apparent power at the expense of:
• Wear. Both the bits, screwheads and the impact head damage quickly and wear out/get destroyed.
• your hearing.
• it’s slow… the impact drives things very slowly, sometimes less than 25% the speed of a drill.
• the special impact bits that you’re supposed to buy have a torsion section that actually twists which negates the very principle of it’s operation!
In sum, they’re the NFTs of the power tool world. A complete scam.
What if I already own a Dewalt Ugly Ape?
It will kill itself eventually, the design life for home use is around 2 years.
If you had a drill, you can always buy a real, high quality impact attachment to get the desired effect for a lot less money. It works better, lasts longer, and you’re not lugging it around for every task unless you need it.
Doesn’t even compare
Keep telling yourself that as you wreck your wrist whenever you don’t drill a pilot hole or bust knuckles on rusty bolts.
Lean into the impact driver with some pressure and it will do all the work driving big screws. If you hesitate, you will strip out a few until you get used to it.
>It will kill itself eventually, the design life for home use is around 2 years.
I'm going on 4 years of pretty much consistent weekly use with my Craftsman garbage tools. The key is in looking at what the motor is rated for and doing PM on your tools when needed. At work we use milwaukee and some of the tools we use such as the electric grease guns barely make it 8 months at about an hour of day of use.
craftsman is made by dewalt now, so they do have that going for them. I typically buy crafstman for my corded tools, and random hand tools, mostly for the easy as frick warranty they have
You sound like a gay
And clueless to think the $20 handheld impact driver is anything like the power tools. I don’t think he has ever used a real impact driver or wrench because anybody who buys one, their first thought is “why did I wait so long?”
There’s a reason every contractor uses impact drivers to drive screws instead of drills
> every contractor
No legitimate contractor uses them to any great extent. You’re thinking of home reno shows and homeowner stuff because that’s all you’ve ever seen from your couch. You obviously don’t even know any to ask.
Even home-owner level stuff like building a deck, we use non-impact drivers/guns, they drive 6” screws without a problem. Impacts are just too slow when you want to get something done on time.
> wreck your wrist
A lot of drills have these things called a “clutch” if you’re not capable of handing a drill without hurting yourself. Check out the manual.
picrel is random example of what actual contractors use day-to-day. It’s probably older than most people on this board, twice as smart, and has bored more holes than you all will in your lifetimes.
>contractors don’t use impact drivers
Even with your very narrow definition of contractor that doesn’t include any contractors who do anything besides new assembly of frames or contractors who do frame houses and use impact drivers whem they’re not hanging druwall on said framing, it’s wild how impact drivers the #2 cordless power tool after a drill. Must be all them ghosts.
You do know there are Contractors that have been building homes for 20+ years with youtube channels too right? All of them using Impacts and all of them were using impacts long before any sponsorships.
I don’t know anyone that has enough time for a youtube channel, nor has the “attention prostitute” personality trait to enough of a degree to have a youtube channel.
Why don’t you name one and I’ll see if it looks legit.
I know there’s a bunch of small-time operations out there, but they’re like a couple of guys or whatever that are basically glorified “handy men” and they’re idea of a “job” involves driving a couple of screws, not ten thousand.
You don’t have to be a paid shill to be a clueless zealot. Everything is relative. Let’s say you’ve got a bunch of Rigid power tools, and you see your neighbor struggling with his ikea picture frame drill set trying to take off his wheel in his driveway… you shed a tear and come over to help him. I feel the same way, when I see people trying to push home depot toys. It’s called “home” depot for a reason. It’s where you’re wife shops to get you a father’s day gift for new homeowners. Ever gone there during the day? It’s full of 30 something chicks everywhere, except for the odd pro arguing with the staffer about why they don’t stock shit and now I have to drive all the way back to the shop to get it, and I’m all the way in the north east.
Mattbangswood and Perkins Builder Brothers.
The only thing Perkins hires out is drywall and electrical.
You're boring big holes for electrical or plumbing. There's a lot more tool there but spade bits and impacts will go through plates just the same. If you're doing several of these you obviously set up in tool size. I've done several decks using one green impact wrench and the only time it slows the process down is sending dozens of lags where a design calls for. They're great for driving in the temporary bracing and scaffolding for framing which speeds up tear down and saves ammo.
