Bought this a year ago, went to charge a battery. Nothing. Won't turn on anymore. Cursory research points to diodes going out quick on these things. Can anyone provide some info to help identify and fix this issue?
need help
Bought this a year ago, went to charge a battery. Nothing. Won't turn on anymore. Cursory research points to diodes going out quick on these things. Can anyone provide some info to help identify and fix this issue?
always check the fuses
Thanks, I don't believe there are any external fuses. I imagine I'll have to take the shell apart, and I'll see a row of fuses in there somewhere?
why imagine when you can do?
get to work you lazy slob.
Yeah 100% dead maybe there’s a fuse that got rekt in there
Also don’t be moronic, make sure your outlet works, test the charger on a different outlet,
Bust out your trusty multimeter and start poking around.
Thanks I'll get crackin
Patrician choice in stick/lift arc TIG machine noted.
are you sure it isn't working just fine, and it is just a smart charger on a totally dead battery, so it does nothing?
I’d imagine you would get something on there. Smart chargers normally have some sort of display or at least lights because different voltages and AGM and such, and mine has a little wrench that flashes when it doesn’t feel like charging anything under 11V. It’s sort of annoying, but dumb people are too dumb to know you have a fried cell.
> diodes
You can just order the part. E.g. from Mouser. Can't remember the other; someone will chime in. Two reliable online sources for original components.
Your mm will be able to test. May have to take it out of circuit to get a reliable reading.
Digikey is the other big name.
From the size, I assume it's built like an old-school linear supply. Meaning it'll have a big-ass iron transformer in there. So, Power cord > fuse (maybe) > transformer > diode rectifiers > DC output. So you should have AC coming out of the transformer, before it hits the diodes.
definitely a dumb power supply and not a smart charger looking at the size and the analog meter and rotatory switches.
Check the output at the alligator clips with your DMM. Should be at least 13.5 volts when on. Probably hums at 120 Hz when it is working, so no hum means no power to the transformer, which is before the diodes.