Do not get into reloading by reloading .44 mag. I would start with bottle-necked rifle cartridges, like .223 or .308. Reloading handgun is more complicated and is more dangerous if you frick up. And magnums are even more dangerous and take more skill.
And smoking, I like a pipe full of Lane's Q1 or any English tobacco, as Im charging a tray of ammo and drinking coffee with VSOP in it. 24 grain..or was it 28? Whutevz. I throw a couple of handfuls of VV135 that my .357 likes in the powder dispenser and shake that b***h. Makes the rifle rounds extra spicy. Lyman 49 ? No baby, that shiz fo squares.
No room for error when it comes to .44 Mag, I understand now the correct measurements are paramount to safety. I have been scavenging for .44, sometimes I wish to reload my own. I do want to be more independent when it comes to ammo
Don't listen to
Handload while drinking and watching Nascar
Optics with her is mad fun
hotrounds might not be so bad for the DE since its gas operated with an AR-style bolt
>no room for error
Depends on the strength of the gun. A Super Blackhawk in 44 Mag is proofed to 80,000psi. So you have a large margin of ERROR over the 40,000psi SAAMI spec for at least one shot so you can realize something is wrong.
If you make an error and you're a little bit above SAAMI on max loads with a strong gun, you're probably okay as long as you don't make a habit of fricking up intentionally.
You can accidently go over SAAMI pressures by simply having a different powder allotment that's hotter/faster compared to the one your manual had used in testing.
I'm not advocating running anything above listed pressures, just that reality will probably mean you're going to shoot a load that was hotter than normal in your lifetime even when doing your due diligence in yoir loading process.
That was exactly why I got a super blackhawk when I decided to get a .44 mag. Lots of margin.
And then the only problem I actually have is a squib in the first few hundred.
Sadly echoing this as well. If you're insisting on reloading for a Desert Eagle, get and reload for the .50 AE cartridge.
The problem with the .44 and .357 magnum rounds is that they're primarily revolver/lever action cartridges with their rimmed cases, and a large chunk of the load data out there assumes you will be using those rounds in those guns and not the Desert Eagle. There's recipes online sure from other shooters, but again, you're gambling on other folks' testing data.
Due to the gas system the DE uses, you need to make the rounds really damn hot in order to generate enough gas to reliably cycle the action. In addition you're going to be seating the bullets slightly lower than the recommended OAL (Overall Length) in order for them to fit in the magazine and cycle properly at least that's what I had to do with my magazines in my .44 mag model.
Crimping magnum cartridges is also very tricky as you can cause pressure buildups if you overcrimp so there's that too.
With .50 AE, that round was designed from the get-go for the desert eagle so there is reliable load data for it out there.
That said, if you want some recipes, here's what I use:
Wincherster W296 or Hodgedon H-110: 23-23.5 grains depending on your bullet, but at a 240gr weight with Winchester Large Pistol Primers.
Use fully plated bullets ONLY otherwise you'll clog the gas port. Do not use FTX/Tipped bullets as they won't feed reliably unless you seat them super low in the shell to fit in the magazine.
My OAL is about 1.585 inches, which is lower than the recommended 1.600 for a .44 magnum, but it's the only way I can reliably get them to feed in the magazine with the bullets I have. I'd start at 23 grains of powder and go from there.
there's also these threads from calguns with several folks offering their recipes:
even with mild loads 15.5 under a 158gr jhp produce an impressive fireball from my 6 inch revolver, the same loads from my 3 inch .357 are Hollywood tier. that being said, I love the smell of H110, burnt or otherwise, It's kind like taking a good whiff of hoppes #9
I’ve never had problems with any of the 3 .357 magnum barrels I own but the .44 mag is temperamental and the .50AEs work regardless of how dirty the gun is due to how violently it cycles with most .50AE.
Very nicely, it’s hilarious to make the same plates that are swinging with 5.56 at 100yds, wrap themselves around the target stand several times with .50AE 325gr.
The .357 mag one on the gun is noticeably more heavy than the .50AE 10in, same barrel profile, much smaller caliber.
>The problem with the .44 and .357 magnum rounds is that they're primarily revolver/lever action cartridges with their rimmed cases, and a large chunk of the load data out there assumes you will be using those rounds in those guns and not the Desert Eagle. There's recipes online sure from other shooters, but again, you're gambling on other folks' testing data.
Be that as it may, The Mark XIX .44 Mag has improved and if I can say performs admirably just as long you lub her and hold her proper, Weaver stance
Half the battle lol, I plan on getting this one https://shopkahrfirearmsgroup.com/grips/magnum-research-de-rubber-grip-w-finger-grooves.asp to help mitigate recoil
Glad I can help out. Let me know if you run into any issues if you manage to get your stuff together before the thread archives.
If all you're loading for is a DE, then starting with a single stage press is much safer. It's a lot slower loading ammo, but you get to take the time to make sure you get your charges right.
What i'd recommend is find a box of factory ammo that feeds reliably in your desert eagle and take measurements of the rounds, particularly their OAL. The big enemies you'll be facing loading for a deagle are:
- Making sure you make the round "hot" enough to cycle the action
- Adjusting the OAL of the cartridge to fit and feed reliably in your magazine. For the type of bullets I strongly recommend plated/full jacketed round nose type bullets. I've had mixed results using the flat point target ammo with my particular model, but it might just be my model or my magazines. Either way, round nose, even hollowpoint round nose bullets that are fully plated/jacketed are the way to go.
From there, if you don't have a digital scale, get a decent one either from Franklin Armory or Lee or RCBS. If you don't want to spend the dosh for a digital powder trickler Lee makes powder cups that you can trickle powder into a pan and then into your case, but it's painfully slow.
Just take your time and work in small batches. And remember to start at the low end with H-110. It's a high power powder and pressure can spike hard. Start at 23grains for a 240gr bullet and you should be safe. If you're getting unburnt powder spitting back into your face, consider getting a hold of magnum pistol primers as well as they'll detonate more cleanly, but regular large pistol primers should still work and will probably be easier to source.
>What i'd recommend is find a box of factory ammo that feeds reliably in your desert eagle and take measurements of the rounds, particularly their OAL. The big enemies you'll be facing loading for a deagle are:
Duly noted, I have those checked off. As for supplies I still need to save up and make a list first. But in the meantime I'll do more research on my part. I really do appreciate you and everyone's input, it means a lot to help a stranger.
>The problem with the .44 and .357 magnum rounds is that they're primarily revolver/lever action cartridges with their rimmed cases, and a large chunk of the load data out there assumes you will be using those rounds in those guns and not the Desert Eagle
What did he mean by this? 357 mag revolvers take them as hot as they come.
t. Someone who reloads 357 mag
He just means you ideally want a load that burns as clean as possible in a 6in barrel, the more unburnt powder, the more gets ejected into the gun through the gas system, the rougher the gun will start to run.
Remington .44mag JSP have a huge flash and fireball because most of the powder is burning outside the barrel, not inside, as it’s meant to be shot out of a 16in lever gun barrel.
Yeah, the Deagle's gas system is such a pain to tune for as you basically have to make piss-hot loads to cycle it, but a lot of unburnt powder tends to fly out with it, at least when I'm using W296 or H-110. I think I need to upgrade to Magnum primers to get more reliable detonation imo, but finding this is a royal pain in the ass right now so I'm stuck with Large Pistol only.
W296/H110 is the archetypical magnum primer powder. You basically need magnum primers to get any sort of decent ignition, I'm surprised you haven't been told that before. HS-6 is the only medium rate powder I can think of that really needs mag primers, but almost all the really slow magnum powders (enforcer/4100, 4227, Li'l Gun, etc.) need them other than 2400.