The clutch on most hand drills is nearly worthless and something like you've got there will spin a person off a ladder if they're limp about using it.
I agree with all this though
A lot of the yt channels find more success making videos than selling a product or service.
yep 100% true, when I got my bosch freak it was a legit game changer
>bosch freak
Just wait til you get a real impact wrench and use it on stuff that takes some muscle to remove with hand tools.
>buys ridgid
the frick would you know about real tools lmfao
I mean my 1/2” orange guy has more balls than Milwaukee’s.
You are proving his point
just buy a chink makita for the same shit as the freak for 30 bucks.
Rigid is a dead brand walking warranty is gone now service plan, no real updates, might as well stick to known brands from tti like ryobi/hart for the poor to contractor milky latest niche tool. w4jma
What does rigid have? vacuum?
>what does Ridgid have? Vacuum?
They have two types of vacuum, a handheld and a smaller 18V wet/dry vac. When I shill tools, I normally don’t shill Ridgid if you want access to the newest and best like Milwaukee the day it drops or want the glue guns and shit like Ryobi homeowner tools, but Ridgid covers any regular contractor tool or heavy DIYer tool you would expect in a cordless lineup. Milwaukee releases a new tool that gets popular, Ridgid drops it 3 years later with a couple kinks worked out, and then Ryobi gets a budget version with less buttons like 2-4 years after Ridgid.
What do you want? 3” multi-material saw? 18V miter saw? Grease gun? Caulk gun? Band saw? Extended ratchet? Backpack chemical sprayer? Ridgid has it. And if you want to say it’s a dying brand, remember that Ridgid is on like Gen 7 of cordless tools and they’re still compatible with the early NiCd tools and batteries because they didn’t switch battery pack design and have had slide packs befor lithium cells became the new standard
not worth owning rigid there are two options gay homeowner/diy or contractor milkshake.
rigid is dead in the water, there is no point to the middle line when the other two have better sales, and lineups.
rigid is just a meme brand at this point, home depot and walmart have secured the middle low markets for life, and milkshakes the middle to high market or it's competitors.
rigid has no reason to exist but to scam morons.
>anon’s infallible opinion
Whatever you say, but enough people are using Ridgid to put out 7 generations of 18V tools. Plus at the time I bought into it, it was by far the best sale on a brushless hammer drill, impact driver, and sawzall with 2 larger batteries. Milwaukee would’ve been almost twice as much for the same thing with real similar performance, and I didn’t want a brushed Ryobi sawzall. They have a lot more to offer than you’re willing to admit and Ridgid and Kobalt are always up there in the middle of the pack of the contractor tools in testing and reviews despite being like 30% cheaper. It’s not a bad choice for somebody who wants good tools and doesn’t care if the brand doesn’t offer an 18v PEX crimper and only has 2 or 3 types or bluetooth speakers.
stay moronic son, the amount of cash going into ryobi/hart systems and Milwaukee will make rigid cordless tools die. Milwaukee is fast aggressive and serving trade niches. there is no reason to wait for rigid, when ryobi will probably just cover you. TTI isn't gonna pay forever to sell middle tier tools with lifetime service contracts. eventually they will drop that shit too.
Except Ridgid releases a lot of the tools before Ryobi has them. Like when the brushless impacts came along, Milwaukee had em first, then Ridgid got them a few years later, and Ryobi didn’t get a brushless mid torque or a high torque until 2-3 years after Ridgid. The Ridgid brushless tools are all closer to Milwaukee Fuel in specs than the Ryobi HP.
Still waiting for Ryobi’s stubby and right angle impact…
Ridgid*
190 for a nut turner? That is a complete ripoff considering you can get a no name for a quarter of the price. Milwaukee is 160 right now with two of the compact batteries at home depot.
>$160 with two batteries
Maybe it helps to know what you’re looking at. Milwaukee M12 is $230 for the 1/2”, and same price as the Ridgid for 3/8”.
Also I probably will wait for the Ridgid to come up on a free tool or free battery to buy it so I feel like I won. There’s always deals to be had if you wait a month or two. I did that with the hackzall when that dropped and got a 2.0Ah battery and a charger for $10 less than bare tool price.
