Where I'm at we always called an abrasive metal saw a chop saw. Miter saws are for wood and you can adjust the angle of the head on them quickly and easily to cut miters...
The terms are interchangeable, really, and it's not like all abrasive saws can't into bevel cuts either. The main difference between a wood miter saw and a metal/abrasive miter saw is the speed of the saw and the material of the housing. Abrasive saws are designed in a way that it won't melt itself down from the sparks.
You might have never seen an abrasive miter saw that could do compound bevels but they are very common in fabrication for e.g. cutting square tubes at angles to be welded.
The only abrasive saws I have seen that have an actual swivel head are huge ones with like a 2hp motor hanging off the back. And honestly most of those I've seen don't swivel either.
>You might have never seen an abrasive miter saw that could do compound bevels
Yeah I've never seen one that could do compound bevels. Miters yes, Compound bevels, no. You do know that "compound" means it will cut bevels in both directions at the same time right? Like the head will swivel around left and right while also tilting the entire head left or right from vertical as well. That is what makes a compound bevel miter saw what it is. Yeah there is probably some built that are out there, but they are not common.
https://i.imgur.com/CBZMQGA.png
Chop saws are the rough cutoff saws that have abrasive discs that get your metal red hot and throw sparks everywhere. They cut miters with their crappy clamps
Miter saws are wood cutting saws, using high RPMs and sharp carbide tipped blades. They cut miters and most cut bevels too (doing both at the same time makes it a "compound" saw)
There are also Cold Cutting saws that look identical to your typical miter saw. They use metal specific carbide tipped blades with more blunt geometries and low RPM to cut metal. They too are mostly compound saws.
They dont heat your metal, they dont throw sparks and in general shit on typical abrasive saws.
Some odd regions might call a miter saw a "chop saw", but most of the country generally agree which saw is which.
>There are also Cold Cutting saws that look identical to your typical miter saw. They use metal specific carbide tipped blades with more blunt geometries and low RPM to cut metal. They too are mostly compound saws. >They dont heat your metal, they dont throw sparks and in general shit on typical abrasive saws.
Cold cut saws are real slow, heavy built, expensive, and typically use flood coolant. Dry cut saws spin faster than cold cut saws, but slower than abrasive chop saws. They use carbide tipped blades and no flood coolant.
3 months ago
Anonymous
Where does the meat go in that last one?
3 months ago
Anonymous
>Where does the meat go in that last one?
In your mom.
Chop saws are the rough cutoff saws that have abrasive discs that get your metal red hot and throw sparks everywhere. They cut miters with their crappy clamps
Miter saws are wood cutting saws, using high RPMs and sharp carbide tipped blades. They cut miters and most cut bevels too (doing both at the same time makes it a "compound" saw)
There are also Cold Cutting saws that look identical to your typical miter saw. They use metal specific carbide tipped blades with more blunt geometries and low RPM to cut metal. They too are mostly compound saws.
They dont heat your metal, they dont throw sparks and in general shit on typical abrasive saws.
Some odd regions might call a miter saw a "chop saw", but most of the country generally agree which saw is which.
>Some odd regions might call a miter saw a "chop saw"
It's like half the country, just not in your neighborhood. >calling a reciprocating saw a "sawzall" >calling a cordless drill a "screwgun" >calling prawns "shrimp" >calling beef wellington ensemble with cheese a "cheeseburger"
>It's like half the country,
No, its just a small handful of morons who are calling a tool the distinctly wrong name.
Calling a cordless drill a screwgun is the same level of stupid.
The tool manufacturers arent confused. Most of the country isnt confused.
If you called a Jigsaw a "reciprocating saw" and claimed the terms are interchangeable because they are both saws and they both reciprocate, youd be called a moron.
You dont suddenly get a pass with screwgruns and miter saws because its the same horse shit.
At least with the hillbilies calling every reciprocating saw a "SALLSZALLS" its the correct tool.
3 months ago
Anonymous
>akshually
you find the stupidest things to be completely wrong about
As valid as calling everything based on expired Petersen patents a "visegrip" since the classic Milwaukee design was the canonical recip saw and remains outstanding.
Calling a drill a screw gun is moronic. What part of the US does this? Must be niche because I'd have heard of it otherwise.
The correct use of "screw gun" applies to the variety based on a "drill motor" (the oldest and most precise vernacular name for a handheld motor with gear reduction and a Jacobs-style chuck) with a nose and bit holder specifically designed to drive screws.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Screw_gun is correct.
This dude knows whats up.