2 years ago
Anonymous
Yeah the shop I bought my powder from basically just shrugged and said "eh should work" when I asked about using magnum or large pistol, and I trusted his word on it. They still work for sure, but yeah, my face gets bits of unburnt powder spit back at me all the time. I've just gotten used to it.
2 years ago
Anonymous
Your loads will clean up considerably and your groups will shrink in half if you switch to magnum powders. Seriously, WW296/H110 (same stuff, different label) needs them. Also, try a faster powder if you want target loads with reduced boom and fouling. The stuff I listed in
Easy fix, use top end data using a medium burn rate powder. 12 grains of CFE-P, 15 grains HS-6, or 16 grains of No. 7 would fit the bill nicely.
or anything in that range will work nicely. Maybe try IMR/H 4227 if you really want high end performance but magnum primers don't clean up the H110 enough.
2 years ago
Anonymous
I switched to 1680 from H110 for some of my larger magnum loads. I don't know if it is just me but H110 always binds up in my bloody powder hopper and I will say the 1680 is definitely...spicy.
2 years ago
Anonymous
I've never tried 1680, I'll need to check it out if I can find it. I have heard of powder measures binding up with H110, mine doesn't bind but it does stiffen up considerably. The charges still throw super accurately, though. If you want to try again, consider using a dipper and a powder trickler to weigh out individual charges, but that might be far too much work if you aren't trying for anything short of single-hole loads
2 years ago
Anonymous
I forgot to mention, you choose primers based on powder, not based on if you're using a magnum cartridge. Powders that burn easily will light up just fine with standard primers, it's mostly the slow end of powders that need the magnums. HS-6 is a weird one that really needs magnums despite being in the medium-slow zone with a lot of powders slower than it working just fine with standards. It works well though, there's no arguing that. It's the powder most often use for duplicating the FBI .38 spl +P load. 158 grain LSWCHP, 7.0 grains of HS-6, .38 spl brass, magnum primer. I do nearly same load out of a magnum case in my .357 magnum for a major power factor load, except I use half a grain more to meet PF and use a copper plated bullet. It's been hard to find recently, so I'll probably switch to CFE-P for a while, it's supposed to be similar-ish in performance but with a copper fouling reducer added.
2 years ago
Anonymous
I keep forgetting to mention this group was only at 5 yards, I'm not some kind of god-tier marksman.
2 years ago
Anonymous
>you choose primers based on powder, not based on if you're using a magnu
Is CCi large pistol primers .300 efficient for h110?
https://i.imgur.com/0E2d9Tm.jpg
Glad I can help out. Let me know if you run into any issues if you manage to get your stuff together before the thread archives.
If all you're loading for is a DE, then starting with a single stage press is much safer. It's a lot slower loading ammo, but you get to take the time to make sure you get your charges right.
What i'd recommend is find a box of factory ammo that feeds reliably in your desert eagle and take measurements of the rounds, particularly their OAL. The big enemies you'll be facing loading for a deagle are:
- Making sure you make the round "hot" enough to cycle the action
- Adjusting the OAL of the cartridge to fit and feed reliably in your magazine. For the type of bullets I strongly recommend plated/full jacketed round nose type bullets. I've had mixed results using the flat point target ammo with my particular model, but it might just be my model or my magazines. Either way, round nose, even hollowpoint round nose bullets that are fully plated/jacketed are the way to go.
From there, if you don't have a digital scale, get a decent one either from Franklin Armory or Lee or RCBS. If you don't want to spend the dosh for a digital powder trickler Lee makes powder cups that you can trickle powder into a pan and then into your case, but it's painfully slow.
Just take your time and work in small batches. And remember to start at the low end with H-110. It's a high power powder and pressure can spike hard. Start at 23grains for a 240gr bullet and you should be safe. If you're getting unburnt powder spitting back into your face, consider getting a hold of magnum pistol primers as well as they'll detonate more cleanly, but regular large pistol primers should still work and will probably be easier to source.
Good luck and good shooting!
I'll make sure you guys will be the first to know on my progress, really I'm excited about this. I'll be very diligent on this process. Don't get me wrong I understand that safety is paramount with a bullet caliber this size but the sense of danger is somewhat exciting in a way that knowing that I didn't blow my hand up is because I followed the right recipe. Sorry wish I could talk more but I'm at work.
2 years ago
Anonymous
No. H110 is the same powder as WW296, just with the Hodgdon label instead of the Winchester one. Both are packaged and distributed by Hodgdon, and are made by... Olin if I remember correctly. Most Winchester powders are like that, with a Hodgdon label twin. This powder needs magnum primers. The only slow magnum powder that lights up easily with standard primers that I know of is 2400, but that stuff is unicorn blood right now. IMR or H (same thing in this case but not always) 4227 may work with standard primers under certain conditions, but I can't remember since I haven't gotten my hands on any yet.
2 years ago
Anonymous
I only use magnum primers because 90% of the powders I use recommend them
I have some universal I stick into target / plinking rounds and I just don't give a shit enough to have two different kinds of primers just for that one powder
2 years ago
Anonymous
Cheers, I'll keep that in mind. I'll start lookin for magnum primers when they become available around here. Powder Valley used to be my go-to, but finding stuff in stock has been damn near impossible lately.
2 years ago
Anonymous
Finding any primers lately has been a once in a blue moon thing for a while, if you can find any grab a few. I've been reduced to buying them second hand driving all over the province and paying fudds half again what they'd normally be worth.
2 years ago
Anonymous
yeah that's about what it's looking like. Most of the stores around here if they even have them in stock are restricting folks to only buying 1-2 100 primer trays max per day. It's fricking insane.
I don't get it. I don't reload 44 mag but I'm looking at the load data available on hodgdon's reload data center and they're literally just the same loads that this guy is posting here. The specific load I'm looking at is a 240 gr bullet being pushed by 24 gr of h110. This is a common load for this bullet for carbines and revolvers if you are using a magnum powder. Which you should. How is this special for desert eagles?
I would think that load is safe, I load 250gr XTP's in 45 Colt over 26.5gr of H110. 1.600 COAL
2 years ago
Anonymous
I never said it wasn't safe, the opposite in fact: the load is textbook. My point was that it isnt some hidden lore for loading desert eagles. It's the same as a round you would load for any revolver, but you have to mind the cartridge length. That is not special to desert eagles, I have to mind cartridge length when I load 9mm or .40 for my autoloaders too.
I would say it's the opposite and that magnums might actually be safer since you tend to use slower powders for the best performance. On the other hand, if you compress a fast handgun powder you can easily kb a gun or even get injured. You will actually find compressed loads for .357 in reloading manuals for H110. Looking through my Lyman manual, 44 magnum with IMR 4227 might be idiot proof since it has compressed loads up to 240 gr and still gives okay performance (which is probably want you want for a desert eagle anyways).
Exactly. I cannot possibly double charge a case with h110 in 357 mag. 22 grains is almost completely full. There's barely room to seat the bullet without disturbing the powder and when the bullet is pressed into place some compression is definitely taking place. This isn't some crazy hot load, it's a recommended charge for this powder and bullet combination.
That sounds like a 135 gr XTP load. Yeah, I'm pretty sure the limiting factor there is how much powder you can cram in the case and still get it to seat. The bullet is just so light that the pressure can't build up for a magnum powder. I've started playing around with COAL to see if I can cram an extra grain or two in and break the 2350 fps advertised in the reloading manual out of a rifle.
I don't know about the DE, but I learned to reload using a .357 magnum S&W Model 19 revolver and Marlin 1894 carbine, and here's my take on it.