Curious to see if the Ridgid will end up more powerful than the M12, it might be a little step up since it’s 18V.
I've never heard anyone say bosch is weak shit, it's not common and doesn't have the biggest lineup of tools but quality is not a problem with bosch
The Freak is an impact driver with a square adapter, not reliable for lug nuts on most cars.
Brochacho I work on homes and probably take my tires off maybe once a year. Just not in my general use case. Also, total power of a tool is only one metric to care about, while my freak may be weaker than a rigid, mines actually going to last
>actually going to last
Keep telling yourself that with your Chinese impact driver. There’s zero reason to buy Bosch 18V tools if you’re in the US, every other major brand has more upside. My last post was about Ridgid’s lack of tool selection when it comes to the crazy niche stuff since they’re a store brand lower price contractor grade tool, same with Kobalt, and they have more tools available forp purchase in the US than Bosch.
Yet they are a staple for actual professionals and have been for years now
> it’s slow… the impact drives things very slowly, sometimes less than 25% the speed of a drill
Wtf am i reading.
Feminist literature I think
> reading
watch the torque test channel and be enlightened.
they even have cut-away of the impact head and anvils that explains why impacts are necessarily slow.
Or go try and drive some lag bolts into an unpredrilled oak beam. A big impact can still make progress near it’s limit but veeeerrrrry slowly.
I drill has less problem as long as you drive it continuously all the way in. The reason for this is because the bolt gets very hot and melts the lignin in the wood and it acts as a lubricant. It also acts like a glue, so when the drill stops it will “set” in place and it’s a lot harder to drive it again a second time.
This melting of the lignin can be seen when they make those artificial fireplace logs from sawdust. They don’t need a binder, the heat and the pressure alone are enough to melt the lignin and hold it together after it cools.
And that drill will give you carpal tunnel before your dock even touches the water. That speed benefit on the drill falls off quick when you get to larger screws and bolts.
If you're throwing screws and lags without predrilling just grab the impact. If you're quickly driving nuts and bolts, grab the impact. If you need flawless work then grab the drill. It's that simple.
Ryobi brushless is fine.
As a homeowner you might want a vacuum that has a larger container and doesn't rely on batteries.
I find angle grinders are a great adition, not just for cutting metal, but also sharpening knives, and making adjustments, but it's largely optional for most people.
Other than that you probably won't need anything better. I mean Ryobi sucks ass, but only if you use it a lot. I mean their shit does work.
>I know Ryobi is the b***h brand that tradies love to shit on
Frick ehm. I bought a bunch of Ryobi 4 years ago when I gutted a house that had a fire. Completely redid the interior, replaced a lot of studs and most of the rafters in the rooms that burned. And all the additional work and maintenance and random projects since then. Total list of issues: The chuck on the driver has started to get a bit gritty. The 5-1/4" circ saw has always seemed weak, but still cuts 3/4" OSB. This year two of my1.5Ah batteries died, but I don't think that is too bad after being stored outdoors down to -25F for 4 years.
Only thing I see wrong with that list is too many batteries. Did the house with just 2x 4Ah and 2x 1.5Ah and never once stopped because of batteries. The only tool I have that eats the batteries up is the multi-head outdoor tool with the edger and string-trimmer heads. Barely does the yard (front and rear) with a 4yo 4Ah.
2x4Ah and 2x1,5 Ah and never stopped working? I guess you don't work very hard. A 6Ah battery on a reciprocal saw is used up in like 10minutes of intense use. There is a reason why 8Ah and 12Ah batteries are what the pros use when they don't have b***h wrists and complain about "weight". 6Ah is the absolute minimum you will see on any major site.
They don’t use 12.0Ah packs on drills and not everybody is doing Mexi tier demo jobs like you.
A couple small packs and a couple 10 cell packs like 4.0-6.0’s will get most DIYers through their jobs. Although I’m tempted to snag a couple Ryobi 9.0’s for the OPE stuff if I ever come across a really good deal.
Ryobi is perfectly good for domestic applications.
I'm a little more handy than the next man so I keep my one+ gear for nastier projects that would likely destroy the tool, but the enormous range and more unusual stuff makes it a rediculously useful range.