I dont understand why compact cold saws aren't more common. They're one of my favorite tools. They can cut wood too if you dont mind changing blades a bit more.
They're neat for sheet metal and other thin stock, and don't overheat coated roofing.
Otherwise I can't really find a use for one. If I worked with light steel or other panels and steel framing in the field I'd buy one immediately.
I dont understand why compact cold saws aren't more common. They're one of my favorite tools. They can cut wood too if you dont mind changing blades a bit more.
Works on my machines to drop machining chips into pails keeping them out of my shop vacs and industrially on a wide variety of dust, grit and chip removal systems.
Typical is the style used on abrasive blast cabinets which is much more rugged than that thing OP posted and simpler too, many being blow molded (not like ur mum molds her bull because that version of "blow" is suction).
Suction pump should be on the FAR side of where debris dumps to keep shit out of the fan and from accumulating in the blower housing. All vacuum systems are trivial to make wet-or-dry which is of course more versatile but doing that intelligently also requires the blower be outboard of the separator and debris container.
Free-hanging bags are vulnerable to snagging. Bags should live inside a hopper if used but there is little reason to bag sawdust when it's easily disposed of outdoors. Large custom filter sock or any sock would last longer between cleanings positioned outboard of an outboard blower.
BTW I cover internal shop vac and similar filters with panty hose and almost never need to clean or replace the filter itself. That trick is ancient, like using them over vehicle air filters innadesert as prefilter socks.
I dunno about poorly designed but I've seen an application of them that was very bad.
I used to work in a factory scraping a hard, baked, plaster-like compound of out of trays and sucking it into those, which the previous shift would leave mostly full. The collector was inside a ring of conveyors and the heavy, full bag had to hoisted over them, very carefully to avoid breaking it Several times, the band let the bag slip and I didn't realize it til I saw a pile of dust building up. And sometimes the stuff we made up was harder and I grenaded one or two of the blowers sucking what were essentially rocks into it.
Good ones are based and if you load the worm with your thumb have less slack than the same-sized open end wrench. My Snap-on is so well machined and plated it feels like machine tool slide.
Old Crescent before they sold out then machined them with potatoes are similar but not quite as good. It helps to know how to use tools. I've used good wrenches of that style for decades without rounding hardware.
These are great when you get good quality ones that don't have any slop in the rail. I use one all the time for hydraulic lines. The locking ones are pretty based too.
That's what we used them for in small flight line tool kits where having two of everything would be unacceptably bulky. The jaw surface area makes them kind to alloy nuts.
Another useful adjustable is the classic "Ford" wrench (so named for being supplied in T Model and later car and tractor tool kits). Diamond made the model popular with USAF tool kits from WWII to present day (though Diamond itself is out of business the Crescent C711 and C715 are replacement). Many USAF tool kits have tools much older than the box as tools from previous kits were reused. The 90-degree head makes them so popular for hydraulic work because they complement open end wrenches and fit just right in landing gear wells and engine bays.
If you do hydraulics I promise you want one and Egay has plenty.
If you do heavy equipment an epicyclic torque multiplier is gold. I don't do anything heavier than a medium duty truck and that rarely so I just have the small size but the control they offer is glorious. I can remove a Harley compensator nut with one hand using a long 1/2" ratchet instead of needing a cheater pipe and breaker bar, and busting loose truck pinion nuts is easy.
Williams TM-1000, X-4, Proto etc are the style. Unlike impacts you can precisely torque with one. If you encounter a milsurp X-4 with a slipper clutch the clutch is easy to remove and was there to reduce grunts overtorquing truck lugs.
It doesnt seem to matter what angle I put my angle grinders rest at, it does a really poor job of cutting up rebar. I was told even the cheapest angle grinders work fine
Craftsman had some real good contenders on the father’s day displays with their Mach tools. Looks like SB&D bought Craftsman and sold all of those dogshit Mach designs to Wera so they can sell them to redditors.
that brand/Type ratchet is BASED.
but it isn't something you'd use for a super dirty job.
my brother uses those for the 1st stage rocket Boosters they make
whats wrong with chop saws
i love them
Thats not a chop saw
What's the difference between a chop saw and a miter saw?
Where I'm at we always called an abrasive metal saw a chop saw. Miter saws are for wood and you can adjust the angle of the head on them quickly and easily to cut miters...
The terms are interchangeable, really, and it's not like all abrasive saws can't into bevel cuts either. The main difference between a wood miter saw and a metal/abrasive miter saw is the speed of the saw and the material of the housing. Abrasive saws are designed in a way that it won't melt itself down from the sparks.