Rimmed, straight wall revolver rounds are the absolute easiest thing out there to reload. There's no need to worry about brass annealing or shoulder setback, bullet depth is set by a cannelure worked into the bullet itself, headspace is controlled by the rim so you can fudge about with the trimming and don't need to worry about where the case mouth or any other feature is, you don't need to worry about squibs nearly as much if you use lead bullets since often just the pressure from the primer is enough to pop them out the barrel, and you can use a huge range of powders.
HOWEVER, you do not want to start right at the high edge of pissing hot magnum level loads. That's a good way to blow yourself all to tiny bits. You want to start out with using the high end of the corresponding "special" data, but in a magnum case. Doing that you should be good to go even if you accidentally throw a double charge, and you'll get pleasant to shoot loads that ease you into learning good posture and recoil management. Once you have that down, work up a low end magnum load, then a high end magnum load if you feel you want more horsepower. My model 19 likes medium level target and low end defensive loads, my Marlin seems to thrive the harder I push it and could probably handle some massively overloaded cartridges if I made a mistake (though I never EVER go beyond book data, just in case a load intended for the carbine ends up in the revolver). I'd recommend the LEE deluxe four die carbide pistol sets for dies, since lube isn't mandatory with them and you can separate the bullet seating and crimping steps. Any decent press will work, though I wouldn't recommend a "C" press or a handheld press.
If you guys have a .357 or .44 magnum revolver available, learn to reload on it. It's the absolute best training platform there is.
if u use fast burning powder like titegroup where youre only supposed to use like 6 grains. u can double charge it. i use titegroup pretty much exclusively for pistol rounds because that shit goes a long way but i always seat the bullet right after i put the powder in the case one at a time so i know i'm not double charging any
nice try kid.
a primer does not have the gas pressure to force a bullet through a barrel of a revolver lmao.
the cylinder gap alone will vent enough gas from the tiny primer out so that the bullet just barely will stick in the barrel, max 2 lengths of bullet stuck inside is all i have seen with cartridges that didnt have powder inside. doesnt matter if its small pistol or small pistol magnum either.
I might try it, just to intentionally squib so I can feel it happen. But I don't know how much of a pita it is to extract a bullet that is stuck in the barrel. I know plugging a barrel is something that is done with lead to make cast ammo, but I don't shoot lead so I don't know if it's wise to do with a jacketed projectile.
you only need a rod of aluminium or brass and a few taps with a light hammer to drive the bullet out, like i said the primer alone will not drive the bullet very far into the barrel. very simple process, no damage potential to your gun.
Also OP I might as well cobble together a list of stuff you'll need assuming you're starting from scratch. This will probably be addressed in the reloading book there so you should be good on that front. I also see you mentioned having H-110 powder and the dies
https://i.imgur.com/Jxlhpql.png
>case tumbler?
I add it to the list, again thank you so much
here so you're covered there.
Here's roughly what you'll want to have handy in no particular order:
- Solid table to work on, if possible one you can mount your press to.
- if your table doesn't support a press, you may need to get a freestanding mount like this one to mount your press securely to it. https://www.amazon.com/LEE-PRECISION-90688-Reloading-Stand/dp/B00162RW66
- Reloading Press. As I mentioned earlier, single stage is simpler and cheaper to start out, but significantly slower. Turrets are the next step up, but a bit more complicated to setup . RCBS makes some solid ones and even has a starter kit with nearly everything you need to get started https://www.amazon.com/RCBS-Rebel-Master-Reloading-Kit_9251/dp/B0873VP33B/ref=sr_1_6?tag=ganker-20&crid=2IHJI4WXE0GYJ&keywords=RCBS+press&qid=1659594959&s=sporting-goods&sprefix=rcbs+press%2Csporting%2C115&sr=1-6
- Shell Plates for your press. These hold your shells in place while you're either mounting primers or seating bullets/loading powder. You'll need one for each caliber you plan to load with this press.
- Good Digital Scale of some kind. As I mentioned earlier, all the major manufacturers like Lee, Franklin Armory, RCBS all make their own digital powder scales and are a good thing to have.
- Powder Cups/Trickler - Cups are the cheapest and will produce the most accurate loads, but they're slow as balls. Digital powder tricklers solve the problem of both your digital scale and allow you to quickly send out charge after charge once you set and calibrate them, but again, are very expensive. That starter kit above has a manual trickler that is mostly okay but takes a lot of tweaking to get right so be careful.
- Brass tumbler and cleaning media - If you're planning to buy used brass or once you use said brass, you'll want to clean it. Lyman and RCBS and Franklin Armory all make dry media tumblers and media and work decently enough, just that they're loud as all hell so definitely put them outside if you're running them.
- Loading Trays - like
https://i.imgur.com/KuzjVDB.jpg
My tips would be stick with a bullet you like per die because once you get those c**ts set it is a pain in the ass to have to reset them for a different bullet. I think 44 is pretty straight forward to load, just get a giant tub of 2400 and go to town.
shows in their pic, you'll want a couple of plastic holding trays that support the .44mag shells so you can safely keep track of what you're doing with your rounds from primer seating - > powder filling - > fully complete rounds.
Ammo Storage boxes and index cards - You'll want to have some place to store your completed ammo and small index cards to stick in the box indicating your load settings and what you used so you can replicate the recipe if you go a long time between reloads.
This should be enough to get you started parts wise. Hope it helps!
I don't get it. I don't reload 44 mag but I'm looking at the load data available on hodgdon's reload data center and they're literally just the same loads that this guy is posting here. The specific load I'm looking at is a 240 gr bullet being pushed by 24 gr of h110. This is a common load for this bullet for carbines and revolvers if you are using a magnum powder. Which you should. How is this special for desert eagles?
That's interesting, my Lyman manual caps out at 23.5 for H110 but a longer OAL of 1.610. When I was first reloading I made a bunch of reloads at that spec discovered they were all too damn big to fit the Desert Eagle's magazine. That's the main issue I was running into at least.
auto loaders are finnicky about cartridge length, that's not at all unique to desert eagles. But I suppose there's a unique challenge that you can play with cartridge length on a revolver without interfering with the mechanical operation of the firearm and you're using a revolver cartridge in an autoloader.
Instead of a dry tumbler, you can use a wet tumbler. Basically a washing machine for brass that works the same way as one for clothes, it's just a barrel full of water, dish soap, steel pins (semi-optional), and a tiny touch of brass polish, on top of a motor that spins the barrel. They don't create dust, they use water and soap instead of walnut husks, they're about four times faster, they can clean your primer pockets if you use the pins and deprime all your cases first, and they get your brass shinier. If you run it without pins, it'll clean the outsides of the cases perfectly but leave a thin coating of whatever fouling was in your cases still inside of them, with the pins the entire exposed surface inside and out will be spotless.
The downside is that drying the brass and separating the pins can be a pain in the ass. I use a magnet immediately after pouring the cases out, and then manually check the insides of the cases as I throw them in my brass bin after they dry. I also can't add sizing wax/lube in the same step the same way you can with a dry tumbler, but it does get them damn clean inside and out and I don't need to worry about possible lead dust settling in my reloading room.
You do need to replace the pins every few hundred to a thousand cycles that use them, but you'd need to replace the walnut media in your dry tumbler many times over before then.
Look online for brass and bullets, save any brass you shoot from factory ammunition. Some people will buy bullet casting supplies and then pay it off by selling bullets to anyone around that might want them, find out if anyone at whatever clubs you might be part of our just in your area casts .44 bullets and might be willing to sell some. Just google "reloading bullets (insert town/city/state/province/etc.)" and you'll sometimes strike gold, I found a little old couple in the mountains in my province that cast bullets in their garage and sell them online to supplement their pensions.