I have a friend who is happier spending three times the money on a Makita equivalent and brag about how the setting on his is at 3 when mine is likely on 10.
Use the drill to put in pilot holes and the impact to run the screw in. You save tons of time not having to switch bits. The pilot hole is to keep from splitting the wood more than anything else.
Ryobi is literally the best bang for your buck brand and probably the best for a homeowner, I have drills and batteries from Ryobi that have lasted years and years and years.
Ryobi is fine. If you're just a DIYer they'll probably last you your entire personal life on earth. Someone else might pick through your belongings after you die and take them. If they use them and use them as a DIYer, the tools last will last them a while too.
>sell batteries and chargers on internet because I already have them
>each tools costs me about 35$ now
>cheaper than second hand off ebay and I still have 5 year warranty.
What do you use to sell the batteries? What is the process like? Fees?
I’ve thought of that before but as far as selling locally, whenever I deal with people on CL or FB marketplace or OfferUp, I end up saying to myself “I would rather keep the extra battery than deal with this for $50.
FB marketplace will probably get you the best price. Ebay and Mercari and the likes have a sellers fee.
Yes until you waste an hour trying to meet somebody because you don’t want randos coming to your house and then they finally show and offer you $15 for a battery that you agreed you would sell for $50. Frick that, I’ll keep the battery.
i second what the other anon said about getting some better bits
the team green stuff just doesn't hold up compared to the other brands IMO, did a deck repair project last summer at a friend's place and his bits were getting chewed up, granted some of that could be user error but mine lasted the entire project using my dewalts
https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-MAXFIT-Screwdriving-Set-with-Sleeve-30-Piece-DWAMF30/309474860
https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-Black-and-Gold-Drill-Bit-Set-21-Piece-DWA1181/205952648
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-IMPACT-XPS-Impact-Bit-Set-60-Piece-E-01644/311427312
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-SHOCKWAVE-Impact-Duty-Alloy-Steel-Screw-Driver-Bit-Set-40-Piece-48-32-4022/301024174
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-SHOCKWAVE-IMPACT-DUTY-Titanium-Drill-Bit-Set-23-Piece-48-89-4631/205879024
i've used all these kits over the past two years and love the dewalt and makita stuff
milwaukee driver bits are nice but when it comes to drill bits i like the dewalts way more than the shockwave stuff
also milwaukee cases SUCK in the sense that they tend to hold the bits in too well and don't give you enough room to sometimes grip the bit you want easily. kinda seems like a silly thing to complain about but the dewalt maxfit cases and makita xps stuff holds really well while still giving you the ability to easily remove the bit when you need it
always nice to start off with these packs as they cove most of the basic shit you'll use and then you can always replace or fill out extra bits as time goes on and you encounter stuff out of the orginary
thanks anon, I'm shopping for bits rn, finally buying a "nice" set instead of $10 kits, are the black and gold dewalts gtg?
>Phillips drill bits
I live in a place where philips still ain't king, but they're still everywhere. good to have, even if I'd rather use torx or robertson.
yes philips screws exist
Phillips *drive bits
Drill bits make holes.
Hart tools on sale rn. Good bang for buck.
Ryobi Days is habbenin right now too, far better selection and really good prices on kits.
Aside from Ryobi being a better choice in every way, it’s annoying enough when a company changes to a new battery design, but do you really want to bet on a brand that has only existed a couple of years? You might be buying NOS or knockoff batteries and chargers from ebay in 5 years because Walmart found a cheaper supplier for DIY power tools.
All of my Ryobi stuff still holds up after 4 years and I put it through some pretty good hell intermittently. Sawzall cutting through pokeweed roots in the garden to dig them out piece-by-piece as it was the only way. Cutting thick acrylic sheeting, sheet metal, all kinds of weird stuff I've built. Gone through a few blades on the circular and many many on the sawzall.
Drills are right worn but still extremely good even after being used repeatedly to make 8" and 12" bore holes lol. It all looks like hell but even the original batteries are still packin
>need another Milwaukee Jobsite Organizer
>used to be easy to find <$20 at home Depot
>Milwaukee Discontinued them in 2022
>replaced everything with gimmicky packout bins for 3x the price
They have completely dried up online now, ive gotten to the point of looking through garage and estate sales just to find one a Boomer had some screws in when they died.
https://www.harborfreight.com/20-bin-medium-portable-parts-storage-case-93928.html
?