You might have never seen an abrasive miter saw that could do compound bevels but they are very common in fabrication for e.g. cutting square tubes at angles to be welded.
>it's not like all abrasive saws can't into bevel cuts either
Like 99% of them dont.
The only abrasive saws I have seen that have an actual swivel head are huge ones with like a 2hp motor hanging off the back. And honestly most of those I've seen don't swivel either.
>You might have never seen an abrasive miter saw that could do compound bevels
Yeah I've never seen one that could do compound bevels. Miters yes, Compound bevels, no. You do know that "compound" means it will cut bevels in both directions at the same time right? Like the head will swivel around left and right while also tilting the entire head left or right from vertical as well. That is what makes a compound bevel miter saw what it is. Yeah there is probably some built that are out there, but they are not common.
>There are also Cold Cutting saws that look identical to your typical miter saw. They use metal specific carbide tipped blades with more blunt geometries and low RPM to cut metal. They too are mostly compound saws.
>They dont heat your metal, they dont throw sparks and in general shit on typical abrasive saws.
Cold cut saws are real slow, heavy built, expensive, and typically use flood coolant. Dry cut saws spin faster than cold cut saws, but slower than abrasive chop saws. They use carbide tipped blades and no flood coolant.
Where does the meat go in that last one?
>Where does the meat go in that last one?
In your mom.
Chop saws are the rough cutoff saws that have abrasive discs that get your metal red hot and throw sparks everywhere. They cut miters with their crappy clamps
Miter saws are wood cutting saws, using high RPMs and sharp carbide tipped blades. They cut miters and most cut bevels too (doing both at the same time makes it a "compound" saw)
There are also Cold Cutting saws that look identical to your typical miter saw. They use metal specific carbide tipped blades with more blunt geometries and low RPM to cut metal. They too are mostly compound saws.
They dont heat your metal, they dont throw sparks and in general shit on typical abrasive saws.
Some odd regions might call a miter saw a "chop saw", but most of the country generally agree which saw is which.
>Some odd regions might call a miter saw a "chop saw"
It's like half the country, just not in your neighborhood.
>calling a reciprocating saw a "sawzall"
>calling a cordless drill a "screwgun"
>calling prawns "shrimp"
>calling beef wellington ensemble with cheese a "cheeseburger"
>It's like half the country,
No, its just a small handful of morons who are calling a tool the distinctly wrong name.
Calling a cordless drill a screwgun is the same level of stupid.
The tool manufacturers arent confused. Most of the country isnt confused.
If you called a Jigsaw a "reciprocating saw" and claimed the terms are interchangeable because they are both saws and they both reciprocate, youd be called a moron.
You dont suddenly get a pass with screwgruns and miter saws because its the same horse shit.
At least with the hillbilies calling every reciprocating saw a "SALLSZALLS" its the correct tool.
>akshually
you find the stupidest things to be completely wrong about
not an argument
>calling a reciprocating saw a "sawzall"
As valid as calling everything based on expired Petersen patents a "visegrip" since the classic Milwaukee design was the canonical recip saw and remains outstanding.
Calling a drill a screw gun is moronic. What part of the US does this? Must be niche because I'd have heard of it otherwise.
The correct use of "screw gun" applies to the variety based on a "drill motor" (the oldest and most precise vernacular name for a handheld motor with gear reduction and a Jacobs-style chuck) with a nose and bit holder specifically designed to drive screws.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Screw_gun is correct.
They're neat for sheet metal and other thin stock, and don't overheat coated roofing.
Otherwise I can't really find a use for one. If I worked with light steel or other panels and steel framing in the field I'd buy one immediately.
This dude knows whats up.
I dont understand why compact cold saws aren't more common. They're one of my favorite tools. They can cut wood too if you dont mind changing blades a bit more.
I stand informed. However, those Ryobis are going to kill someone at some point.
That’s a miter saw moron
Hard agree on that one. Ryobi chop saws work but I have had more fear of kickback with that exact small saw than a regular sized chop saw.
Do you work at my job? These are both exceptional pieces of shit
Where is your design?
imagine being a pleeb without a cyclone and a bag house
cyclones are a meme
Works on my machines to drop machining chips into pails keeping them out of my shop vacs and industrially on a wide variety of dust, grit and chip removal systems.
Typical is the style used on abrasive blast cabinets which is much more rugged than that thing OP posted and simpler too, many being blow molded (not like ur mum molds her bull because that version of "blow" is suction).
