Can it be soldered back togheter with a solder gun or do I look for a machinist that can create a new one? I need it hold my walkman door closed.
Need tips on fixing/replacing small moving part
Can it be soldered back togheter with a solder gun or do I look for a machinist that can create a new one? I need it hold my walkman door closed.
*together
Yer fricked
I guess I'll order one of the many junks that are up for sale.
That's the smart play. The area that failed would not last if printed etc from plastic and there isn't enough area for a reasonable solder or weld joint.
BTW thanks for posting a GOOD photo. You are worthy to birth my manbabbies. The part isn't as simple as it would look at low res as isn't flat and also has two milling machine cuts making steps so it's not a good candidate for hand filing.
It's wise to collect spares for any vintage gear you own. Kudos for a well executed OP tho.
Can you find a dude with a 3d printer? That'd be cheaper than a real deal machinist
Gonna break after a handful of uses.
A flexible PCB can be made to order by many overnight PCB fabs. Of course a donor will be less work, but it might also snap when trying to salvage it, and it might be a lot of work to find a compatible donor. You can also just jump the wires - flexible PCBs exist for two reasons mainly, 1: ease of assembly, 2: extreme flexibility requirements. Is this flexible PCB part of a moving part? Usually except for the tape mech, the only real moving part in a Walkman is the door and most don't have buttons.
You just have to figure out the CAD software on how to make flexible PCBs.
So basically now I need a flex cable and a locking lever. The locking lever is the less critical element like people said a rubber band would do the job. The motors works but another one in a good shape could reduce flutter to a normal level.
Interesting post. Yeah I guess I could solder a bunch of wires but the thing is really small. It links the to pickup and the radio on the door. I only have like a cheap solder gun from amazon.
Time to invest in something better. Hakko solder station clones are much better than they used to be, and they are now a fraction of the cost. If you end up getting something like this, make sure to get one that's compatible with the tips.
How can I protect myself from lead fumes? Doesn't it permanently lower you IQ?
Solder does not evaporate, you dummy. Vapor point of lead is almost 2000 °C. Also most solder you find today is lead-free. The flues you see are the flux embedded in the solder (called rosin-core solder). It's a mild irritant, so don't breathe it in on purpose, but it's not supposed to harm you. It has a reputation for always going into your face, so just put a small fan on your desk and you're green.
Rosin in solder is made from pine sap, so relatively harmless. No-lead solder comes from the Devil's butthole and is notably more difficult to work with than 60/40 tin/lead compound. I've been doing this for decades and I repair everything with the leaded stuff. Leadless solder requires more heat to apply, therefore you are more likely to damage small projects. Don't worry, the Solder Cops are not going to hunt you down, and as long as you don't consume the stuff, it's pretty safe.
>lead fumes
Turn down the temperature bro.
Put pieces together lay on piece of sheet metal
Spray paint over it
Now you have the pattern. Carefully cut, grind new part. Thank me later
The stub shown at the ~7 o'clock position and other features make that a b***h to file and grind even if OP has a Dremel and israeliteeler's files and a small fast drill press. It could be done over many hours of work but it's a very easy piece to frick up.
Speak for yourself loser
If it were me id just use velcro
I think I'm frick I broke two electronic wires whatever you call it.
That's a flex cable best replaced from a donor but at this point you're better off replacing the device or just using a phone for a far better experience sans the mechanical tape swapping ritual.
Retro cassette players of similar size are like 25 bucks and some offer USB to record from cassettes before they wear out (which doesn't take long).
Those brand new players are sweaty dogshit ass and don't even have stereophonic output. They also tend to use plastic flywheels so there's too much wow and flutter for even a portable unit. OP your best option is to troll through secondhand shops or pay an arm and a leg for donor units from eBay/elsewhere. That hinge clip isn't something that you'd be able to pass off to a machinist without paying a lot of money, and ribbon cables are whole other level of tedium to repair.
I am curious how you managed to rip the ribbon cable after
this picture. Do you not have a set of instructions in front of you? I would advise in the future that you seek out an OEM repair guide or enthusiast written guide before attempting DIY repair on something, let alone a device that hasn't been made for years.
I think I pull too much on it by accident while focusing on something else. Maybe the plastic was weak because of age.
The unit was properly serviced but the motor is just old and has a flutfer issue. So it needs a new motor. Can confirm the preamp sounds amazing though.
t. watched moanhomosexual and now im an expert
I didn't need Youtube to teach me something that was common knowledge among audio enthusiasts, sounds like you're the one who needs a spoonfeeding.
>just using a phone
If OP is using a walkman in 2024 it's certainly not because he's looking for a "Better experience" Tape is back, baby.
Damn I wish I had every skill, every tool and no full time job
>flex cable
Yeah thanks that was the word I was looking for. Newly made cassette player can't process any tapes properly because dolby B licenses have expired a few years ago and were not renewed. Since almost any cassette you buy is in Dolby B, there is no legal way of producing a cassette player that can read most tapes.