I already have several Milwaukee cases with custom fit Kaizen foam inserts, id prefer to get one more to match up and lock together with the others rather than replace everything or just a different case system.
Even just switching over to Milwaukee Packout would be $200+ in cases and foam vs. Just one more Jobsite organizer.
I use ryobi, and I honestly don't know why people shit on it. They are legitimately good tools, and they have never failed on me. I got my brother some of those big 4ah batteries, and they work amazingly. We put up an entire ceiling with one charge, and they still had 2/4 bars left of charge. The only thing I can say is that the impact driver is a little bit wimpier than other brands, but other than the impact, every other tool is just as good.
>The only thing I can say is that the impact driver is a little bit wimpier than other brands
Think of all the people whose first impression of the entire line is the impact driver.
ryobi isn't the worst tool brand out there and they've been pushing the bar with different products like their bug zapper light
anyone who complains about the price of ryobi batteries doesn't shop at direct tools
and maybe don't ever use a battery powered sander unless absolutely necessary, they are designed to kill batteries
That’s half of why I went all in
I had an old drill and battery my dad got me as a graduation present years ago so it would have been easy to switch to a different platform but all the random lifestyle shot Ryobi makes that uses the batteries convinced me to stay in their camp
I’m legit shocked at how not shit the vacuum is
Perfectly fine for a homeowner.
Tradies use their tools multiple times a day and beat the shite out of it way more than you ever will.
I love my Ryobi starter kit. I still use it all the time. Homeowner since 2018.
get makita bits, and diablo sawsall and sanding paper and blades.
drills are dewalt or milky
shut the frick up bepis
what tools are actually good, even for a professional? not interested in buying anything anytime soon, just curious what PrepHole considers "good".
Depends what type of tool you’re looking at.
And then you will get a bunch of morons arguing about it.
If you were to walk down to Home Depot right now and get cordless power tools that will last a few years on a jobsite, Milwaukee for mechanics, HVAC-plumbing-sparky guys, and then DeWalt for all around handyman or contractor work with a good selection and good sales in the US, and Makita if you’re a boomer cabinet installer or JDM fanboi who likes tools made in China.
There’s other shit at Lowe’s, Flex seems good but it’s a new brand in the US so support may not be great, and Bosch is straight but they have a dogshit selection of tools in the US and they’re a little slow to upgrade stuff.
Milwaukee, Makita, Dewalt. Dont think any harder than that. More money wont get you more.Less money isnt a hidden treasure where you are outsmarting the megacorps who produce said tools.
Metabo is affordable and of outstanding quality for the price.
IDK if they are big in the US though.
Limited.
Metabo grinders are like Bosch SDS drills, they have a long history of being reliable from the corded versions but not worth buying into their cordless stuff because availibility in the US isn’t great and pretty much every other major cordless brand makes a good grinder and SDS.
You would be surprised what a fresh coat of paint and new awnings can do for a doublewide!
What kind of trailer did you buy mr poorhomosexual?
Is it as least a doublewide?
Is there any real difference between 20V, 1/2” chuck drill/drivers that I should look for? I don’t know much about this stuff, just need a decent drill for assembling furniture and tightening screws around the house, but I do want to buy a good one that will last.
Other than what batteries it takes, of course. I’m looking at a Milwaukee or a Dewalt but I’m almost tempted to get a Ryobi since those batteries also work with blowers and weed eaters, even though I don’t even need that stuff at my current place
Milwaukee and DeWalt sell blowers and shit too, but they cost more than Ryobi.
You can look at the torque, but most modern 18V/20V drills, especially full size brushless models, have so much torque that they will frick your wrist before you want more power.
Think about the hammer drill function too if you will be drilling into any brick/concrete. If you have any concrete or masonry walls in your home, definitely go with the hammer drill for tapcons and shit.