Buy powder in store whenever possible, many gun shops carry it and hazmat fees aren't fun so it's usually worth it even if the prices are noticeably higher than what you see online.
Do absolutely anything you can to get your hands on primers right now. Usually it would be the same deal as buying powder, just go into a store and they'll usually have something, but for the last couple years it's been ridiculously difficult to find primers. I've been finding old dudes online that want a little extra spending money and have tens of thousands of primers kicking around in their basements and buying a few hundred here, a few hundred there, whatever they're willing to sell.
https://www.midwayusa.com/reloading-supplies/c?cid=9315
https://www.powdervalleyinc.com/product-category/reloading-supplies/
Single stage RCBS https://www.rcbs.com/presses/single-stage/rock-chucker-supreme-press/16-9356.html this one seems good for me, like how you can use a part of the press to push in the primer
cont'd
- Brass tumbler and cleaning media - If you're planning to buy used brass or once you use said brass, you'll want to clean it. Lyman and RCBS and Franklin Armory all make dry media tumblers and media and work decently enough, just that they're loud as all hell so definitely put them outside if you're running them.
- Loading Trays - like [...] shows in their pic, you'll want a couple of plastic holding trays that support the .44mag shells so you can safely keep track of what you're doing with your rounds from primer seating - > powder filling - > fully complete rounds.
Ammo Storage boxes and index cards - You'll want to have some place to store your completed ammo and small index cards to stick in the box indicating your load settings and what you used so you can replicate the recipe if you go a long time between reloads.
This should be enough to get you started parts wise. Hope it helps!
[...]
That's interesting, my Lyman manual caps out at 23.5 for H110 but a longer OAL of 1.610. When I was first reloading I made a bunch of reloads at that spec discovered they were all too damn big to fit the Desert Eagle's magazine. That's the main issue I was running into at least.
https://www.amazon.com/Frankford-Arsenal-Leakproof-Polishing-Reloading/dp/B07KT8NQS8 plan on a wait tumbler with some good digital calipers. For ammo storage, good airtight boxes with desiccant for good measure. Again thank you for helping this
About 160 FPS between 240gr loads, which doesn't sound like a lot, but that's around 280 ft lbs or about 25% more energy AND you get to use a barrel that doesn't look goofy and is easier to shoot with.
Those are valid points, but I feel like a lot of .44 Mag deagle owners went with that caliber for the logistical benefits and would rather deal with an extra 4" of barrel than buy another set of reloading dies.
I also feel that Magnum Research is shooting themselves in the foot by refusing to make 10" .429 DE barrels, since maximum velocity is the whole point of it.
My tips would be stick with a bullet you like per die because once you get those c**ts set it is a pain in the ass to have to reset them for a different bullet. I think 44 is pretty straight forward to load, just get a giant tub of 2400 and go to town.
>stick with a bullet you like per die because once you get those c**ts set it is a pain in the ass to have to reset them for a different bullet
I switched bullets for one caliber over the weekend because my favorites don't exist anymore. It took me about 5 minutes to set the correct seating depth and crimp. You might just be moronic.
>reloading .44 Mag
It's like $.80cents a round, stop being such a b***h. You only need 150rounds in stock, it's not like you're going to be saving up ammo in bulk for SHTF with .44amg and a Deagle is too yuge to daily carry. You really need to stop being such a b***h. Now if you had said .50AE then that would be different, .50AE is $3 a round plus.
I shoot .308 in bulk and it's hovering around .60cents a round. Could you be less of a b***h please?
Could you kindly go frick yourself, upside down and sideways, pretty please? Some people like to practice with their firearms more than once in a blue moon, and handloading offers tailored ammunition, you loud mouthed sack of shit.
You can do what you want but training seriously with Deagle is pants on head moronic. It's so wildly different from other handguns in size, recoil and design that there's no transferable benefits comparable to other handguns. Taking a range toy seriously makes me think you're compensating. You're the kind of tard that has negligent discharges cause you finger frick you stuff too much.
Op here, you're forgetting the point that I'm doing this because it's fun to me, it's a fun hobby to get behind. You're taking this too seriously
Deagles are collector's items and vanity items. They hold good value and are always an eye candy. He didn't buy a Deagle to be practical, I'm assuming.
Your right. I got it because it is ridiculous and cuz I can
And learning to manage that size and recoil is important if you want to learn to hit the broad side of a barn occasionally. Regardless, reloading .44 magnum to shoot it more than a few times a year and get better performence is absolutely worth it if one so chooses, and you're a ignorant prick if you'd deride others for doing so. Frick off, we're having fun discussing load data for our big bores over here and your opinion is irrelevant.
Deagles are collector's items and vanity items. They hold good value and are always an eye candy. He didn't buy a Deagle to be practical, I'm assuming.
You are absolutely, 100% wrong in all ways, including how the DE jams, it only stovepipes when you limpwrist, so if one did that while you were shooting it, that was your fault for having b***h-wrists.
New Deagle owner here, due to unreasonable 1500J limits on my club range i'm pondering gettnig a .357 conversion kit for the fiddy.
How bad is the alledged jamming when shooting .357?
Is it only a weak load thing, an COL thing, rim jam or what?
Pretty much the same as the .44, though not as temperamental. You’ll have to seat your bullets lower than most manuals recommended oals to fit in thr mags and you’ll need to set your powder charges to the upper end of the power band to reliably generate enough oomph to cycle the action.
Yeah pick up a .357 magnum barrel, bolt, and magazine if that’s what you’re dealing with, the magazines are tough to find right now but it sounds like you’re in the EU so you might have better luck there. I personally have 3 different .357 mag barrels as pictured here
https://i.imgur.com/DuzKQMJ.jpg
I’ve never had problems with any of the 3 .357 magnum barrels I own but the .44 mag is temperamental and the .50AEs work regardless of how dirty the gun is due to how violently it cycles with most .50AE.
and they’ll all been very reliable and haven’t caused me any hiccups with a wide variety of ammo.
The only time you'd really even care to do that is if you're making loads for competition or hunting. If you're plinking out of a revolver you're going to see next to no benefit. Though if you have the tools to do it, might as well.
my advice is to get these books that compile all the load data for a single round from all the other books. they are small and cheap and its much easier to find the data youre looking for in them
44 reloaded here. All I've ever done is follow the directions in my Hornady reloading manual. If you can read and operate a scale you're good. 44 mag is the most based cartridge around, have fun!
Oh and double and triple check everything you do. Trust me. Also, in this market, don't worry too much about finding the ultimate loan. Work with what you can get and stay in the parameters outlined in your manual. Build a very sturdy bench rest for testing and find the load that works best for you. With a 44, I do my testing at 40 yards.
>Oh and double and triple check everything you do. Trust me
Scouts Honor!
https://i.imgur.com/F6bV3SB.jpg
44 reloaded here. All I've ever done is follow the directions in my Hornady reloading manual. If you can read and operate a scale you're good. 44 mag is the most based cartridge around, have fun!
Nice
As for bullets I chose to go with Hornady XTP 44 Caliber, 240 Grain, Hollow Point. Now I need to get my hands on H1-110
Reloading 44 mag is easy. Basically 2x the powder of 9mm. Just get a book or check the manfactures website. You will only run into issues with fast burning powder that dont fill the case.
Do not get into reloading by reloading .44 mag. I would start with bottle-necked rifle cartridges, like .223 or .308. Reloading handgun is more complicated and is more dangerous if you frick up. And magnums are even more dangerous and take more skill.