I've restored a lot of cassettes using a simple food dehydrator. You just take the reel out and dry it for a day. Most cassettes pick up humidity over time and get sticky.
>flex cable
All cables are flexible. This is a flexible PCB, or a modern, (polyamide) (flat) ribbon cable.
They've been used since the early 1980s when I was a comm/nav troop so not really "modern". The military radio term for them was "flex cable".
Yeah they have have cheap ones on amazon but they are pretty bad. They basically forgot how to make good mechanisms or the parts aren't being produced anymore
?
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A higher end walkman from 1989 is the best thing you can get but they are 35 years old+ so most of them don't work properly anymore.
About this unit
>The design of this unit was a huge step forward where Sony utilised a new tape transport mechanism MT-WM701C-17, which had advanced features such as a better motor, better solenoid, and better chipset. The electronic design was also drastically different, where the signals from the heads went directly into IC301 (MHC8570EQ01L), which was the playback equalising amplifier. It was specifically for magnetic recordings, and is still one of the best preamplifier ICs around.
I don't expect them to be good of course but the only reason to have one is as an oddity. Best to buy a used cassette deck and rescue anything on cassette worth saving like concert tapes (many Dead heads have hundreds). Those do not improve with age so transcribing them to lossless audio files is wise. Cassettes only don't suck compare to eight tracks.
I grew up with them which gave me and everyone else at the time a deep appreciation of how much tape sucks. Ripping vinyl or CD to cassette for portability was tedious even if your record collection was already transferred to reel-to-reel (the media servers of the 1980s).
Every play of a vinyl record degrades sound quality so ripping was mandatory. That also made Dolby or dbx (which few people had so less ability to play on a variety of systems) noise reduction. All of that was a giant asspain only hipsters desperate for rituals crave today.
> I need it hold my walkman door closed.
Tape or some rubber bands on the outside can hold it closed
As for repairing the part Id try putting the pieces together and glue
They even come in colors if beige doesn't fit your aesthetic
OP could even get pink and blue if it suits his or her fancy
RIP
>Leaving both battery and mains supply plugged in.
Y'know what OP, keep going. Prod around an uninsulated screwdriver too.
I just wanted to ajust the speed. And yeah you need to run a test tape with the thing stripped out because the screw for ajusting the speed is inside the thing. I broke the flex cable anyways so I give up.
This can be remade but you’ll have to learn to draw in some kind of pcb software like kicad, not terribly difficult. You could do a hack job repair but I wouldn’t because you tore it all the way across at a bend point so a hack job repair will inevitably break. You could also just remove the ribbon cable altogether and replace it with well routed magnet wire that’s tacked down along the way. Won’t look as clean but it’ll get the job down
i wouldn't solder it, id tack it with a TIG welder, just a few tacks maybe a bit of fill wire, and a bit of elbow grease and a file to re-shape it to fit. or make a new piece out of aluminum using a few files and a drill the correct size for the hole
I'd braze it. Check if the two pieces still fit nicely -- some tear out might not make them line up just fine. If needed, dremel the pieces so they fit. Hold them together with fine metal wire and cook them under a flame, then apply brazing. Typically the brazing will be stronger than the base material.
You need to find a machinist that deals with Swiss machines . That’s too small for us basic b***h ones with a VMC 3 axis and big ass Kurt vises
However that piece of metal is stamped and folded
Perhaps making a mold and pouring a melted stainless steel screw in it. I have no experience with that stuff I wish I did.
420 braze it fgt
Nah you don’t want to do that
Pound it flat, take a picture of it , make a stamp of it
>I wish I had more experience
Nah, production isn’t fun and despite working over 15 years and having a degree I’m making damn near minimum wage
Why don't you start your own business? You could take a BA certifcate at evening school and with your experience a bank will give you a loan.
I'm pretty sure it's cast. If you zoom in you can see circles from the ejector pins.
>I'm pretty sure it's cast.
Yeah. And if it is, what's it made out of?
I've tried soldering little metal bits that turned out to be some sort of Chineseum pot metal. Soldering gun turns them into a little puddle of melted metal in a few seconds.
If you have the patience and moderate skills, The filing of a new part would work well. Aluminum or brass are easy to work with and a good stand-in for a soft metal part. If the original is steel, then brazing or silver soldering is the way to go.
>The filing of a new part would work well.
Got a plan to match the milling machine cut recesses? That part is more complex than it appears unless zoomed on a decent display and requires some difficult to file cuts. The notch-shaped hole for example.
Most donor Walkmans are as cheap as a set of israeliteelers files or less.
r/walkman is worth a look as someone may have the parts for sale.
Only real complexity I see is how it's thinner around that large pivot hole and on the edge near the spring hole. OP could probably just make it out of sheet metal at that thickness and it would still be strong enough to work.
Since it's for both the tuner and tape head, OP could get away with leaving the tuner disconnected for a simpler fix
Let it go OP the ole girl is tired
A proper burial at sea is in order
…………guhbloosh………
Make it out of a piece of plastic wgaf