If you find a good deal on a brushed model, it’s probably an older gen. They’re fine for DIYer use, run a little warmer and go thru batteries a little faster, but that 10% better efficiency isn’t a deal breaker most of the time. Modern brushless drills and drivers are normally like an inch or two shorter than the brushed models which is nice in tight spots.
Is there any reason to NOT get a hammer drill over a standard drill/driver, even though I don’t expect to mess with any concrete or brick any time soon?
IMO, as your only drill, it’s worth it. I also live in South Florida where the houses are all concrete so it would be nearly impossible. You could make a hole in concrete without the hammer function, but it takes forever, and you can rent an SDS for projects but how many times do you want to drive to the rental place instead of spending $50 more on a hammer drill?
The problem is when you’re trying to go cheap like a $99 drill + battery and charger or $149 drill + impact driver kit, it can be hard to find a hammer drill in a kit like that unless you step up to some $350+ M18 Fuel kit of Flexvolt XR. It sucks too because the hammer drill version of the drill that comes in the $99 sale kit is only <$50 more than the bare tool, but you often can’t get them in a kit.
Also besides price, there’s no real compromise or drawback. The hammer drill version will be like 1/2” longer and weigh a couple ounces more, but that’s the biggest thing. When loaded with a 4.0Ah battery, the extra weight won’t be noticed.
Also since we’re selling you on a hammer drill, have you considered a kit with an impact driver? It’s a gamechanger when you finally get both tools and realize you don’t have to constantly change bits.
These are pretty questionable when you come up against masonry and concrete. Get an SDS to send anchors into those fast.
The hammer drill is just the better ryobi tool. The chuck is better and it has more speed control and clutch options than their basic drill.
I have no issues drilling 1/4” holes and smaller in cinderblock exterior walls with my hammer drill. I’ve been thinking about an SDS if I can catch a good deal on a Ridgid or maybe even the Ryobi HP, but I haven’t had to do any >1/2” holes in concrete since I got this house. Or maybe I get down on one of the high torque drills. Pic related rapes stuff with those Milwaukee multi-material bits.
20v identical to 18v, just measured in a deceptive way to look stronger
Just make sure you get one with a hammering function, they're not terribly more expensive and you won't suffer the annoyance of needing to buy a second fricking drill the first time you need to drill into brick or concrete
I’m . I ended up buying the top-tier Milwaukee hammer drill. I feel slightly moronic because the drill itself costed more than half the shit I’ll be working on, but I’m happy with it.
Can you turn the hammering off?
Panasonic even made an SDS to regular chuck so you could use it as a regular drill if you wanted to.
Yeah it’s just a regular drill that also has a hammer setting
Most SDS drills and every hammer drill I have ever seen can go from drill to drill + hammer. And then most SDS models aside from some compact like 5/8” max models have 3 settings like pic related, drill, hammer drill, and hammer.
A word to the bargain seekers here on PrepHole, Amazon has a big discount on knipex cobras at the moment. The 10", 7.25", and 6" are all around $28-29 which is a nice price for top tier pliers
why can't you attach the screwdriver bit directly to the chuck
>not pictured: me around back smoking cigs with a Ridgid box
>Tool "organizer"
Not for jigsaw uses, but for jigsaw puzzle users
>check beginner saw reviews
>we are testing Ryobi for the first time!
>it's trash
Yelp. I do like the colour, but this just looks cheap.
?t=1162
Dang, and its a corded tool, too
Of course they’re corded. In the EU you need a special licence to use cordless tools after you register them with the government and install the remote-ID tracker unit.
You might take a cordless saw up into the attic and cut rafters with it and that would be dangerous.
Or steal a catalytic converter with one.
I think anyone would understand the reticence behind heavily regulating them.
Britain is no longer part of the EU.
Sorry, burger here, i dont study world history
england == britain == uk == eu
>sidewinders
dropped
Go worm drive or go home.
Ryobi is the perfect brand for a homeowner. They make great tools that lasted my whole apprenticeship and still work flawlessly and I'm tired of pretending they don't.
literally older gen milwaukee tools with what a cheaper chinkier bearing,switch, and some more loose quality inspections?
No one tell these trips that they're the same person.
>the trips are the sane persons in this thread
I feel ya
Try HART from Walmart. Often run exceptional deals. Ebay and Facebook market place too.