Don't listen to
Handload while drinking and watching Nascar
RaisehailprazeDale
And smoking, I like a pipe full of Lane's Q1 or any English tobacco, as Im charging a tray of ammo and drinking coffee with VSOP in it. 24 grain..or was it 28? Whutevz. I throw a couple of handfuls of VV135 that my .357 likes in the powder dispenser and shake that b***h. Makes the rifle rounds extra spicy. Lyman 49 ? No baby, that shiz fo squares.
No room for error when it comes to .44 Mag, I understand now the correct measurements are paramount to safety. I have been scavenging for .44, sometimes I wish to reload my own. I do want to be more independent when it comes to ammo
Optics with her is mad fun
hotrounds might not be so bad for the DE since its gas operated with an AR-style bolt
>no room for error
Depends on the strength of the gun. A Super Blackhawk in 44 Mag is proofed to 80,000psi. So you have a large margin of ERROR over the 40,000psi SAAMI spec for at least one shot so you can realize something is wrong.
If you make an error and you're a little bit above SAAMI on max loads with a strong gun, you're probably okay as long as you don't make a habit of fricking up intentionally.
You can accidently go over SAAMI pressures by simply having a different powder allotment that's hotter/faster compared to the one your manual had used in testing.
I'm not advocating running anything above listed pressures, just that reality will probably mean you're going to shoot a load that was hotter than normal in your lifetime even when doing your due diligence in yoir loading process.
That was exactly why I got a super blackhawk when I decided to get a .44 mag. Lots of margin.
And then the only problem I actually have is a squib in the first few hundred.
I love my super black hawk. It's my truck carry gun
Sadly echoing this as well. If you're insisting on reloading for a Desert Eagle, get and reload for the .50 AE cartridge.
The problem with the .44 and .357 magnum rounds is that they're primarily revolver/lever action cartridges with their rimmed cases, and a large chunk of the load data out there assumes you will be using those rounds in those guns and not the Desert Eagle. There's recipes online sure from other shooters, but again, you're gambling on other folks' testing data.
Due to the gas system the DE uses, you need to make the rounds really damn hot in order to generate enough gas to reliably cycle the action. In addition you're going to be seating the bullets slightly lower than the recommended OAL (Overall Length) in order for them to fit in the magazine and cycle properly at least that's what I had to do with my magazines in my .44 mag model.
Crimping magnum cartridges is also very tricky as you can cause pressure buildups if you overcrimp so there's that too.
With .50 AE, that round was designed from the get-go for the desert eagle so there is reliable load data for it out there.
That said, if you want some recipes, here's what I use:
Wincherster W296 or Hodgedon H-110: 23-23.5 grains depending on your bullet, but at a 240gr weight with Winchester Large Pistol Primers.
Use fully plated bullets ONLY otherwise you'll clog the gas port. Do not use FTX/Tipped bullets as they won't feed reliably unless you seat them super low in the shell to fit in the magazine.
My OAL is about 1.585 inches, which is lower than the recommended 1.600 for a .44 magnum, but it's the only way I can reliably get them to feed in the magazine with the bullets I have. I'd start at 23 grains of powder and go from there.
there's also these threads from calguns with several folks offering their recipes:
https://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/showthread.php?t=342308
https://calguns.net/calgunforum/showthread.php?t=1613201
personally I'd just use the cartridge as a scoop for Titegroup and compress the piss out of it, she'll do ya just fine
Yeah W296 and H110 was all I had access to in my area sadly. Got two 8lb jugs one of each of them so that's my recipe for the forseeable future.
They definitely make large fireballs at least! But frick the rounds are goddamn loud
Those kind of fireballs make the gun even more voluptuous
even with mild loads 15.5 under a 158gr jhp produce an impressive fireball from my 6 inch revolver, the same loads from my 3 inch .357 are Hollywood tier. that being said, I love the smell of H110, burnt or otherwise, It's kind like taking a good whiff of hoppes #9
I’ve never had problems with any of the 3 .357 magnum barrels I own but the .44 mag is temperamental and the .50AEs work regardless of how dirty the gun is due to how violently it cycles with most .50AE.
Awesome. How's that 10" barrel shoot? I've seen folks at the range with it once or twice and it's a sight to behold every time.
Very nicely, it’s hilarious to make the same plates that are swinging with 5.56 at 100yds, wrap themselves around the target stand several times with .50AE 325gr.
The .357 mag one on the gun is noticeably more heavy than the .50AE 10in, same barrel profile, much smaller caliber.
>The problem with the .44 and .357 magnum rounds is that they're primarily revolver/lever action cartridges with their rimmed cases, and a large chunk of the load data out there assumes you will be using those rounds in those guns and not the Desert Eagle. There's recipes online sure from other shooters, but again, you're gambling on other folks' testing data.
Be that as it may, The Mark XIX .44 Mag has improved and if I can say performs admirably just as long you lub her and hold her proper, Weaver stance
True that, grip is half the battle in making sure the gun fires reliably.
Half the battle lol, I plan on getting this one https://shopkahrfirearmsgroup.com/grips/magnum-research-de-rubber-grip-w-finger-grooves.asp to help mitigate recoil
Yeah it’s way better than the stock plastic grips for that and it kinda helps the “point-ability” if that makes sense.
I wanted a Aimpoint for this so much but it didn't happen. Hey anon, do you plan on using optics for your DE?
Yeah I want to get a couple red dots for the barrels, I have a scope too but I can’t get the rings to square up correctly.
1 MOA RMR master race
based fellow magnum pervert
>tranime
yikes
Thank you again anon, you've been tremendous it helps a lot. H-110 got it
yeah that book will walk you through it
there are only a couple of steps:
just read the book first
Duly noted, ty. Books first, then supplies after that read some more then start when I'm ready. Need a good table first
table, might as well get a vice to mount to the table
case tumbler?
>case tumbler?
I add it to the list, again thank you so much
powder scale
case holders (you can use the plastic bits that come in ammo boxes somtimes)
Desiccant?
Love that stuff, helps keep things dry like Ammo.
I thought everybody just had like a hundred pounds of the stuff just lying about
Glad I can help out. Let me know if you run into any issues if you manage to get your stuff together before the thread archives.
If all you're loading for is a DE, then starting with a single stage press is much safer. It's a lot slower loading ammo, but you get to take the time to make sure you get your charges right.
What i'd recommend is find a box of factory ammo that feeds reliably in your desert eagle and take measurements of the rounds, particularly their OAL. The big enemies you'll be facing loading for a deagle are:
- Making sure you make the round "hot" enough to cycle the action
- Adjusting the OAL of the cartridge to fit and feed reliably in your magazine. For the type of bullets I strongly recommend plated/full jacketed round nose type bullets. I've had mixed results using the flat point target ammo with my particular model, but it might just be my model or my magazines. Either way, round nose, even hollowpoint round nose bullets that are fully plated/jacketed are the way to go.
From there, if you don't have a digital scale, get a decent one either from Franklin Armory or Lee or RCBS. If you don't want to spend the dosh for a digital powder trickler Lee makes powder cups that you can trickle powder into a pan and then into your case, but it's painfully slow.
Just take your time and work in small batches. And remember to start at the low end with H-110. It's a high power powder and pressure can spike hard. Start at 23grains for a 240gr bullet and you should be safe. If you're getting unburnt powder spitting back into your face, consider getting a hold of magnum pistol primers as well as they'll detonate more cleanly, but regular large pistol primers should still work and will probably be easier to source.
Good luck and good shooting!
>What i'd recommend is find a box of factory ammo that feeds reliably in your desert eagle and take measurements of the rounds, particularly their OAL. The big enemies you'll be facing loading for a deagle are:
Duly noted, I have those checked off. As for supplies I still need to save up and make a list first. But in the meantime I'll do more research on my part. I really do appreciate you and everyone's input, it means a lot to help a stranger.