Suction pump should be on the FAR side of where debris dumps to keep shit out of the fan and from accumulating in the blower housing. All vacuum systems are trivial to make wet-or-dry which is of course more versatile but doing that intelligently also requires the blower be outboard of the separator and debris container.
Free-hanging bags are vulnerable to snagging. Bags should live inside a hopper if used but there is little reason to bag sawdust when it's easily disposed of outdoors. Large custom filter sock or any sock would last longer between cleanings positioned outboard of an outboard blower.
BTW I cover internal shop vac and similar filters with panty hose and almost never need to clean or replace the filter itself. That trick is ancient, like using them over vehicle air filters innadesert as prefilter socks.
>like using them over vehicle air filters innadesert as prefilter socks
Or for aquarium filter inlets
i just send mine through a duct out the side of my garage. if i remember i'll go leaf blow it and spread it around. nmp when you live in the woods.
Practical and convenient.
>nmp when you live in the woods.
I mean, as long as it isn't treated lumber and you don't mind the mess, it's basically just free, low-grade fertilizer.
I dunno about poorly designed but I've seen an application of them that was very bad.
I used to work in a factory scraping a hard, baked, plaster-like compound of out of trays and sucking it into those, which the previous shift would leave mostly full. The collector was inside a ring of conveyors and the heavy, full bag had to hoisted over them, very carefully to avoid breaking it Several times, the band let the bag slip and I didn't realize it til I saw a pile of dust building up. And sometimes the stuff we made up was harder and I grenaded one or two of the blowers sucking what were essentially rocks into it.
Easy choice the fricking Black person Wrench
Most worthless tool ever made
Only complete Idiots own or use them
Here's your (You)
not an argument
Good ones are based and if you load the worm with your thumb have less slack than the same-sized open end wrench. My Snap-on is so well machined and plated it feels like machine tool slide.
Old Crescent before they sold out then machined them with potatoes are similar but not quite as good. It helps to know how to use tools. I've used good wrenches of that style for decades without rounding hardware.
Pocket lathe
These are great when you get good quality ones that don't have any slop in the rail. I use one all the time for hydraulic lines. The locking ones are pretty based too.
>I use one all the time for hydraulic lines.
That's what we used them for in small flight line tool kits where having two of everything would be unacceptably bulky. The jaw surface area makes them kind to alloy nuts.
Another useful adjustable is the classic "Ford" wrench (so named for being supplied in T Model and later car and tractor tool kits). Diamond made the model popular with USAF tool kits from WWII to present day (though Diamond itself is out of business the Crescent C711 and C715 are replacement). Many USAF tool kits have tools much older than the box as tools from previous kits were reused. The 90-degree head makes them so popular for hydraulic work because they complement open end wrenches and fit just right in landing gear wells and engine bays.
If you do hydraulics I promise you want one and Egay has plenty.
If you do heavy equipment an epicyclic torque multiplier is gold. I don't do anything heavier than a medium duty truck and that rarely so I just have the small size but the control they offer is glorious. I can remove a Harley compensator nut with one hand using a long 1/2" ratchet instead of needing a cheater pipe and breaker bar, and busting loose truck pinion nuts is easy.
Williams TM-1000, X-4, Proto etc are the style. Unlike impacts you can precisely torque with one. If you encounter a milsurp X-4 with a slipper clutch the clutch is easy to remove and was there to reduce grunts overtorquing truck lugs.
The circular saw.
Pic related is my circular saw and I have a hell of a time ripping 2x4s with it. Not sure why everyone says to use it for ripping.
>buy rotary tool
>put in my name brand dremel rotary tool cutting discs
>hard as frick to cut my PC case with
baffling!
It doesnt seem to matter what angle I put my angle grinders rest at, it does a really poor job of cutting up rebar. I was told even the cheapest angle grinders work fine
I have one of those. It sucks.
>you can't
i can
Aucun Rapport mais cap ou pas cap d'aller dans la zone 51 et de poser une bombe de pisse ?
Craftsman had some real good contenders on the father’s day displays with their Mach tools. Looks like SB&D bought Craftsman and sold all of those dogshit Mach designs to Wera so they can sell them to redditors.
Youve never seen a swivel head ratchet before?
I thought you were larping as a mechanic
Git gud
that brand/Type ratchet is BASED.
but it isn't something you'd use for a super dirty job.
my brother uses those for the 1st stage rocket Boosters they make
>redditor amateur rocket builder uses shitty Wera design to assemble brand new hardware and thinks it’s good
Try using the thing for real work.