>The problem with the .44 and .357 magnum rounds is that they're primarily revolver/lever action cartridges with their rimmed cases, and a large chunk of the load data out there assumes you will be using those rounds in those guns and not the Desert Eagle
What did he mean by this? 357 mag revolvers take them as hot as they come.
t. Someone who reloads 357 mag
He just means you ideally want a load that burns as clean as possible in a 6in barrel, the more unburnt powder, the more gets ejected into the gun through the gas system, the rougher the gun will start to run.
Remington .44mag JSP have a huge flash and fireball because most of the powder is burning outside the barrel, not inside, as it’s meant to be shot out of a 16in lever gun barrel.
Yeah, the Deagle's gas system is such a pain to tune for as you basically have to make piss-hot loads to cycle it, but a lot of unburnt powder tends to fly out with it, at least when I'm using W296 or H-110. I think I need to upgrade to Magnum primers to get more reliable detonation imo, but finding this is a royal pain in the ass right now so I'm stuck with Large Pistol only.
H110 is generally recommended to be used with magnum primers.
W296/H110 is the archetypical magnum primer powder. You basically need magnum primers to get any sort of decent ignition, I'm surprised you haven't been told that before. HS-6 is the only medium rate powder I can think of that really needs mag primers, but almost all the really slow magnum powders (enforcer/4100, 4227, Li'l Gun, etc.) need them other than 2400.
Yeah the shop I bought my powder from basically just shrugged and said "eh should work" when I asked about using magnum or large pistol, and I trusted his word on it. They still work for sure, but yeah, my face gets bits of unburnt powder spit back at me all the time. I've just gotten used to it.
Your loads will clean up considerably and your groups will shrink in half if you switch to magnum powders. Seriously, WW296/H110 (same stuff, different label) needs them. Also, try a faster powder if you want target loads with reduced boom and fouling. The stuff I listed in
or anything in that range will work nicely. Maybe try IMR/H 4227 if you really want high end performance but magnum primers don't clean up the H110 enough.
I switched to 1680 from H110 for some of my larger magnum loads. I don't know if it is just me but H110 always binds up in my bloody powder hopper and I will say the 1680 is definitely...spicy.
I've never tried 1680, I'll need to check it out if I can find it. I have heard of powder measures binding up with H110, mine doesn't bind but it does stiffen up considerably. The charges still throw super accurately, though. If you want to try again, consider using a dipper and a powder trickler to weigh out individual charges, but that might be far too much work if you aren't trying for anything short of single-hole loads
I forgot to mention, you choose primers based on powder, not based on if you're using a magnum cartridge. Powders that burn easily will light up just fine with standard primers, it's mostly the slow end of powders that need the magnums. HS-6 is a weird one that really needs magnums despite being in the medium-slow zone with a lot of powders slower than it working just fine with standards. It works well though, there's no arguing that. It's the powder most often use for duplicating the FBI .38 spl +P load. 158 grain LSWCHP, 7.0 grains of HS-6, .38 spl brass, magnum primer. I do nearly same load out of a magnum case in my .357 magnum for a major power factor load, except I use half a grain more to meet PF and use a copper plated bullet. It's been hard to find recently, so I'll probably switch to CFE-P for a while, it's supposed to be similar-ish in performance but with a copper fouling reducer added.
I keep forgetting to mention this group was only at 5 yards, I'm not some kind of god-tier marksman.
>you choose primers based on powder, not based on if you're using a magnu
Is CCi large pistol primers .300 efficient for h110?
I'll make sure you guys will be the first to know on my progress, really I'm excited about this. I'll be very diligent on this process. Don't get me wrong I understand that safety is paramount with a bullet caliber this size but the sense of danger is somewhat exciting in a way that knowing that I didn't blow my hand up is because I followed the right recipe. Sorry wish I could talk more but I'm at work.
No. H110 is the same powder as WW296, just with the Hodgdon label instead of the Winchester one. Both are packaged and distributed by Hodgdon, and are made by... Olin if I remember correctly. Most Winchester powders are like that, with a Hodgdon label twin. This powder needs magnum primers. The only slow magnum powder that lights up easily with standard primers that I know of is 2400, but that stuff is unicorn blood right now. IMR or H (same thing in this case but not always) 4227 may work with standard primers under certain conditions, but I can't remember since I haven't gotten my hands on any yet.
I only use magnum primers because 90% of the powders I use recommend them
I have some universal I stick into target / plinking rounds and I just don't give a shit enough to have two different kinds of primers just for that one powder
Cheers, I'll keep that in mind. I'll start lookin for magnum primers when they become available around here. Powder Valley used to be my go-to, but finding stuff in stock has been damn near impossible lately.
Finding any primers lately has been a once in a blue moon thing for a while, if you can find any grab a few. I've been reduced to buying them second hand driving all over the province and paying fudds half again what they'd normally be worth.
yeah that's about what it's looking like. Most of the stores around here if they even have them in stock are restricting folks to only buying 1-2 100 primer trays max per day. It's fricking insane.
Easy fix, use top end data using a medium burn rate powder. 12 grains of CFE-P, 15 grains HS-6, or 16 grains of No. 7 would fit the bill nicely.
I don't get it. I don't reload 44 mag but I'm looking at the load data available on hodgdon's reload data center and they're literally just the same loads that this guy is posting here. The specific load I'm looking at is a 240 gr bullet being pushed by 24 gr of h110. This is a common load for this bullet for carbines and revolvers if you are using a magnum powder. Which you should. How is this special for desert eagles?
I would think that load is safe, I load 250gr XTP's in 45 Colt over 26.5gr of H110. 1.600 COAL
I never said it wasn't safe, the opposite in fact: the load is textbook. My point was that it isnt some hidden lore for loading desert eagles. It's the same as a round you would load for any revolver, but you have to mind the cartridge length. That is not special to desert eagles, I have to mind cartridge length when I load 9mm or .40 for my autoloaders too.
Not him, but a magazine restricts COAL where a cylinder chamber likely wouldn't.
I have zero interest in the desert eagle, it's just nice to know that /k/ still exists somewhere out there. Bless you, anon
Eyyy glad I can help out folks in some small way.
Hey man, maybe don't go loading some anons special hand cannon blend you found on /k/ Go buy a proper reloading book. Lyman is a good choice
I would say it's the opposite and that magnums might actually be safer since you tend to use slower powders for the best performance. On the other hand, if you compress a fast handgun powder you can easily kb a gun or even get injured. You will actually find compressed loads for .357 in reloading manuals for H110. Looking through my Lyman manual, 44 magnum with IMR 4227 might be idiot proof since it has compressed loads up to 240 gr and still gives okay performance (which is probably want you want for a desert eagle anyways).
Exactly. I cannot possibly double charge a case with h110 in 357 mag. 22 grains is almost completely full. There's barely room to seat the bullet without disturbing the powder and when the bullet is pressed into place some compression is definitely taking place. This isn't some crazy hot load, it's a recommended charge for this powder and bullet combination.
That sounds like a 135 gr XTP load. Yeah, I'm pretty sure the limiting factor there is how much powder you can cram in the case and still get it to seat. The bullet is just so light that the pressure can't build up for a magnum powder. I've started playing around with COAL to see if I can cram an extra grain or two in and break the 2350 fps advertised in the reloading manual out of a rifle.
*125 gr XTP, not 135 gr
Is reloading .357 and .44 mag any easier for revolvers and lever guns? Not OP
yea u can run anything in those because it doesnt rely on the pressure from the round to cycle the action
I don't know about the DE, but I learned to reload using a .357 magnum S&W Model 19 revolver and Marlin 1894 carbine, and here's my take on it.
Rimmed, straight wall revolver rounds are the absolute easiest thing out there to reload. There's no need to worry about brass annealing or shoulder setback, bullet depth is set by a cannelure worked into the bullet itself, headspace is controlled by the rim so you can fudge about with the trimming and don't need to worry about where the case mouth or any other feature is, you don't need to worry about squibs nearly as much if you use lead bullets since often just the pressure from the primer is enough to pop them out the barrel, and you can use a huge range of powders.
HOWEVER, you do not want to start right at the high edge of pissing hot magnum level loads. That's a good way to blow yourself all to tiny bits. You want to start out with using the high end of the corresponding "special" data, but in a magnum case. Doing that you should be good to go even if you accidentally throw a double charge, and you'll get pleasant to shoot loads that ease you into learning good posture and recoil management. Once you have that down, work up a low end magnum load, then a high end magnum load if you feel you want more horsepower. My model 19 likes medium level target and low end defensive loads, my Marlin seems to thrive the harder I push it and could probably handle some massively overloaded cartridges if I made a mistake (though I never EVER go beyond book data, just in case a load intended for the carbine ends up in the revolver). I'd recommend the LEE deluxe four die carbide pistol sets for dies, since lube isn't mandatory with them and you can separate the bullet seating and crimping steps. Any decent press will work, though I wouldn't recommend a "C" press or a handheld press.
If you guys have a .357 or .44 magnum revolver available, learn to reload on it. It's the absolute best training platform there is.
Also how do you even double charge magnum loads in 357 mag? 22 grains of w296 nearly fills the entire case.
if u use fast burning powder like titegroup where youre only supposed to use like 6 grains. u can double charge it. i use titegroup pretty much exclusively for pistol rounds because that shit goes a long way but i always seat the bullet right after i put the powder in the case one at a time so i know i'm not double charging any
nice try kid.
a primer does not have the gas pressure to force a bullet through a barrel of a revolver lmao.
the cylinder gap alone will vent enough gas from the tiny primer out so that the bullet just barely will stick in the barrel, max 2 lengths of bullet stuck inside is all i have seen with cartridges that didnt have powder inside. doesnt matter if its small pistol or small pistol magnum either.
I might try it, just to intentionally squib so I can feel it happen. But I don't know how much of a pita it is to extract a bullet that is stuck in the barrel. I know plugging a barrel is something that is done with lead to make cast ammo, but I don't shoot lead so I don't know if it's wise to do with a jacketed projectile.
you only need a rod of aluminium or brass and a few taps with a light hammer to drive the bullet out, like i said the primer alone will not drive the bullet very far into the barrel. very simple process, no damage potential to your gun.
right... Does anyone know what equipment I need to do the job right? any research tips?
buy a copy of The ABCs of Reloading the Definitive Guide for Novice to Expert
sound about right? Found the book on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/ABCs-Reloading-Definitive-Novice-Expert/dp/1440213968
Press vise & Dies, is RCBS okay for a beginner? and does CCI large pistol primer .300 work well?
Also OP I might as well cobble together a list of stuff you'll need assuming you're starting from scratch. This will probably be addressed in the reloading book there so you should be good on that front. I also see you mentioned having H-110 powder and the dies
here so you're covered there.
Here's roughly what you'll want to have handy in no particular order:
- Solid table to work on, if possible one you can mount your press to.
- if your table doesn't support a press, you may need to get a freestanding mount like this one to mount your press securely to it. https://www.amazon.com/LEE-PRECISION-90688-Reloading-Stand/dp/B00162RW66
- Reloading Press. As I mentioned earlier, single stage is simpler and cheaper to start out, but significantly slower. Turrets are the next step up, but a bit more complicated to setup . RCBS makes some solid ones and even has a starter kit with nearly everything you need to get started https://www.amazon.com/RCBS-Rebel-Master-Reloading-Kit_9251/dp/B0873VP33B/ref=sr_1_6?tag=ganker-20&crid=2IHJI4WXE0GYJ&keywords=RCBS+press&qid=1659594959&s=sporting-goods&sprefix=rcbs+press%2Csporting%2C115&sr=1-6
- Shell Plates for your press. These hold your shells in place while you're either mounting primers or seating bullets/loading powder. You'll need one for each caliber you plan to load with this press.
- Good Digital Scale of some kind. As I mentioned earlier, all the major manufacturers like Lee, Franklin Armory, RCBS all make their own digital powder scales and are a good thing to have.
- Powder Cups/Trickler - Cups are the cheapest and will produce the most accurate loads, but they're slow as balls. Digital powder tricklers solve the problem of both your digital scale and allow you to quickly send out charge after charge once you set and calibrate them, but again, are very expensive. That starter kit above has a manual trickler that is mostly okay but takes a lot of tweaking to get right so be careful.
cont'd
- Brass tumbler and cleaning media - If you're planning to buy used brass or once you use said brass, you'll want to clean it. Lyman and RCBS and Franklin Armory all make dry media tumblers and media and work decently enough, just that they're loud as all hell so definitely put them outside if you're running them.
- Loading Trays - like
shows in their pic, you'll want a couple of plastic holding trays that support the .44mag shells so you can safely keep track of what you're doing with your rounds from primer seating - > powder filling - > fully complete rounds.
Ammo Storage boxes and index cards - You'll want to have some place to store your completed ammo and small index cards to stick in the box indicating your load settings and what you used so you can replicate the recipe if you go a long time between reloads.
This should be enough to get you started parts wise. Hope it helps!
That's interesting, my Lyman manual caps out at 23.5 for H110 but a longer OAL of 1.610. When I was first reloading I made a bunch of reloads at that spec discovered they were all too damn big to fit the Desert Eagle's magazine. That's the main issue I was running into at least.
auto loaders are finnicky about cartridge length, that's not at all unique to desert eagles. But I suppose there's a unique challenge that you can play with cartridge length on a revolver without interfering with the mechanical operation of the firearm and you're using a revolver cartridge in an autoloader.
Instead of a dry tumbler, you can use a wet tumbler. Basically a washing machine for brass that works the same way as one for clothes, it's just a barrel full of water, dish soap, steel pins (semi-optional), and a tiny touch of brass polish, on top of a motor that spins the barrel. They don't create dust, they use water and soap instead of walnut husks, they're about four times faster, they can clean your primer pockets if you use the pins and deprime all your cases first, and they get your brass shinier. If you run it without pins, it'll clean the outsides of the cases perfectly but leave a thin coating of whatever fouling was in your cases still inside of them, with the pins the entire exposed surface inside and out will be spotless.
The downside is that drying the brass and separating the pins can be a pain in the ass. I use a magnet immediately after pouring the cases out, and then manually check the insides of the cases as I throw them in my brass bin after they dry. I also can't add sizing wax/lube in the same step the same way you can with a dry tumbler, but it does get them damn clean inside and out and I don't need to worry about possible lead dust settling in my reloading room.
You do need to replace the pins every few hundred to a thousand cycles that use them, but you'd need to replace the walnut media in your dry tumbler many times over before then.
I gotta fell in love with the process lol
Also I didn't get the chance to ask where can I get ammo material like bullets powder and primers? So far I collected the dies & shell holder
u can search for reloading consumables on ammoseek
Look online for brass and bullets, save any brass you shoot from factory ammunition. Some people will buy bullet casting supplies and then pay it off by selling bullets to anyone around that might want them, find out if anyone at whatever clubs you might be part of our just in your area casts .44 bullets and might be willing to sell some. Just google "reloading bullets (insert town/city/state/province/etc.)" and you'll sometimes strike gold, I found a little old couple in the mountains in my province that cast bullets in their garage and sell them online to supplement their pensions.
Buy powder in store whenever possible, many gun shops carry it and hazmat fees aren't fun so it's usually worth it even if the prices are noticeably higher than what you see online.
Do absolutely anything you can to get your hands on primers right now. Usually it would be the same deal as buying powder, just go into a store and they'll usually have something, but for the last couple years it's been ridiculously difficult to find primers. I've been finding old dudes online that want a little extra spending money and have tens of thousands of primers kicking around in their basements and buying a few hundred here, a few hundred there, whatever they're willing to sell.
https://www.midwayusa.com/reloading-supplies/c?cid=9315
https://www.powdervalleyinc.com/product-category/reloading-supplies/
Single stage RCBS https://www.rcbs.com/presses/single-stage/rock-chucker-supreme-press/16-9356.html this one seems good for me, like how you can use a part of the press to push in the primer
https://www.amazon.com/Frankford-Arsenal-Leakproof-Polishing-Reloading/dp/B07KT8NQS8 plan on a wait tumbler with some good digital calipers. For ammo storage, good airtight boxes with desiccant for good measure. Again thank you for helping this
21gr N110 - Hornady, JTC-Sil 240gr, 1.602 inch COAL works for me. Classic magnum load with enough gas pressure to cycle the pistol.
fill it to the top and glue the bullet in with cement glue. Its easy
>advice for reloading .44 Mag for my DE
Buy a .429DE barrel. If you're already reloading, make it ultra spicy.
What's the velocity difference between 6" .429 DE and 10" .44 Mag?
About 160 FPS between 240gr loads, which doesn't sound like a lot, but that's around 280 ft lbs or about 25% more energy AND you get to use a barrel that doesn't look goofy and is easier to shoot with.
Those are valid points, but I feel like a lot of .44 Mag deagle owners went with that caliber for the logistical benefits and would rather deal with an extra 4" of barrel than buy another set of reloading dies.
I also feel that Magnum Research is shooting themselves in the foot by refusing to make 10" .429 DE barrels, since maximum velocity is the whole point of it.
My tips would be stick with a bullet you like per die because once you get those c**ts set it is a pain in the ass to have to reset them for a different bullet. I think 44 is pretty straight forward to load, just get a giant tub of 2400 and go to town.
>stick with a bullet you like per die because once you get those c**ts set it is a pain in the ass to have to reset them for a different bullet
I switched bullets for one caliber over the weekend because my favorites don't exist anymore. It took me about 5 minutes to set the correct seating depth and crimp. You might just be moronic.
make a dummy round for each bullet you reload, then just set the seating die to the dummy round.
>reloading .44 Mag
It's like $.80cents a round, stop being such a b***h. You only need 150rounds in stock, it's not like you're going to be saving up ammo in bulk for SHTF with .44amg and a Deagle is too yuge to daily carry. You really need to stop being such a b***h. Now if you had said .50AE then that would be different, .50AE is $3 a round plus.
I shoot .308 in bulk and it's hovering around .60cents a round. Could you be less of a b***h please?
Could you kindly go frick yourself, upside down and sideways, pretty please? Some people like to practice with their firearms more than once in a blue moon, and handloading offers tailored ammunition, you loud mouthed sack of shit.
You can do what you want but training seriously with Deagle is pants on head moronic. It's so wildly different from other handguns in size, recoil and design that there's no transferable benefits comparable to other handguns. Taking a range toy seriously makes me think you're compensating. You're the kind of tard that has negligent discharges cause you finger frick you stuff too much.
Op here, you're forgetting the point that I'm doing this because it's fun to me, it's a fun hobby to get behind. You're taking this too seriously
Your right. I got it because it is ridiculous and cuz I can
And learning to manage that size and recoil is important if you want to learn to hit the broad side of a barn occasionally. Regardless, reloading .44 magnum to shoot it more than a few times a year and get better performence is absolutely worth it if one so chooses, and you're a ignorant prick if you'd deride others for doing so. Frick off, we're having fun discussing load data for our big bores over here and your opinion is irrelevant.
>but training seriously with Deagle is pants on head moronic.
>He doesn’t know .357 mag is 10+1 in the Desert Eagle and has the recoil of a 9mm
> big heavy boat anchor that is prone to stove pipes
sell the DE. it gets boring after a few months.
Deagles are collector's items and vanity items. They hold good value and are always an eye candy. He didn't buy a Deagle to be practical, I'm assuming.
You are absolutely, 100% wrong in all ways, including how the DE jams, it only stovepipes when you limpwrist, so if one did that while you were shooting it, that was your fault for having b***h-wrists.
New Deagle owner here, due to unreasonable 1500J limits on my club range i'm pondering gettnig a .357 conversion kit for the fiddy.
How bad is the alledged jamming when shooting .357?
Is it only a weak load thing, an COL thing, rim jam or what?
Pretty much the same as the .44, though not as temperamental. You’ll have to seat your bullets lower than most manuals recommended oals to fit in thr mags and you’ll need to set your powder charges to the upper end of the power band to reliably generate enough oomph to cycle the action.
Yeah pick up a .357 magnum barrel, bolt, and magazine if that’s what you’re dealing with, the magazines are tough to find right now but it sounds like you’re in the EU so you might have better luck there. I personally have 3 different .357 mag barrels as pictured here
and they’ll all been very reliable and haven’t caused me any hiccups with a wide variety of ammo.
Load the hotter, heavier loads or they won't cycle your gun.
Is .429 cal okay for the DE?
Been saving my brass , shells are PMC, Magtech, Hornady, and Sellier & ballot. Getting 260grain .429 Lehigh Defense
do you trim for uniform crimp?
I'm new to reloading, just collecting materials
The only time you'd really even care to do that is if you're making loads for competition or hunting. If you're plinking out of a revolver you're going to see next to no benefit. Though if you have the tools to do it, might as well.
i'm yuro, i'm always competition target shooting
.430+ cal are generally cast bullets that wouldn't be appropriate for a deagle anyway, so I'd certainly hope so
Is a 260 grain bullet to heavy of a bullet for the desert eagle?
Depends on if you can seat it deep enough safely.
No, it shouldn’t and it really just depends if you can seat it deep enough without compressing the charge for it to feed from the magazine.
my advice is to get these books that compile all the load data for a single round from all the other books. they are small and cheap and its much easier to find the data youre looking for in them
Thank you
44 reloaded here. All I've ever done is follow the directions in my Hornady reloading manual. If you can read and operate a scale you're good. 44 mag is the most based cartridge around, have fun!
Oh and double and triple check everything you do. Trust me. Also, in this market, don't worry too much about finding the ultimate loan. Work with what you can get and stay in the parameters outlined in your manual. Build a very sturdy bench rest for testing and find the load that works best for you. With a 44, I do my testing at 40 yards.
>Oh and double and triple check everything you do. Trust me
Scouts Honor!
Nice
As for bullets I chose to go with Hornady XTP 44 Caliber, 240 Grain, Hollow Point. Now I need to get my hands on H1-110
>As for bullets I chose to go with Hornady XTP 44 Caliber, 240 Grain, Hollow Point
Have used these before, they feed and function well.
W296 is identical to h110 if you can't find any of the latter
Sorry you're shooting handgun. For my revolver I do my testing at 20 yards.
Reloading 44 mag is easy. Basically 2x the powder of 9mm. Just get a book or check the manfactures website. You will only run into issues with fast burning powder that dont fill the case.